Every river has a character, and every waterway symbolises vitality. Life in Africa revolves around its rivers, streams and lakes, defining the essence of the wildernesses they flow through. A safari can be more than game drives, so why not opt for one of the continent’s numerous safaris on and around her waters, and explore Africa through its lifeblood?
Below is a list of our favourite iconic waterways that make for epic safaris.
Okavango Delta, Botswana: Water safaris by mokoro and boat
The swampy wildlife oasis of the Okavango Delta is one of the most extraordinary safari destinations in Africa, and a ride in a mokoro is an essential part of any exploration. These traditional dugout canoes cut silently through the wetlands’ many channels, propelled by expert guides’ poles. Aside from the peaceful immersion in one’s surroundings, this is the perfect way to encounter wildlife – from elephants to frogs and everything in between. In the deeper channels and lagoons, motorboat excursions open up even more of the delta, offering a different perspective and access to areas the mokoros cannot reach.
Glide by mokoro on the waters of the Okavango DeltaDeeper delta waters can be explored by motorised boat
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Rafting on Batoka Gorge’s white waters
At Victoria Falls, the mighty Zambezi River plunges 100 metres off a basalt plateau before being forced through a narrow and twisting path of Batoka Gorge. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and are widely acknowledged as offering some of the best white water rafting in the world.
Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it). And after the rather steep climb out of the gorge on somewhat shaky legs, a sundowner imbibed looking out over the “smoke that thunders” is a must! This is one of the most epic water safaris you’ll ever experience.
Clouds of mist over the Smoke that ThundersWhite river rafting on Batoka Gorge, Victoria Falls
Jinja, Uganda: Kayak the Nile
The Nile River is the longest in the world, and its journey begins at the edge of Lake Victoria as it spills out of the lake into a series of plunging rapids. Not much compares to the thrill of riding the tumbling waves, pitting skill against the tremendous power of the torrent. And there are plenty of long flat stretches of calm water to steady the nerves, recover the muscles and marvel at the beauty of rural Uganda.
If this sounds too much (or perhaps when one’s shoulders and arms have had enough), opt for an ice-cold drink on a sedate sunset boat cruise.
The raging waters of the River NileAdrenaline junkies can Kayak the River Nile at Jinja
Mambili and Lokoué Rivers, Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville: River cruise through the Congo Basin
In the heart of the Congo Basin, the Mambili and Lokoué rivers weave through Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s lush rainforest, offering a water safari unlike any other. A river cruise here means gliding past forested banks alive with movement – from the flicker of colourful birds to the stealthy ripple of a slender-snouted crocodile. Keep watch for breaching tiger fish, shy sitatunga antelope, water monitors, and troops of agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse the elusive De Brazza’s monkey or a forest elephant pausing for a drink. These tranquil waterways not only connect remote lodges like Camp Imbalanga but also provide one of the best vantage points for spotting the park’s rich wildlife without disturbing it.
Boating the winding waters of the Congo BasinAG’s Simon Espley and Brendan Taylor enjoy a boat cruise on the Mambili RiverSpotting a slender-snouted crocodile basking on a branch
Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia: Cruise on a riverboat
The Chobe River is Africa’s elephant Eden, its lush floodplains and surroundings home to the world’s highest density of these magnificent pachyderms. This corner of the continent is renowned for its water safaris. Explore the various channels and side creeks or meander peacefully, watching elephants snorkel and wrestle in the water. From predator to prey, the abundance of life on display along the riverbanks tinges any voyage with more than a hint of excitement.
Spot Chobe’s abundant wildlife from a riverboatSunset over Chobe
Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania: Float or dive lazy waters
Only two parks in Tanzania offer chimpanzee trekking: Gombe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, and both are found on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The terrain of these parks is mountainous, and if the chimps are particularly capricious, a trek might entail several hours of strenuous hiking. As such, there is no doubt that the only way to celebrate a successful day is to leap with joy into the cool embrace of the clear waters of the world’s longest freshwater lake. Sandy beaches are perfect for lazing the days away or soaking up romantic sunsets. Or, to make the most of water safaris to Lake Tanganyika (which hosts over 350 fish species), explore the waters by diving, snorkelling or kayaking.
The peaceful waters of Lake Tanganyika, on the edge of Gombe and Mahale National ParkExplore the waters by kayaking, diving and snorkelling
Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Explore vast shorelines
The fertile shores of Lake Kariba and its fresh waters attract diverse birdlife and wildlife, including elephants, buffalo and various antelopes. Keep an eye out for lions and leopards too. Lake Kariba’s water safaris can be enjoyed in simple pleasure or luxurious style. Dozens of lodges perched on the water’s edge allow you to awaken to the copper glow of the sun rising over the endless lake. Spend the day admiring the scenery or watching elephants browse the shoreline of Lake Kariba. And at the end of the day, the calm waters are the ideal place to admire the starlit skies. There are plenty of opportunities to explore the shorelines from the water, whether on a catamaran cruise, motorboat or even a houseboat. For a wilderness retreat on the shores of Lake Kariba, visit Matusadona National Park, which is easily combined with safaris to Hwange National Park for a truly epic African safari.
Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba, Matusadona National ParkWhere the lake meets luxury – tranquillity on the shores of Lake Kariba, with endless viewsCruise Lake Kariba’s shorelines on a catamaran cruise or motorboat
Lake Malawi, Malawi: Barefoot safaris
Lake Malawi offers a plethora of fun for every intrepid safari goer, from the super active to the deeply relaxed. Across the shoreline of Lake Malawi, tiny beach villages and lodges offer many opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples. Boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. And for beach lovers, there is ample opportunity to lounge along Lake Malawi’s sandy shores and breathe in the crystalline waters, drink in hand.
Barefoot bliss alongside Lake MalawiSoft sandy beaches overlooking endless waters
Lake Ihema, Akagera NP, Rwanda: Birding and big game safaris from the water
Bordered by papyrus swamps and dotted with islands, Lake Ihema – Rwanda’s second-largest lake – is a sanctuary for aquatic birds and a prime spot for relaxed game viewing. Boat cruises here are unhurried affairs on this vast lake in Akagera National Park, which features the Big 5. Drift past pods of hippos, enormous Nile crocodiles, and buffaloes grazing at the shoreline. The air rings with the calls of fish eagles, kingfishers, and hamerkops, and the keen-eyed may spot jacanas tiptoeing across lily pads or even a rare shoebill in the reeds. Morning, afternoon, and sunset departures each offer their own magic – from soft dawn light catching a heron’s wings to fiery skies reflected in still waters. It’s the perfect complement to a northern Akagera game drive, rounding out your wildlife checklist with sightings only possible from the lake’s calm surface.
Boat cruises on Lake Ihema are unhurried affairsSpotting hippos from the boatElephants dip and sip in Lake Ihema
From the Tradouw Redfin in Barrydale’s Huis River to the Clanwilliam Sandfish in the Olifants catchment, South Africa’s endemic freshwater fish are sounding an alarm. Their precarious survival is a measure of the health of our rivers – systems under pressure from invasive species, altered flows, and degraded habitats. Protecting these fish means protecting the lifeblood of the landscapes and communities that depend on them. Christy Bragg delves into the plight of South Africa’s freshwater fish
A flash of silver. A glimpse of a sliver of silver tail, and then it’s gone, back into the depths of the tannin-rich waters. The sight disarmed me – this was a very rare freshwater fish species – the Barrydale redfin (Pseudobarbus sp. ‘burchelli Tradouw’), also known as Breede redfin or Tradouw redfin. I was watching them slip between the foamy bubbles caused by the outpouring of a pipe set into the weir in the river. What is so special about a pipe in the weir? This little pipe is a clever solution to an age-old dilemma in water resource management: how do we share the water?
This tiny little fish, with red tips on its fins, is an endemic species. It only occurs in South Africa, and then only in the Breede River system. What’s more, this particular lineage is limited to little tributaries, most notably in isolated pools of the Huis River above Barrydale within the Tradouw catchment.
And in this space, the tiny fish occupies less than 40km² of habitat, making it highly vulnerable to environmental change. Its remaining waters are increasingly threatened by reduced flow from municipal abstraction, habitat degradation through bank alteration and vegetation loss, pollution, and the spread of invasive alien plants and fish. These pressures not only disrupt the natural seasonal flow patterns essential for the species’ breeding and feeding, but also degrade water quality and reduce refuges during dry periods. It is no wonder then that the Barrydale redfin is classified as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List.
Once, miners relied on the faintest signs of distress from canaries deep underground to warn of danger. Today, the Barrydale redfin plays a similar role in our freshwater systems – its struggle is a subtle but urgent signal of the troubles gathering in our rivers.
South Africas rivers are slowly filling up with pollution, from sewage to partially metabolised medications and hormones. Some of our rivers are drying up – becoming trickles of mud and alien weeds. Where rivers once carried the rhythms of native fish and invertebrates, invasive species have since unsettled and diminished their diversity. Our climates are getting hotter, and many rivers are drying more rapidly than the norm. But, the last scrappy shoals of indigenous fish are the signposts to our future. When our river ecosystems are damaged, the fish tell the tale.
What happens when the water stops flowing in our rivers? Water in rivers is like blood in veins – without blood, we shrivel up like a dried raisin, and we lose access to oxygen and nutrients. We need to keep a small amount of water flowing in the rivers to keep the ecosystem processes going – essential processes like flood retention, infiltration, dilution of hazardous substances, and resilience to droughts. Scientists refer to this minimum amount of water needed for habitat and human health as the ‘ecological reserve’. We also need this small amount of water in the rivers for the survival of rare and unique freshwater fish species.
The fish are flagships for the health of our rivers. The bad news is that indigenous freshwater fish are hanging onto existence by the tips of their fins.
Turning the tide for the Barrydale redfin
The journey to help the Barrydale redfin began with people who love fish – including from CapeNature, Endangered Wildlife Trust and the Freshwater Research Centre. This group of fish enthusiasts had been counting the redfin for years and had been worrying about how rapidly the population was declining.
Along with local communities and other conservation agencies interested in conserving these fish, the enthusiasts secured funding from donors, and took action to save the redfins living in the rivers of Barrydale in the Western Cape, South Africa. Thanks to the willingness of local authorities, communities, and the efforts of civil society organisations, farmers, engineers, and town residents, the project is tackling the redfin’s conservation on several fronts, combining ecological restoration with community-led water stewardship.
One issue was that 100% of the low flows in the Huis River running through Barrydale were being abstracted. After everyone had sucked up their portions of the water, there was very little water left. At least 10% flow would need to be re-allocated to the downstream ecosystem in order to restore redfin habitat. And so, one of the most innovative solutions to saving the fish came in the form of a little pipe: with project support, the municipality retrofitted a release valve on the weir, diverting water back to the river. This adjustable pipe allows a small flow into the river, just enough to keep pools in the river for redfin habitat.
If we are willing to share water with biodiversity, we all win. Protecting the fish means we need to manage our resources with wisdom and awareness, which leads to all-around sustainability.
Freshwater fish conservation: A model for healthy rivers
The Barrydale redfin project then spawned other projects that encourage treating our rivers with respect and gratitude. If you visit the Huis River today, you will notice the banks have been freshly planted with riverine plants, and you will hear the chainsaws cutting down alien invasive plants to keep the river healthy and flowing. There are monitoring gauges in the river to keep track of flow, and there are brave ideas about creating synergy between fish, water and people.
Translocating small Clanwilliam sandfish to allow them a chance to grow
Similarly, if you visit the beautiful Biedouw River Valley in the Olifants-Doring River catchment, you might come across a group of people holding big nets in the river. They are carefully catching baby Clanwilliam sandfish (Labeo seeberi). The sandfish is a beautiful fish with little whiskers and translucent golden scales. It used to be so abundant that locals reported whole rivers churned up and teeming with these fish during their spawning migrations. Not anymore.
The Clanwilliam sandfish faces unimaginable threats. Dams block their migratory paths and alien invasive fish prey on the sandfish fry (the baby sandfish). Dirty water released into the river pollutes its habitat, whilst at the same time, thirsty crops gulp down its water.
To aid in the conservation of the sandfish, fish conservationists, through the Saving Sandfish project, are catching small fish to relocate them to a safer area, where they can grow larger without being preyed upon by the largemouth bass that inhabit the rivers. When the fish have grown big enough, the conservationists release them back into their rivers to run the gauntlet of the alien invasive fish. It’s a small solution, but small ripples can spread far and wide. So far, the conservationists have released over 2,800 sandfish back into the rivers. These fish are being tracked and monitored, and the research shows that they are surviving and returning to the Biedouw to keep the circle of life going.
Clanwilliam sandfish
Expanding conservation beyond the redfin
In several countries, rivers have been recognised in law as having rights to their waters. Environmental advocates have successfully argued for legal personhood, enabling these rivers to be treated as living entities with the right to thrive and to have a voice in decisions that affect them. Yet, the health of these ecosystems is in serious decline. The IUCN estimates that a quarter of all freshwater species are now threatened with extinction, while a 2024 WWF report found that migratory fish populations have declined by an average of 81% since 1970.
Freshwater is an essential resource – vital to human societies and the species that depend on it. The warning signs from our rivers and wetlands are clear; safeguarding aquatic biodiversity is not optional but imperative.
Like canaries in a coal mine, the struggles of aquatic species signal deeper trouble in our freshwater systems – trouble that will touch us all if left unchecked.
Fight for the fynbos fish: Learn about the redfin minnow, the most widespread group of freshwater fishes in the Cape Floristic Region, and find out why these fish face a serious risk of extinction.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
It’s been a harrowing week for my team.
Our reward for publishing facts about the trophy hunting of Blondie the Hwange lion has been a spate of malicious attacks, gaslighting and threats. These ugly missiles came from both extreme ends of the hate spectrum – pro- and anti-hunting – and often from private or fake social media accounts. All because we broke the news of Blondie’s death. We have been publishing factual articles since 1991, so we are used to the chaos when science clashes with beliefs. And yet this time, the volume and ugliness were staggering, even if from a tiny minority. On the bright side (there is always a bright side), we have exorcised our followers of these lowlifes. Believe what you want, but be nice. When in doubt, read our Rules of Engagement.
Our breaking news article was picked up by multiple international news media platforms, talking heads and tabloids, resulting in a snowball effect and amplified awareness. Unfortunately, some of these platforms resorted to factually bereft headlines and claims to gain attention. It is what it is.
Two things stood out to me during this process:
Anti-hunters accused us of giving tracking data from Blondie’s collar to hunters. Blondie was wearing a tracking collar sponsored by us. Blondie used to roam outside of the national park, and so was tracked by WildCRU (the Oxford University research team) to prevent human-wildlife conflict. To be clear, we do not have access to live data (and do not want it). We have received limited belated updates on the lions wearing AG-sponsored collars. And when probed for more detail on the trophy hunting of Blondie before we went live with the news, WildCRU met our requests with a deafening silence.
Pro-hunters accused us of claiming that the hunt was illegal, and compiled gaslighting opinion editorials based on that lie. Our actual wording was “sources say the hunt took place legally“ and nowhere in the article did we suggest otherwise. But of course, facts never get in the way of a diversionary tactic; a typical trophy hunting strategy when the spotlight shines on poor behaviour. To be clear, Blondie’s hunt was legal but deeply unethical; he was collared and was a young male with cubs. Zimbabwe’s adaptive, age-based hunting guideline recommends the hunting of lions over 6 years old, but a murky points and quota system means the hunting of lions under age 6 still takes place.
Why do we do this? Because we care. And we like to believe that you do too. And because, if we do not establish the facts and keep you informed, who will? Many of our tourism and conservation industry colleagues avoid difficult discussions like this. Thanks to the minority who do take the risk of nailing their colours to the mast – sincerely appreciated.
Most importantly, I am in awe of my team. Their hard work, passion and courage stand out in a sea of conservation mediocrity like dog’s balls on a canary.
Speaking of science and considered opinions, the Op Ed below by respected biologist and lion researcher Paul Funston will ruffle a few feathers. Well done, Paul, on daring to go against the flow with some inconvenient truths! Our second story is about walking safaris – safari soulfood. We delve into 11 epic options for those who prefer a more immersive African holiday.
Thanks for taking up precious time to read this, and for supporting our cause by choosing Africa Geographic as your safari company.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
LION TROPHY HUNTING
Dr Paul Funston unpacks the scientific and ethical failures of lion trophy hunting policies – and the deadly cost to iconic pride males
WALKING SAFARIS
Walking in the bushveld with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about the detail of nature. Here are 11 top walking safaris
Travel Desk
TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS
Habituated lowland gorilla trekking in Odzala-Kokoua – 8 days – from US$13,980pps
Trek for an up-close encounter of habituated western lowland gorillas on this eight-day safari. Find the hidden wildlife on guided baï and rainforest walks. Take a river cruise or go on a kayak safari down Lekolo River and experience the wealth of life living in and on the shores of these waterways. This safari will leave you spellbound and with unforgettable memories to take home.
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days – from US$7,605pps
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 1 space left!
Your AG safari just helped save Tsavo’s tuskers, South Africa’s pangolins and Africa’s birds of prey.
Thanks to your safari booking with Africa Geographic, you have made a real difference. We’ve just donated a portion of our safari earnings to some incredible conservation projects: Tsavo Trust’s big tusker project, Provet and the Limpopo Pangolin Collective, and the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme.
When you travel with AG, you do more than explore Africa’s wild places – you help protect them. A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like these. Because of your decision, these key species remain protected.
Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
Blondie, a well-known, young, collared pride male in Zimbabwe’s Hwange region, was recently trophy hunted after reportedly being lured with bait. His death has sparked global outrage and raised urgent questions about lion conservation. Watch the video to learn more about this unfolding story. (03:50) Click here to watch
Africa, the untamed continent, beckons adventurers with its extraordinary wilderness spaces and unique wildlife. There are many ways to explore its wonders, but none is more immersive and intimate than what is offered on walking safaris. On foot, the sudden amplification of sound, smell, touch and adrenaline creates a profound sense of connection to nature that has been all but lost in our frenetic, modern lives.
Options for walking adventures when on an African safari vary. There’s something on offer for all adventurers: from a morning or afternoon stroll while staying at a lodge, to a fully fledged walking safari taking place over a few days, where you have the option to sleep out in basic tents. We’ve included various options below, covering the best of all there is on offer.
So, lace up a sturdy pair of walking shoes and prepare to ignite your wanderlust with our 11 favourite African walking safari destinations….
Often referred to as the home of walking safaris, Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is a playground for visitors seeking an authentic and unspoilt wilderness. Here, generations of expert guides have followed in the bootprints of Norman Carr to conserve the tradition of exceptional on-foot experiences. Stride over sandy riverbeds, navigate oxbow lakes and discover riverine forests, all the while observing the rich diversity of life (from dung beetles to elephants!) in Luangwa. Check out safaris in South Luangwa here.
Walking safaris in South Luangwa offer an authentic wilderness experienceThe incredible thrill of spotting wild dogs on foot in South Luangwa
Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe
Mana Pools National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most breathtaking protected areas, known for its picturesque Zambezi River floodplains, ethereal Ana tree groves and abundant wildlife. From African wild dogs (painted wolves) and towering elephant bulls to massive herds of thirst-driven buffalo and the lions that stalk them, Mana is a land designed to be explored up close and personal. It is also one of the few national parks where travellers can walk without a guide. Zimbabwe is also home to some of the best (and, in some cases, eccentric) walking guides in Africa, and securing their services is guaranteed to bring out the best in your African safari. Check out our safaris in Mana Pools here.
Adventurous travellers will find in-your-face wildlife drama on a Mana Pools walking safari
Alternatively, if you are looking for a truly wild walking experience, where you’ll camp in a remote spot with limited facilities, and have daily encounters with wild animals, then Chitake Springs offers just the ticket. Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools, away from the Zambezi River. The campsite, used for walking safaris, is based at the only available water source in this part of the park – a magnet for wildlife. Find out more about safaris to Chitake Springs here.
Enjoying an early morning coffee before the day’s adventures at Chitake SpringsHeading out for the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Trekking for mountain gorillas is a walking safari of a very different kind – one that many have described as a profound and spiritual experience. The fern-fringed, muddy paths of the fairy-tale Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are verdant and bursting with secret sounds. While finding the gorilla families may take several hours of hiking, the reward at the end is the chance to go eye-to-eye with our endangered and sentient relatives. Observe their intricate social interactions, marvel at their human expressions, and be moved by the simple presence of these extraordinary creatures. Browse our safaris to Bwindi here.
Traverse Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas
Akagera National Park, Rwanda
Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s only Big 5 reserve and has fast become one of Africa’s most exciting safari destinations. A standout experience here is the opportunity to traverse a northern area of the park on foot with expert rangers while tracking white rhinos: a rare and thrilling chance to connect with these endangered giants up close. Check out our safaris to Akagera here.
Spot Akagera’s white rhinos on foot
Okavango Delta, Botswana
The swampy oasis of the Okavango Delta in Botswana is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in Africa, which, by extension, makes it one of the best places to traverse on foot. Marvel at the Delta’s labyrinthine channels and vast floodplains as you tread softly through the wilderness in the company of the highly skilled guides who know the secrets of this waterlogged paradise. Your walking safari will likely also involve time in a mokoro – gliding silently along the water channels as your expert poler reveals this water wonderland to you. We have several safaris to the Okavango Delta – see more here.
Tread lightly through the Delta to experience incredible wildlife on foot
Tsavo East and West National Parks, Kenya
The rugged beauty of the vast Tsavo landscape is filled with the ancient magic of true wilderness, and walking here is akin to escaping to a bygone era. This is a land of legends, where many of Africa’s largest remaining tuskers roam, their thick skins shaded rust by the region’s famous red soils. From open savannahs and massive river systems to lava fields and woodlands, experienced guides will lead you in the search for giant elephants, maneless lions, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx and even critically endangered hirola antelope. See our safaris to Tsavo National Park here.
Follow in the footsteps of legendary tuskers in Tsavo
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
The Serengeti is synonymous with Africa’s Great Wildebeest Migration – the Greatest Show on Earth. Still, few realise its vast plains can be explored on foot, granting unique privacy even in the busiest tourist months. Imagine embarking on a journey in the company of Maasai guides eager to share their intimate knowledge of their wilderness heritage. Witness the awe-inspiring landscapes, spot lions lazing under acacia trees, and feel the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras on one of Africa’s most immersive walking safaris. Peruse our safaris to the Serengeti here.
Just under 100km away, the diverse and wildlife-rich Ngorongoro Conservation Area also provides explorers an opportunity to walk in the largest unbroken caldera in the world, explore extinct volcanoes, and meet Maasai herders along the way
Walk across the vast Serengeti plains to get up close to the migration action
Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park is perhaps one of the country’s best-kept African safari secrets but for an ardent following of experienced travellers drawn to the park’s remote and rugged appeal. The iconic Chilojo Cliffs are perhaps Gonarezhou’s most famous feature. However, the ancient baobabs, thriving elephant herds and jaw-dropping vistas all contribute to securing the park as an exceptional walking safari destination.
Exploring Gonarezhou’s land of red cliffs and elephants on foot is an immersive experience
Laikipia County, Kenya
The mantra of the private conservancy experience in Kenya is one of exclusivity and freedom, and nowhere is this better epitomised than the mosaic landscapes of Laikipia County. Here, the low-density, high-quality approach allows travellers to customise their experience in a truly unique manner. Going on at least one walk is a given. Still, the full experience can even include accompanying ecological teams into the field to aid in monitoring endangered species, tracking lions, or even walking with baboon troops. With each step, you become a part of this remarkable landscape, forging a meaningful connection with the wilderness and creating memories that will last a lifetime.
Enjoy true freedom and experience conservation up close in Laikipia
Greater Kruger, South Africa
The private reserves bordering South Africa’s world-famous Kruger National Park offer the chance to leave the confines of a vehicle behind and set out on foot, led by experienced trackers and armed rangers. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents. Check out our safaris to Greater Kruger here.
A walking safari in Kruger takes adventurers deep into the middle of Big-5 country
Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia
In the desolate beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, embark on a unique walking safari that combines rugged landscapes with fascinating wildlife encounters. Traverse the vast dunes and arid plains, where desert-adapted elephants roam, lions hunt in the shifting sands, and seals frolic along the coastline. This untamed wilderness showcases the astonishing resilience of life in the most extreme of environments. Check out spots to stay in and around the Skeleton Coast here.
Explore the land of endless dunes, desert lions and arid plains on foot along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast
And on that footnote
From the sweeping plains and savannahs to the remote reaches of the coastlines and dense forests, Africa’s walking safari destinations offer an intimate connection with nature that few other experiences can match. Whether you seek the thrill of encountering iconic wildlife, the tranquillity of walking through pristine landscapes, or the chance to recentre your soul, it’s time to open your senses to the wild beauty of Africa.
A rugged sleep out while on a primitive walking safari
Across Africa’s protected areas, lion trophy hunting remains a highly contentious issue – especially when young, iconic pride leaders are killed under the guise of sustainability. Policies like the widely adopted “Six-Year Rule” are meant to regulate this practice, but critics argue that they’re outdated, misapplied, and biologically flawed. In this searing opinion piece, leading lion conservationist Dr Paul Funston draws from decades of fieldwork and research to unpack how current regulations are failing lion populations – and why meaningful reform is urgently needed.
The issue of hunting underage and iconic lions around Africa’s protected areas is a longstanding problem. Personally, I am sick of it. The injustice, the spin, the intransigence, the occasionally poor conduct by the hunting fraternity, and even poorer governance by statutory authorities.
Seeking solutions to the age issue in their Letters to Nature paper in 2004, Karyl Whitman, Craig Packer and others, focusing on the Serengeti lion population, suggested that lion populations could remain stable if only male lions of six years or older were trophy hunted.
This led to the suggestion of a six-year age threshold or “Six-Year Rule” as an acceptable standard for lion trophy hunting. It was widely supported by conservation scientists as sustainable. I was not convinced. The model did not consider whether the hunted males had cubs, their notoriety, or the current effects on lion populations by other causes of lion mortality. Bottom line: it was just a mathematical model with significant caveats.
Chief amongst these is that the Serengeti is not the typical African savannah, with the model not taking account of biological differences across the lion range. Nor did it account for other sources of human-induced lion mortality, such as poaching, persecution, and the effects of habitat encroachment. All of which are significant causes of lion mortality and population decline in virtually every lion population in Africa.
African governments that conserve and hunt lions were thrilled; the “Six-Year Rule” allowed minor amendments to their lion trophy hunting. Amendments that quelled the queries being raised by CITES, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) and other international bodies governing trophy importation.
Mopane, a pride male who was killed in a trophy hunt, striding over his territory in the East of Hwange
The era of the “Six Year Rule” legitimising hunting very young male lions had well and truly arrived. Well-meaning scientists had given African governments an easy way out of their problems.
It took twelve years for new research to emerge suggesting that the “Six-Year Rule” was inadequate. This research was done in a more typical savannah woodland system in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. Here, as with most other areas, lions were trophy hunted, poached, persecuted and exposed to habitat encroachment and were in decline.
However, these recommendations still did not account for familial ties of the lions, nor their notoriety. These were recommendations not at the individual level, but rather at the population level. Again, it was purely mathematical, predicting the impact of removing male lions of a certain age from a lion population.
It was, however, far more sensitive to lion populations and offered a much better alternative. Thus far, however, it has been ignored by all range states hunting lions, most lion conservationists, as well as regulating bodies such as CITES, USFWS, etc.
The model assumes all males above a certain age would be removed and examines the effects on the lion population. Although this seems unrealistic, in most African hunting blocks, it is likely that all male lions above a certain age could potentially be hunted each year. Such is the demand to hunt wild African lions, and so high are the typical quotas.
Entering the fray in Zimbabwe
When I started working on trophy hunting issues in Zimbabwe in 2012, it was common practice for hunters to shoot lions as young as two to four years old. Lions of five, six or older were by far the minority in the annual harvest. I have examined the photos of many hundreds of trophy-hunted lions since then, to assess their age. It’s a task I don’t like! Notwithstanding my feelings, since Zimbabwe implemented an age-based hunting system in 2013, the hunters have steadily increased the age at which lions are harvested, but not by enough.
There’s currently a pause – an intransigence – to adapt the existing “Six Year Rule” to integrate the more recent scientific findings from Zambia, the “Greater-Than-Seven-Year Rule”. A situation which is reflected in all range states that hunt lions. They were quick to improve in the mid-2000s, but have not kept up with new evidence. This is because CITES, USFWS and other importing nations are content with the “Six Year Rule”, and the African range states vehemently push this, making inaccurate claims that they are using the “best available science”.
The governing bodies are permitting the hunting of lions who have seldom been successful fathers. It’s completely unacceptable. African range states and international governing bodies have failed to look after lion populations, ignoring new scientific findings.
Lions like Blondie – a father of ten young cubs – are killed as a result. It’s legal and supported by the authorities.
Blondie the lion was trophy hunted at the age of 5 years and 3 months
Each country has slightly different regulations, but all the major lion hunting countries – Tanzania, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and Zambia – apply some version of the outdated “Six Year Rule”. The best would seem to be Niassa National Reserve in Northern Mozambique, where lions must be over six years old to be considered for a reasonable quota, effectively making the minimum age of seven years old. In Tanzania, the rule is six years old, and the same applies to Zambia.
However, in Zimbabwe, the legal limit is five, which is not old enough! How can the legal age for hunting a lion in Zimbabwe be five? At times, this would mean male lions being hunted that have never even sired cubs, let alone raised them to dispersal age.
Zimbabwe has a bizarre version of the “Six-Year Rule”. In Zimbabwe, if a hunting outfitter, with a quota of two male lions, hunts two lions, six-year-old or older males, he is rewarded with an additional lion on quota the following year. However, if a five-year-old lion is hunted, the quota remains unchanged. Unchanged for hunting a male lion barely old enough to breed!
The quota is only suspended if a lion under four years old is hunted.
This is why shooting Blondie was legal. It’s got nothing to do with whether or not he was baited, collared, etc. Five years old = fair game.
It happens all the time. In 2017, hunters lured a male lion, Sinangeni, across the infamous railway line that separates Hwange National Park from hunting blocks and shot him at only three and a half years old. Sinangeni had formed a coalition with the son of Cecil, Xanda, a magnificent lion just going on six years old.
Cecil, the regal lion of Hwange, who ruled over the Ngweshla area of Hwange, was trophy hunted in 2015 – causing an international outcry
Xanda and Sinangeni were fathers to cubs in two prides of lions. Undeterred by killing the underage Sinangeni, the hunters soon killed Xanda, barely two years after his famous father had been killed. The cubs of their pride never stood a chance. They vanished, along with the hopes for Cecil’s lineage that flowed through Xanda.
The consequence? The hunting outfitter’s quota was reduced from two to one.
Basically, in Zimbabwe, hunters can kill whichever lion they like with no or minimal sanction. In my experience in the country, many hunting outfitters are willing to operate within the rules set by the government. But there are some rogue operators who consistently hunt underage lions who secure their permits and permissions through political connections. These operators cast a bad light on those professional hunters who stick to the rules set by the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA).
I was present in Harare in a key workshop in 2013 with ZPWMA when a fellow scientist, overly sensitive to their fellow Zimbabwean trophy hunter friends, pushed this rule to the point of implementation. It was implemented to “accommodate” Zimbabwean trophy hunting operators not willing to change practice significantly, and to protect revenue streams for the government.
It was a poor decision, and it’s still in place more than a decade later. No matter my pleas as a leading lion scientist to have it changed. No matter how many Xandas and Blondies are killed. The safari operators and the government largely seem to be indifferent. The broader society protests, the more entrenched they become. It’s all about making money as close to the skin as possible; it’s not about population persistence and viability.
An image posted of Blondie’s trophy hunted body on social media. The image has since been removed
The reason for the poor use of the “Six-Year Rule” in Zimbabwe is that, in the findings of Whitman and Packer’s 2004 study, it was suggested that hunting all six-year-olds and five-year-olds would only slightly reduce the lion population, not causing a significant decline.
Trophy hunters managed to get away with this interpretation when authorities introduced the new lion hunting rules in 2013. This was a misuse of the scientific input of myself and others, and has continued to fool CITES, USFWS, and others that lions are sustainably hunted in Zimbabwe.
Many researchers know this. But they don’t oppose it. Every year, GPS-collared lions are killed by hunters. Researchers state that GPS-collars are not there to protect lions from being hunted, but simply to include information on research databases. Fine, but then use the data to contribute to research.
Just how long does research need to continue, when there are already existing findings that can be used to contradict Zimbabwe’s reasoning for the “Six Year Rule”? Being a conservation scientist today requires more than just publishing papers in a country miles away from the reality on the ground. Hwange is not just a research laboratory for endless research and camera trap surveys; it is a conservation landscape needing input and guidance.
Blondie photographed in April
Seven years old – a bare minimum for lion trophy hunting
The difficulty in accurately determining a lion’s age in the field complicates the issue further. The recommendation is that any hunted lion should be at least seven years old or older (Creel et al. 2016). Thus, in my book, there should be an “Eight-Year Rule”.
This is supported by Jennifer Miller, myself, and several other scientists who reported in Biological Conservation in 2016 that seven years, or ideally older, was the minimum age at which the juncture was estimated. We found that five- and six-year-old lions could not be reliably told apart.
Thus, both key scientific advances in 2016 have been ignored by Zimbabwe and the other range states that hunt lions. The flawed “Six-Year Rule” remains in place two decades later, unchallenged by WildCRU and Panthera (who both engage in lion conservation activities in Hwange, such as the mitigation of human-wildlife conflict between lions and communities), CITES, USFWS, and others. Zimbabwe has been given a free pass to hunt underage lions.
ZPWMA faces a significant challenge. They are mandated to generate income from wildlife, including through trophy hunting, to support protected area management. Trophy hunting is a substantial source of revenue outside of Zimbabwe’s national parks. ZPWMA have little to no choice but to allow hunting, to contribute to the management of parks and other wildlife estates.
Trophy hunting outfitters, driven by their need to earn a living, naturally benefit from and encourage this relationship. The Zimbabwean government sees no issue with this arrangement. They find it acceptable to have photographic tourism in some areas and sustainable hunting in others. It’s been that way ever since parks were established under British rule from the 1920s to the 1940s. The modern, independent government has not reviewed or altered these policies in any significant way.
The practice of trophy hunting occurs throughout the hunting season every year, with about 30 wild lions hunted annually across Zimbabwe, most of which are six years old, and some are older than that. At a broader level, this is considered sustainable.
Notoriety – Trophy hunting of iconic lions
However, even the “Eight-Year Rule” presents a conundrum: if all lions above a certain age are hunted, and even if this is biologically sustainable, does it then mean every lion above that age is fair game?
Controversy inevitably arises when well-known lions, like Blondie, Cecil, Humba, Netsai, etc. are hunted. These lions, often seen as iconic and beloved, spark public outcry, mainly when they are hunted near areas that are also used for photographic tourism. This creates a significant problem as these lions are not just animals; they are seen as essential members of their ecosystems and our broader societal community.
Thus, the issue extends beyond just age. Lions that have gained iconic status, regardless of their age or whether they have cubs or not, are treasured by society. The broader public will never view their hunting as a legitimate or “sustainable” practice. No matter whether supported scientifically or not.
This sentiment was evident in the reactions to the deaths of lions like Cecil, Humba, and Netsai, who, despite having fulfilled their biological roles, siring countless cubs, were mourned when hunted.
Humba and Netsai were brothers of the Nora pride. Both were trophy hunted
Blondie, by comparison, has not fathered any cubs to dispersal age – his cubs are still young.
The Zimbabwean government faces a complex situation. They need to balance the interests of safari hunters and photographic tourism operators, who often clash, especially near the borders of national parks such as Hwange. This conflict damages Zimbabwe’s image and reputation for wildlife conservation and must be addressed.
A potential solution could involve a new system where, once a lion is deemed to be iconic, it becomes untouchable, protected from hunting regardless of its age. In this system, unknown male lions above seven years of age are hunted without sanction on quota. This approach could alleviate much of the controversy surrounding lion hunting in Zimbabwe.
In conclusion, the Zimbabwean government must revise its policies based on scientific evidence, adjust the age threshold for hunting, and find a way to protect iconic lions. These steps are essential to resolving the ongoing conflicts and improving the management of the country’s wildlife resources.
The question though remains, can “we” – perhaps those of you who read this article – live with a system in countries like Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique, and potentially Botswana, where lions in hunting blocks of seven years of age or older are hunted sustainably interspersed with years of no hunting, and where a select few agreed-upon lions are classified as iconic – therefore are not trophy hunted, ever?
This is a higher-level question – is lion trophy hunting legitimate at all? If the answer to this is “no”, then a lot of thinking and many challenges await. It’s time we decided – is it the famous lions we care so much about, or all lions? What are the real costs and benefits?
Resource list
Creel, S, Simpamba, T, et al. 2016. “Assessing the sustainability of African lion trophy hunting, with recommendations for policy”. Ecological Applications 26;10(1377): 2347-2357. https://doi.org/10.1002/eap.1377
Dr Paul Funston is a leading African conservationist with over 30 years of experience dedicated to the protection of lions. He holds a PhD in Zoology from the University of Pretoria, where he studied lion population dynamics and behaviour in Kruger National Park. Paul is a recognised authority on predator-prey relationships, habitat connectivity, and sustainable lion conservation.
He has led major conservation initiatives across Africa – including in KAZA, East, West, and Southern Africa – focusing on protected area expansion, community-based coexistence programmes, and predator-prey recovery policy. His work includes developing lion-proof livestock enclosures, training postgraduates, and mentoring young conservationists in lion monitoring.
As Director of African Lion Conservation (PTY) LTD, Paul consults with governments, NGOs, and reserves to shape predator management strategies and support habitat restoration. A wildlife photographer and specialist safari guide, he uses his fieldwork to inspire global audiences and drive impact. His life’s work ensures Africa’s lions continue to thrive in the wild.
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Bonobos challenge power norms + secret safari season + epic Lake Malawi safari
Did you know that the actual prime safari season is not the crowded months of July and August? That busy period is largely a function of the extended northern hemisphere summer break. Sure, wildlife activity in those months is good, often excellent, but the subsequent months hold richer rewards usually enjoyed by fewer travellers with good safari advice.
For example, in Southern Africa, the months of September to mid-November offer sightings that are often off-the-charts. The dry season is peaking and the first rains have not yet arrived. Access to water and food is limited and sightings are predictable. These are warm months, especially October and November which can be very hot, which keeps the less intrepid away, but for those seeking safari nirvana, these are superb months. And prices have usually come off the busy season highs. Even the popular Mara River crossings extend into mid October in most years …
Africa is a huge, complex continent, with regional and seasonal variances added to the longer cycles of boom and bust that nature uses to drive evolutionary change. No matter which time of year you travel, there is always something going on that will blow your mind and remind you that we are mere passengers on Good Ship Earth. Ask us, we live here.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
It’s a joy to share good news that celebrates Africa’s wild places. Maputo National Park has just been named Mozambique’s first natural World Heritage Site: a recognition of its glow-up from depleted wilderness to thriving sanctuary. Here you’ll find nesting turtles, roaming elephants, undisturbed coral reefs and extraordinary mangrove forests – making this a conservation win worth celebrating. We’ll soon share a full guide to exploring this extraordinary park where wildlife thrives, communities benefit, and tourism makes a real impact.
In the meantime, don’t miss our guide to another unique Mozambican protected area, Limpopo National Park, below. Plus, we examine how female bonobos are flipping the script on power politics in our Decoding Science story.
Enjoy exploring Africa with us!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 06–12 September 2026 – only 3 spots left!
Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the raw wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and ultimate relaxation.
AG safari guest, Anni from South Africa, went on a solo safari to Botswana. Here is what she had to say about her experience:
Magical Mashatu. “Mashatu Tented Camp was exactly what mysoul needed. Remote, small, not too many people. Only canvas between me and nature, yet comfortable. Every night I heard hyenas, jackals and at times lions calling. I knew I was truly in the wild. I saw leopards, lions, cheetahs, loads of elephants, and so much more. I could not have asked for more. The guides had amazing bush skills, and the staff was very accommodating. Other guests in the camp were great company for a solo traveller. My trip was unforgettable, and a huge thank you goes to Christian Boix and the Africa Geographic team for a very well-organised trip.”
WATCH:
From elephant hunter to devoted guardian: Ndondondo Bienvenu now protects Chinko’s last elephants. Witness his powerful transformation and the revival of this Central African Republic wilderness once on the brink. (06:31) Click here to watch
Tucked between the iconic Kruger National Park and the Limpopo River lies a vast, untamed wilderness few have explored. Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP), offers remote 4×4 adventures, immersive community encounters, and a slower, wilder safari experience. This is where nature returns on its terms – and travellers are invited to be part of that story.
Centrally located in the spectacular landscapes of Southern Africa’s Lowveld, Limpopo National Park offers a serene wilderness escape. Framed by the rugged Lebombo Mountains to the west and bordered by the world-renowned Kruger National Park, this remote Mozambican sanctuary is laced with scenic rivers – the Olifants in the south, the Shingwedzi through its heart, and the great Limpopo to the east, from which the park takes its name.
Established in 2001, Limpopo National Park – also known as Parque Nacional do Limpopo – was founded with a vision: to conserve biodiversity, uplift rural communities, and nurture eco-tourism in a historically marginalised region. The park spans a vast 1.1 million hectares (11,000km2) of unspoiled wilderness and natural beauty.
Three major rivers flow through the park: the Olifants in the south, the Shingwedzi through its heart, and the great Limpopo to the east
The park is co-managed by the Mozambican government and the Peace Parks Foundation. The park is part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA) and aims to restore wildlife migration routes and promote sustainable tourism. The Peace Parks Foundation has been involved in the park’s development since 2001, focusing on infrastructure, community support, and conservation efforts.
At the centre of this conservation vision is the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP) – a cross-border initiative that links key protected areas across Mozambique, South Africa, and Zimbabwe. Once fully realised, this area will connect iconic conservation regions, including Kruger, Limpopo, and Gonarezhou National Parks.
Visiting Limpopo National Park is more than just a nature getaway – it’s a chance to support and witness a visionary conservation journey.
Admiring the dry Shingwedzi riverbed
Landscape and ecology of Limpopo NP
Limpopo National Park’s landscape is a patchwork of ecological features. From the jagged Lebombo Mountains to lush riverine forests along the Limpopo, the park reveals a striking range of ecosystems.
Although the region is dry, receiving just 550mm of annual rainfall on average, its rivers, when flowing, are lifelines. During the summer rains, these watercourses draw wildlife in droves, offering vibrant, seasonal wildlife spectacles.
The park’s ten identified landscapes offer ecological diversity, with five dominating most of the terrain. Among these, the Nwambiya Sandveld is particularly important – a habitat scarcely found in neighbouring Kruger, home to rare and endangered flora.
A quintessential sight in the park – an iconic baobab tree
The mopane shrubland, dominated by the hardy mopane tree, may seem less promising for game viewing, but it supports a surprising diversity of mammals, birds, reptiles, and invertebrates.
The Lebombo Mountains and hilly granite plateaus along the park’s western edges bring rocky drama and scenic views, while the striking Shingwedzi Cliffs rise above the river, offering epic lookouts.
Grassy floodplains trace the rivers, while mixed woodlands cloak the rocky hills of the Lebombo. There is also a narrow belt of riverine woodland along major watercourses – a corridor teeming with life rarely seen in other parts of the park.
The Massingir Dam is a prominent feature, playing a significant role in the park’s ecosystem and local communities. It’s the second-largest reservoir in Mozambique, situated on the Olifants River.
These varied habitats bring scenic immersion and incredible wildlife encounters.
Massingir Dam
Limpopo NP’s tourist attractions
Limpopo National Park is far more than a stopover between South Africa and Mozambique – it’s a destination in its own right. Wildlife sightings here may be less prolific than in Kruger, but the park’s remote serenity is part of its allure. With sections of the border fence removed, wildlife is returning naturally.
For intrepid travellers, the 4×4 self-drive route is a must. Navigate the park’s rugged terrain between Pafuri, Mapai, Giriyondo, and Massingir, camping at designated sites along the way. Don’t miss the dramatic Shingwedzi Cliffs.
Cultural immersion is another highlight. Seven villages remain within the park’s boundaries, offering visitors insight into the traditions of local communities. As the park undergoes development, a voluntary resettlement program led by the Mozambican government aims to balance human presence with wildlife conservation. The project has seen four villages relocated to three development nodes offering safe housing, access to clean water, fertile agricultural land and access to services such as schooling and health care.
There are seven villages in the park
Currently, a few guided activities are on offer. Paddle the Rio Elefantes on a three-day canoe trail, camping along the banks. Some visitors opt for the five-day Elefantes Gorge Backpacking and Fishing Trail, for a blend of hiking, fishing, and solitude.
For a rugged thrill, tackle the five-night Shingwedzi 4×4 Eco-Trail – featuring remote camping, river crossings, and immersive bush experiences. The four-day Palarangala Wilderness Trail offers guided game walks and wilderness camping for a slower, more intimate bush experience.
Alternatively, there is the Lebombo Hiking Trail – a four-day journey through unspoiled landscapes with experienced guides, wildlife sightings, and unforgettable scenery.
Shingwedzi Cliffs amongst dense woodlands
Wildlife
The dry season, from July to October, offers the best wildlife viewing in Limpopo NP. As surface water becomes scarce, animals congregate at waterholes, making sightings more likely. It’s also the ideal time for travel: fewer mosquitoes, comfortable temperatures, and better road conditions.
The park shares much of its biodiversity with Kruger and is home to iconic species, including elephants, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, and sable antelopes. Although sightings can be sporadic, especially of predators, listen at night for the haunting calls of hyenas and lions. In less frequented parks like this one, wildlife takes time to acclimatise to tourism, making each sighting that much more special.
A rarer sighting of a cheetah in the parkAn elephant family traverses the landscape
Hippos and crocodiles inhabit the rivers, and conservation efforts continue to support endangered species, including African wild dogs and black rhinos.
Birders are in for a treat – over 500 bird species have been recorded. The rainy season, from November to April, is peak birding time, when migrants arrive and many birds display their breeding colours – even if it clashes with optimal game-viewing months.
Look out for African fish eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, bateleurs, kori bustards, lappet-faced vultures, and saddle-billed storks. Listen for the distinctive call of the southern ground hornbill – a sound as evocative as the African bush itself.
Notable sightings might include African broadbills, eastern nicators, pink-throated twinspots, grey-rumped swallows, lemon-breasted canaries, African pygmy geese, and the elusive Pel’s fishing-owl.
Timid Burchell’s zebras peer from the dense brush
Explore and stay in Limpopo NP
Planning ensures the best possible experience.
From May to August, dry winter days are cool and comfortable, with crisp nights around 10°C and pleasant days in the mid-20s – ideal for game drives. Summers (November to April) bring searing heat, humidity, and dramatic afternoon storms. Daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C, though the average sits in the low to mid-30s.
Accommodation options range from rustic campsites to comfortable chalets. Whether you’re seeking guided game drives or self-sufficient camping, there’s something for every type of explorer. Staying in nearby villages and venturing into the park for day trips is also an option.
The park’s accommodation includes four 4×4 campsites, an overlander site for camper vans, individual camping stands, and self-catering chalets.
The park’s 4×4 routes are not for the faint of heart
Access is straightforward via road or air from Mozambique, South Africa, or Zimbabwe. The nearest airports are in Maputo (Mozambique), Hoedspruit (South Africa) and Mbombela (South Africa), with car hire and guided tour options readily available.
Entry gates – including Giriyondo, Pafuri, Massingir, and Mapai – operate year-round, with seasonal hours. Always check road and border conditions in advance and travel in a sturdy, well-equipped vehicle.
Limpopo National Park is not about instant gratification or ticking species off a list. It’s a place for those who savour stillness and seek meaning in the quiet return of wildlife. As the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park vision edges closer to reality, every visit here becomes more than just a safari – it becomes part of a continental conservation legacy.
Take a deep dive into the reserve that makes up one of Africa’s most iconic safari destinations: Greater Kruger, South Africa
The iconic Kruger National Park is one of the world’s great conservation success stories and a popular safari destination to find the Big 5. Read more about Kruger National Park here
Female bonobos challenge dominance norms in the animal kingdom. Violette, a high-ranking bonobo female of the Ekalakala group, rests on her back while other group members groom each other
In the lush, dense rainforests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, one of our closest relatives is rewriting the rules of power. While most primate societies, and most mammals for that matter, are male-dominated, bonobos are different. Here, the females call the shots. They decide whom they want to mate with, and when males make advances, females ward them off instead of submitting. Females even control the shared food sources, with males patiently waiting their turn. This has puzzled naturalists for a long time, as it is unusual behaviour in the animal kingdom. What makes the bonobo society so different from other primates? How did the females get to the top?
For years, unusual behaviour has long puzzled scientists, and it took analysing 30 years’ worth of data to find some answers about bonobo dynamics. A study published in Communications Biology offers insights into what led females to the top. It is not brute strength, but something else entirely: the power of sisterhood.
Researchers analysed data from six wild bonobo communities in DRC’s Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. What they uncovered challenges the long-held belief that strength and aggression dictate dominance. Instead, bonobos show us a different path, where social bonds and cooperation determine who holds power. It is a revelation that challenges long-held assumptions about how status works in nature.
Gloria, a high-ranking bonobo female from the Kokoalongo group in the Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve, is groomed by a female coalition partner
“We present for the first time evidence that female coalitions [are] a way by which females gain power against males,” Martin Surbeck of Harvard University, who runs the Kokolopori Bonobo Research Project station. “Female coalitions exist in other species and can take the form of matrilines (line of descent from a female ancestor), like in female-philopatric baboons, but bonobos are special in that coalitions are mainly formed against males, and between unrelated females,” says Surbeck.
That’s remarkable, considering bonobo society is fluid. Females are the ones who migrate, often joining unfamiliar groups. Yet even as outsiders, they form the stable core of their communities. “Adult males, often their sons, accompany them,” noted Surbeck. “Bonobo groups split into smaller subgroups called parties that vary in size and composition, but they sometimes also travel together. Female coalitions can occur anytime during the day when needed, though they do not seem to gang together in anticipation.”
Barbara Fruth of the Max Planck Institute, who has led the LuiKotale Bonobo Project research station for 30 years, adds: “There were competing ideas for how, none of which had ever been tested in wild bonobos living in the jungles in which they evolved.”
The study tested three main ideas. One, the self-organisation hypothesis, suggests that social dynamics shift through repeated victories and losses, and momentum builds, allowing some females to climb the ranks despite their smaller size. In male-heavy groups, constant competition can weaken some males. Another, the reproductive control hypothesis, argues that if males cannot easily determine when females are fertile, especially when several females are fertile simultaneously, they lose control over mating. This levels the playing field and shifts influence to the females.
But it was the female coalition hypothesis that stood out. The findings were clear: females unite during conflicts, particularly against males. This significantly boosts their rank and reduces harassment. “I did not expect such a clear indication of the relevance of female coalitions,” explains Surbeck. “I thought that female sexuality would matter more, since we’ve seen that, on a dyadic level, females gain leverage against males when signalling ovulation.”
The Ekalakala bonobo group rests on a fallen tree in the Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. In the middle, the bonobo female Ivoire is the highest-ranking individual in the group
Across the six bonobo communities studied (drawn from three field sites with observation periods of two to six years), 85% of coalitions were female-led and directed at males. These were not random emotional outbursts, but they were strategic and coordinated, often sparked by disputes over food or male aggression. In those moments, the effect was apparent: dominance came not from strength, but from unity.
One of the particular findings that stood out was the clear link between coalition strength and female dominance rank. Females who formed effective coalitions more frequently consistently held higher status. These alliances helped them access better food sources, assert themselves in group decisions, and reduce male harassment.
Why is this significant? In many mammalian societies, males tend to dominate. Bonobos break this narrative. Their society demonstrates that cooperation, rather than conflict, can lead to power and influence.
Of course, gathering these insights was not an easy task. “One of the biggest challenges of the study,” Surbeck notes, “was that bonobos only occur in remote parts of the DRC. The logistics of running long-term study sites and collecting the necessary data were incredibly demanding.”
Yet those efforts have paid off. This study deepens our understanding of primate behaviour and challenges assumptions about dominance and gender in the animal kingdom. It shows that, under the right conditions, solidarity can be stronger than force.
Want to go on a bonobo-seeking safari? We’ll help you plan your tailor-made bonobo safari. Alternatively, browse our other safaris here.
Resources
Martin Surbeck, Leveda Cheng, Melodie Kreyer, Gerrit Gort, Roger Mundry, Gottfried Hohmann, Barbara Fruth. Drivers of female power in bonobos. Communications Biology, 2025; 8(1)
Further reading
Research reveals bonobos & chimps use sex to resolve tension. Great ape sex offers insight into the evolutionary roots of human intimacy. Read more here
Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action
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Collared pride lion hunted in Hwange + 10 African safari sundowner spots + epic Madagascar & Rwanda safaris
This week witnessed one of the most shocking examples yet of mass tourism gone mad.
This recent Instagram video by private guide Nick Kleer shows numerous safari vehicles crowding the Kogatende Crossing in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, preventing the wildebeest herds from crossing the Mara River during the Great Wildebeest Migration. It clearly demonstrates poorly trained, unethical guides and carefree tourists out of their vehicles. The lack of law enforcement is also evident and de rigueur. I have vented about this before, and I repeat that while our governments view wildlife tourism as a cash cow with minimal investment required, this will only get worse.
Our industry also has to step up. My promise to you is this: We will identify the responsible operators, and I will contact each CEO for a pointed discussion. We vet the partners for our tailored safaris very carefully, and if any are involved in this disgusting fiasco, the relationship will be terminated. If enough of my fellow travel company CEOs do this, we can turn the tide.
This massive pressure on Africa’s wildlife and ecosystems is evident in many other popular areas, such as Kruger National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park.
On a happier note, scroll down to the heart-warming video below of a dramatic wild dog relocation in Mozambique. I was hooked from the first second. Well done to video creator Paul Steyn, a former teamAG member, and to the conservation teams on the ground – sterling effort!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
It’s been a big month for South African Environmental Minister Dion George, who made two major conservation announcements that could signal a shift in South Africa. First up is the imminent publication of the Lion Prohibition Notice, which will ban new captive lion breeding facilities. It’s not an industry shutdown, but a move that many have been fighting for, which says that breeding lions for cub petting, trophy hunting, and the bone trade is no longer acceptable.
Hot on the heels of that news is the launch of the Rhino Renaissance Campaign in Kruger National Park, an ambitious 10-year plan to rebuild the white rhino population from 2,000 to 12,000. But getting to 12,000 rhinos will be a tall order. Big promises have been made. Will they shake things up on the ground, or are they lofty words destined to drift away on the policy breeze? We’ll be watching.
Trophy hunting season has arrived. And, as if on cue, we have discovered devastating news from Hwange: another collared lion has been trophy hunted. An Africa Geographic-sponsored collar, no less. There are serious ethical questions around this hunt, due to the presence of the research collar, and the young age of the lion, which had not reached the minimum age of 6 years required under Zim hunting guidelines. When will those who preach sustainable hunting confront the unethical practices within their own ranks and demand accountability instead of silence? Read more in our report on the hunt below.
And finally, to lift the mood and send you off with a smile, we’ve rounded up 10 of the most spectacular African safari sundowner spots in Africa. These golden-hour gems are all in places where wildlife is protected, biodiversity is celebrated, and the only thing getting taken away is your breath.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Discover wild Madagascar on this connoisseur safari that takes you deep into Madagascar’s remote corners, where rare wildlife and rich local culture await. Explore the Ifotaka Community Forest with the Antandroy tribe and search for Verreaux’s sifaka and white-footed sportive lemurs. Then head northwest to Namoroka’s surreal tsingy landscapes, home to 10 lemur species, flying foxes, tenrecs, fossa, and the elusive aye-aye.
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this African safari.
Amateur photography is my hobby, and each trip has been unique, well-planned, and fulfilled my purposes. Whether it was a tented camp in Zambia to see the bat migration, or a safari to Ethiopia. For our latest trip, I wanted to introduce my family of 11 (including 5 children) to the gorillas and chimpanzees of Uganda, the golden monkeys in Volcanoes NP in Rwanda, and the Great Migration in Serengeti NP. The details of the trip met our needs and desires. The smallest details were kept in mind, with travel arrangements precisely arranged. The drivers and guides were kind, knowledgeable, and fun to be with. Dining was always good.
AG safari expert Christian makes each journey a joy, and removes the anxieties of being in places that are really unknown to us. His judgment is always aligned with our needs, which are his first priority. And, on this past journey, the treks into the rainforests of Kibale and Bwindi were fantastic, and the golden monkeys in bamboo forests allowed for fantastic photography. Driving for miles and miles in the Serengeti among 1.5 million wildebeest and 400,000 zebras enabled me to begin to comprehend the magnitude of the Migration. We also saw a cheetah making a kill of a young Grant’s gazelle. Trust and enjoy.”
WATCH:
They were denning outside of safety: pups at risk, options few. In a bold conservation first, a wild dog pack is relocated 400km to a new life. This is the extraordinary story of a rescue no one thought possible. (20:53) Click here to watch
Blondie, a well-known, collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, has been trophy hunted after being lured into a hunting area with bait – leaving behind 10 cubs
During the week of 29 June 2025, Blondie was shot and killed by a trophy hunter just outside Hwange National Park, in the Gwaai / Sikumi Forest area. Despite wearing a conspicuous research collar and being younger than the recommended minimum hunting age of six years, this young lion was lured out of a photographic concession and killed in what many are calling a deeply unethical hunt. Yet, sources say the hunt took place legally, with all required permitting in place. The Professional Hunter is allegedly a member of the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association (ZPGA).
Blondie was collared by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (WildCRU), using a collar sponsored by Africa Geographic, in April this year. These GPS satellite collars are fitted to track free-roaming lions, prevent human-wildlife conflict, and support long-term conservation. Africa Geographic approached WildCRU and the University of Oxford for comment, but we are yet to receive an official response.
Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley had this to say: “As the sponsor of Blondie’s research collar, we are dismayed and angered by this development. That Blondie’s prominent collar did not prevent him from being offered to a hunting client, confirms the stark reality that no lion is safe from trophy hunting guns. He was a breeding male in his prime, making a mockery of the ethics that ZPGA regularly espouses and the repeated claims that trophy hunters only target old, non-breeding males.”
Blondie enjoying the morning sunshine
At the time of his death, according to one source, Blondie was 5 years and 3 months old and the dominant male of a pride that included three adult females and ten cubs – seven cubs around one year old and three approximately one month old. Zimbabwe hunting regulations recommend a minimum age of 6 years for lions trophy hunted, focusing on mature, non-pride males.
At just over five years old, Blondie was in the prime of his life. He was not a transient male on the periphery; he was a territory-holder, and a father. His sudden loss is expected to cause turmoil for the pride, with a high likelihood that incoming rival males will kill his youngest cubs. Such infanticide is common in lion dynamics, especially when coalitions shift. In the chaos that follows, the lionesses may flee the safety of the concession into communal lands, where snares and human conflict await.
Blondie with his Zingweni pride cubs
Blondie had often been seen on the private photographic concession since 2022 (where hunting is prohibited). Blondie took over the Zingweni pride and sired the current cubs. The pride’s movements frequently followed buffalo herds around Dete Vlei and into the Ganda Forest, outside Hwange National Park’s boundary.
According to reports from operators in the area, Blondie was last seen in his core range in June 2025. Observations suggest that he was baited out of the photographic concession over a period of several weeks and lured into the hunting area, where he was subsequently shot. The entire pride reportedly followed him during this period.
There are concerns that the Professional Hunter (PH) involved in the hunt was aware that Blondie was collared and that he had dependent cubs. It has been reported that, two weeks prior to the hunt, the hunter confirmed seeing Blondie with cubs and lionesses. When approached by AG for his side of the story, the PH declined to comment, other than to say that the hunt was “conducted legally, and ethically.”
An image posted of Blondie’s trophy-hunted body on social media. The image has since been removed
Blondie was the last known descendant of the Somadada pride, which had previously moved from Hwange into community areas. He had since established a stable pride in an area where resident lions have historically been scarce, due in part to conflict with local communities and previous hunting pressure.
Stakeholders have raised questions about the ethics of the hunt, specifically concerning the lion’s age, his status as an active pride male with dependent cubs, and the presence of a research collar.
AG reached out to the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association for comment – we are yet to receive a response.
The photographic operators in the region report that there are few, if any, established lion prides within the hunting concessions themselves. As a result, male lions are often drawn from adjacent photographic areas or park lands. Conservationists and local stakeholders continue to call for a review of lion hunting quotas along the boundaries of Hwange National Park, and for clearer ethical guidelines in such cases.
Blondie photographed in April 2025, shortly before being collared by the research team
Hwange National Park’s lion population has long been under pressure from trophy hunting operating from adjacent hunting concessions. These concessions frequently lure pride males out of protected photographic tourism zones – often using bait – to make them available to hunters. Known lions like Cecil, Xanda, Mopane, Sidhule, and others have been trophy hunted just outside park boundaries, despite having research collars or being active pride males, leading to major demographic disruption within local prides. Studies indicate that from 1999 to 2012, human activity caused approximately 88% of male lion deaths in Hwange, mostly through trophy hunts, resulting in skewed age-sex structures and affecting cub survival and pride stability. Although local lion numbers rebounded when hunting quotas were reduced, renewed hunting pressure has coincided with renewed population declines and ongoing conservation concern.
Can an African safari bring healing? Aaron Gekoski heads to Zimbabwe to explore Hwange and Matobo National Parks to find out. Read more here
Trophy hunters killed breeding lion Mopane – from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park – in a mirror of the Cecil tragedy. Here’s how we told it when it happened
Cocktails anyone? African safari tradition dictates that the end of the day be celebrated with a traditional sundowner – and snacks, of course! – enjoyed as the last golden rays of the setting sun impart their hue to the surrounding wilderness. Whether accompanied by designer G&Ts, local brews/wines, or some ice-cold water for the somewhat sunburned, there is no doubt that Africa boasts some of the planet’s best places to watch the sun go down.
Below is a list of some of our favourite sundowner spots, and why (in no particular order). Find your inspiration here, and start dreaming about that epic African safari.
Enjoying a sundowner as darkness falls over the Oloololo escarpment, the plains of the Maasai Mara below
The Oloololo Escarpment rises sharply 300 metres above the plains of Maasai Mara, affording visitors an extraordinary view of the serpentine path of the Mara River. If you are a fan of classic films, you might recognise this spectacular vantage as the one seen in the film Out of Africa. Recreate your own African romance and celebrate the spectacle that is the Great Migration. Take a moment to breathe, take a step back, and quite literally see the “big picture”.
Overlooking the escarpment
2. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia
The dying embers of the day over the Namib-Naukluft
The stark beauty of this salt and clay pan at the heart of the Namib-Naukluft National Park lies in the towering cerise dunes – some of the world’s largest. The rich, soft sand of Sossusvlei has drifted in over the centuries, and begins to glow as the sun sets while the barking geckos begin their evening chorus. It is time to settle back with a sundowner and watch the rise of arguably the best stargazing display in Africa.
Sundowners in the desert
3. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (or Zambia)
The sunset through the mists of Victoria Falls
The world-famous Victoria Falls mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As the mighty Zambezi tumbles down over 100 metres, it throws up a spray that can, on occasion, be seen for kilometres. At dusk, the descending peace allows you to consider what David Livingstone must have felt when he first laid eyes on the world’s largest waterfall.
4. Ngorongoro Crater, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
A magical evening on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater
At the centre of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the Ngorongoro Crater – the largest intact caldera in the world – surrounded by a rim that rises 2,300 metres above the grasslands below. Almost all Africa’s iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Where better to appreciate the ancient geological forces that shaped East Africa than from the rim of a massive, extinct volcano? It’s a bit like stepping back in time to a lost world (but with readily available drinks).
Incredible vistas overlooking the crater
5. Forest baïs, Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville
Treetop hides overlook baïs frequented by forest elephants
Odzala-Kokoua National Park, rich in biodiversity, lies in the northern reaches of Congo-Brazzaville and protects an enormous expanse of pristine Central African rainforest. Its many streams tumble their way through the trees before draining into the swampy forest baïs. Nestled deep in these Congo rainforests, Odzala-Kokoua offers treetop hides where you can sip as forest elephants, buffaloes and other wildlife descend to drink at these mineral‑rich baïs at day’s end. Okay, so this is less about the sunset and more about the atmosphere befitting a life-changing sundowner. Alternatively, you can stay at the camp’s elevated deck, enjoying sundowners around a fire as evening sets in and the night noises of the rainforest envelop you.
The deck of Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua is engulfed by forest. Here, you can enjoy a fireside sundowner along with forest sounds
6. Chobe River, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Paddling home in the Chobe evening
The Chobe River, the lifeblood of Chobe National Park, marks the border between Botswana and Namibia before its confluence with the Zambezi River to the east. A sundowner is, in theory, meant to be a relaxing experience, but the sense of anticipation as thirsty wildlife approaches the water’s edge in the day’s final moments adds another dimension to your sundowner. Watch from the comfort of many a lodge deck perched along the river, or head out on a river cruise as the last rays descend on the day.
A sunset cruise on the Chobe River
7. Lake Malawi, Malawi
A fisherman makes his way home on Lake Malawi
Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Nyasa) is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift System and the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the world. The shores are lined by unspoiled sandy beaches, and below the surface, over 1,000 different freshwater fish species dart between the rocks. Why Lake Malawi? Because beaches, sunsets and cocktails are a winning combination.
The ultimate in relaxation on the shores of Lake Malawi
8. Lanner Gorge, Makuleke Contractual Park, Greater Kruger, South Africa
The afternoon wanes over Lanner Gorge
This magnificent viewpoint marks the border between the magical Makuleke Contractual Park and the Kruger National Park. Here, the Luvuvhu River has carved a winding path through the sandstone to create a breathtaking gorge that is over 150 metres deep at some points. The views from the lookout point provide the perfect spot to ponder what life must have been like for the people of Africa’s ancient civilisations 900 years ago.
9. Luangwa River, South Luangwa, Zambia
The perfect way to end a day on the Luangwa River
Life in the Luangwa Valley centres around the Luangwa River and the rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding savannahs and woodlands. South Luangwa is the largest of the valley’s four national parks and is renowned for the enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes that congregate along the riverbanks. After an adrenaline-tinged day of walking in Big 5 country, soaking your feet in the cool waters of the Luangwa River is the perfect way to decompress.
Spotting elephants riverside
10. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Sundowners on the grassy plains of the Serengeti
The Serengeti’s vast, golden plains set the stage for some of Africa’s most unforgettable sundowners. Out on game drive, guides often find a quiet kopje or open stretch of savannah where you can watch the sun melt into the horizon, silhouetting giraffes or elephants in the amber light. Back at camp, the experience continues with drinks around a crackling fire, overlooking the wilderness as dusk gives way to starlight and the sounds of the nocturnal Serengeti awaken. Pure safari magic.
Final thoughts
Wherever you might find yourself in Africa, enjoying the beach, sitting with sleepy lions, or decompressing after a walking safari, stay there. Take a moment, look up and appreciate the unique display nature has prepared for you.
Sunset is a gorgeous time of the day anywhere in Africa
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Another Botswana tusker hunted + wild Nsumbu, Lake Tanganyika + 2 idyllic bush & beach safaris.
They will not stop targeting Africa’s free-roaming icons till every trophy has been surgically removed and hangs on a wall somewhere as a silent testimony to warped values, greed and ego. Our newsbreak below refers.
The trophy hunting industry targeting free-roaming wildlife is rotten to the core; the operators who do care about genuine sustainability (yes, they do exist, despite their mute status on issues like this) are swamped by the rest. They know that, and we know that. This outdated industry continues to suck away Africa’s biodiversity despite rapidly reducing free-roaming genetic stocks because enough individuals are sufficiently incentivised to keep the machine rolling and because the marketing machine is slick and aggressive. Cue the social media attacks. The end will come when all worthwhile individuals have been extracted. To better understand my view on hunting including and beyond free-roaming trophies, click here.
Meanwhile, my team and I continue bringing these atrocities to the world’s attention in the hope that the tide turns before we reach ground zero. We can do this, we can drive trophy hunting off the map by outcompeting them.
Know that every safari you enjoy with us supports our conservation media efforts, in addition to our donations to projects that make a tangible difference at ground level here in Africa. Thank you, and Safari njema, good people!
As I write this, a gang of red-headed weavers is smashing the fresh pollen buds of a flowering knob-thorn tree about 30 meters away – a wonderful spectacle indeed 🙂
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In the extreme conditions of the bushveld, where South Africa borders Botswana, and frosty cold mornings meet blazing hot afternoons, helmeted guineafowl have shown us that survival is all about clever adaptation.
After a year-long study from Madikwe, researchers have found that guineafowls have developed their own way of handling the heat (and the chill). While some animals huddle for warmth or sprint for shade, guineafowls puff up like feathered pom-poms when it’s cold, stretch tall and catch the breeze when it’s hot, catch morning sunrays to heat up, and gather in noisy flocks not for warmth, but to find food and keep an eye out for predators. No drama, just smart daily moves that help them ride out nature’s wild mood swings. And as our climate throws more curveballs, it’s clear: being flexible, having options, and knowing when to sunbathe might just be the secrets to survival.
This week, we bring you a guide to Zambia’s remote Nsumbu NP, a wildlife-rich wilderness on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Plus, we report on yet another shocking super tusker trophy hunt. See these stories below.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Lake Manyara NP to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti NP, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a chic boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:
“AG recently arranged a trip for my two adult kids and myself to Kafue NP and Busanga Plains in Zambia. We stayed in the Musekese and Ntemwa-Busanga Camps. Our trip was a delight in all aspects. The local charter flights were very good, and ground arrangements flawless. Both camps are beautifully sited, comfortable and very well run. All staff are so friendly and our two guides excellent. A bonus was the quality of the food. Liuwa Plain is our next objective!” – Peter, South Africa
“AG safari expert Benjamin was particularly attentive on email and helped sort a few of our issues quite quickly. Friendly and co-operative. Our guides in Tanzania and Kenya were super knowledgeable and attentive. Highlights were the hot air balloon experience and bush breakfast, and seeing lions and elephants up close. More highlights were the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust visit, our giraffe experience, Diani Beach and spending time with the Tanzanians and Kenyans.” – Jill, Australia
WATCH:
She’s the last of her kind – elusive, solitary, and deeply stressed by human contact. SANParks and top ecologists are working on a sensitive, long-term plan for the lone Knysna elephant. Jeff Ayliffe joins the team in the forest to uncover her story. (04:42) Click here to watch
On the remote shores of Lake Tanganyika, where Zambia meets the vastness of Africa’s Great Lakes, lies Nsumbu National Park, a place where wilderness whispers of revival and resilience. Once scarred by decades of poaching and neglect, Nsumbu is now a conservation success story, where elephants roam freely, lions return to ancestral grounds, and rare thickets flourish once more. Here, the rhythm of nature is uninterrupted, the landscapes are untouched, and the spirit of Africa is alive and thriving.
Nsumbu is based at the northernmost tip of Zambia and the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika, close to Lake Mweru. The Nsumbu Mweru Landscape comprises three national parks, three Game Management Areas, a community conservancy, and substantial tracts of intact habitat that link these protected areas. Wildlife once ranged across the entire ecosystem in significant numbers, but then years of illegal hunting took their toll, depleting the park’s wildlife. Extensive conservation efforts over the past decade have, fortunately, led to a turnaround, with monitoring showing a growth in wildlife numbers, particularly in the heart of the park, where animal populations are now spreading across larger areas.
A rocky start and a brighter future
Nsumbu National Park covers 2,026km², including over 100km² of protected lake waters and approximately 100km of lake shore. Natural bays, rocky coves, vertical cliffs, and sandy beaches line the park’s long shoreline, while inland, rugged hills, deep valleys, and grasslands are cut through by the Lufubu River, which, flanked by escarpments on either side, marks Nsumbu’s eastern boundary and feeds a variety of streams and wetlands.
Like other remote parks in Zambia, Nsumbu was virtually abandoned in the 1980s and 1990s. What followed was several decades of decline. A historical trade route, demand for ivory, political instability in neighbouring DRC and decades of rampant poaching for game meat, predominantly with wire snares, depleted the area’s wildlife, and led to the total loss of lion, leopard and black rhino.
Poaching has now been brought under control, and animal numbers are increasing, in part thanks to a buffer zone created by the two Game Management Areas that adjoin the park. In 2017, Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) formed the Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) in partnership with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), resulting in a significant and positive impact on the park. Recovery of the Nsumbu Tanganyika Ecosystem is underway. Today, herds of elephant and buffalo are seen once again, and healthy populations of antelopes in turn attract predators. There is also good birdwatching here, with over 300 species recorded. Nsumbu also holds the most extensive remaining tracts of Itigi-Sumbu thickets – a fragile ecosystem of which over 60% has been lost in the last 50 years.
In 2024, Nsumbu National Park achieved the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Green List Status, awarded only to the most sustainable and efficient global conservation efforts. Nsumbu is only Zambia’s second park on the list, the other being North Luangwa National Park, whose management is also a partnership between FZS and DNPW.
Elephants on the water’s edge
Wildlife of Nsumbu
Nsumbu is not a prime wildlife-viewing destination, but animal populations are definitely on the increase. Elephants and buffaloes often come to the lakeshore to drink, and a variety of antelope species, including roan, sable, eland and hartebeest, can be seen on game drives. Bushbucks, warthogs and pukus regularly frequent the beaches. The rare blue duiker is one of the park’s specialities, along with the shy, swamp-dwelling sitatungas. Other species found here are spotted hyena, side-striped jackal, serval, zebra, impala, waterbuck and reedbuck. Lions were reintroduced to Nsumbu in 2024, with further reintroductions planned for the future. Leopards are rare, and the spotted hyenas are shy, but can be heard and sometimes even seen at night.
Pukus amongst the grassesSitatunga resting amidst Nsumbu’s wildlife
Flora of Nsumbu
Lake Tanganyika is a typical Rift Valley lake, characterised by dramatic, steep sides for much of its length. In most places, the shore is rocky, but there are also sandy stretches. The Lufubu River dissects the park, which runs through the Yendwe Valley. In this and other valleys in the park, there are groves of riparian trees, including the apple-ring acacia (Acacia albida) and Natal mahogany (Trichilia emetic), along with dense, shrubby woodland (Pteleopsis anisoptera). Along the lakeshore, strangler figs and candelabra trees are found, while the remainder of the park is primarily comprised of miombo woodland and combretum thicket, with patches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket.
The lush landscapes of Nsumbu, complete with candelabra trees
Itigi-Sumbu thicket is a rare ecosystem, composed of up to 100 species, many of which are endemic. The most extensive remaining tracts of the Itigi-Sumbu forest are found only here in Nsumbu, as well as in parts of Tanzania and small pockets of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Characterised by thick, primarily deciduous, woody vegetation, and traditionally the habitat of elephants and black rhinos, this is a unique and endangered vegetation type, crucial yet fragile. With their restricted distribution, sensitivity to fire and vulnerability to deforestation, studies indicate that roughly 50% of the Itigi-Sumbu thickets in Tanzania and up to 70% in Zambia have already disappeared.
Nsumbu harbours the largest remaining stretches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket
Birdlife of Nsumbu
Birdlife in the Nsumbu National Park is prolific, with a total of 329 species recorded within the park, including many summer migrants. Commonly encountered species around the lake include the grey-headed gull, lesser black-backed gull, white-winged black tern, whiskered tern and, of course, the ubiquitous African fish eagle. Flamingos are one of the more spectacular migrants, while lakeshore inhabitants include African skimmers and spoonbills, along with a variety of storks, ducks and herons. Palm-nut vulture and Pel’s fishing owl are also occasionally seen.
The lake and its fish
Lake Tanganyika is Africa’s deepest and longest lake, spanning over 600km and containing 15% of the Earth’s available freshwater. Teeming with hippos and some of the largest crocodiles in Africa, swimming is not advisable. Nile crocodiles here can reach up to six metres in length, and hippos regularly emerge at night to ‘mow’ the grass. Also found in the lake are endemic reptiles like the Lake Tanganyika water snake (Lycodonomorphus bicolour) and water cobra (Boulengerina annulata). However, it is the life that has evolved here over the last 10 million or so years that makes Tanganyika special.
Jewels of Tanganyika – the lake’s endemic cichlids flash brilliant colours in Africa’s inland sea
Changing water levels over the millennia and a patchwork of habitats have led to an explosion of evolution among the lake’s cichlids, with around 250 unique and individual species. The cichlids of Tanganyika are remarkable in their diversity, complexity of behaviour, colour and breeding habits, and all but two species in the lake are endemic.
Nsumbu photographed from Lake Tanganyika
The Lufubu River
Beyond the lake, the free-flowing Lufubu River is the largest tributary of southern Lake Tanganyika. The sizable and perennial Lufubu River winds its way through the park, dissecting it from west to east, before pouring itself into the lake. Along its 250km journey, from the highlands to the lakeshore, the catchment encompasses diverse streams, beautiful oxbow lakes, and wetlands. The magnificent Chika Falls and the smaller Mwepwe Falls are Zambian heritage sites. At the same time, the extensive wetlands where the Lufubu meets the lake are part of the Ramsar Wetland of International Importance site that covers the length of Tanganyika’s shoreline within Zambia. The Lufubu is poorly documented and understudied, with great potential for species discovery. A 2023 study found that 25 of the 37 species sampled in the Lufubu are undescribed and endemic to the system.
Chika Falls on the Lufubu River
Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Project
The Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) is a long-term conservation partnership between the Zambia Department of National Parks & Wildlife and the Frankfurt Zoological Society, aiming to restore and protect the wider Nsumbu ecosystem. Since the start of the NTCP in 2017, a comprehensive conservation and protection strategy has been implemented, including investments in professional law enforcement, a canine unit, and rigorous snare removal. These efforts have seen a turnaround in this once heavily poached and depleted ecosystem. NTCP is also actively working to improve fisheries management and promote sustainable fishing practices in and around Nsumbu.
Local and indigenous communities play a vital role in the ongoing recovery and protection of Nsumbu. In surrounding community lands, conservation and livelihoods are deeply intertwined. Through collaborative initiatives such as the NTCP, local residents are engaged in anti-poaching patrols and sustainable natural resource management. Employment opportunities in park operations, tourism, and infrastructure development have provided alternative incomes and strengthened community buy-in. Traditional knowledge and cultural heritage also inform conservation strategies, fostering a sense of custodianship over the landscape. As wildlife returns and tourism slowly grows, these communities are increasingly positioned as stewards and beneficiaries of Nsumbu’s revitalisation, ensuring the park’s future is not only wild but also inclusive.
Since the start of the NTCP in 2017, a protection strategy, including anti-poaching patrols, has been implemented
Ecological monitoring, including camera traps and line transects, has been initiated, with analysis showing an increase in animal numbers, indicating recovery rooted in the well-protected heart of the park. In the early years of NTCP, elephants sought refuge in the more protected northern sector of the park. Today’s collar data show that, with improved protection, elephants are spreading across wider areas of the park for the first time in decades. No elephants have been recorded as poached since 2018, and despite increased patrols, fewer and fewer snares are being recovered.
NTCP is working to promote sustainable fishing practices in and around Nsumbu
In 2021, 200 buffaloes and 48 zebras were successfully translocated to Nsumbu National Park from North Luangwa to boost the remnant populations in the area. Buffalo and zebra, along with puku and warthog, are key prey species for lions, and their reintroduction was also part of a long-term plan to reintroduce lions, the apex predator, to Nsumbu. As a part of rewilding initiatives, in September 2024, three lions (two females from the same pride and a male from a different pride) were successfully translocated from North Luangwa National Park to Nsumbu.
A newly reintroduced lion surveys its ancestral realm
When to visit
Nsumbu receives few visitors, so it never feels crowded. From July to October, at the middle to end of the dry season, the water in the bush dries up, and the animals tend to stick closer to the lake. This is the best time for wildlife viewing. The thinner vegetation also means easier game viewing.
During the rainy season, from November to April, the lake is at its most beautiful, and this is a popular time to visit for angling. Most of the rain falls in thunderstorms, in the late afternoon or early morning, with lots of sunshine in between. Large numbers of migrant birds visit during the wet season, and the landscapes are stunning, with many perennial waterfalls visible from the lake. The terrestrial part of the park is inaccessible during this time.
Pukus at the feet of Nsumbu’s towering hills
Getting there
For intrepid self-drivers, the journey from Lusaka takes around two days, either via a direct route to Nsumbu, where the final stretch is a gravel road, or to Mpulungu Harbour, where travellers can arrange a speedboat transfer or board the local ferry. Those looking for a quicker option can fly to Kasama, followed by a road transfer to Mpulungu and a private boat across the lake to Nsumbu. The most seamless journey is a private charter flight straight into Chisala Airstrip within the park – ideal for those short on time.
Explore and stay
Safari-goers in Nsumbu National Park can enjoy a variety of activities that showcase the park’s diverse landscapes and rich biodiversity. Game drives offer the opportunity to spot a wide range of wildlife and incredible birdlife. Along the lake’s edge, guided boat safaris reveal hippos, crocodiles, and the striking scenery of hidden bays and sheer cliffs. The more adventurous can explore the Lufubu River by boat or on foot. Anglers will also find a variety of options here. Whether on land or water, every activity in Nsumbu offers a sense of exploration and discovery in one of Zambia’s most unspoiled wildernesses.
Despite its remote and wild setting, Nsumbu National Park offers a selection of intimate lodges and comfortable camps that blend seamlessly into the natural landscape. Nestled along the scenic shores of Lake Tanganyika, these accommodations range from beachside chalets to budget-friendly rooms and well-equipped campsites. Many feature lake views, onsite dining, and relaxed communal spaces, while some offer added luxuries such as swimming pools and air-conditioned rooms. Activities from these bases include guided game drives, fishing excursions, boat safaris, snorkelling, and sundowner cruises, making them not just places to stay, but immersive experiences in their own right.
Nsumbu National Park stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and the impact of dedicated conservation. From the depths of Lake Tanganyika to the heights of its escarpments, the park offers an unparalleled experience for those seeking solitude, adventure, and a connection to the wild. As wildlife returns and ecosystems flourish, Nsumbu invites travellers to witness the rebirth of a wilderness that, once on the brink, now thrives with life and promise.
Elephant amidst the brush
Find out about Zambia for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Liuwa Plain NP and Busanga Plains are two Zambian hidden gems, where thunderstorms transform plains into lush landscapes dense with wildlife. Read about Liuwa Plain here, and Busanga Plains here
This 109-pound tusker was recently hunted in Botswana’s NG42. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws. Photo supplied
Another massive elephant bull was recently killed in northern Botswana, according to our trusted sources on the ground: the surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. This bull had at least one tusk weighing 109 pounds, ranking him among Africa’s largest elephants.
This magnificent Botswana tusker was trophy hunted in NG42, a trophy hunting concession leased and managed by Johan Calitz Safaris. The professional hunter (right) and the client featured in the photo above are citizens of Botswana. NG42 borders Chobe National Park to its north and Nxai Pan National Park to its south, and has been earmarked for possible inclusion into Nxai Pan NP to protect the annual Botswana zebra migration between the parks.
We estimate there are 86+ tuskers remaining across Africa. Southern Africa is home to 59+, while East Africa hosts 27+ tuskers. This count excludes Central African forest elephant populations, where tusk measurements are rarely estimated.
Botswana, a popular luxury photographic safari destination, hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, with many of these animals migrating seasonally across much of southern Africa, particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), where Botswana and Zimbabwe are the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlements, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles, forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by poachers, farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels.
Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of large tree cover.
Comment from our CEO, Simon Espley:
“The killing of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of selecting large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of these genetically gifted icons from the African landscape. This probability in my lifetime will be a sad indictment of an archaic industry that promotes killing for fun and ego and that refuses to evolve to modern realities where the ‘resource’ is no longer abundant and inexhaustible.“
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Guides or influencers? + Tanzania safari circuits decoded + Tsavo tusker Buchuma
Shots fired! The editorial below from a respected safari guide will piss off some of his colleagues and attract vitriol. Uncomfortable truths tend to do that.
Sticking your head above the parapet always results in a defensive reaction from those who benefit from this behaviour, and, of course, unwelcome attention from those who react emotionally to headlines and fail to invest time in absorbing the details. Trust me in that regard; I have the scars to prove it.
Of course, Adam is referring to a tiny minority of safari guides who enjoy a skewed influence because their behaviour and posts are emotive and therefore favoured by algorithms that seek engagement above all else. To the other guides, those not engaging in these tactics, I say this: call out your colleagues on their behaviour. Drop them a direct message and do not back down when they inevitably react defensively. If you don’t regulate your own industry, the algorithms will…
Swimming against the tide is tiring, but ultimately rewarding. Congrats to you, Adam, for your brave missive. Hopefully, some of the culprits will rise above their self-appointed social media influencer status and change their ways.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
South Africa’s national bird, the elegant blue crane, is in trouble. Once the centre of a conservation comeback story, the blue crane’s stronghold populations have declined drastically, including in the Overberg and Karoo – enough to reclassify this iconic species as Vulnerable. The reasons are complex: fewer chicks fledging, habitat loss, collisions with powerlines, nests lost to predators or machinery, and farmlands that once seemed like safe havens proving treacherous under the weight of agrochemicals and poisoning.
But, this is not a swan song: the blue crane soared once before thanks to focused conservation, and it can again. This news is a call to action for all of us who find joy in a crane’s rattling call to support conservation efforts and spread the news.
This week, we bring you a comprehensive guide to Tanzania’s safari circuits, with everything you need to know. Plus, we look at the pressure that influencer guides are placing on wildlife, with a hard-hitting Op-Ed from Adam Bannister.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Combine three iconic parks with family fun for everyone. This nine-day family African safari to Kenya’s three most iconic destinations is packed with adventure for everyone. Expect an astonishing variety of wildlife encounters, from the Big 5 and Great Wildebeest Migration of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, to huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli National Park, and the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and beisa oryx.
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous Tsavo maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful tented camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
BUCHUMA, ONE OF AFRICA’S LAST GREAT TUSKERS
Buchuma is a true giant of Tsavo, Kenya – a rare super tusker whose sweeping ivory touches the earth. First identified in 2014, Buchuma is known for his striking, wide tusks (the right one slightly shorter due to a break) and a unique scar on his left abdomen.
We’ve partnered with Tsavo Trust to help protect extraordinary elephants like Buchuma. Fewer than 100 of these tuskers remain across the continent – and Tsavo is home to at least ten. These elephants are constantly threatened by poaching and trophy hunting beyond Kenya’s borders.
Your support can help keep them safe. Donations go directly to Tsavo Trust’s dedicated aerial and ground teams, who monitor and protect these living legends every day. Help safeguard Africa’s last tuskers – find out more and lend your support here.
WATCH: Check out this teaser for Out of Mined – a powerful documentary that lays bare the beauty and fragility of South Africa’s West Coast. From sweeping coastal scenes to the voices of local defenders, the documentary is a call to action against the devastation caused by heavy mineral and diamond mining. The documentary outlines one urgent mission: to protect what remains of the West Coast. (02:07) Click here to watch For more videos celebrating Africa,check out our videos here
Tanzania is an extraordinary country, replete with an abundance of mesmerising natural marvels and magnificent cultural nuances. It is an essential bucket-list destination for safari enthusiasts and wildlife lovers. Of course, in an ideal world, these visitors would have boundless time and money to explore the country at leisure, but this is not a realistic option for most. For many, a trip across the world to visit Tanzania’s majesty may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Tanzania is traditionally divided into “safari circuits” to ensure that travellers make the most of their special journey.
These circuits divide Tanzania into the four corners of the compass and consist of an itinerary of destinations designed to minimise travelling time and maximise the experience. Tanzania is a diverse country, so each circuit offers its own unique magic, divergent scenery, and appealing wildlife encounters. The northern, southern, western, and eastern circuits encompass a selection of national parks, reserves, conservation areas and even, in the case of the eastern circuit, islands and beaches, that visitors can choose based on their interests.
Tanzania’s northern circuit
Tanzania’s northern safari circuit is unequivocally the most popular circuit on this list (and very busy with tourist activity during peak safari season, from June to October). The northern circuit includes destinations that are the stuff of safari, travel and film-making legend. For first-time visitors who only plan to visit Tanzania, this is almost unfailingly the place to start. It involves some of the best roads in Tanzania, so every destination is easily and (relatively) quickly accessible, and there are countless accommodation options available for every budget, from basic campsites to some of the most luxurious lodges in Africa. However, cutting costs could mean compromising on experience. A tailor-made journey is far more likely to deliver a truly rewarding experience.
The northern circuit stretches from Lake Victoria in the west to Mount Kilimanjaro in the east, and it is bounded by the Kenyan border to the north and Tarangire National Park to the south. It includes such iconic names as the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and, naturally, more time should be devoted to exploring these areas than others.
Serengeti National Park
Serengeti National Park is a land synonymous with the very essence of an African safari, where the majesty of the scenery and expansive atmosphere is matched by extraordinary wildlife viewing. Here, sweeping grass plains, rocky outcrops and woodlands support myriad animal species, all engaged in a primordial battle for survival.
A typical sighting in Serengeti National Park. To see more pics from Alexander Ley, check out his profile here
Naturally, the Serengeti ecosystem is most famous for its role in the Great Migration – the second largest overland migration on earth. In fact, most of the year, the wildebeest herds move through the Serengeti before passing the international boundary into the Maasai Mara. No words can fully capture the dazzling feeling of sitting in amongst hundreds of thousands of animals that stretch as far as the eye can see or throw themselves helter-skelter at the mercy of the river crossings. However spectacular though it may be, the Serengeti is about more than the migration. The Big 5 are all present (the best chance of seeing the Big 5 is in the central Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater), and encounters with big cats and hyenas are all but guaranteed, viewed against the backdrop of breathtaking scenery.
The Serengeti ecosystem also incorporates several surrounding reserves and game control areas, all contiguous with the national park. These include Grumeti Controlled Area, Ikorongo Controlled Area, Loliondo Game Controlled Area and Maswa Game Reserve. The national park is also open to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area described below.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Conservation Area is often described as Africa’s Eden, with its most prominent feature being the Ngorongoro Crater. This ancient volcanic caldera encircles one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa, giving the impression that time stood still at the centre of the massive geological cradle. Here, many of Africa’s most iconic animals (including the Big 5) thrive, and every year, Lake Magadi flushes pink as hundreds of flamingos arrive during the breeding season.
An elephant grazes at the bottom of the crater
Outside the crater, the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro (bordering and open to the southern Serengeti) serves as a critical resting point in the Great Migration, as over half a million wildebeest arrive on the short grass plains to calve. At the height of the chaos, an estimated 8,000 calves are born each day, forced to find their feet quickly or be lost to the predators that throw themselves into the wildebeest melee with joyous abandon.
The steep-sided ravine of Olduvai (or, more correctly, Oldupai) Gorge is another of Ngorongoro’s significant attractions, having yielded a timeline of our evolution as a species. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of societies and social complexities that today define Homo sapiens.
Lake Manyara National Park
Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, with the remainder of the park sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. Previously known for its spectacular displays of flamingos and other water birds, Manyara is low-key and less frenetic than the extravaganza of Serengeti or Ngorongoro. This makes it ideal as a launchpad for exploring the northern circuit of Tanzania. However, Lake Manyara National Park has experienced flooding in recent years, impacting safari experiences. While the park remains open, some areas are submerged, and access to certain wildlife viewing locations has been affected. The flooding has also led to ecosystem disruptions and affected wildlife sightings, particularly flamingos, which have largely moved on. Visitors may experience limited sightings, flooded roads, and replaced game-driving routes. To maximise your safari experience, aim for June–October, or plan for half-day visits/leeways if travelling during the wettest months.
Lake Manyara in Tanzania’s northern safari circuit
Tarangire National Park
Not far from Lake Manyara, Tarangire National Park is the southernmost park in the northern circuit. It is a land of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas – unequivocally one of Africa’s most underrated African safari destinations, bursting with abundant wildlife. It is also an essential landscape for one of the lesser-known migrations in Tanzania because, during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available water sources. Tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction.
Tarangire National Park
Mount Kilimanjaro
As Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro needs little by way of introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit its peak. Its snow-capped summit stands out incongruously against the flat Rift Valley scenery below, and even those reluctant to don hiking boots should be content to gaze upon this African legend from its base.
An iconic shot of Mount Kilimanjaro, photographed from Amboseli
Arusha National Park and Mount Meru
The city of Arusha acts as the gateway to the northern circuit, meaning that Arusha National Park is usually the first or the last stop for travellers navigating the route. Within the park, the dormant volcano of Mount Meru is occasionally referred to as the “little brother” of Mount Kilimanjaro. It offers a much quieter and more intimate experience, along with spectacular wildlife encounters en route to the summit. Arusha NP and Mount Meru offer gentle and immersive introductions to, or conclusions for, your Tanzanian northern circuit safari, blending cultural experiences, lush landscapes, and convenient access to the region’s major national parks.
Mount Meru is Kilimanjaro’s “little brother”
Tanzania’s southern circuit
In contrast to the bustling northern circuit, Tanzania’s southern safari circuit is remote and wild, characterised by a feeling of absolute immersion without ever skimping on East Africa’s famous hospitality standards. This region is famed for its back-to-basics and authentic approach, where exploring on foot is an essential part of the experience and you can go for days without encountering another tourist. Much of this region is relatively arid compared to the luscious plains of the north but still incorporates areas with thriving swamps, verdant forests and spectacular waterfalls.
Ruaha National Park
Ruaha National Park is a gem of the southern circuit, an enormous and untamed semi-arid wilderness, divided by life-giving river systems and dotted with the pyknic forms of ancient baobabs. The rugged park supports high densities of herbivores (including sizeable herds of elephants) and one of the largest lion populations on the continent. Leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and African wild dog (painted wolf) sightings are frequent, and some lucky visitors have even managed to spot one of the park’s elusive striped hyenas.
A matriarch leads the herd to water in Ruaha
The protection of the greater Ruaha ecosystem is extended by the contiguous Rungwa, Kizigo, Usangu and Muhezi game reserves, all offering their own African safari experiences.
Nyerere National Park/Selous Game Reserve
Nyerere National Park extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, carved from the former Selous Game Reserve. The Rufiji River dominates the landscape, fanning into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes, and swamps, supplying a never-ending parade of thirsty animals drawn to the water’s edge. Though the declaration of the national park is intended to boost Nyerere’s tourism potential, there is no question that this remains something of a forgotten corner of Africa, where wildlife connoisseurs can lose themselves in the vast wilderness.
Wildlife viewing in Nyerere and Selous is exquisite
Mikumi National Park
Mikumi National Park lies adjacent to the northern border of Nyerere National Park and is easily accessible from Dar Es Salaam, making it a popular choice for local tourists. However, few international guests have yet to discover the splendour of Mikume’s expansive floodplains and prolific animal sightings.
The giants of Mikumi
Udzungwa Mountains National Park
Despite its proximity to the western edge of Nyerere National Park, the misty forests and picturesque, tumbling waterfalls of Udzungwa Mountains National Park make it seem worlds apart. These mountains are a biodiversity hotspot characterised by mind-boggling levels of endemism, with species including the Iringa red colobus, the Sanje crested mangabey, the Udzungwa partridge and the rufous-winged sunbird.
A mangabey spotted in Udzungwa
Tanzania’s western circuit
Unlike the northern and southern safari circuits, Tanzania’s western circuit breaks away somewhat from the more traditional safari fare. This is a shorter and more specialised circuit and should be combined with aspects from the northern or southern circuit if time and resources allow.
Gombe Stream National Park
Situated on the northeastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the tiny Gombe Stream National Park is one of only a few places in Tanzania where chimpanzees can be encountered in the wild. This intimate park sports exceptional biodiversity and is celebrated as the park where Jane Goodall first set up her now-famous research centre. Here, visitors can follow expert guides into the heart of the forest in search of our chimpanzee kin, admiring the many other primate species along the way.
A chimpanzee greets the setting sun in Gombe Stream
Mahale National Park
Also situated on the banks of Lake Tanganyika, Mahale National Park is substantially larger than Gombe, extending over the craggy Mahale Mountains and across rolling hills to the east. The forested western slopes are home to a substantial population of chimpanzees, with many families being the subjects of scientific study for over 50 years. And how better to celebrate a successful (and exhausting) day spent trekking for chimps than diving into the cool embrace of Lake Tanganyika’s crystal waters or lounging on its beaches, cocktail in hand?
Picturesque Lake Tanganyika
Katavi National Park
Katavi National Park is one of Tanzania’s most electrifying African safari destinations, ruled by the cadence of the rainy season. During the late dry season, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun and its residents are forced to compete for access to the remaining water in a dramatic battle for survival. Visitors who venture here off the beaten safari track are rewarded with a natural African nirvana that they can enjoy all to themselves.
Elephants of Katavi
Tanzania’s eastern/coastal circuit
With all the excitement of an African safari, complete with early mornings, dusty roads and adrenaline-inducing sightings, it is well worth taking a few days to collect one’s emotions before returning home from Tanzania. And where better to do that than on one of the country’s tropical paradise beaches? Though the mainland offers some beautiful spots to soak in the sun, the islands off-shore provide the best seaside escapes.
Zanzibar Island
Zanzibar is the largest and most popular of Tanzania’s islands, renowned as a honeymoon destination and beach paradise. From dazzling beaches to the vibrant cultural hub of Stone Town, Zanzibar is an accessible and relatively affordable island Utopia. When planning your time in Zanzibar, it’s worth researching the different coastal areas: some beaches buzz with activity and crowds, others feel overly touristy with persistent beach vendors, and a few have little sandy shoreline but offer excellent snorkelling just offshore.
The island paradise of Zanzibar
Mafia Island
Less crowded and more exclusive than Zanzibar, Mafia Island offers the perfect place to soak up the resplendent marine scenery, including snorkelling, diving with whale sharks, and even watching hundreds of turtle hatchlings make their perilous first journey to the sea.
Mafia Island is a beach haven away from the crowds
Pemba Island
Like Mafia Island, Pemba Island is quieter than Zanzibar, removed from the trappings of mass tourism. Its fertile soils support rolling hills covered with fruit-laden coconut, banana and cassava trees. The warm waters surrounding it are famous for their exceptional diving and snorkelling opportunities.
Dolphin spotting off Pemba Island
Final thoughts
No matter the safari circuit, Tanzania is a country that consistently delivers excitement and copious natural wonders to its fortunate visitors.
Further reading
The Great Wildebeest Migration is the quintessential African safari experience. Here’s our detailed guide on everything you need to know
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro here
As social media rewards spectacle over substance, some private guides are prioritising viral content at the expense of ethics, safety, and the very animals they claim to champion. Drawing on firsthand accounts from across Africa and India, Adam Bannister explores the troubling rise of performative guiding – and makes a compelling call for a return to integrity, collaboration, and true connection with the wild
Private guiding, when done well, is one of the most valuable roles in the modern safari world.
Private guides bring a depth of knowledge, passion and continuity that can elevate a journey to something extraordinary. They often act as global ambassadors for conservation, bridging cultures and ecosystems. They open the eyes of their guests, and sometimes local guides too, to new ways of seeing the natural world. Their experience across diverse biomes allows them to offer layered perspectives, connecting dots across continents. At their best, they collaborate, inspire and enrich every environment they enter.
But with significant influence comes great responsibility. And, increasingly, I’ve noticed a troubling trend – one that’s being raised not by outsiders or critics but by the very people who share the field with them: the camp-based, often local guides who host these private guides on their home turf.
Over the past few months, I’ve been travelling across Africa and India, conducting training workshops for local, camp-based guides. In each of these sessions, I always carve out time to ask a simple but telling question: “What is the greatest challenge you face in your work as a guide?”
The answer, echoed across multiple camps, isn’t demanding guests, rain, bumpy roads, long hours or even time away from family. It is the behaviour of some private, often foreign, guides. And it strikes a chord that I can no longer ignore.
These are not just any guides. These are individuals, often high-profile, social media-famous personalities, who accompany their guests on safaris, frequently travelling between countries and camps. Increasingly, their work appears fuelled by Instagram likes, dramatic imagery and the need to secure the next client. But, in doing so, some are pushing boundaries – not only the ethical boundaries of wildlife viewing but also the patience and professional standards of local teams.
The best safaris are guided by respect, patience, and presence
Local guides have told me, time and again, that it is these celebrity-style private guides (not the many who operate with care and professionalism) who make their jobs most complicated. They feel pressured to park in unsafe locations. They’re pushed for closer, riskier approaches. They’re urged to allow clients out of the vehicle, even in the presence of predators, all to get that coveted low-angle shot.
Some go so far as to place guests on foot beside lions, wild dogs, cheetahs or elephants – not for the guest’s deeper connection but for the sake of content. A quick scroll through their feeds reveals thousands of followers and carefully edited highlight reels of clients standing within metres of wild, dangerous animals.
This behaviour is deeply troubling. It’s reckless. It’s dangerous. And it erodes the foundation of responsible guiding.
What’s perhaps most disheartening is the imbalance of power. Many local guides, young men and women born into these landscapes, and trained under strict codes of conduct, feel unable to speak up. When a guide with hundreds of thousands of followers leans in and says, “It’s fine, trust me”, it takes extraordinary courage to push back.
Many don’t. They defer. They become, as one guide sadly told me, “just the driver”. But this is not how it should be. A great private guide should enhance an experience, not dominate it. They should bring depth, collaboration and storytelling, not override safety protocols and dismiss the concerns of professionals who live and work in that ecosystem. They should uplift industry standards, not drag them down.
Let’s be very clear: We are witnessing a shift where the image has become more important than the animal. And worse still, where the image is secondary to the footage of us getting the picture.
Wildlife appreciation used to be precisely that – quiet reverence, long hours of observation and interpreting the subtle nuances of wild behaviour. Now, for some, it has morphed into “look at me”. Guides once praised for patience and insight are being overshadowed by those who specialise in risk, spectacle and viral content. But there’s another layer of absurdity to all this.
In this stock photo, a leopard, clearly distressed by the photographer’s presence, snarls in warning. The desire to create intriguing content is encroaching on the animal’s space, safety, and dignity, and endangering guests: a line no ethical guide should cross
Increasingly, these high-profile guides aren’t just chasing content at the expense of ethics; they’re doing it at the expense of their own guests. Guests who have paid generously for the privilege of private guiding now find themselves watching their guides perform for a camera. The guides are busy framing their reels and stories instead of interpreting the experience for those who hired them.
The priorities have become warped. Moments that should be about connection – a family of elephants crossing a river, the twitch of a leopard’s tail or the powerful sound of a lion’s roar – are instead treated as content opportunities. Instead of narrating behaviours or deepening understanding, some guides are walking into frame, adjusting GoPros and Insta360 cameras or instructing the guest to “stand just here” so the guide can get a shot.
It’s no longer about enriching the guest’s safari; it’s about building the guide’s brand. We can dress it up however we want. We can write lengthy captions about our extensive experience and how we’ve “read the situation perfectly”. But the truth is: If you’re looking through a lens or a phone screen, you are not fully present. You are not in control. And, if something goes wrong, the animal pays the price. It becomes stressed, habituated and unpredictable – or worse, it’s labelled a problem and removed.
We cannot pretend to champion conservation while simultaneously breaking the rules to manufacture drama for our benefit.
Let’s revisit what it truly means to be a guide. Our role is to expose people to the natural and cultural heritage of a place: its stories, its subtleties and its sacredness. To interpret behaviour, not stage it. To elevate the dignity of the animals and landscapes we work in, not reduce them to backdrops for personal branding.
Social media has given us incredible power. But with it comes enormous responsibility. If we have large followings, we must lead by example. If we claim to care about conservation, we must act like it, not just say it in hashtags. The irony is stark. The very platforms that could be used to educate and inspire are encouraging a race to the bottom, where the loudest, boldest and most outrageous content wins. The losers, inevitably, are the animals.
As an industry, we need a reckoning. We must ask ourselves: Are we part of the solution, or are we fuelling the problem? Let’s not forget why we guide. It is not for fame. It is not for followers. It is to awaken something in others – to be a bridge between the wilderness and the people lucky enough to witness it. The moment we place our content above the guest’s experience – or the animal’s welfare – we have stopped being guides.
If you’re seeking an unforgettable safari that makes a real difference, browse our ethical safaris and journey with purpose. Africa Geographic crafts tailor-made luxury safaris with trusted, ethical partners who prioritise conservation, communities, and animal welfare.
We have become influencers masquerading in khaki. This is not an attack on private guiding. Quite the opposite. It is a plea for the incredible power and potential of private guiding to be used well, with humility, ethics and grace. At its best, private guiding transforms lives, creates ambassadors for wild places and helps raise standards across the board. But it must be grounded in the right intentions. It’s time we return to integrity. It’s time we restore respect for wildlife, for each other and the guiding profession.
Because when a photograph becomes more important than the animal, we all lose.
Adam Bannister is a South African-trained biologist, safari guide, author and storyteller who has spent nearly two decades immersed in some of the world’s most iconic wild places, from the Sabi Sands and Maasai Mara to the deserts of Rajasthan and the forests of Rwanda and Peru. With a passion for training guides, Adam works across Africa and India to help guiding teams unlock their full potential, combining science, storytelling and presence to elevate the guest experience. His strength lies in translating complex natural phenomena into meaningful, memorable moments in the field. Read more about Adam here.
Further reading
Habituating leopards: Jamie Paterson & Maxine Gaines take an in-depth look at leopard habituation & tourism ethics. Read the story here
In a refreshingly honest opinion editorial, we look at eco-ethics amongst safari guides as they go about finding animals for guests. Check it out here
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Parrots, predators & the Karoo + Zambia safari highlights
When it comes to the secrets of anti-ageing, perhaps it’s time we stop looking to serums, surgery and snake-oil salesmen, and start taking notes from the forests of Madagascar. African wildlife, once again, is showing us how it’s done. Move over Kris Jenner: the fat-tailed dwarf lemur has just emerged as Planet Earth’s most unexpected age-defying role model.
New research reveals that during deep hibernation, these tiny primates lengthen their telomeres (the protective caps on our DNA that normally shrink with age): effectively pressing pause (and rewind) on cellular ageing. While we power through stress and screen time, these lemurs are outliving their peers simply by switching off and sleeping through the lean seasons. Now scientists are hoping these sleepy little wonders might hold clues for us to better understand ageing in humans, without the need for living in a tree hole for seven months. Who knew the secret to youth might be a long, uninterrupted nap?
This week, we explore the wonders of one of South Africa’s lesser-known national parks: another gem of the Karoo, Mountain Zebra National Park. Plus, we debate whether captive breeding of parrots can reduce pressure on wild populations, or worsen the conservation crisis. Check out our stories below. And don’t miss out on our two incredible safaris to Zambia.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Africa Geographic Editor
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephant. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:
Fabulous stay at Robins Camp: “Our trip to Robins Camps in Hwange NP, Zimbabwe, with a family group of 11 people, was perfect from start to finish. AG expert Dave took the time to understand what we were looking for and found the perfect 2-day stay for us within our time constraints and budget. He answered any questions thoroughly and promptly. It was delightful to disconnect from our busy lives, and just sit around the pool in the middle of nature, watching animals. The game drives were the highlight of our stay. Our guides were extremely knowledgeable about wildlife and were patient in answering our questions. It was a special treat to see hippos in their natural habitat, and to see three female lions with their two cubs. We are still savouring our memories. – Diana, USA
Africa Geographic planned a perfect Tanzania bush and beach safari for my family. Safari expert Stef planned our trip, and the lodges and camps were outstanding. The beach holiday was a perfect ending. Our guide Thomas was fantastic. – Tyrone, USA
WATCH: Planning an African safari can be overwhelming – but it doesn’t have to be. Wildlife photographer Andrew MacDonald shares what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly extraordinary. AG have been safari experts and storytellers since 1991, using deep, local knowledge to craft tailor-made journeys filled with unforgettable wildlife, luxurious lodges, and meaningful connections. All you need to do is show up and soak it all in – knowing your trip is making a real difference. Ready to plan your dream safari? Let Africa Geographic guide the way. (03:26) Click here to watch
Parrots, with their vibrant plumage, distinctive voices, and remarkable intelligence, have long captivated the human imagination. The popularity of parrots as pets has increased dramatically over the last decade, spurred on by social media and by the exotic pet trade’s hunger for rarity. As trade has increased, so too has commercial captive breeding of these birds. And yet some researchers are asking the controversial question: Does captive breeding help or hinder the conservation of the wild parrot populations?
According to the IUCN Red List, of the 398 known species of parrots, 18 are critically endangered, 39 are endangered, and 55 are vulnerable. Parrots are among the most threatened avian groups worldwide, and many parrot species are at risk of extinction.
Parrots in peril
Among Africa’s parrot species, the African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus) stands out as one of the most heavily trafficked birds in the world. Prized for its intelligence and mimicry, this species has suffered catastrophic declines due to illegal trapping and habitat loss. By some estimates, populations in parts of West Africa have dropped by over 90%. (Population strongholds remain in a few West African protected areas, such as Congo Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park). Despite its listing on CITES Appendix I, trade continues in many regions through loopholes and poor enforcement. Its close relative, the Timneh parrot (Psittacus timneh), once considered a subspecies, is also under severe pressure and now classified as Endangered. Other African parrots facing growing threats include the Cape parrot (Poicephalus robustus), South Africa’s only endemic parrot, which is Endangered due to habitat fragmentation and historical trapping, and the Rüppell’s parrot (Poicephalus rueppellii), which is increasingly targeted for trade in Namibia and Angola. While not as globally prominent as African grey parrots, species like the rosy-faced lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis), Fischer’s lovebird (Agapornis fischeri), and Meyer’s parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) are also impacted by wildlife trade, facing pressures from local trapping, habitat loss, and poorly regulated regional markets that continue to remove wild individuals despite captive breeding efforts. Without stronger protection and enforcement, several of these species risk being lost from the wild.
A caged African grey parrot. Popular as a pet, grey parrots are of the most heavily trafficked birds in the world
The current global protected area network only covers 10% of parrots’ total geographic range, according to a 2020 study. This lack of habitat protection adds urgency to discussions about potential conservation strategies.
The captive breeding debate
It is this dire situation that has led researchers to weigh up all options in the fight to save parrot populations, with their findings laid out in a recent publication. One approach is to question whether commercial captive breeding is successful in reducing pressures on wild birds. Historically, the overexploitation of wild parrots for the pet trade has led to drastic population declines in certain species, and conservationists aim to prevent such impacts from recurring. That is why researchers from the World Parrot Trust and World Animal Protection set out to investigate whether commercial captive breeding of parrots is a plausible intervention to address unsustainable trade. The researchers sought to determine whether breeding parrots in captivity would result in fewer birds being taken from the wild. They developed a set of conditions or prerequisites that must be met before one can justify the use of captive breeding as a conservation tool. The researchers then investigated whether these conditions were being met by reviewing and collating the scientific and grey literature for 16 parrot species currently traded as pets.
The study is important, as captive breeding is increasingly being promoted, sometimes by governments, sometimes by private interests, as a potential solution to the overexploitation of wild parrots. The idea is that if consumer demand can be met with legally bred birds, the incentive to poach wild individuals will decrease. It’s a “supply-side” approach, akin to farming rhinos to harvest their horns and reduce illegal trade in horn.
Fischer’s lovebirds in a breeding aviary. These lovebirds are commonly linked to wildlife trade concerns due to ongoing wild capture and habitat decline
However, as the study itself notes, this premise is riddled with untested assumptions, and there’s very little empirical evidence showing that captive breeding reliably reduces pressure on wild populations, especially in the parrot trade. What’s more, there’s growing concern that the mere presence of legal markets provides cover for laundering wild-caught birds.
Captive breeding may fuel, not curb, trade in parrots
As researchers unpacked the evidence for whether captive breeding could offset demand on wild populations, they found that the captive-bred parrot trade is stimulating and facilitating trade in wild-sourced parrots, rather than hindering it.
One of the key considerations highlighted in the review is that parrots are high-maintenance creatures, and some species may take years to mature sexually. This challenges the assumption that breeding is a more cost-effective solution for traders – it is not more cost-effective than sourcing birds from the wild. For those illegally trading wild birds, illegal capture incurs few upfront costs.
Captive breeding costs include the authorities’ expenses for monitoring and regulation. Without this regulatory control, there would be no way to verify that breeding stock is not being taken from wild parrots.
Regulatory failure and laundering risks
For captive breeding to be considered as an effective conservation measure for protecting wild birds, the scenario would need to ensure no wild birds be removed from the wild for any reason. This criterion has been repeatedly broken by captive breeders removing wild birds for restocking or improving genetic breeding stock. Furthermore, wild birds are often captured or poached under the guise of captive breeding programs, an unintended consequence with a negative impact on wild populations. Commercial captive breeding would need to be governed by adequate regulatory measures to prevent laundering, and this level of control is often lacking in many countries.
Demand uncertainty and market gaps
The researchers also considered whether consumers preferred captive-bred parrots to wild-caught parrots (much like the question of whether farming of rhinos for their horns could prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn). They did not have enough data to conclude whether this held, but calculated that it could have a significant impact on the demand side of the pet trade. This gap was one of many significant knowledge gaps that need to be addressed before breeding is even considered as an effective conservation measure.
Even in cases where researchers identified that quick-breeding parakeets and cockatiels could be bred in sufficient quantity to supply and even exceed demand, this was only applicable within domestic, low-value markets. Furthermore, this scenario does not address illegal trade of rarer, high-value species.
Rosy-faced lovebirds, while less targeted in the illegal trade due to their wide availability through captive breeding, are a major part of the broader pet market landscape
There were also unintended consequences of captive breeding. The study also re-emphasises that legitimising the pet trade can stimulate demand on both wild and captive populations. The researchers warned that large-scale captive breeding may inadvertently boost wild capture, highlighting significant unknowns: productivity data, scale in Asian markets, and profitability under strong oversight remain lacking.
Illegal trade in parrots persists
Despite some captive‐breeding efforts, the illegal parrot trade remains rampant. In 2024, seizures included 60 parrots in Indonesia, 36 African greys in Nigeria, and over 12,000 in the DRC. Bolivia alone loses approximately 22,000 wild parrots annually to the pet trade. This underscores that trafficking continues unabated, with wildlife crime valued at roughly $20 billion/year. However, tackling enforcement has gained a digital boost: advanced AI methods (such as language-learning models and image-recognition models) are now capable of detecting illegal wildlife trade advertisements online, offering a promising new weapon against clandestine sales.
On another hopeful note, some source nations are taking serious steps: in April 2025, DRC’s Tshopo Province imposed a ban on wild-caught African grey parrots, a major blow to traffickers using river and airport routes. However, the efficacy of this measure will depend on consistent enforcement.
Rethinking conservation priorities
The authors conclude that the efficacy of captive breeding in reducing pet-trade pressures on wild populations is difficult to prove. They affirm that the conditions for it to work are rarely met and that, in many cases, captive breeding exacerbates the problem. Still, the fact that the conversation is happening at all is a signal of how deeply the commodification of wildlife has permeated conservation discourse.
Wild Cape parrots in flight
The study recommends that decision-makers review captive breeding policies carefully before committing parrot species conservation to interventions with uncertain outcomes.
Furthermore, beyond considering captive breeding as a far-fetched conservation tool, the survival of parrots in the wild depends on meaningful habitat protection, strong law enforcement, and a societal shift away from treating wildlife as novelty pets.
Africa’s parrots are colourful characters that live in complex social groups. But they are among the most threatened of all bird families. Read more about Africa’s parrots here
A recent study examines how social media marketplaces facilitate the trafficking of endangered African grey parrots. Check out the study here
In the heart of South Africa’s Eastern Cape, where grasslands roll into ridges and the Karoo sun shines golden, there is a national park that rarely makes it onto bucket lists. It does not draw convoys of safari vehicles or Instagram fame. But Mountain Zebra National Park, just outside Cradock and three hours from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth), quietly delivers something far richer: space, solitude, and a conservation story worth telling.
Among boulder-strewn ridges and wind-swept grasslands, a quiet conservation triumph has taken root, where endangered zebras found sanctuary and cheetahs and lions returned to land that once forgot them. This is not the home of your typical African safari, but a lesser-known gem – home to four of the Big Five – worth exploring.
It starts with a zebra
It all began with a zebra, or more accurately, the Cape mountain zebra, a delicate, sure-footed cousin of the better-known plains variety. By the 1930s, hunters pushed this particular subspecies to the brink. A small number remained, hanging on in isolated pockets of the Karoo.
Cape mountain zebra in the foothills
Recognising the urgency of the zebra’s situation, the South African government set aside a sliver of land in 1937, just over 1,700 hectares, as a refuge for the remaining animals. This modest gesture planted the seed for what would eventually become a full-fledged national park. Fast forward to today: the park now covers over 28,000 hectares and supports a thriving population of Cape mountain zebras.
A zebra foal frolics through the long grasses of the Mountain Zebra National Park grasses
Cape mountain zebras are unmistakably different from plains zebras (or its southern subspecies, Burchell’s zebra), which do not occur in this park. They come with a dewlap under the neck and solid stripes that do not run under the belly. They are also stockier and made for rocky areas.
Mountain kingdom
What sets South Africa’s Mountain Zebra NP apart is its scenery. Vast plains give way to thickets, slopes scattered with boulders, and the Bankberg Mountains to crown it all. For anyone with a love of space and stillness, this park is an invitation to slow down, revealing a kind of drama that unfolds at its own pace. The diverse terrain is ideal for mountain bikers, hikers, and 4×4 enthusiasts, while traditional safari experiences such as guided game drives and bush walks are also available.
Rising from 910 to a lofty 2,135 metres above sea level, Mountain Zebra NP offers a landscape as varied as it is spectacular. At its highest point, Bakenkop peaks at 1,954 metres, offering panoramic views that will leave you breathless in more ways than one.
Endless horizons and shifting light: Mountain Zebra National Park’s rugged beauty stretches in every direction
The park’s southern reaches are particularly dramatic, where the rugged Bankberg mountains surge skyward, with altitudes ranging between 1,300 and 1,900 metres, and some rocky outcrops pushing beyond the 2,000-metre mark. The Bankberg escarpment particularly offers dramatic hikes and 4×4 routes that unveil shifting vistas, making the park both geologically fascinating and visually breathtaking. From the moment you pass through the entrance gate at 998 metres and ascend to the reception area at 1,215 metres, you’re immersed in a high-altitude haven sculpted by time and teeming with life.
Since 2012, the park has been actively restoring degraded land using erosion-control techniques and initiatives to clear invasive plants like prickly pear and jointed cactus. These efforts rejuvenate natural habitats and develop local employment and skills through public‑works programs, strengthening ecology and communities.
The road less travelled, winding its way into the heart of the Bankberg mountains.
Wildlife in Mountain Zebra NP
This variation in terrain means game viewing is diverse, too. Black wildebeest and springbok graze on the plains along with other antelopes like red hartebeest, eland and blesbok. The mountain reedbuck and grey rhebok prefer the high mountain slopes along the Kranskop Loop, one of the park’s scenic routes. One might run into Cape buffalo in the protected thicket and wooded valleys. And a few fortunate travellers may even get to spot the park’s black rhinos.
Twin sentinels of the Karoo: blesbok stand watch in the grass
Big cats were absent from this landscape for a long time, but in 2007, SANParks reintroduced cheetahs to the park, which historically occurred in the region. Since then, Mountain Zebra NP has been pivotal in restoring South Africa’s cheetah population. This rewilding effort began with two females from Samara Game Reserve, followed by two males to establish a breeding population. Mountain Zebra NP soon became a key player in the Cheetah Range Expansion Project (originally the Cheetah Metapopulation Project), an initiative by the Endangered Wildlife Trust to secure the future of cheetah populations confined to fenced reserves across the subcontinent. Cheetah numbers flourished rapidly, prompting early translocations to maintain genetic diversity and reduce inbreeding risk. Since then, the park has contributed more than 35 cheetahs to metapopulation efforts across Southern Africa, including rewilding sites in Malawi and Zambia.
Springboks on the plains
Beyond its conservation science accolades, the national park offers guests a rare privilege: the opportunity to explore the Karoo wilderness on foot, witness these free-roaming cheetahs from a respectful distance, and observe the success of modern conservation in action firsthand. The experience is immersive and humbling: tracking these elusive cats using telemetry across sun-drenched ridges and valleys where they’ve reclaimed ancestral ground.
Tracking collared cheetahs with telemetry equipmentMountain Zebra National Park’s cheetahs are thriving and are an essential source of genetics for the cheetah metapopulation
The park is also home to lions, which were reintroduced in 2013, after an absence of 130 years from the area. At the time, three lions (one female and two males) were introduced to the park. In 2019, the area welcomed its first litter of cubs. This means that the park is home to four of the Big Five (including leopards – only elephants are absent).
This park is also an excellent destination for animals rarely seen in other wilderness areas, including elusive aardwolf, brown hyena and bushpig. Aardvark and porcupine are also seen on guided night drives through the park. And a lucky few have even spotted black-footed cats in the park.
Flora and birdlife in Mountain Zebra NP
The vegetation of Mountain Zebra NP is a rich mosaic of three distinct types: Karoo Escarpment Grassland, Eastern Upper Karoo, and Eastern Cape Escarpment Thicket. These represent elements of three major South African biomes: Grassland, Nama-Karoo, and Thicket. This blend supports high biodiversity, ecological resilience, and scenic variation. The grasslands, dominated by Merxmuellera disticha and hardy shrubs like Euryops annuus, are prone to natural fires and offer critical forage for large herbivores, especially on the park’s north-facing, sun-warmed slopes. The more arid Eastern Upper Karoo shifts with rainfall, alternating between grassy and shrubby dominance. The park boasts exceptional botanical richness with over 680 plant species recorded, including 13 Red Data species. Crucially, the vegetation types preserved here are among the least protected elsewhere in South Africa, making MZNP a vital stronghold for the long-term conservation of South Africa’s unique arid and transitional flora.
The park’s golden vistas stand ready to be explored.
Because of the varied vegetation and habitat, including open plains, mountainous areas and thickets, birdlife delivers great variety. With over 270 species recorded, it is a birder’s paradise. Open plains, such as in the Rooiplaat area of the park, draw larks, pipits, blue cranes, secretarybirds, and bustards. The rocky slopes are prime territory for raptors like Verreaux’s eagle, martial eagle, and jackal buzzard. River thickets shelter smaller species. Drakensberg rockjumper and ground woodpecker are frequently seen around the park’s mountain cottages.
Things to do in Mountain Zebra NP
Beyond the animals you can find on self-drive or guided game drives, Mountain Zebra NP holds human history, too. Several rocky areas in the park protect ancient rock art. A guided walk to these sites reveals more than just pigment on stone. It is a glimpse into how people once lived in and related to this area.
There are also 4×4 routes for the adventurous, and two walking trails within the rest camp. Whether on foot or behind the wheel, the sense of space is always present.
On Saltpeterskop, one of the prominent kopjes in the park, British soldiers etched their names and a full-sized chessboard into the rock during the Anglo-Boer War. Legend has it they played long-distance games with comrades in Cradock using signal mirrors to communicate the moves. Guided walks up to this spot are on offer for fit travellers.
Game drives may yield incredibly rewarding sightings
Explore and Stay
The park’s accommodation suits a range of budgets and preferences – from camping under the stars to cosy family cottages. The newest addition, the rock chalets, is highly recommended for its views. If you are after solitude, skip the main rest camp and opt for a rustic mountain cottage or the charming historic guesthouse. Prefer camping? There’s a well-equipped site for tents and caravans too.
The Black Eagle Trail, leaving from the main rest camp, offers a 2.5km hike with exceptional views
Mountain Zebra NP may not draw massive crowds like the Kruger National Park, but that is part of its power. It offers a rarer chance to experience South Africa’s wild spaces without the bustle. To linger, to breathe, to watch a jackal pass through the twilight or to hear the first call of the birds at dawn.
Cape Mountain zebras are the park’s namesake and pride
Mountain Zebra NP is not about ticking species off a list. It’s about listening to wind in the grass, watching the earth breathe, and witnessing a wilderness that healed itself. In these high Karoo spaces, travellers don’t just visit nature. They walk inside a conservation story still being written.
From relaxed elephants to hard-working dung beetles, Addo Elephant National Park is another Eastern Cape park worth exploring. This conservation marvel is packed with wildlife, adventure, and history. Read more about Addo here
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Leopard hunting exposé + Join a Zambian wildlife translocation safari this July
Experienced travellers regularly ask me to recommend one safari that makes an immediate, measurable conservation impact. This is it.
In late July, African Parks is translocating hundreds of zebras and wildebeest from Zambia’s Liuwa Plain to Kafue. Six Africa Geographic guests will join their crew of vets and rangers on the ground in Liuwa Plain to monitor herds, shepherd them towards capture bomas and load them into trucks. And they will witness a release in Kafue. There may also be veterinary procedures related to scientific research and the treatment of injuries, if necessary. You could join that VIP group and play your part. It will be noisy, dusty and fast-paced at times, but always deeply meaningful at conservation ground zero. I have joined this and other crews on similar missions – it’s exhilarating and immensely satisfying. Not only do you get your hands dirty and learn a great deal about conservation, but your safari price also directly finances these translocations.
And yes, you will have time for game drives and other epic safari activities – in Liuwa Plain and the astonishingly fantastic Busanga Plains, Kafue. In Liuwa Plain, your stay will be hosted by African Parks in a comfortable tented camp built specifically for this experience, while in Kafue, you’ll be hosted in a rustic safari bush camp. The short flights between Lusaka, Liuwa and Kafue will give you an epic birds-eye view of this vast biodiverse landscape.
As you read this, I am in Botswana – first the Central Kalahari and then the Okavango Delta, inspecting lodges and finding the magic that goes into our tailor-made safaris. This is one tough aspect of my job, but someone has to do it 😉
Thanks for reading this.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
For the first time in six years, an elephant has been spotted in Senegal’s Niokolo-Koba National Park – and not just any elephant, but Ousmane, a lone bull who is a forest and savannah hybrid. Captured by a camera trap in the moonlit hush of the forest, his unexpected cameo has reignited hopes that the park’s once-silent herds may return. With millions invested and boots on the ground, conservationists are starting discussions on rewilding a population that had all but vanished. Dare we hope? If the latest forest whispers are anything to go by, then definitely.
This week, we examine a report that details the extent to which trophy hunting is affecting leopards. And, we dive into the magical world of mountain gorillas, with everything there is to know about these gentle giants.
Happy exploring!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Dusty air, pounding hooves and the warm sun on your neck: this is what you can expect from this exclusive safari opportunity. Join Africa Geographic and African Parks on a hands-on conservation adventure this July, where you will be right at the central part of a wildebeest and zebra translocation operation. In Liuwa Plain, you’ll assist the AP capture team in monitoring and capturing herds. Stay in a purpose-built tented camp, meet park managers, and see the conservation process from the inside. Then, witness the dramatic release of translocated animals into one of Africa’s great wildernesses, Kafue. You’ll also enjoy immersive game drives, walking safaris, and serene nights at Ntemwa-Busanga Camp in Busanga Plains.
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
Lions have lost 75% of their population in 50 years. Pangolins remain the world’s most trafficked mammal. Fewer than 100 great tuskers roam the Earth. Your support on these campaigns helps conservation teams on the ground make a lasting impact. Learn more about our campaigns now.
WATCH: This powerful video, featuring HRH Prince William, reveals the courage, care, and hope driving the battle to save a species on the brink of extinction. Left orphaned and vulnerable after brutal poaching attacks, baby rhinos face a desperate fight for survival. But thanks to the fearless guardians at Kruger National Park and Care for Wild, these calves are given a second chance at life. Check out this snippet from BBC Earth’s Guardians. (10:32) Click here to watch
There are few wildlife encounters as profound or humbling as locking eyes with a mountain gorilla in its misty highland home while on an African safari. These great apes, one of four gorilla subspecies, share more than 98% of our DNA, and their human-like behaviour, deep social bonds and intelligent gaze create a powerful sense of connection. Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) live only in the cloud forests of the Virunga Massif and Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, in troops led by dominant silverbacks who mediate troop movements, resolve conflicts and protect their families. Watching them forage, play or care for their young in the wild is a privilege that leaves a lasting imprint on every traveller fortunate enough to witness it.
With fewer than 1,100 individuals remaining, mountain gorillas are classified as Endangered, their survival a hard-won conservation success built on community collaboration, veterinary care, research and tightly regulated tourism. Trekking to see these gentle giants has become the ultimate bucket list experience – a journey through emerald montane forests where mist clings to the canopy and every rustle might reveal a primate of extraordinary presence. It’s not just another wildlife sighting; it’s a soul-stirring communion with one of our planet’s most iconic species, making it a quintessential African safari and a testament to the power of sustainable, ethical travel.
“The thrill of trekking for mountain gorillas in the astonishingly beautiful misty highlands of East Africa is not difficult to explain. Quietly observing these gentle giants as they go about their day is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a privileged few, and to be treasured beyond compare. If you are lucky enough to exchange glances with one of the troop, you will become aware of that narrow genetic gap between our two great ape species. The exchange of recognition, of awareness, is apparent. This is not the heart-thumping primordial fear one experiences when a twitchy lion gives you the stare, or that adrenaline rush when that cantankerous old buffalo bull rises from the bluebush thicket and fixes you with his myopic glare. No, this is different. This is gentle to-and-fro communication at a spiritual level.”
~ Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic
‘Mark’, the dominant silverback of the Nyakagezi Group, takes some time out in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda
What’s in a name?
There are two gorilla species – the eastern gorilla (Gorilla beringei) and the western gorilla (Gorilla gorilla).
There are two subspecies of the eastern gorilla, namely the mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) and the eastern lowland/Grauer’s gorilla (Gorilla beringei graueri). There are two subspecies of the western gorilla, namely the western lowland gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla); and the Cross River gorilla (Gorilla gorilla diehli). Mountain gorillas, the focus of this article, are found in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).
Conservation status and distribution
The mountain gorilla population is estimated at 1,063 individuals, up from fewer than 900 individuals in 2010. This increase is primarily due to the cooperation from communities that live near mountain gorillas, NGOs that operate on the ground, and tourists, who pay in hard currency for the privilege of trekking to see mountain gorillas.
Mountain gorillas are found in two populations in Africa:
As a result of the above conservation successes, the mountain gorilla was reclassified in the IUCN Red List as ‘Endangered’ in 2018 (facing a very high risk of extinction), improved from its previous category of ‘Critically Endangered’ (facing an extremely high risk of extinction).
Major threats to mountain gorillas
Factors contributing negatively to mountain gorilla conservation status include poaching for bushmeat, the continuing political instability in parts of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), habitat loss/degradation, and the risk of disease transmission by humans, domestic animals and livestock. There is a distinct possibility that the subspecies could experience a 25% reduction in the next 20 years.
As of 2025, tourism in DRC’s Virunga National Park remains suspended due to ongoing armed conflict. Key access routes are closed, park staff have been evacuated, and gorilla trekking and other ecotourism activities have been halted in conflict zones.
Silverback in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Mountain gorilla habitat loss
The primary threat to mountain gorillas comes from forest clearance and degradation, as the region’s growing human population struggles to eke out a living. Conversion of land for agriculture and competition for limited natural resources, such as firewood, lead to varying degrees of deforestation. Also, the harvesting of charcoal, as a fuel source in cooking and heating, has also destroyed gorilla habitat.
The border between Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and community landIn the tea plantations alongside the tangled forest of Bwindi, a young gorilla contemplates the photographer
Diseases, immunity and survival
Gorillas are vulnerable to human diseases, and when coming into contact with humans, can pick up a variety of illnesses, from the common cold to Ebola, all of which can prove fatal.
Following the COVID‑19 pandemic, gorilla tourism protocols have been tightened to protect both humans and primates from disease transmission. Measures such as mask-wearing and increased distance rules have significantly reduced the incidence of respiratory illness in habituated gorilla groups.
As gorillas have not developed the necessary immunities, first-time exposure to an illness or virus that is relatively innocuous to humans may devastate an entire population. However, studies have found that mountain gorillas that are regularly habituated with researchers and tourists have survived better than unvisited gorillas; they benefit from the greater protection available in those areas and from regular monitoring. Increased survival is also largely due to better veterinary care of sick and injured gorillas.
Poaching and bouncing back
In recent years, there has been increased targeting of mountain gorillas for bushmeat and the pet trade. Gorillas can also be caught and harmed by snares set for other animals.
Fortunately, non-profit organisations such as Gorilla Doctors provide on-the-ground veterinary care to gorillas in their natural habitat, treating injuries from snares, fights, or other ailments. They also play a role in rescuing and rehabilitating orphaned gorillas. Their mandate is to monitor the populations of mountain and Grauer’s gorillas – the two subspecies that live in the Albertine Rift – and, when the life or well-being of an individual gorilla or family group is at stake, intervene.
Innovative community-based conservation projects also continue to thrive around gorilla habitats. Initiatives such as the rehabilitation and rewilding of orphaned gorillas are helping to support both wildlife and the local economy.
As a result, mountain gorilla conservation is one of Africa’s greatest wildlife success stories, with population numbers rising steadily thanks to decades of collaborative effort. This progress is the result of intensive monitoring, habitat protection, community-driven conservation, and carefully managed tourism that directly funds their protection.
A family portrait of the Rugendo mountain gorilla family in Virunga National Park
Moving mountains
Mountain gorillas live for 35–40 years in the wild, in troops with home ranges that vary from three to 15 km². They typically move only about 500 metres per day, due to the mountainous terrain and readily available food. Male mountain gorillas usually weigh 195kg with an upright standing height of 168cm. Females stand at 100kg and 140cm. They live primarily on the ground but will climb sturdy trees in pursuit of food.
Mountain gorilla troop dynamics
Mountain gorillas live in troops of up to 20 individuals, made up of one adult male who is usually older than 12 years (often called a ‘silverback’ because of the silver fur on his back), a few adult females and their offspring of various ages. Some troops will have more than one mature male, but only one leader/alpha male. The subordinate male (often called a ‘blackback’, and typically 8–12 years old) plays a backup role and will assume the leadership role if the silverback dies. Both males and females tend to emigrate from their natal groups, with females leaving at an earlier age than males.
The silverback is the troop leader, making all the decisions, mediating conflicts, determining the group’s movements between feeding and resting/sleeping sites, and taking responsibility for the troop’s safety and well-being. The bond that a silverback has with his females forms the core of gorilla social life. Females seek relationships with males for mating rights and for protection against predators (primarily leopards) and outside males (which may kill young gorillas). If a mother dies or leaves the group, the silverback will often look after her abandoned offspring. Experienced silverbacks are known to remove poachers’ snares from the hands or feet of their group members.
The dominant silverback mountain gorilla and one of his female companions attempt to relax in a clearing in the forests of Volcanoes National Park. Their peace is upended by a restless youngster, a tangle of limbs, nips, and mischief. He bites, pulls legs and arms, and tries to evoke playtime, to no avail. Giving up, he sits between his guardians for a sulk
Aggressive encounters between males and females in a troop are rare, but females can act aggressively towards each other (particularly if not related). Conflicts are most often resolved by threat displays intended to intimidate, including hooting, rising onto the legs, throwing of sticks and leaves, chest-beating, kicking with one leg, sideways running on all fours and thumping the ground with the palms.
Rival silverbacks from different troops have been known to kill each other during territorial battles, where they use their huge canines as effective weapons. When a silverback dies, his position in the group may be taken over by one of the younger group males, failing which a new silverback may join the group, often killing all of the infants of the dead silverback.
Mountain gorilla nests, food and reproduction
Mountain gorillas make nests on the ground for daytime resting and for sleeping at night. The nests are made of a loose pile of branches and leaves. Babies sleep with their mothers and start building their own nests when they are about three years old.
Mountain gorillas are vegetarians, eating leaves, stems, pith, and shoots, with fruit making up a small part of their diet. Protein in the form of insects and grubs makes up about 3% of the diet.
A young gorilla is distracted while eating in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
Mountain gorillas mate year-round, once they reach sexual maturity, which is at the age of 10 to 12 years for females and 11 to 13 years for males. The gestation period lasts 8.5 months, and females can give birth every four years.
Baby mountain gorillas are, like humans, vulnerable and dependent on their mothers for survival. Male gorillas are not active in caring for the young (unless the mother dies), but they do play a role in socialising them with other youngsters and protecting them from aggression within the group. Infants remain in contact with their mothers for the first five months, sleeping in the same nest and suckling at least once per hour during that time. After five months, infants begin to move away from their mothers, gradually gaining independence. By the third year, juveniles are weaned and sleeping in separate nests from their mothers.
Young gorilla baby and mom in Volcanoes National Park
Great communicators
Mountain gorillas use a variety of distinct vocalisations to communicate within their densely forested home. These include grunts and barks while travelling, screams and roars to signal alarm or warning, and rumbling belches of contentment during feeding and resting periods.
Tiny gorilla foot in Virunga
Want to see gorillas on your next African safari? Gorilla trekking has been described by many as a life-changing experience. Browse our top gorilla safaris here.
Gorilla trekking
Despite their size and strength, mountain gorillas are gentle, intelligent creatures whose lives revolve around complex social interactions, quiet routines, and deep familial bonds. Observing them in the wild reveals not only their physical grace but also their emotional depth, as well as how they nurture their young, resolve disputes, and express curiosity or contentment through subtle gestures. These moments of connection are what make gorilla trekking such an extraordinary experience: a rare opportunity to witness one of our closest living relatives living freely, on their own terms, in one of Earth’s last remaining montane rainforests.
The best and most practical places to go mountain gorilla trekking are in the dense, mountainous forests of Rwanda and Uganda. Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park offers the most accessible and luxurious experience, with well-maintained trails and high-end lodges, ideal for travellers short on time. Uganda provides a more immersive and adventurous option in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, while Mgahinga Gorilla National Park provides a quieter alternative with stunning scenery and fewer crowds.
For the truly intrepid, Virunga National Park in the DRC offers a raw and rugged trek (when open for trekking) – best check in with your safari expert before settling on a safari here. Each destination offers its own magic, whether it’s the ease and polish of Rwanda, the jungle depth of Uganda, or the edge-of-the-map thrill of the DRC.
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park
Final thoughts
There is an uncomfortable paradox unfolding in the mountain gorilla conservation space, which highlights the role that humans play on both sides of the equation. On the one hand, humans pose the greatest threat to gorillas, and, at the same time, humans represent the most viable conservation solution.
Mountain gorilla populations are now slowly trickling upwards, thanks to the dedicated work of so many passionate people on the ground – from locals who live amongst these gentle giants to government conservation agencies, researchers, non-profit entities and paying tourists. Let’s savour this rare victory in the ongoing war to keep Earth’s charismatic species, in fact, all species, safe from extinction.
A mother and baby mountain gorilla rest in Volcanoes National Park
To bring medical support to mountain gorillas, a group of veterinarians brave one of the world’s most dangerous national parks. Read more about Gorilla Doctors here
Mgahinga Gorilla NP, on the forested slopes of 3 extinct volcanoes in Virunga Conservation Area, is an important home to mountain gorillas. Read more about Mgahinga Gorilla NP here
Trekking through the ancient rainforests of Bwindi, Uganda to find mountain gorillas brings Ryan Biller face-to-face with a childhood dream. Read more about his journey walking with gorillas here
Virunga NP offers unparalleled biodiversity. Rain forests, gorillas, endemic birds, bubbling volcanoes, and safari favourites await. Learn about the wonders of Virunga
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity. Read more about Volcanoes here
Leopards are Africa’s most enigmatic big cats: silent, solitary, and vanishing fast. Behind their fading presence lies a thriving global industry built on prestige, profit, and skull measurements. According to a damning new report, The Leopard Hunters, the stealthy cat is now squarely in the crosshairs. Despite being listed as a Vulnerable species, leopards are still being legally hunted and exported in large numbers each year.
TheLeopard Hunters report, recently released by the Wildlife & Conservation Foundation and Ban Trophy Hunting, is a look into the global trophy hunting industry’s impact on Africa’s leopards. It reveals the identities of high-profile hunters and the companies that facilitate hunts. It also quantifies the international trade in leopard trophies, and exposes the often illegal methods used to hunt leopards. It also details how governments are enabling this trade, often without the data needed to justify it. Drawing on CITES trade data, industry records, and first-hand accounts, the report uncovers how the pursuit of hunting accolades, such as those awarded by Safari Club International, is accelerating the decline of leopard populations.
The report also explores the ecological consequences of selectively removing dominant animals from the wild. Ultimately, the report calls for a critical reassessment of the industry’s claims to conservation.
In 2023 alone, 709 leopard trophies were exported from Africa by international big game hunters – more than half of them to the United States. This, despite leopards being listed as ‘Vulnerable’ under CITES Appendix I: a conservation red flag that bans trade in these species except under exceptional circumstances. This means that the commercial trade in leopards is forbidden. Legal international trade is limited to hunting trophies and skins under export quotas for range states.
Including Canada and Mexico, North American hunters accounted for 403 trophies (57%). European hunters took home 199 leopard trophies (28%), with significant numbers going to Spain, Germany, France, and Hungary.
From predator to prize
Trophy hunting of leopards, as the report reveals, is a horror show. Tales abound of live duikers wired to trees to lure leopards after dark, wounded animals burned out of warthog burrows by igniting petrol poured into the burrows, wounded animals left to suffer for days at a time, and hunts with bows or handguns. The ethics are questionable; the methods grotesque.
The report details how the big cats are baited – often with zebras shot expressly for the purpose – and then shot from hides. They’re then entered into Safari Club International’s prestigious Record Book by measuring their skulls to the sixteenth of an inch. Hunters can win prizes for ‘Predators of the World’ or collect-them-all accolades such as ‘African 29’ (which requires a hunter to shoot at least 29 different African species to win an award).
Many of the most prominent hunts are arranged through commercial safari operators, some of which offer packages costing over $150,000, bundling leopard hunts with lions, elephants, and other species. At least 63 leopard hunts were on sale on BookYourHunt.com at the time of the report’s release.
A few images of leopard trophy hunts shared by hunting outfitters on social media
Big names killing leopards
The report names high-profile individuals involved in record-breaking kills, including a major donor to Donald Trump, a Spanish trophy hunter who has shot 167 leopards, and a former World Wildlife Fund US director. These and other hunters are celebrated within the Safari Club International (SCI), which incentivises the killing of large animals via a competitive points system and Record Book entries based on skull size. There are currently 2,071 leopards listed in SCI’s Record Book, representing documented kills by trophy hunters
Powerful lobbying organisations like SCI and Conservation Force continue to fight for hunting rights, even overturning trophy import bans in places like New Jersey. This raises concerns about the erosion of conservation policy under private influence.
The genetic price of glory
The bigger the skull, the bigger the brag. But scientists warn this has real consequences. The report criticises the ‘artificial selection’ pressure this creates: removing dominant males from the gene pool, which undermines leopard populations’ ability to adapt to environmental challenges. When the largest, healthiest males are selectively removed, the report suggests this weakens gene pools, reduces resilience to disease and climate change, and accelerates the decline of already vulnerable populations.
In the leopard’s case, numbers are estimated by the report authors to have plummeted by up to 90% over the past 50 years, from an estimated 700,000 in the 1960s to about 50,000 today. The report identifies trophy hunting as a significant driver of this collapse. Some African countries have introduced either permanent (Zambia) or temporary (South Africa) hunting moratoriums in response over the years.
Leopard numbers have plummeted by up to 90% over the past 50 years – from an estimated 700,000 in the 1960s to about 50,000 today, according to the report
Questionable leopard data
One of the most troubling realities is the paradox at the heart of leopard hunting quotas. Despite the leopard’s elusive nature and wide-ranging habitat, which make accurate population estimates notoriously difficult, hunting quotas for the species are often among the most aggressive of any big cat. In some countries, annual export allowances remain high, even as local populations decline. The report raises urgent questions about how these quotas are being set. Without robust, independent, and up-to-date scientific data on leopard numbers, how are governments justifying continued, and in some cases increasing, trophy allocations? The uncomfortable answer may lie in the lobbying influence of hunting organisations and the revenue streams they promise, rather than any defensible conservation science.
A tale of two leopards
And yet, there is hope. The report relays an important case study of a Maasai elder: Boniface Mpario. The veteran Maasai guide tells the story of Mrembo, a leopard he came to know well after spotting it often in the northern Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. The leopard was beloved by tourists, raised cubs under the gaze of telephoto lenses, and became a living asset to her community. One leopard, five daughters, multiple litters – and years of steady ecotourism income.
This is the critical fork in the conservation road: one path leads to dollars earned once from a bullet; the other, to years of revenue from wildlife tourism. One ends in a taxidermy mount, the other in more generations of leopards to come.
So, what now?
The Wildlife & Conservation Foundation has called for an immediate moratorium on leopard trophy hunting. But powerful lobbying groups like Conservation Force and Safari Club International continue to fight for their right to kill with high-calibre rifles.
The continued trophy hunting of leopards, despite mounting conservation concerns, represents a failure of both governance and global wildlife protection systems. It raises uncomfortable questions about whose interests are being served, and at what cost to biodiversity. Without urgent reform, transparent science-based quota systems, and stronger international safeguards, the leopard may join the growing list of species sacrificed for vanity and vague promises of conservation. The time for scrutiny and action is now.
Further reading
Can regulated trophy hunting support conservation in a modern reserve reliant on tourism and wildlife? We explore the case of Timbavati
Is hunting justifiable? Simon Espley explores the ethics & realities of hunting’s impact on conservation, biodiversity, & local communities. Read Simon’s op ed here
Leopards: These breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful & mysterious creatures are the top request on safari. Learn about them here
Leopards have unique voices. A groundbreaking study shows how researchers can identify these elusive cats by their distinct roars. Read more here
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Can chainsaws save rhinos? + Great Migration guide + Botswana safari thrills
Shifting Baselines is a scary reality that keeps me awake at night. It refers to how each generation accepts the ecological degradation of its lifetime as the new normal. Over time, we forget what the planet was like not that long ago. It is a quiet kind of erasure, an incoming tide, as our species spreads its exclusive-use strategy across Earth.
The term was coined by marine biologist Daniel Pauly in 1995 to describe how fisheries scientists would evaluate the current state of fisheries based on what they witnessed at the beginning of their careers, rather than the untouched, original state. The same could be said of how we treat the remaining equatorial forests, free-roaming lions and migrating birds (I could go on, but hopefully you get my point).
Nowhere is Shifting Baselines better illustrated than with Africa’s elephant populations. Scientists believe that there were as many as 20 million African elephants two centuries ago, 10 million in the 1930s, and approximately 400,000 today. And yet, many in the conservation industry call for the further reduction of elephant populations because there are ‘too many’. Scary indeed.
Your African safari arranged by Africa Geographic helps keep Africa’s wild spaces as they have always been – wild and biodiverse. Safari revenue funds our conservation publishing, and we donate a portion to specific needle-moving conservation projects at ground level. Thank you!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now, for the good news. It has been just over a week since seventy southern white rhinos touched down in Rwanda’s Akagera National Park in one of the largest cross-continental rhino translocations in history. In an awe-inspiring feat of conservation logistics, African Parks and the Rwanda Development Board orchestrated a 3,400km journey from South Africa to Rwanda – involving cranes, crates, trucks, and a Boeing 747. It’s all part of African Parks’ bold Rhino Rewild Initiative to return 2,000 rhino to safe, well-managed protected areas across Africa.
The rhinos began their journey with a stay in KwaZulu-Natal, acclimatising and building immunity to diseases before taking to the skies. After a carefully monitored journey, they’ve arrived in Akagera. They are being closely watched by a vet team to help them settle into their new home. This is a win for rhinos. And it’s a win for wild spaces, visionary conservationists, and the belief that bold ideas can reshape the future. Welcome home, rhinos. Rwanda looks good on you.
In more good rhino news, an excellent Greater Kruger case study shows that dehorning has reduced poaching by 78%. See below. Plus, we bring you the ultimate guide to the Great Migration – everything you need to know for planning your next safari.
Happy exploring!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic journeys through Africa:
Trip of a lifetime. “Extraordinary experience. Every detail was thoughtfully
arranged. I felt taken care of from start to finish. From the breathtaking wildlife to the incredible guides and accommodation, everything exceeded my expectations.” – Virginia, from the USA, travelled with us to Zimbabwe and Botswana
Couldn’t have asked for more! “AG safari expert Benjamin knocked it out of the park! We are the DIY type and have never used a travel agent before, so we were sceptical. Ben took the time to ask all the right questions and tweaked the plan based on our feedback until it was perfect (we didn’t make it easy on him!). The trip was all we dreamed of and more! I can’t recommend this company enough for a once-in-a-lifetime trip.” – David, from Germany, travelled with us to Greater Kruger and Zimbabwe
WATCH: Tsavo Trust is an action-oriented, field-based, Kenyan not-for-profit conservation organisation seeking to secure and protect the Tsavo Conservation Area in Kenya. This short video offers a snapshot of Tsavo Trust’s work on the ground – protecting wildlife, supporting communities, and safeguarding the iconic Tsavo ecosystem through aerial and ground operations, conservation partnerships, and sustainable development initiatives. (06:06) Click here to watch
The Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems see huge herds of wildebeest and zebras migrating in a continuous search for the best food and water. Although this journey follows a similar annual route, exact timing varies based on rainfall.
When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go. In spite of the big cats in waiting, or the rivers thick with crocodiles, they diligently follow their inner compass in a never-ending circular journey.
An epic river crossing of wildebeest takes place in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
The herds follow a clockwise migration through Tanzania’s Serengeti ecosystem. In February and March, they give birth on the nutrient-rich southern plains, including in and around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. From there, they move north through Serengeti National Park and the Maswa Game Reserve, with some splintering off into the Grumeti Reserves in April and May, while others continue through the Central Serengeti. By July, the herds converge in the Lamai region along the Mara River, straddling the Kenya-Tanzania border, where dramatic river crossings peak in August and taper off by the end of September or mid-October. Most of the herds do not fully cross into Kenya but linger along the river’s edge. In October, as southern rains begin, the herds start their return journey via the Central Serengeti and the Loliondo Game Controlled Area on the park’s eastern boundary. By December and January, they are back in the south, ready to begin the cycle again.
During the migration, about 250,000 wildebeest and 30,000 zebra die every year as a result of predation by carnivores, drowning, thirst, hunger, and exhaustion.
And following the herds is another migratory species – human safari die-hards, who revel in the drama and magic of this, the Greatest Show on Earth. This is no cookie-cutter African safari, as nature does not keep Swiss time, and even the well-documented river crossings are not predictable as to when and where. In fact, it’s the unpredictability that is the drawcard, and experienced travellers and guides know how to enjoy the many layers of bush life while waiting for the dramatic river crossings and predator action.
A hyena amidst the wildebeest action in Ngorongoro Crater
Follow the Great Wildebeest Migration
Rainfall drives the event, so tracking the herds is not an exact science, but the same general pattern plays out each year.
JANUARY:
Rains in the southern Serengeti plains bring nutrient-rich grass, beckoning the herds to the Ndutu area. If you want to find the wildebeest in January, Naabi Hill and Lobo are the places to look. Many females in the herd are heavily pregnant at this point, and moving towards greener grasses is of top priority. These fertile plains, formed by volcanic activity in the Ngorongoro region, produce short, mineral-rich grasses that thrive during the rainy season but dry up quickly when it ends. Their high nutritional value makes them especially attractive during calving season, when the herds instinctively seek out the best grazing to support their young.
A young wildebeest calf suckles from its mother in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. For more pics from Subi Sridharan, check out @subisridharan
FEBRUARY:
Every year, half a million wildebeest are born on the Serengeti plains, and February is the month with the highest birthing rate, sometimes seeing as many as 8,000 born each day.
The abundant new grass makes the area around Lake Masek and Lake Ndutu the ideal place for the wildebeest to give birth. The herd will stay put for a while in the southeast Ndutu area after the calves are born, before heading north in a clockwise direction.
Calving season means adorable wobbly babies finding their legs – a bonus for predators, who do not play nicely. If you want to see a wildebeest just hours old, your best chance is to go out at midday when they typically give birth, to allow the babies the time to gain strength before nightfall.
The Serengeti also boasts a particularly healthy lion population, with over 3,000 lions in the reserve. This is of considerable significance when you realise that these big cats are not faring as well across the African continent.
A newborn wildebeest calf
MARCH:
The mobile camps in the Serengeti provide an up-close and personal experience of the migration. You can find the herds in the Ndutu and Kusini Maswa region, in the southwest of the park. Having the babies in tow means they move a bit slower. And be prepared for some afternoon rainfall in March.
APRIL:
If you visit in April, you are going to need your rain jacket. The herds amble from the Ndutu region, past the Simba Kopjes, in the direction of Moru. The herds have now split into large groups, rather than the massive concentrations that stretch as far as the horizon. Simba Kopje is where the lions are, and it’s worth spending some time searching for lions. The wettest part of the day is the evening. The rainfall makes the plains slippery, and vehicles without 4×4 mode will struggle to go anywhere. While some wildebeest herds continue their march through the Central Serengeti, some head further west into Grumeti Reserve.
MAY:
For those wildlife photographers looking for action shots, set your sights on May in the Serengeti. The ‘long rains’ keep on going throughout the month. And as the calves get bigger and stronger, the distances the herd covers get longer. You’ll most likely find them between Moru and Makoma, moving north.
JUNE:
By June, the rains have abated somewhat, and the herds have spread out. The front-runners have already reached the Mbalageti River. But those bringing up the rear could still be as far back as the southernmost corner of the Simiti and Nyamuma Hills. The herds are now often in long lines as they head north.
JULY:
July is mating season in the Serengeti. You can find the herds in the Grumeti Reserve, in the west of the Serengeti, and moving past Fort Ikoma. Crossings of the Grumeti River are worth hanging around for, but this area is vast and relatively underdeveloped with lodges, so river crossings are harder to find.
Additionally, the Grumeti River lacks the volume of water that the Mara River possesses, and its crossings are not as spectacular. The herds graze their way northward as they move toward the Maasai Mara in Kenya. This is a transborder event.
Chaos reigns supreme at the dramatic river crossings
AUGUST: Come August, the herds have made their way up to the northern Serengeti and face their biggest challenge yet: the Mara River. The river flows through the Maasai Mara into the Serengeti. And while the gushing murky waters are captivating, they are also possibly responsible for the highest death toll en route, killing many thousands of wildebeest.
Sometimes the herds plunge en masse off steep banks in their desperate attempts to get across the river, or after being spooked by lions, and the fall alone will kill many individuals. Others drown as they are crushed by the sheer volume of panicking wildebeest trying to scramble up the equally steep banks on the other side. Every death means dinner for crocodiles, birds and fish – such is nature’s bounty.
Dust is kicked up as the wildebeest make their way across the Mara River in Kenya
And amidst the panic, the dust and the noise, the big cats and hyenas pick off the stragglers and the injured. Be warned that aside from the massive herds, the river crossings also attract large volumes of tourists, who congregate at strategic points to witness this spectacle.
There is no class system here, as privately guided wealthy couples in open Land Rovers jostle for the best views with budget backpackers crammed into minivans with pop-up roofs.
A water monitor sits on a dead wildebeest in the Mara River after a migration crossing in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
SEPTEMBER:
You can catch the tail end of the Mara River crossing or go see the herds out in the vast rolling grasslands of the Maasai Mara, where their numbers are like flies in places. Pack your hat, because the weather will be warm, sunny and dry.
OCTOBER:
Although Mara River crossings can stretch into October, usually this month ushers in a scene of casual grazing in the Maasai Mara. The push is over, and the fresh grass is the reward. For the survivors, that is.
Hyenas overwhelm a wildebeest in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
NOVEMBER:
What is known as ‘the short rains’ begins in November, triggering another move, as the herds leave Kenya and move south to western Loliondo and the Lobo area in Serengeti National Park. Whether it rains in November or not is nature’s call. But pack some extra jerseys for the cooler weather. At this point, the herds organise themselves into smaller family groups and get on with the serious business of grazing.
DECEMBER:
By December, the herds are back in the south of Serengeti and towards Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and the first act begins all over again.
A calm scene of grazing wildebeest in Ngorongoro Conservation Area
River Crossings
When people say they’ve come to see the Great Migration, they often mean they have come to see the river crossings. Watching the wildebeest hurl themselves into the water, one after the other, in a flurry of panic, sends a surge of adrenaline through the most seasoned bush-junkie. Watch this dramatic video of a Mara River crossing.
An unlucky wildebeest is targeted by a crocodile during a river crossing
The river crossings are the scenes we’ve all watched on Planet Earth – the chaotic clamber of wildebeests, zebras and a few antelope species across turbulent crocodile-infested waters. And then, of course, you have the lions waiting amongst the riverine shrubs to ambush unsuspecting victims. For those of us with limited time and rudimentary camera equipment, it can be challenging to capture the full impact of thundering hooves, the frantic urgency to get to the other side and the drama of predations. Sometimes, the best strategy is to put the camera down and watch and absorb the drama unfolding before you.
Avoiding the tourists
Avoiding tourists is somewhat of a sport in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, particularly during the peak safari season. If you are the tourist who skips the Eiffel Tower and seeks out that artisan cheese store in the back alleys of Paris, then perhaps give the Mara River crossings a miss, and opt for the vast herds visible in other areas during the green season.
Peak season crowds are a common sight at river crossing points
The rainy season, from late March to late May, offers up a less crowded Serengeti, as the herds move into the western part of the park. The mass of animals moving across the plains is captivating, but what you are really on the lookout for is a hunt. And the open plains give you prime viewing.
Moving away from the herds and following a pride of lions has its own bittersweet rewards. The predators face struggles of their own out on the plains: defending their territories, protecting their cubs, and nursing the battle wounds from a particularly hard hunt.
Just because it is the rainy season doesn’t mean it will rain. And if it does, it might not be a continual downpour. Again, the whims of the wild. As a bonus, catching the lodge off-season means less pricey accommodation.
Vast Serengeti plains dotted with wildebeest, and a cheetah surveying the scene
Avoiding tourists is more of a challenge in the Mara; the reserve is smaller and as soon as the herds arrive, so do the crowds. The trick here is to stay in one of the private conservancies bordering the reserve. They are close enough to make day trips to see the herds doable, and it means fewer crowds back at camp. These private conservancies can offer activities not permitted in the parks, such as night drives and bush walks.
Decide what you want to see the most: this will impact the timing and location of your visit. Broadly, the choices are river crossings, massive herds as far as the eye can see or calving. You will enjoy predator action at all times.
Choose your lodge carefully because easy access to the herds is vital. You don’t want to spend hours getting to and from the best locations, eating the dust behind a long line of other vehicles.
If you seek privacy and exclusive wildlife encounters during the migration, choose a lodge in one of the conservancies neighbouring the parks. Alternatively, consider visiting during the ‘secret season’.
A successful crossing
The Closing Curtain
If you think about it, the wildebeest is a rather understated animal, zoomed past on most safaris to get to something ‘more exciting’. It’s rather awesome that there is a show that puts them on the centre stage. And, with a bit of planning ahead, the front row seats are yours.
Wildebeest avoid an irate hippo, Maasai Mara National Reserve
Resources
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
Safari report-back: Simon Espley’s luxury Serengeti safari during the wildebeest migration brought drama, excitement, awe and wonder. Check out Simon’s report on Serengeti here
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro here
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
In the world of conservation, few animals carry the burden of celebrity quite like the rhino. The rhino is a walking target: its horn is falsely believed by a distant market to cure cancer and other ailments, and is also considered a status symbol in these markets. And despite decades of boots on the ground, drones in the sky, and millions of dollars spent on anti-poaching, the grim scoreboard of poaching keeps ticking up. But what if the best way to save a rhino is to cut off its horns? Is a chainsaw the most effective tool in saving rhinos? A new study on rhino dehorning suggests so
A team of scientists and conservationists from southern Africa has just delivered a jarring research report on rhino protection. By pooling expertise and data across multiple reserves, the report aimed to provide a clearer picture of how dehorning influences rhino behaviour, ecology, and conservation outcomes.
Their study, published in Science, lays it out in stark terms: Dehorning rhinos by surgically removing their horns – a painless procedure – was the only intervention that consistently reduced poaching across 11 major reserves in the Greater Kruger ecosystem (a stronghold that protects 27% of all of Africa’s rhinos). And the strategy proved dramatically effective.
A dehorned black rhino in Greater Kruger
The numbers game: guns, dogs, and dollars
Over a seven-year period (2017–2023), 1,985 rhinos were killed in the very areas that are supposed to be the last bastions of safety. That’s around 6.5% of the population annually – a slow bleed in the life expectancy of a species. This, according to the Kuiper et al study spearheaded by the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). To better understand the long-term impacts of dehorning on rhinos, GKEPF established a collaborative research project involving reserve managers, field rangers, and scientists from the University of Cape Town, Nelson Mandela University, Stellenbosch University, and the University of Oxford. This multi-institutional effort was further supported by key conservation bodies, including South African National Parks (SANParks), WWF South Africa, and the Rhino Recovery Fund.
The project was initially conceived by those working on the frontlines of rhino conservation and was driven by Sharon Haussmann, CEO of GKEPF, who tragically died less than a week before the study results were published (leaving the researchers to dedicate this project to her).
Recognising the need to assess the effectiveness of their significant investments in anti-poaching tools, such as tracking dogs and AI-enabled surveillance, GKEPF set out to evaluate whether these interventions were truly making an impact.
To combat rhino poaching, reserves poured roughly US$74 million into traditional antipoaching tactics: ranger teams, canine units, fences, infrared cameras, and even polygraph tests (5,562 of them). This resulted in over 700 poacher arrests. Unfortunately, this high-tech, high-cost effort showed no clear statistical effect on reducing poaching (although one could argue that, without these interventions, numbers could’ve soared even more).
Teams on the ground are up against a giant: organised criminal syndicates move faster than the justice system. Arrested poachers walk free. And insiders often leak information, for example, through the advance notice of patrol movements. High-risk poaching remains prevalent, driven by “horn demand, wealth inequality, embedded criminal syndicates, and corruption,” says the study. In this world of wildlife crime, enforcement is a leaky bucket. So, what actually worked?
A recently dehorned white rhino and calf
The rhino in the room
Enter rhino dehorning: a blunt, counterintuitive solution. By removing the primary motivation for the kill – the horn – experts are dramatically reducing the reward for the crime.
Across the eight reserves that implemented rhino dehorning (dehorning 2,284 rhinos in total), poaching plummeted by an average of 78%. The data showed it wasn’t just a correlation; it was a causal, abrupt change. Rhino killings didn’t slowly decline: they dropped off immediately after the horns were removed. No other intervention came close.
Even at the level of individual rhinos, the difference was staggering: horned individuals had a 13% chance of being poached annually, compared to just 0.6% for their dehorned counterparts. On average, dehorning all rhinos on a reserve reduced poaching by ~75% from pre-dehorning levels.
Significantly, the cost of this intervention weighed in at a low US$570 per rhino operation to conduct the dehorning, less than 2% of the total antipoaching budget. In a world of limited conservation funding, lower-cost solutions are imperative.
Dehorning all rhinos on a reserve reduced poaching by ~75% from pre-dehorning levels
The fine print on rhino dehorning: not a silver bullet
Of course, rhino dehorning is not without caveats. Rhino horns regrow, meaning dehorning must be repeated every 18 months. In some areas – particularly Kruger National Park – even dehorned rhinos were still poached. In total, 111 dehorned rhinos were still poached during the study period (107 of these were poached in Kruger NP between 2022–2023). This is because up to 15cm of horn remains after the procedure, as veterinarians must leave a protective layer to avoid damaging the sensitive growth plate at the base of the horn. Even a stub of horn holds black-market value, and Kruger National Park’s porous border with Mozambique offers easy syndicate access. Furthermore, only between 50–55% of rhinos in Kruger National Park are dehorned.
Moreover, there’s the philosophical and ecological question: What does it mean to keep a rhino hornless? So far, research suggests little negative impact on survival, but the long-term consequences, particularly behavioural ones, are still murky. One study suggested that dehorning black rhinos significantly reduces their home range size and weakens social interactions, especially between males. These behavioural changes could have long-term hidden impacts on reproduction, territory use, and population dynamics.
Another consideration is that, as evidence suggests, dehorning rhinos in one area may simply shift poaching pressure to regions where rhinos remain horned, as seen in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in 2022, South Africa’s second-largest rhino stronghold. However, in 2024, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi embarked on a major dehorning operation which also saw a reduction in rhino poaching.
A dehorning operation in Greater Kruger
Rethinking the war on rhino poaching
While this study suggests more effective impacts from rhino dehorning, it doesn’t argue against traditional interventions, but rather calls for a multi-pronged approach. Ranger patrols, tracking dogs, community support, and aerial surveillance still matter, particularly as a backup plan. But if the goal is to stop poaching before the bullet is fired, then removing horns might work better than pursuing transgressors.
And perhaps that’s the real takeaway: conservation is messy. It’s not always romantic. Sometimes, it involves a chainsaw. But if the trade-off is between a hornless rhino and no rhino at all, then the choice becomes heartbreakingly simple.
Want to go on a rhino-seeking safari? Browse our top safaris showcasing the Big 5. Or longing to visit Kruger? Check out our ready-made safaris to Greater Kruger. Alternatively, we’ll help you plan your tailor-made rhino safari.
We have a winner! The Winners’ Gallery for Photographer of the Year 2025 is now live. Check it out below
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And the winner is…
After months of breathtaking entries and inspired storytelling, our Photographer of the Year 2025 journey has come to a close. From 6,738 submissions, 349 extraordinary images were chosen and featured in 23 galleries – each a window into authentic Africa.
This year’s winners will join us on an exclusive AG safari to Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville, where they’ll see critically endangered western lowland gorillas and explore one of Africa’s most pristine rainforests.
Congratulations to our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner, runners-up and highly commended finalists, whose images moved us deeply. We applaud you all for your exceptional skill and captures. For those who didn’t make it through, know that we didn’t reach this selection easily – this boiled down to weeks of deliberation and more than a few sleepless nights.
Thank you to our incredible community of photographers – you’ve once again captured the soul of Africa. Check out the gallery below.
For those adventurers among you gripped with wanderlust and keen to head out to experience the best of Africa, check out our 5 incredible safari ideas below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Embark on a rainforest adventure into the heart of Odzala-Kokoua NP. Encounter western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos & flocks of grey parrots in a truly remote African wilderness.
Pamper yourself with a luxury safari to the Makgadikgadi Pans, northern Okavango Delta & Moremi. Revel in lavishly appointed lodges, creature comforts, helicopter flights, superb cuisine & epic wildlife sightings
This safari makes a difference at ground level. Enjoy spectacular wildlife viewing, go on bush walks, visit a rhino conservation project, & help keep Hwange’s vital waterholes full, while visiting secluded lodges.
Safari to Kenya’s 3 most iconic destinations. Big 5 encounters, the Great Wildebeest Migration, huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli & the ‘Samburu Special 5’. This safari is packed with daily activities, including for kids
Explore the predator-rich areas of Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti in Chobe, & Khwai in search of wild dogs. The Painted Dog Conservation Centre, game drives, helicopter flips & a trip to Victoria Falls await
And the winner is… After many months of jaw-dropping submissions, endless deliberation, and animated debate, we are proud to announce the winners of Photographer of the Year 2025.
This year, a theme emerged as if directed by nature itself – motion. Whether it was a lanner falcon swooping through a cloud of startled finches, a spoonbill shaking off water droplets during a bath, the quiet gaze of a gorilla following the flight of a butterfly, or a leopard shaking off a summer rainstorm, our photographers captured fleeting moments of action frozen in time.
Thank you to our generous partners for this year’s competition, Ukuri and African Parks, for supporting this celebration of Africa. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy an Africa Geographic safari exploring the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here.
A note from our CEO
What a thrilling ride this year’s competition has been!
Each photograph told a story not just of wildlife, but of momentum – the visceral energy of survival, the grace of instinct, the surprise of interaction. We saw a red-headed finch escape by mere inches, a gorilla mesmerised by a butterfly, and predators in moments of power and pause.
We are reminded again that wild moments are not staged. They happen in an instant – and then they’re gone. Our photographers, with grit, patience and skill, managed to catch these rare slices of time.
Artificial Intelligence is now part of the post-processing toolkit, yes – but let’s be clear: we do not accept AI-generated imagery. What we celebrate here is real Africa, captured by real people, in real time.
To all who entered, thank you. Your images show what is possible when passion meets purpose. In a world of digital illusions, your photographs are a testament to authenticity, dedication, and love for our wild continent.
Christina’s photograph is a masterclass in simplicity and timing. A crystal-clear leopard mid-shake, scattering a halo of water droplets, is framed by the sinuous lines of the tree. Captured in the middle of a rainstorm, the image balances chaos and calm with grace. The composition is beautifully controlled – the leopard’s one open, focused eye draws the viewer inward, anchoring the swirling spray and lending the photo a rare intimacy. The colour palette – rich greens and browns, golden fur, flashes of white water – reflects the storm-soaked bushveld in high contrast. The chosen angle, directly in the eyeline of the leopard, places the viewer in quiet proximity. This is not only a perfectly timed shot but a deeply evocative one. Every element – light, form, motion and mood – works in harmony to create a photograph that is both technically exceptional and emotionally resonant. A truly stunning image.
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Christina says: “We spotted the leopard sleeping in a tree and decided to wait. After a long period of suspense, with my finger on the camera’s shutter release, the leopard suddenly lifted its head and shook the water from its wet fur. Within seconds, the still life turned into an explosion of water droplets, in the middle of which the alert eye of the big cat seemed to be looking directly into my camera aperture. The picture was taken on one of my first safaris, which sparked my passion for wildlife photography. I only realised later what a rare moment I was able to capture with this photo. Even today, after numerous wonderful photo trips to various African countries, this moment is still one of my photography highlights. My thanks go to my fantastic guides, Bernhard and Hennie.”
About photographer Christina Schwenck
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina is a clinical psychologist. In her spare time, she explores wild corners of Africa with a camera in hand. Her travels have taken her to South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda. Wildlife photography is her mindfulness – a meditative exercise in patience, observation, and reverence for the natural world.
Frozen in time, this image is pure adrenaline. The lanner falcon’s laser focus, the blur of escaping finches, the proximity of near-capture – it all culminates in a jaw-dropping display of nature’s fine margins. Ernest’s technical daring (that razor-thin depth of field!) paid off magnificently.
The lanner falcon is suspended mid-air in perfect profile, its wings slicing the frame with predatory intent. The falcon is etched in crisp detail – from the subtle curves of its wing coverts to the fine stippling around the eye. The red-headed finch, moments from capture, twists just out of reach, its escape rendered in a blur. The scattering flock, each bird flaring off in a different direction, adds a burst of chaos to the composition – a dynamic counterpoint to the falcon’s frozen form. It’s an image of pure tension and elegant violence – a cinematic moment distilled into a single frame.
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Ernest says: “The moment I saw my first lanner falcon hunt in Kgalagadi back in January 2017, I was captivated. The sheer speed of the strike ignited a photographic quest: to capture that precise instant a falcon intercepts its prey in mid-air. Seven years, and thousands of attempts later, I finally achieved a photo I’m truly proud of. This photo was taken in December 2024 during a five-day holiday at Polentswa Campsite in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. The dry conditions at Polentswa attracted abundant birdlife to the waterhole, creating prime hunting opportunities for juvenile lanner falcons. I committed several hours each morning and afternoon to photograph their aerial pursuits.
Using a Canon R6MK II and a Canon EF 400mm f2.8 MK II lens, I opted for a high-risk, high-reward strategy. By setting the aperture to f2.8, I leveraged the full-frame sensor to achieve an exceptionally shallow depth of field, creating that striking background blur that isolates the subjects. While many would have played it safe with a larger aperture, this choice was crucial to the success of the photograph. What truly makes this photo for me is the raw intensity in the lanner falcon’s expression as the red-headed finch, by a mere whisker, dodges a bitter fate and escapes the falcon’s deadly talons.”
About photographer Ernest Porter
A professional wildlife photographer and guide from Johannesburg, Ernest’s passion for wildlife began during childhood visits to Kruger. Fresh out of high school in 2010, he sacrificed three electric guitars and an amplifier for his first starter-bundle camera. Thereafter, he spent years honing his skills at Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, photographing the resident Verraux’s “eagles.”
His first visit to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in 2017 was love at first sight; he’s returned countless times since. A multiple Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year finalist, he now leads photo safaris and inspires others to find awe in the African wild.
The gorilla’s gaze is fixed, entranced, as an orange butterfly – the same hue as its eyes – flits into frame. The moody forest lighting forms a delicate canvas for this flash of colour. A breathtaking image of curiosity and stillness.
What makes this image truly extraordinary is its emotional and visual symmetry. The gorilla, momentarily transfixed, halts all movement to observe the delicate flutter of the butterfly – a reaction so human in its wonder that it bridges the perceived divide between species. The matching amber tones of the gorilla’s eyes and the butterfly’s wings form a visual echo that ties subject to subject in quiet reverence. Bold in colour, rich in mood, and timeless in emotional impact.
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Mary says: “It was a day defined by quiet connections. Beneath the lush canopy of Bwindi, I observed a young female gorilla gently nestled against the protective bulk of a silverback. The atmosphere was serene, filled with gentle sounds of the forest, until a sudden burst of delicate color broke through the calm. An unexpected visitor, a vibrant butterfly, appeared out of nowhere, fluttering gently through the air. Captivated, the young gorilla’s eyes widened, and in that moment, a beautiful interaction unfolded as a silent, shared wonder between two vastly different beings. I held my breath, hoping the butterfly would drift ever closer. The butterfly danced gracefully around the gorilla. This photograph captures not just the gorilla’s gentle curiosity but also a brief, beautiful moment where two creatures paused, noticing each other, bound by wonder and discovery.”
About photographer Mary Schrader
Based in San Diego, California, Mary’s roots in theatrical design and visual storytelling give her wildlife photography a narrative depth. Mary has photographed wildlife across the globe, from Africa’s golden plains to the icy stillness of the Arctic. But it’s the quiet moments – glances, gestures, pauses – that captivate her. Mary’s work honours the untamed and tells stories of connection. When not in the field, she’s home editing photos with coffee and a cat by her side.
This image captures an extraordinary moment of raw power and timing. The composition is tight and theatrical – one warthog lunging low, the other bracing mid-charge, their eyes locked in fierce intent. The suspended dust, side-lit by warm bush light, adds dramatic texture and depth. A rare action shot. Warthog behaviour is seldom captured with such clarity and tension. The elongated tusks of both males are striking, underscoring the danger and grit of this encounter. One warthog, caught mid-lunge, seems to be sliding through a cloud of earth, while the other holds his ground with legs anchored and head poised, preparing to absorb the assault. Their glaring eyes are intently focused on their opponents. The contrast between the motion-blurred dust and the razor-sharp rendering of the warthogs adds a cinematic quality to the scene. The lighting is particularly remarkable: a pocket of golden bushveld glow illuminates the fighters, carving them out against an otherwise gloomy sky. A bold and immersive image that stands out for its action, light, and visceral composition.
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Alex says: “These warthogs were very large and very powerful – and fighting for prime territory around a waterhole in the dry season. The fight went on and on, neither combatant wanting to give in, and, as they seemed well matched, it was as much a battle of wills as of strength. Neither wanted to concede. They drifted further and further away until, finally, one gave up and ran off, still pursued by the victor. I think I was as exhausted, due to the excitement of the spectacle, as they were.”
About photographer Alex Appleby
A computer programmer from Norfolk, UK, Alex is enthralled by the rawness of wildlife photography. Africa, with its unparalleled diversity, draws her back again and again. Her images seek to reflect behaviour, essence, and the emotion of action. Alex views photography as a way to strip away worries and focus on the now.”
A sublime study in focus and restraint. The detail in the lion’s eye – its glassy reflection, the mirrored sky, the curve of lashes – is mesmerising. The shallow focus isolates that unforgettable gaze, and the golden fur is rendered with exquisite sharpness – every strand visible and warmly lit. Exceptional control of light and composition. The lion’s iris, captured in such crisp detail, resembles a celestial sphere – a planetary disc orbiting a pupil, with soft cloud forms and light reflections creating an almost cosmic depth. A closer look reveals a tick, and a fly, beneath the eye, tiny intrusions into this otherwise serene moment, reminding us of the reality of life in the bushveld.
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Benjamin says: “Lions are so widely photographed that it’s often difficult to get a unique image of one. I’d been trying to take a unique image of a lion for a long time, when the perfect opportunity presented itself. Whilst out on a drive, we were lucky enough to find a pride of lions sleeping in the grass. This large male lion stood up and walked so close to our game drive vehicle, that I had to stop down to f10 to get the whole eye in focus. I wanted to capture the reflection in its eye to have a ‘lion’s-eye view’. I was very pleased to come away with this capture.”
About photographer Benjamin Loon
At only 18 years old, Benjamin is already creating standout wildlife imagery. Raised in a small bushveld town in South Africa, he transitioned from macro to wildlife photography and spends every free moment in the field. His work aims to draw attention to moments in nature that too often go unnoticed – and his talent ensures we won’t miss them.
A photograph of sculptural power and patience. The low light, and rich tones of mud, blood, and marsh create a striking scene. Compositionally, the figures are central and rising – the lion, all sinew and claws, the buffalo, braced and bewildered – captured with clarity under fading light.
This image unfolds like a myth – the lion and buffalo appear to erupt from the earth itself, their forms fused in motion and tension. The lion, slick with marsh mud, clings to the buffalo’s back, expression focused. The buffalo’s bloodied snout and heaving form anchor the frame, resistance in the face of conflict. The lion’s decision to go it alone after hours of failed attempts adds another layer of narrative weight to the image: a story of solitude, persistence, and instinct-driven determination. This is poetry in motion – primal, powerful, and unforgettable.
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Eric says: “We spotted a group of five lions in the marsh, a little way off from us. Their behaviour was unusual, going back and forth into the water in between rests on drier ground. We realised they were trying to chase a buffalo to a more favourable location for hunting, while the buffalo was determined to stay sheltered in the marsh. The lions were exhausted after hours of struggling in the muddy terrain. Occasionally, they would all but disappear into the mud. After three hours, there was no change in the situation, and shooting conditions deteriorated as we began to lose light. We were about to head back to camp, when we saw a determined lion heading towards the buffalo. After a slow progression into the marsh, the lion was no longer visible. But suddenly, he jumped onto the buffalo’s back.
Thanks to my 600mm f/4L lens, I was able to properly focus to shoot a series of images. At 7pm, the light had already disappeared, and I was shooting at high ISO and low speed. After a struggle, the buffalo eventually moved out of the marsh with the lion on its back. At that point, the delegation of lions brought him down.”
About photographer Eric Coiffier
Eric studied biology and has always been interested in nature and ecology. He spent years photographing landscapes and street scenes in black and white before turning to wildlife. Now a globe-trotting nature photographer, he’s especially drawn to polar regions and Africa. His approach pairs scientific curiosity with artistic minimalism – capturing emotion and motion in stark natural frames.
A perfect storm of mood and movement. Hannes’ signature skill in using desert dust as atmosphere is evident here – the hazy silhouettes of thorn trees, the grainy sky, and the faint ghost of heat. The composition leans into narrative – the male’s surprise, the female’s defiance, both isolated by the natural vignette of swirling sand.
This is a visual standoff forged in grit and tension. The lioness stands firm in the foreground, her body coiled in a growl, daring the larger male to close the gap. He appears momentarily taken aback – leaning slightly, his ears pinned, caught between aggression and caution. The confrontation is quietly explosive, and it’s this restraint that makes the image so powerful. The earthy light, filtered through the storm, lends a whimsical tone to the entire scene, like pigment brushed across canvas.
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Hannes says: “The male’s powerful presence commanded the surrounding territory, and no other lion dared to approach, knowing well that his dominance keeps all rivals at bay. The air was thick with tension as the lioness made her stance clear. Yet, the male remained close, unwilling to relinquish control.
About photographer Hannes Lochner
An iconic name in African wildlife photography, Hannes is a multi-award-winning professional wildlife photographer. Hannes is known for his long stints in the Kalahari and his striking use of light and motion. Hannes has produced five magnificent photographic collections, three of which were dedicated entirely to the Kalahari. To achieve this, he lived in the Kalahari for six years, where he spent hundreds of hours capturing inspiring images of this captivating landscape and its enigmatic inhabitants.
Hannes is extraordinarily talented at image composition and the interplay of various light conditions. His pictures show the essence of the landscape and its animals while telling their stories. His passion for art ensures that his pictures stand out from the work of conventional wildlife photographers. His skills enable him to produce work that attracts great attention continuously. Hannes is also passionate about passing on his knowledge.
He has earned international accolades, and his work reflects deep observation, patience, and a storytelling instinct honed in the wild.
An iconic subject captured with refined perspective. Jordan’s use of vertical space and compositional scale showcases Boswell’s acrobatics while emphasising the immense sweep of the Zambezi Valley. The soft golden light, and placement of Boswell’s frame dwarfed beneath the mashatu tree, root this scene in dry-season elegance. A timeless portrait of a legend. This is not just a photograph of a well-known elephant. It is a celebration of behavioural wonder, of ecological context, and of the delicate balance between strength and poise.
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Jordan says: “Boswell is without a doubt the biggest celebrity in Mana Pools, a big bull elephant who stands on his hind legs to reach nutritious green leaves, particularly in the dry season. Whilst he is not the only elephant to display this behaviour in the Zambezi Valley, he’s known for his gentle nature around both humans and herds of elephants, at times using his special technique to pull down branches, allowing them to feed when food within their reach is scarce.
We were told that Boswell hadn’t been seen for six days – then he walked straight through camp. As he passed us, we hopped into the vehicle and followed him before getting out and continuing on foot, where we watched as he stood up no less than six times as the sun was setting! Sometimes the wild just surprises you with the most magical moments imaginable, and it’s a case of being at the right place at the right time.”
About photographer Jordan Fry
A childhood fascination with nature documentaries turned into a photographic journey across Africa. Jordan has always been captivated by African wildlife, ranging from mega to microfauna and how they all contribute their own important role within an ecosystem. Originally from the UK, Jordan trained as a guide in South Africa and has returned to the continent frequently since. His images aim to capture raw beauty and ignite deeper conversations about conservation and connection.
A study in camouflage and contrast. Marcio’s image draws the eye with its painterly palette – burnt rust, ochres, and pale desert light – echoed flawlessly in the chameleon’s colour shift. The balance between natural form and human artefact offers a layered composition rich in texture, visual rhythm, and ecological commentary. The chameleon’s textured skin mirrors the mottled rust of the corroded metal pipe it’s climbing, down to the subtle flecks of red and orange. Compositionally, the frame is minimal yet impactful. The arid landscape offers little distraction, allowing the viewer to focus on the fine interplay of colour, light, and form.
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Marcio says: “This photo was taken on a windy morning in the Namib Desert. The chameleon found brief shelter beside a rusty can, and I was struck by how its changing colours mimicked the corroded metal. Estimates suggest that an aluminium can take 200 to 500 years to decompose in the environment.”
About photographer Marcio Lisa
Brazilian photographer Marcio Lisa fell in love with Africa during a 2012 National Geographic assignment. With over 40 trips to the continent behind him, visiting 13 countries, his work focuses on visual storytelling rooted in conservation. His eye for detail and pattern brings a signature aesthetic to even the harshest environments.
A stark reminder of life and death. What makes this image exceptional is its duality. On one level, it is a straightforward portrayal of a kill – raw, wild and essential. But Marina’s composition elevates the moment to something more reflective. The serene look on the dik-dik’s face, the three cheetahs clutching together and sharing their prize, the quiet symmetry of their position – all contribute to a composition of haunting beauty. This is a triumph for the young cheetahs, a moment of instinct realised, but the story is told with restraint and poetry rather than brutality. The choice of black and white removes the distraction of blood and colour, allowing the viewer to focus on form. A difficult scene to photograph, and harder still to portray with such empathy and visual grace. A remarkable piece of storytelling.
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Marina says: “Three young cheetah brothers, caught in a moment of instinct and learning, hold a dik-dik in their jaws. Despite the tension, there’s poetry in the prey’s face, a quiet contrast to the intensity of the hunters.”
About photographer Marina Cano
Marina Cano is a Spanish wildlife photographer with over 25 years of experience, including two decades dedicated to nature photography. Her evocative, intimate style has earned her international acclaim, including features on the cover of National Geographic and multiple photography awards.
A Canon Europe, Banana Republic Wildlife, and Skylum Global Ambassador, Marina was named Doctor Honoris Causa in Bogotá in 2023 for her contributions to conservation through photography. She has published four wildlife books, served on international photography juries, and represented Spain in the World Photographic Cup for three years.
A graceful composition of scale and serenity. The elephant’s wrapped trunk adds dynamic shape to the otherwise still scene, while the muted layers of mountain and cloud give a soft grandeur. The road leading toward Kilimanjaro draws the eye, inviting us into the frame. Iconic, timeless, and evocative. The bull elephant, in musth and well-weathered, pauses to test the air, his trunk coiled in a fluid, almost sculptural knot. That gesture, full of purpose and grace, injects a sense of motion into the still, muted palette.
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Nili says: “It was mid-morning in Amboseli National Park, and the snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro was wrapped in clouds. Herds of elephants began their march into the park, heading for the Ol Tukai swamps to feed on the soft reeds and get relief from the sweltering heat. A few bull elephants had come into musth after the severe drought. This bull was one of them, trailing the herds. One herd had just crossed the road in front of us, and this bull was following right behind them. Just before he crossed the road, he stopped on the edge, smelling the air. That is the moment I captured this iconic image of an elephant bull and Mount Kilimanjaro. Two of Africa’s icons.”
About photographer Nili Gudhka
Kenyan-born and raised, Nili traded a corporate career for a life among the wild. Today, this wildlife photographer now spends her days tracking leopards, studying elephants, and planning safaris. Her photography is rooted in deep love for her homeland and a desire to show Africa’s raw, majestic truth.
Aerial storytelling at its finest. Roan’s composition distills strategy into still-life – the trough a frame within the frame, the hartebeest oblivious, casting long shadows as they march. The parched terrain speaks volumes, and the high angle insight. A tactical image full of tension and anticipation. From above, we see the dusty, cracked expanse of Tsavo East laid bare: no water, no foliage, no movement save that of the hartebeest. The composition is simple, yet rich with narrative. The aerial perspective transforms the scene into a tactical diagram, a blueprint of ambush. The casual, unaware posture of the hartebeest trio adds to the building tension — we know what they don’t. It’s a rare and privileged view into predator-prey dynamics, framed with discipline and a documentarian’s eye.
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Roan says: “This shot was taken during a routine anti-poaching patrol from my fixed-wing aircraft. Flying low and slow, I get to see some pretty incredible sights, which I capture by flying with my knees while shooting out of the window. Below me, a lioness was tucked deep into a dry water trough, barely visible, waiting in ambush. In the distance, a herd of hartebeest marched steadily toward the waterhole. I’d seen her try and fail with zebras earlier on. As the herd approached, she launched from the trough in a cloud of dust, closing the gap in seconds, only to miss her final pounce by a fraction.”
About photographer Roan Carr-Hartley
A conservationist, pilot, and field operator with the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Roan spends his days flying across East Africa in support of wildlife protection. He spends his days flying over remote wilderness, tracking poachers, rescuing injured animals, and supporting teams on the ground. Photography has become his way of recording the remarkable – and often heart-pounding – encounters he experiences from the air and ground.
A display of motion captured with grace and clarity. The monochrome treatment elevates the image, making each droplet shimmer against the dark water and background. The spoonbill’s pose – wings part-lifted, feathers radiant – is frozen at just the right second to reveal its quiet splendour. Spoonbills are often overlooked in the avian spotlight, their beauty subtle and behaviour reserved. But here, Tania has transformed a fleeting, everyday movement – a bird shaking off water – into something ethereal and unforgettable. The photo captures the spoonbill mid-rinse, wings delicately lifted, droplets arcing in crystalline clarity around its body. Every feather glows under a shaft of light that carves through the darkness, creating a sublime contrast between illuminated plumage and the murky water below.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Tania says: “I wanted to highlight the elegance and raw energy of the moment – the droplets, the pose, the contrast. The spoonbill was mid-bath. I knew this shot had to be in monochrome to enhance its mood and drama.”
About photographer Tania Cholwich
Tania is a South African wildlife photographer with a passion for storytelling through motion. Africa runs in her veins, and wildlife is central to her work. With a strong conservation ethic and artistic eye, she captures raw, authentic and action-filled moments that inspire deeper connection with the wild.
A moody, intimate portrait of one of Africa’s rarest giants. The shallow depth of field and soft directional light bring out every crease and flake of mud on the elephant’s skin. The central eye contact – sharp and yellow-green – pierces the forest gloom, grounding the image in emotional intensity. A masterfully composed close encounter. The forest elephant, often elusive and rarely photographed this clearly, emerges from the darkness like a spectre: its skin slick with mud. The splash of pale earth on its trunk adds contrast and narrative, suggesting a recent rub against moss-covered trees, an interaction with its rainforest world. It stares directly into the lens, confrontational and vulnerable. The image’s dark edit is a bold creative choice that heightens the contrast between form and texture. That this scene was captured in Gabon’s Loango National Park, a place of profound biodiversity but relatively few wildlife photographs, makes it even more powerful.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Turgay says: “Forest elephants are perceived as much more aggressive than their savannah cousins, especially outside their forest homes, where they are downright hostile. I experienced their hostility first-hand in Gabon. In the fading daylight, I had been busy photographing another local species, the rosy bee-eater, when I noticed some forest elephants venturing out of the forest to graze. They soon went back into the forest. Assuming that the sighting was over, I started to pack away my camera gear when one of them charged out of the forest and headed directly to our vehicle. My driver was justifiably concerned and started to whisk us away as quickly as possible. I was seated in the back row and managed to take a few shots with the only camera I had, and with no chance to adjust my settings. Suddenly, the elephant decided its message had been received, abandoned the mock charge, and turned around and trotted back into the safety of its forest home. This image is what I saw from the back of the vehicle.”
About photographer Turgay Uzer
Turgay began dabbling in film photography at a young age. A retired physics professor turned globetrotting wildlife photographer, Turgay’s passion spans the African savannah to the icy wilds of South Georgia. His favourite travel destinations are Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and Brazil’s Pantanal, among others. A multiple photography award winner, his work seeks out rare species and moments of quiet drama. With a deep knowledge of animal behaviour, he captures their world with reverence and clarity.
A deeply emotive and technically challenging portrait. The bars, the gaze, the glow in the cheetah’s just-woken eyes – all speak to the tension between captivity and freedom. Composed from a crouch at eye level, Wiki’s framing draws the viewer into the cheetah’s perspective. A visual metaphor for the fragility and hope of rewilding. That raw, flickering gaze, filled with disorientation, light, and instinct, holds the viewer in place. There’s no distraction here – just soft light, shallow depth, and one powerful stare. There is tenderness here, and gravity. The subdued colour palette and diffused light add to the intimacy.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Wiki says: “This cheetah – Edie – had just opened her eyes after sedation. She’s the first captive-born cheetah from Australia to be rewilded in Africa. After treatment, she was released back into the wild, contributing valuable new genetics to South Africa’s cheetah population. I wanted to capture the very moment she came back to awareness, marking her return to the wild after weeks of rehab.”
About photographer Wiki West
Wiki is a conservation photographer and storyteller who left her data analytics career to work full-time on wildlife initiatives across Africa. She’s collaborated with the Wildlife Emergency Fund, African Parks, and other NGOs to document collarings, rescues, and rewildings. Her work is immersive, emotional, and grounded in deep research and trust.
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Trophy hunting in Madikwe? + understanding Okavango + wild dog safari
Safaris don’t happen on Instagram
The bull elephant stood meters from us, his posture oozing curiosity and perhaps a degree of uncertainty. We were silent, relaxed and absorbed in the moment. This was inter-species communication via sentience and body language. I was doing bush time with Lizz and two close friends, all experienced in the ways of observation and enjoying each moment for what it is.
My photo (above) has attracted a few suggestions that we were ‘too close’ and ‘reckless’, etc. The de rigueur keyboard reaction to a single image that seldom captures the true essence of the experience – the Instagram safari. You will better understand the moment in our video below.
Earlier, we were trundling along a dusty winter morning bush track in an old Landy when we spotted a herd of frisky bulls jostling a hundred meters away. We switched off and watched the spectacle. One of the ellies broke off and headed our way, the others moving off to our right, still messing about. Our bull approached in that jaunty way they have, the shuffle-run that covers ground quickly, his head bobbing and trunk swinging. Yet his last few meters were all about cautious curiosity before he settled down next to us. His bright, observant eyes took us all in, scanning our vehicle and watching our every move. After several minutes of safari nirvana, he gave us a wonderful ear-clap and we respected the message by heading off.
The best safari moments happen in between photos – those moments of learning and wonderment. For our safari guests already out there, or about to head out, safari njema, good people!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
City life is bulking up the locals – and we’re not just talking about gym bros. Did you know that some dwarf chameleons living in cities are growing bigger than their wilderness counterparts? Research reveals that African dwarf chameleons living in urban environments are not only surviving – they’re thriving. Compared to their countryside cousins, city slickers of the Bradypodion genus are longer, heavier, and in better shape overall.
Factors like abundant food, fewer predators, and a lesser need for climbing trees could be behind this growth spurt in the city dwellers. However, other studies have noted higher competition between males in other dwarf chameleon species in urban areas. Either way, it’s a fascinating peek into how some reptiles are adapting fast to our concrete jungles. So next time you spot a Bradypodion in the suburbs – that little dude might just be living his best life.
This week we share the news that trophy hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – according to a tender invitation from the North West Parks and Tourism Board. See the story below. Plus, we also share our comprehensive guide to understanding the Okavango Delta.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
The Okavango Delta is an enormous watery oasis, home to an astonishing variety of wildlife and host to some of the best Botswana safaris
Story 2
HUNTING NORTH WEST
Trophy hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – per a tender from NW Parks & Tourism Board
TRAVEL DESK:
2 SAFARI IDEAS
Southern Africa wild dog safari – 14 days – from US$13,735pps
This unforgettable 14-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to all the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti and Khwai, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives, mokoro excursions and canoe trips – all in search of painted wolves.
Botswana salt pans expedition – 6 days – from US$6,743pps
Find your soul on this journey to Makgadikgadi Pans – including a quadbike trip to the fabled Kubu Island. An iconic exploration of the vast Botswana salt pans – coupled with game drives in grassy plains and brush packed with a surprising amount of wildlife. Meet meerkats, sleep under ancient baobabs and a gazillion stars, and enjoy luxury tented accommodation and delicious meals.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Another 5-star review for teamAG! Seasoned AG safari guest Roger enjoyed an unforgettable Greater Kruger and Kalahari safari:
“South Africa May 2025. After last year’s visit to Timbavati Nature Reserve and Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, I was keen to repeat the experience as these two places always deliver great viewing and their staff are excellent.
Whilst in Timbavati, I heard about the white lions in Ngala, the reserve adjoining the Timbavati. I asked AG expert Christian to put together a trip including the three destinations above. The first stop was Tanda Tula, and as usual, the game viewing was excellent. Great sightings of a rhino and calf, lions bringing down a buffalo, leopards, and a first sighting of an African harrier hawk attempting to break into a hornbill nest in a tree trunk, to name a few.
Next stop was Ngala, and we saw two white lions: a female and a one-year-old cub. The final stop was Tswalu. During my visit last year, we spent a lot of time with the wild dogs but didn’t see them make a successful hunt. The priority this time was to see them hunt to conclusion. The guide made sure this was fulfilled. We saw three takedowns. Other great sightings included a black rhino with two equally long horns, caracal, aardvark, and brown hyena. Tswalu certainly delivered on this visit. I can’t wait to return.
All the connecting flights, transfers, etc. went without a hitch.
Yet another incredible experience organised by Christian. I’m looking forward to our next trip!”
WATCH: Perhaps you have always wanted to see the Big 5 with your family, trek for mountain gorillas, or watch the drama of the Serengeti great migration, followed by sand-in-your-toes time on a white sandy beach? Or maybe you seek absolute wilderness, where it’s just you and your thoughts. Africa Geographic makes these dreams come true for you. Ask Africa Geographic to plan your next African safari. (01:06) Click here to watch
Trophy hunting may soon return to Madikwe Game Reserve and Pilanesberg National Park* – targeting elephant, buffalo and black rhino in Madikwe, and elephant and buffalo in Pilanesberg. This, according to the bid proposal document for a tender invitation released by the North West Parks and Tourism Board (NWPTB) in May.
In the original tender documentation, NWPTB invited proposals from professional hunters, outfitters, and culling teams to hunt wildlife in 14 provincial reserves during the 2025/2026 financial year. The tender proposal guidelines suggested that all hunting activities must be completed by 30 September 2025. In addition to Madikwe and Pilanesberg, other North West provincial reserves such as S.A. Lombard Nature Reserve and Molopo Nature Reserve were also included in the document. Three categories of game removal – including trophy hunting, biltong hunting and culling were cited for different reserves. Various species were included in different categories, including Cape buffalo, wildebeest, blesbok and zebra.
Among the most controversial allocations that were published in the tender documents for trophy hunting are:
25 elephant, 2 black rhino, and 10 buffalo in Madikwe
10 elephant and 5 buffalo in Pilanesberg
The inclusion of black rhino, a critically endangered species, has especially shocked onlookers. With over 30 photographic tourism lodges in Madikwe alone, there is growing anxiety that the latest developments could inflict reputational damage and jeopardise conservation and tourism investment.
A black rhino in Madikwe
Stakeholder meetings are ongoing this week in Madikwe and Pilanesberg to discuss the tenders. The NWPTB has committed to improved communication, but the clock is ticking, with the original tender submission process deadline set for 10 June. There are also whisperings of the tender being altered or pulled since the outcry, but this could not be confirmed.**
Some stakeholders – including lodge owners, tourism investors and conservationists – claim they were not informed of the tender invitation before it was issued. Many are concerned about a lack of transparency in the initiation of the hunting tender, suggesting that the rushed nature of the process is likely motivated by a desperate need for rapid fundraising.
“It’s deeply concerning that tourism partners have been excluded from decision-making, especially given their long-standing investment in anti-poaching and wildlife management,” said one tourism stakeholder who asked to remain anonymous.
The original tender invitation advertisement published in May
Government’s position
Despite the backlash, the North West provincial government insists the move is both necessary and legally sound. According to Member of the Executive Council, Bitsa Lenkopane, the decision reflects a broader strategy to balance ecological realities, economic needs, and community interests. Lenkopane heads up the North West Department of Economic Development, Environment, Conservation and Tourism (DEDECT).
“We are in the space of bringing balance,” Lenkopane told Africa Geographic. “Balance in this case is about those in business, landowners, and those who are managing the land.”
Lenkopane emphasised that communities around Madikwe and Pilanesberg – such as the Bakgatla-ba-Kgafela and other traditional authorities – have increasing say over land use, and the government’s role is to facilitate their needs and guide conservation efforts.
Cape buffalo in Madikwe would also be hunting targets
The inclusion of rhino and elephant in the tender
Lenkopane would not comment on the tender specifically, but when asked about the possible hunting of black rhino, she suggested, “We have the legislation as a province. We also understand the position of CITES [Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora] and some measures that are in place regarding the quota of rhinos. I am satisfied about the application of the law in the whole space.”
Lenkopane also cited the province’s burgeoning populations of elephant as a central concern, especially in Madikwe. “The management of [elephants’] ratio to the land which they are occupying must not result in extinction and endangering of other species,” she said.
The hunting tender document explicitly refers to the proposed hunting activities as a form of “game reduction”.
Both Madikwe and Pilanesberg are fenced reserves, with Madikwe encompassing 75,000 hectares and Pilanesberg 50,000 hectares.
Population management in Madikwe
Madikwe does face a conundrum, with its reported 1,600 elephants far exceeding the optimal population size of 500 elephants cited in Madikwe’s 2022/2023 Elephant Management Plan. The plan notes the upper carrying capacity limit for elephants in Madikwe is 1,000. But the report clearly states that “culling is not a preferred option… and is considered a last resort.” Furthermore, selective hunting in Madikwe of adult bulls is only permitted under “exceptional circumstances”. The report goes on to claim that “trophy hunting is not efficient at population control – it is more tied to economics and problem animal control.”
In December last year, media coverage decried an increasingly dire situation in Madikwe, where elephants were allegedly dying of starvation due to overgrazing and drought. At the time, the NSPCA entered the reserve to investigate and humanely euthanise suffering elephants. Reports estimated 80 of Madikwe’s elephants had died from starvation due to drought and overgrazing since August 2024. NWPTB ecologist Pieter Nel noted that the drought and uncontrolled growth of the elephant population were the main drivers of deaths in Madikwe. “Having too many elephants in a reserve harms the entire ecosystem,” Nel told The Mail and Guardian at the time. “I think Madikwe has shown what can happen if you pass that threshold.”
Elephants trek over dusty ground in Madikwe
Piet Nel’s words foreshadowed the current proposal, saying the reserve drastically needed to reduce its elephant numbers to bring it back to a situation where the system can properly recover. Nel said there had previously been a conscious decision to use non-lethal methods of managing the elephant population, but “we have to admit it didn’t yield the desired results… Now, we will have to look at other ways, including lethal options.”
For now, the MEC insists, the government’s focus remains clear: “We want to develop communities. We want to protect our animals. We want to balance the ecosystem.”
Lenkopane also confirmed that an elephant management task team, composed of ecologists, academic representatives from universities, and government entities, has been established and is feeding into the provincial strategy. “We’ve got universities involved because we want them to guide us on the recent developments,” she said.
But the ecologists and tourism stakeholders consulted by AG also questioned whether the findings of this task team have fed into the tender decision, stating that the research is still ongoing in the reserve and the resolution to hunt is thus premature.
When asked about how age, sex, and tusk size determinations will be made around elephant trophy hunting targets in Madikwe and Pilanesberg, Lenkopane declined to comment on the details of the procurement process, citing tender protocols. Lenkopane said these details will be worked out by “the universities and experts”.
An added challenge for Madikwe is the restrictions on population management of black rhino and buffalo populations, which are non-translocatable due to the presence of Bovine Tuberculosis (bTB) in the reserve. “Consumptive use,” Madikwe’s Elephant Management Plan notes, may be allowed where legislation permits – but only where other options have failed.
Hunting organisations
Regarding stakeholder sentiment around the possibility of trophy hunting taking place in North West reserves, Lenkopane says, “People are excited – I must say – but there’s a lot of consultation and public comments. Some refused to come, but some came. We’ve had about two to three rounds. They were all consulted.”
The province’s long-standing relationships with hunting bodies is no secret. “We have relationships with different organisations like Phasa [Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa],” notes Lenkopane. “We take them seriously and we also view their issues as seriously as we view the issues of communities.”
In January 2025, Lenkopane attended the Dallas Safari Club Annual Convention and Sporting Expo – arguably one of the largest annual gatherings of hunters in the USA. Lenkopane stated her visit aimed to “attract foreign investment in order to revitalise the North West Province’s protected areas network and enhance contribution to South Africa’s biodiversity economy.” The North West government asserted at the time it was working closely with Phasa and the Custodians of Professional Hunting and Conservation South Africa to resolve “concerns regarding export quota processes”.
Parks with hunting pasts
Big Five hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg was phased out in the mid-2000s following resistance from tourism operators and international guests. A former provincial official confirmed that earlier hunting models led to tourist cancellations, reduced wildlife sightings, and long-term reputational damage. “Guests also complained about reduced sightings and all these led to the Board discontinuing hunting in both reserves,” said the former official.
Current developments have stakeholders questioning if zoning and logistical issues were properly evaluated in the tender process, such as the placement of hunting camps, potential conflict between tourists and hunters, and the enforcement of rules and standard operating procedures to manage this overlap.
“With such a density of photographic tourism infrastructure, it’s almost impossible to conduct hunts without impacting guests – whether through gunshots, carcass disposal, or road closures,” added ecologist Roger Collinson, who has worked extensively in Madikwe and Pilanesberg. “Is the potential short-term financial gain from trophy hunting worth the likely long-term loss in tourism income, brand damage, and broader socio-economic benefits?” says Collinson.
Critics warn that the long-term costs of reintroducing trophy hunting may far outweigh short-term financial gains. “If even a few international tour operators or agents pull out over this, the economic fallout for tourism in Madikwe could far exceed any income from a handful of hunts,” said one tourism investor.
Will elephants be targets of trophy hunting in Madikwe?
The eyes of the world
With reputations, ecosystems, and endangered species on the line, the outcome of this decision could echo far beyond the borders of Madikwe and Pilanesberg.
As the June 10th deadline for tender submissions approaches, the debate over trophy hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg has laid bare deep tensions. Whether this initiative serves as a practical response to ecological strain or a short-sighted bid for revenue, its outcomes will have lasting implications – not only for wildlife and the tourism economy in the North West Province, but also for how South Africa is perceived on the global conservation stage.
*Pilanesberg National Park, despite its name, is not an official South African national park, as it falls under the jurisdiction of the North West provincial government. Its status as a reserve in a former independent homeland earned it the name “National Park”, but its management does not fall under SANParks or the National Protected Areas Act.
**Update 5 June: An altered version of the tender bid documents published on the North West Tourism Facebook page did not mention trophy hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg.
The Okavango Delta emanates in the highlands of Angola, where the mighty Okavango River begins as just a trickle before gradually becoming the third largest river in southern Africa that flows for over 1,600km to reach inland Botswana. Around 60,000 years ago, the river deposited water into Lake Makgadikgadi, a paleolake believed to have covered over 100,000km² of Botswana’s interior. At a time when we were just dragging ourselves into the Later Stone Age, most of southern Africa was rattled by severe seismic activity that created a tectonic trough. The earthquake (or earthquakes) must have come as something of a shock to the residents of the area, but also happened to change the shape of the earth’s crust to block the Okavango’s original path almost entirely.
The river water had nowhere to go and poured relentlessly into the Kalahari Desert, creating the endorheic basin of the Okavango Delta – one of the largest inland deltas in the world. Today, the Okavango River continues to discharge around 11km³ of water every year into the swamps that spread across an area of 6,000km²–15,000km² (depending on the time of the year). One of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Okavango Delta – including Moremi Game Reserve in its centre and Khwai on the eastern fringes – is an enormous oasis home to a wide variety of wildlife, and its tourist value contributes around 13% of Botswana’s GDP.
The herd navigates the waters
An alluvial fan
The Okavango River flows into Botswana at the small village of Mohembo before fanning out into a combination of twisting channels and lagoons lined by thick beds of papyrus and reeds along the Delta floodplains, initially through a comparatively narrow area known as the Panhandle. The swamplands of the Okavango are permanently flooded, but the bog surrounding them fills seasonally, depending on water levels. The Delta layout is somewhat dynamic. While the water may follow different routes depending upon changing sandbanks and blockages, the Delta waters will fill up main channels, then secondary channels, and eventually overflow and saturate floodplains. Forces of scouring, sediment deposition, animal activity, and vegetation blockages (and over a more extended time period, formation of tree islands) cause channels to become wetter or progressively drier. So some areas get wetter over time, and some get drier. The wetter areas may spill over into irregularly flooded areas, or even flood woodlands during high floods.
Furthermore, the tectonic trough responsible for the formation of the basin of the Delta is relatively flat. Still, there are many islands of various sizes (the largest being Chief’s Island) and salt islands with barren white centres that are too saline for plant growth.
The waterways around these islands are one of the Okavango’s biggest drawcards, and many tourist lodges overlook some of the more extensive permanent lagoons of the region. Visitors flow to the Delta yearly to explore its watery surrounds either by motorboat or on the famous and more traditional mokoro (or mekoro, plural). This canoe-like vessel allows visitors to immerse themselves (ideally not literally) in nature as they drift through the reeds. The location of each lodge will determine what activities they can offer guests at certain times of the year.
The Okavango Delta is home to a significant population of lions
A seasonal sensation
A fundamental difference exists between Okavango’s “wet/rainy season” and the “flood season”. As described, the Okavango River’s source is in Angola, an area with a far higher average annual rainfall than Botswana. The rains in Angola are at their highest in January. Still, the increase in water levels takes months before it reaches the Delta itself, making an exploration of the Delta a seasonally variable experience. Typically, the floodwaters reach the head of the Delta around May, but the progress of the water through the dense swamps is slow, and the highest water levels are seen in June/July. The rains in Botswana are also seasonal, and, bearing in mind that nature can be highly unpredictable, the wet season begins around November. It ends around March, as the temperatures start to drop.
Exceptional sightings abound in the Delta
January: Right in the middle of the rainy season, as the foliage is at its thickest, January is not necessarily the best time of year for wildlife viewing, but the scenery is probably at its most spectacular, emphasised by dramatic afternoon thunderstorms. The Delta is also crowd-free during this time of year. The migrant bird species have all recovered from their respective travels, and most are in full breeding display mode.
A young leopard is unphased by the drenching rains
February: As in January, the Delta is verdant, lush and pulsates with life in February. The days can still be blisteringly hot, and the thunderstorms persist, making driving conditions difficult. Despite the wet conditions, the actual water levels of the Delta may still be too low for specific water activities in certain areas. February is also still a relatively quiet time in terms of other travellers, so you’ll have the plains all to yourself.
March: The days tend to become drier as March progresses, and the first winter chill can be felt in the evenings towards the end of the month. While there is still a risk of very heavy rains, the Delta is beautiful in March, the migrant birds are bulking up in preparation for their return journey, and, importantly, it is still low season, so many camps and lodges offer special rates. As grasses are relatively high during this time, it’s essential to have an excellent guide to navigate the area.
Up close and personal to an elephant, viewed from a mokoro
April: Though the temperatures of the nights can drop rapidly, the daytime April temperatures tend to be pleasant and warm (still hot on some days). The antelope species explode into rutting season, and the dry floodplains are dominated by fighting impala rams that have spent the rainy season preparing for this crucial moment. If the rains start early in Angola, the water levels might rise in April, and there is a feeling of electric energy in the air before the dry season begins.
May: The hot days without rain begin to dry out the surrounding seasonal waterholes in the areas around Chobe and Linyanti, while the floodwaters from upstream start to flow into the northern edges of the Delta. As a result, elephants and other plains wildlife are drawn to the Delta, and thus, the spectacular wildlife sightings of the Okavango dry season begin. As the water levels rise, water activities such as motorboating become possible throughout the region.
June: The coldest nights are recorded in June, with temperatures dropping to around 2˚C each night, but the days are pleasantly mild, especially for those not accustomed to southern African heat. June is also denning season for the region’s painted wolf (African wild dog) packs, which often results in more frequent sightings, and the thinning vegetation improves the quality of all sightings. June marks the beginning of the high season, and Okavango Delta safaris at this time should be planned well in advance.
Familiar sights in the Delta: painted reed frog (left) and water lilies (right)
July: July marks the height of the flood, and water levels have risen throughout the region, becoming essential for the area’s wildlife as the dry season takes hold. As rains have ceased, the vegetation begins to turn brown; trees lose their leaves, and the days are dusty. As vegetation dwindles, animals struggle to conceal themselves, and wildlife viewing enters its most productive phase.
August: The wildlife viewing in August in the Delta is extraordinary as animals tend to congregate along the edges of waterways in search of food. The days are just warming up, and the water levels remain relatively high, so land- and water-based activities are possible throughout the region. For birders, herons, storks, and egrets arrive in their hundreds to build their nests in the lagoons.
September: The temperatures begin to rise dramatically in September, and the Okavango Delta is the only source of food and water for all wildlife in the region. The water levels start to recede, and the only greenery is close to the waterways, making September one of the best months for wildlife sightings.
Wading through the waters: a lion (left) and red lechwe (right) explore the Delta
October: October is one of the hottest months in the Okavango. Without the relief of afternoon thunderstorms, daytime temperatures regularly peak over 40˚C . The almost non-existent vegetation makes it easy to spot predators and is never far from the channels, making them the highlight of an Okavango Delta safari in October. The flood levels have dropped considerably, and, depending on the area, some water activities may no longer be possible.
November: The arrival of the rainy season also sees the arrival of tsessebe, lechwe and impala calves. The predators have no sympathy for the vulnerability or innocence of these youngsters and take full advantage of the situation against the backdrop of the first thunderstorms of the season.
December: As the second wettest month of the year, there is always the possibility of being rained out, but the wildlife viewing remains good, and it is an exceptional experience to watch the bush rejuvenate with the relief of the rains. The water levels are low across the Delta, so this is not the best time of year for those interested in water activities, apart from some of the more central and northern lodges that have access to deeper water for most of the year.
Elephants on a leisurely delta trek
Year-round delights
While it is undoubtedly true that the peak safari season of June to October offers the best wildlife sightings, the Okavango is always an exceptionally wildlife-rich wilderness area that offers unique attractions year-round. The low-density tourism model adopted by the Botswanan authorities means that most safari experiences in the Delta are through luxury camps and lodges, many of which have exclusive access to private concessions. This, in turn, means that the revenue necessary to conserve a key wilderness area can be maintained with minimal impact on the area itself.
Burchell’s zebras cross the waters of Moremi Game Reserve, in the Delta
The Okavango’s wildlife sightings are extraordinary, offering anything from the Big 5 to enormous herds of red lechwe plunging through the shallow floodplains, secretive sitatunga, wild dogs, two hyena species and massive herds of buffalo and elephants drawn to the only permanent water during the dry season. The Okavango is a birder’s paradise and every year a variety of bird species nest side by side at enormous heronries – herons, storks, darters, egrets (including slaty egrets) and occasionally even pink-backed pelicans all using the same trees or matted reed-beds to breed.
As expected, the water canals are also home to many fish species, including tilapia, tigerfish, and catfish, and ‘catch-and-release’ fishing is permitted along the Panhandle. Some camps in the Delta offer fishing with seasonal restrictions. Decreasing water levels at the end of the flood season also result in the annual catfish run, where thousands of African sharptooth catfish swim back up the channels, hunting and being hunted as they go.
No trip to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro ride down lush waterways
The Okavango Delta offers diverse accommodations and travel options to suit various preferences and budgets, from luxurious lodges, which provide exclusive safari experiences with elegant tented rooms and private pools, to more affordable camps, emphasising closeness to nature over opulence. For those seeking adventure, mobile camping safaris offer a unique way to explore the Delta, with options ranging from budget-friendly setups where guests assist with camp duties to more luxurious versions with full staff support.
The natural fauna and flora of the Okavango Delta have adapted to an ever-changing ecosystem
Travelling to the Okavango Delta typically involves flying into Maun International Airport, followed by a short charter flight to your chosen lodge or camp.
Africa’s Eden
The combined natural beauty and ecological importance of the Okavango Delta has gained several affectionate nicknames, from the ‘Jewel of the Kalahari’ to ‘the Louvre of the Desert’ and ‘Africa’s Last Eden’. The Okavango Delta is a natural phenomenon created by a unique combination of geographic, climatic and biological conditions where the natural fauna and flora have adapted to an ever-changing ecosystem. For visitors to Botswana’s iconic wilderness, this means a chance to explore an almost untouched, pristine wetland system where Africa’s wild dramas have played out mostly unchanged for the past 60,000 years.
Check out this fantastic gallery of images by Hannes Lochner, which will have you booking your Okavango Delta (Botswana) safari with us and packing your bags
Moremi Game Reserve lies at the heart of the Okavango Delta and is the only formally protected section of the Delta. Read more about Moremi here
That word ‘luxury’ is so subjective and often alienating. It has been hijacked by purveyors of excess and opulence, and speaks of chunky watches and fast cars shoved into conversations and social media posts. And yet, an evolved version of luxury goes to the core of the tailor-made experiential safaris that we craft at Africa Geographic, in addition to our conservation media and donations. Hold my sundowner G&T, and let me explain.
With us the renaissance of ‘luxury with purpose’ transcends opulence and embraces meaning. Luxury safaris should no longer be defined by crystal glass chandeliers or rimflow pools but by soulful connection, exclusivity of experience, and purposeful impact.
Our safari guests crave stories, authenticity, and the reassurance that their journey is contributing to something greater. Holidays that transform. Of course, some fortunate travellers can afford a higher price tag than others, but that is the way of the world. Our focus at teamAG is to persuade our guests to employ their comparative wealth in the pursuit of changing lives on both sides of the travel experience.
As the world reawakens to the value of wild spaces, choose responsible safaris that honour the land and its people. Help us redefine luxury – not as excess but as experience, intention, and legacy.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Ever wondered why elephants are so… wrinkly? Turns out those creases are more than just good looks. Elephant wrinkles – especially on their trunks – aren’t random folds, but functional features that aid in gripping, shape-shifting, and even reveal a kind of “trunkedness”. Yes, elephants, like humans, show left- or right-handed preferences when grabbing things.
Scientists have studied various elephants, from unborn calves to zoo-dwelling pachyderms, to understand their glorious folds, and found that these wrinkles begin developing in the womb and deepen with age. Think of it as nature’s way of building better tools. Proof, once again, that evolution doesn’t waste a wrinkle.
We will soon be announcing the WINNERS of Photographer of the Year 2025… And what a journey it’s been! But, we have chosen the FINALISTS, and this week we share two galleries filled with our entrants’ epic photos.
Plus we share the magic of West Coast National Park: from wildflowers to whales, ancient footprints and epic birding.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 2 spaces left.
Experience the best of Mana Pools – inland and floodplains – with safari expert and photographic guide, Villiers Steyn. This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking incredible wildlife action. Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe offers raw and surreal photographic opportunities. SADC rates available. Only 1 space left! (Check out the video at the bottom of this newsletter to see what’s in store for your Villiers Steyn safari)
YOUR SAFARI JUST HELPED SAVE AFRICA’S VULTURES
We’ve got incredible news to share – you made a real difference.
Thanks to your safari booking with Africa Geographic, we’ve proudly donated US$5,000 to the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme in response to a heartbreaking mass vulture poisoning incident just weeks ago. This emergency support helped fund rapid rescue missions and rehabilitation efforts that prevented a potential crisis in southern Africa.
When you travel with AG, you do more than explore Africa’s wild places – you help protect them. A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like this one. Because of your decision, Africa’s vultures are getting a second chance.
Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
WATCH: A photographic safari in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, offers an extremely wild, untamed experience. Villiers Steyn headed up an Africa Geographic photographic safari to Chitake Springs, Mana Pools, and here’s how it went down. You too can join Villiers on a photo safari to Mana Pools – see the safari details above. (09:23) Click here to watch
West Coast National Park brings to mind aquamarine waters and a sun-kissed coastline – accompanied by wildflowers, whales, ancient footprints and flamingos. But there’s more to West Coast National Park than meets the eye. Just 90 minutes from Cape Town, this coastal gem offers seasonal spectacles, fascinating history, and an incredible diversity of life. Whether you’re a birder, beachcomber, or history buff, adventure awaits.
Stretching along the rugged coastline of South Africa’s Western Cape, West Coast NP is a kaleidoscope of natural and cultural wonders. From the clear waters of Langebaan Lagoon and the annual eruption of wildflowers to ancient human footprints and over 250 bird species, this park is a treasure trove. More than just a summer escape, it offers immersive experiences within a richly diverse ecosystem, no matter the season.
Wildflowers in West Coast NP’s Postberg section
One of South Africa’s 21 national parks, West Coast NP spans over 47,000 hectares, including contractual areas and offshore islands inaccessible to the public – Marcus, Malgas, Schaapen and Jutten Islands. These offshore sanctuaries provide critical nesting areas for several red-listed seabird species, including the Cape gannet. The park also encompasses five Marine Protected Areas along its Atlantic coastline: Malgas, Jutten and Marcus Islands, the Langebaan Lagoon, and Sixteen Mile Beach.
Cape gannets on Malgas Island
Langebaan Lagoon, the park’s most striking feature, is a shimmering expanse of turquoise that draws a diversity of birdlife and plays a vital conservation role. The surrounding salt marshes are unique, as no river feeds the lagoon. These marshes account for approximately 32% of South Africa’s entire salt marsh habitat – a crucial ecological asset. The lagoon supports thriving populations of crustaceans, molluscs, and marine algae, and also serves as a nursery for juvenile fish.
While summer is a great time to visit, winter leading into spring reveals a very different kind of magic. It may not be ideal for sunbathing unless you’re brave, but the landscape dons a different outfit. In August and September, visitors can witness the annual wildflowers, transforming the landscape into a vibrant tapestry of colour and new life. The park’s Postberg section, renowned for its breathtaking carpets of wildflowers, opens exclusively during these months.
A sea of flowers appears in August and September
The importance of the park stretches beyond its natural beauty: West Coast NP also holds immense historical and paleontological significance. The park and its surroundings are a treasure trove of paleontological wonders, boasting many Pliocene and Pleistocene fossil beds found just 10km north of the park, offering a glimpse into the distant past. One of the most remarkable discoveries within the park’s boundaries is the fossil imprints of ancient human footprints, found in Kraalbaai in 1995. Dubbed Eve’s Footprint, the print is estimated to be a staggering 117,000 years old, providing a tangible link to our ancestral past. Visitors can view a replica of the print at the Geelbek Information Centre, while the original print is housed in Iziko’s South African Museum in Cape Town.
While most travellers visit for the park’s history and lagoon, there are significant wildlife populations in the park worth seeking out. Bontebok, springbok, eland, Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest, Cape grysbok, and more roam the park’s varied habitats. Look out for caracal and rock hyrax, as well as carnivorous residents like the honey badger, Cape fox, yellow mongoose, small grey mongoose, and water mongoose, among others.
Eland amidst the wildflowersBontebok in the coastal dunes
Birding in West Coast NP
It may be hard to believe, but this single destination hosts over a quarter of South Africa’s recorded bird species. With over 250 species documented, the West Coast National Park is a birding haven. Thanks to the mix of ocean, fynbos, and the globally significant Langebaan Lagoon – a Ramsar Site – bird diversity is exceptionally high. Species such as the curlew sandpiper, sanderling, and red knot migrate up to 15,000km from Russia to breed here. With four bird hides to choose from, you’re spoiled for birdwatching opportunities.
Flamingos gathering on the shores of Langebaan Lagoon
The Langebaan Lagoon is a hotspot for observing migratory wader species, especially in summer. In September and March, you can witness these long-distance travellers in various stages of breeding plumage as they arrive or prepare to leave. The Geelbek Hide is the best vantage point for wader viewing, where the rising tide brings the birds closer for spectacular sightings. The park’s diverse fynbos habitat also boasts a wealth of resident bird species, from the southern black korhaan to the vibrant bokmakierie, Cape penduline tit and even species like African marsh and black harrier, making it a true haven for avian enthusiasts.
Geelbek Hide
The coastal islands at the lagoon mouth offer the perfect breeding habitat for coastal birds like Cape gannets, African penguins, cormorants, terns and gulls.
Black oystercatchers along the coastal waters
Things to do
The park’s attractions extend beyond just the Langebaan Lagoon and the ocean, which provides the chance for swimming and water activities. Hiking and nature trails weave through the diverse landscapes, dotted with fragrant fynbos, ideal for those who appreciate the smaller things. Keep an eye out for Cape mountain zebra or the elusive eland. Two trails are open only during flower season and must be booked in advance: the overnight Postberg two-day trail and the 12.9km Steenbok Day Trail. Several shorter trails are also available without prior booking.
Hiking in Postberg
The lagoon is divided into three zones. One remains a protected wilderness area with no access, while the others permit activities – one for non-motorised and the other for motorised vessels and fishing. Cyclists can explore the park both off-road and on tarred roads. A round trip from the gate to Kraalbaai and back spans 70km on tar, while the longest off-road trail stretches 17km.
One of three zones in the lagoon allows for motorised boatingNumerous trails and roads are suitable for cyclists
There are also numerous spots for swimming, including in Kraalbaai. Tucked between sculpted cliffs and the shimmering shallows of Kraalbaai, Preekstoel is a secluded haven of sun, sea, and striking geology. Named after the remarkable rock formation that resembles a preacher’s pulpit (“Preekstoel” in Afrikaans), this hidden gem is perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or simply soaking in the coastal beauty. Even when shared with a few fellow beachgoers, it feels like your own private paradise.
Frolicking in the calm waters of Langebaan Lagoon around Preekstoel
From August to September, the park is also a prime spot for viewing southern right whales along the coast, solidifying its status as a whale-watching destination.
For some of the most breathtaking views in the West Coast NP, head to the Seeberg viewpoint. From this elevated perch, you’ll gaze across the shimmering southern reaches of the Langebaan Lagoon, with sweeping vistas stretching to Table Mountain and the distant Cederberg mountains. The 4.6km trail from the Langebaan Gate to Seeberg is a scenic journey through fynbos-covered slopes, offering plenty of photo-worthy moments along the way. On a clear day, the Atlantic viewpoint near the West Coast Gate is another worthwhile stop, complete with picnic spots and panoramic coastal views.
Seeberg viewpoint
Explore and stay
Considering a longer stay? You can overnight on the lagoon aboard one of the permanently moored Kraalbaai Houseboats. Each has its own charm and amenities, including braai facilities. The largest can accommodate up to 24 people. Prefer to stay on land? SANParks offers five cottages within the park, including two beachfront options, in addition to options available for school and group stays. There are also other privately owned chalet options in the park.
There are various self-catering cottage options available in the park
Whether you’re seeking respite from city life or a deeper connection with South Africa’s stunning natural landscapes, the West Coast National Park delivers an unforgettable experience. Pack your walking shoes, camera, and sense of wonder – and get ready to explore where land and sea converge in a breathtaking celebration of nature.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Photographer of the Year 2025 Finalists Gallery 2. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Photographer of the Year 2025 Finalists Gallery 1. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 2.
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Top 109 photos + Big 5 AND great apes in 1 safari
Turns out happy hour isn’t just for humans.
In the forests of Guinea-Bissau, wild chimpanzees have been spotted sharing fermented African breadfruit. Motion-triggered cameras caught them passing around naturally alcoholic fruit, and researchers were left wondering: is this bonding behaviour, boozy indulgence, or both?
Chimps rarely share food unless there’s something in it for them, which makes this moment of primate generosity intriguing. Perhaps a little ethanol unlocks not just dopamine, but diplomacy? The so-called “drunken monkey hypothesis” suggests that our ancestors evolved to seek out fermented fruit – riper fruit is higher in sugar – and maybe, just maybe, a bit of social joy came along for the ride. No sign of hangovers yet. Just good company, ripe fruit, and one more curious way we’re not so different from our forest cousins.
And speaking of sharing things that bring us joy: I’m thrilled to announce that we’ve selected the Top 109 photos for Photographer of the Year 2025! Narrowing them down took days of passionate debate among our judges, but the results speak for themselves. These four galleries are visual feasts, not to be missed.
So pour yourself something fruity, and enjoy the show.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 Top 109 – Gallery 1
Photographer of the Year 2025 entries for the Top 109 are here! Enjoy Gallery 1
Story 2 Top 109 – Gallery 2
Submissions for Photographer of the Year 2025 are now closed. Check out Gallery 2
Story 3 Top 109 – Gallery 3
Photographer of the Year 2025 winners will be announced in June. Here’s Gallery 3
Story 4 Top 109 – Gallery 4
Photographer of the Year winners will enjoy a safari to Odzala-Kokoua NP. Check out Gallery 4
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
Watch unhabituated western lowland gorillas and other shy forest creatures from the comfort of elevated treehouses overlooking forest clearings in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. Find gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species that roam the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua.
Inspiring Africa’s young conservationists
Keen to support a bold and creative conservation initiative that’s protecting wildlife and empowering the next generation? Check out our Collar a Lion Campaign.
This campaign aims to protect lions, and the communities that coexist with them. As part of the efforts to mitigate human-wildlife conflict, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) is bringing conservation to life in rural communities through vibrant comics and posters that teach children and families how to coexist with lions and other free-roaming wildlife. These fun, practical resources are already making waves in schools near protected areas, and with your help, they can reach even more.
By supporting the campaign, you’re helping build a future where lions roam wild and children walk to school safely. It’s a simple, meaningful way to support both wildlife conservation and community resilience.
WATCH: In a bold move to reverse the ecological impact of fencing and habitat fragmentation in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, 42 elephants have been translocated from Addo Elephant National Park’s Main Camp to its Kabouga section. This keystone species will now help revive natural ecosystem processes – opening vegetation, dispersing seeds, and restoring biodiversity. The project marks a vital step toward species-led landscape restoration, reconnecting elephant corridors and reactivating the ecological roles these giants once played across a rejuvenated, expanded wilderness. (04:17) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 1 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 2; Gallery 3; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 2 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 3; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 3 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 2; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 4 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 2; Gallery 3
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Ape intimacy decoded + final photos + Vic Falls thrill
The ‘Responsible Travel’ illusion
Self-proclaimed conscious travellers sprinkle their Instagram posts with hashtags like #sustainabletravel and #leaveonlyfootprints, and bathe in the warm glow of virtue. But look closely and you will find that most ‘travel with purpose’ is sterile, vanilla, mass-market mediocrity.
What has a beach resort in a gated compound, a quick bus tour of some ‘local culture’ staged for tourists and your mojito served with a paper straw got to do with protecting wildlife and empowering local people? Nothing. Zero. It’s environmental theatre with room service.
Real responsible travel – holidays that support biodiversity and empower local communities – are often sidelined by holidaymakers because they are less tidy and more complex to arrange. They usually involve staying in smaller lodges rather than big international chains, access via bumpy roads or small planes, and – horror of horrors – no mobile phone reception (Wi-Fi is usually available, albeit slow). Did you know that one of the best ways to travel responsibly is to travel outside the safari high-season months of July to September?
Let’s be brutally honest: mass tourism is a machine that extracts value from nature and people, wraps it in a shiny brochure, and sells it back to tourists with a bow on top. It commodifies cultures and sterilises wild places.
So the next time someone waxes lyrical about responsible travel while sipping a cocktail at a mega-resort that flattened a mangrove forest, call them out. Or better yet, lead by example. Book a trip that supports conservation and empowers local communities. Anything less is just green-tinted tourism.
Those of us pursuing the holy grail of responsible travel are not yet perfect, but we are working on it. Please help us set the standard.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What’s small, warty, and has been a total mystery until now? Tomopterna banhinensis, a newly described sand frog from Mozambique that slipped under the radar for decades. In the vast mosaic of Africa’s biodiversity, it’s humbling to realise how many puzzle pieces we’ve yet to find – some hiding in plain sight.
The discovery of this new, charming cryptic frog highlights the power of patient science, collaboration, and a sharp eye for tubercles. Morphologically, the frog closely resembles other sand frogs, which is why it went unnoticed until now. Only careful genetic analysis revealed it was something new. Its discovery highlights how many “lookalike” frog species may still be hidden across Africa, which can be unveiled through DNA sequencing. The world is still wilder, and richer, than we can imagine.
Below, we examine how chimps and bonobos use sex to keep the peace. We also bring you the final gallery of new Photographer of the Year 2025 entries. Now, the judging – and fun – begins!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 FINAL PHOTOS
Our final week of new entries for Photographer of the Year! Winners will be awarded a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Story 2 APE SEX
Research reveals bonobos & chimps use sex to resolve tension. Great ape sex offers insight into the evolutionary roots of human intimacy
This safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: the iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flight over Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
A 10-day luxury safari escape. Indulge in adventure through the Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta, and Moremi Game Reserve. Stay in immersive lodges, enjoy helicopter flights into the heart of the bush, and witness breathtaking wildlife.
WATCH: South Sudan is home to the largest land mammal migration on Earth: the Great Nile Migration. During this migration, an estimated 6 million antelope move north and east across the country towards Gambella National Park in Ethiopia after the seasonal rains. Knowing this has allowed African Parks to amplify the safeguarding of this globally significant landscape and its wildlife, while working together with local communities, to uphold their livelihoods and cultural needs. (06:24) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Could sex be more than just reproduction – for chimps and bonobos too? We’ve long known that physical intimacy in humans can defuse tension, mend rifts, and build bonds. But are we the only primates using pleasure as a peacekeeping tool? New research dives deep into the post-conflict behaviours of our closest relatives, revealing surprising parallels between how humans and the great apes use sex – and a few intriguing differences too. These insights may change the way we see the origins of human sexuality.
Humans often hug, kiss, and touch after arguments. We have long understood that sex is about more than just reproduction. Throughout history and across cultures, it has helped us express intimacy, build stronger bonds, and navigate social power dynamics. However, the question remains: do our closest animal relatives, such as bonobos and chimpanzees, also utilise sex for purposes beyond mere mating? Insights into the sexual lives of our primate cousins could shed fascinating light on the evolutionary origins of this uniquely human trait.
New research published in Royal Society Open Science offers insight into the way these great apes use sex. Researchers from Durham University’s Department of Psychology spent over 1,400 hours observing chimpanzees at the Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Trust in Zambia, and bonobos at the Lola ya Bonobo sanctuary in the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Chimpanzees at Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Trust in Zambia
Lola ya Bonobo houses three groups of bonobos in enclosures that vary in size from 15 to 20 hectares, featuring rainforest, swamp, lake, stream, and open grass areas. Chimfunshi houses four groups of chimpanzees in enclosures ranging from 19 to 77 hectares, set within miombo woodland. Both sanctuaries are home to wild-born individuals, as well as those orphaned and rescued from the pet and bushmeat trades, and animals born within the sanctuaries. In both environments, the animals can roam and forage independently, but a team provides them with fruits and vegetables twice a day.
Lead researcher Jake Brooker explained that they observed spontaneous fights and followed the victims, recording all their social interactions, both with uninvolved group members and with the individuals they had fought. The team also conducted a feeding experiment to create a competitive situation, allowing them to observe how group members behaved when tensions were high.
Bonobos and chimpanzees are valuable to study because they are our closest living relatives. While chimpanzees are often the stars of evolutionary theories, bonobos share around 98.7% of their DNA with humans, just like chimps. There are some key differences between the species. Female coalitions and their sons lead bonobo societies, whereas alpha males and their male allies lead chimpanzee groups.
Bonobos share around 98.7% of their DNA with humans
This backdrop of contrasting social structures fuelled the researchers’ expectations. Bonobos have a reputation as the “make love, not war” apes, so the research team expected to see significant differences between the two species. Brooker noted they expected bonobos to use sexual behaviours, like genital contact, more often after conflicts or during feeding competition. While they knew chimps did this too, they did not expect it to happen as frequently as it did, and the extent of the overlap surprised them.
The study revealed that while bonobos were more likely to use genital contact after conflict, both species showed similar rates of this behaviour before feeding when competition for resources intensified. “We did think male-male chimp pairs might use sex more than other chimp pairs, but the tendencies were still reasonable across all pairs in both species,” says Brooker.
Interestingly, female bonobos and male chimps were more likely to initiate these interactions, hinting at sex-specific roles in social bonding. Female-female bonobo pairs were the most frequent users of sexual behaviours, while it was predominantly male-female pairs in chimps, usually initiated by the males. However, sexual contact occurred across all pairings.
Jack the chimpanzee offers Kenny the chimpanzee reassurance and comfort
What stood out most was how these great apes used genital contact in anticipation of feeding competition. They also found that group differences influenced the frequency of these interactions. While age did not affect this post-fight sexual action in either species, older apes were more likely to initiate sex before feeding. This suggests that it may be a learned behaviour passed down over time.
The researchers believe that these sexual interactions serve a critical social function: conflict resolution and tension reduction. In stressful situations, genital contact can help calm individuals, strengthen bonds, and prevent fights from escalating. This aligns with findings from human research, which indicate that physical intimacy can reduce stress and foster social connections. In bonobos and chimpanzees, sexual contact may serve as a signal of reconciliation or a means to maintain harmony within the group.
The study challenges the idea that only humans use sex for complex social reasons and suggests that this is an ancient primate trait, suggesting that our last common ancestor with these great apes likely used sex for purposes beyond mere reproduction. The researchers argue that the social role of sex is not a uniquely human construct, but rather an ancient and flexible trait passed down through our shared evolutionary lineage.
As scientists continue to unravel the social intricacies of these great apes, their intimate behaviours offer a compelling window into the origins of human sexuality and social dynamics. The secret lives of our primate cousins may hold the key to understanding some of our most fundamental social instincts.
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Bon Jovi the lion’s tragic end + penultimate pics + Kenya family safari
Bon Jovi is one of many free-roaming male lions that have been killed by humans, either for fun and ego or to protect lives and livelihoods.
I met Bon Jovi in Liuwa Plain – what a magnificent lion! Although from a biological perspective, he was no more special than the other maned craggy males who roam free and ensure genetic diversity. His demise by euthanasia is such a sad indictment on humankind; our expansion at the expense of all else. I don’t blame rural villagers for not wanting dangerous animals roaming their towns and farmlands – that scenario has already played itself out across the Planet, and our species always wins. While I mourn the loss of individuals like Bon Jovi and the creep of our species into every nook and cranny, I also celebrate that Africa has many wild places where these great beasts still thrive.
That said, the social media hysteria and false accusations aimed at the vets, officials, and field rangers who had to perform this horrible task are a concern. The libellous accusations and cut-and-paste alternative solutions smack of hatred, naivety and a deep-seated disconnect with the reality at ground level here in Africa.
Thank you for choosing to absorb the facts as presented by my team and for understanding how complex these situations are. Thank you also for supporting Africa Geographic in our drive to tailor-make responsible safaris where local people benefit significantly and see the benefit of having dangerous wildlife in their neighbourhoods.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
They found them just in time. Dozens upon dozens of vultures, poisoned and barely clinging to life beside an elephant carcass laced with toxic agrochemicals – bait for harvesting body parts for the illegal wildlife trade. What followed in Kruger National Park’s remote Mahlangeni Section this week was a rescue at one of the largest poisoning events seen in the park – with 123 vultures found dead at the scene. SANParks rangers and Endangered Wildlife Trust specialists led the charge, with support from vets and rehabbers, administering atropine, activated charcoal and fluid therapy on site – emergency first aid for birds on the brink.
84 Cape, white-backed and hooded vultures were rescued, carried out by helicopter and vulture ambulance, whisked off to safety under the watch of vets, pilots and volunteers. Against the odds, 83 birds are still alive. Poacher’s poisons are swift. But so too are the responses of those who care. This was conservation at its finest: fast, fierce, and full of heart. To every ranger, vet, pilot and quiet hero behind the scenes – thank you.
Below, we share all the details that led to the famous lion Bon Jovi being euthanised. And we bring you two galleries of the best photos for our penultimate week of entries for Photographer of the Year 2025.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 BON JOVI EUTHANISED
Famous lion Bon Jovi was euthanised close to a rural village in community-owned land near Zambia’s Kafue NP after reportedly killing cattle
Story 2 PENULTIMATE PICS 1
Photographer of the Year 2025 is now closed for entries! Here are our top photos for Week 12 of the competition – Gallery 1
Story 3 PENULTIMATE PICS 2
Explore Gallery 2 of our Week 12 entries from Photographer of the Year 2025. Winners will be awarded a safari to Odzala-Kokoua
Combine three iconic parks with family fun for everyone. This nine-day family safari to Kenya’s three most iconic destinations is packed with adventure for everyone. Expect an astonishing variety of wildlife encounters, from the Big 5 and Great Wildebeest Migration of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, to huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli National Park and the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and beisa oryx.
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Lake Manyara National Park to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
Our safari guests say…
Another 5-star review for teamAG! Subrahmanyan enjoyed a first-class Southern African safari:
“Karen, our safari expert from Africa Geographic, was truly exceptional. The itinerary she put together covering South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, was at first-class lodges, and the safari experiences and river cruises were magical. The staff at the lodges and the drivers and trackers made us feel at home.
Our travel started with a 2-day delay thanks to the weather and the cancellation of our flight from New Jersey! Karen was immediately accessible and made the necessary changes almost seamlessly. She prepared detailed documentation for our insurance claim and was available even on the weekend. We would highly recommend Karen and Africa Geographic and will be using their services in a few years when we visit Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda!”
WATCH: June–July marks the beginning of the best wildlife-viewing season in Africa. There is very little rain expected (the dry season prevails), and temperatures are moderate – perfect safari weather. Here’s what you can expect from a June–July safari. (01:37) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
Well-known lion Bon Jovi has been darted and euthanised near a rural village in community-owned farmland northwest of Zambia’s Kafue National Park after reportedly killing cattle. He had been relocated two months earlier to Kafue from Liuwa Plain National Park after also killing cattle in neighbouring villages. All information was provided by James Milanzi, Zambia country manager African Parks.
Given his behaviour and deteriorating condition due to the scarcity of natural prey outside Kafue, the decision to euthanise Bon Jovi was made as he posed a threat to both humans and livestock. The operation to dart and humanely euthanise him was performed by a team consisting of vets from Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), Wildlife Police Officers, and African Parks staff.
Bon Jovi is a son of legendary lioness Queen Sepo – one of the founder population of lions brought in to repopulate Liuwa Plain. Poaching and illegal trophy hunting had eradicated lions from Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia in the 1990s. Except for one lioness – Lady Liuwa. Lady Liuwa roamed the park on her own for many years –- sometimes seeking the company of humans. Despite being too old to breed, Lady Liuwa headed up the newly established pride until she died of natural causes in 2017. After many setbacks, lions are now flourishing in Liuwa Plain once again, and playing their vital ecosystem roles. Bon Jovi sired many cubs, and his adult sons now rule the plains. He was eight years and seven months old when he died.
The charismatic Bon Jovi was relocated in late February to Kafue from Liuwa Plain after killing cattle in villages bordering the unfenced national park. He was fitted with a GPS collar and closely monitored after his release in Kafue. After spending March roaming the vast unfenced Kafue, in early April he made his way into community farmland northwest of the park, where he resumed killing cattle.
Says James Milanzi, the Zambia country manager African Parks: “African Parks is grateful to DNPW for their support in resolving this unfortunate issue. As humans and wild animals live in closer proximity, the potential for conflict increases and responsible steps must be taken to ensure the safety and livelihoods of local communities. While this particular lion was euthanised due to human-wildlife conflict, the reality is that large protected areas like Kafue are crucial for the survival of Africa’s wild lions. This incident underscores the critical need for the long-term conservation of ecosystems like Kafue, as they provide space for lions to survive. African Parks, in partnership with the DNPW, is committed to ensuring the long-term protection and sustainability of Kafue’s wild lion population.”
African Parks manages Kafue National Park in collaboration with DNPW, and Liuwa Plain National Park in collaboration with DNPW and the Barotse Royal Establishment.
Every now and then, science gets a helping hand from something richer than data: deep, lived knowledge. This week, that knowledge helped identify the world’s first fossilised pangolin trackway, found on South Africa’s Western Cape coast – and confirmed with the help of two Ju/’hoansi San trackers from Namibia.
Not bones, but footprints. Not a skeleton, but a fleeting moment, pressed into sand 120,000 years ago and now preserved in stone. The discovery is groundbreaking – not only for what it tells us about where pangolins once roamed, but for how it was uncovered: through a partnership between scientists and two Indigenous Master Trackers. The discovery confirms that pangolins were once distributed across a larger range than they are now. Stories like this are why we do what we do. Following the faint spoor of the past, we find new reasons to protect what remains.
And speaking of footprints through ancient southern Africa… Namibia’s landscapes don’t just hint at the past, they encapsulate it. Namibia’s deserts, shipwrecked coastlines and contoured dunes are a paradise for photographers. This week, we follow the lens into some of Namibia’s most striking photographic hotspots. See our story below.
We also bring you our latest collection of photos from Photographer of the Year 2025. From baby gorillas in Rwanda to stilt-walkers in Ethiopia, leopards in the Mara to flamingos over Mozambique, this gallery captures rare wildlife moments and cultural traditions – one frame at a time. Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries, but, we still have two more galleries of entries that we will bring you in the next two weeks, consisting of the cascade of photos that we have received in the last few days.
Until next time, follow the tracks, and tread lightly.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 PHOTOGENIC NAMIBIA
Namibia is a photographer’s paradise, and in this post we show you where to go to get the most from your photographic safari
Story 2 INCREDIBLE PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is now closed for entries! Here are our top photos for Week 11 of the competition
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve and its conservation successes, before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoying the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
WATCH: Liwonde National Park, Malawi, offers some of the best river-based viewing in Africa of elephants, crocodiles and hippos. The park stretches along the banks of the Shire River – just south of Lake Malombe and Lake Malawi. Verdant landscapes consist of riverine floodplains, woodlands, and arid savannahs. This is a great comeback story of how a sustainable Big-5 safari destination was reclaimed from a poached wasteland. (0:36) Click here to watch
Namibia continues to feature prominently on the must-visit list for passionate nature photographers – and for good reason. Expansive landscapes, untouched wilderness, and a rich diversity of wildlife (including the Big 5) make this southern African gem a dream destination for anyone eager to capture wild nature at its finest. That said, a few key elements can make or break your photographic journey, chief among them being knowing where to go.
Take your time
Namibia is vast – truly vast – and packed with photographic gems. Attempting to cover all the highlights in one whirlwind safari trip to Namibia may be challenging. Doing justice to the country’s visual potential takes time and intention. In fact, even a few weeks will barely scratch the surface.
We recommend selecting a handful of your favourite photographic hotspots, planning a trip of at least three weeks, and staying a minimum of three nights at each location. This gives you the freedom to return to promising spots in different light, explore hidden corners, and fully absorb the essence of each destination.
A word of advice: Namibia’s gravel roads, while scenic, can be slow going – often corrugated and rough. Allow plenty of time between destinations so you’re not racing the sun to your next overnight stop. After all, you’ll want to be camera-ready for golden hour, not stuck in a dusty car rushing to check in.
These iconic aloes thrive in Namibia’s arid, rocky terrain. Nowhere are they more striking than at the Quiver Tree Forest, where their golden-brown bark and sculptural forms glow in the early morning and late afternoon light.
This surreal grove allows photographers to capture bold silhouettes against richly coloured desert skies – especially rewarding at sunrise or sunset.
The Fish River Canyon is the second-largest canyon in the world – a geological marvel that impresses with its vast scale, rugged formations, and raw remoteness. It’s a paradise for photographers, hikers and nature lovers.
The best time to photograph this dramatic landscape is at dusk, when the canyon walls come alive in soft, glowing hues as the sun dips low on the horizon. Plan your visit during the cooler months (May to September) to avoid extreme temperatures.
Fish River Canyon
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE, Southern Namibia
One of the largest private nature reserves in Namibia, NamibRand is a mosaic of red dunes, gravel plains, and rugged desert mountains. It’s also home to healthy populations of gemsbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok, and ostrich.
The sheer scale, silence and diversity of NamibRand make it a haven for photographers in search of Namibia’s quieter, more textured moods. Look out for golden light rolling over grassy plains and the chance to capture wildlife in wide, cinematic landscapes.
While floodwater in the pan is a rare sight, occurring only every few years and highly unpredictable, the area’s dry beauty is more than enough to keep your shutter clicking.
A brown hyena in SossusvleiTraversing Sossusvlei’s dunes
DEADVLEI, near Sossusvlei
Once a hidden gem, Deadvlei has become one of Namibia’s most iconic photo destinations in the Sossusvlei region. Here, the blackened skeletons of long-dead camel thorn trees rise from a chalk-white pan, framed by some of the highest dunes on Earth.
The stark contrast and haunting stillness make for an unforgettable photographic experience. Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to make the most of long shadows and dramatic light.
Deadvlei’s skeletal trees make for incredible photo subjects. (Check out more pics from Christopher Scott here)
Skeleton Coast National Park, North Atlantic Coast
Bleak, beautiful, and otherworldly, the Skeleton Coast stretches along Namibia’s remote northwestern coast. This realm of shifting dunes, shipwrecks, salt pans and sea mist offers wonderful photographic opportunities. Despite its desolate appearance, this coastal desert teems with life for those who know where to look. Here, jackals leave delicate tracks on the sand, rusty and long-abandoned ships decay into surreal sculptures, and desert-adapted lions roam the dunes in search of seals and scavenging opportunities. For photographers, the interplay of texture, light, and isolation offers a truly unique experience.
Desert-adapted lions on the Skeleton Coast
Spitzkoppe, Damaraland
Often dubbed the “Matterhorn of Namibia,” Spitzkoppe rises like a forgotten relic from the flat gravel plains of Damaraland. This ancient granite outcrop was once a sanctuary for the San (Bushmen), drawn here by abundant game, fresh spring water, and sheltering caves adorned with rock art.
Today, the stark beauty and sculptural drama of Spitzkoppe’s towering boulders continue to enchant photographers and travellers alike. The golden glow of sunrise and sunset paints the rocks in rich hues, while the crystal-clear desert night sky invites long-exposure stargazing beneath natural rock arches.
Situated along Namibia’s dramatic Skeleton Coast, Cape Cross Seal Reserve is home to one of the largest Cape fur seal colonies on Earth. Here, tens of thousands of seals haul out along the Atlantic shore, forming a chaotic but captivating spectacle.
Photographers can get surprisingly close to these marine mammals, capturing intimate moments of pups nursing, bulls posturing, and families lazing in the coastal sun. While the scent can be overwhelming, the photographic opportunities are unrivalled.
A Cape fur seal at Cape CrossBlack-backed jackals devour a seal carcass at Cape Cross
Etosha National Park, Northern Namibia
Etosha is Namibia’s premier wildlife photography destination – and with good reason. The animals here are habituated to vehicles, allowing for close encounters and compelling photographic moments ranging from intimate portraits to sweeping scenes of herds traversing the shimmering pan.
During the dry season, wildlife gathers at Etosha’s many waterholes, making it one of the best places in Africa to photograph multi-species interactions. Expect to see elephants, rhinos, lions, hyenas, cheetahs and, if you’re lucky, a leopard or two. The diversity of plains game – springbok, wildebeest, kudu, zebra, gemsbok – is complemented by over 400 bird species, making Etosha a year-round draw for photographers and birders alike.
Etosha offers incredible wildlife viewingMasses of wildlife gather at Etosha’s pans
Hoanib River Valley, Kaokoland
Winding through the rugged desert mountains of remote Kaokoland in northwestern Namibia, the Hoanib River is a predominantly dry watercourse that flows only during rare periods of substantial rainfall. Despite its arid nature, it supports a surprising array of desert-adapted wildlife, including elephant, lion, giraffe, gemsbok, and more.
Photographers will find inspiration in the contrast between life and desolation – towering white-trunked ana trees rising from the fog, gemsbok silhouetted against burnt-orange sands, and elephants navigating the dry riverbed in search of water.
The Hoanib’s moods shift with the seasons: blisteringly harsh in mid-summer, but touched by an eerie beauty during foggy winter mornings, when moisture from the Atlantic creeps inland.
A desert-adapted elephant in Hoanib Valley
Epupa Falls, Kaokoland
On the border with Angola, far in the remote reaches of Kaokoland, the Kunene River spills over a series of rocky ledges to create the cascading Epupa Falls – one of Namibia’s hidden gems.
Here, ancient baobabs cling to rocky outcrops above the white spray, while palm-lined banks frame the river. The setting is a tranquil contrast to the surrounding arid land, and the photographic opportunities are rich: dreamy long-exposure waterfall shots, golden-hour baobabs, and cultural encounters with Himba communities who live nearby.
Epupa Falls in the incredible glow of the sun peaking out of the horizon
Mahango Game Reserve, Zambezi Region, Northern Namibia
Tucked in Namibia’s lush northeast, where the Okavango River crosses into Botswana, Mahango Game Reserve is a verdant outlier in this largely arid country. The reserve forms part of the Bwabwata National Park and is a haven for wildlife and birds – an essential stop for nature photographers exploring the Zambezi Region.
Here you’ll find riverine forests, reed-fringed marshes, and wide floodplains that support large herds of elephant, buffalo, hippo and a variety of rare antelope species such as roan, sable and sitatunga. Over 450 bird species have been recorded in the area – from fish eagles and kingfishers to the elusive Pel’s fishing owl – offering rich rewards for patient photographers.
Red lechwes in MahangoA lone Cape buffalo bull in Mahango
Final thoughts
Namibia rewards patience, curiosity, and a keen eye. Rather than rushing between locations, settle in and allow each landscape to reveal its secrets over time. Whether you’re chasing the soft pinks of dawn or the shadows of ancient trees, Namibia offers a photographer’s paradise – one frame at a time.
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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Guest payments go into a third-party TRUST ACCOUNT - protecting them in the unlikely event of a financial setback on our part. Also, we are members of SATSA who attest to our integrity, legal compliance and financial stability.
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!