Page 2 – Africa Geographic

THIS WEEK – 17 October 2025

Shark attacks buffalo? + ebony and ivory + Lake Malawi uncovered

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

Shark attacks buffalo in Kruger

Have you seen the video of a massive great white shark that attacked a buffalo in the Sabie River, Kruger National Park? No? That’s because it never happened. Ever.

Fake AI video clips and photos in our social media feeds are leaving some gasping in wonder and awe, and clicking share. A soaring eagle carries away a massive thrashing crocodile, and an elephant lovingly cradles a lion cub in its curled-up trunk to safety from the slavering mouths of tigers. ‘Entertainment’ aside, the growing void between software-generated fabrications and the real, biological, natural world grows, and our algorithmic enslavement continues to take root.

Carefully weeding my accounts of the purveyors of this cr@p does help. Still, the tide is rising, and the owners of social media continue to prioritise emotional engagement over boring facts, intelligent thought and constructive debate. This volume-based business model fuels their advertising revenue. We are rapidly heading towards a future where most content is generated by software, and we are the (muted) fuel that drives the revenue engine. Of course, this generic mousse completely misses the angular, beautiful reality of biological life and confuses the masses about what nature is all about. The risks to our planet’s biodiversity and stability are obvious as more and more people are being screened off from Mother Nature and see her as irrelevant in their lives.

Have no fear that my team will continue to celebrate the real world in our stories, galleries and reporting. Warts and all. Likewise, our tailor-made safaris are handcrafted to ensure the most meaningful experiences and to showcase this great place we call home.

Thanks for continuing to prefer science and facts over software-generated detritus. We are in the minority, but we are powerful. A luta continua!

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click below to listen to this editorial

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Bats aren’t always the gentle insect-eaters we imagine. Scientists have, for the first time, recorded a greater noctule bat (Nyctalus lasiopterus) hunting, killing, and eating a songbird mid-flight, complete with the sound of crunches of feather and bone. Found in parts of North Africa, Europe, and Asia, this large and elusive bat has long been suspected of snacking on night-flying birds, but until now, proof was missing.

The bat was fitted with a high-tech tag, and the recording, captured in Spain, revealed the bat’s aerial chase of an unfortunate robin, ending in a 23-minute feast. Greater noctules usually feed on insects, but seem to switch to small birds during the birds’ migration seasons. The discovery offers a rare glimpse into the adaptability of these endangered giants.

This week, we explore the connection between elephants and ebony trees in the Congo Basin’s rainforests, and the wild beauty of Lake Malawi, one of the continent’s most overlooked travel gems.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!

Our stories this week

EBONY & IVORY
Central Africa’s elephants and ebony: new research reveals how Africa’s forest elephants sustain its darkest wood, & what happens when they both vanish

LAKE MALAWI
Lake Malawi is Africa’s best-kept secret – a freshwater lake surrounded by gorgeous beaches, islands & biodiversity with endless opportunities for exploration

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Serengeti Great Migration and big cats – 8 days – from US$7590pp

Be prepared for the drama and the wonder of the vast open plains. Step into the wild heart of Tanzania as the Great Migration sweeps across the vast Serengeti. Encounter endless herds, prowling predators, golden savannahs and dramatic big skies on this unforgettable safari adventure.
All Arusha–Northern Serengeti–Central Serengeti–Arusha flights included

Ruaha and Mafia Island beach and bush – 8 days – from US$4,710pps

Discover two of Tanzania’s extraordinary and contrasting destinations. The wild beauty of Ruaha National Park, where ancient baobabs tower over elephant herds and prowling predators, to the turquoise waters of Mafia Island, a barefoot hideaway of coral gardens and castaway calm. This classic safari-and-sea combination captures the true spirit of Africa-untamed, soulful, and unforgettable.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

Our safari guests say…

Repeat AG safari guest, Ana from Brazil, went on an unforgettable Tanzania safari:

Been travelling with Africa Geographic for some time now and it has always been a fantastic experience. They take really good care of me and present me with awesome destinations. This time, it was Selous and Ruaha in Tanzania. The camps were beautifully positioned, the management impeccable and the food was delicious! Africa Geographic suggested the destination and planned it extremely well.

Find your dream safari here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

The Roar of Somkhanda: watch the inspiring journey of South Africa’s first community-owned Big 5 game reserve, Somkhanda Game Reserve. Spanning 12,000 hectares of pristine Zululand bushveld, this sanctuary stands as a testament to the power of community-driven conservation. (08:49) Click here to watch

Cover image: You go left, I’ll go right. A pair of male cheetahs work together to tackle a lone topi. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ivan Glaser
Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant

Lake Malawi – freshwater beach & island paradise

It probably would have come as something of a surprise to the local inhabitants of Lake Malawi to learn that their lake was “hitherto undiscovered”, but even by traditional standards of colonial “discovery”, Livingstone was mistaken. His arrival came some 13 years after that of several Portuguese traders. To add insult to injury, he then proclaimed Lake Malawi as Lake Nyasa, which translates to “Lake Lake” in Chiyao – a name that has stuck in both Tanzania and Mozambique to this day.

Livingstone’s alternative moniker, Lake Nyinyesi or “Lake of Stars” (in reference to the lights of the fishing boats bobbing about on the lake’s surface at night), was perhaps a better fit. This at least does some justice to the enchanting atmosphere of the lake and its surroundings. Whatever the label ascribed to this magnificent body of water, there is no question that Lake Malawi remains one of Africa’s best-kept travel secrets and a wonderful beach holiday experience. A crystalline freshwater lake surrounded by sandy beaches fringed by palm trees – could there be a better way to wash off the dust at the end of an African bush safari?

The Lake

Lake Malawi/Lake Nyasa is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift system. It is the fourth-largest freshwater lake in the world (by volume) and the third-largest in Africa (behind Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika). The lake is around 570km long and some 75km at its widest point, with a central depression that extends to a depth of over 700m (if this doesn’t fully put things into perspective, Lake Malawi holds an estimated 7% of the world’s available surface freshwater). It lies between Mozambique, Malawi and Tanzania, and the exact position of the international boundary between Malawi and Tanzania remains a matter of considerable contention that has boiled over into frequent diplomatic disputes.

The largest river feeding the lake is the Ruhuhu River, which flows south from Tanzania, while the renowned Shire River serves as the lake’s primary outlet. The basin is believed to be around 8.6 million years old, formed as the African tectonic plates began to diverge. Research indicates that water levels have varied considerably over the millennia, including periods where the lake dried out almost entirely.

Lake Malawi is classified as a meromictic lake. This means that the layers of water (surface and deep waters) do not mix, unlike in more common holomitic lakes, where the layers physically mix at least once a year. This stable “stratification” of the waters creates radically different environments for the lake’s organisms, as the deeper waters are almost entirely without oxygen and considerably cooler.

The water is usually exceptionally clear for a freshwater lake, with visibility often extending further than 20m in clear conditions, sometimes more in exceptional cases. Beneath the warm cerulean waves, Lake Malawi’s ancient yet turbulent geologic history has created truly spectacular underwater scenery, decorated with electric flashes of vibrant fish.

Snorkel, scuba, kayak, sail (or just sunbathe)

Along Lake Malawi’s extensive shoreline, tiny beach villages, resorts, and lodges offer adventurous tourists a plethora of opportunities to explore the waters above and below the azure ripples. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. This also provides the opportunity to marvel at the enormous granite boulders scattered by the forces of a more primordial earth, or perhaps even catch a glimpse of a fish eagle swooping in to snatch up an inattentive fish. For those intent on sticking to a more sedate pace, boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s famous, blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows.

Check out our Lake Malawi trip ideas here, or explore other safaris in Malawi here. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

There are two caveats to exploring the lake’s waters. The first is that there are crocodiles and hippos in residence. However, they tend to remain closer to more vegetated or muddy areas rather than to broad, open, clear waters. Fortunately, they are easy to spot in the clear water, too. It is worth remembering that Malawi’s rainy season runs from December to around March, and the consequent runoff affects water visibility. The second is that bilharzia is a risk for those who enter the water. As such, visitors should follow guidelines for the specific areas they are visiting. The risk is highest near densely populated areas and negligible on secluded islands. Infection is rare, and bilharzia can be quickly and efficiently treated with anthelmintic drugs.

water safaris — Soft sandy beaches overlooking endless waters

Something fishy

In terms of wildlife, crocodiles and hippos take second place behind the astonishing variety of fish that inhabit the lake – up to 1,000 species – more than any other lake in the world.

The majority of these are cichlids, whose evolutionary radiations have been a source of eternal fascination for biologists intent on unpicking their taxonomic complexities. (Though their bright, shiny colours are the most attractive characteristic for the average diver.) These stunning little fish are everywhere, though most numerous in the shallow shoreline areas where they create nesting ‘sandcastles’ (officially termed bowers) and ferry their tiny fry by mouth.

Fishing is an integral way of life for local Malawians living on the lake’s shores. Exploring the tiny fishing villages, learning about the culture of fishing is fascinating. Unfortunately, overfishing has become a serious concern in recent decades. This stems from both small-scale and more industrial fishing, with some commercial operations increasing pressure on certain stocks.

Lake Malawi’s Paradise Islands

Though far from over-developed, there is a distinctive ‘beach-town atmosphere’ to some of the more popular sections and resorts of Lake Malawi, particularly along the southern shoreline (most notably, Cape Maclear). These hubs are popular with low-budget travellers, and several backpacking establishments offer affordable accommodation and lively nightlife.

Several upmarket lodges boast their own private beaches for those keen on a more exclusive experience. Here, residents can step straight out of their cabins onto the white sand. There are many of these on Lake Malawi’s scattered islands, some of which are entirely private, set aside for exclusive use by lodge guests. These tropical escapes offer the same amenities as any other luxury beach holiday, usually at a fraction of the cost. The two largest islands, Likoma and Chizumulu, are inhabited by small populations of some 10,500 (Likoma) and 4,000 (Chizumulu) people. Fascinatingly, despite having no tarred roads or electricity after 10 PM, the town of Likoma is home to the enormous, gothic, stone edifice of St Peter’s Anglican Cathedral.

History lessons on Lake Malawi

This rich sense of history extends across the lake, and the Lake Malawi Museum documents the story of the first naval battle of World War I. However, to call it a naval battle might be something of a stretch. The story goes that Captain Rhoades of the SS Gwendolen was the first to receive official orders and immediately set out to disable the German steamship Hermann von Wissman while it was being repaired. His friend and supposed drinking buddy, Captain Berndt, was entirely unaware that the war had started, so when bombs began raining down on the docked Hermann von Wissman, Berndt rowed out to the Gwendolen to inquire if his old pal Rhoades had perhaps had one too many.

Bush and beach

Beyond its shimmering shores, Lake Malawi’s hinterland reveals a tapestry of inland wonders that rival the beauty of the water itself. Directly inland from Lake Malawi’s shoreline, a rich and varied landscape unfolds. The narrow coastal plain quickly gives way to wooded hills and escarpments clothed in miombo woodland, dominated by brachystegia, mopane, and acacia trees that flush golden after the rains. These forests shelter a surprising array of wildlife, including baboons, vervet monkeys, bushbuck, warthogs, and small antelope such as duiker. Birdlife is prolific: fish eagles, hornbills, sunbirds, and bee-eaters thrive in the woodland canopy and along the riverine thickets that feed into the lake. Pockets of evergreen forest cling to the higher ridges, where orchids and ferns flourish in the cool, misty air. In certain areas, particularly around Cape Maclear and Nankumba Peninsula, the escarpment forests blend into rocky outcrops and grassland, providing habitat for hyraxes and the occasional leopard.

The African pitta is one of the most sought-after bird sightings around Lake Malawi

A duiker spotted in the inland woodlands of Lake Malawi

Ancient fig tree — An iconic ancient fig tree overlooking the lake

Though not one of the more popular safari destinations, Malawi’s conservation and ecotourism ventures have grown from strength to strength in recent years. Many of the country’s pristine protected areas offer a ‘Big 5’ experience, with the added advantage that they are unspoilt by mass tourism. Just a short journey from the southern shore of Lake Malawi lies Liwonde National Park, bordered by (and indeed accessible to) the Shire River. Along with the adjacent Mangochi Forest and under the auspices of African Parks, the national park is flourishing, and translocated animals from other reserves have bolstered local wildlife populations.

Further south, the 700km² (70,000-hectare) Majete Wildlife Reserve in southwestern Malawi is one of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories and a premier Big-5 safari destination. Here, African Parks has also assumed responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of the reserve, and implemented programs to protect the reserve, with teams successfully securing the safety of Majete’s wildlife populations

Malawi’s birding is equally varied and exciting, with 684 species recorded. Liwonde National Park is also the population stronghold of Lilian’s lovebird.

DID YOU KNOW that Majete Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park are managed by African Parks? African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities. Find out more and book your African Parks safari through Ukuri here.

The Lake of Stars

From spectacular hiking trails to pristine white beaches, Lake Malawi’s true magic lies in its relative “undiscovered” status (despite Livingstone’s best efforts). Removed from the famous safari circuits, its crystal waters and pristine biodiversity make for the perfect tropical escape, accompanied by the warm embrace of local hospitality.

Further reading

Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose! We bring you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday

Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are its lifeblood. Here’s our list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent

Liwonde National Park is an exceptional safari destination, revived from the brink of destruction & now a key protected area in Malawi. Read more about Liwonde here

Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve is a booming Big 5 destination. Be drawn by epic scenery, cheetahs & wild dogs, & the mighty Shire River. Read more about Majete here

Ebony and ivory: a tale of two collapses

African forest elephants and African ebony trees share a close and ancient ecological relationship. A new study provides the first direct evidence that as elephant numbers decline across Central Africa, so too does the regeneration of ebony trees. The research reveals that elephants are crucial not only for dispersing ebony seeds but also for protecting them from predators – a dual role that determines the tree’s survival in the Congo Basin.

Deep in the humid heart of the Congo Basin, in dense forests, two of the continent’s most iconic treasures – ebony and ivory – are in decline, their fates intrinsically linked. A new study published in Science Advances reveals that the African forest elephant (Loxodonta cyclotis) and the African ebony tree (Diospyros crassiflora) are bound by a mutualism that now teeters on the edge of collapse.

For decades, the story of ivory has been one of poaching and elephant population decline. Forest elephants once roamed throughout the Congo Basin, acting as ecosystem engineers. But poaching for ivory has reduced their population by 86% in the past three decades, pushing the species to the brink of extinction. The repercussions of this loss reach beyond the elephant itself. As the study by Vincent Deblauwe and colleagues shows, when elephants disappear, so does the next generation of ebony.

A tree dependent on elephants

The African ebony tree is one of the most valuable timber species in the world, renowned for its dark, dense heartwood, which is used in the manufacture of fine instruments and furniture. It is a slow-growing, dioecious species – meaning individual trees are either male or female, and only the females bear fruit. Ebony produces large, fleshy fruits that fall beneath the parent tree. These fruits belong to what ecologists call the megafaunal dispersal syndrome – an evolutionary trait where plants rely on large-bodied animals to transport their heavy seeds over long distances.

Elephants are suited to this task. They consume the ripe ebony fruits, digest the pulp, and excrete the intact seeds far from the parent tree. This process performs two critical functions: it transports the seeds to new areas and deposits them within nutrient-rich dung, creating ideal conditions for germination.

Experiments in the forest

The study, conducted at four forest sites in and around Cameroon’s Dja Faunal Reserve, compared areas with healthy elephant populations to those where elephants have been extirpated due to poaching. Researchers collected data on tree size, seed distribution, genetic diversity, and germination rates. They also ran controlled experiments to test how well ebony seeds survived and sprouted under different conditions – in elephant dung, on the forest floor, and when left exposed.

The results were precise. In forests without elephants, young ebony saplings were dramatically fewer – a 68% decline compared to elephant-rich areas. Moreover, almost half of all ebony trees in elephant-inhabited forests were young saplings, compared with only 15% in elephant-free forests. These findings indicate that without elephants, the natural regeneration of ebony is collapsing.

One of the most striking findings of the study is that elephant dung provides critical protection for ebony seeds. Seeds deposited within dung were 8.5 times less likely to be eaten by rodents and herbivores than those lying exposed on the forest floor. The dung acts as both a shield and a fertiliser – reducing predation while improving soil conditions for germination.

In contrast, in areas without elephants, the fallen fruits rot beneath the mother tree or are quickly consumed by rodents such as Emin’s pouched rats (Cricetomys emini) and by herbivores like yellow-backed duikers (Cephalophus silvicultor). Few seeds survive long enough to sprout, and those that do often germinate in dense clusters near the parent tree, where they compete for light and nutrients.

Genetic consequences

To understand the longer-term impact of elephant loss, the researchers analysed the genetic relatedness of ebony saplings.

By examining saplings of different ages, the team reconstructed a timeline of ecological decline. Fifty to a hundred years ago, young ebony trees in the study sites were, on average, born hundreds of metres – sometimes kilometres – from their parent trees. Today, in the same forests, that average distance has shrunk to just over 200 metres.

In elephant-free forests, saplings were found to be much more closely related – effectively siblings growing side by side. This indicates that seeds are now falling close to their parent trees rather than being carried long distances. These ebony trees are essentially now reproducing in patterns more typical of plants that rely on gravity, not animals, to disperse their seeds.

The loss of genetic mixing reduces the trees’ ability to adapt to disease, pests, and climate change. Over generations, such inbreeding could significantly weaken the resilience of ebony populations.

Elephants as forest engineers

Forest elephants influence their environment in numerous ways, extending beyond the dispersal of seeds. By trampling vegetation and feeding selectively on specific species, they shape the structure of tropical forests. They tend to favour slow-growing, dense-wooded trees – such as ebony – while suppressing the dominance of fast-growing, light-wooded species. This process increases the overall carbon storage capacity of forests.

Historically, forest elephants occupied the entire Congo Basin. Today, their range has shrunk to fragmented pockets, with populations surviving in a fraction of their former distribution due to years of intense poaching and habitat loss.

The disappearance of elephants is expected to change forest composition over time, shifting ecosystems to become less carbon-dense and less biodiverse. The study highlights that these are not abstract ecological changes, but measurable transformations already underway in the Congo Basin.

Because ebony trees grow extremely slowly – barely 1.7 millimetres in diameter per year – the effects of elephant decline take decades to become visible. Many of today’s mature ebony trees germinated when elephants were still widespread. The current lack of saplings represents a delayed ecological crisis: the signs of collapse may not be fully apparent for another century.

Forest elephant — Forest architects at work – elephants shape ecosystems with every step. Photo © Markus Gmeiner via iNaturalist (CC BY-NC).

This slow pace of change creates a false sense of stability. Forests may appear intact today, but the absence of regeneration means that their long-term future is in jeopardy. The study’s authors warn that by the time these effects become apparent, the loss of both elephants and ebony could be irreversible.

While the research focuses on ebony, it reflects a broader pattern across tropical ecosystems. An estimated 70–90% of tropical tree species depend on animals for seed dispersal. As large vertebrates disappear, entire plant communities lose their primary regeneration mechanisms.

The study therefore serves as a warning: defaunation – the loss of large animal species – can trigger cascading effects on biodiversity, forest structure, and carbon storage. Protecting elephants, then, is not only a matter of conserving a charismatic species but also of maintaining the ecological processes that sustain tropical forests.

Want to see forest elephants in their natural habitats on an African safari? You can see forest elephants in Congo Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park while on safari with Africa Geographic. Or, browse our other African safari ideas here.

Protecting two resources at once

Ebony is among the first African timbers to have been exploited commercially, and it remains economically valuable. Combined with poaching and deforestation, this makes the species even more vulnerable. The research shows that elephant conservation indirectly supports the long-term sustainability of ebony and other valuable hardwoods.

According to the study, this mutual dependence holds a conservation message: protecting elephants safeguards trees that are crucial for both ecosystems and human populations. The continued loss of elephants will lead to the gradual decline of valuable timber resources and the forests’ ability to regenerate themselves.

A call for urgent action

The study concludes that the relationship between elephants and ebony represents the interconnectedness of tropical ecosystems. Once elephants disappear from a forest, the ecological functions they perform – seed dispersal, soil enrichment, vegetation control – vanish with them.

Given the current pace of poaching and habitat loss, the authors warn that the Congo Basin may soon lose one of its most crucial forest engineers. The long-term outcome would be a quieter, simpler forest – one less capable of supporting the diversity and richness that define it today.

*Cover photo: Forest elephants in Cameroon, Photo © Jacob Fahr via iNaturalist CC-BY-NC.

Reference

Deblauwe, V., Luskin, M.S., Assola, S.D., Hardy, O.J….Jansen, S., (2025). Declines of ebony and ivory are inextricably linked in an African rainforest. Science Advances, 11(35), doi:10.1126/sciadv

Further reading

Good news: there are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed – first countrywide elephant population estimate in 30 years. Read more about Gabon’s forest elephants here
Forest elephant numbers are believed to have plummeted 86% in just 31 years, yet their role in maintaining forest ecosystems is critical. Read more about these endangered gardeners here.
Research has uncovered population density declines of 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants across Africa in 53 years. Read more about this alarming study here.
Stunning high-definition camera trap images reveal Nouabalé-Ndoki’s hidden creatures, including golden cat, leopard, forest elephant and palm civet. Check out these portraits of Congo’s ghosts here

THIS WEEK – 10 October 2025

Elephant culling debate + top Cape safari spots + Mara photo safari

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

Here is the most important article if you want to understand the complexity of the debates raging about culling elephants. Find the story lower down in this newsletter.

Based on local murmurings, the “cull elephants” pressure is very high from some landowners in the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) that share an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park. I have noticed a growing discontent with elephants that have hammered large trees such as knobthorns and marulas. As an aside, how ironic that those opposed to elephant culling have historically been referred to as “tree huggers”…

These murmurings border on naked disdain for elephants by some wealthy landowners who wield significant influence over management decisions.

Most people argue this debate emotionally, focusing on symptoms rather than causes. For example, many elephants in the APNR no longer roam over large distances because every landowner has installed one or more artificial watering points to attract elephants and other wildlife. In fact, elephants are attracted to the APNR due to its easy access to water. The APNR has become a sink for elephants. Elephants congregating in the APNR is a symptom. The causes include man-made waterholes.

Africa-wide, we know that African elephant densities have crashed during the last 53 years (90% down for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants). We also know that increasing numbers of elephants are congregating in certain areas, such as northern Botswana and the APNR, typically due to water and food availability, as well as human pressure elsewhere. “Too many elephants” is a common, and locally accurate, phrase summarising this conundrum.

Now that the man-made waterhole tactic is successful and the APNR serves as a concentration zone for elephants, the plan I am hearing is to, again, cull some of the “offending” elephants on an annual basis. Create a sink for an IUCN-listed endangered species and then shoot them. Think about that as a conservation strategy. Of course, I am oversimplifying this multi-layered situation to ensure we see the wood for the trees, so to speak.

Many APNR landowners generated their wealth elsewhere and view their investment in APNR land as an emotional conservation decision. Their investment is a vital aspect of what is a resounding conservation success story bordering the Kruger National Park. BUT, should scientists and land managers be playing second fiddle to these investors when it comes to important decisions like this? Just asking.

Shoh, this is a complex and emotionally-laden topic. Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click below to listen to this editorial

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Good news roars from Cameroon: lions in Bouba Ndjida National Park are breeding again. GPS-collar data confirm multiple lionesses with cubs, a promising sign for one of Africa’s most threatened big cat populations. The northern lion subspecies (Panthera leo leo) once roamed vast tracts of Central Africa. But the subspecies now clings to survival with fewer than 1,000 individuals left.

These cubs represent hope. But survival to adulthood is far from guaranteed. Snaring, poaching, and conflict with herders still claim too many young lions as they disperse beyond park borders. Conservationists are now using real-time tracking to anticipate threats, boost patrols, and deepen collaboration with surrounding communities. Bouba Ndjida may be small, but it remains one of Central Africa’s last lion strongholds. Let us hope that these vulnerable populations can fight their way back!

This week, we look at the debate on elephants and trees in the APNR, and explore the incredible safari experiences that the Cape region has to offer.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

ELEPHANT AND TREES
A new study explores how stakeholder opinions differ on managing elephants, from culling to contraception, in the APNR

CAPE SAFARI
The Cape safari experience: fascinating wildlife and malaria-free protected spaces close to Cape Town and the Garden Route

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Kenya Big 5 – Laikipia & Maasai Mara – 8 days – from US$5,915pps

Explore Kenya’s wild heart on a safari that spans the iconic Maasai Mara and Laikipia. Encounter the Big Five and the rare Samburu Special Five: think Grevy’s zebra, gerenuk, and even striped hyena. Beyond thrilling game drives, enjoy behind-the-scenes conservation experiences, visit the Mara Elephant Project, meet anti-poaching teams, and connect with local Maasai communities. This is Kenya: wild, diverse, and unforgettable.

Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days – from US$10,185pps

Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure date: 20-28 November 2026.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

Our safari guests say…

AG safari guests, Ashleigh and David from the UK, went on an unforgettable Botswana safari:

“A company that goes above and beyond! Could not recommend Africa Geographic highly enough! Christian was fantastic at helping me find the perfect safari option to match our time and budget. He was incredibly patient and thorough with providing lots of fantastic options.

We decided to go for a mobile camping safari in Botswana and, to date, this has got to be one of our best trips! We saw 70 lions, 14 hyenas, 7 African wild dogs, 5 leopards (including a cub!), 2 cheetah and 1 African wild cat – and that’s not even beginning on the numbers of zebra, antelope, elephants, wildebeest and buffalo.

Christian went above and beyond at every stage, even helping us when we had issues with domestic flights in Botswana! Thank you so much for helping us have an unbelievably amazing trip!”

Find your dream safari here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Your safari to Majete Wildlife Reserve can help change lives. By staying at African Parks camps, you directly support local communities, creating jobs, improving healthcare and education, and funding vital conservation efforts. Book your Majete safari through Ukuri, where 100% of tourism revenue goes back to conservation and communities. (0:38) Click here to watch

Cover image: Life is for living. “We are seeing wonderful African wild dog sightings along the rivers in Gonarezhou…” A pack of African wild dogs frolics across shades of grey, mirroring their dappled coats in this acrylic-on-canvas portrait. © Lin Barrie

The Cape safari – off the beaten safari track

Any reference to South Africa’s Cape region is almost guaranteed to bring to mind the famous mountains, glorious coastlines, and spectacular seaside scenery (also wine for the oenophiles). Yet inland from the sandy beaches and coastal forests lies a mosaic of fascinating habitats and protected spaces offering unique wildlife viewing. While South Africa’s safari circuit is dominated mainly by reserves in the northern and eastern parts of the country, the Cape safari experience is fundamentally different but equally enthralling. Here is our round up of some of the best safari spots in South Africa’s Cape region.

The Cape nature experience – the Western and Eastern Cape

There are a variety of diverse wilderness areas in the greater Cape region – specifically within the Western and Eastern Cape. These two adjacent provinces make up the south-western corner of South Africa. Together, they encompass the entire Cape Floristic biome and most of the Karoo ecosystems, right up to the transition with the grasslands of the Lesotho Highlands. Away from the lush greenery fed by temperate ocean climates and sheltered by a network of mountains, the landscape becomes progressively more arid and sparse, giving way to the almost Martian scenery of the Great Karoo.

While this round up of Cape safari destinations focuses on the more “traditional” safari experience – complete with iconic, large wildlife – the entire inland Cape region is a paradise for the enthusiastic naturalist. From ancient fossils, rock art and dramatic landscapes, to intriguing critters in unusual settings, the variety of habitats and animals on offer is guaranteed to captivate and delight.

For the most part, the Cape safari experience is an exclusive one, based around vast swathes of privately owned wilderness areas peppered with a combination of basic and high-end lodges. For those more accustomed to the conventional savannah setting, there is something vaguely incongruous about the sight of an elephant against the austere backdrop of mountains and sparse Karoo vegetation, or the Indian Ocean in the background. Yet, there was a time when the Big 5 (and many other species) roamed throughout the entire Cape region. Over centuries, they have been driven to the verge of extinction by human encroachment, unsustainable hunting practices and human-wildlife conflict. Fortunately, many of the private reserves of the Cape now boast an impressive conservation record and have served a pivotal role in restoring the magnificent creatures of the Cape to their rightful home. As a malaria-free destination, the Cape region is also one of the best safari options for families travelling with children.

Want to visit the Western Cape and Cape Town on safari? Browse our Cape Town safaris here and our Cape Winleands aventures here

Eastern Cape – the greater Addo ecosystem

A view towards the Indian Ocean over the Eastern Cape valley bushveld

Addo Elephant National Park

Tucked away in the Eastern Cape, Addo Elephant National Park is a conservation triumph and a rewarding wildlife destination. It’s a place where elephants roam confidently through rolling thicket, where penguins and whales share the same protected system, and where even the smallest creatures, like the famous flightless dung beetle, command respect. Just 30 minutes from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) and completely malaria-free, Addo offers a seamless mix of classic game viewing and coastal wilderness that few parks can match. First proclaimed in 1931 to save the region’s last 11 elephants, Addo has since expanded to nearly 1790km² (179,000 hectares) of land and more than 70km² (7,000 hectares) of marine reserve, protecting everything from arid Karoo scrub to lush forest and the offshore islands of St Croix and Bird Island. Today it’s South Africa’s only park to host the Big 7: the traditional Big 5 (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, black rhino), combined with the southern right whale and great white shark.

Addo’s varied habitats support an extraordinary range of wildlife: kudu, eland, red hartebeest, Cape mountain zebra and springbok roam the plains, while more than 400 bird species fill the air with sound and colour. Visitors can explore by vehicle or on foot, follow historic 4×4 routes, or hike through the vast Alexandria dunefield that links forest to sea. Whether you come for the elephants, the dunes, or the sense of space and renewal, Addo delivers the full sweep of the Eastern Cape’s wild spirit in one unforgettable park.

Amakhala Game Reserve

The 90km² (9,000 hectares) Amakhala Game Reserve features all of the scenic beauty and wildlife magnificence of Addo, with the added advantage that access is exclusively granted to guests of the various lodges. With awe-inspiring views, relaxed wildlife and a variety of accommodation options to suit most budgets, Amakhala epitomises the appeal of the Eastern Cape safari adventure.

Kariega Game Reserve

Another major destination on the Eastern Cape safari circuit, Kariega Game Reserve is a family-owned and operated 115km² (11,500 hectares) reserve. It is ideally positioned between the Bushman’s and Kariega Rivers, not far from the Sunshine Coast, and boasts a diverse range of habitats and glorious vistas.

The lush, rolling hills are home to the Big 5, as well as antelopes and a myriad of bird species. Visitors can opt to complement the traditional game drives with boat cruises and walking trails. Of particular interest to many of Kariega’s guests is Thandi, a white rhino cow that survived a brutal poaching attempt in 2012. Despite horrific injuries, Thandi went on to make a full recovery and, to date, has given birth to four calves (and is also now a grandma).

Lalibela Game Reserve

Recently rejuvenated, Lalibela Game Reserve offers an exclusive bush experience not far from Addo Elephant NP. The reserve is 100km² (10,500 hectares), and access is exclusive to guests of the lodges. Lalibela shares a similar setting with Addo, with the added advantage that there are substantial areas of open savannah grassland where herds of zebra, red hartebeest, wildebeest and blesbok congregate. Lalibela is also a significant site for cheetah conservation in South Africa.

As is the case for many of the reserves in the area, Lalibela is a vital habitat for South Africa’s national bird, the striking and endangered blue crane.

Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

A private reserve with a proud record of rehabilitation from farmland to restored wilderness, Kwandwe Private Game Reserve straddles the Great Fish River and covers a total area of 300km² (30,000 hectares). This region of the Eastern Cape is topographically dramatic and picturesque and boasts high levels of biodiversity. The reserve has various conservation activities on offer for guests to experience, as well as walking safaris, and plenty of activities for families with young children to enjoy.

Sunset over Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

Shamwari Private Game Reserve

Shamwari Private Game Reserve is probably one of the best-known private reserves in the Cape region and one of the most upmarket on this list. Offering the quintessential safari experience (and checklist), this 250km² (25,000 hectares) award-winning reserve has an impressive conservation record. Situated just 75km from Gqeberha, it shares many habitat similarities with Addo Elephant National Park. It is also home to the Big 5 and cheetah, with the added bonus of regular and reliable leopard sightings.

The reserve is also home to a wildlife rehabilitation centre, which is open for tourists to visit for an educational experience. No interaction with the animals is permitted, and the end goal is to release the animals back into the wild whenever possible.

Cape safari Shamwari — Observing an elephant on foot in Shamwari

Eastern Cape – Karoo safaris

The vast plains of the Eastern Cape Karoo

Camdeboo National Park

Wrapped around the quaint town of Graaff-Reinet is the 194km² (19,400 hectares) Camdeboo National Park in the heart of the Karoo. The gorgeous scenery, with ancient dolerite columns looking out over the Valley of Desolation, is the main attraction here. Don’t be fooled by the name because arid though the area may be, it still teems with life. Shy Cape buffalo are the only representatives of the Big 5, and antelope and zebra abound, as do endlessly entertaining meerkats that call the park home.

However, the Camdeboo experience is mainly about escaping into nature and revelling in the scenery on display, as the shifting clouds and setting sun transforms the rocks through myriad shades of red.

Samara Karoo Reserve

After a couple of days spent enjoying the surroundings of Camdeboo, visitors with a hankering for a safari experience can travel to nearby Samara Karoo Reserve. Gradually assembled from a total of 11 farms, Samara is restoring a patch of wilderness and bringing wildlife back. The reserve now covers 283km² (28,300 hectares) in the Great Karoo, treating visitors to fantastic wildlife sightings and glorious views.

Even at its busiest, Samara only allows for a limited number of guests, making the experience extremely exclusive. Guests can expect sightings of white and black rhinos, elephants, lions, and herds of springbok, but tracking cheetah on foot is one of the reserve’s particular highlights.

For more on Samara’s restoration, see Samara-Rewilding the Great Karoo.

Mountain Zebra National Park

Situated further inland near the town of Cradock, Mountain Zebra National Park was initially established to save the Cape mountain zebra – a subspecies of mountain zebra that was threatened with extinction during the early 20th century. It straddles the transition between Nama Karoo, Albany thicket and the grassland habitats of the central plateau, incorporating the Bankberg Mountians. The park, at a size of 284km² (28,400 hectares) is a population stronghold for the still vulnerable Cape mountain zebras. Small herds are regularly relocated to other reserves to restore this zebra to its former range.

In addition to the park’s namesake animal, further introductions have seen the arrival of black rhinos, cheetahs, brown hyenas and lions that now roam the craggy hills of the park. Away from the scrublands of the Karoo, Mountain Zebra is primarily grassland and open savannah, offering unimpeded views of the wildlife, including herds of springbok, black wildebeest, and gemsbok. In the long term, there are plans to link Mountain Zebra with Camdeboo, creating a massive conservation area.

A zebra foal frolics through the long grasses of the Mountain Zebra National Park grasses

African safaris — The road less travelled, winding its way into the heart of the Bankberg mountains

Western Cape Safaris

The almost incongruous yet stunning view of safari destinations in the Western Cape

Gondwana Game Reserve

Situated along the Garden Route not far from Mossel Bay, the 110km² (11,000 hectares) Gondwana Game Reserve was the first of its kind in the southern Cape region and is a fully free-roaming Big 5 reserve in the Western Cape. Once used for livestock farming, the land is being restored, and today, wildlife abounds. Crucially, Gondwana boasts large areas of fynbos, many species of which are either endangered or critically endangered. In addition to the Big 5, cheetahs stalk through the fynbos and the reserve is also populated by herds of eland, bontebok, giraffe, and zebra.

Against the backdrop of the Langeberg and Outeniqua Mountains, visitors can explore on a game drive, mountain bike or hike on foot with a guide. The particularly adventurous can set off on a three-night trek through the reserve with overnight stays at fly camps along the route.

Karoo National Park

The state-run Karoo National Park covers a little over 750km² (75,000 hectares) of arid and inhospitable-looking Great Karoo terrain. A portion of South Africa’s Great Escarpment (a prominent topographical massif that runs almost the entire width of the country) divides the park into lower and upper sections.

Originally known simply as a convenient stopover for people travelling to or from Cape Town, Karoo National Park has evolved to become the perfect escape for those looking to detox from city life without having to pay ultra-luxury prices. Harsh though the environment may seem, the park has gone from conservation strength to strength. It is now home to black rhinos and lions and an assortment of other rare and critically endangered creatures like the Cape mountain zebra and the riverine rabbit (one of the most endangered mammals in the world), and Verreaux’s eagles nest on the park’s dramatic cliff faces.

The distinct Nama-Karoo landscape of Karoo National Park

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve

In the heart of the Klein Karoo, at the base of the Warmwaterberg Mountains, lies the 620km² (62,000 hectares) Sanbona Wildlife Reserve – one of South Africa’s largest privately-owned reserves. Like the rest of the Karoo, ancient and more recent history is everywhere, including San rock art over 3,500 years old beneath rocky overhangs overlooking breathtaking views. Like many of the other reserves in the Cape area, Sanbona was once farmland, but intensive rehabilitation has restored the land to its former glory, as evidenced by the flourishing wildlife.

The Big 5 are all present, as are cheetahs and brown hyenas, and sightings are made more impressive by the backdrop of magnificent scenery. From guided walks to boat safaris and stargazing to curated children’s programmes, Sanbona has something to offer everyone.

Exploring the otherworldly landscape of the Klein Karoo at Sanbona

West Coast National Park

Just 90 minutes from Cape Town lies the 380km² (38,000 hectares) West Coast National Park, a coastal sanctuary where turquoise waters meet carpets of wildflowers, flamingos, and ancient history. Centred around the dazzling Langebaan Lagoon, West Coast NP protects one of South Africa’s most important wetlands and a fifth of the country’s salt marsh habitat. Each season transforms the park’s mood: from summer’s shimmering heat to spring’s spectacular bloom in the Postberg section, when the dunes erupt in colour and antelope wander among the flowers. Offshore, islands like Malgas and Schaapen host nesting seabirds such as Cape gannets and African penguins, while the surrounding Marine Protected Areas safeguard vital marine life and the delicate coastal ecosystem.

The park is also rich in history: Fossil beds nearby trace life back millions of years, and the park’s most famous relic – the 117,000-year-old Eve’s Footprint discovered at Kraalbaai – offers a rare glimpse into humanity’s deep past. Today, bontebok, eland, Cape mountain zebra, and caracal roam the fynbos and dunes, while over 250 bird species fill the skies and shoreline, making it one of South Africa’s premier birding destinations. Whether hiking through flower fields, cycling to the Seeberg viewpoint, or swimming at Preekstoel’s sheltered cove, the park invites slow exploration and quiet awe. Its Postberg wildflower zone is crucial for fynbos conservation. And why not pop into Langebaan for some fine dining while you’re at it?

The Cape Winelands – to end off your safari

And lastly, no Cape safari is complete without a final stopover in the Cape Winelands – a landscape of rolling vineyards, oak-lined lanes and mountain backdrops that feels like the natural continuation of any Cape journey. Just a short drive from Cape Town, this region blends old-world charm with modern indulgence. Historic estates in Constantia, Stellenbosch, Paarl, Robertson and Franschhoek (South Africa’s gourmet capital) tell stories of centuries-old vineyards and Cape Dutch homesteads, while offering tastings of award-winning wines paired with artisanal chocolate, cheeses and olives. Beneath the shade of ancient oaks or on terraces overlooking vine-covered valleys, every meal becomes a celebration of place.

Whether you join a guided tour or explore at your own pace, the Winelands promise both sophistication and serenity. Spend a night or two to soak in the romance of country life, where fine food, art galleries and boutique cellars are framed by mountains glowing gold at sunset. With its Mediterranean climate and easy proximity to Cape Town, this is the perfect add-on to a Cape safari – a chance to trade the call of the wild for the clink of a wine glass, without ever leaving the rhythm of the land.

The ultimate Cape safari experience

The Cape safari experience offers adventures that are refreshingly different to the more renowned safari destinations elsewhere in Africa. The weather is generally good throughout the year (though the reserves can get very cold during winter), and the scenery is alluring and presents the perfect backdrop for diverse wildlife sightings. The wilderness areas are easily accessible and malaria-free, and the entire safari can be easily combined with a tour of the Garden Route, Winelands or Cape Town.

Further reading

The city of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Cape Town to-do list
Cape Town – South Africa’s Mother City – offers a blend of a nature-lover’s playground, modern city lifestyle, cultural diversity and foodie heaven. Read more about Cape Town here

Elephants and trees: the Kruger debate

Managing elephants in South Africa’s protected areas is one of conservation’s most persistent dilemmas. Elephants are a keystone species that shape ecosystems – opening landscapes, dispersing seeds, and maintaining biodiversity. But some studies identify elephants as the main drivers of large-tree loss in African savannahs, especially when their populations go unchecked. A new study on Kruger elephants explores how the opinions and strategies of managers, landowners, and tourists differ on managing elephant impacts, from culling to contraception and protecting large trees.

In the reserves of the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), which form part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem and share an open boundary with Kruger National Park, elephant numbers have increased sharply – from about 500 in 1993 to between 2,000 and 3,000 today. At the same time, large trees have declined, especially in areas dense with artificial waterholes. This trend has created concern among reserve managers, landowners, and tourism operators, all of whom depend on a balance between elephants, vegetation, and visitor experience.

A study published in the European Journal of Wildlife Research by Cook, Witkowski, and Henley (2025) explores how the insights and opinions of conservation managers, landowners, tourists, and guides differ on elephant management – from culling and contraception to closing waterholes. It reveals a clash of ethics, economics, and ecology that shapes how Africa balances its giants and trees – and challenges one-size-fits-all conservation thinking.

The legacy of Kruger elephants

Between 1967 and 1994, more than 14,000 elephants were culled in Kruger National Park to maintain a population “carrying capacity”. That policy ended under international pressure, allowing numbers to increase rapidly to more than 30,000 today.

The removal of fences between Kruger and the APNR in 1993 allowed elephants to roam freely into the private reserves. However, because these reserves maintain a much higher density of artificial waterholes than Kruger – roughly 2.5 per km² versus Kruger’s 0.1 per km² – elephants spend more time concentrated in smaller areas. The result: persistent browsing and bark-stripping that kill large, old trees, some of which are crucial for nesting birds, shade, and tourism value. However, elephant feeding is not purely destructive. By dispersing seeds in their dung and opening up dense vegetation, elephants promote plant diversity and maintain grassland habitats. Still, because elephants favour certain tree species and sizes, sustained browsing can remove specific tree types or height classes from an area, affecting other species that depend on large trees for nesting.

This situation, often called “the elephant problem,” forces managers to weigh ecological science against ethical and economic considerations.

Elephant culling trees kruger — An elephant browses beneath ancient baobabs in Kruger – shaping the landscape

The study

Researchers surveyed 170 stakeholders in the APNR – including conservation managers, property owners, tourism staff, and visitors – to gauge support for four strategies to reduce elephant impacts on trees: waterhole closures, to disperse elephants naturally; tree protection, such as wire-netting or beehive deterrents; contraception, to limit population growth, and culling, to reduce numbers directly.

Respondents rated these approaches using a five-point scale and were invited to comment on their reasoning. The analysis examined how age, experience, gender, and stakeholder role influenced views on each option.

Shared concern, divided solutions

Almost all respondents agreed that elephants and large trees are both valuable. 97% said elephants contribute to tourism, and 96% supported protecting large trees on both ecological and aesthetic grounds.

However, while most acknowledged that elephants damage trees, fewer believed there are “too many elephants.” Many saw tree loss as a natural ecological process rather than a crisis. This tension – between recognising ecological impact and resisting population control – runs throughout the study.

elephant waterhole kruger — Elephants gather at a Kruger waterhole

Managing Kruger elephants: what people support

Waterhole closure received the strongest support overall (59%), especially among younger conservation managers, who viewed it as a natural and ecologically sound approach. They argued that reducing artificial water availability would restore seasonal movement patterns and relieve localised pressure on trees.

Tourism operators were less convinced, worrying that closing waterholes could reduce wildlife sightings and, by extension, visitor satisfaction. The economic risk of “fewer elephants to see” weighed heavily against perceived ecological benefits.

Tree protection methods, such as wire-netting or beehives, were popular with property owners and tourists (77% support). They were seen as practical and non-lethal, as they protect iconic trees while maintaining tourism appeal. But respondents also commented on limitations: these methods are labour-intensive, costly, and unrealistic at scale. Participants observed that “it’s not realistic to protect every tree this way”. This highlights the gap between local success and landscape-wide impact.

Contraception divided opinion sharply (43% support). Tourists were generally in favour, seeing it as humane and consistent with modern conservation ethics. Long-term stakeholders, particularly older landowners and conservation managers, were more sceptical. They questioned whether large-scale contraceptive programmes are feasible in the wild, citing cost, logistics, and uncertainty about social effects on elephant herds.

Culling was the most contentious option. Just over half of respondents (51%) agreed it would reduce tree damage, but culling also brought strong ethical opposition. This was especially true among tourists. Older respondents in the study were more likely to support culling, recalling its past effectiveness. Conservation managers viewed it as a pragmatic, if undesirable, tool for population control. Others rejected it outright as incompatible with modern conservation values and harmful to South Africa’s tourism image.

Are you keen to see the elephants of South Africa’s Greater Kruger? Check out these amazing safari ideas to Greater Kruger.

What influences opinions

The study found clear demographic divides. Age and experience mattered. For example, those over 50, who had lived through the culling era, were more supportive of lethal control. Younger respondents preferred adaptive, non-lethal management – reflecting a shift towards “compassionate conservation,” which emphasises welfare as well as ecology.

Gender also played a role in stakeholder opinions: men were more likely to support culling than women. Tourism stakeholders tended to prioritise visitor experience, while conservation managers focused on ecological function.

The study showed many conservation managers were in favour of waterhole closures. Property owners favoured non-lethal options like tree protection and contraception. Tourists clustered almost entirely around non-lethal preferences.

Elephant trees culling — Feeding on branches in Kruger

A values-based approach to managing Kruger elephants

The study concludes that there is no single “correct” strategy for managing elephants and trees. Instead, management should be adaptive and values-based – combining scientific monitoring with social acceptability.

While ecological data can identify when intervention is needed (for example, when tree loss exceeds thresholds), stakeholder values determine which interventions are socially sustainable. In the APNR, this might mean a mix of localised tree protection, selective waterhole management, and population control through contraception, with lethal measures considered only as a last resort.

The study also highlights the importance of communication and education. Misunderstandings about the feasibility of contraception, or the ecological outcomes of waterhole closures, suggest a need for ongoing dialogue between managers, landowners, and visitors.

The broader lesson

Elephant management is often portrayed as a technical problem, but this research shows it is equally a social one. Decisions about waterholes, contraception, or culling are shaped by ethics, economics, and experience as much as by ecology.

By documenting these perspectives, the authors provide a framework for balancing scientific objectives with human values – a critical step in ensuring long-term coexistence between elephants, large trees, and the people invested in both.

Reference

Cook, R.M., Witkowski, E.T.F., & Henley, M.D. (2025). “Stakeholder values on the management of African elephants for large tree conservation in protected areas.” European Journal of Wildlife Research, 71:104

Further reading

Research says Kruger’s elephant numbers have been underestimated, with improved aerial surveys revealing a growing population of elephants
Research shows that wire-netting can be used to significantly increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on large trees. Check out the study on this net win here
Discover the surprising link between carbon markets & elephants: how protecting Africa’s miombo woodlands benefits both climate & wildlife
Elephants feeding on fan palm trees are preventing the palms from reaching full size & reproductive potential in Kruger NP, says a study

THIS WEEK – 3 October 2025

Saving chimps + Odzala safari romance + epic wildlife photo gallery

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

She said yes! One of our guests just got engaged while on safari in the intoxicating forests of Congo-Brazzaville – sending my team into raptures.

The privately shared video taken by him as he dropped to his knee and fumbled his words had me hanging on with bated breath, and her reaction was priceless. Dropping her water bottle with a loud clunk, she stammered her acceptance …

That they were on the elevated wooden platform of their tented suite in Odzala-Kokoua National Park at the time made the moment even more special. How epic to share that special moment in such a remote location, with that gorgeous forest backdrop? And, after several sightings of western lowland gorillas, forest elephants and forest buffalo!

One of the group had this to say when I asked for her favourite moment:

“Hard to choose, it was such a great trip! My favourites: The spotted hyena with its kill on the road that surprised us when driving to Moba. Hearing chimpanzees at Moba Beach‘s mirador while having a freshly made omelette and potato pancake… it felt very luxurious at this beautifully remote place. The baby gorilla taking cover in its mum‘s arms during the rain. Sunbirds and crocodiles. The rain forest hikes, boat trips and the swim in the Lokoue River.”

Meanwhile, we are crafting our portfolio of Bush & Beach safari ideas for 2026 – anybody fancy some toes-in-the-sand time to wash off the dust of your bushveld safari? While you are there, put aside precious time to search for whale sharks, manta rays and dugongs.

Safari njema, good people, and keep the passion!

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click below to listen to this editorial

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Verreaux’s sifaka – the sideways-hopping lemur known for its dance moves – has just been named on the World’s 25 Most Endangered Primates list. This is an urgent wake-up call for forests too often overlooked.

The charismatic lemur’s home – Madagascar’s dry forests – are also home to baobabs, rare birds and many other unique lemurs. But they are vanishing under the weight of farming, fires, logging, and hunger-driven bushmeat hunting. The Ankoatsifaka Initiative for Dry Forests, a coalition of NGOs, scientists, and government voices, are determined to flip the script. By rallying behind the sifaka, they aim to boost patrols, support communities, and safeguard a landscape vital for both people and wildlife. The sifaka’s role as a seed disperser makes it a builder of forests and futures. If the “dancing lemur” can capture global imagination, Madagascar’s dry forests might just step into the spotlight where they belong – bringing much needed awareness to their plight.

This week, we bring you a visual feast and a fight for the future: 10 years of Remembering Wildlife photography, and Tacaguma Chimpanzee Sanctuary’s frontline battle to save chimps in Sierra Leone.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

WILDLIFE PHOTOS
Discover 10 years of Remembering Wildlife: world-class photography driving conservation and protecting endangered species

SAVING CHIMPS
Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary leads Sierra Leone’s fight for chimp conservation – an inspiring story shaping the future

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Cape Town | Greater Kruger | Victoria Falls – 11 days – from ZAR136,365pps

Expect to be romanced, seduced and awed by three prime locations and effortless luxury. This exquisitely crafted 11-day luxury journey through Southern Africa combines the vibrant culture and scenic beauty of Cape Town and its renowned Winelands, with the unparalleled Big Five safari experience of the Greater Kruger and the iconic Victoria Falls – The Smoke That Thunders.

Botswana wildlife safari & Victoria Falls – 9 days – from US$5,560pps

This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai in the eastern reaches of the Okavango Delta, and Chobe National Park in Botswana, with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

Spots on the line: A leopard’s journey

Has a long-lost leopard been spotted? The leopard known as the “Lion Pan male” was once a familiar sight in Kapama Game Reserve in Limpopo, South Africa. But he mysteriously vanished in April 2024. For more than a year, his fate was unknown.

But the Ingwe Research Program, which is on a mission to save the leopards of Hoedspruit, has just confirmed his presence in Makalali Game Reserve. This, after they received new images from Siyafunda (a wildlife conservation and community development organisation in Makalali). Ingwe’s researchers used AI to sift through the more than 14,000 photos in minutes, and were able to confirm the sighting. The Lion Pan male had resurfaced, an astonishing 57km away from his original home range – the longest recorded dispersal in the program’s history.

This milestone highlights both the power of AI and the reach of the Ingwe network, which now includes over 45 partner lodges and reserves working together to monitor and conserve leopard populations. Each data point expands our understanding of leopard ecology, survival, and movement across fragmented landscapes.

You can support Ingwe’s work by joining our Spots on the Line campaign, and help to secure a future for Africa’s most elusive big cats.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

In honour of the life and work of the late, great Jane Goodall: See how the zoologist, primatologist and chimpanzee expert’s passion for wildlife and unshakable drive have persevered and set an example for future generations. (01:28:49) Click here to watch

Cover photo: Forged in the fires of creation. A white rhino mother and calf return to a nearby waterhole just before sunset, after resting in the heat of the day. Botswana. © James Gifford

Photographer of the Year 2021 Runner-up

Remembering Wildlife: A decade of wildlife photography for conservation

In the quiet predawn light of Timbavati, a Temminck’s pangolin slowly unfurls from its rolled-up armour. Across ecosystems, photographers have documented encounters like these: desert lions rediscovering ancient hunting skills on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast; a litter of 17 African wild dog pups emerging from the den for the first time in the Kruger. Each image tells a story of survival, resilience, and the unseen battles faced by wildlife.

Marking a decade of conservation through the eyes of the world’s finest wildlife photographers, the latest edition in the Remembering Wildlife series, 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife, shines a light on species most in need of protection. From elephants to pangolins, this 10th volume celebrates not just extraordinary wildlife photography but a global commitment to safeguarding animals and their habitats.

The images are more than art – they are urgent messages from the natural world. Mountain gorillas in Bwindi display playful defiance against the odds. A photographer tracks an endangered pangolin as it forages in the undergrowth. Elephants traverse drought-stricken landscapes in Amboseli, searching for life-giving waters. Through these encounters, Remembering Wildlife reveals both the fragility and tenacity of life.

The series is the vision of photographer and conservation champion Margot Raggett, whose determination to speak for animals has united some of the world’s best photographers and conservationists. What began with a single book, Remembering Elephants in 2016, has grown into a series of ten, including Remembering Rhinos (2017), Great Apes (2018), Lions (2019), Cheetahs (2020), African Wild Dogs (2021), Bears (2022), Leopards (2023), and Tigers (2024). To date, the series has sold over 55,000 books, raising more than £1.26 million (US$1.58 million) for 80 conservation projects in 34 countries across the world.

This year’s edition is the largest yet, including 200 pages and featuring images from renowned names in wildlife photography such as James Gifford, Tristan Dicks (who captured the cover photo), and Jonathan & Angela Scott, who also contributed the foreword. The book is divided into two sections: a retrospective of iconic images from past volumes, and a new section showcasing the world’s most trafficked mammal, the pangolin. Among these are 20 images selected through a global competition, offering rare insight into a creature most people will never encounter. All profits from the book support pangolin conservation.

Pangolins have roamed the Earth for 80 million years, yet over the past decade, more than a million have been removed from the wild, primarily for scales used in traditional medicine and meat as a delicacy, mostly in Asia. They also face habitat loss and electrocution, as their instinct to curl into a ball can prove fatal against electric fences. Margot Raggett explains:

“Pangolins are fascinating and endearing creatures, closely related to mongooses and cats, each with its own character. The scale of the illegal trade is likely higher than we realise, but there are dedicated conservationists, researchers, vets, and volunteers working tirelessly to protect them. This book supports those efforts.”

Collaboration lies at the heart of Remembering Wildlife. Many projects funded by the series are proposed by photographers themselves, and all work closely with local NGOs, researchers, and communities. Beyond protecting animals, these initiatives educate and empower people to safeguard wildlife for the next generation.

Want to see magnificent wildlife on an African safari? Search for your perfect safari here. Or let us build one just for you. We donate a portion of every safari sold to selected conservation efforts at ground level.

As the series reaches its 10-year milestone, its legacy is visible not just in books but on the ground: safer landscapes, empowered communities, and wildlife given a fighting chance. Margot reflects:

“The project has grown far beyond what I imagined when I started. The community it has created, the momentum for conservation – it’s humbling and a true privilege. This book reminds us of what could be lost if we don’t act and supports those on the frontlines protecting our planet’s wildlife.”

10 Years of Remembering Wildlife is a call to action, a testament to resilience, and a tribute to the species that cannot speak for themselves.

**Below, enjoy a selection of photos from 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife:**

wildlife photography — Photographer Pedro Amaral says: “This photo was taken on January 1, 2022, in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – an unforgettable way to begin the year. A solo trip, long delayed by the pandemic, turned into a leap of faith: three days, three gorilla treks. That morning, rangers offered me the chance to visit a distant gorilla family alone, which meant a longer, more demanding hike. I didn’t hesitate. For a full hour, I observed the group in silence, captivated by the young gorillas and their playful energy. Their carefree behaviour reflects a larger conservation success: mountain gorillas are the only great ape whose numbers are increasing.” Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

About 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife

10 Years of Remembering Wildlife is the 10th book in the celebrated Remembering Wildlife fundraising series, which has raised more than £1.2 million GBP (€1.55 million USD) for conservation projects since it began in 2016.

The aim of the creators is to make the most beautiful book ever seen on the particular species they cover. These books, in turn, raise awareness of the plight facing the species featured, and funds to protect it. Each book is full of images generously donated by many of the world’s top wildlife photographers, with 94 contributing this year. All profits from the sale of this book will be donated to projects working to protect pangolins in the wild. Read more and order the book here: www.rememberingwildlife.com

Check out more epic wildlife photography galleries here:

Botswana’s Mashatu is home to giant vistas, elephants, cats & birdlife. Discover Mashatu’s magic through the photos of Roger & Pat de la Harpe
Scott Ramsay’s Spirit of Africa explores the continent’s essence through powerful images, moving stories & a call to protect her wilderness. Check out his gallery here
Stunning high-definition camera trap images reveal Nouabalé-Ndoki’s hidden creatures, including golden cat, leopard and palm civet. Check out these epic photos here

Saving Sierra Leone’s chimpanzees: Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary

High in the misty hills above Freetown, the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary has become a beacon of hope for Sierra Leone’s most iconic species. Here, 123 rescued western chimpanzees live in safety, their stories a testament to both the brutality of human exploitation and the extraordinary power of compassion. Tacugama is more than a refuge – it is a symbol of resilience, a rallying point for conservation, and a glimpse into the future of chimpanzee tourism in Africa.

It was still early as I wound my way up the narrow, forest-lined road into the hills above Freetown, Sierra Leone’s capital city. The city’s bustle faded behind me, replaced by the hum of cicadas and the faint sound of water – perhaps a small stream or a distant waterfall. Then, just as the mist began to lift from the canopy, I heard it, a chorus of whoops and pant-hoots rising from the trees. I had arrived at Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, home to 123 rescued western chimpanzees.

From the viewing platform near the nursery, I watched as young chimps swung between ropes, wrestled in the grass, and sprawled in the morning sun. It was a scene of energy and playfulness, but also of survival. Every chimp here carries a story of loss, and every one of these lives is a testament to the work being done, by some very committed individuals, in this small corner of Sierra Leone.

Chimpanzees – a species under threat

Sierra Leone’s forests are disappearing at an alarming rate. Since 2000, the country has lost an estimated 35% of its forest cover, and in some areas, more than 80% has gone. These forests are home to the critically endangered western chimpanzee, a subspecies found in only a handful of West African countries.

In the 1970s, there were an estimated 20,000 chimpanzees in Sierra Leone. By 2008, only 5,500 remained. Some had lost out to agriculture, logging, and the development of roads and infrastructure. Others had fallen victim to the bushmeat trade or been trafficked as illegal pets, usually in appalling conditions.

The beginning of Tacugama

In 1988, Bala and Sharmila Amarasekaran were travelling through the Sierra Leonean countryside, 250km from Freetown, when they saw an emaciated young chimpanzee tied to a tree. “The first moment he looked at us and hugged us, we knew we couldn’t leave him there. We knew if we left this little guy behind, he would die,” Bala recalls. They paid $20 for him, took him home, and named him Bruno.

What they thought was a single rescue quickly becomes something more. One rescued chimp soon became seven, all of whom were housed in a makeshift shelter in their Freetown garden. In dire need of space, Bala and Sharmila begin lobbying for land to build a proper sanctuary. After six years of persistence, they were finally granted 40 hectares in Sierra Leone’s Western Area Peninsula National Park, a narrow chain of hills and pristine rainforest in the heart of the Freetown peninsula. In 1995, Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary was born.

Building a chimpanzee refuge

As news of Tacugama spread, more chimps began arriving, some surrendered voluntarily, others confiscated under Sierra Leone’s Wildlife Conservation Act. Many bore the scars of their past: missing hands from snares, deep lacerations from abuse, or a fearful mistrust of humans after being torn from their mothers. Tacugama became a haven for them all, providing them with a second chance at life.

Within two years, the sanctuary had 24 chimpanzees, all of whom had been rescued from desperate situations. Bala and his team continue working through the challenges of building facilities in the forest, all the while navigating the country’s political instability. Over the coming years, they would steer Tacugama through Sierra Leone’s 11-year civil war, military coups, the Ebola crisis, and the Covid-19 pandemic; never ceasing in their efforts to rescue and protect chimpanzees.

A national symbol

Renowned primatologist and zoologist Jane Goodall visited Tacugama in 2006, lending her global influence to raising the sanctuary’s profile and championing its conservation work. Her support helped inspire a movement that, after years of advocacy by Tacugama, finally led, in 2019, to the chimpanzee being officially declared Sierra Leone’s national animal and the new face of the country’s tourism.

It was a celebratory moment for Tacugama. “This was great for us,” says Aram Kazandjian, Tacugama’s development manager. “The government prioritised chimp protection. Being the national animal meant it was prohibited to kill, sell, eat, or keep them at home.” But as Bala tells me, this was not the end of the battle. It was the start of a new challenge: turning symbolic protection into lasting change. “It took us 25 years to get them declared the national animal,” he says. “But now it’s about taking pride in that and seeing how we can carry this legacy forward and protect the species”.

Beyond the sanctuary

While Tacugama provides lifelong care for over 123 chimpanzees, its mission extends far beyond the sanctuary’s fences. Through the Tacugama Community Outreach Program (TCOP), the organisation works in seven of Sierra Leone’s districts, promoting sustainable land use, discouraging hunting, encouraging coexistence between people and wildlife, and most importantly, fostering a national conversation about conservation – all initiatives designed to help protect wild chimpanzees, so that more don’t end up at the sanctuary.

Programmes involve practical measures, such as planting cash crops like cocoa, coffee, and cashews in buffer zones, to provide income for communities, while reducing pressure on forests. In addition, education programmes in local schools and villages aim to instil pride in protecting chimpanzees and their habitats.

But getting local communities to buy into chimpanzee protection takes patience. For people struggling to feed their families and send their children to school, conservation is often a luxury they can’t afford.

Precious, Little Prince, and the cost of survival

Despite these efforts, the need for rescues continues. In the nursery, Precious, a female estimated to be less than two years old, was found after poachers killed her family. She carries a pellet lodged in her chest, likely from a stray bullet aimed at her mother.

Another youngster, Little Prince, arrived after being kept by a Freetown social media influencer. Before that, he’d been found clinging to his dead mother’s body, which was caught in a hunter’s trap.

These two youngsters are fortunate to have found a home at Tacugama, but their lives will never be as free and wild as they should be. Since 1995, Tacugama has rescued and rehabilitated more than 200 western chimpanzees. These sad stories are a stark reminder of what Bala calls “the grim equation”: for every chimpanzee that reaches the sanctuary, eight to ten will have died in the wild – the 123 chimps currently at Tacugama may well represent the death of at least 1,000 others.

Present crisis: A sanctuary closed in protest

In May 2025, Tacugama made international headlines by closing its gates to tourists in protest at unchecked deforestation and land grabbing in the sanctuary’s buffer zone.

Tacugama occupies land that was once “community forest” – land that could be used freely by anyone under traditional laws. However, in 2012, the land on which the sanctuary is situated, along with a surrounding buffer zone, was designated a national park. This status prohibits private land development. Despite this, illegal construction and logging continued, eroding the sanctuary’s buffer zone and encroaching dangerously close to its boundaries. “Within the national park boundaries, you will find a range of both completed and incomplete structures – from permanent residences to commercial outlets and entertainment facilities like bars. Many of the buildings are still under construction, but a significant amount of land clearance has already taken place,” says Sidikie Bayoh, Tacugama’s communications officer.

Sierra Leone’s weak rule of law, combined with its population growth and the demands of a burgeoning metropolis, is gnawing at Tacugama’s edges. Attacks in the form of arson, illegal construction, vandalism and threats, all steadily intensified until there was no choice but to close the sanctuary, until law and order could be restored. As Bala puts it, “It’s really threatening the sanctuary’s existence… because it’s too dangerous when people come close to a wildlife preserve like this.”

Government response and future outlook

After months of petitioning, Bala has finally gained some traction, even meeting with the country’s president, Julius Maada Wonie Bio. “The president was furious when he saw the pictures I showed him,” Bala says, “But the real issue here is that there are already policies in place, the government already creates departments to address this. There are already people being paid with taxpayers’ money to prevent land encroachment… They should be ashamed. I shouldn’t have to go to the president for something like this,” he continues, shaking his head in despair.

While Sierra Leonean authorities have acknowledged the problem, there is frustration at the slow pace of enforcement. The government launched a crackdown, installing boundary markers, engaging local communities, and conducting raids on illegal logging operations. But follow-up was lacking, and the loggers and other trespassers returned.

Tacugama’s closure is not silence – it’s a cry for help to save both forest and species

Why Tacugama matters, NOW

Tacugama is more than a refuge; it’s a bellwether. As one of West Africa’s most established chimpanzee sanctuaries, it has become a symbol of Sierra Leone’s potential for wildlife protection, ecotourism, and national pride.

Sanctuaries like Tacugama are the frontline of triage, rescuing victims of the pet trade and snares, rehabilitating the rehabilitatable, and keeping the conservation crisis visible. Their education, policy advocacy and community programmes reduce the flow of orphaned chimps and safeguard the forests that wild populations depend on.

Many travellers come to Africa with dreams of trekking through forests to see chimpanzees in the wild. But those same forests are shrinking fast, and the chimpanzees that depend on them face mounting threats from poaching, trafficking, the pet trade, and habitat loss. This is why chimp conservation, and awareness of their plight, matters so deeply to anyone passionate about primates. Sanctuaries like Tacugama play a critical role in rescuing victims, educating the public, and fighting for stronger protection of both species and forest. The fact that Tacugama’s own buffer zone is under threat from encroachment, even within a protected national park, is a stark reminder of how urgent this fight has become

Tacugama’s closure is not an act of defiance, but a desperate appeal. Its fate rests with those willing to protect its forests and defend the ideals on which it was created. For now, the sanctuary remains quiet – home to chimps, but empty of visitors – still fighting for survival, and for the hope of opening its doors again.

Interested in seeing chimpanzees in the wild? Join Africa Geographic on a chimpanzee-trekking safari – to empower communities and safeguard conservation in Africa. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

Tacaguma Chimp Sanctuary — Eyes that tell a story: a rescued chimp stares out, a reminder of what’s at stake

What can you do for chimpanzees?

For safari enthusiasts, supporting chimp conservation isn’t only about where you can trek for chimps today; it’s about ensuring there will still be chimps to meet tomorrow. You can make a tangible difference by backing organisations that defend habitat, curb trafficking and invest in community livelihoods—work that reduces the very pressures creating sanctuary orphans. When you do book chimp trekking elsewhere in Africa, choose operators that follow strict primate-welfare protocols (limited group sizes, minimum viewing distances, no contact or feeding, health screening/masking where required) and that direct fees into conservation and community benefit. Ethical choices upstream translate into fewer rescues downstream. Consider pairing any future trekking plans with a contribution to sanctuary and landscape protection funds. The most meaningful chimp encounter is the one your choices help make possible.

A story of hope

In a country often internationally associated with its hardships, Tacugama is a symbol of resilience for both people and wildlife. The image of Bruno, the first rescued chimpanzee, now appears on the national passport, a reminder of how far the sanctuary has come since that day in 1988.

And while the challenges remain immense, Tacugama has shown that determined, sustained action can make a difference. For nearly three decades, its small but dedicated team has been working to ensure that Sierra Leone’s chimpanzees have a future.

As Bala puts it: “We can’t save every chimpanzee, but we can change the story for this species in Sierra Leone. And that’s worth everything.”

Further reading

How DRC’s endangered chimpanzees end up in a billionaire’s Indian zoo: Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action. Read more here.
Discover how new research reveals striking similarities between chimpanzee and human communication, deepening our understanding of primates. Read more about their human-like conversations here
Discover the complex world of chimpanzees—their behaviour, threats, and survival – in this in-depth species study

THIS WEEK – 26 September 2025

Boozy chimps + Great Migration debate + wild dog hotspots

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

It turns out that our primate ancestors enjoyed cheeky tipples long before humans raised their first glass. New research has found that wild chimpanzees in Côte d’Ivoire and Uganda consume the alcohol equivalent of a daily bottle of lager: from eating naturally fermented fruit.

This finding fuels the so-called “drunken monkey” hypothesis: that our own fondness for a sundowner may be an inherited taste from primate ancestors who learned that overripe figs and plums pack both sugar and spirit. But the chimps aren’t getting drunk. The alcohol levels, while measurable, aren’t enough to impair survival or cause hangovers. Instead, scientists suggest the behaviour strengthens social bonds as the chimps gather to enjoy the fallen fruit.

So next time you sip a cold one, raise it to the original foragers. And if you’d like to see these fruit-ferment aficionados for yourself, join us on an Africa Geographic chimp-trekking safari – where the encounters are intoxicating, but the drinks are strictly from a bottle.

This week, safari guide Adam Bannister tackles the Great Migration debate – beyond the river crossings to the survival of East Africa’s golden goose – and we spotlight Africa’s six best wild dog hotspots for your next safari

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

GREAT MIGRATION DEBATE
The Great Migration is more than river crossings. Adam Bannister talks overtourism’s risks & calls for ethical, conservation-first safaris

WILD DOG SAFARIS
Longing to see African wild dogs? Here are the six best spots to see painted wolves in Africa – perfect for your next safari with us

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days – from US$7,150pps

The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Tarangire National Park to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.

Timbavati | Victoria Falls | Chobe – 10 days – from US$13,610pps

3 countries & 3 iconic parks in one safari! Experience the thrill of the wild with a luxury safari that takes you from the heart of Timbavati in Greater Kruger to majestic Victoria Falls and the breathtaking Chobe Riverfront. Drift along the Chobe River as hundreds of elephants drink and play nearby, and watch a leopard mother and her cubs in total serenity

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

African safari: Our safari guests say…

AG safari guests, Teresa and Joan from Ireland, went on a dream South Africa trip to Madikwe and Cape Town:

“Magical trip to South Africa. What a fabulous time we had in South Africa, booked seamlessly through Ro and Linda at Africa Geographic.
Our trip was to Madikwe Game Reserve, where we stayed for 3 nights. The lodge was very welcoming – beautiful place to stay within the park – and the food was so varied and delicious. The game drives exceeded our expectations… we had many close-up views of the animals. A shout out to our safari guide Ashley, who shared all his knowledge of the animals (and he was a really polite gentleman). And of course, to Heidi, the lodge manager, who had a lovely birthday cake for me on my 60th birthday.

Our internal flights to get to Cape Town ran very smoothly, and we were then picked up punctually and stayed at the Queen Victoria Hotel in Cape Town for 3 nights. What a lovely place! We visited all the ‘to-do’ sites there, including Table Mountain, Boulders Beach and Robben Island. A big thank you to Lloyd, whom we booked for a day to drive us around, through AG. All in all, a fabulous itinerary made to our liking. Thank you, AG: I would highly recommend them. Teresa and Joan.🐾🌍x”

Find your dream safari here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Planning an African safari can be overwhelming – but it doesn’t have to be. Wildlife photographer Andrew Macdonald shares what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly extraordinary. (03:26)
Click here to watch

*Deep in Kibale, a chimpanzee contemplates the symphony of the forest. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Eduardo del Alamo
Photographer of the Year 2025 Top 109 entry

The 6 top places to see wild dogs (painted wolves) in Africa

A sighting of African painted wolves (wild dogs) is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences and a guaranteed highlight for guests. From their frenetic hunts to playful pack time, these lithe and athletic predators present true poetry in motion. But, unfortunately, they are also one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores.

Looking for the best place to see them in the wild? Here’s a list of our top six favourite wild dog destinations:

Want to see wild dogs on an African safari? Check out this unique safari focused on finding wild dogs. We also have other ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.

1. Northern and Eastern Zimbabwe

The wild dogs of Mana Pools National Park rose to prominence as the star characters in the BBC series, Dynasties. Yet, for those in the know, the national park and surrounds have long been recognised as one of the best places in Africa to see these charismatic canids.

What makes Mana a particularly fabulous destination for viewing painted wolves is that it offers walking safaris aplenty. Regular encounters have ensured that the painted wolves are unusually comfortable with people on foot. It is important to remember that this is a privilege, not a right, and the African painted wolves should be treated with absolute respect. Keep noise to a minimum, set up a comfortable distance and enjoy the magic of this truly unique experience.

Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park also hosts a large wild dog population. Hwange ranks among Africa’s premier strongholds for painted wolves, with an estimated 200 individuals spread across more than 30 packs. The sheer scale of the park and its diverse habitats provide excellent conditions for these wide-ranging predators, making sightings a rewarding possibility for patient safari-goers. Adding depth to the experience, the Painted Dog Conservation Centre on Hwange’s fringes offers visitors the chance to learn about one of the continent’s longest-running wild dog protection initiatives, from rehabilitation to groundbreaking research.

2. Northern Botswana

Most of Northern Botswana, including Khwai Private Reserve, Chobe National Park, and the Okavango Delta, is prime habitat for wild dogs and a vital population stronghold for these carnivores. The combined landscape of protected areas provides these ever-moving hunters with the space they need. As the river systems ebb and flow, painted wolves charge across the flood plains to chase down their abundant prey. Read more about our CEO, Simon Espley’s, incredible experience searching for wild dog pups in Okavango Delta here – “my best wild dog sightings ever”.

Painted wolf in Khwai — A pack photographed in Khwai Private Reserve, northern Botswana

3. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa

Since their translocation to Madikwe Game Reserve in 1994, African painted wolves have become the unofficial mascot of this arid, malaria-free reserve tucked away in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border. Though their path to success has not always been easy, the wolves are now well established, and the sparse Madikwe vegetation makes it easier to keep an eye on their antics.

Wild dogs in Madikwe — The frenzy after the hunt in Madikwe Game Reserve

4. West and Central Zambia

Home to the largest painted wolf population in Zambia, Luangwa Valley (including both South Luangwa National Park and North Luangwa National Park) stands out as a conservation success story where these tie-dyed predators are concerned. During the dry season, Luangwa’s multitudinous herbivores gather around the life-giving Luangwa River and painted wolves take full advantage of the buffet on offer. The floodplains set the stage for thrilling displays of athleticism as the energetic canids hurtle after antelope or reaffirm their pack bonds with a game of tag and tumble.

Beyond the Luangwa, Zambia offers two more compelling destinations for painted wolf enthusiasts. In Kafue National Park, wild dogs are staging a quiet comeback, with three packs now thriving since the original pair was introduced – a testament to the dedicated work of the Zambian Carnivore Program. Sightings here are still a matter of good fortune, but each encounter carries the thrill of witnessing a population in recovery. Further west, the vast grasslands of Liuwa Plain now host a reintroduced pack, roaming alongside the park’s famed hyenas and cheetahs. Lions were once absent from Liuwa but have since begun to return, though not yet in full force – a dynamic that has created space for painted wolves to re-establish themselves in this remarkable ecosystem.

Painted wolf at Luangwa River — A wild dog on the banks of the Luangwa River above a colony of carmine bee-eaters

5. Greater Kruger, South Africa

Bucking the overall population trend, the Kruger’s painted-wolf population is not declining and may even be steadily increasing. In Kruger National Park, use the sighting boards in camp and chat to park guides to get up-to-date information on recent reliable hotspots. Alternatively, a stay at one of the private reserves and lodges in Greater Kruger during the denning season (typically winter: June until August) will ensure unbeatable sightings of the pups emerging to take in their new world, much to the joy of the rest of the pack.

A painted wolf in Kruger National Park — Feeling playful in Kruger National Park

6. Laikipia, Kenya

Known for its exclusive safari experiences and exceptional record for protecting endangered species, vast Laikipia county is almost entirely covered by private and community conservancies, creating a large habitat for painted wolves to roam.

The Kenyan conservancy model gives its visitors glorious freedom, allowing any visit to be tailored to specific interests. Want to tag along with a research team tasked with monitoring the painted wolves? Though not always a guaranteed option, Laikipia is an excellent place to start.

Never a dull moment

Given their fast-paced lives, keeping up with painted wolves can present something of a challenge, but the reward is well worth the effort involved. With their boundless vitality, astonishing altruism and unmistakable wet-dog smell (with a tinge of something vaguely goat-like), there is never a dull moment when African painted wolves come bounding by.

Resources

New DNA analysis reveals surprising prey in African wild dog diets, reshaping our understanding and informing vital conservation strategies. Read more about the surprising secrets of African wild dog diets here
Tsavo’s African wild dogs face major threats. Tsavo Trust & Painted Wolf Foundation are working to save these painted dogs. Here’s how they are doing it
Read more on the rebranding of ‘wild dogs’ to ‘painted wolves’.
Read about a proposed theory of change that could increase painted wolf populations across Africa.

The Great Migration debate: Guarding the golden goose

The Great Wildebeest Migration is one of the most extraordinary wildlife events on Earth: over a million wildebeest, accompanied by zebra and gazelle, moving in a continuous cycle between the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara. It is a story of survival and renewal, of predators shadowing prey, of grasslands being grazed and replenished. It is about the balance of an ecosystem that has shaped life in East Africa for centuries.

And yet, in the way we market and consume it today, the migration is often reduced to a single spectacle: wildebeest river crossings. If we are not careful, we risk treating this natural marvel as a one-off attraction rather than a fragile, living system – and in doing so, we could kill the golden goose that has nourished both wildlife and communities for years.

How the media changed the story

For decades, visitors celebrated the scale of the migration itself: the sound of hooves rolling across the plains, the dust clouds on the horizon, the predators waiting patiently at the edges. The wonder lay in the abundance – in witnessing one of the last great movements of animals on Earth.

But mobile phones, cameras, and marketing campaigns changed the story. River crossings, with their plunging wildebeest and ambushing crocodiles, are cinematic. They became the easy sell for glossy brochures and television documentaries, and today for social media. Tour operators began building itineraries around them, knowing that images of wildebeest hurling themselves off cliffs were enough to persuade travellers to part with their money.

The danger is that we have narrowed the migration into a single moment. Guests come to Serengeti National Park and Maasai Mara National Reserve seeking one dramatic scene, and investors build lodges to service that demand. Too often, crossings are treated as entertainment rather than as what they truly are: moments of life and death.

The economics of the Great Migration

The Migration is not just an ecological marvel – it is also an economy in itself. Tens of thousands of people depend on it for their livelihoods: from guides and drivers to camp staff, lodge owners, and communities offering spare rooms. Many people have invested their savings in safari vehicles or in building modest camps to capture some of the tourism demand. I believe we often underestimate the knock-on effect of how many families are completely dependent on tourism – especially in East Africa.

This reality makes the problem complex. On one hand, we cannot simply strip away those opportunities or pull the rug from beneath people who have invested their lives in tourism. On the other hand, the uncontrolled growth of camps and vehicles is placing enormous pressure on the phenomenon that sustains them.

There is also an uncomfortable contrast between operators. Some camps genuinely invest in conservation and community: they employ and train local people, channel funds into protection programmes, and even secure land for wildlife. Others, however, operate as little more than roadside hotels, offering beds but contributing little to the wider ecosystem. Fancy lodges with polished marketing campaigns and high-end interiors can sometimes fall into this category too – their glamour and branding may impress guests, but in reality, they are no more supportive of conservation than the simpler roadside options.

Even good management can be undermined. The Mara Triangle, for instance, has invested heavily in upgrading its infrastructure and maintaining roads. But this has drawn more and more vehicles from outside its borders, all coming to benefit from these improvements. By raising standards, the Triangle has inadvertently attracted an unsustainable burden of extra traffic.

This is the heart of the challenge: the migration has become such a vast economy that everyone wants a piece of it. That is understandable. But it is also shortsighted. If we continue to exploit it without restraint, we risk destroying the golden goose itself.

In preparing this piece, I reached out to eight local Maasai guides to hear their perspectives. All chose to speak anonymously, a decision that is telling – there is a fear of repercussions for voicing criticism. Yet each of them echoed the same sentiment: the current scale of overtourism is eroding the heart of the migration. They spoke of how the experience has been degraded, not only for wildlife but also for visitors, and how the once-proud reputation of ecotourism in the Mara is being chipped away. Their words were sobering and a reminder that those closest to the ground often see most clearly the direction in which things are heading.

Enforcement and accountability

One of the most urgent problems is the weakness of enforcement. Fines, too often, are toothless. I have witnessed guests offer to pay fines on behalf of guides – essentially encouraging them to break the rules.

The conversation goes like this:

“How much is it to drive off-road here?”

“We are not allowed.”

“Yes, but if you did, how much would they fine you?”

“10,000 Kenyan Shillings.”

Okay, great. Drive off-road, and we will pay for it if they stop us.”

I have heard this exchange on many occasions. It exposes a failure in the system. If fines are so low that they become part of the cost of doing business, they will never serve as a deterrent. What is an extra US$80 or so on top of a trip that would have cost thousands? Heavy penalties – financial AND professional – must be introduced. Guides must realise that breaking the rules is not an option.

The false Great Migration fixes

In conversations about overtourism in the Mara, a few simple “solutions” are often put forward. Raise park fees. Cap visitor numbers. Ban new developments. On the surface, these sound appealing. In practice, they are not straightforward.

Take the issue of raising park fees. Two years ago, the cost to enter the reserve rose sharply, from US$80 to US$200. We were told this would reduce numbers. It has not. Cars still crowd the crossings; the only change is that visitors now pay more, and the public knows management is collecting greater revenues.

Imagine if fees rose again, to, say, US$500 per person per day. (Keep in mind it currently costs US$1,500 for a permit to view gorillas in Rwanda for a single hour!) Lower-end lodges and camps would potentially collapse overnight. A whole tier of travellers would be priced out. Worse, conservation would risk becoming elitist. Local communities, whose support is vital to the survival of wildlife, could be locked out of landscapes they have protected for decades.

Even the current structure is flawed. Fees are charged per person, but the pressure at crossings comes from vehicles. A car carrying one guest takes up just as much space as a car carrying nine. The system should always have been based on vehicles, not individuals.

And what of development caps? In principle, they are desperately needed. But consider the families who have already invested in cars and modest accommodation. They cannot simply be shut down. Yet, if new camps keep sprouting unchecked, the cumulative pressure will push the Mara past the point of no return.

None of these fixes is as clean as they first appear. The problem is more complicated, and pretending otherwise risks worsening the situation.

Towards real solutions

Solution 1: Capped vehicle entry

A broad cap on vehicle numbers entering the Mara could help, but the reserve is vast. The real strain lies at bottlenecks, not across the entire landscape. A more nuanced approach is needed. The challenge is how such a carrying capacity would be determined in the first place – and whether it could be enforced fairly. The Mara’s boundaries are porous; there are no fences, and it is a poorly kept secret that vehicles have not always entered or exited through official gates. If a capped system were ever to work, it would require rigorous planning, robust monitoring, and genuine commitment to control access. There is also the real question: if the park fee was raised to US$500, US$1,000 or even higher, where would that massive increase in revenue end up?

Solution 2: Viewing platforms and hides

Another idea that surfaces regularly is to construct fixed viewing points, hides, or even grandstand-style platforms, much like those at a golf tournament. The suggestion is that vehicles would park at a distance, and visitors would then walk – perhaps even through tunnels – to these structures, where they could watch the crossings in relative order and safety.

On paper, it has some appeal. But in practice, it is fraught with problems. There are at least 20 recognised crossing points along the river, many with multiple entry and exit spots. To cover them all would require a significant number of platforms. If a crossing happened just out of sight of one, visitors would miss it entirely. The Mara River is unpredictable, its water levels rising and falling throughout the season. Any hide would need to be constructed at considerable height to avoid flooding, which would demand steel, concrete, and large-scale infrastructure.

Even if designed to be discreet and aesthetically sympathetic to the landscape, such structures would still need to accommodate hundreds of people at a time. The resulting human footprint – both visual and physical – would be immense. While the concept is often put forward with good intentions, I do not believe it is a workable or desirable solution for the Mara.

Solution 3: Premium crossing permits

Another proposal is to introduce a premium ticket for access to river crossings. While this might reduce congestion, it risks creating more problems than it solves. Large operators would almost certainly buy up tickets well in advance, dominating the system. A black market could emerge, with permits being sold at extortionate prices on the eve of guest arrivals. In such a scenario, little of the money would reach conservation; middlemen would pocket most.

Solution 4: Controlled crossing points

The most promising approach may be to regulate crossings directly – not by charging extra, but through careful management and oversight. Access could be granted on a first-come, first-served basis, with vehicles guided into predetermined viewing zones. Each crossing point could be mapped and assessed to determine how many cars it can sustainably handle, ensuring that every vehicle present has a fair and unobstructed view.

This simple change would remove the incentive for dangerous behaviour. At present, much of the chaos arises from the limited number of good vantage spots. Vehicles race to secure them, turning crossings into something resembling the start of a rally. By designating parking areas and controlling numbers, that tension would disappear.

Some gentle landscaping might be required – trimming long grasses, levelling sandy banks, or clearing bushes – but this is a minor and reversible impact compared to the benefit of restoring calm and order. Natural barriers such as logs, rocks, or trenches could also protect the wildebeest entry and exit points.

This is not just an idea. I submitted such a proposal to the Mara Conservancy, which in turn forwarded it to Narok County. The concept remains simple: restore order at crossings, cost visitors nothing, and demonstrate that patience and ethics can be rewarded.

These four solutions are by no means the only options. They are simply those I hear most often discussed, and the ones I have personally considered in detail. There are undoubtedly other creative and practical approaches worth exploring.

Alongside longer-term structural solutions, there are also immediate steps that could make a significant difference. First, only accredited and registered professional guides should be allowed to conduct safaris in the Mara, ensuring a higher standard of behaviour and accountability. Second, a portion of the increased park fees should be directed towards employing and equipping far more rangers – with vehicles, cameras, and the authority to hand out substantial fines. During migration season, especially, a visible and empowered ranger presence is essential. Finally, every visitor to the Mara should be asked to sign a simple but powerful code of conduct, one that makes clear that respect for wildlife is paramount. A model exists in the Palau Pledge, where visitors to the Pacific Island nation sign a promise in their passports to act responsibly and preserve nature for future generations. Such a pledge in the Mara would help shift expectations from the moment a safari begins. In Palau, you cannot enter without signing this pledge to protect the natural environment. Shouldn’t the Mara ask the same of its visitors?

Integrating local access

Another potential step is to guarantee a capped number of places for Kenyan residents each day, at a reduced rate. This would ensure that local people remain connected to their own wildlife, while international visitors continue to provide the bulk of funding. Done properly, this could be a win-win: inclusivity without undermining financial sustainability.

A cultural reset, transparency and trust

Finally, there must be a shift in how we view wildlife. Safari is not a right, but a privilege. Crossings are not “content” to be consumed and shared; they are moments of life and death. Guests should also be encouraged to spend time with the herds away from the river, immersed in the sheer magnitude of life unfolding across the plains.

A lack of trust underpins all of this. Where does the money go? Park fees generate millions of dollars, but how much reaches conservation on the ground? How much reaches local communities? And – though this must be asked gently – how much ends up with individuals?

These questions are not accusations, but they must be addressed. Transparency would transform perceptions. If visitors knew how their fees were spent, they would be far more willing to pay, more patient with restrictions, and more supportive of conservation strategies. The same is true of lodge approvals: who decides, and why? Openness would build confidence; secrecy only fuels suspicion.

The role of guests

Guests play a crucial role. By choosing camps that actively support conservation and employ local people, they can help ensure that tourism strengthens the ecosystem rather than simply extracts from it. Camps that invest in land, training of people, and protection of wildlife deserve to be supported over those that do the bare minimum.

Guests should also set expectations with their guides early in their trip. Make it clear that tips will be based on knowledge, interpretation, and respect for nature – not on reckless driving, racing between sightings, or forcing proximity at crossings. Guides should be rewarded for their patience, knowledge, storytelling, and ethics, not for taking risks.

Choose safari operators who prioritise conservation and responsible practices when experiencing the Great Migration. Africa Geographic’s Great Migration safaris offer you this extraordinary spectacle while protecting the ecosystem that sustains it. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

And here’s a radical thought – what if lodges simply paid their guides higher salaries and scrapped tipping altogether? Imagine an industry where the incentive to impress came from stable, sufficient pay and professional pride, not from the chase for the biggest end-of-trip envelope. Of course, tipping is far too deeply embedded in safari culture for this to ever happen, but it’s worth noting that the pursuit of tips is one of the root causes of the bad behaviours we see on the ground today.

Every choice a guest makes matters. The type of camp, the questions asked, the behaviour expected – all contribute to shaping the future of the Mara.

Zebra and wildebeest on the march. Guests can shape the future by choosing camps that truly support conservation

A call to act

The Great Wildebeest Migration is under pressure. In recent years, the herds have spent less and less time in the Mara – a fact that individually everyone knows, but collectively no one appears to acknowledge or talk about. Climate change plays a role, but so too do human factors: fences, frequent burning, vehicle congestion, and the sheer density of camps along migratory routes.

We cannot kill the golden goose. We must nurture it. We must accept that change is needed, even if it is uncomfortable.

The question is not whether action should be taken. It is those who will be bold enough to make the decisions. Years ago, management admitted that the Mara was at a breaking point. Since then, numbers have grown, crossings have become more chaotic, and more large camps have been built; the only meaningful change has been a US$120 hike in park fees. That is not enough.

Above it all, the solution must come from within. Outsiders like myself can advise, support, and share ideas, but for real traction, change must be led by the Maasai community – the custodians of this landscape. Their voices, leadership, and authority are essential if the Mara is to find a sustainable future.

Who will be bold enough to make the difficult decisions? What will it take before action is truly taken?

The Great Migration is a global treasure, and protecting it requires courage and honesty. It will mean facing uncomfortable truths, regulating where regulation is overdue, and choosing long-term sustainability over short-term gain. If we fail, the cost will be irreversible – for wildlife, and for the people who depend on it.

The true wonder of the Migration lies in the endless sweep of life across the plains: not just the river

This article was originally published on Adam’s blog, AdamBannisterWildlife.com

About Adam Bannister

Adam Bannister is a South African-trained biologist, safari guide, author and storyteller who has spent nearly two decades immersed in some of the world’s most iconic wild places, from the Sabi Sands and Maasai Mara to the deserts of Rajasthan and the forests of Rwanda and Peru. With a passion for training guides, Adam works across Africa and India to help guiding teams unlock their full potential, combining science, storytelling and presence to elevate the guest experience. His strength lies in translating complex natural phenomena into meaningful, memorable moments in the field. Read more about Adam here.

Further reading

Sustainable safaris: Can tourism truly protect nature? Tourism funds conservation, yet unmanaged growth risks overtourism. Christy Bragg looks into the question of mindful safaris that can sustain Africa’s wildlife and people
Are viral safari guides putting content before conservation? Adam Bannister makes calls for a restoration of ethics, respect, and integrity in wildlife guiding
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
Longing to know more about the Maasai Mara? This how to guide on Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari

THIS WEEK – 19 September 2025

To cull or not to cull in Madikwe? + Nyungwe crimsonwing quest + Volcanoes meet gorillas

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

There is a tiny bird that has never been photographed in the wild other than when accidentally netted during biodiversity surveys.

I have been on numerous adventures to the misty highland forests it calls home to catch a glimpse of this gorgeous avian eye candy, but alas, it has evaded me SO FAR. I also co-founded an NGO that sponsored and managed two years of netting research in their prime habitat in collaboration with Uganda Wildlife Authority – also to no avail.

Shelley’s crimsonwing – Cryptospiza shelleyi – is a species of forest finch occurring in the highland forests of the Albertine Rift in East Africa. It is classified as endangered due to habitat loss and is likely to have a small, severely fragmented and declining population.

One paradisiacal location to search for this special bird is Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda. Oh, and it is also one of Africa’s best chimp trekking destinations, and hosts 13 primate and 337 bird species, including 29 Albertine Rift endemics! AND NOW African Parks has opened a new lodge deep inside this primordial forest – Munazi Lodge – the only lodge inside the national park.

Meanwhile, as I am writing this, a giraffe and her adolescent youngster are nibbling new buds on the trees at our garden fenceline, and a drongo is dive-bombing insects disturbed by these gentle giants. Life is good.

Finally, Leo Tolstoy famously stated, “One of the first conditions of happiness is that the link between man and nature shall not be broken”.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Watch and listen to Simon’s editorial below, or listen to all Simon’s past editorials here:

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Good news is scarce in the vulture world – which makes this discovery worth celebrating. For the first time ever, conservationists have confirmed a hooded vulture nest with a chick in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. This marks the southernmost breeding site yet recorded for the critically endangered species, expanding our understanding of its range – and bringing fresh hope for the species!

The find came during aerial surveys in Zululand and adds to other small but significant wins for Africa’s vultures, including more nests of lappet-faced vultures and growth in some white-backed colonies. With threats like poisoning, power line collisions and traditional medicine hunting still pressing, every chick is a victory.

This week, we bring you news on Madikwe’s elephant dilemma, written by an expert on the matter, Roger Collinson. There are tough conservation choices ahead. We also take you on a journey into Rwanda’s iconic Volcanoes National Park, home to gorillas and grandeur.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

TO CULL OR NOT TO CULL
Madikwe faces an elephant crisis that forces conservation discussions about culling, hunting and tourism. Expert Roger Collinson writes

VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Cape Town, Winelands & Okavango Delta – 11 days – from US$7,190pps

This is the luxury safari you’ve been dreaming of. Experience the ultimate Southern African adventure. A seamless blend of cosmopolitan Cape Town, the culinary magic of Franschhoek, and the wild beauty of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Serengeti Great Migration & big cats – 8 days – from US$7,590pps

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

Spots on the line: Saving Hoedspruit’s leopards

Africa Geographic is proud to announce our newest conservation campaign: partnering with the Ingwe Research Program to protect Hoedspruit’s leopards. These secretive neighbours quietly share our landscapes, but their survival is under serious threat – seven lost their lives on local roads last year alone.

This vital project tackles the urgent issue of road fatalities and works to implement life-saving infrastructure and signage. Ingwe’s broader work also builds the most comprehensive leopard database in the region, equipping conservationists and communities with the knowledge to reduce human-wildlife conflict.

We support this campaign because it addresses one of the most pressing challenges facing leopards today: surviving in landscapes increasingly shaped by people. Together, we can change this story.

Find out more about the Ingwe Research Program and our campaign to support them here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Witness an incredible 25-year journey of love, dedication, and ecological triumph. Samara, a passionate conservation undertaking in South Africa’s Great Karoo, has painstakingly rewilded 27,000 hectares of degraded land, bringing back lions, elephants, and cheetahs after over a century of absence. (06:38)
Click here to watch

*Cover photo: Walking the treetops above Rwanda’s ancient rainforest on Nyungwe’s breathtaking Canopy Walk, where primates, orchids, and birds thrive at eye level. Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda. © Villiers Steyn | Ukuri

Trek for mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park

Sir Attenborough was, as always, spot-on in the narration of his encounter with the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains. Shortly after the ad-libbed but apt summation of his emotional journey, a young gorilla called Poppy grew tired of exchanging glances and attempted to divest him of his shoes. The now-famous scene was filmed in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.

Today, Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla-trekking safari destinations in Africa – a place where, against so many odds, the critically endangered mountain gorilla has flourished. And while the gorillas may be the stars, visitors are equally likely to find themselves blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.

Volcanoes National Park and the Greater Virunga Ecosystem

Tucked in Rwanda’s north-western corner on the borders of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the 160km² (16,000 hectare) Volcanoes National Park protects the vital Rwandan portion of the Virunga Mountains. The Virunga range consists of eight major volcanoes, of which five are in Volcanoes National Park. With Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the north and Virunga National Park in DRC to the west, Volcanoes National Park is part of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. This trio of countries acts as the guardians of just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas living on the forest-swathed slopes of the imposing volcanoes.

All five of the Virunga volcanoes on the Rwandan side have long since retired from spewing lava (though there are two active volcanoes in the range in neighbouring DRC), but their presence in the park is no less dramatic for their dormancy. Mounts Karisimbi, Bisoke (Visoke), Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura are the products of ferocious geological forces that shaped this section of the Albertine Rift. The resultant rich volcanic soils laid the necessary groundwork for the astonishing floral (and therefore faunal) lifeforms on display. In addition, scientists believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which explains the unusually high number of species and levels of endemism. These refugia are geographic regions that escaped the worst of the glacial conditions, allowing for the survival of plant and animal species.

Naturally, the visual impact of the jagged mountains looming like teeth is also somewhat breathtaking, though this can be at least in part attributed to the altitude. The park’s highest point is the peak of Mount Karisimbi (4,500 metres), and most of the park lies at over 2,000 metres above sea level – not high enough to cause altitude sickness but something that certainly takes some getting used to for unacclimatised visitors.

Check out our Volcanoes National Park safari ideas here, or explore other options for gorilla trekking here. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

The significant altitudinal range within the park has also contributed to considerable variation in vegetation types, changing from tropical and bamboo forest types at lower altitudes to montane forests and Afroalpine shrublands at the highest points. Thickets, grasslands, marshes, and small lakes extend between each volcano. This medley of geological and climatic factors has conferred significant biodiversity and conservation importance to Volcanoes National Park. Of course, the park’s gorilla residents (and the work of dedicated primatologists) first put it on the safari map.

The tropical and bamboo forests of Volcanoes NP are home to famous gorillas and golden monkeys, drawing tourists from across the globe

Gorillas in water droplets suspended in the atmosphere

Close encounters with gorillas like the one experienced by Sir Attenborough all those years ago are no longer permitted. Visitors are obliged to keep their distance and attempt to move away from the gorillas if approached. Wearing masks is also mandatory for trekkers, to protect the critically endangered mountain gorillas from human-borne diseases. This is an important measure taken to ensure the safety and health of the gorillas. Nevertheless, those who go gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park will find their encounters meet or, more frequently, exceed expectations. The strain of an early start and arduous hike (that may go on for hours along slippery, twisting mud paths through stinging nettles) rapidly evaporates when one looks into the unfathomable brown eyes of one of our closest relatives. Though few have the eloquence of David Attenborough to describe the experience, adjectives like “spiritual”, “profound”, “soul-stirring”, “humbling”, and “magical” are thrown about like confetti by those able to find them. Others find that words fail them.

Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism (other troops are habituated solely for research purposes). These are the Susa, Igisha, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Hirwa, Bwenge, Kwisanga and Muhoza families. Only eight tracking permits are issued per group per day, so time spent with the gorillas is incredibly intimate. Furthermore, a percentage of the permit prices are fed back into surrounding communities to develop infrastructure and improve livelihoods. This culture of sustainable tourism is rapidly becoming a proud (and successful) tradition of Rwandan conservation.

For the true gorilla devotee, it is well worth visiting Kwita Izina – an annual naming ceremony for newborn gorillas modelled off a Rwandan tradition of naming children. Conservation champions are honoured with the opportunity to bestow a name upon one of the tiny bundles of primate joy, every one of which is of vital importance to the future survival of the species. Since 2005, 437 gorillas have been named in this way, and the ceremony includes live music, dancing and, of course, essential conservation talks. A well-timed visit allows additional opportunities to speak to gorilla conservationists and park staff. The ceremony usually takes place in September to coincide with World Gorilla Day.

What Dian Fossey would have thought of this ceremony will forever remain a mystery. However, no discussion of the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park would be complete without mention of the Karisoke Research Centre and her work. Though Fossey was a controversial figure, her devotion to her gorilla subjects was absolute, and she eventually gave her life to the fight for their conservation. The abandoned Karisoke Research Centre and Fossey’s final resting place remain popular attractions, though they are only accessible on foot after a relatively strenuous 90-minute hike.

Rwanda — Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park always meets expectations

As remarkable as they are, visiting Volcanoes National Park is not just about the gorillas. In terms of the primates, few people realise that the park is also home to troops of habituated golden monkeys. These charismatic monkeys are almost as scarce as their gorilla cousins and are only found around the Virunga region. With their handsome facial mane, auburn capes of fur, and perpetually surprised expressions, the golden monkeys are the perfect photographic subjects, and their antics are endlessly entertaining.

The forest is also home to forest elephants. However, there are probably no more than 50 individuals wandering the park, and they are generally skittish, unwelcome as they are in the surrounding human villages. The best chance of encountering one is on the hike to the old Karisoke Research Centre. Buffaloes occasionally venture into the forests, and smaller ungulates like bushpigs, giant forest hogs, black-fronted duikers, and bushbucks flourish in the dense vegetation.

Like Nyungwe National Park in southern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park offers some of the best birding in East Africa. High levels of endemism and the challenges of forest birding make this one of the most electrifying places to search for the feathered specials that keep eager birders awake at night. This bird-watching haven has over 200 different recorded species, including 17 Albertine Rift endemics. At the top of Mount Bisoke (more on that later), scarlet-tufted sunbirds flit from lobelia to lobelia, while further down, Shelley’s crimsonwings do their utmost to evade the avid attentions of teamAG (and pretty much everyone else). Bright scarlet flashes draw the eye to African pittas and Rwenzori turacos, and handsome francolins make up for their comparatively drab appearance with an impressively loud voice (a family trait). Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds, African green broadbills, Rwenzori batises… the list goes on. Even novice (or dare we say disinterested?) bird watchers will find the excitement infectious.

For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic travel director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide. Its Volcanoes National Park section will be an invaluable tool to set you on the right track to target your most coveted Albertine Rift endemics and learn about this volcanic gem.

L'Hoest's monkeys — L’Hoest’s monkeys can be seen in the park on primate trekking experiences

Pathways through the mist

For those whose legs have forgiven them their trespasses (like a few hours chasing gorillas up a mountain), Volcanoes National Park is a hiker’s paradise. The truly brave can opt for an overnight route to the top of Mount Karisimbi, the highest point in the park. The name ‘Karisimbi’ translates as ‘white shell’ – so-called due to the white cap of cloud that often covers the summit. Equally challenging is the hike to the top of Mount Muhavura to look out across the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo (separated by an ancient lava flow). Many visitors choose to explore the almost alien-like Afroalpine vegetation and crater lake at the top of Mount Bisoke (often, but not always, in search of the red-tufted sunbird).
These hikes depend on a certain level of physical fitness, must be booked in advance, and are always conducted in the company of a park-provided guide.

Explore & stay

The only visitors allowed in the park overnight are those who have booked multiple-day hiking excursions. However, there are many accommodation options ranging from budget hotels to ultra-luxurious lodges on the park’s periphery. The park is open year-round, though the “best time” to visit is from June until September, the long dry season. Though the highest rainfall levels occur from March to May and again in October and November, this is an equatorial region, and rain is possible at any time. And, naturally, the famous mists do more than just hide the gorillas. Consequently, it is essential to waterproof all electronics and photographic equipment, and a good pair of non-slip, waterproof walking boots are vital.

The region’s magic doesn’t end at the park boundaries, and those with an extra day or two can opt to learn more about ancient Rwanda culture at Buhanga Eco-Park. Here the kings of old undertook a series of kingship rituals before being crowned in the park’s caves. Cave systems are extensive around Volcanoes National Park, and since it was first opened in 2014, the 2km trail through the 60-million-year-old Musanze Cave has become increasingly popular.

In Rwanda – the “Land of a Thousand Hills” – the steep, forested slopes of the five in Volcanoes National Park are indisputably among the country’s most unique offerings.

Would you like to set out on a Volcanoes National Park adventure? Our safari experts will be with you every step of the way as you plan and book your safari.

Resources

Combine a visit to Volcanoes National Park with Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda
Check out our authoritative guide to the different species and subspecies, to help you in getting to know the gorillas
Learn more about The Mountain Gorilla: Gentle Giants of the Forests.

The Madikwe elephant dilemma

The Madikwe elephant dilemma has become a lightning rod for opinion, often loud and polarised. Much of what’s been written is deeply rooted in emotion. This is not unusual: conservation stirs deep feelings. But when complex challenges are reduced to single-issue arguments, the results can be damaging. In this op ed, Roger Collinson attempts to step back from that noise and offer perspective: the kind that comes from five decades of lived experience in the spaces where conservation, tourism, and hunting overlap – sometimes neatly, often not. Collinson reflects on Madikwe’s unique and remarkable origins, the shifting dynamics, and the economic realities that must be part of the conversation.

Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s great conservation success stories. Established in the early 1990s on exhausted cattle farms, it was envisioned not as a nostalgic return to wilderness, but as a bold experiment in land-use transformation – one designed to uplift neighbouring communities through tourism. In just three decades, it has grown into a Big Five destination of global renown, supporting more than 30 lodges, thousands of jobs, and an economy worth hundreds of millions each year to the North West Province.

But with success has come pressure. Madikwe’s elephant population, reintroduced at the reserve’s inception, has expanded from just 250 founding animals to an estimated 1,500–1,700 today. The impacts on vegetation, tourism, and neighbouring communities have become increasingly difficult to ignore. And now, the reserve stands at a crossroads: should managers reduce the herd through culling or find alternative solutions? The question has ignited fierce debate far beyond the fences of the park.

The question of elephant management at Madikwe is not a moral contest between good and evil. It is a practical, multifaceted challenge that requires a carefully considered response. It demands clear thinking, ecological insight and value judgements, not emotional slogans. We need to understand population dynamics, vegetation trends, tourism carrying capacities, and the needs of local communities. We need proper modelling of future scenarios and potential trade-offs. Most of all, we need collaboration among all relevant stakeholders, provincial authorities, reserve managers, ecologists, community representatives, and tourism operators.

The urgency of these questions was underscored in June 2025, when Africa Geographic revealed that trophy hunting may soon return to Madikwe. AG reported that a North West Parks and Tourism Board tender proposed the hunting of 25 Madikwe elephants, two black rhinos and ten buffalo in Madikwe, alongside ten elephants and five buffalo in Pilanesberg. Lodge operators warned of reputational damage, and investors decried a lack of consultation. Officials, meanwhile, defended the move as a legally sound attempt to “bring balance” between ecological realities, economic imperatives and community interests.

The subsequent surge of media commentary on Madikwe’s elephant dilemma has been disheartening. What’s being presented, whether through social platforms or traditional media, tends to reduce the issue to a false binary: “To cull, or not to cull?”

There’s no shortage of emotion, sensationalism, and often misinformation in these arguments. What is sorely lacking is context, specifically, the ecological and management realities of Madikwe itself. Reactive discourse tends to ignore complexity. Instead of engaging with the full range of ecological, social, economic, and reputational factors involved, it forces us to choose sides in a simplified, polarised argument. That’s not just unhelpful, it’s dangerous.

With five decades in conservation and tourism, I’ve learned that complex questions rarely have simple answers. I write not as someone “for” or “against” culling, but as a practitioner who has worked across both hunting and tourism. My career spans drafting South Africa’s first trophy hunting legislation in the 1970s to facilitating joint ventures between communal conservancies and professional outfitters in Namibia today. I’ve helped shape the management of reserves such as Madikwe, Pilanesberg and the !Khamab Kalahari Reserve in South Africa, and Etosha Heights in Namibia – areas that began with hunting as their economic model but later transitioned to tourism when conditions shifted. In each case, the decision was pragmatic, not ideological, based on evidence of what best served conservation and communities. These evidence-based processes were guided by the growing performance of tourism in delivering socioeconomic benefits, park revenues, and broader conservation outcomes. This included the fact that the conflict between hunting and tourism operators had reached an unmanageable state, despite zoning. That same perspective informs my views on culling in Madikwe.

My concern is this: in emotionally charged climates, decision-makers are pressured to act quickly, to be seen to “do something.” They are now stuck between a rock and a hard place, damned if they cull, and damned if they don’t. But rushed decisions made without complete understanding can cause more harm than good. What’s at stake here isn’t just the elephant population. It’s the long-term viability of Madikwe as a conservation and tourism destination. It’s the livelihoods of neighbouring communities. It’s the North West Province’s tourism economy. And it’s South Africa’s reputation for rational, evidence-based conservation on the international stage.

Yes, over Madikwe’s 30 years of existence, mistakes have been made. There has been neglect. But equally, the reserve has achieved remarkable things, economically, socially, and ecologically. There is little to be gained by finger-pointing or dwelling on the past. What matters now is how we meet today’s challenges.

What Madikwe elephant data tells us – not the hype

We’re living in an age where emotion often drowns out evidence. Nowhere is this more obvious than in some of the commentary surrounding the Madikwe elephant issue. Some organisations have warned of the exaggerated narratives causing harm. One that made me shake my head in disbelief described Madikwe at its inception as some kind of Garden of Eden and claimed it has now become “a barren wasteland struck by a nuclear bomb where vegetation has been decimated, biodiversity is collapsing, and animals are perishing due to starvation”.

Another asserted that leopards are on the verge of extinction in the reserve, apparently starving to death because there are no longer any large trees for them to hoist their prey into. The narrative continued that vultures, secretary birds, and many other species appear to be all teetering on the edge.

Let me be clear: Madikwe’s large trees are still standing, although their number has been reduced. Guests are still spotting leopards. And the so-called “vanishing species” are, in fact, still very much present: sightings are being reported regularly. For example, rare and endangered species, such as black rhinos, show no signs of decline (and have actually shown an increasing trend), and the populations of other large herbivores and predators have remained stable over the past six years. Yes, the elephant population did experience nutritional and drought stress, but the number that succumbed to this was 4% of the total. Unfortunate, but far from a “catastrophe”. Thus, the media’s hyperbole that carcasses are strewn throughout the reserve is somewhat exaggerated. These mortalities were predominantly in the juvenile or older age classes, as would be expected with successive years of fire and drought-stressed systems. Nevertheless, it should serve as a wake-up call: elephant numbers may now be reaching a level that could lead to repeat events if wise heads don’t intervene with balanced, well-informed solutions that avoid collapsing the tourism economy.

What bothers me most, though, is when these opinion pieces misuse the language of science to lend weight to emotional arguments. One widely repeated claim is that the carrying capacity for elephants in Madikwe is 250. Well, I know exactly where that number came from: it came from me. Certainly not from science in the way the term is being misused now. When elephants were first introduced into Madikwe in the early 1990s, I suggested a starting figure of 300. In the end, only 250 were brought in. That number wasn’t an ecological ceiling; it was a precautionary starting point. My recommendation was always that this founding population should be allowed to grow naturally, with the proviso that changes in vegetation and broader ecological indicators be closely monitored over time. That is the essence of adaptive management. You don’t fix a number in stone; you respond to what the ecosystem is telling you, over years, not weeks. This has been my conservative approach to reintroducing wildlife species, including large predators and herbivores, to the many rewilding projects I have been involved with over the past 50 years.

Unfortunately, that advice was not heeded, and the elephant population has continued to grow, despite concerns being raised along the way. As a result, we now face a set of very difficult decisions around the question: to cull, or not to cull? Or perhaps more importantly, if to cull, then how should this be approached both strategically and technically?

The idea of a fixed “carrying capacity” comes from an outdated view of nature that assumed ecological balance was static. It is, however, not. Today, we understand that ecosystems operate more like a pendulum than a set of scales.

There is no doubt that, based on vegetation monitoring results, fixed-point photos, and Google Earth imagery, the growth of the elephant population (from 250 to an estimated 1,500–1,700 over 30 years) has had a marked impact on the structure and composition of vegetation – especially with the reduction of large tree species. But this doesn’t necessarily mean Madikwe’s ecosystem is ruined or that the original vegetation state from 30 years ago is ideal for our objectives. This is discussed in more depth in the sections below.

The founding objectives of Madikwe

Madikwe’s founding objectives were distinct from those of most Southern African reserves. Based on a comparative land-use study, the creation of a Big Five reserve was identified as the most effective strategy for driving socioeconomic upliftment in a region marked by poverty, drought, and underdevelopment. Unlike reserves focused on ecological restoration, Madikwe was established primarily to benefit the surrounding Barokologadi community (also known as the ba Ga Maotwa and Bahurutshe communities) through tourism.

The goal was never to recreate a “natural” or “pristine” landscape; such concepts are no longer widely accepted by contemporary conservation professionals. This is because most ecosystems are never held in a static state and instead are shaped by ongoing environmental changes and, more recently, human influences. Such terms are subjective and fall outside the realm of scientific management.

Thus, the reserve, essentially reclaimed cattle land, was by no means a Garden of Eden at the time of its founding, and to maintain a “pristine” state was, by default, never one of its objectives.

Thus, against this background, assessing vegetation change over time is a complex task. The desired state of Madikwe’s vegetation cannot be determined solely within the realm of science. The founding objectives, centred on tourism-driven development, must remain a significant consideration, which in turn requires careful value judgments around tourism, socioeconomics, biodiversity, and sustainability. This does not mean that biodiversity considerations are entirely ignored. Instead, the conservation of rare and endangered species, such as the black rhino, cheetah, wild dog, and vultures, receives special conservation attention.

In short, the idea that Madikwe has crossed some hard limit at 250 elephants is biologically unsound.

The desired state of Madikwe vegetation – historical vs future facing

Determining the desired state of the vegetation is the starting point of decision-making in this case. But this process also involves many subjective elements and value judgments, given the land use and landscape changes that have taken place in this area in the past 200 years.

Historical accounts from the 1800s describe Madikwe as an open woodland teeming with wildlife, including elephants, rhinos, and lions, amid sparse human settlement. Explorers like Holub and Cummings noted lush vegetation and grassy glades, though some, like Cornwallis Harris, recorded droughts where soil was bare of grass and “dust bowl” conditions. Frequent fires and elephant activity likely maintained this openness in high-rainfall years.

By the late 1800s, elephants and other large game had been hunted to extinction. The region was subdivided into farms, and by the early 1900s, as Herman Charles Bosman observed, degradation had set in due to overgrazing, bush clearing, drought, and fire exclusion. This worsened in the 1970s and 1980s under Bophuthatswana’s grazing leases.

A study, undertaken over 10 years in the 1970s, 30 years before the founding of Madikwe in 1993, recorded a steady thickening of the woody vegetation. At the time of the reserve’s founding, before Madikwe elephants were reintroduced, I clearly remember the north-east quarter was characterised by dense bush and eroded soils – mainly Sekelbos (Dichrostachys cinerea). This state is what I observed again when I visited Madikwe in December 2024, at the end of the drought. This negates claims in recent articles that this is a symptom of the unrestricted growth of the elephant population.

Madikwe elephants take a dip in the water, mid rainy season

Thus, against this background, deciding on the desired vegetation state for Madikwe is a complex task, but it is fundamental to resolving the dilemma “to cull or not to cull?” This is laden with value judgments and cannot be determined solely within the realm of science. The founding objectives – centred on tourism-driven development – must remain a significant consideration, which in turn requires careful judgments around tourism, socioeconomics, biodiversity, and sustainability. Furthermore, the objectives cannot simply be amended to suit current narratives or agendas.

From the above written accounts of the landscape and land use, this has changed considerably over the past 200 years, with a reduction of open grasslands and an invasion of woody plants. But after the introduction of the elephant, there has been a marked reduction in large trees and at the same time, thickening up of the bush. There is a tendency amongst some conservationists (and those that have joined the debate by proxy) to hold the notion that the first written descriptions of the landscape, or at minimum, the land neighbouring Madikwe, which is free of elephants, are what should be regarded as the “pristine” or “ideal” state for the reserve.

The reserve was by no means in a “pristine” condition when it was founded, and maintaining a “pristine” state was, by default, never one of its objectives. In any case, what is a pristine or benchmark state? Is it the state that early explorers and hunters encountered when exploring the area, as recorded in a vegetation survey undertaken some 30 years before Madikwe was established, or when the reserve was established? Given that it is beyond the realm of science to answer these questions, the only sensible way to address them is to refer back to the stated objectives and strategies of the reserve upon which it was founded and consider the trade-offs that should be made. For example, suppose a less wooded vegetation state enhances tourism and hence socioeconomic benefits: In that case, it may be expedient for value judgment-based decisions involving tradeoffs between socioeconomic objectives and biodiversity considerations

Madikwe elephant population management – logistics and ethics

Only once an agreement is reached on the “desired vegetation state” can advisors and decision makers apply their minds to the future management of the elephant population and a sequence of other questions that will follow. First and foremost, there is the fundamental question of whether or not a reduction of the elephant population is required to achieve a desired vegetation state. If the answer to this is a definitive “yes”, then what method should be used: lethal or non-lethal? How many Madikwe elephants should be removed, over what time frame, and with what consideration for age and sex ratios? Just as crucially, how will this be done in a way that minimises the negative impact on tourism and thus on the socioeconomic effects on neighbouring Bakgalagadi and Bahurutshe communities and the broader economy and reputation of the North West Province?

Based on the many opinions I have encountered over the past two years, the recommended population reduction may be as high as 1,000 elephants, or perhaps even more. It is clearly impossible to achieve this in a single operation or calendar year. Any reduction would need to be phased over several years, with contraception applied in combination with lethal or translocation methods.

Indeed, as far back as the late 1990s, it was recommended that elephant contraception be used as a management tool. This option was revisited on at least two further occasions, yet unfortunately, no follow-up action was taken. The result is that the population has now grown too large for immunocontraception alone to be an effective management tool.

Marakele elephants — An elephant family gathers at a Madikwe waterhole

With regard to contraception, a statement from the Confederation of Hunting Associations of South Africa (CHASA), titled Parliamentary oversight has a chance to do the right thing still claimed that elephant immunocontraception is highly controversial, posing “considerable risks to both individual elephants and the population as a whole”. Notably, this advocacy statement from CHASA fails to mention the numerous peer-reviewed publications and successful outcomes of contraception programs currently implemented in 50 reserves over the past thirty years.

When recommending a combination of management approaches, I never envisaged that the population would grow to the present estimate of 1,500 or more. Unfortunately, that advice was either not heeded or not fully understood. As a consequence, the elephant population has continued to increase despite concerns being raised over time. Although there are many opinions that the elephant population, together with the entire Madikwe ecosystem, has already gone over the cliff, this has not yet happened. In my opinion, it could be claimed to be teetering on the edge. It is thus critical to make calm and wise decisions to rescue it from the impending abyss – in whose depths we may find the collapse of Madikwe tourism as well as the local socioeconomic situation.

Tourism versus trophy hunting in Madikwe

Currently, 31 tourism lodges operate within Madikwe, along with three community-based lodges located just outside the reserve – but directly linked to its tourism value chain. Together, they offer around 740 beds. This is perhaps one of the highest densities of tourist beds per hectare in South Africa. The combined annual direct economic contribution of these operations to the local economy is conservatively estimated at between R500 million and R700 million. This figure includes payroll, operational costs, VAT, direct taxation, and ongoing lodge refurbishments and expansions.

To give just one example: preliminary socioeconomic data indicate that Madikwe has created approximately 1,000 direct jobs for people from neighbouring communities, with a combined annual take-home payroll of R100 million. That’s real income supporting real families at the household level.

In contrast, while annual income from trophy hunting has not yet been precisely calculated, early estimates based on proposed quotas suggest it would be significantly lower than the revenue and more sustainable job creation generated by tourism – even if hunting were to be allowed inside the reserve. Furthermore, there is a misconception that the price listed for a trophy is the revenue that will go directly to the North West Parks and Tourism Board or the neighbouring communities. What seems to be misunderstood is that a significant portion of this fee goes to the professional hunter to cover their considerable operating cost. Thus, only a portion of the prices listed on brochures is actually received by the North West Parks and Tourism Board. In an ideal world, much of this revenue would be allocated to managing Madikwe instead of paying head office salaries and other costs. The same should apply to concession fees paid by tourist lodge operations.

Above all, any intervention must avoid undermining Madikwe’s tourism appeal: It is tourism, not controversy, that sustains both the reserve and the livelihoods it supports.

When the recent tender was released to the hunting fraternity, inviting them to apply for hunting rights in the Madikwe and Pilanesberg areas, Madikwe’s quotas were listed as 25 elephants, two black rhinos, and several buffalo. This caused considerable controversy, and as a result, the North West Parks and Tourism Board temporarily withdrew Pilanesberg and Madikwe from the tender invitation. Consultation processes are planned over the coming months before any final decision on trophy hunting in Pilanesberg and Madikwe is made.

What must be clearly understood is that trophy hunting of 25 elephants is not a solution to the “cull or not to cull” dilemma, or indeed, to reduce population levels. On the contrary, allowing trophy hunting in Madikwe carries extremely high risks and is likely to have a far more damaging impact on tourism and the reserve’s socioeconomic benefits. To put it bluntly: to hunt in Madikwe is to gamble away many hundreds of millions in tourism revenue for only a few million in return from trophy hunting. Notwithstanding this financial consideration, if the quota of the 25 trophy-hunted elephants mentioned for Madikwe is confined to adult bulls, alarm bells should be ringing as to how disruptive this may be to the social behaviour of the entire Madikwe elephant population. Experience elsewhere demonstrates that this disruption may pose a danger to tourists visiting the reserve.

Madikwe elephants — Poorly planned hunting could disrupt the social behaviour of the entire Madikwe elephant population

In view of the above, if the notion of trophy hunting in Madikwe comes back on the table it needs to be backed by a thorough plan on a range of logistical consideration and how it can be carried out with most importantly quotas, hunting lodges, zonation between hunting and tourism activities, a Code of Conduct, strict rules and, most importantly, a cost benefit analysis of tourism versus hunting. This cost-benefit analysis is the essential starting point of any tourism versus hunting discussion/debate.

While concerned and effective groups have hailed the recently appointed provincial elephant management task team, there are also others less optimistic about the efficacy, transparency and selective inclusion of this task team. Of most significant concern is the lack of feedback to the public and slow progress of this task team; and many are comparing it to the many never-ending Commissions of Inquiry that South Africa has seen. Given the urgency of resolving the current elephant dilemma, it is disappointing that the team is still at the “talk shop“ level and nowhere near providing recommendations and operational procedures for implementation. At this rate, it would seem that decisions and implementations may not be done before the next drought arrives. There are also concerns that specific expertise is not represented in the task team panel. These include, most notably, animal welfare organisations, economists, veterinarians, and individuals with longstanding and successful experience in elephant contraception endeavours.

Final thoughts on the Madikwe elephant dilemma

If interventions such as contraception or even culling had been implemented when first proposed in the late 1990s, the situation today would likely look very different – especially considering that elephant populations can double every 10 to 15 years. A plan was presented, but it appears that the North West Parks did not act on it. Had action been taken then, the reserve would have saved millions in management costs. Instead, the problem has compounded, and any response now – whether culling, contraception, or relocation – will come at a far greater price.

The logistical challenges are immense. Removing a thousand elephants from a 50,000-hectare reserve is not a straightforward task. Even without tourists, the practicalities, how to move them, how to dispose of carcasses, are daunting. Attempting it in one year is impossible; even two years would likely be insufficient. Phased removal is essential, and without concurrent contraception, births will continue, keeping the gap between birth rate and offtake stubbornly wide.

The economic implications are equally stark. The opportunity cost is enormous: not just the direct cost of a mass cull, but what is lost in tourism revenue, jobs, and reputational damage over decades. Hunting, for example, might generate perhaps R100 million, but little of that reaches the reserve itself. Tourism, by contrast, brings in close to a R1 billion annually, sustaining livelihoods and communities. To gamble that steady income against short-term, limited gains is, in practical terms, reckless.

Want to see what all the fuss is about? Read more about safaris to Madikwe Game Reserve here. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

Even with careful phasing, reducing the population at this scale may be impossible without significant disruption. Lodges may need to close temporarily or even permanently. Tourism could be halted. The consequences ripple far beyond economics: herd dynamics would be thrown into chaos, and the broader ecosystem would be destabilised.

That being said, culling may now be the only realistic option, but it will demand extraordinary planning. Only a clever, meticulously conceived plan could reduce Madikwe’s elephants without simultaneously collapsing tourism. Otherwise, the reserve faces the classic dilemma: damned if they do, risking tourism, jobs, and reputation; damned if they don’t, risking uncontrolled elephant growth and ecological degradation.

This is the result of decades of inaction and neglect. It is not an easy choice, and it is not one to be taken lightly. It will be interesting to see the imminent report by the Madikwe elephant task team and what its purpose is.

Considering the range of issues involved – briefly outlined here but examined in more depth in my full report – the matter still requires a stronger team of experts to provide decision-makers with practical solutions.

Roger Collinson has worked at the intersection of conservation and tourism for more than 50 years. He began his career with the Natal Parks Board in the 1970s and 1980s, where he helped draft South Africa’s first trophy hunting legislation and was later named South African Conservationist of the Year by PHASA.

With over three decades of experience in research, protected area planning, management, and development, Collinson has worked across South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, Madagascar, and Lesotho. He has served as both a hands-on manager and a technical advisor to governments, NGOs, and private sector organisations in wildlife conservation, tourism, and community-based natural resource management (CBNRM). As Director and Executive Chairman of Bop Parks (the National Parks Board of Bophuthatswana – now North West Parks and Tourism Board), he oversaw the development of Pilanesberg National Park and Madikwe Game Reserve – both recognised with national and international awards. His academic background includes a B.Sc. in Zoology and Entomology, a B.Sc. Honours in Entomology, and an M.Sc. from the Institute of Natural Resources, University of Natal. Over his career, Collinson has played a key role in planning and managing various reserves. Today, he works in Namibia, facilitating joint ventures between communal conservancies and professional hunting outfitters, often navigating the transition between hunting and tourism. His experience informs his balanced perspective on complex issues such as culling, trophy hunting, and land-use decisions.

Further reading

Trophy hunting to return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg? AG broke the news that hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – per a tender from the North West Parks and Tourism Board

Madikwe Game Reserve is a malaria-free safari haven and conservation success story that benefits people, wildlife and the ecosystem

THIS WEEK – 12 September 2025

Are sustainable safaris real? + Victoria Falls + wild Madagascar

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

You asked, and we listened! It is now easy and intuitive to discover our crafted safari ideas to spark the imagination and start planning your next experiential safari with us. Click or tap here to see what’s on offer and refine your selection using the filters on the left. Rather than hijacking this precious time with you, I have made a video of the discovery process that you can watch below my editorial.

On another topic, thanks for all the feedback and comments on social media and in our app about the complex issues we cover via our conservation publishing. Thanks also for understanding, respecting and supporting us in our journey towards being the coolest safari company in the world, where truth and responsibility are as important as having a superb safari holiday!

Meanwhile, bushveld temperatures are spiralling upwards as we transition into summer and hope for good early rains. Wahlberg’s eagles are back from their wanderings, fat geckos have reappeared under every wall-light fitting, mozzies irritate at night, and tall knobthorn trees are replacing their scented white blooms with vibrant green crowns. Life is good.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Wild Madagascar – lemurs, baobabs & Tsingy – 10 days – from US$9,525pps

Discover wild Madagascar on this connoisseur safari that takes you deep into Madagascar’s remote corners, where rare wildlife and rich local culture await. Explore the Ifotaka Community Forest with the Antandroy tribe and search for Verreaux’s sifaka and white-footed sportive lemurs. Then head northwest to Namoroka’s surreal tsingy landscapes, home to 10 lemur species, flying foxes, tenrecs, fossa, and the elusive aye-aye.

Bush & beach safari – 7 days – from ZAR62,790pps

A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Good news from Zambia: leopards and wild dogs are thriving in Kafue National Park. Where do the baby sea turtles of the western Indian Ocean go after their frantic dash into the surf? For decades, scientists called it the “lost years”: when hatchlings vanish into the sea and reappear on the beaches where they were born years later, with no clues to where they’ve been.

Thanks to a new computer model, we may now have answers. Researchers “released” thousands of virtual hatchlings into digital currents of the Mozambique Channel to predict where they go. The results? The model suggests that green turtles cruise up East Africa, hawksbills island-hop near the equator, while loggerheads and leatherbacks loop around southern Africa. If we know where young turtles travel, we know where they’re most at risk, and where conservation efforts should focus. Protecting nesting beaches is only half the battle. The real challenge is safeguarding their watery highways across the high seas.

This week, we bring you a fresh look at sustainable safaris – and take you to Victoria Falls, where thundering mist meets magic, and unforgettable safari romance. Check these out below!

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

SUSTAINABLE SAFARIS
Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall: a breathtaking African safari destination of myth, magic & romance

VICTORIA FALLS
Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall: a breathtaking African safari destination of myth, magic & romance

African safari: Our safari guests say…

AG safari guests, Steve and Anne from the UK, went on a dream Southern Africa trip to Victoria Falls, Khwai and the Garden Route:

Southern Africa Trip of a Lifetime – ”Ben from AG made this trip to Southern Africa seamless and fantastic. This was my wife’s turn at a ‘trip of a lifetime’ and AG delivered. All the transfers and hotels were fantastic and allowed us the freedom along the Garden Route to get to the places we wanted to go. We needed the expertise of southern African safari experts for this, and Ben delivered.”

Find your dream safari here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Soil is vital for plant growth, supports biodiversity, filters water, and keeps ecosystems balanced. But in Kenya, worsening droughts have left the soil damaged and dry, threatening both nature and local communities. But one surprisingly simple method being implemented by the Maasai community is transforming barren lands into thriving ecosystems. (10:13)
Click here to watch

*Cover photo: Pillars through pillars. Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana. © Sabine Stols
Photographer of the Year 2021 entry.

Victoria Falls – the smoke that thunders

The rivers of Africa are her lifeblood. Streams trickle down the mountains and gradually unite to form some of the most spectacular and biodiverse waterways, carving gorges across the continent. Nothing, not even geography, can hold them back as they tumble off cliffs and through dramatic ravines. As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little introduction.

Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of breathtaking vistas, verdant vegetation, thrill-seeking and water thundering down into gorges, releasing spray that can often be seen kilometres away. The falls are also officially known as Mosi-oa-Tunya or “The Smoke That Thunders” in the Lozi language of the area – a name that perfectly captures the almost mystical atmosphere of this World Heritage Site. Victoria Falls is a place of myth, magic, and romance.

Check out our Victoria Falls safari ideas here. We have many Victoria Falls safaris available in both Zambia and Zimbabwe, and many other experiences to choose from. Or, ask us to build the perfect safari, tailored just for you.

Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River

Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River

The world-famous Victoria Falls marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, where the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a fractured basalt plateau into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. Though not the tallest waterfall (on land, this title is held by Angel Falls in Venezuela), at an impressive width of 1,708 meters, the Victoria Falls creates the single largest continuous falling curtain of water in the world. At the height of the rainy season, five hundred million cubic meters of water hurtle over the edge every minute, sending up clouds of rainbow spray. From there, the river is forced through a narrow and twisting path between walls of steep rock – a churning tumble of Grade V rapids ideal for thrill-seekers looking to test their nerve.

Zambia lies on the northern and eastern sides of the falls (topographically slightly higher), while Zimbabwe is situated south and west. The neighbouring cities of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are thriving tourism hubs easily accessed by road, rail or air. Upstream of the falls, the Zambezi River flows across an almost flat basalt plateau in a shallow valley teeming with wildlife and dotted with sedate luxury lodges away from the bustle of the central tourism regions. The Victoria Falls Bridge connects the two countries – a 1905 marvel of engineering that spans the Second Gorge, designed as part of Cecil Rhodes’ Cape to Cairo Railway vision.

Zimbabwe or Zambia?

For those new to Victoria Falls, the first question is usually where to stay – the Zimbabwean or the Zambian side? Fortunately, crossing over to either side is a relatively painless process that requires a simple visa purchase and can be easily accomplished on foot. While both sides offer spectacular views of the falls and most activities, there are subtle differences between the two towns and certain attractions that can only be accessed from one or the other side.

Victoria Falls is the smallest of the two towns and is almost entirely tourism-based, with many backpackers, cafes, lively bars, and colourful local markets. The falls are just two kilometres away. Livingstone is slightly larger and offers a more city-like feel and a better representation of authentic local life. It is situated somewhat further from the falls, but the Zambian side is known for its stunning accommodation options along the riverside.

The Falls as seen from the Zimbabwean side

Around two-thirds of Victoria Falls is situated on the Zimbabwean side, which means more viewpoints are accessible from this side. It is also slightly lower than the Zambian side, and during the dry season (see below), water still flows even if the Zambian side has dried up completely.

However, the lower water levels at the start of the dry season open up the seasonal chance to visit Livingstone Island and Devil’s Pool, which are only accessible from the Zambian side. Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls. However, given that the island sits right on the edge of the largest waterfall in the world, one has to imagine that he had an inkling before then.

Devil’s Pool is accessible during the low-water season

Whatever the case, the island is still a historical landmark and marks the site where Livingstone reeled out a length of calico weighted with a bullet to measure the height of the falls. From there, courageous visitors can swim out to either Angel’s Armchair (June-August) or the more famous Devil’s Pool (late August-December). Here, thousands of years of erosion have excavated a deep pool, with a thick rock wall right at the edge of the falls that allows tourists to take daredevil photographs without being carried over the edge by the current. It is vital to accompany experienced tour guides to these attractions, as rigorous safety measures and an intimate knowledge of the river are essential.

Adrenaline capital of the world

Devil’s Pool is just one of the many adventures on offer in Victoria Falls that have marked it as the “adrenaline capital of Africa”. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and present some of the best white water rafting in the world. Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy, safe in the knowledge that expert guides are on hand to assist as necessary. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it), but the calm stretches also allow for peaceful moments of quiet appreciation of the exquisite gorge views. White water rafting is only possible at certain times of the year – depending on the rainfall. It is guaranteed during your August safari and in September, but the season may extend between June and September.

White-water rafting can be done during August and September

Suppose rafting alone is not sufficient to fill one’s adrenaline quota. In that case, there are several other anxiety-inducing options, including bungee jumping or swinging off the Victoria Falls Bridge, cable gliding/ziplining, abseiling, skydiving and microlight flights. After all that excitement, it is essential to decompress with a more sedate activity like a sunset cruise, a train trip with canapes and cocktails or even the time-honoured tradition of a High Tea in a historical setting.

Micro-lighting over the Falls in full mist — Microlighting over the Falls in full mist

Seasons and water levels

The Falls are usually at their most dramatic from late February to May, when the most water tumbles into the chasm below and a curtain of spray hovers over the Falls. The flip side of this is that there is a chance that the rainbow-lit spray may partially obscure the Falls. After months of dry weather, the falls begin to reduce in size and reach their lowest levels towards the end of the year when bare rock faces are clearly visible, particularly on the Zambian side. This, too, presents different opportunities for visitors, allowing them unobscured views of the falls and the opportunity to go rafting.

At certain times of the day, the mist from the waterfall catches the light at just the right angle, creating arched rainbows. Viewed from the forest amidst clouds of butterflies and accompanied by the cries of trumpeter hornbills, the effect is like something out of a fairy tale. Possibly even more magical are the lunar rainbows, visible for three nights a month.

A depiction of seasonal Victoria Falls water levels © Africa Albida Tourism

Your safari to Victoria Falls

A Victoria Falls trip offers the perfect escape for almost every traveller, from the solo adventurer and budget-strapped student to families with children and romantic couples. There is a vast range of hospitality options, from shared accommodation in backpacking establishments to ultra-luxurious lodges on the Zambezi banks. The lively towns are filled with historical and cultural experiences.

Two small national parks protect the falls and their surroundings: the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and its twin, the Victoria Falls National Park, on the opposite side of the river. Neither are ‘Big 5’ reserves, but they are teeming with wildlife. Elephants are everywhere in Victoria Falls (and should be treated with the requisite respect and caution).

Visitors can spend time tracking rhinos on foot in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Those searching for a more traditional safari experience (and large predators) can visit the nearby Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe or travel further afield to Hwange National Park, or Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Upstream, canoe safaris navigate between hippos and crocodiles while admiring elephants feeding on the banks and searching for the nearly 470 bird species found in the Victoria Falls region.

Comfortable shoes with sufficient traction are always good, especially for the slippery paths around viewpoints or descending into the gorge. Waterproofing for all equipment is essential, especially when water levels are high.

Dawn over Victoria Falls from a footpath on the Zimbabwean side

Epic experiences at Victoria Falls

With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Check out our comprehensive list of things to do at Victoria Falls here, or see a few highlights below.

Guided tours of the Falls

A guided walking tour of the Falls is one of the most rewarding ways to experience this natural wonder. Led through the rainforest by an expert, you’ll not only witness the spectacle from the best viewpoints but also gain insight into the history, geology, and ecology of the area. Guides point out birdlife, trees, and seasonal highlights that often go unnoticed, while the dense spray, at times falling like rain, adds to the exhilaration. Raincoats are provided during high-water months when the vapour rises thick and heavy.

The ‘Flight of Angels’

For a perspective that even David Livingstone could only imagine, helicopter flips, aptly called the Flight of Angels, offer panoramic aerial views. Specially designed bubble windows give passengers unobstructed vistas of the Zambezi River snaking toward the edge, the curtain of water tumbling into the Batoka Gorge, and the rainbow mist that rises hundreds of metres into the sky.

Zambezi sunset cruises

Upstream of the falls, the Zambezi takes on a calmer, more reflective character. Sunset cruises drift between islands and sandbanks as the sky turns gold and crimson. Hippos surface with grunts, elephants wade in the shallows, and birds skim low over the water. Sundowners and snacks complete the ritual, making it one of the most relaxing ways to end a day of adrenaline.

Cultural encounters

Beyond the natural drama, Victoria Falls offers memorable cultural experiences. The Boma Restaurant in Zimbabwe blends food with theatre, where guests dine on venison and traditional dishes while dancers, drummers, and storytellers bring local culture to life. Meanwhile, the craft markets and galleries brim with sculpture, textiles, and carvings: handmade works that carry the stories of the region’s artisans.

Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma

Whether you come for the thundering spray at its peak or the adrenaline of low-water adventures, Victoria Falls offers an ever-changing spectacle. Each season reveals a different face of this natural wonder, reminding travellers that no two visits are ever quite the same.

Resources

Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list: Things to do in Victoria Falls
Is it better to view Victoria Falls from Zambia, or Zimbabwe? Read our synopsis: Which side is best – Zambia or Zimbabwe?

Sustainable safaris: Can tourism truly protect nature?

They say that tourism is one of the best ways to pay for nature conservation. But is this always the case? When planning a safari to Africa, it is essential to remember that how we travel can be just as impactful as where we travel. Safari tourism has helped protect mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, and supported endangered African penguin colonies in South Africa; however, it has also placed a strain on ecosystems when not managed properly. Overcrowding at Wildebeest Migration river crossings, proposals for large-scale lodge expansions in the Maasai Mara and Serengeti, and poorly sited developments along migration routes show how quickly a positive force can tip into harm. As Africa’s safari destinations grow in popularity, travellers are increasingly faced with a choice: will their journeys contribute to conservation and community resilience, or will they inadvertently add pressure to already fragile systems?

There is a complex balance between tourism, conservation, and overtourism. Responsible decisions by travellers, operators, and policymakers can help ensure that nature truly benefits from our presence. To safeguard Africa’s protected areas, we would do well to heed the warnings from overtourism elsewhere, learning from the missteps on other continents to better reflect on – and improve – our own approach

In Bali, Indonesia, tourism can sometimes be a liability rather than a benefit. Sixty-five percent of Bali’s freshwater supplies are funnelled to tourism. A hotel room in Bali consumes up to 800 litres of water daily, whereas the Bali residents use only 200 litres of water per person per day. The impacts of tourism also ripple into culture – residents have complained about tourists’ disrespectful treatment of spiritual ceremonies, particularly the water cleansing Melukat ceremonies. Tourists have co-opted these ceremonies as opportunities for social media content, rather than as moments of inner reflection and peace.

Moving to colder climes: Antarctica, a sensitive environment with fragile ecosystems, received more than 100,000 tourists in the 2024 tourist season. This is a system where the risk of introducing invasive plant species is high, and where vegetation can take years to recover from just a single footprint. Each tourist arrival accounts for an average of 83 tons of snow loss, as the black soot emitted by cruise ships hastens melting by absorbing sunlight. Regulating tourism is tricky because the Antarctic Treaty is the only governance entity and operates on a consultative basis. There is currently no science-based regulatory framework in place to protect the Antarctic from the increasing impacts of human activities.

Clearly, the forces driving tourism can result in negative consequences if not properly managed.

This leads us to the question: how do we manage overtourism?

It’s not as simple as ‘cutting down the number of tourists’ visiting a protected area (or scenic hotspot or natural wonder). Money plays a big role in the equation, and at first glance, more tourism means more money. For years, conservationists have been advocating for ecotourism as a sustainable financial mechanism to fund and maintain nature and protected areas, and it has, indeed, succeeded in many instances. Some examples include gorilla tourism’s contribution to the protection of mountain gorillas and their forest habitat in Rwanda and Uganda, and how ecotourism has supported the conservation of the African penguin in South Africa (Michler 2024).

Globally, tourism generated a record US$1.6 trillion in 2024, and in Africa, the travel and tourism market is projected to reach a market volume of US$35.98bn by 2030. But this could potentially lead to environmental harm. For example, in January 2024, when the Serengeti National Park reported plans to increase the number of lodges in the park by 250% and the number of permanent tented camps by 300%, the UNESCO World Heritage Site authorities threw up their hands in horror. They asked the park about the potential environmental impacts of “the increasing density of… tourism infrastructure… on the wildebeest migration”. “And the Serengeti is not alone in facing such pressures. Elsewhere in East Africa, similarly troubling developments are underway. In the Maasai Mara, plans for a Ritz-Carlton hotel to be built in an established migration pathway appear to be moving forward.

Clearly, lines need to be drawn in the sand. Who decides where to place the lines, and how do they make their choice?

Existing measures to curb tourist numbers

Governments and other authorities have imposed bans on tourists and introduced restrictive measures to protect places of significance. In the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, tourism is regulated by rules such as walking on marked trails, guided visits to protected areas, and prohibiting private yachts at key natural sites. In Okinawa, Japan, visitor numbers to Iriomote Island are capped at 1,200 per day to protect endangered species.

In Africa, the drive to prevent overtourism is also present.

For example, in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, SANParks enforces daily gate quotas (with advance pre-booking) so gates can close to further day-visitors once thresholds are reached, specifically to avoid overcrowding of roads and facilities.

Mokoro safari in the Okavango Delta. Botswana’s high‑value, low‑volume helps prevent overcrowding in sensitive areas like the Okavango Delta

In Botswana, the National Ecotourism Strategy, launched in 2002, established a high‑value, low‑volume (HVLV) tourism model. This intentionally limits tourist numbers while encouraging higher per‑visitor spending. The goal is to minimise environmental impacts while maximising revenue for conservation and local communities. By focusing on fewer but higher‑paying visitors, Botswana avoids overcrowding in sensitive areas like the Okavango Delta, supports conservation funding, and preserves wilderness quality.

In Namibia’s Dorob National Park, situated along the country’s central coast, tourism activities are strictly regulated through zoning and permitting. Recreational uses like powered flights, commercial operations, structure-building, and wildlife disturbance (feeding, hunting, chasing, etc.) are prohibited unless with a permit from the Ministry of Environment and Tourism. Also in Namibia, Communal Wildlife Conservancies, legally recognised under the Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) framework (since the mid-1990s), allow local communities to manage land and wildlife. Communities partner with tourism operators to offer guided tours, lodges, and safari services, while wildlife revenues fund community development projects. By distributing the economic benefits of tourism directly to communities – and giving them a stake in maintaining healthy wildlife populations – this model disperses tourism pressure more evenly across landscapes and promotes sustainable stewardship. This zoning and permitting scheme helps preserve fragile habitats, such as breeding areas for birds, and curtails reckless tourism that could damage ecosystems or lead to overtourism hotspots.

In Kenya’s Maasai Mara, park fees have increased as a means to curb overcrowding at wildlife sightings. Yet, this has not prevented chaos at some river crossings.

These measures have sometimes been implemented when the crowds have already had negative repercussions, and they require heavy regulation, which bears further costs. Is there a way to do things differently? Tourism is more than just tourists, so evidently, we need to look at the bigger picture.

What is tourism, and why does it sometimes become too much? The travel and tourist industry can be defined as “…essentially the renting out for short-term lets of other people’s environments, whether this is a coastline, a city, a mountain range, or a rainforest.” The crunch comes when the costs exceed the income, such as when costly externalities occur (for example, tourists littering the beach). When this happens, few prosper and many lose. Extending the beach-littering example, there are many cases where hotel owners happily collect accommodation revenue, but do not pay for the beach to be cleaned up, basically externalising the costs to the public purse.

Interestingly, the label of “overtourism” often comes first from the people who are being affected by the consequences, such as local communities. Therefore, to some degree, the categorisation of overtourism has been in the eye of the beholder. Not surprisingly, local communities often raise the red flag because they are recipients of the impacts, whether this is the inconvenience of their town being overrun by tourists or their parks’ vegetation being trampled flat by increasing foot traffic. The takeaway from this is that tourism needs to be done hand in hand with local people. However, the flow of tourists is also subject to broader forces beyond local stakeholders. For example, once destinations gain popularity, they tend to remain in high demand, even when they are already under pressure from overtourism, making it difficult to tip the scale toward lesser-known alternatives.

Environmental tracking and analysis site Murmuration noted that 80% of the world’s tourists visited only 10% of global destinations!

Maasai Mara — Wildebeest cross the Mara River

Is the concept of “tourist carrying capacity” a useful one?

There is comfort in numbers, and many have tried to pin down the ‘tourist carrying capacity’ of a place or park. Yet such calculations are often built on shaky assumptions and imprecise methods. For one thing, different carrying capacity assessments of the same area yield varying numbers, and, as Spencely (2022) notes, land does not have an inherent carrying capacity.

Carrying capacity does not take into consideration that what a park manager values from the land may differ significantly from what a resident values. Therein lies the crunch. How many tourists are too many, and when do you know that tourism impacts have crossed a threshold? When does Plant Species A’s population decline by 31,45%? When does the mayor of the town tell the residents to stay indoors to make room for the tourists? When do tourists use more water than residents do? How do you create one number that meets all of these criteria?

Tourism impact is not always directly related to numbers; it is often more linked to the behaviour and actions of tourists (Spencely 2022). Perhaps the question needs to be flipped: Will the destination use tourism or be used by it?

A systemic approach to overtourism

Instead of asking how many “too many” is, we could ask, “What are the desired conditions?” (Spenceley 2022). Overtourism management (aka crowd control) needs to encompass context, communities, visitor experience and the entire travel chain. It’s possible to turn tourism management on its head to become more proactive – by intentionally providing a suite of tourism opportunities and diversity of settings to maximise experiences, whilst minimising impact. This doesn’t sound very easy, but there are tools in the tourism toolbox that can guide this type of proactive, holistic approach. Take, for example, how the Interagency Visitors Management Council (IVMC) manages visitor use in the California State Parks in America through the use of a ‘Visitor Use Management Framework’ (VUMF). This Framework provides a planning process for the IVMC to find a way to maximise benefits for visitors while proactively preserving the environmental, social and managerial conditions that they prefer. They used the framework to develop clearly defined and transparent outcomes to be achieved and how these will be monitored. And by its very nature, a VUMF integrates the values and preferences of all the constituents (managers, travel agents, tourists, communities). These values are considered just as important to sustainability as the remediation of the biophysical impacts. In other words, there is shared commitment and accountability.

The IVMS Council needed a defensible, transparent decision-making process, and the four building blocks of the VUMF provide this. In a nutshell, the framework integrates (a) identifying desired conditions for resource, visitor experiences, and facilities, (b) understanding how visitor use influences the achievement of those goals, (c) developing and implementing strategies to manage visitor use, and (d) monitoring, evaluating, and adjusting management actions. Frameworks could be considered an ‘antidote’ to relying on the reactive strategy of using ‘tourist carrying capacity.’ Instead, the sweet spot of sustainability lies in the inclusion of all roleplayers’ needs, values and the shared responsibility of setting intentional goals and desired outcomes. The VUMF has been used by many other US parks and in many protected areas and tourist destinations around the world, including in Costa Rica, Belize, Chile, and Mexico. Other frameworks include the Visitor Impact Management (VIM), Visitor Activity Management Process (VAMP), the Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) and the Visitor Experience and Resource Protection (VERP) (see Spencely 2022 for a review).

So, what is the tourist’s role in responsible safaris?

If you visit Africa’s beautiful nature reserves and protected areas, then you too can contribute to sustainable or responsible tourism:

You could intentionally choose sustainable destinations and tour operators.
You could opt to travel in green season, rather than peak season – reducing pressure on the ecosystem you are visiting.
You could take responsibility for your behaviour and decisions while travelling. For example, tourists to New Zealand are encouraged to commit to the Tiaki Agreement, which promotes caring for New Zealand’s nature and communities, inspiring visitors to form a deeper connection with the place, and to reflect this in their attitudes and behaviours.
You could support initiatives that prioritise local needs.
You could offset your travel carbon footprint.

Overtourism is not just a distant problem – it is a challenge we face here in Africa’s most treasured landscapes. From the Serengeti to Kruger National Park, the choices of travellers, operators, and policymakers determine whether tourism becomes a force for protection or a source of pressure. By travelling responsibly, supporting sustainable destinations, and respecting local communities and ecosystems, each of us can help ensure that Africa’s wildlife, landscapes, and cultures continue to thrive. The future of these iconic places depends on thoughtful decisions today – because true adventure is only meaningful when it leaves the world better than we found it.

When planning your African safari, who you travel with matters. Choosing a responsible tour operator ensures your journey supports conservation, uplifts local communities, and avoids the pitfalls of overtourism. By selecting destinations that prioritise sustainability over volume, you can experience Africa’s wild beauty in a way that protects it for generations to come. Check out our safari ideas here, or let our travel experts plan the perfect African safari for you by clicking here.

References

Michler, I. 2024. Ecotourism: An apparent panacea or a looming conundrum?

Spenceley, A. 2022. Briefing Paper on Sustainable Visitation Frameworks for Protected Areas. 10.13140/RG.2.2.26969.43368.

THIS WEEK – 5 September 2025

Wild dog diet decoded + reefs & elephants in Maputo NP + lion collar update

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

DO YOU KNOW how difficult it is to do good?

You will know by now that we donate a portion of the proceeds of every safari we craft for our guests to projects that make a difference at ground level for people and wildlife.

One such chosen project has been sponsoring lion research collars in the greater Hwange region. These free-roaming lions face huge pressure – from poaching, loss of prey base and habitat, to human-wildlife conflict and trophy hunting. These collars enable researchers to better understand lion movements and help keep roaming lions away from villages in this vast, unfenced landscape, thereby reducing loss of human lives and livelihoods. Local people are gainfully employed doing the research and responding by chasing the lions away from villages when the GPS collars trigger an alarm. It’s a win-win.

The collars are, unfortunately, ineffective at protecting the lions against trophy hunters with low or no ethical standards. Witness the hullabaloo surrounding the legal but deeply unethical killing of Blondie and a string of other Hwange pride males over the years.

Our support for local conservation projects comes at a cost to them. We insist on mutual respect, transparency, and exemplary ethical standards. This is not negotiable or up for debate.

And so I regretfully announce that, for now, we have shifted our geographical focus for sponsored lion research collars away from Hwange. We will continue to support lion research elsewhere via our donations, and we are now actively engaging with other research teams. I will keep you posted.

YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!

A luta continua 🙂

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click below to listen to this editorial

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

South Luangwa, Victoria Falls & Lake Malawi safari – 13 days – from US$8,280pps

Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the raw wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and ultimate relaxation.

Zambia luxury safari – Lower Zambezi & South Luangwa – 7 days – from US$8,370pps

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Good news from Zambia: leopards and wild dogs are thriving in Kafue National Park. This, according to Musekese Conservation, a nonprofit monitoring wildlife in the Musekese-Lumbeya section of the park. Camera-trap surveys in the area identified 95 individual leopards. At densities of up to nine leopards per 100km², some sections of the park rank among the most leopard-rich landscapes in Southern Africa. And if that’s not good news enough, wild dogs have also rebounded in Kafue – from a single pair to three active packs, with a brand-new pack spotted this year. Lions remain scarcer, but their numbers are slowly climbing too.

These results highlight what determined protection and conservation partnerships can achieve: a landscape where wildlife has a real chance to flourish again.

This week, we bring you a double dose of wild: a deep dive into Mozambique’s Maputo National Park, and fresh insights into the secret dining habits of African wild dogs.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

MAPUTO NATIONAL PARK
Discover Mozambique’s Maputo National Park – a wild mosaic of elephants, dunes, forests, reefs, and turtle-nesting beaches

WILD DOG DIETS
New DNA analysis reveals surprising prey in African wild dog diets, reshaping our understanding of hunting behaviour

Collaring Kruger’s lions

Ten lions in Kruger National Park are currently part of an exciting project aiming to provide insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. Nelson Mandela University researchers (NMU), vets and teams from the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) fit satellite-tracking collars on the lions.

This vital project aims to compare various behaviours between open and fenced systems by:

Testing the effect of pride strength on territory size;
Measuring territory infringement;
Testing the pride’s aggressive response during territory infringements;
Comparing stress levels of prides; and
Comparing the ratio of prey resource availability to home range size.

You can help in this important study by sponsoring a collar in full or by donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

A poignant short documentary exploring how SANParks uses different types of K9s as part of their approach to combating poaching in Kruger National Park. (21:28)
Click here to watch

*Cover photo: Look into the light – a rare golden monkey shifts its gaze to the sky, mid-snuggle, just as a shaft of light penetrates the forest. Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. © Sam Wallace – Photographer of the Year 2021 Top 101 entry

Maputo National Park

Mozambique, a country celebrated for its vivid coastlines and vibrant cultural tapestry, is home to one of the most important ecological treasures in Southern Africa: Maputo National Park. Stretching across the country’s southern tip, near the borders of South Africa and Eswatini, the park forms the heart of the Maputaland Centre of Endemism – a globally recognised hotspot of biodiversity and ecological importance, and one of the 36 most biologically diverse and endangered regions in the world

Born from the merger of two distinct reserves – the Maputo Special Reserve (Reserva Especial de Maputo) and the Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve – the park now protects over 1,700 km² of terrestrial and marine wilderness. It is also central to the Usuthu-Tembe-Futi Transfrontier Conservation Area, which reconnects fragmented habitats across international borders. The Futi Corridor links Maputo to South Africa’s Tembe Elephant Park, while the Ponta do Ouro coastline meets the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site in neighbouring South Africa.

Mozambican gem

Only a two- to three-hour drive from the capital, Maputo, this park offers both accessibility and adventure —a rare combination for those eager to immerse themselves in wild landscapes.

Historically, the area was recognised as a game reserve as early as 1932, to protect the small herds of elephants that roamed the coastal plains. Over the decades, the reserve’s boundaries have expanded, and its status has been elevated, reflecting the growing awareness of its ecological significance worldwide. Today, Maputo National Park stands as a testament to Mozambique’s commitment to conservation, offering a sanctuary for an impressive array of flora and fauna and a haven for nature enthusiasts, conservationists, and ecotourists.

Maputo National Park’s landscapes of contrast

The landscape of Maputo NP is a vivid tableau of contrasts, where coastal dune forests give way to verdant grasslands, and dense thickets and towering fig trees fringe freshwater lagoons. The park’s topography is primarily flat, though interspersed with rolling hills, particularly in the inland regions, which offer panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness.

One of the most striking features of the park is its mosaic of ecosystems. The coastal zone, with its sandy beaches and mangrove swamps, transitions seamlessly into lush coastal forests that are home to myriad plant species, including endemic and rare varieties. Inland, the park is characterised by grasslands interspersed with patches of woodland that thrive on sandy, well-drained soils. These grasslands are punctuated by freshwater lakes and rivers that support abundant aquatic life and provide essential resources for the park’s terrestrial inhabitants.

The park’s connection to the Indian Ocean creates a dynamic interface where terrestrial and marine systems interlace. Offshore, the marine protected zone includes coral reefs, seagrass beds, and nesting beaches that sustain turtles, dolphins, and seasonal humpback whales.

The park’s tropical climate defines its rhythms. From November to March, rains fill rivers and lagoons, bringing lush vegetation and abundant birdlife. The dry season, from April to October, offers easier wildlife viewing because animals gather at dwindling waterholes.

Maputo NP’s experiences for travellers

Maputo National Park offers diverse attractions that cater to the discerning traveller who seeks both adventure and serenity. The park’s appeal lies not only in its natural beauty but also in the variety of experiences it offers.

Elephant Coast

The park’s emblematic elephants – once reduced to a fragile remnant during Mozambique’s civil war – have made a stirring recovery. Herds roam the coastal plains, often framed by the glittering ocean. Few wildlife experiences rival the sight of elephants against a backdrop of dunes and surf.

Lagoa Piti

For those seeking tranquillity and a deeper connection with nature, a visit to Lagoa Piti is a must. This forest-fringed freshwater lake is a sanctuary for birders and quiet seekers. With its mirror-like waters and diverse avian life, Lagoa Piti offers tranquillity and rare sightings in equal measure.

Ponta do Ouro

Renowned for beaches, diving, and dolphins, Ponta do Ouro is the crown jewel of Maputo NP. Diving enthusiasts are particularly drawn to this area, where the underwater world is teeming with life. The coral reefs are alive with kaleidoscopic fish, turtles, and rays. During the summer months, the waters off Ponta do Ouro become a migratory path for humpback whales, offering a rare opportunity for whale watching. Endangered loggerhead and leatherback turtles return to nest on the sandy beaches each summer.

Scenic drives and trails

Travellers can explore on self-drives or guided walks. A highlight is the coastal road from Ponta do Ouro to the mouth of the Maputo River, where the ocean, dunes, and woodland unfold in ever-changing panoramas. For the adventurous, hiking trails thread through woodland and grassland, offering close encounters with the park’s varied ecosystems.

Want to explore more safari destinations in southern Africa? Browse our safari ideas here. Or tell us about your dream trip, and our travel experts will plan your safari.

Wildlife riches

The wildlife of Maputo National Park is as diverse as its landscapes. The park is home to a wide range of species, many of which are of significant conservation concern. The elephant population is perhaps the most iconic of the park’s inhabitants. These elephants, a key focus of the park’s conservation efforts, are often seen in large herds, particularly during the dry season when they gather around the park’s water sources.

In addition to elephants, large mammals such as buffalo, hippo, and antelope, including nyala, suni, and red duiker, also roam. Some species remain elusive, rewarding the patient visitor with fleeting glimpses.

In recent years, Maputo NP has been the stage for one of southern Africa’s most ambitious rewilding projects. Since 2018, the Mozambique National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks Foundation have partnered to restore the park’s ecological heartbeat after decades of conflict and poaching. By 2022, more than 5,100 animals had been translocated, including 11 species that had been locally extinct. Plains game such as kudu, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, eland and buffalo were carefully sourced and released, creating the prey base and ecological diversity needed for a thriving system. The success of these efforts was reflected in the 2021 aerial census, which recorded over 12,000 animals now roaming the park, an extraordinary resurgence in a short space of time.

Building on this foundation, conservationists have begun to reintroduce predators to restore ecological balance. In 2022, five spotted hyenas were translocated from Mozambique’s Sabie Game Park to Maputo National Park, reviving a species once eradicated here. As nature’s consummate scavengers, hyenas play a critical role in recycling nutrients and keeping ecosystems clean. Their arrival signals a new chapter in the park’s revival: not only strengthening predator-prey dynamics but also laying the groundwork for the return of other carnivores, including cheetahs.

Birdlife is particularly rewarding, with over 350 recorded species. Enthusiasts can search for regional specials such as Neergard’s sunbird, pink-throated twinspot, rosy-throated longclaw, Rudd’s and Woodward’s batis, African broadbill, and black coucal.

The marine section amplifies this richness: reefs teem with life, dolphins patrol the shallows, and turtle nesting grounds underscore the park’s global conservation importance.

Mozambique dolphins — A pod of dolphins along the coast of Maputo NP

Explore & stay in Maputo NP

Maputo NP lies about 100km south of Maputo. The journey takes 2–3 hours by road. A 4×4 vehicle is recommended, especially in sandy or wet-season conditions. International travellers can connect via Maputo International Airport.

When it comes to accommodation, there is much to choose from. From luxury eco-lodges and tented camps that blend into the landscape, to rustic campsites under the stars, the park caters for a range of tastes and budgets.

Knowledgeable local guides enrich the experience with ecological insights and help visitors uncover wildlife that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Mozambique — From November to March, rains fill the rivers and lagoons of Maputo NP

The best time to visit Maputo National Park is during the dry season, from April to October. During this time, the weather is generally cooler and drier, making it easier to spot wildlife, which tends to congregate around known water sources. The dry season also offers better road conditions, making it easier to navigate the park. However, for those interested in marine life, particularly turtle nesting or whale watching, the wet season offers unique opportunities, albeit with the challenge of heavier rains and more difficult driving conditions.

A wilderness reborn

Maputo National Park offers a rare combination of natural beauty, biodiversity, and a sense of wilderness that is increasingly hard to find. The park embodies Mozambique’s commitment to restoring wild places and reconnecting ecosystems fractured by conflict and human pressure. It is a park where elephants walk through dunes, forests echo with the calls of rare birds, and turtles return to ancient nesting grounds.

For travellers seeking authentic wilderness, rich biodiversity, and the thrill of exploration, Maputo National Park is a destination that lingers long after you leave.

Further reading

Ultimate bush and beach combo safari: Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose! We bring you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday
Hyena royalty returns to Maputo National Park: Five spotted hyena have been released into Maputo National Park as part of a rewilding journey for this biodiversity hotspot
Limpopo National Park: Explore wild beauty, 4×4 trails, rare wildlife & local culture in Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park – part of a visionary peace park
Saving Mozambique’s last dugongs: How do we save the last dugong population on Africa’s east coast? African Parks and the government of Mozambique are building local understanding of the elusive dugongs of the Bazaruto Archipelago seascape
The Mozambique turquoise coast – from above: A gallery of seductive images of the Mozambique coastline – pack your bags and include your costume, beach towel and suntan lotion

Surprising secrets of African wild dog diets

The African wild dog (painted wolf) has a reputation as a relentless pack hunter, primarily targeting medium-sized antelope like impalas. But recent scientific sleuthing into their scat has painted a more nuanced picture of their dining preferences. DNA analysis has uncovered their surprising dietary habits, challenging long-held beliefs and offering fresh insights for conservation.

Africa’s iconic painted wolves, or African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus), are a species teetering on the brink, listed as endangered since 2012. With only an estimated 600 wild dogs left in South Africa, understanding their ecology and behaviour is essential for their survival. One crucial piece of this puzzle is their diet – what exactly do these highly social carnivores eat? A groundbreaking study by researchers from the University of Pretoria employed DNA metabarcoding, a technique that identifies multiple species within a single environmental sample, to analyse faecal matter from wild dogs across seven distinct landscapes. This method revealed a broader menu than previously documented, including a few unexpected prey species.

The study, conducted by Bridget C. O’Connor and the UP team, specifically focused on the largest wild dog population in South Africa, found within the Kruger National Park. The researchers utilised faecal samples collected across seven different landscape types in KNP.

Traditionally, diet analysis relied on methods like visually examining faecal matter, stomach contents, or direct observation of hunts. While these provided some insights, they often come with logistical limitations and reliability issues, leaving significant gaps in knowledge. But the new methods of DNA metabarcoding and stable isotope analysis (SIA) offer more reliable and accurate dietary predictions. SIA indicates an animal’s trophic level and general prey type, but typically cannot identify specific prey species. DNA metabarcoding, however, can pinpoint species-level diet details by matching DNA barcodes in samples to reference databases.

The usual prey suspects and surprising additions

Previous observations suggested that African wild dogs primarily prey on medium-sized ungulates, with impala (Aepyceros melampus) being their key prey species due to its abundance in most South African reserves, including Kruger National Park. Both the stable isotope analysis and the metabarcoding results from this study supported this existing understanding, identifying impala as the major prey species across almost all landscape types studied.

However, the DNA metabarcoding unveiled some unexpected additions to the wild dog menu, including Cape hares, francolins, and vlei rats. The presence of smaller prey species suggests that highly social, cooperative wild dogs may not always rely on coordinated pack hunts. Instead, individual members might occasionally embark on solo foraging missions, supplementing their diet with opportunistic catches.

This contradicts the traditional view of wild dogs as “rate-maximising optimal foragers” that specialise in abundant medium to large ungulates and forgo opportunistic hunts, indicating a level of adaptability and resourcefulness that challenges the traditional view of their strictly cooperative hunting strategies.

Perhaps the most intriguing detections were those of spotted hyena and elephant DNA. However, this is not necessarily indicative of predation, but rather points to the complex ecological interactions and shared habitats that these canines navigate. Instances of wild dogs consuming elephant dung, perhaps to extract nutrients or target dung beetles, further exemplify their opportunistic feeding habits.

Insights for wild dog conservation

Understanding the full spectrum of the African wild dog’s diet is vital for effective conservation. Recognising their dietary flexibility informs habitat management and prey availability assessments, ensuring efforts align with ecological needs. As populations face threats from habitat fragmentation and human-wildlife conflict, insight is key for crafting protection plans. In this light, DNA metabarcoding is a game-changer, enriching knowledge of wild dog ecology and highlighting the potential of advanced genetic tools in research. Faecal samples provide a “short-term snapshot” of diet (up to four days), often more accurate for resolving landscape-specific differences than the “long-term information” from hair samples.

By unveiling hidden aspects of feeding behaviour, scientists can better predict how these predators adapt to environmental change. Precise knowledge of wild dog diet also improves nutritional protocols for captive populations and informs translocation decisions. In South Africa, many wild dogs belong to managed or free-roaming groups overseen by organisations such as the Endangered Wildlife Trust, which may hold them temporarily to aid translocations. This insight enhances conflict mitigation and provides clearer indicators of ecosystem health. The study also identified priorities for future research, including more comprehensive prey DNA databases, blocking host DNA amplification, and ensuring fresh samples for stronger results.

This research marks a significant step forward in our understanding of the African wild dog’s ecological role. By peering into wild-dog dietary habits through the lens of DNA analysis, researchers have uncovered a previously unappreciated level of dietary breadth and behavioural adaptability – moving beyond general assumptions to uncover the hidden truths of their daily meals. These detailed findings are crucial for ensuring the long-term survival of these magnificent predators in the wild.

Want to see wild dogs on an African safari? Check out this unique safari focused on finding wild dogs. We also have other ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.

Reference

O’Connor, B.C., Crossey, B., Hall, G., Ganswindt, A., Oosthuzen, C.J. All in the details: A first assessment for the viability of metabarcoding in diet composition analysis of African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus). Ecology and Evolution 2024 Nov 13;14(11):e70526.

Further reading

Painted predators, vanishing prey – a wild dog crisis: The African wild dog is hunting harder for less due to prey scarcity caused by poaching. Can they overcome this changing landscape?
New hope for Tsavo’s wild dogs: Tsavo’s African wild dogs face major threats: Tsavo Trust & Painted Wolf Foundation are working to save these painted dogs. Here’s how
Kids eat first – research on wild dog feeding habits: New research shows that there is order in wild dog hunts. Painted wolf pups are the first to eat at a carcass
Hope for African wild dogs?: Could we double African wild dog (painted wolf) numbers by 2050? With funding, collaboration and recovered territory, it’s possible.
The 6 top places to see painted wolves: Looking for the best place to see African painted wolves? We bring you six of our favourite spots to scout for wild dogs

THIS WEEK – 29 August 2025

Soul of the safari + best of bush & beach + 4 giraffes

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

Shhhhh, it’s a secret!

The soul of a safari is not about ticking off the Big 5 or witnessing Mara River crossings during the Great Wildebeest Migration, although those are indeed extremely special encounters to be cherished. It’s the moments in between (or in place of) these encounters that define a memorable journey.

Our treasured repeat safari guests often share with us the moments they remember for years as they go about their everyday lives on the treadmill of working life.

Our guests love watching predators converge on alates (flying termites) emerging after the first rains – from eagles to leopards, toads to chameleons – all gorging on those parcels of nutrition. Next time, try tasting the termites to see what the fuss is all about – delicious!

They relish the quickening of senses, that narrowing of focus, when walking near dense thickets and hearing oxpeckers chirring their alarm calls from above.

And they know the joyous freedom and fulfilment that comes from skipping an early morning game drive to stroll around the lodge gardens looking for birds before settling on the deck with a mug of coffee and freshly baked biscuits.

Our connoisseur guests enjoy the luxury of not seeing another human during a game drive, as often happens in remote areas off the beaten tourism tracks and outside of the busy peak safari season.

If you yearn to experience the true soul of a safari, start the discussion with one of our safari experts.

This essay was powered by a heady blend of pressed coffee and a bushveld dawn chorus. Bliss. Peace out

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click below to listen to this editorial

Or, listen to all Simon’s past editorials here

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Sometimes, the smallest creatures carry the biggest weight. Case in point: the speckled dwarf tortoise (Chersobius signatus) – the world’s tiniest tortoise, and South Africa’s latest conservation celebrity.

Thanks to the Endangered Wildlife Trust, the Lokenburg Conservation Servitude has been registered on a farm in the Northern Cape, securing long-term protection for this pocket-sized reptile and its fragile habitat. Within Lokenburg, in the Bokkeveld landscape, special tortoise management zones will help keep pied crows in check, giving the tortoises a fighting chance.

What’s more, the Nel family, who’ve farmed Lokenburg for six generations, are showing how rooibos and livestock farming and biodiversity can thrive side by side.

Their commitment proves that conservation and community livelihoods don’t just coexist – they can actually strengthen each other. And thanks to this cooperation, South Africa’s smallest tortoise just scored one of its biggest wins.

This week, we bring the news that the IUCN has now officially recognised that there are four separate giraffe species, and not just one species with several subspecies. Plus, we bring you our list of the ultimate bush and beach combo safaris.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

ULTIMATE BUSH AND BEACH
Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose! Here are the top combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations

FOUR GIRAFFES
The IUCN has confirmed that there are four giraffe species and not one – reshaping conservation across Africa

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Kenya Highlights safari 8 days – from US$14,070pps

The IUCN has confirmed that there are four giraffe species and not one – reshaping conservation across Africa This luxury safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Nubian/Rothschild’s giraffes up close, see the Big Five, find majestic rhinos – Africa’s unicorns – and unwind in luxurious accommodations amidst breathtaking landscapes. You’ll also engage in a range of activities, ranging from hiking to horseback riding, bush picnics and bush walks.

Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days – from US$7,150pps

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here.

African safari: Our safari guests say…

AG safari guest Aurore from the UK went on a brilliant family safari to Botswana:

“Sally-Anne helped us plan a trip in the Okavango Delta and did an excellent job at it. She listened carefully to our expectations and was able to offer an outstanding itinerary with a variety of landscapes and experiences, which was within our budget. Her knowledge of the area added huge value to the planning process. The execution was flawless with very enjoyable camps and straightforward transfers between camps, and we had a brilliant holiday. Would not hesitate to highly recommend.”

Connect with us today, and let AG start planning your dream safari.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Spy cameras, disguised as dung and an egret, follow a baby elephant who strays from his herd and learns why it’s dangerous to be alone in the wild. (05:06)
Click here to watch

*Cover photo: The Selous spectator sport: lions watching tourists in their natural habitat. Nyerere National Park, Tanzania. © Peter Reitze. Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

Ultimate bush and beach combo safaris

The traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to any trip to Africa – for good reason. Spending time on safari is undoubtedly the perfect balm for the soul. Yet the early mornings and exciting activities of a frenetic safari are best complemented by a few days of relaxing on one of Africa’s magnificent beaches.

But how to choose the best locations? Have a look at our list of the best bush and beach combos.

Check out our safari ideas for your next bush and beach African safari. We have many African safaris and experiences to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Greater Kruger, South Africa & the beaches of Mozambique

The Greater Kruger, South Africa’s premier safari destination, offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent, especially when it comes to seeing the Big 5. With a couple of spectacular sightings under one’s belt, the renowned beaches and azure waters of Mozambique are just a short flight away, offering the perfect Mozambique beach holiday

Here, visitors can recline on white sands (cocktail in hand) or take to the waters to enjoy the cornucopia of oceanic creatures in the Mozambique Channel. The beaches of Ponta Mamoli remain one of Mozambique’s best-kept secrets, despite their proximity to the South African border, while further afield, the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park protect some of the country’s rare marine mammals.

bush and beach safari African safari — The extensive white beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

KwaZulu-Natal province is one of South Africa’s most diverse regions, home to myriad habitats and animal life.

KZN offers many wild opportunities for experiencing the bushveld and wild animals, from verdant forests and wetlands to rolling savannas and grasslands. A number of wildlife reserves – including Big 5 parks such as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park and Manyoni Private Game Reserve – offer a plethora of wildlife experiences. As an added bonus, its long stretch of coastline is lined by characterful and picturesque beaches with stunning year-round weather. The beaches of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are as wild and private as they come, neighbouring Mkuze Game Reserve offers ample wildlife viewing, and just further south, the Dolphin Coast lines the vibrant beach town of Ballito (with magnificent Salt Rock well worth a visit).

South Luangwa, Zambia & Lake Malawi, Malawi

Not so keen on the salty residues of the ocean? How better to wash away the dust and ease tired feet at the end of an invigorating walking safari in South Luangwa than in the crystalline waters of a freshwater lake surrounded by palm-tree fringed beaches?

Walking safaris in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park offer the opportunity to experience enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes, as well as dazzling leopard sightings. After exploring the park, head to the extensive shoreline of Lake Malawi, with its tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges. The lake offers the adventurous tourist a plethora of opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples.

Serengeti National Park & Mafia Island

The Serengeti ecosystem, the ‘place where the land runs forever’, is an essential destination for any avid safari-goer.

bushveld and beach — A cheetah surveys the plains of the Serengeti

Not for nothing is this one of Tanzania’s most popular attractions, and electrifying wildlife experiences are all but guaranteed. So, why not dive into the embrace of the Indian Ocean, soak up the resplendent marine scenery and take a few days to reflect on a life-changing vacation in the privacy of intimate Mafia Island? And why not tick an experience with endangered sea turtles off your list while you’re at it?

The Tanzania tour: quieter safari circuits and an island paradise

Serengeti and Ngorongoro are spectacular for wildlife viewing, but they are not Tanzania’s only safari fare. Some of the less well-known national parks are equally exhilarating, and they are quieter and kinder on the pocket.

Think Gombe and Mahale National Parks for chimpanzees, dry-season Katavi National Park, the predator extravaganza of Ruaha National Park or the wildlife smorgasbord in Nyerere National Park (incorporating Selous Game Reserve). From there, a short trip off the mainland will deposit fortunate travellers on the vibrant island of Zanzibar – an eclectic melting pot of cultures offering a beach holiday unlike any other. Try this epic Ruaha / Mafia Island bush and beach combo

The crystalline waters of Zanzibar beautifully round off a Tanzania safari

Take your pick, Kenya

Ah, Kenya, a country blessed with beauty and wildlife in abundance. Safari options abound in this land of plenty. Take in the iconic scenes framed by Mount Kilimanjaro in Amboseli National Park, search for black leopards in Laikipia County, or revere the giant red tuskers of arid Tsavo East and West National Parks. As if these wildlife delights were not enough, the Kenyan coastline is equally bestowed with impressive holiday destinations, from lively Watamu and Malindi to the more peaceful and reserved Diani and Lamu.

Maasai Mara, Kenya & Seychelles

No visit to Kenya is complete without a stop to appreciate the rolling vistas of the celebrated Maasai Mara at least once. Pack in over a million wildebeest and zebras trundling their way through during the Great Migration, and the scene is set for unforgettable Kenyan experience. And afterwards, why not travel a little further afield to the glorious islands of the breathtaking tropical paradise of Seychelles?

Greater Kruger and Cape Town, South Africa

Greater Kruger is such an epic and easily accessibly option that we had to name it twice. There are few holiday combinations more iconic than Cape Town and the Greater Kruger. Start at the southern tip of Africa, where the Mother City offers a rich mix of culture, history, fine dining, and dramatic natural beauty. From strolling along the vibrant V&A Waterfront to summiting Table Mountain or exploring the Cape Winelands, Cape Town is an adventure in itself.

Once the city lights fade behind you, fly north to immerse yourself in the untamed wilderness of South Africa’s Greater Kruger. Complementing a ocean meets winelands holiday with sightings of leopards, lions, and elephants makes for a world-class experience. The combination of cosmopolitan Cape Town and the raw bushveld drama of the Kruger makes this one of Africa’s most timeless safari-and-beach pairings.

Addo and Garden Route, South Africa

For a family-friendly bush-and-beach pairing, the Eastern Cape and its iconic reserves such as Addo Elephant National Park, coupled with the Garden Route, deliver in spades. The Garden Route’s dramatic coastline winds past lush forests, lagoons, and golden beaches, making it one of the most scenic drives in the world. Towns such as Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, and Wilderness offer plenty of opportunities to relax, hike, or paddle, while whale-watching and marine safaris add a salty twist to the journey.

At the end of the route lies Addo Elephant National Park and a collection of surrounding private reserves, where malaria-free safaris bring visitors face-to-trunk with elephants, lions, and more. This combination is particularly popular with families thanks to its accessibility, variety, and balance of relaxation and adventure – a safari experience wrapped in South Africa’s coastal splendour.

Final thoughts on your bush and beach combo safari

From the thrill of game drives and walking safaris to the restorative calm of palm-fringed shores, bush-and-beach holidays offer travellers a chance to experience Africa in its fullest expression. Whether it’s watching elephants in Greater Kruger before sinking your toes into the sands of Bazaruto, or combining Tanzania’s diverse wildlife with Zanzibar’s vibrant beaches, each pairing brings its own unique rhythm of adventure and relaxation. However you choose to blend the wild with the waves, one thing is certain – Africa’s bush and beach safaris promise a journey you’ll never forget.

Further reading

The ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here are our choices of 15 top wildlife experiences on the continent
Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose, with these African safari destinations offering the best of both ocean & wildlife experiences
The city of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Cape Town to-do list

Four giraffes, not one: Four species officially recognised

For centuries, giraffes were thought to be a single species. Now, after years of debate and groundbreaking research, science has officially recognised four distinct giraffe species. This historic IUCN decision reshapes how the world will conserve Africa’s tallest giants.

The classification of giraffes has proved surprisingly contentious over the past few decades. For centuries, all giraffes were considered a single species, with nine subspecies officially recognised. However, groundbreaking research, significantly advanced by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Senckenberg Biodiversity and Climate Research Centre (SBiK-F), has now confirmed what scientists have suspected for over a decade: there are not one, but four distinct species of giraffe, and seven subspecies. This has been formally recognised in a historic International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) decision. This landmark reclassification is set to reshape giraffe conservation efforts across Africa.

This isn’t taxonomy for taxonomy’s sake. Treating giraffe as four species sharpens conservation priorities, unlocking species-specific action where it’s most needed. As the Giraffe Conservation Foundation puts it, “each giraffe species faces different threats,” so management can now be tailored accordingly, and with more urgency.

A decade of giraffe discovery and debate

The journey to this pivotal decision began over a decade ago. In 2016, collaborative research involving the GCF and SBiK-F first suggested a four-species division based on genetic data. The data showed deep divergences between giraffe populations.

Dr. Axel Janke, a geneticist at SBiK-F and Goethe University, expressed surprise at the “large genetic differences in giraffe” given their seemingly limited morphological and coat pattern variations.

Research showed that these lineages diverged roughly 230–370 thousand years ago: Middle Pleistocene timing comparable to well-known mammal splits. One recent genome study even shows that reticulated giraffe carry ancestry from historical admixture between northern and southern giraffe ~200,000 years ago: ancient mingling that didn’t erase species boundaries.

This initial study, however, sparked considerable debate over the correct classification. Scientists have historically proposed anything from two to nine different giraffe species. The re-evaluation of giraffe taxonomy was critical, particularly as the IUCN had previously recognised only one giraffe species, albeit with nine subspecies, each with a separate conservation status.

And so, the IUCN Species Survival Commission’s Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group (GOSG) Taxonomic Task Force, launched in 2024, embarked on an extensive review.

Prof. Janke and the SBiK-F, together with GCF under Dr Julian Fennessy, spearheaded a continent-wide genomic study that saw researchers collect tissue samples from giraffe populations across Africa, even in politically unstable and remote regions such as Chad, Niger, and South Sudan.

The scientific evidence was compelling, relying on multiple lines of investigation:

Extensive genetic data: Analyses of nuclear and mitochondrial DNA revealed large differences between several giraffe lineages – strong evidence of multiple species. These genetic divergences were profound, so much so that “the differences between giraffe species are as distinct as those between brown and polar bears,” according to Prof. Janke.
Morphological differentiation: Studies of skull structure and bone shape also showed notable differences across regions, complementing the genetic findings.
Biogeographic assessments: Researchers also considered the role of natural barriers, such as major rivers, rift valleys, and arid zones, which could have contributed to the evolutionary isolation of these distinct populations.

Natural barriers such as the Nile River, Lake Victoria, the Kunene and Zambezi Rivers, and climatic/phenological divides help explain why these lineages remained distinct over evolutionary time.

Together, these robust findings provided the scientific support needed to raise certain giraffe populations to full-species status, acknowledging their unique evolutionary histories. “To describe four new large mammal species after more than 250 years of taxonomy is extraordinary,” remarked Prof. Janke, “Especially for animals as iconic as giraffe, which roam Africa in plain sight”.

“This landmark taxonomic revision by the IUCN Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group reflects the best available science and provides a globally standardised framework to inform conservation,” stated Michael Brown, Co-Chair of the IUCN GOSG.

Want to see giraffes on an African safari? Check out our safari ideas here, or let our travel experts plan the perfect African safari for you by clicking here.

Africa’s four giraffe species

The report officially recognises four distinct giraffe species, each with its own subspecies:

Northern giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) – With approximately 7,037remaining, this species is divided into three species: West African (G. c. peralta), Kordofan (G. c. antiquorum), Nubian (G. c. camelopardalis).

Reticulated giraffe (Giraffa reticulata) – With around 20,091 remaining, this species currently has no proposed subspecies.

Masai giraffe (Giraffa tippelskirchi) – Approximately 43,926 individuals remain, and the study suggests the recognition of the following as subspecies: Masai s.s. (G. t. tippelskirchi), Thornicroft’s (G. t. thornicrofti).

Masai giraffes

Southern giraffe (Giraffa giraffa) – The most common, with around 68,836 remaining, it has two subscpecies: South African (G. g. giraffa), and Angolan (G. g. angolensis).

Why this matters for the conservation of giraffes

This isn’t just an academic exercise; it’s a critical turning point for conservation. Recognising four species offers a more nuanced understanding of the unique conservation threats and opportunities each of these distinct taxa faces across the diverse African landscapes they inhabit. As Dr Fennessy emphasised: “This recognition is more than symbolic… Each giraffe species faces different threats, and now we can tailor conservation strategies to meet their specific needs. It gives African countries and the global community the tools to act, before it’s too late”.

The IUCN will now assess each species separately for the Red List. This will also influence national and international conservation policies aimed at preventing giraffe decline. By understanding giraffe taxonomy more precisely, conservationists are better equipped to assess their status and implement effective strategies.

While the latest population assessments for these giraffe species showed current increases for northern, reticulated and southern giraffe, and a stable Masai giraffe population, IUCN assessments look at long timeframes (over a period of three generations or 10 years) and consider factors such as fragmented ranges, and ongoing threats such as poaching and habitat loss when assigning status.

Early signals suggest three of the four may qualify as threatened, reflecting declines and fragmentation that were easy to underestimate when numbers were pooled. This highlights the urgency of the situation. As Stephanie Fennessy, GCF’s Executive Director, profoundly stated: “What a tragedy it would be to lose a species we’ve only just discovered”.

The future of Africa’s giraffes

This historic decision underscores the importance of combining intensive fieldwork with cutting-edge genetics to drive real-world conservation outcomes. Taxonomy, as the GOSG reminds us, is an evolving science, and as new evidence emerges, classifications will continue to be reassessed.

For now, this landmark reclassification lays a crucial foundation for protecting Africa’s magnificent, long-necked giants.

Further reading on giraffes

The giraffe is a wonder of evolution, and a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Read all there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature here.

Why do giraffes have such long necks? Various studies question whether feeding or mating played the bigger role in giraffe neck evolution. Read about Doug Cavener’s exploration into the driving force behind giraffe-neck evolution here, and Rob Simmons exploration into giraffe evolution’s tallest debate

Under pressure – genetic research on giraffes reveals evolutionary secrets of how they cope with high blood pressure and maintain bone density. Read about the pieces of the giraffe evolution puzzle here.

Do giraffes choose their social groups based on appearance? A recent study investigates whether giraffes form bonds based on spot shape

THIS WEEK

50 gorillas, 1 safari + hope in Kunene + captive lion probe

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.

From our CEO – Simon Espley

Did you know?

Odzala-Kokoua NP (Congo-Brazzaville) is the most reliable of only a few places in the world where you can encounter both habituated and unhabituated gorillas?

What’s the difference? Some gorilla families have been habituated to meet small groups of tourists who pay for a trekking permit to spend time with them. Tourists trek in mountainous terrain to find these gorillas and wear masks during their one-hour encounter. On the other hand, it is possible to watch unhabituated gorillas and other wildlife such as forest elephants, forest buffaloes and bongos from an elevated covered tree house overlooking a forest clearing. For gorilla watching, there is no time limit to your stay; you can watch numerous gorillas as they come and go, there is no strenuous hiking involved, no masks to be worn and no trek permit payment.

A few weeks ago, one of our guests, a solo lady traveller, enjoyed both options and saw 50 western lowland gorillas in 14 days. She also saw chimpanzees, bongos, sitatungas, hyenas hunting red river hogs and plenty of forest elephants and forest buffaloes. There is no question in my mind that this is Africa’s most enticing safari offering right now, and that my team is best equipped to make this safari happen for travel connoisseurs. Email Stef to plan your gorilla odyssey.

Oh, just to remind you that Congo-Brazzaville is the small African country to the west of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). The troubled region in the far east of DRC is more than 1,500km from Congo-Brazzaville, which is a peaceful and safe country to visit.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click to listen to this editorial online

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Some animals are so elusive they might as well be folklore, and the African striped weasel is one of them. A slinky little black-and-white ghost, it bounces across the veld in the dead of night, vanishing before most of us even realise it exists. Blink, and you’ll mistake this mysterious carnivore for a polecat. And rumour has it they hunt mole rats inside their tunnels – though we don’t know enough about them to be sure. In truth, most people will never lay eyes on an African striped weasel.

But this secretive carnivore is no myth. A new research project by PhD candidate Kyle Smith from the University of Pretoria aims to uncover how these little predators live, what they hunt, how they move, and where they persist. The biggest challenge? Simply finding them. That’s where citizen science comes in. Sightings, photos, GPS pins, even scat if you’re brave (or unlucky) enough to find it. So, if you’ve crossed paths with a striped shadow on four legs, now’s the time to speak up and report your experience.

This week’s stories take us from hard truths to hopeful horizons: a new study lays bare the risks of South Africa’s commercial lion farming industry, revealing its lack of conservation value, while in Namibia’s Kunene Region, long-awaited rains have brought renewal and fresh life to this remarkable desert landscape and its wildlife.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

KUNENE’S REVIVAL
Rains in Kunene spark hope: wildlife returns, communities rebuild, and conservancies lead recovery in this Namibian desert frontier

CAPTIVE LIONS
A new study of 160+ sources outlines the risks of South Africa’s commercial lion farming industry – warning it may fuel demand for lion body parts

Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas

Bush & beach safari – 7 days – from ZAR62,790pps
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a chic boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.

Ultimate Kafue safari – 7 days – from US$5,590pps
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephants. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating. Free return flights between Lusaka and Kafue are included!

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here.

African safari: Our safari guests say…

AG safari guest Louise, from Australia, went on a magical and life-changing solo adventure to Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville:

“I wanted to go to the Congo Basin, but it was difficult to find travel info. I made an enquiry to AG and the next day Stefan phoned me in Australia from South Africa. He understood exactly what I wanted and soon sent a proposed itinerary with no ties attached. Stef handled everything down to the smallest detail.

When I ran into difficulty boarding my flight to Congo, Stef had no hesitation in assisting me, even though I had organised my own flights…. He stayed with me through the stressful process until I was cleared to board… and once in Brazzaville, I was taken care of right there in the airport… and it was plain sailing from there.

My trip was beyond belief. All the camps I went to were so nice. Imbalanga was amazing for the forest treks and the baï that is only a three-minute walk from the camp…. I was lucky enough to see two different groups of gorillas and a troop of colobus monkeys. I went there a couple of times a day…. When the primates were there, they were there for hours….

I then went to the Kamba camps…. I went on two gorilla treks: both very different experiences. The first was adrenaline-charged as there was a rogue silverback hanging around the group, causing some drama. The second was a lot more chilled but very, very cute. Lots of young ones and one particularly cheeky blackback. My guides, Dylan and Ben, were amazing and knowledgeable. They did everything within their power to make sure I saw the wildlife without disturbing them. I saw more forest elephant than I ever imagined. I even saw some rare creatures, be it ever so fleeting, including chimpanzee, bongo, and sitatunga antelope…. It was just amazing to be in the forest or on the river. I have done quite a bit of travelling, but this was the best trip ever. Being in the forest is magical…. I have been asked where I want to go next but the truth is, I just want to go back. No disappointments – not one.”

Read Louise’s full review here.

Connect with us today, and let AG start planning your dream safari.

WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:

Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots & green pigeons – and much more. Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville is covered in forests, rivers, marshes, and swamps, and is an integral part of the Congo Basin. The most distinctive characteristic of the Congo rainforest is the forest baïs – island clearings in the sea of trees. Here, marshy areas rich in minerals and salts attract a plethora of wildlife. Odzala-Kokoua is one of Africa’s oldest national parks and the ideal destination for lowland gorilla watching. (05:27) Click here to watch
For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

*Cover photo: Spotting western lowland gorillas in the forest baïs of Odzala-Kokoua National Park. Congo-Brazzaville. © Jonas Eriksson | African Parks

Kunene’s hope for renewal

After years of crippling drought, Namibia’s Kunene Region is stirring back to life. Desert-adapted wildlife is returning and local conservationists are working to secure a brighter future for people and nature alike. Gail Thomson returns to the region and is heartened by what she finds: desert wildlife rebounding, communities rebuilding, and recovery in this stark but spectacular region.

Namibia’s Kunene Region is home to famously desert-adapted wildlife that lives alongside the Ovahimba, Ovaherero and Damara people. This area is almost entirely covered by communal conservancies, many of which have been operating for over 20 years. The last ten years have been a challenging time for the people and wildlife sharing this landscape due to widespread drought.

During a trip in early March this year, my husband and I witnessed the effects of this multi-year drought, as the rocky desert landscape looked harsh and barren. This all changed with good rains in April and May 2025 – the best the Kunene has received in many years. We decided to organise another trip in July to see how the rains had transformed the landscape, and to find out how the wildlife and people in communal conservancies are faring.

What we found were signs of a new dawn for the region. Wildlife is starting to repopulate the area, while dedicated community conservationists are finding ways to support their recovery.

Finding life in the desert

The key to understanding the Kunene is an expert guide. While anyone with a 4×4 vehicle can explore the Kunene Region on their own, few will see beyond the landscape to understand wildlife movements and human behaviour in response to the recent rains. We therefore met up with Boas Hambo, a local expert in the Kunene Region, to gain deeper insights.

Boas is part of a new generation of African conservationists who are bringing African perspectives and ideas to a field that non-Africans have historically dominated.

We approached the semi-arid Kunene Region from the west, via the stark true desert of the Skeleton Coast. While these gravel plains host many forms of life, not much of it can be seen while driving. Only after travelling inland for nearly 50km did we start encountering patches of yellow that could conceivably be grass. As we drove, the tiny tufts gave way to fully grown grass plants that had turned from green early in the wet season to their yellow winter form.

The grass was a welcome sight, clothing the red rocks in a gossamer cloak that thickened to a fluffy carpet in areas that received excellent rainfall. Such abundant grass is beautiful, yet it shows that there are few grazing animals left to eat it. Many cattle have died in recent years, leaving livestock-dependent communities destitute and hungry. “Milk is an extremely important part of the diet out here,” says Boas. “When we run out of maize meal, we survive on cups of milk from our cattle and goats.” But milk becomes scarce when the cattle are all dead, and goats and sheep are barely clinging to life.

Namibia safari — Communities are heavily dependent on livestock – and drought threatens their survival

Unsurprisingly, wildlife numbers have been dropping each year during the drought and are now very low, according to annual game count figures. These game-count trends reflect both real population decreases and movement. “Each animal has a different way of dealing with the drought – for example, the Hartmann’s mountain zebras move into the inaccessible mountainous areas during drought in search of natural springs and grazing that is not accessible to cattle,” Boas tells us.

He also suggests that now that the drought has broken, the gemsbok will spend more time in the true desert to the west, where there is still grass and plenty of gemsbok melons – fleshy desert fruits that gemsbok love. Since the game counts take place by road and do not cover the coastal desert or the inaccessible mountains, it is difficult to say precisely how many gemsbok and zebras have died in the drought versus how many have moved.

What we do know, courtesy of a giraffe-specific monitoring programme by Giraffe Conservation Foundation, is that giraffe numbers have remained stable during the drought years. As specialist browsers, the giraffes do not need grass, although they will benefit from fresh leaves after the rains. On our trip, we saw baby giraffes in nearly every herd we encountered, indicating that their population should grow. Surprisingly, giraffes do not need to drink water – although they drink readily when water is available, they can obtain all the moisture they need from leaves alone.

And Boas is optimistic: “I saw many more animals during the conservancy game count this year than in previous years, although the official statistics for the whole count aren’t out yet.”

Want to visit Namibia on safari? Browse our top Namibia safaris. Or, check out our safaris to other destinations.

Getting to know Boas, our Kunene guide

During our many hours on the road exploring, we got to know Boas’s backstory. Like many young Herero and Himba boys growing up in the 80s, Boas was sent to look after goats at an age when most urban children start attending primary school. Although he started school later than most, he seized his opportunity for education with both hands. As a teenager, he took a job with Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC).

Boas flourished with IRDNC and was promoted from general camp-hand to trainer of community game guards. After that, he worked with the Community Rhino Rangers Programme to counter the threat of black-rhino poaching in the communal conservancies. He now works for Conservancy Safaris Namibia, leading multi-day expeditions that explore the Kunene Region. As a result of his work, he has spent many hours on the road with numerous conservation stalwarts, including Garth Owen-Smith, Dr Margaret Jacobsohn and Russell Vinjevold – mentors who provided different perspectives and experiences on conservation and tourism.

Boas Hambo African safari — Boas in a quiet moment along the river

During his varied career, Boas has followed desert-adapted lions for weeks on end, patrolled thousands of square kilometres to monitor and protect black rhinos, assisted conservancies to develop and implement natural-resource management plans, and introduced international guests to the vast wilderness he calls home. He has not forgotten his farming roots, however, and still keeps livestock near his home in Warmquelle, Kunene.

In short, there are few people alive today who possess such a deep understanding of local culture and farming practices, animal behaviour, practical nature conservation and the role of tourism in the Kunene Region. His perspective on the wildlife we saw and the conservation concepts we discussed enriched our journey and added meaning to our observations.

Elephants and lions in the famous Hoanib River

Unlike giraffes, elephants are heavily dependent on water and therefore greatly affected by the drought. In Kunene, the herds have been increasingly restricted to the dry riverbeds, where natural springs and artificial waterpoints quench their thirst. The giant Ana trees provide nutrient-rich pods, while riverine vegetation survives the drought better than outside the riverbed.

The restrictions that drought places on elephant movement and nutrition nonetheless take a toll. Elephant calves suffer the most during drought. Half of the calves in this far western population died within their first year during 2023, according to a report from Desert Elephant Conservation. Female elephants that are barely meeting their nutritional requirements will not readily come into oestrous, and those that do have calves may not produce enough milk to sustain them.

On our trip down the Hoanib River, a stronghold for desert-adapted elephants, we saw some of the new babies of the season. “I counted 14 baby elephants in the Hoanib earlier this year,” says Boas, “it seems that we are now in a ‘baby boom ’ and I hope that this population will continue to grow.” These elephants are a key tourist attraction for the few lodges in the Hoanib Valley.

That night, we camped outside the riverbed at one of the bush camping sites. This site is far enough away from the river to be safely out of the way of the wildlife – including hungry lions. During a drought, lions can benefit from staying in riverbeds and near waterpoints, knowing that their prey will have to come to them. When the drought breaks, however, lions find themselves in a precarious position. The prey species spread out to take advantage of the widespread grazing and natural water sources. When the overall population is as low as it is now, hunting becomes very difficult.

The lions have adapted to this situation in several ways, some of which are fascinating for research, while others are concerning from a human-lion conflict point of view. In the Hoanib River, the lions started specialising in giraffe hunting, which became the most common prey animal available. On our trip, we found the male lion known as “OB” feeding on a giraffe that he had killed the night before.

We heard this good news long before we found the lion, since we encountered Allu Jauire Uararaui – a human-wildlife conflict specialist for Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation under Russell Vinjevold – soon after entering the river valley. Boas and Allu are old colleagues, and Allu readily agreed to us following him to the lion and its kill. They have been watching this lion’s movements via its satellite collar for months, and were mainly concerned when it left the Hoanib and started roaming near human settlements. “This male lion is significant, since he is the only adult male left in this area”, explains Allu, “so I came out here to check that he was back in the riverbed and not out in the village lands.”

Managing these lions is a delicate balancing act, one which Boas and Allu know all about. Boas had followed the female lion known as “Charly” for a whole month while assisting a Japanese film crew. Tragically, she killed well-known Namibian businessman, Bernd Kebbel (who generously supported the conservation of desert lions), when he exited his tent during a night in the Hoanib River a few weeks before our visit. The authorities promptly euthanised the lion due to the danger she presented to both tourists and locals.

Besides the male lion we encountered and Charly, the other desert-adapted lions in the western Kunene have moved to the coast, where they hunt Cape fur seals and other marine life. Dr Philip “Flip” Stander documented the return of lions to the coast and currently focuses his research on how they are adapting to their new diet and surroundings. OB, the lion we saw, is now the pride male in the area, and he joins the lionesses regularly to mate. The current pair of cubs on the coastline is his.

“The lodges and tour operators want to see more lions, which is understandable,” Boas remarked, “yet there is not enough prey yet to support the lions – we need to focus on rebuilding the prey base, while still trying to keep the few remaining lions out of harm’s way.” If prey numbers increase and stabilise, then lions could be reintroduced from populations in the eastern parts of the Kunene, after consultation with the relevant conservancies.

Supporting Kunene conservancies at a critical time

After leaving our bush camp near the Hoanib, we headed north through Puros village, across the Hoarusib River and into Orupembe Conservancy – our destination: Etaambura Lodge – one of my favourite places to stay in Namibia. Etaambura is managed by Conservancy Safaris, and both are owned by five conservancies including Orupembe: Puros, Sanitatas, Okonjombo and Marienfluss.

Conservancy Safaris and Etaambura were founded by Garth Owen-Smith and Dr Margaret Jacobsohn (co-founders of IRDNC), together with friends who accompanied them on multi-day journeys through the region. Their primary purpose was to provide support for the conservancies. Their current community development and conservation efforts are supported through Jamma Communities & Conservation. Their community initiatives included the building of a school, and the ongoing school feeding programme for the village near Etaambura. The lodge also provides cash benefits to the community during the worst part of the drought.

Boas’ primary mission on this trip was to initiate the new project called “Okamutenge”, the Otjiherero word for the small bag tied to the end of the stick that Ovahimba people carry when going on a journey. The Okamutenge Community Conservation Support project will assist the community game guards in doing regular anti-poaching patrols and community outreach visits.

“Now that the drought has broken, the conservancies can start rebuilding their wildlife populations – if they can ensure that poaching is kept to a minimum,” explains Boas. “Since the people living here have lost most of their livestock, the temptation to poach for meat is higher than ever.”

From the early days of the conservancy programme until today, the goal has been to stop poaching rather than catch poachers. This requires developing close relationships with the communities, creating awareness about the value of wildlife through tourism and hunting, and arresting perpetrators when necessary. Community game guards can do this work most effectively, since they know their area and are trusted by their people.

We accompanied Boas and Henry Tjambiru, the assistant lodge manager at Etaambura, to the Orupembe Conservancy office to meet with their game guards. Boas brought with him eight new pairs of boots and enough food for a 10-day foot patrol, marking the start of the Okamutenge project. He would deliver similar supplies to the Sanitatas Conservancy once we had left. If they secure more funding, their support will extend to Puros, Okonjombo and Marienfluss Conservancies.

During the meeting, he explained that Henry would provide transport into the area to be patrolled (either in Orupembe or Sanitatas), and the game guards would do the patrols and provide feedback. Boas would provide them with additional training before the first patrol to ensure they covered the ground efficiently and responded appropriately to suspected poaching incidents. The game guards were extremely grateful for the support, as their conservancy’s vehicle had broken down beyond repair; they had no other way of patrolling the far reaches of their large conservancy.

Hope for the future of Kunene

During our six-day trip into the Kunene, we drove through all of these conservancies and others around them. We saw giraffe and springbok herds throughout the landscape, and the elephants and OB the lion on the Hoanib River. We also encountered a gemsbok, zebra and ostriches (including one flock of young ones accompanied by three adults). Boas spotted a black rhino just before we joined him, even though we did not actively track rhinos.

A trip like this does not constitute a game count, but it is an indication of what tourists are likely to see on a Kunene Region expedition. “If we get another year or two of good or even average rains, we could recover our wildlife to near pre-drought levels,” says Boas. “We will need to look at strategically translocating some species into areas where they are currently depleted, but the most important thing we can do right now is to support the game guards and their conservancies.”

The wildlife in Kunene can rebound, provided that the conservancies keep functioning and everyone working in the region pulls in the same direction. Tourists visiting Kunene discover how communities are conserving this harsh, yet spectacular part of the planet – and in doing so are supporting their important work.

Further reading

Namibia is a spectacular wilderness destination. Read more here
Read more about Namibia’s desert lions
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here
Capture the most photogenic landscapes of Namibia – from Sossusvlei to Fish River Canyon – with this essential guide for nature photographers

About Gail Thomson

Gail is a conservation scientist who focuses on carnivore conservation and human-wildlife conflict.

She has a passion for creating public awareness of conservation through her popular writings. She has many years of field experience in Namibia , Botswana and South Africa working on human-carnivore conflict and wildlife monitoring projects.

* With thanks to Conservancy Safaris Namibia and Jamma Communities & Conservation for supporting this trip.

New study outlines risks of South Africa’s commercial lion farming industry

South Africa’s commercial captive lion breeding industry, a sector that has grown to encompass roughly 350 facilities holding nearly 8,000 lions, has long been a subject of debate. While proponents have claimed a role in conservation, new research presents a sobering challenge to this narrative, questioning whether the industry is in fact harming wild lion populations

Over the past three decades, a contentious industry has quietly been established in South Africa, steadily growing louder and more robust as it gained popularity. In the face of threats to wild lion populations, captive-lion breeding claimed to contribute to conservation.

Many claim captive lion breeding can reduce the pressure on wild lion populations by supplementing commercial demand for lions, their parts and derivatives. But there is also an alternative effect: captive-lion breeding can increase the demand for lions and their body parts, which essentially threatens wild populations.

A group of researchers from Blood Lions and World Animal Protection is attempting to put the debate to rest. Their latest research, including a systematic review titled Reviewing evidence for the impact of lion farming in South Africa on African wild lion populations, published in the journal Animals, highlights the urgent need for a shift in policy.

The comprehensive study entailed the review of 126 peer-reviewed articles and 37 public reports published between 2008 and 2023, in efforts to assess whether commercial captive lion breeding helps reduce pressure on wild lion populations.

The scale of the industry

South Africa’s commercial lion breeding industry has seen rapid growth since the 1990s, expanding to an estimated 7,838 captive lions, along with thousands of other big cats, across 342 commercial facilities for tourism, hunting and trade. To put this into perspective, in 2021, Four Paws estimated that the number of farmed lions in South Africa was four to five times larger than that of wild lions.

The captive lion industry primarily thrives on tourist entertainment like cub petting and walking with lions, as well as the commercial trade of lion body parts and derivatives.

Investigating captive lion conservation claims

The central question investigated by the researchers was whether this commercial captive lion breeding provides a sustainable solution to reduce pressure on wild lion populations. Their comprehensive review yielded a concerning conclusion: there is currently no scientific evidence to substantiate the industry’s claims that commercial captive lion breeding protects wild lion populations.

On the contrary, the findings suggest that it may be driving demand for lion parts with potentially damaging consequences for the species in the wild. Dr. Angie Elwin, a contributing researcher and Head of Research at World Animal Protection, says, “Our review finds no clear evidence that South Africa’s captive lion breeding industry benefits wild lion populations.” Elwin continues, “…it could be doing harm by fuelling demand for lion parts. Given the precarious status of lions globally, any claims of conservation value should be treated with extreme caution. Lessons from tiger farming show that legal trade from captive animals has failed to protect wild populations and may even accelerate their decline. We risk repeating the same mistake with lions.”

The evidence against captive lion breeding

The study evaluated the evidence against five key criteria to determine the potential benefits and threats of lion farming in a conservation context. Here’s what they found:

Cost-efficiency: Although captive hunts are generally cheaper than wild hunts, direct comparisons of overall profitability between wild and captive-sourced lion products are scarce. However, captive facilities boost profitability through diverse income streams, including selective breeding for rare traits like white lions and hosting paying international volunteers.
Genetic maintenance of captive populations: A significant knowledge gap exists regarding the genetic health and diversity of captive lion populations, primarily due to a lack of official records and comprehensive genetic analysis. While there’s limited evidence of wild lions being taken to stock captive facilities, the absence of a reliably maintained studbook system raises concerns.
Protection from criminal activity: The study revealed inadequate protection for wild populations from criminal activity linked to lion farm facilities. Evidence, though sporadic and often anecdotal, points to potential laundering of wild-sourced lion parts through captive facilities and a patchwork of inconsistent legislation across authorities. The direct link between lion farming and the poaching of wild lions remains largely unquantified.
Consumer preferences: While some captive-bred lion products, like those for trophy hunting, might be preferred for specific traits or guaranteed kills, the research indicates mixed preferences, with no clear evidence that farmed lion parts consistently substitute for wild ones. For traditional medicine, consumers often don’t distinguish between wild and captive sources, and lion bones are even passed off as tiger bones.
Market demand: The review suggests that rather than simply meeting existing demand, commercial captive breeding may actually be stimulating new demand. This includes the emergence of new markets, such as interactive tourism experiences (like cub petting) that create additional demand for breeding lions for revenue. Rising wholesale values for lion skeletons also point to increasing demand. The review notes that lion skeletons have historically been exported to East and Southeast Asia for traditional medicine markets; although the legal skeleton trade is currently halted following a 2019 court judgment, other legal and illegal channels persist, including trophies and live exports.

Current state of affairs

Importantly, the researchers note that South Africa’s wild lion populations are considered stable, due to intensive management on large protected areas and many smaller reserves. But continent-wide, lions remain Vulnerable and declining, with targeted poaching for body parts rising as an emerging threat.

One of the most damning results from the study was that researchers found insufficient data to effectively evaluate any purported conservation benefits of captive lion breeding. Instead, their analysis identified several “red flags” suggesting that lion farming could accelerate and facilitate commercial demand for lions and their body parts, potentially jeopardising wild populations. This contrasts with the 2018 assessment by the Scientific Authority of South Africa, which previously concluded that the export of captive-bred lion products did not negatively impact wild lion populations.

In July this year, Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Dr Dion George, announced the imminent publiction of the Lion Prohibition Notice, which will prohibit the establishment of new captive lion facilities for commercial purposes. However, there is still a long way to go before a full prohibition of the commercial breeding and keeping of captive lions.

The driving force: Demand for lion parts

The review highlighted that while trophy hunting of captive lions has seen a decrease following events like the US boycott after Cecil the lion’s shooting, a parallel surge in demand for lion bones from Southeast Asia has taken its place. These bones are often passed off as tiger bones for use in traditional Chinese medicine products like tiger cake, tiger wine, and other “tiger” derivatives. The staggering profit margins, with a 60-fold increase between the South African skeleton sale value and the end consumer price, incentivise this trade.

The research identified several “red flags”, suggesting that captive lion breeding may:

Accelerate and facilitate commercial demand for lions and their body parts;
Increase opportunities for laundering poached wildlife through legal commercial trade; and
Operate within a patchwork of contrasting legislation across various authorities, creating legal loopholes and making fraud difficult to monitor

Beyond conservation: Animal welfare and public health risks in the captive lion industry

The concerns extend far beyond the conservation impact on wild lions. The High-Level Panel report, released as a part of the Draft policy position on the conservation and ecologically sustainable use of elephant, lion, leopard and rhinoceros in 2021, led to the government’s decision to ultimately close the industry. These findings outlined that the captive lion breeding industry:

Damages South Africa’s eco-tourism and conservation reputations;
Lacks necessary transformation;
Is widely accused of animal welfare neglect and abuse; and
Poses public health concerns, including the risk of diseases like tuberculosis being transported through wildlife products.

A call for urgent action

The research underscores the urgent need for a shift in policy. The researchers and contributing organisations are calling on the South African government to take critical next steps based on these findings. Dr. Louise de Waal, Director of Blood Lions, emphasises the need for global caution: “We need to err on the side of caution globally, but in particular in lion range states, to refrain from facilitating further emergence of commercial captive predator breeding and trade.”

She highlights that this is especially relevant given the increased wildlife trafficking opportunities between Africa and Southeast Asia, partly fuelled by the expansion of initiatives like the Belt and Road Initiative (a global infrastructure development strategy adopted by the government of China in 2013).

The new research adds significant weight to these arguments, urging the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment to take critical next steps: to impose an immediate moratorium on the breeding of lions in captivity and to develop a structured and time-bound phase-out plan for the broader commercial predator industry.

While wild lion populations in South Africa are currently considered unchanging, these research findings highlight the significant and potentially detrimental compounding effects on already vulnerable lion populations and other large felid species across their ranges. The industry’s lack of transparency, coupled with identified knowledge gaps in consumer preferences, supply-demand dynamics, economic comparisons, genetics, and the extent of illegal activities, further strengthens the call for a definitive end to commercial captive lion breeding.

Reference

Green, J., Elwin, A., Jakins, C., Klarmann, S.-E., de Waal, L., Pinkess, M., & D’Cruze, N. (2025). Reviewing Evidence for the Impact of Lion Farming in South Africa on African Wild Lion Populations. Animals, 15(15), 2316. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani15152316

Further reading

A new survey sheds light on the state of the lion population in the north of Kruger, revealing trends that could shape future conservation efforts. Read more about Kruger’s lion population here
Africa’s lions are disappearing. New research shows that lion populations across the continent have declined by 75% in just five decades
For the best chance of seeing lions in the wild, head to one of Africa’s top lion hotspots – as recommended by AG safari experts
Does lion pride behaviour change between fenced & open systems? Researchers monitoring lions in Kruger, Pilanesberg & more aim to find out

THIS WEEK

Rare fish + wild dog drama + epic water safari

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From our CEO – Simon Espley

What started as a stressful discovery evolved into one of my best wild dog sightings ever.

Recently, I was in Botswana’s Okavango Delta with one of our Botswana safari experts, scouting for lodges that meet our expectations of outstanding, responsible safari experiences. On the game-drive transfer from the airstrip to our remote bushcamp, we stopped at an active wild dog den, to find, to our horror, that it had recently been under siege by lions trying to kill the pups. The den entrance was caved in, leaving a tiny gap, and the claw marks above the entrance bore testament to the lions’ huge efforts to get to the pups. That must have been terrifying for those pups!

We sat for a while and tried to figure out what had happened to the pups and adults. During our contemplations, we heard faint, plaintive whining from deep inside the burrow – evidence that at least one of the pups was still alive. But where were the adults? Had the alpha female been killed defending her pups, and where were the lions? So many questions. Not wanting to influence what was an ongoing natural event, we left the scene as the daylight faded and headed to our bushcamp to wait out the night before returning in the morning. It was a long night.

Soon after first light, after a scrumptious but hurried breakfast, we returned to the den to find that the entrance had been opened up, and a confusion of tiny footprints suggested that at least some of the pups had survived and been moved by the adults. These were tiny pups, still suckling, so they could not have gone far. And the threat of lions, leopards and hyenas was always there, as evidenced by the number of times we encountered them over the next few days as our guides, Dix and Chocolate, pieced together the puzzle.

They are local bushmen, born and brought up here, and they learned and honed their skills as subsistence hunters. Their tracking skills are off the charts, and their granular knowledge of the area is extraordinary. We followed many lines of spoor, investigated what we thought were ideal den locations and reacted to countless bush signals alerting us to nearby predators.

I can’t begin to describe the relief and euphoria when, after hearing a wild dog contact call, we also heard the squeals of tiny pups. We followed those clues to find the new den, secreted away in a termite mound hidden by tall grass. What followed was many hours immersed in wonderment and awe, observing these incredible predators care for their 12 precious bundles of joy.

We watched the alpha female feeding her ravenous brood, adults disciplining wandering pups, den excavations with sand flying everywhere, pack member greeting ceremonies as they returned from their wanderings and even a successful impala hunt by some of the pack as others remained to guard the den. A highlight for me was confirmation that wild dogs do use sneezing as a voting mechanism to get the resting pack to wake up and go hunting. If you have doubts, watch my video below for proof.

The impala hunt was a typical wild dog strategic manoeuvre, spreading out in a long line and padding silently through the woodlands before splitting into groups to target specific opportunities. We followed one splinter group, losing them a few times in the woodlands, before Dix and Chocolate cracked the code and got us to the scene just seconds after four dogs took down an impala. As usual for these efficient hunters, within seconds of the distress bleat at the moment of attack, the impala had been eviscerated, and the dogs were gulping down choice bits. Gory for sure, but this is real, wild Africa doing her thing. Again, we benefitted from deep bush skills demonstrated by our guides.

I have spent countless hours in the company of painted wolves, and these few days rank as amongst my best encounters ever. I will return.

Our choice of lodgings on this occasion was an intimate (4 tents | 8 guests) bushcamp on the shore of a permanent channel in the Okavango Delta. This camp is old-school; meaning the focus is on authenticity and comfort rather than ostentatious designer decor, rim-flow pools and imported chefs. Of course, there is room for all comfort levels in this wonderful industry, but on this occasion, less is more.

Speaking of returning, how about joining us in 2026 to this part of the Okavango Delta for a deeply immersive safari to search for wild dogs, leopards, lions and much more? Please book early to avoid disappointment – start the discussion.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click to listen to this editorial online

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Some moments in nature feel like a wink from the universe – little reminders that we share this planet with remarkable, unpredictable wildlife. Over the past 20 years, wild orcas have been documented offering humans food. Fish, stingrays, seaweed, even seabirds: all presented, sometimes repeatedly, as if waiting for us to take the bait. Are they trying to make friends, start a cross-species cultural exchange, or gently manipulate us into… something? No one’s sure. But one thing is clear: these intelligent, social giants are as curious about us as we are about them.

This week, we’re diving into more wonders: South Africa’s rare Barrydale redfin and why it matters for the health of our rivers, plus nine extraordinary African safaris – with water at their centre – that prove rivers and lakes are as thrilling as any game drive.

Enjoy exploring Africa with us!

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

9 WATER SAFARIS
Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are her lifeblood. Here’s our list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent

FRESHWATER CANARIES
Rare South African fish like the Barrydale redfin warn of our rivers’ decline – saving them means saving our freshwater lifelines

Travel Desk

TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS

Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days – from US$10,670pps
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Best of Malawi’s safari parks – 10 days – from US$4,680pps
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. The three parks are managed by African Parks – a non-profit conservation organisation. These conservation success stories are what responsible travel is all about. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here.

Our safari guests say…

AG safari guests Jennifer and Tim from Switzerland went on a special mother-and-son safari to Zimbabwe and Botswana:

Unforgettable mother & son safari – How Africa Geographic & Stefan’s expert care guided us every step of the way:
“Our journey began long before we set foot in Africa – with a simple online enquiry through Africa Geographic. Within seconds, I was contacted by Karen, who warmly invited me to chat about our hopes, preferences, and expectations… The very next morning, I received an email from Stefan, who would become our dedicated travel consultant for what would turn out to be the trip of a lifetime.

From that first message onward, everything flowed seamlessly. Stefan was thorough, responsive, and incredibly attentive. He answered every single question I had, no matter how detailed or specific, and remained kind, patient, and professional, never rushing me or pushing for decisions. We worked closely to craft our ideal itinerary, and I never felt anything less than fully supported. Naturally, I was a bit nervous when it came time to make the first payment… But Stefan’s transparent communication and genuine care gave me confidence and peace of mind. Even after our booking was finalised, Stefan stayed in touch over the months leading up to the trip, checking in and helping us feel prepared. And once the journey began, he continued to communicate throughout our travels, making sure everything was unfolding as planned…

I wholeheartedly recommend Africa Geographic to anyone considering an African adventure – no matter where in the world you’re starting from…. This was more than a vacation, it was a transformative journey. And Stef, from the bottom of our hearts: thank you.”

Connect with us today, and let AG start planning your dream safari.

WATCH:

This short video offers a snapshot of Tsavo Trust’s work on the ground: protecting wildlife, supporting communities, and safeguarding Kenya’s iconic Tsavo ecosystem through aerial and ground operations, conservation partnerships, and sustainable development initiatives (06:11) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

*Cover photo: Double trouble. A pair of wild dogs on the prowl. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Fabian Michelangeli. Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant

Nine legendary safaris on Africa’s wild waters

Every river has a character, and every waterway symbolises vitality. Life in Africa revolves around its rivers, streams and lakes, defining the essence of the wildernesses they flow through. A safari can be more than game drives, so why not opt for one of the continent’s numerous safaris on and around her waters, and explore Africa through its lifeblood?

Below is a list of our favourite iconic waterways that make for epic safaris.

Check out our safari ideas for your next African safari. We have many African safaris and experiences to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Okavango Delta, Botswana: Water safaris by mokoro and boat

The swampy wildlife oasis of the Okavango Delta is one of the most extraordinary safari destinations in Africa, and a ride in a mokoro is an essential part of any exploration. These traditional dugout canoes cut silently through the wetlands’ many channels, propelled by expert guides’ poles. Aside from the peaceful immersion in one’s surroundings, this is the perfect way to encounter wildlife – from elephants to frogs and everything in between. In the deeper channels and lagoons, motorboat excursions open up even more of the delta, offering a different perspective and access to areas the mokoros cannot reach.

water safaris Okavango Delta — Glide by mokoro on the waters of the Okavango Delta

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Rafting on Batoka Gorge’s white waters

At Victoria Falls, the mighty Zambezi River plunges 100 metres off a basalt plateau before being forced through a narrow and twisting path of Batoka Gorge. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and are widely acknowledged as offering some of the best white water rafting in the world.

Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it). And after the rather steep climb out of the gorge on somewhat shaky legs, a sundowner imbibed looking out over the “smoke that thunders” is a must! This is one of the most epic water safaris you’ll ever experience.

Jinja, Uganda: Kayak the Nile

The Nile River is the longest in the world, and its journey begins at the edge of Lake Victoria as it spills out of the lake into a series of plunging rapids. Not much compares to the thrill of riding the tumbling waves, pitting skill against the tremendous power of the torrent. And there are plenty of long flat stretches of calm water to steady the nerves, recover the muscles and marvel at the beauty of rural Uganda.

If this sounds too much (or perhaps when one’s shoulders and arms have had enough), opt for an ice-cold drink on a sedate sunset boat cruise.

Adrenaline junkies can Kayak the River Nile at Jinja

Mambili and Lokoué Rivers, Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville: River cruise through the Congo Basin

In the heart of the Congo Basin, the Mambili and Lokoué rivers weave through Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s lush rainforest, offering a water safari unlike any other. A river cruise here means gliding past forested banks alive with movement – from the flicker of colourful birds to the stealthy ripple of a slender-snouted crocodile. Keep watch for breaching tiger fish, shy sitatunga antelope, water monitors, and troops of agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse the elusive De Brazza’s monkey or a forest elephant pausing for a drink. These tranquil waterways not only connect remote lodges like Camp Imbalanga but also provide one of the best vantage points for spotting the park’s rich wildlife without disturbing it.

Spotting a slender-snouted crocodile basking on a branch

Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia: Cruise on a riverboat

The Chobe River is Africa’s elephant Eden, its lush floodplains and surroundings home to the world’s highest density of these magnificent pachyderms. This corner of the continent is renowned for its water safaris. Explore the various channels and side creeks or meander peacefully, watching elephants snorkel and wrestle in the water. From predator to prey, the abundance of life on display along the riverbanks tinges any voyage with more than a hint of excitement.

water safaris - Chobe — Spot Chobe’s abundant wildlife from a riverboat

Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania: Float or dive lazy waters

Only two parks in Tanzania offer chimpanzee trekking: Gombe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, and both are found on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The terrain of these parks is mountainous, and if the chimps are particularly capricious, a trek might entail several hours of strenuous hiking. As such, there is no doubt that the only way to celebrate a successful day is to leap with joy into the cool embrace of the clear waters of the world’s longest freshwater lake. Sandy beaches are perfect for lazing the days away or soaking up romantic sunsets. Or, to make the most of water safaris to Lake Tanganyika (which hosts over 350 fish species), explore the waters by diving, snorkelling or kayaking.

Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Explore vast shorelines

The fertile shores of Lake Kariba and its fresh waters attract diverse birdlife and wildlife, including elephants, buffalo and various antelopes. Keep an eye out for lions and leopards too. Lake Kariba’s water safaris can be enjoyed in simple pleasure or luxurious style. Dozens of lodges perched on the water’s edge allow you to awaken to the copper glow of the sun rising over the endless lake. Spend the day admiring the scenery or watching elephants browse the shoreline of Lake Kariba. And at the end of the day, the calm waters are the ideal place to admire the starlit skies. There are plenty of opportunities to explore the shorelines from the water, whether on a catamaran cruise, motorboat or even a houseboat. For a wilderness retreat on the shores of Lake Kariba, visit Matusadona National Park, which is easily combined with safaris to Hwange National Park for a truly epic African safari.

Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba, Matusadona National Park

Cruise Lake Kariba’s shorelines on a catamaran cruise or motorboat

Lake Malawi, Malawi: Barefoot safaris

Lake Malawi offers a plethora of fun for every intrepid safari goer, from the super active to the deeply relaxed. Across the shoreline of Lake Malawi, tiny beach villages and lodges offer many opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples. Boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. And for beach lovers, there is ample opportunity to lounge along Lake Malawi’s sandy shores and breathe in the crystalline waters, drink in hand.

Lake Ihema, Akagera NP, Rwanda: Birding and big game safaris from the water

Bordered by papyrus swamps and dotted with islands, Lake Ihema – Rwanda’s second-largest lake – is a sanctuary for aquatic birds and a prime spot for relaxed game viewing. Boat cruises here are unhurried affairs on this vast lake in Akagera National Park, which features the Big 5. Drift past pods of hippos, enormous Nile crocodiles, and buffaloes grazing at the shoreline. The air rings with the calls of fish eagles, kingfishers, and hamerkops, and the keen-eyed may spot jacanas tiptoeing across lily pads or even a rare shoebill in the reeds. Morning, afternoon, and sunset departures each offer their own magic – from soft dawn light catching a heron’s wings to fiery skies reflected in still waters. It’s the perfect complement to a northern Akagera game drive, rounding out your wildlife checklist with sightings only possible from the lake’s calm surface.

Further reading

The ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here are our choices of 15 top wildlife experiences on the continent
Don’t miss our guide to the six best locally brewed beers from top-class breweries to enjoy on your African safari. Check it out here
Between meals, cocktails, spa treatments and pool dips, when should you head into the wild? We recommend our favourite safari time

Freshwater fish – the canaries of our rivers

From the Tradouw Redfin in Barrydale’s Huis River to the Clanwilliam Sandfish in the Olifants catchment, South Africa’s endemic freshwater fish are sounding an alarm. Their precarious survival is a measure of the health of our rivers – systems under pressure from invasive species, altered flows, and degraded habitats. Protecting these fish means protecting the lifeblood of the landscapes and communities that depend on them. Christy Bragg delves into the plight of South Africa’s freshwater fish

A flash of silver. A glimpse of a sliver of silver tail, and then it’s gone, back into the depths of the tannin-rich waters. The sight disarmed me – this was a very rare freshwater fish species – the Barrydale redfin (Pseudobarbus sp. ‘burchelli Tradouw’), also known as Breede redfin or Tradouw redfin. I was watching them slip between the foamy bubbles caused by the outpouring of a pipe set into the weir in the river. What is so special about a pipe in the weir? This little pipe is a clever solution to an age-old dilemma in water resource management: how do we share the water?

This tiny little fish, with red tips on its fins, is an endemic species. It only occurs in South Africa, and then only in the Breede River system. What’s more, this particular lineage is limited to little tributaries, most notably in isolated pools of the Huis River above Barrydale within the Tradouw catchment.

And in this space, the tiny fish occupies less than 40km² of habitat, making it highly vulnerable to environmental change. Its remaining waters are increasingly threatened by reduced flow from municipal abstraction, habitat degradation through bank alteration and vegetation loss, pollution, and the spread of invasive alien plants and fish. These pressures not only disrupt the natural seasonal flow patterns essential for the species’ breeding and feeding, but also degrade water quality and reduce refuges during dry periods. It is no wonder then that the Barrydale redfin is classified as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List.

Once, miners relied on the faintest signs of distress from canaries deep underground to warn of danger. Today, the Barrydale redfin plays a similar role in our freshwater systems – its struggle is a subtle but urgent signal of the troubles gathering in our rivers.

South Africas rivers are slowly filling up with pollution, from sewage to partially metabolised medications and hormones. Some of our rivers are drying up – becoming trickles of mud and alien weeds. Where rivers once carried the rhythms of native fish and invertebrates, invasive species have since unsettled and diminished their diversity. Our climates are getting hotter, and many rivers are drying more rapidly than the norm. But, the last scrappy shoals of indigenous fish are the signposts to our future. When our river ecosystems are damaged, the fish tell the tale.

What happens when the water stops flowing in our rivers? Water in rivers is like blood in veins – without blood, we shrivel up like a dried raisin, and we lose access to oxygen and nutrients. We need to keep a small amount of water flowing in the rivers to keep the ecosystem processes going – essential processes like flood retention, infiltration, dilution of hazardous substances, and resilience to droughts. Scientists refer to this minimum amount of water needed for habitat and human health as the ‘ecological reserve’. We also need this small amount of water in the rivers for the survival of rare and unique freshwater fish species.

The fish are flagships for the health of our rivers. The bad news is that indigenous freshwater fish are hanging onto existence by the tips of their fins.

Turning the tide for the Barrydale redfin

The journey to help the Barrydale redfin began with people who love fish – including from CapeNature, Endangered Wildlife Trust and the Freshwater Research Centre. This group of fish enthusiasts had been counting the redfin for years and had been worrying about how rapidly the population was declining.

Along with local communities and other conservation agencies interested in conserving these fish, the enthusiasts secured funding from donors, and took action to save the redfins living in the rivers of Barrydale in the Western Cape, South Africa. Thanks to the willingness of local authorities, communities, and the efforts of civil society organisations, farmers, engineers, and town residents, the project is tackling the redfin’s conservation on several fronts, combining ecological restoration with community-led water stewardship.

One issue was that 100% of the low flows in the Huis River running through Barrydale were being abstracted. After everyone had sucked up their portions of the water, there was very little water left. At least 10% flow would need to be re-allocated to the downstream ecosystem in order to restore redfin habitat. And so, one of the most innovative solutions to saving the fish came in the form of a little pipe: with project support, the municipality retrofitted a release valve on the weir, diverting water back to the river. This adjustable pipe allows a small flow into the river, just enough to keep pools in the river for redfin habitat.

If we are willing to share water with biodiversity, we all win. Protecting the fish means we need to manage our resources with wisdom and awareness, which leads to all-around sustainability.

Freshwater fish conservation: A model for healthy rivers

The Barrydale redfin project then spawned other projects that encourage treating our rivers with respect and gratitude. If you visit the Huis River today, you will notice the banks have been freshly planted with riverine plants, and you will hear the chainsaws cutting down alien invasive plants to keep the river healthy and flowing. There are monitoring gauges in the river to keep track of flow, and there are brave ideas about creating synergy between fish, water and people.

sandfish and redfin conservation — Translocating small Clanwilliam sandfish to allow them a chance to grow

Similarly, if you visit the beautiful Biedouw River Valley in the Olifants-Doring River catchment, you might come across a group of people holding big nets in the river. They are carefully catching baby Clanwilliam sandfish (Labeo seeberi). The sandfish is a beautiful fish with little whiskers and translucent golden scales. It used to be so abundant that locals reported whole rivers churned up and teeming with these fish during their spawning migrations. Not anymore.

The Clanwilliam sandfish faces unimaginable threats. Dams block their migratory paths and alien invasive fish prey on the sandfish fry (the baby sandfish). Dirty water released into the river pollutes its habitat, whilst at the same time, thirsty crops gulp down its water.

To aid in the conservation of the sandfish, fish conservationists, through the Saving Sandfish project, are catching small fish to relocate them to a safer area, where they can grow larger without being preyed upon by the largemouth bass that inhabit the rivers. When the fish have grown big enough, the conservationists release them back into their rivers to run the gauntlet of the alien invasive fish. It’s a small solution, but small ripples can spread far and wide. So far, the conservationists have released over 2,800 sandfish back into the rivers. These fish are being tracked and monitored, and the research shows that they are surviving and returning to the Biedouw to keep the circle of life going.

sandfish and redfin — Clanwilliam sandfish

Expanding conservation beyond the redfin

In several countries, rivers have been recognised in law as having rights to their waters. Environmental advocates have successfully argued for legal personhood, enabling these rivers to be treated as living entities with the right to thrive and to have a voice in decisions that affect them. Yet, the health of these ecosystems is in serious decline. The IUCN estimates that a quarter of all freshwater species are now threatened with extinction, while a 2024 WWF report found that migratory fish populations have declined by an average of 81% since 1970.

Freshwater is an essential resource – vital to human societies and the species that depend on it. The warning signs from our rivers and wetlands are clear; safeguarding aquatic biodiversity is not optional but imperative.

Like canaries in a coal mine, the struggles of aquatic species signal deeper trouble in our freshwater systems – trouble that will touch us all if left unchecked.

For more information, have a look at some of the organisations involved with fish conservation, and in particular the Barrydale redfin and Clanwilliam sandfish: CapeNature, Freshwater Research Centre, Grootvadersbosch Conservancy, the Endangered Wildlife Trust, and the Fynbos Fish Trust.

References

Sayer, C.A., Fernando, E., Jimenez, R.R. et al. One-quarter of freshwater fauna threatened with extinction. Nature 638, 138–145 (2025).

Further reading

Swimming blind – why critically endangered blind cave catfish needs research: The blind cave catfish, only found in a cave in Namibia, lives in total darkness. It is one of the rarest freshwater fish species in the world

Fight for the fynbos fish: Learn about the redfin minnow, the most widespread group of freshwater fishes in the Cape Floristic Region, and find out why these fish face a serious risk of extinction.

THIS WEEK

Lion hunt backlash + 11 walking safaris + track lowland gorillas

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From our CEO – Simon Espley

It’s been a harrowing week for my team.

Our reward for publishing facts about the trophy hunting of Blondie the Hwange lion has been a spate of malicious attacks, gaslighting and threats. These ugly missiles came from both extreme ends of the hate spectrum – pro- and anti-hunting – and often from private or fake social media accounts. All because we broke the news of Blondie’s death. We have been publishing factual articles since 1991, so we are used to the chaos when science clashes with beliefs. And yet this time, the volume and ugliness were staggering, even if from a tiny minority. On the bright side (there is always a bright side), we have exorcised our followers of these lowlifes. Believe what you want, but be nice. When in doubt, read our Rules of Engagement.

Our breaking news article was picked up by multiple international news media platforms, talking heads and tabloids, resulting in a snowball effect and amplified awareness. Unfortunately, some of these platforms resorted to factually bereft headlines and claims to gain attention. It is what it is.

Two things stood out to me during this process:

Anti-hunters accused us of giving tracking data from Blondie’s collar to hunters. Blondie was wearing a tracking collar sponsored by us. Blondie used to roam outside of the national park, and so was tracked by WildCRU (the Oxford University research team) to prevent human-wildlife conflict. To be clear, we do not have access to live data (and do not want it). We have received limited belated updates on the lions wearing AG-sponsored collars. And when probed for more detail on the trophy hunting of Blondie before we went live with the news, WildCRU met our requests with a deafening silence.
Pro-hunters accused us of claiming that the hunt was illegal, and compiled gaslighting opinion editorials based on that lie. Our actual wording was “sources say the hunt took place legally“ and nowhere in the article did we suggest otherwise. But of course, facts never get in the way of a diversionary tactic; a typical trophy hunting strategy when the spotlight shines on poor behaviour. To be clear, Blondie’s hunt was legal but deeply unethical; he was collared and was a young male with cubs. Zimbabwe’s adaptive, age-based hunting guideline recommends the hunting of lions over 6 years old, but a murky points and quota system means the hunting of lions under age 6 still takes place.

Why do we do this? Because we care. And we like to believe that you do too. And because, if we do not establish the facts and keep you informed, who will? Many of our tourism and conservation industry colleagues avoid difficult discussions like this. Thanks to the minority who do take the risk of nailing their colours to the mast – sincerely appreciated.

Most importantly, I am in awe of my team. Their hard work, passion and courage stand out in a sea of conservation mediocrity like dog’s balls on a canary.

Speaking of science and considered opinions, the Op Ed below by respected biologist and lion researcher Paul Funston will ruffle a few feathers. Well done, Paul, on daring to go against the flow with some inconvenient truths! Our second story is about walking safaris – safari soulfood. We delve into 11 epic options for those who prefer a more immersive African holiday.

Thanks for taking up precious time to read this, and for supporting our cause by choosing Africa Geographic as your safari company.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Click to listen to this editorial online

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Our stories this week

LION TROPHY HUNTING
Dr Paul Funston unpacks the scientific and ethical failures of lion trophy hunting policies – and the deadly cost to iconic pride males

WALKING SAFARIS
Walking in the bushveld with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about the detail of nature. Here are 11 top walking safaris

Travel Desk

TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS

Habituated lowland gorilla trekking in Odzala-Kokoua – 8 days – from US$13,980pps
Trek for an up-close encounter of habituated western lowland gorillas on this eight-day safari. Find the hidden wildlife on guided baï and rainforest walks. Take a river cruise or go on a kayak safari down Lekolo River and experience the wealth of life living in and on the shores of these waterways. This safari will leave you spellbound and with unforgettable memories to take home.

Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days – from US$7,605pps
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 1 space left!

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here.

Your conservation impact

Your AG safari just helped save Tsavo’s tuskers, South Africa’s pangolins and Africa’s birds of prey.

Thanks to your safari booking with Africa Geographic, you have made a real difference. We’ve just donated a portion of our safari earnings to some incredible conservation projects: Tsavo Trust’s big tusker project, Provet and the Limpopo Pangolin Collective, and the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme.

When you travel with AG, you do more than explore Africa’s wild places – you help protect them. A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like these. Because of your decision, these key species remain protected.

Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.

Please continue to lend your support to these impactful organisations here: Tsavo Trust, Provet and the EWT Birds of Prey programme.

WATCH:

Blondie, a well-known, young, collared pride male in Zimbabwe’s Hwange region, was recently trophy hunted after reportedly being lured with bait. His death has sparked global outrage and raised urgent questions about lion conservation. Watch the video to learn more about this unfolding story. (03:50) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

11 top walking safaris

Africa, the untamed continent, beckons adventurers with its extraordinary wilderness spaces and unique wildlife. There are many ways to explore its wonders, but none is more immersive and intimate than what is offered on walking safaris. On foot, the sudden amplification of sound, smell, touch and adrenaline creates a profound sense of connection to nature that has been all but lost in our frenetic, modern lives.

Options for walking adventures when on an African safari vary. There’s something on offer for all adventurers: from a morning or afternoon stroll while staying at a lodge, to a fully fledged walking safari taking place over a few days, where you have the option to sleep out in basic tents. We’ve included various options below, covering the best of all there is on offer.

So, lace up a sturdy pair of walking shoes and prepare to ignite your wanderlust with our 11 favourite African walking safari destinations….

Check out our selection of walking safaris for your next African safari. We have many safari ideas to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Often referred to as the home of walking safaris, Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is a playground for visitors seeking an authentic and unspoilt wilderness. Here, generations of expert guides have followed in the bootprints of Norman Carr to conserve the tradition of exceptional on-foot experiences. Stride over sandy riverbeds, navigate oxbow lakes and discover riverine forests, all the while observing the rich diversity of life (from dung beetles to elephants!) in Luangwa. Check out safaris in South Luangwa here.

Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe

Mana Pools National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most breathtaking protected areas, known for its picturesque Zambezi River floodplains, ethereal Ana tree groves and abundant wildlife. From African wild dogs (painted wolves) and towering elephant bulls to massive herds of thirst-driven buffalo and the lions that stalk them, Mana is a land designed to be explored up close and personal. It is also one of the few national parks where travellers can walk without a guide. Zimbabwe is also home to some of the best (and, in some cases, eccentric) walking guides in Africa, and securing their services is guaranteed to bring out the best in your African safari. Check out our safaris in Mana Pools here.

Alternatively, if you are looking for a truly wild walking experience, where you’ll camp in a remote spot with limited facilities, and have daily encounters with wild animals, then Chitake Springs offers just the ticket. Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools, away from the Zambezi River. The campsite, used for walking safaris, is based at the only available water source in this part of the park – a magnet for wildlife. Find out more about safaris to Chitake Springs here.

walking safari — Heading out for the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

Trekking for mountain gorillas is a walking safari of a very different kind – one that many have described as a profound and spiritual experience. The fern-fringed, muddy paths of the fairy-tale Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are verdant and bursting with secret sounds. While finding the gorilla families may take several hours of hiking, the reward at the end is the chance to go eye-to-eye with our endangered and sentient relatives. Observe their intricate social interactions, marvel at their human expressions, and be moved by the simple presence of these extraordinary creatures. Browse our safaris to Bwindi here.

Akagera National Park, Rwanda

Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s only Big 5 reserve and has fast become one of Africa’s most exciting safari destinations. A standout experience here is the opportunity to traverse a northern area of the park on foot with expert rangers while tracking white rhinos: a rare and thrilling chance to connect with these endangered giants up close. Check out our safaris to Akagera here.

Okavango Delta, Botswana

The swampy oasis of the Okavango Delta in Botswana is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in Africa, which, by extension, makes it one of the best places to traverse on foot. Marvel at the Delta’s labyrinthine channels and vast floodplains as you tread softly through the wilderness in the company of the highly skilled guides who know the secrets of this waterlogged paradise. Your walking safari will likely also involve time in a mokoro – gliding silently along the water channels as your expert poler reveals this water wonderland to you. We have several safaris to the Okavango Delta – see more here.

Tread lightly through the Delta to experience incredible wildlife on foot

Tsavo East and West National Parks, Kenya

The rugged beauty of the vast Tsavo landscape is filled with the ancient magic of true wilderness, and walking here is akin to escaping to a bygone era. This is a land of legends, where many of Africa’s largest remaining tuskers roam, their thick skins shaded rust by the region’s famous red soils. From open savannahs and massive river systems to lava fields and woodlands, experienced guides will lead you in the search for giant elephants, maneless lions, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx and even critically endangered hirola antelope. See our safaris to Tsavo National Park here.

Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

The Serengeti is synonymous with Africa’s Great Wildebeest Migration – the Greatest Show on Earth. Still, few realise its vast plains can be explored on foot, granting unique privacy even in the busiest tourist months. Imagine embarking on a journey in the company of Maasai guides eager to share their intimate knowledge of their wilderness heritage. Witness the awe-inspiring landscapes, spot lions lazing under acacia trees, and feel the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras on one of Africa’s most immersive walking safaris. Peruse our safaris to the Serengeti here.

Just under 100km away, the diverse and wildlife-rich Ngorongoro Conservation Area also provides explorers an opportunity to walk in the largest unbroken caldera in the world, explore extinct volcanoes, and meet Maasai herders along the way

Walk across the vast Serengeti plains to get up close to the migration action

Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park is perhaps one of the country’s best-kept African safari secrets but for an ardent following of experienced travellers drawn to the park’s remote and rugged appeal. The iconic Chilojo Cliffs are perhaps Gonarezhou’s most famous feature. However, the ancient baobabs, thriving elephant herds and jaw-dropping vistas all contribute to securing the park as an exceptional walking safari destination.

Laikipia County, Kenya

The mantra of the private conservancy experience in Kenya is one of exclusivity and freedom, and nowhere is this better epitomised than the mosaic landscapes of Laikipia County. Here, the low-density, high-quality approach allows travellers to customise their experience in a truly unique manner. Going on at least one walk is a given. Still, the full experience can even include accompanying ecological teams into the field to aid in monitoring endangered species, tracking lions, or even walking with baboon troops. With each step, you become a part of this remarkable landscape, forging a meaningful connection with the wilderness and creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Greater Kruger, South Africa

The private reserves bordering South Africa’s world-famous Kruger National Park offer the chance to leave the confines of a vehicle behind and set out on foot, led by experienced trackers and armed rangers. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents. Check out our safaris to Greater Kruger here.

Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia

In the desolate beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, embark on a unique walking safari that combines rugged landscapes with fascinating wildlife encounters. Traverse the vast dunes and arid plains, where desert-adapted elephants roam, lions hunt in the shifting sands, and seals frolic along the coastline. This untamed wilderness showcases the astonishing resilience of life in the most extreme of environments. Check out spots to stay in and around the Skeleton Coast here.

And on that footnote

From the sweeping plains and savannahs to the remote reaches of the coastlines and dense forests, Africa’s walking safari destinations offer an intimate connection with nature that few other experiences can match. Whether you seek the thrill of encountering iconic wildlife, the tranquillity of walking through pristine landscapes, or the chance to recentre your soul, it’s time to open your senses to the wild beauty of Africa.

Beyond the ‘Six-Year Rule’: The fatal flaw in lion trophy hunting policies

Across Africa’s protected areas, lion trophy hunting remains a highly contentious issue – especially when young, iconic pride leaders are killed under the guise of sustainability. Policies like the widely adopted “Six-Year Rule” are meant to regulate this practice, but critics argue that they’re outdated, misapplied, and biologically flawed. In this searing opinion piece, leading lion conservationist Dr Paul Funston draws from decades of fieldwork and research to unpack how current regulations are failing lion populations – and why meaningful reform is urgently needed.

The issue of hunting underage and iconic lions around Africa’s protected areas is a longstanding problem. Personally, I am sick of it. The injustice, the spin, the intransigence, the occasionally poor conduct by the hunting fraternity, and even poorer governance by statutory authorities.

Seeking solutions to the age issue in their Letters to Nature paper in 2004, Karyl Whitman, Craig Packer and others, focusing on the Serengeti lion population, suggested that lion populations could remain stable if only male lions of six years or older were trophy hunted.

This led to the suggestion of a six-year age threshold or “Six-Year Rule” as an acceptable standard for lion trophy hunting. It was widely supported by conservation scientists as sustainable. I was not convinced. The model did not consider whether the hunted males had cubs, their notoriety, or the current effects on lion populations by other causes of lion mortality. Bottom line: it was just a mathematical model with significant caveats.

Chief amongst these is that the Serengeti is not the typical African savannah, with the model not taking account of biological differences across the lion range. Nor did it account for other sources of human-induced lion mortality, such as poaching, persecution, and the effects of habitat encroachment. All of which are significant causes of lion mortality and population decline in virtually every lion population in Africa.

African governments that conserve and hunt lions were thrilled; the “Six-Year Rule” allowed minor amendments to their lion trophy hunting. Amendments that quelled the queries being raised by CITES, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) and other international bodies governing trophy importation.

Mopany hunted — Mopane, a pride male who was killed in a trophy hunt, striding over his territory in the East of Hwange

The era of the “Six Year Rule” legitimising hunting very young male lions had well and truly arrived. Well-meaning scientists had given African governments an easy way out of their problems.

It took twelve years for new research to emerge suggesting that the “Six-Year Rule” was inadequate. This research was done in a more typical savannah woodland system in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. Here, as with most other areas, lions were trophy hunted, poached, persecuted and exposed to habitat encroachment and were in decline.

A new model was published from this research in 2016 in the Journal of Ecological Applications by Scott Creel, Twakundine Simpamba, Matt Becker and others. It recommended a strategy that combined periods of recovery (years of no hunting), an age limit of seven years or older, and a low quota per unit area (~0.5 lions shot/1,000km²).

However, these recommendations still did not account for familial ties of the lions, nor their notoriety. These were recommendations not at the individual level, but rather at the population level. Again, it was purely mathematical, predicting the impact of removing male lions of a certain age from a lion population.

It was, however, far more sensitive to lion populations and offered a much better alternative. Thus far, however, it has been ignored by all range states hunting lions, most lion conservationists, as well as regulating bodies such as CITES, USFWS, etc.

The model assumes all males above a certain age would be removed and examines the effects on the lion population. Although this seems unrealistic, in most African hunting blocks, it is likely that all male lions above a certain age could potentially be hunted each year. Such is the demand to hunt wild African lions, and so high are the typical quotas.

Entering the fray in Zimbabwe

When I started working on trophy hunting issues in Zimbabwe in 2012, it was common practice for hunters to shoot lions as young as two to four years old. Lions of five, six or older were by far the minority in the annual harvest. I have examined the photos of many hundreds of trophy-hunted lions since then, to assess their age. It’s a task I don’t like! Notwithstanding my feelings, since Zimbabwe implemented an age-based hunting system in 2013, the hunters have steadily increased the age at which lions are harvested, but not by enough.

Lion SOAfM2 of the Somadada pride was bow hunted in the Gwaai ICA in 2018 at the age of 2.5 years old

There’s currently a pause – an intransigence – to adapt the existing “Six Year Rule” to integrate the more recent scientific findings from Zambia, the “Greater-Than-Seven-Year Rule”. A situation which is reflected in all range states that hunt lions. They were quick to improve in the mid-2000s, but have not kept up with new evidence. This is because CITES, USFWS and other importing nations are content with the “Six Year Rule”, and the African range states vehemently push this, making inaccurate claims that they are using the “best available science”.

The governing bodies are permitting the hunting of lions who have seldom been successful fathers. It’s completely unacceptable. African range states and international governing bodies have failed to look after lion populations, ignoring new scientific findings.

Lions like Blondie – a father of ten young cubs – are killed as a result. It’s legal and supported by the authorities.

Blondie trophy hunted Hwange — Blondie the lion was trophy hunted at the age of 5 years and 3 months

Each country has slightly different regulations, but all the major lion hunting countries – Tanzania, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and Zambia – apply some version of the outdated “Six Year Rule”. The best would seem to be Niassa National Reserve in Northern Mozambique, where lions must be over six years old to be considered for a reasonable quota, effectively making the minimum age of seven years old. In Tanzania, the rule is six years old, and the same applies to Zambia.

However, in Zimbabwe, the legal limit is five, which is not old enough! How can the legal age for hunting a lion in Zimbabwe be five? At times, this would mean male lions being hunted that have never even sired cubs, let alone raised them to dispersal age.

Zimbabwe has a bizarre version of the “Six-Year Rule”. In Zimbabwe, if a hunting outfitter, with a quota of two male lions, hunts two lions, six-year-old or older males, he is rewarded with an additional lion on quota the following year. However, if a five-year-old lion is hunted, the quota remains unchanged. Unchanged for hunting a male lion barely old enough to breed!

The quota is only suspended if a lion under four years old is hunted.

This is why shooting Blondie was legal. It’s got nothing to do with whether or not he was baited, collared, etc. Five years old = fair game.

It happens all the time. In 2017, hunters lured a male lion, Sinangeni, across the infamous railway line that separates Hwange National Park from hunting blocks and shot him at only three and a half years old. Sinangeni had formed a coalition with the son of Cecil, Xanda, a magnificent lion just going on six years old.

Xanda and Sinangeni were fathers to cubs in two prides of lions. Undeterred by killing the underage Sinangeni, the hunters soon killed Xanda, barely two years after his famous father had been killed. The cubs of their pride never stood a chance. They vanished, along with the hopes for Cecil’s lineage that flowed through Xanda.

The consequence? The hunting outfitter’s quota was reduced from two to one.

Basically, in Zimbabwe, hunters can kill whichever lion they like with no or minimal sanction. In my experience in the country, many hunting outfitters are willing to operate within the rules set by the government. But there are some rogue operators who consistently hunt underage lions who secure their permits and permissions through political connections. These operators cast a bad light on those professional hunters who stick to the rules set by the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA).

I was present in Harare in a key workshop in 2013 with ZPWMA when a fellow scientist, overly sensitive to their fellow Zimbabwean trophy hunter friends, pushed this rule to the point of implementation. It was implemented to “accommodate” Zimbabwean trophy hunting operators not willing to change practice significantly, and to protect revenue streams for the government.

It was a poor decision, and it’s still in place more than a decade later. No matter my pleas as a leading lion scientist to have it changed. No matter how many Xandas and Blondies are killed. The safari operators and the government largely seem to be indifferent. The broader society protests, the more entrenched they become. It’s all about making money as close to the skin as possible; it’s not about population persistence and viability.

Blondie the lion trophy hunted — An image posted of Blondie’s trophy hunted body on social media. The image has since been removed

The reason for the poor use of the “Six-Year Rule” in Zimbabwe is that, in the findings of Whitman and Packer’s 2004 study, it was suggested that hunting all six-year-olds and five-year-olds would only slightly reduce the lion population, not causing a significant decline.

Trophy hunters managed to get away with this interpretation when authorities introduced the new lion hunting rules in 2013. This was a misuse of the scientific input of myself and others, and has continued to fool CITES, USFWS, and others that lions are sustainably hunted in Zimbabwe.

Many researchers know this. But they don’t oppose it. Every year, GPS-collared lions are killed by hunters. Researchers state that GPS-collars are not there to protect lions from being hunted, but simply to include information on research databases. Fine, but then use the data to contribute to research.

Just how long does research need to continue, when there are already existing findings that can be used to contradict Zimbabwe’s reasoning for the “Six Year Rule”? Being a conservation scientist today requires more than just publishing papers in a country miles away from the reality on the ground. Hwange is not just a research laboratory for endless research and camera trap surveys; it is a conservation landscape needing input and guidance.

Bloondie the lion trophy hunted — Blondie photographed in April

Seven years old – a bare minimum for lion trophy hunting

The difficulty in accurately determining a lion’s age in the field complicates the issue further. The recommendation is that any hunted lion should be at least seven years old or older (Creel et al. 2016). Thus, in my book, there should be an “Eight-Year Rule”.

This is supported by Jennifer Miller, myself, and several other scientists who reported in Biological Conservation in 2016 that seven years, or ideally older, was the minimum age at which the juncture was estimated. We found that five- and six-year-old lions could not be reliably told apart.

Thus, both key scientific advances in 2016 have been ignored by Zimbabwe and the other range states that hunt lions. The flawed “Six-Year Rule” remains in place two decades later, unchallenged by WildCRU and Panthera (who both engage in lion conservation activities in Hwange, such as the mitigation of human-wildlife conflict between lions and communities), CITES, USFWS, and others. Zimbabwe has been given a free pass to hunt underage lions.

ZPWMA faces a significant challenge. They are mandated to generate income from wildlife, including through trophy hunting, to support protected area management. Trophy hunting is a substantial source of revenue outside of Zimbabwe’s national parks. ZPWMA have little to no choice but to allow hunting, to contribute to the management of parks and other wildlife estates.

Trophy hunting outfitters, driven by their need to earn a living, naturally benefit from and encourage this relationship. The Zimbabwean government sees no issue with this arrangement. They find it acceptable to have photographic tourism in some areas and sustainable hunting in others. It’s been that way ever since parks were established under British rule from the 1920s to the 1940s. The modern, independent government has not reviewed or altered these policies in any significant way.

The practice of trophy hunting occurs throughout the hunting season every year, with about 30 wild lions hunted annually across Zimbabwe, most of which are six years old, and some are older than that. At a broader level, this is considered sustainable.

Notoriety – Trophy hunting of iconic lions

However, even the “Eight-Year Rule” presents a conundrum: if all lions above a certain age are hunted, and even if this is biologically sustainable, does it then mean every lion above that age is fair game?

Controversy inevitably arises when well-known lions, like Blondie, Cecil, Humba, Netsai, etc. are hunted. These lions, often seen as iconic and beloved, spark public outcry, mainly when they are hunted near areas that are also used for photographic tourism. This creates a significant problem as these lions are not just animals; they are seen as essential members of their ecosystems and our broader societal community.

Thus, the issue extends beyond just age. Lions that have gained iconic status, regardless of their age or whether they have cubs or not, are treasured by society. The broader public will never view their hunting as a legitimate or “sustainable” practice. No matter whether supported scientifically or not.

This sentiment was evident in the reactions to the deaths of lions like Cecil, Humba, and Netsai, who, despite having fulfilled their biological roles, siring countless cubs, were mourned when hunted.

Blondie, by comparison, has not fathered any cubs to dispersal age – his cubs are still young.

The Zimbabwean government faces a complex situation. They need to balance the interests of safari hunters and photographic tourism operators, who often clash, especially near the borders of national parks such as Hwange. This conflict damages Zimbabwe’s image and reputation for wildlife conservation and must be addressed.

A potential solution could involve a new system where, once a lion is deemed to be iconic, it becomes untouchable, protected from hunting regardless of its age. In this system, unknown male lions above seven years of age are hunted without sanction on quota. This approach could alleviate much of the controversy surrounding lion hunting in Zimbabwe.

In conclusion, the Zimbabwean government must revise its policies based on scientific evidence, adjust the age threshold for hunting, and find a way to protect iconic lions. These steps are essential to resolving the ongoing conflicts and improving the management of the country’s wildlife resources.

The question though remains, can “we” – perhaps those of you who read this article – live with a system in countries like Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique, and potentially Botswana, where lions in hunting blocks of seven years of age or older are hunted sustainably interspersed with years of no hunting, and where a select few agreed-upon lions are classified as iconic – therefore are not trophy hunted, ever?

This is a higher-level question – is lion trophy hunting legitimate at all? If the answer to this is “no”, then a lot of thinking and many challenges await. It’s time we decided – is it the famous lions we care so much about, or all lions? What are the real costs and benefits?

Resource list

Creel, S, Simpamba, T, et al. 2016. “Assessing the sustainability of African lion trophy hunting, with recommendations for policy”. Ecological Applications 26;10(1377): 2347-2357. https://doi.org/10.1002/eap.1377
Jennifer R.B. Miller et al. 2016. “Aging traits and sustainable trophy hunting of African lions”. Conservation, Vol. 201:160-168. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocon.2016.07.003
Whitman K, Starfield A, Quadling H, Packer, C. 2004. “Sustainable trophy hunting of African lions”. Nature Mar 11;428 (6979): 175-178. https://doi.org/10.1038/nature02395

Further reading

Trophy hunted – another Hwange collared pride male lion: Blondie, a collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, wasn trophy hunted after being baited, leaving behind 10 cubs.
Hwange’s lion dynasties, and the threats to their legacy: Hwange is a top safari spot for seeing lions, many of which are well known. Read about some of Hwange’s lion legends & their challenges
Trophy hunters kill another breeding Hwange lion – Mopane: Trophy hunters kill another breeding lion (named Mopane) from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park – in a mirror of the Cecil tragedy
Trophy hunting will not save Africa’s lions – Opinion editorial: Trophy hunting will not save Africa’s lion populations, & the UK ban on imports is a positive step for conservation, writes Hans Bauer

About Paul Funston

Dr Paul Funston is a leading African conservationist with over 30 years of experience dedicated to the protection of lions. He holds a PhD in Zoology from the University of Pretoria, where he studied lion population dynamics and behaviour in Kruger National Park. Paul is a recognised authority on predator-prey relationships, habitat connectivity, and sustainable lion conservation.

He has led major conservation initiatives across Africa – including in KAZA, East, West, and Southern Africa – focusing on protected area expansion, community-based coexistence programmes, and predator-prey recovery policy. His work includes developing lion-proof livestock enclosures, training postgraduates, and mentoring young conservationists in lion monitoring.

As Director of African Lion Conservation (PTY) LTD, Paul consults with governments, NGOs, and reserves to shape predator management strategies and support habitat restoration. A wildlife photographer and specialist safari guide, he uses his fieldwork to inspire global audiences and drive impact. His life’s work ensures Africa’s lions continue to thrive in the wild.

THIS WEEK

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Bonobos challenge power norms + secret safari season + epic Lake Malawi safari

Did you know that the actual prime safari season is not the crowded months of July and August? That busy period is largely a function of the extended northern hemisphere summer break. Sure, wildlife activity in those months is good, often excellent, but the subsequent months hold richer rewards usually enjoyed by fewer travellers with good safari advice.

For example, in Southern Africa, the months of September to mid-November offer sightings that are often off-the-charts. The dry season is peaking and the first rains have not yet arrived. Access to water and food is limited and sightings are predictable. These are warm months, especially October and November which can be very hot, which keeps the less intrepid away, but for those seeking safari nirvana, these are superb months. And prices have usually come off the busy season highs. Even the popular Mara River crossings extend into mid October in most years …

Africa is a huge, complex continent, with regional and seasonal variances added to the longer cycles of boom and bust that nature uses to drive evolutionary change. No matter which time of year you travel, there is always something going on that will blow your mind and remind you that we are mere passengers on Good Ship Earth. Ask us, we live here.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

It’s a joy to share good news that celebrates Africa’s wild places. Maputo National Park has just been named Mozambique’s first natural World Heritage Site: a recognition of its glow-up from depleted wilderness to thriving sanctuary. Here you’ll find nesting turtles, roaming elephants, undisturbed coral reefs and extraordinary mangrove forests – making this a conservation win worth celebrating. We’ll soon share a full guide to exploring this extraordinary park where wildlife thrives, communities benefit, and tourism makes a real impact.

In the meantime, don’t miss our guide to another unique Mozambican protected area, Limpopo National Park, below. Plus, we examine how female bonobos are flipping the script on power politics in our Decoding Science story.

Enjoy exploring Africa with us!

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Story 1

LIMPOPO NP

Explore wild beauty, 4×4 trails, rare wildlife & local culture in Mozambique’s incredible Limpopo National Park – part of a visionary peace park

Story 2

BONOBO POWER POLITICS

Female bonobos rise to power through coalition & cooperation, challenging dominance norms in the animal kingdom – & human assumptions

TRAVEL DESK:

2 AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS

Art safari in the Big 5 Timbavati – 7 days – from ZAR79,370pps

Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 06–12 September 2026 – only 3 spots left!

South Luangwa, Victoria Falls & Lake Malawi safari – 12 days – from US$7,895pps

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our ready-made safari ideas.

AG SAFARI GUEST ANNI SAYS:

AG safari guest, Anni from South Africa, went on a solo safari to Botswana. Here is what she had to say about her experience:

Magical Mashatu. “Mashatu Tented Camp was exactly what my soul needed. Remote, small, not too many people. Only canvas between me and nature, yet comfortable. Every night I heard hyenas, jackals and at times lions calling. I knew I was truly in the wild. I saw leopards, lions, cheetahs, loads of elephants, and so much more. I could not have asked for more. The guides had amazing bush skills, and the staff was very accommodating. Other guests in the camp were great company for a solo traveller. My trip was unforgettable, and a huge thank you goes to Christian Boix and the Africa Geographic team for a very well-organised trip.”

WATCH:

From elephant hunter to devoted guardian: Ndondondo Bienvenu now protects Chinko’s last elephants. Witness his powerful transformation and the revival of this Central African Republic wilderness once on the brink. (06:31) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Limpopo National Park

Tucked between the iconic Kruger National Park and the Limpopo River lies a vast, untamed wilderness few have explored. Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP), offers remote 4×4 adventures, immersive community encounters, and a slower, wilder safari experience. This is where nature returns on its terms – and travellers are invited to be part of that story.

Centrally located in the spectacular landscapes of Southern Africa’s Lowveld, Limpopo National Park offers a serene wilderness escape. Framed by the rugged Lebombo Mountains to the west and bordered by the world-renowned Kruger National Park, this remote Mozambican sanctuary is laced with scenic rivers – the Olifants in the south, the Shingwedzi through its heart, and the great Limpopo to the east, from which the park takes its name.

Established in 2001, Limpopo National Park – also known as Parque Nacional do Limpopo – was founded with a vision: to conserve biodiversity, uplift rural communities, and nurture eco-tourism in a historically marginalised region. The park spans a vast 1.1 million hectares (11,000km2) of unspoiled wilderness and natural beauty.

The park is co-managed by the Mozambican government and the Peace Parks Foundation. The park is part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA) and aims to restore wildlife migration routes and promote sustainable tourism. The Peace Parks Foundation has been involved in the park’s development since 2001, with a focus on infrastructure, community support, and conservation.

At the centre of this conservation vision is the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP) – a cross-border initiative that links key protected areas across Mozambique, South Africa, and Zimbabwe. Once fully realised, this area will connect iconic conservation regions, including Kruger, Limpopo, and Gonarezhou National Parks.

Visiting Limpopo National Park is more than just a nature getaway – it’s a chance to support and witness a visionary conservation journey.

Landscape and ecology of Limpopo NP

Limpopo National Park’s landscape is a patchwork of ecological features. From the jagged Lebombo Mountains to lush riverine forests along the Limpopo, the park reveals a striking range of ecosystems.

Although the region is dry, with an average annual rainfall of 550 mm, its rivers, when flowing, are lifelines. During the summer rains, these watercourses draw wildlife in droves, offering vibrant, seasonal wildlife spectacles.

The park’s ten identified landscapes offer ecological diversity, with five dominating most of the terrain. Among these, the Nwambiya Sandveld is particularly important – a habitat rarely found in neighbouring Kruger and home to rare and endangered flora.

A quintessential sight in the park – an iconic baobab tree

The mopane shrubland, dominated by the hardy mopane tree, may seem less promising for game viewing, but it supports a surprising diversity of mammals, birds, reptiles, and invertebrates.

The Lebombo Mountains and hilly granite plateaus along the park’s western edges bring rocky drama and scenic views, while the striking Shingwedzi Cliffs rise above the river, offering epic lookouts.

Grassy floodplains trace the rivers, while mixed woodlands cloak the rocky hills of the Lebombo. There is also a narrow belt of riverine woodland along major watercourses – a corridor teeming with life rarely seen in other parts of the park.

The Massingir Dam is a prominent feature that plays a significant role in the park’s ecosystem and local communities. It’s the second-largest reservoir in Mozambique, situated on the Olifants River.

These varied habitats bring scenic immersion and incredible wildlife encounters.

Limpopo NP’s tourist attractions

Limpopo National Park is far more than a stopover between South Africa and Mozambique – it’s a destination in its own right. Wildlife sightings here may be less prolific than in Kruger, but the park’s remote serenity is part of its allure. With sections of the border fence removed, wildlife is returning naturally.

For intrepid travellers, the 4×4 self-drive route is a must. Navigate the park’s rugged terrain between Pafuri, Mapai, Giriyondo, and Massingir, camping at designated sites along the way. Don’t miss the dramatic Shingwedzi Cliffs.

Cultural immersion is another highlight. Seven villages remain within the park’s boundaries, offering visitors insight into local community traditions. As the park undergoes development, a voluntary resettlement program led by the Mozambican government aims to balance human presence with wildlife conservation. The project has relocated four villages to three development nodes, providing safe housing, access to clean water, fertile agricultural land, and services such as schooling and health care.

Currently, a few guided activities are on offer. Paddle the Rio Elefantes on a three-day canoe trail, camping along the banks. Some visitors opt for the five-day Elefantes Gorge Backpacking and Fishing Trail for a blend of hiking, fishing, and solitude.

For a rugged thrill, tackle the five-night Shingwedzi 4×4 Eco-Trail – featuring remote camping, river crossings, and immersive bush experiences. The four-day Palarangala Wilderness Trail offers guided game walks and wilderness camping for a slower, more intimate bush experience.

Alternatively, there is the Lebombo Hiking Trail – a four-day journey through unspoiled landscapes with experienced guides, wildlife sightings, and unforgettable scenery.

Limpopo NP — Shingwedzi Cliffs amongst dense woodlands

Wildlife

The dry season, from July to October, offers the best wildlife viewing in Limpopo NP. As surface water becomes scarce, animals congregate at waterholes, increasing the likelihood of sightings. It’s also the ideal time for travel: fewer mosquitoes, comfortable temperatures, and better road conditions.

The park shares much of its biodiversity with Kruger and is home to iconic species, including elephants, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, and sable antelopes. Although sightings can be sporadic, especially of predators, listen at night for the haunting calls of hyenas and lions. In less frequented parks like this one, wildlife takes time to acclimatise to tourism, making each sighting that much more special.

Hippos and crocodiles inhabit the rivers, and conservation efforts continue to support endangered species, including African wild dogs and black rhinos.

Birders are in for a treat – over 500 bird species have been recorded. The rainy season, from November to April, is peak birding time, when migrants arrive, and many birds display their breeding colours – even if it clashes with optimal game-viewing months.

Look out for African fish eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, bateleurs, kori bustards, lappet-faced vultures, and saddle-billed storks. Listen for the distinctive call of the southern ground hornbill – a sound as evocative as the African bush itself.

Notable sightings might include African broadbills, eastern nicators, pink-throated twinspots, grey-rumped swallows, lemon-breasted canaries, African pygmy geese, and the elusive Pel’s fishing-owl.

Explore and stay in Limpopo NP

Planning ensures the best possible experience.

From May to August, dry winter days are cool and comfortable, with crisp nights around 10°C and pleasant days in the mid-20s – ideal for game drives. Summers (November to April) bring searing heat, humidity, and dramatic afternoon storms. Daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C, though the average sits in the low to mid-30s.

Accommodation options range from rustic campsites to comfortable chalets. Whether you’re seeking guided game drives or self-sufficient camping, there’s something for every type of explorer. Staying in nearby villages and taking day trips into the park is also an option.

The park’s accommodation includes four 4×4 campsites, an overlander site for camper vans, individual camping stands, and self-catering chalets.

4x4 Limpopo — The park’s 4×4 routes are not for the faint of heart

Access is straightforward via road or air from Mozambique, South Africa, or Zimbabwe. The nearest airports are in Maputo (Mozambique), Hoedspruit (South Africa) and Mbombela (South Africa), with car hire and guided tour options readily available.

Entry gates – including Giriyondo, Pafuri, Massingir, and Mapai – operate year-round, with seasonal hours. Always check road and border conditions in advance and travel in a sturdy, well-equipped vehicle.

Limpopo National Park is not about instant gratification or ticking species off a list. It’s a place for those who savour stillness and seek meaning in the quiet return of wildlife. As the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park vision edges closer to reality, every visit here becomes more than just a safari – it becomes part of a continental conservation legacy.

Want to explore more safari destinations in southern Africa? Browse our safari ideas here. Or tell us about your dream trip, and our travel experts will plan your safari.

Further reading

Take a deep dive into the reserve that makes up one of Africa’s most iconic safari destinations: Greater Kruger, South Africa
The iconic Kruger National Park is one of the world’s great conservation success stories and a popular safari destination to find the Big 5. Read more about Kruger National Park here

How bonobos flip the script on power

In the lush, dense rainforests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, one of our closest relatives is rewriting the rules of power. While most primate societies, and most mammals for that matter, are male-dominated, bonobos are different. Here, the females call the shots. They decide whom they want to mate with, and when males make advances, females ward them off instead of submitting. Females even control the shared food sources, with males patiently waiting their turn. This has puzzled naturalists for a long time, as it is unusual behaviour in the animal kingdom. What makes the bonobo society so different from other primates? How did the females get to the top?

For years, unusual behaviour has long puzzled scientists, and it took analysing 30 years’ worth of data to find some answers about bonobo dynamics. A study published in Communications Biology offers insights into what led females to the top. It is not brute strength, but something else entirely: the power of sisterhood.

Researchers analysed data from six wild bonobo communities in DRC’s Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. What they uncovered challenges the long-held belief that strength and aggression dictate dominance. Instead, bonobos show us a different path, where social bonds and cooperation determine who holds power. It is a revelation that challenges long-held assumptions about how status works in nature.

“We present for the first time evidence that female coalitions [are] a way by which females gain power against males,” Martin Surbeck of Harvard University, who runs the Kokolopori Bonobo Research Project station. “Female coalitions exist in other species and can take the form of matrilines (line of descent from a female ancestor), like in female-philopatric baboons, but bonobos are special in that coalitions are mainly formed against males, and between unrelated females,” says Surbeck.

That’s remarkable, considering bonobo society is fluid. Females are the ones who migrate, often joining unfamiliar groups. Yet even as outsiders, they form the stable core of their communities. “Adult males, often their sons, accompany them,” noted Surbeck. “Bonobo groups split into smaller subgroups called parties that vary in size and composition, but they sometimes also travel together. Female coalitions can occur anytime during the day when needed, though they do not seem to gang together in anticipation.”

Barbara Fruth of the Max Planck Institute, who has led the LuiKotale Bonobo Project research station for 30 years, adds: “There were competing ideas for how, none of which had ever been tested in wild bonobos living in the jungles in which they evolved.”

The study tested three main ideas. One, the self-organisation hypothesis, suggests that social dynamics shift through repeated victories and losses, and momentum builds, allowing some females to climb the ranks despite their smaller size. In male-heavy groups, constant competition can weaken some males. Another, the reproductive control hypothesis, argues that if males cannot easily determine when females are fertile, especially when several females are fertile simultaneously, they lose control over mating. This levels the playing field and shifts influence to the females.

But it was the female coalition hypothesis that stood out. The findings were clear: females unite during conflicts, particularly against males. This significantly boosts their rank and reduces harassment. “I did not expect such a clear indication of the relevance of female coalitions,” explains Surbeck. “I thought that female sexuality would matter more, since we’ve seen that, on a dyadic level, females gain leverage against males when signalling ovulation.”

Great apes — The Ekalakala bonobo group rests on a fallen tree in the Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. In the middle, the bonobo female Ivoire is the highest-ranking individual in the group

Across the six bonobo communities studied (drawn from three field sites with observation periods of two to six years), 85% of coalitions were female-led and directed at males. These were not random emotional outbursts, but they were strategic and coordinated, often sparked by disputes over food or male aggression. In those moments, the effect was apparent: dominance came not from strength, but from unity.

One of the particular findings that stood out was the clear link between coalition strength and female dominance rank. Females who formed effective coalitions more frequently consistently held higher status. These alliances helped them access better food sources, assert themselves in group decisions, and reduce male harassment.

Why is this significant? In many mammalian societies, males tend to dominate. Bonobos break this narrative. Their society demonstrates that cooperation, rather than conflict, can lead to power and influence.

Of course, gathering these insights was not an easy task. “One of the biggest challenges of the study,” Surbeck notes, “was that bonobos only occur in remote parts of the DRC. The logistics of running long-term study sites and collecting the necessary data were incredibly demanding.”

Yet those efforts have paid off. This study deepens our understanding of primate behaviour and challenges assumptions about dominance and gender in the animal kingdom. It shows that, under the right conditions, solidarity can be stronger than force.

Want to go on a bonobo-seeking safari? We’ll help you plan your tailor-made bonobo safari. Alternatively, browse our other safaris here.

Resources

Martin Surbeck, Leveda Cheng, Melodie Kreyer, Gerrit Gort, Roger Mundry, Gottfried Hohmann, Barbara Fruth. Drivers of female power in bonobos. Communications Biology, 2025; 8(1)

Further reading

Research reveals bonobos & chimps use sex to resolve tension. Great ape sex offers insight into the evolutionary roots of human intimacy. Read more here
Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action

THIS WEEK

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Collared pride lion hunted in Hwange + 10 African safari sundowner spots + epic Madagascar & Rwanda safaris

This week witnessed one of the most shocking examples yet of mass tourism gone mad.

This recent Instagram video by private guide Nick Kleer shows numerous safari vehicles crowding the Kogatende Crossing in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, preventing the wildebeest herds from crossing the Mara River during the Great Wildebeest Migration. It clearly demonstrates poorly trained, unethical guides and carefree tourists out of their vehicles. The lack of law enforcement is also evident and de rigueur. I have vented about this before, and I repeat that while our governments view wildlife tourism as a cash cow with minimal investment required, this will only get worse.

Our industry also has to step up. My promise to you is this: We will identify the responsible operators, and I will contact each CEO for a pointed discussion. We vet the partners for our tailored safaris very carefully, and if any are involved in this disgusting fiasco, the relationship will be terminated. If enough of my fellow travel company CEOs do this, we can turn the tide.

This massive pressure on Africa’s wildlife and ecosystems is evident in many other popular areas, such as Kruger National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park.

On a happier note, scroll down to the heart-warming video below of a dramatic wild dog relocation in Mozambique. I was hooked from the first second. Well done to video creator Paul Steyn, a former teamAG member, and to the conservation teams on the ground – sterling effort!

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

It’s been a big month for South African Environmental Minister Dion George, who made two major conservation announcements that could signal a shift in South Africa. First up is the imminent publication of the Lion Prohibition Notice, which will ban new captive lion breeding facilities. It’s not an industry shutdown, but a move that many have been fighting for, which says that breeding lions for cub petting, trophy hunting, and the bone trade is no longer acceptable.

Hot on the heels of that news is the launch of the Rhino Renaissance Campaign in Kruger National Park, an ambitious 10-year plan to rebuild the white rhino population from 2,000 to 12,000. But getting to 12,000 rhinos will be a tall order. Big promises have been made. Will they shake things up on the ground, or are they lofty words destined to drift away on the policy breeze? We’ll be watching.

Trophy hunting season has arrived. And, as if on cue, we have discovered devastating news from Hwange: another collared lion has been trophy hunted. An Africa Geographic-sponsored collar, no less. There are serious ethical questions around this hunt, due to the presence of the research collar, and the young age of the lion, which had not reached the minimum age of 6 years required under Zim hunting guidelines. When will those who preach sustainable hunting confront the unethical practices within their own ranks and demand accountability instead of silence? Read more in our report on the hunt below.

And finally, to lift the mood and send you off with a smile, we’ve rounded up 10 of the most spectacular African safari sundowner spots in Africa. These golden-hour gems are all in places where wildlife is protected, biodiversity is celebrated, and the only thing getting taken away is your breath.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

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TROPHY HUNTED

Blondie, a collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, has been trophy hunted after being baited, leaving behind 10 cubs

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10 SUNDOWNER SPOTS

Sundowner, anyone? We reveal our top 10 sundowner spots in Africa – best enjoyed with exotic cocktails and delicious snacks

TRAVEL DESK:

2 AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS

Wild Madagascar – lemurs, baobabs & Tsingy – 10 days – from US$9,608pps

Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda – 10 days – US$6,570pps

This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this African safari.

Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our ready-made safari ideas.

AG SAFARI GUEST GERALD SAYS:

Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:

“Trust in the advice of Christian Boix. I have been travelling with Christian from Africa Geographic for more than a decade.

Amateur photography is my hobby, and each trip has been unique, well-planned, and fulfilled my purposes. Whether it was a tented camp in Zambia to see the bat migration, or a safari to Ethiopia. For our latest trip, I wanted to introduce my family of 11 (including 5 children) to the gorillas and chimpanzees of Uganda, the golden monkeys in Volcanoes NP in Rwanda, and the Great Migration in Serengeti NP. The details of the trip met our needs and desires. The smallest details were kept in mind, with travel arrangements precisely arranged. The drivers and guides were kind, knowledgeable, and fun to be with. Dining was always good.

AG safari expert Christian makes each journey a joy, and removes the anxieties of being in places that are really unknown to us. His judgment is always aligned with our needs, which are his first priority. And, on this past journey, the treks into the rainforests of Kibale and Bwindi were fantastic, and the golden monkeys in bamboo forests allowed for fantastic photography. Driving for miles and miles in the Serengeti among 1.5 million wildebeest and 400,000 zebras enabled me to begin to comprehend the magnitude of the Migration. We also saw a cheetah making a kill of a young Grant’s gazelle. Trust and enjoy.”

WATCH:

They were denning outside of safety: pups at risk, options few. In a bold conservation first, a wild dog pack is relocated 400km to a new life. This is the extraordinary story of a rescue no one thought possible. (20:53) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Trophy hunted: Another Hwange collared pride male lion

Blondie, a well-known, collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, has been trophy hunted after being lured into a hunting area with bait – leaving behind 10 cubs

During the week of 29 June 2025, Blondie was shot and killed by a trophy hunter just outside Hwange National Park, in the Gwaai / Sikumi Forest area. Despite wearing a conspicuous research collar and being younger than the recommended minimum hunting age of six years, this young lion was lured out of a photographic concession and killed in what many are calling a deeply unethical hunt. Yet, sources say the hunt took place legally, with all required permitting in place. The Professional Hunter is allegedly a member of the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association (ZPGA).

Blondie was collared by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (WildCRU), using a collar sponsored by Africa Geographic, in April this year. These GPS satellite collars are fitted to track free-roaming lions, prevent human-wildlife conflict, and support long-term conservation. Africa Geographic approached WildCRU and the University of Oxford for comment, but we are yet to receive an official response.

Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley had this to say: “As the sponsor of Blondie’s research collar, we are dismayed and angered by this development. That Blondie’s prominent collar did not prevent him from being offered to a hunting client, confirms the stark reality that no lion is safe from trophy hunting guns. He was a breeding male in his prime, making a mockery of the ethics that ZPGA regularly espouses and the repeated claims that trophy hunters only target old, non-breeding males.”

At the time of his death, according to one source, Blondie was 5 years and 3 months old and the dominant male of a pride that included three adult females and ten cubs – seven cubs around one year old and three approximately one month old. Zimbabwe hunting regulations recommend a minimum age of 6 years for lions trophy hunted, focusing on mature, non-pride males.

At just over five years old, Blondie was in the prime of his life. He was not a transient male on the periphery; he was a territory-holder, and a father. His sudden loss is expected to cause turmoil for the pride, with a high likelihood that incoming rival males will kill his youngest cubs. Such infanticide is common in lion dynamics, especially when coalitions shift. In the chaos that follows, the lionesses may flee the safety of the concession into communal lands, where snares and human conflict await.

Lion trophy hunted — Blondie with his Zingweni pride cubs

Blondie had often been seen on the private photographic concession since 2022 (where hunting is prohibited). Blondie took over the Zingweni pride and sired the current cubs. The pride’s movements frequently followed buffalo herds around Dete Vlei and into the Ganda Forest, outside Hwange National Park’s boundary.

According to reports from operators in the area, Blondie was last seen in his core range in June 2025. Observations suggest that he was baited out of the photographic concession over a period of several weeks and lured into the hunting area, where he was subsequently shot. The entire pride reportedly followed him during this period.

There are concerns that the Professional Hunter (PH) involved in the hunt was aware that Blondie was collared and that he had dependent cubs. It has been reported that, two weeks prior to the hunt, the hunter confirmed seeing Blondie with cubs and lionesses. When approached by AG for his side of the story, the PH declined to comment, other than to say that the hunt was “conducted legally, and ethically.”

Blondie was the last known descendant of the Somadada pride, which had previously moved from Hwange into community areas. He had since established a stable pride in an area where resident lions have historically been scarce, due in part to conflict with local communities and previous hunting pressure.

Stakeholders have raised questions about the ethics of the hunt, specifically concerning the lion’s age, his status as an active pride male with dependent cubs, and the presence of a research collar.

AG reached out to the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association for comment – we are yet to receive a response.

The photographic operators in the region report that there are few, if any, established lion prides within the hunting concessions themselves. As a result, male lions are often drawn from adjacent photographic areas or park lands. Conservationists and local stakeholders continue to call for a review of lion hunting quotas along the boundaries of Hwange National Park, and for clearer ethical guidelines in such cases.

Hwange National Park’s lion population has long been under pressure from trophy hunting operating from adjacent hunting concessions. These concessions frequently lure pride males out of protected photographic tourism zones – often using bait – to make them available to hunters. Known lions like Cecil, Xanda, Mopane, Sidhule, and others have been trophy hunted just outside park boundaries, despite having research collars or being active pride males, leading to major demographic disruption within local prides. Studies indicate that from 1999 to 2012, human activity caused approximately 88% of male lion deaths in Hwange, mostly through trophy hunts, resulting in skewed age-sex structures and affecting cub survival and pride stability. Although local lion numbers rebounded when hunting quotas were reduced, renewed hunting pressure has coincided with renewed population declines and ongoing conservation concern.

Africa’s 10 most sublime sundowner spots

Cocktails anyone? African safari tradition dictates that the end of the day be celebrated with a traditional sundowner – and snacks, of course! – enjoyed as the last golden rays of the setting sun impart their hue to the surrounding wilderness. Whether accompanied by designer G&Ts, local brews/wines, or some ice-cold water for the somewhat sunburned, there is no doubt that Africa boasts some of the planet’s best places to watch the sun go down.

Below is a list of some of our favourite sundowner spots, and why (in no particular order). Find your inspiration here, and start dreaming about that epic African safari.

Want to experience sundowners on an authentic African safari? Browse our safari ideas here. Or, tell us about your dream trip, and our travel experts will plan your safari for you.

1. The Oloololo Escarpment, Maasai Mara, Kenya

The Oloololo Escarpment rises sharply 300 metres above the plains of Maasai Mara, affording visitors an extraordinary view of the serpentine path of the Mara River. If you are a fan of classic films, you might recognise this spectacular vantage as the one seen in the film Out of Africa. Recreate your own African romance and celebrate the spectacle that is the Great Migration. Take a moment to breathe, take a step back, and quite literally see the “big picture”.

2. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia

The stark beauty of this salt and clay pan at the heart of the Namib-Naukluft National Park lies in the towering cerise dunes – some of the world’s largest. The rich, soft sand of Sossusvlei has drifted in over the centuries, and begins to glow as the sun sets while the barking geckos begin their evening chorus. It is time to settle back with a sundowner and watch the rise of arguably the best stargazing display in Africa.

3. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (or Zambia)

The world-famous Victoria Falls mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As the mighty Zambezi tumbles down over 100 metres, it throws up a spray that can, on occasion, be seen for kilometres. At dusk, the descending peace allows you to consider what David Livingstone must have felt when he first laid eyes on the world’s largest waterfall.

4. Ngorongoro Crater, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

At the centre of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the Ngorongoro Crater – the largest intact caldera in the world – surrounded by a rim that rises 2,300 metres above the grasslands below. Almost all Africa’s iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Where better to appreciate the ancient geological forces that shaped East Africa than from the rim of a massive, extinct volcano? It’s a bit like stepping back in time to a lost world (but with readily available drinks).

5. Forest baïs, Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville

Treetop hides overlook baïs frequented by forest elephants

Odzala-Kokoua National Park, rich in biodiversity, lies in the northern reaches of Congo-Brazzaville and protects an enormous expanse of pristine Central African rainforest. Its many streams tumble their way through the trees before draining into the swampy forest baïs. Nestled deep in these Congo rainforests, Odzala-Kokoua offers treetop hides where you can sip as forest elephants, buffaloes and other wildlife descend to drink at these mineral‑rich baïs at day’s end. Okay, so this is less about the sunset and more about the atmosphere befitting a life-changing sundowner. Alternatively, you can stay at the camp’s elevated deck, enjoying sundowners around a fire as evening sets in and the night noises of the rainforest envelop you.

Africa safari sundowner — The deck of Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua is engulfed by forest. Here, you can enjoy a fireside sundowner along with forest sounds

6. Chobe River, Chobe National Park, Botswana

The Chobe River, the lifeblood of Chobe National Park, marks the border between Botswana and Namibia before its confluence with the Zambezi River to the east. A sundowner is, in theory, meant to be a relaxing experience, but the sense of anticipation as thirsty wildlife approaches the water’s edge in the day’s final moments adds another dimension to your sundowner. Watch from the comfort of many a lodge deck perched along the river, or head out on a river cruise as the last rays descend on the day.

7. Lake Malawi, Malawi

Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Nyasa) is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift System and the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the world. The shores are lined by unspoiled sandy beaches, and below the surface, over 1,000 different freshwater fish species dart between the rocks. Why Lake Malawi? Because beaches, sunsets and cocktails are a winning combination.

8. Lanner Gorge, Makuleke Contractual Park, Greater Kruger, South Africa

This magnificent viewpoint marks the border between the magical Makuleke Contractual Park and the Kruger National Park. Here, the Luvuvhu River has carved a winding path through the sandstone to create a breathtaking gorge that is over 150 metres deep at some points. The views from the lookout point provide the perfect spot to ponder what life must have been like for the people of Africa’s ancient civilisations 900 years ago.

9. Luangwa River, South Luangwa, Zambia

Life in the Luangwa Valley centres around the Luangwa River and the rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding savannahs and woodlands. South Luangwa is the largest of the valley’s four national parks and is renowned for the enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes that congregate along the riverbanks. After an adrenaline-tinged day of walking in Big 5 country, soaking your feet in the cool waters of the Luangwa River is the perfect way to decompress.

African safari sundowners — Spotting elephants riverside

10. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

The Serengeti’s vast, golden plains set the stage for some of Africa’s most unforgettable sundowners. Out on game drive, guides often find a quiet kopje or open stretch of savannah where you can watch the sun melt into the horizon, silhouetting giraffes or elephants in the amber light. Back at camp, the experience continues with drinks around a crackling fire, overlooking the wilderness as dusk gives way to starlight and the sounds of the nocturnal Serengeti awaken. Pure safari magic.

Final thoughts

Wherever you might find yourself in Africa, enjoying the beach, sitting with sleepy lions, or decompressing after a walking safari, stay there. Take a moment, look up and appreciate the unique display nature has prepared for you.

Further reading

The ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here are our choices of 15 top wildlife experiences on the continent
Don’t miss our guide to the six best locally brewed beers from top-class breweries to enjoy on your African safari. Check it out here
Between meals, cocktails, spa treatments and pool dips, when should you head into the wild? We recommend our favourite safari time

THIS WEEK

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Another Botswana tusker hunted + wild Nsumbu, Lake Tanganyika + 2 idyllic bush & beach safaris.

They will not stop targeting Africa’s free-roaming icons till every trophy has been surgically removed and hangs on a wall somewhere as a silent testimony to warped values, greed and ego. Our newsbreak below refers.

The trophy hunting industry targeting free-roaming wildlife is rotten to the core; the operators who do care about genuine sustainability (yes, they do exist, despite their mute status on issues like this) are swamped by the rest. They know that, and we know that. This outdated industry continues to suck away Africa’s biodiversity despite rapidly reducing free-roaming genetic stocks because enough individuals are sufficiently incentivised to keep the machine rolling and because the marketing machine is slick and aggressive. Cue the social media attacks. The end will come when all worthwhile individuals have been extracted. To better understand my view on hunting including and beyond free-roaming trophies, click here.

Meanwhile, my team and I continue bringing these atrocities to the world’s attention in the hope that the tide turns before we reach ground zero. We can do this, we can drive trophy hunting off the map by outcompeting them.

Know that every safari you enjoy with us supports our conservation media efforts, in addition to our donations to projects that make a tangible difference at ground level here in Africa. Thank you, and Safari njema, good people!

As I write this, a gang of red-headed weavers is smashing the fresh pollen buds of a flowering knob-thorn tree about 30 meters away – a wonderful spectacle indeed 🙂

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

In the extreme conditions of the bushveld, where South Africa borders Botswana, and frosty cold mornings meet blazing hot afternoons, helmeted guineafowl have shown us that survival is all about clever adaptation.

After a year-long study from Madikwe, researchers have found that guineafowls have developed their own way of handling the heat (and the chill). While some animals huddle for warmth or sprint for shade, guineafowls puff up like feathered pom-poms when it’s cold, stretch tall and catch the breeze when it’s hot, catch morning sunrays to heat up, and gather in noisy flocks not for warmth, but to find food and keep an eye out for predators. No drama, just smart daily moves that help them ride out nature’s wild mood swings. And as our climate throws more curveballs, it’s clear: being flexible, having options, and knowing when to sunbathe might just be the secrets to survival.

This week, we bring you a guide to Zambia’s remote Nsumbu NP, a wildlife-rich wilderness on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Plus, we report on yet another shocking super tusker trophy hunt. See these stories below.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

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ANOTHER TUSKER HUNTED

Another Botswana tusker has been trophy hunted in Northern Botswana, in hunting concession NG42

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NSUMBU NP

Discover Nsumbu NP – a remote Zambian wilderness on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, where wildlife thrives

TRAVEL DESK:

2 SAFARI IDEAS

Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days – from US$6,031pps

The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Lake Manyara NP to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti NP, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.

South Africa bush & beach safari – 7 days – from ZAR56,700pps

This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a chic boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.

OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…

Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:

“AG recently arranged a trip for my two adult kids and myself to Kafue NP and Busanga Plains in Zambia. We stayed in the Musekese and Ntemwa-Busanga Camps. Our trip was a delight in all aspects. The local charter flights were very good, and ground arrangements flawless. Both camps are beautifully sited, comfortable and very well run. All staff are so friendly and our two guides excellent. A bonus was the quality of the food. Liuwa Plain is our next objective!” – Peter, South Africa

“AG safari expert Benjamin was particularly attentive on email and helped sort a few of our issues quite quickly. Friendly and co-operative. Our guides in Tanzania and Kenya were super knowledgeable and attentive. Highlights were the hot air balloon experience and bush breakfast, and seeing lions and elephants up close. More highlights were the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust visit, our giraffe experience, Diani Beach and spending time with the Tanzanians and Kenyans.” – Jill, Australia

WATCH:

She’s the last of her kind – elusive, solitary, and deeply stressed by human contact. SANParks and top ecologists are working on a sensitive, long-term plan for the lone Knysna elephant. Jeff Ayliffe joins the team in the forest to uncover her story. (04:42) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Nsumbu National Park

On the remote shores of Lake Tanganyika, where Zambia meets the vastness of Africa’s Great Lakes, lies Nsumbu National Park, a place where wilderness whispers of revival and resilience. Once scarred by decades of poaching and neglect, Nsumbu is now a conservation success story, where elephants roam freely, lions return to ancestral grounds, and rare thickets flourish once more. Here, the rhythm of nature is uninterrupted, the landscapes are untouched, and the spirit of Africa is alive and thriving.

Nsumbu is based at the northernmost tip of Zambia and the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika, close to Lake Mweru. The Nsumbu Mweru Landscape comprises three national parks, three Game Management Areas, a community conservancy, and substantial tracts of intact habitat that link these protected areas. Wildlife once ranged across the entire ecosystem in significant numbers, but then years of illegal hunting took their toll, depleting the park’s wildlife. Extensive conservation efforts over the past decade have, fortunately, led to a turnaround, with monitoring showing a growth in wildlife numbers, particularly in the heart of the park, where animal populations are now spreading across larger areas.

A rocky start and a brighter future

Nsumbu National Park covers 2,026km², including over 100km² of protected lake waters and approximately 100km of lake shore. Natural bays, rocky coves, vertical cliffs, and sandy beaches line the park’s long shoreline, while inland, rugged hills, deep valleys, and grasslands are cut through by the Lufubu River, which, flanked by escarpments on either side, marks Nsumbu’s eastern boundary and feeds a variety of streams and wetlands.

Like other remote parks in Zambia, Nsumbu was virtually abandoned in the 1980s and 1990s. What followed was several decades of decline. A historical trade route, demand for ivory, political instability in neighbouring DRC and decades of rampant poaching for game meat, predominantly with wire snares, depleted the area’s wildlife, and led to the total loss of lion, leopard and black rhino.

Poaching has now been brought under control, and animal numbers are increasing, in part thanks to a buffer zone created by the two Game Management Areas that adjoin the park. In 2017, Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) formed the Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) in partnership with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), resulting in a significant and positive impact on the park. Recovery of the Nsumbu Tanganyika Ecosystem is underway. Today, herds of elephant and buffalo are seen once again, and healthy populations of antelopes in turn attract predators. There is also good birdwatching here, with over 300 species recorded. Nsumbu also holds the most extensive remaining tracts of Itigi-Sumbu thickets – a fragile ecosystem of which over 60% has been lost in the last 50 years.

In 2024, Nsumbu National Park achieved the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Green List Status, awarded only to the most sustainable and efficient global conservation efforts. Nsumbu is only Zambia’s second park on the list, the other being North Luangwa National Park, whose management is also a partnership between FZS and DNPW.

Wildlife of Nsumbu

Nsumbu is not a prime wildlife-viewing destination, but animal populations are definitely on the increase. Elephants and buffaloes often come to the lakeshore to drink, and a variety of antelope species, including roan, sable, eland and hartebeest, can be seen on game drives. Bushbucks, warthogs and pukus regularly frequent the beaches. The rare blue duiker is one of the park’s specialities, along with the shy, swamp-dwelling sitatungas. Other species found here are spotted hyena, side-striped jackal, serval, zebra, impala, waterbuck and reedbuck. Lions were reintroduced to Nsumbu in 2024, with further reintroductions planned for the future. Leopards are rare, and the spotted hyenas are shy, but can be heard and sometimes even seen at night.

pukus Lake Tanganyika — Pukus amongst the grasses

Nsumbu National Park — Sitatunga resting amidst Nsumbu’s wildlife

Flora of Nsumbu

Lake Tanganyika is a typical Rift Valley lake, characterised by dramatic, steep sides for much of its length. In most places, the shore is rocky, but there are also sandy stretches. The Lufubu River dissects the park, which runs through the Yendwe Valley. In this and other valleys in the park, there are groves of riparian trees, including the apple-ring acacia (Acacia albida) and Natal mahogany (Trichilia emetic), along with dense, shrubby woodland (Pteleopsis anisoptera). Along the lakeshore, strangler figs and candelabra trees are found, while the remainder of the park is primarily comprised of miombo woodland and combretum thicket, with patches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket.

Itigi-Sumbu thicket is a rare ecosystem, composed of up to 100 species, many of which are endemic. The most extensive remaining tracts of the Itigi-Sumbu forest are found only here in Nsumbu, as well as in parts of Tanzania and small pockets of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Characterised by thick, primarily deciduous, woody vegetation, and traditionally the habitat of elephants and black rhinos, this is a unique and endangered vegetation type, crucial yet fragile. With their restricted distribution, sensitivity to fire and vulnerability to deforestation, studies indicate that roughly 50% of the Itigi-Sumbu thickets in Tanzania and up to 70% in Zambia have already disappeared.

Nsumbu harbours the largest remaining stretches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket

Birdlife of Nsumbu

Birdlife in the Nsumbu National Park is prolific, with a total of 329 species recorded within the park, including many summer migrants. Commonly encountered species around the lake include the grey-headed gull, lesser black-backed gull, white-winged black tern, whiskered tern and, of course, the ubiquitous African fish eagle. Flamingos are one of the more spectacular migrants, while lakeshore inhabitants include African skimmers and spoonbills, along with a variety of storks, ducks and herons. Palm-nut vulture and Pel’s fishing owl are also occasionally seen.

The lake and its fish

Lake Tanganyika is Africa’s deepest and longest lake, spanning over 600km and containing 15% of the Earth’s available freshwater. Teeming with hippos and some of the largest crocodiles in Africa, swimming is not advisable. Nile crocodiles here can reach up to six metres in length, and hippos regularly emerge at night to ‘mow’ the grass. Also found in the lake are endemic reptiles like the Lake Tanganyika water snake (Lycodonomorphus bicolour) and water cobra (Boulengerina annulata). However, it is the life that has evolved here over the last 10 million or so years that makes Tanganyika special.

Jewels of Tanganyika – the lake’s endemic cichlids flash brilliant colours in Africa’s inland sea

Changing water levels over the millennia and a patchwork of habitats have led to an explosion of evolution among the lake’s cichlids, with around 250 unique and individual species. The cichlids of Tanganyika are remarkable in their diversity, complexity of behaviour, colour and breeding habits, and all but two species in the lake are endemic.

Nsumbu photographed from Lake Tanganyika

The Lufubu River

Beyond the lake, the free-flowing Lufubu River is the largest tributary of southern Lake Tanganyika. The sizable and perennial Lufubu River winds its way through the park, dissecting it from west to east, before pouring itself into the lake. Along its 250km journey, from the highlands to the lakeshore, the catchment encompasses diverse streams, beautiful oxbow lakes, and wetlands. The magnificent Chika Falls and the smaller Mwepwe Falls are Zambian heritage sites. At the same time, the extensive wetlands where the Lufubu meets the lake are part of the Ramsar Wetland of International Importance site that covers the length of Tanganyika’s shoreline within Zambia. The Lufubu is poorly documented and understudied, with great potential for species discovery. A 2023 study found that 25 of the 37 species sampled in the Lufubu are undescribed and endemic to the system.

Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Project

The Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) is a long-term conservation partnership between the Zambia Department of National Parks & Wildlife and the Frankfurt Zoological Society, aiming to restore and protect the wider Nsumbu ecosystem. Since the start of the NTCP in 2017, a comprehensive conservation and protection strategy has been implemented, including investments in professional law enforcement, a canine unit, and rigorous snare removal. These efforts have seen a turnaround in this once heavily poached and depleted ecosystem. NTCP is also actively working to improve fisheries management and promote sustainable fishing practices in and around Nsumbu.

Local and indigenous communities play a vital role in the ongoing recovery and protection of Nsumbu. In surrounding community lands, conservation and livelihoods are deeply intertwined. Through collaborative initiatives such as the NTCP, local residents are engaged in anti-poaching patrols and sustainable natural resource management. Employment opportunities in park operations, tourism, and infrastructure development have provided alternative incomes and strengthened community buy-in. Traditional knowledge and cultural heritage also inform conservation strategies, fostering a sense of custodianship over the landscape. As wildlife returns and tourism slowly grows, these communities are increasingly positioned as stewards and beneficiaries of Nsumbu’s revitalisation, ensuring the park’s future is not only wild but also inclusive.

Ecological monitoring, including camera traps and line transects, has been initiated, with analysis showing an increase in animal numbers, indicating recovery rooted in the well-protected heart of the park. In the early years of NTCP, elephants sought refuge in the more protected northern sector of the park. Today’s collar data show that, with improved protection, elephants are spreading across wider areas of the park for the first time in decades. No elephants have been recorded as poached since 2018, and despite increased patrols, fewer and fewer snares are being recovered.

In 2021, 200 buffaloes and 48 zebras were successfully translocated to Nsumbu National Park from North Luangwa to boost the remnant populations in the area. Buffalo and zebra, along with puku and warthog, are key prey species for lions, and their reintroduction was also part of a long-term plan to reintroduce lions, the apex predator, to Nsumbu. As a part of rewilding initiatives, in September 2024, three lions (two females from the same pride and a male from a different pride) were successfully translocated from North Luangwa National Park to Nsumbu.

When to visit

Nsumbu receives few visitors, so it never feels crowded. From July to October, at the middle to end of the dry season, the water in the bush dries up, and the animals tend to stick closer to the lake. This is the best time for wildlife viewing. The thinner vegetation also means easier game viewing.

During the rainy season, from November to April, the lake is at its most beautiful, and this is a popular time to visit for angling. Most of the rain falls in thunderstorms, in the late afternoon or early morning, with lots of sunshine in between. Large numbers of migrant birds visit during the wet season, and the landscapes are stunning, with many perennial waterfalls visible from the lake. The terrestrial part of the park is inaccessible during this time.

Getting there

For intrepid self-drivers, the journey from Lusaka takes around two days, either via a direct route to Nsumbu, where the final stretch is a gravel road, or to Mpulungu Harbour, where travellers can arrange a speedboat transfer or board the local ferry. Those looking for a quicker option can fly to Kasama, followed by a road transfer to Mpulungu and a private boat across the lake to Nsumbu. The most seamless journey is a private charter flight straight into Chisala Airstrip within the park – ideal for those short on time.

Explore and stay

Safari-goers in Nsumbu National Park can enjoy a variety of activities that showcase the park’s diverse landscapes and rich biodiversity. Game drives offer the opportunity to spot a wide range of wildlife and incredible birdlife. Along the lake’s edge, guided boat safaris reveal hippos, crocodiles, and the striking scenery of hidden bays and sheer cliffs. The more adventurous can explore the Lufubu River by boat or on foot. Anglers will also find a variety of options here. Whether on land or water, every activity in Nsumbu offers a sense of exploration and discovery in one of Zambia’s most unspoiled wildernesses.

Despite its remote and wild setting, Nsumbu National Park offers a selection of intimate lodges and comfortable camps that blend seamlessly into the natural landscape. Nestled along the scenic shores of Lake Tanganyika, these accommodations range from beachside chalets to budget-friendly rooms and well-equipped campsites. Many feature lake views, onsite dining, and relaxed communal spaces, while some offer added luxuries such as swimming pools and air-conditioned rooms. Activities from these bases include guided game drives, fishing excursions, boat safaris, snorkelling, and sundowner cruises, making them not just places to stay, but immersive experiences in their own right.

Nsumbu National Park stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and the impact of dedicated conservation. From the depths of Lake Tanganyika to the heights of its escarpments, the park offers an unparalleled experience for those seeking solitude, adventure, and a connection to the wild. As wildlife returns and ecosystems flourish, Nsumbu invites travellers to witness the rebirth of a wilderness that, once on the brink, now thrives with life and promise.

Find out about Zambia for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Further reading

Read about Ross Exler’s solo kayak expedition across the Great Lakes: Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi and Lake Victoria
Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are its lifeblood. Here’s our list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent
Liuwa Plain NP and Busanga Plains are two Zambian hidden gems, where thunderstorms transform plains into lush landscapes dense with wildlife. Read about Liuwa Plain here, and Busanga Plains here

Trophy hunted: another Botswana tusker

Another massive elephant bull was recently killed in northern Botswana, according to our trusted sources on the ground: the surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. This bull had at least one tusk weighing 109 pounds, ranking him among Africa’s largest elephants.

This magnificent Botswana tusker was trophy hunted in NG42, a trophy hunting concession leased and managed by Johan Calitz Safaris. The professional hunter (right) and the client featured in the photo above are citizens of Botswana. NG42 borders Chobe National Park to its north and Nxai Pan National Park to its south, and has been earmarked for possible inclusion into Nxai Pan NP to protect the annual Botswana zebra migration between the parks.

We estimate there are 86+ tuskers remaining across Africa. Southern Africa is home to 59+, while East Africa hosts 27+ tuskers. This count excludes Central African forest elephant populations, where tusk measurements are rarely estimated.

Botswana, a popular luxury photographic safari destination, hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, with many of these animals migrating seasonally across much of southern Africa, particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), where Botswana and Zimbabwe are the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlements, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles, forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by poachers, farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels.

Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of large tree cover.

Comment from our CEO, Simon Espley:

“The killing of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of selecting large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of these genetically gifted icons from the African landscape. This probability in my lifetime will be a sad indictment of an archaic industry that promotes killing for fun and ego and that refuses to evolve to modern realities where the ‘resource’ is no longer abundant and inexhaustible.“

THIS WEEK

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Guides or influencers? + Tanzania safari circuits decoded + Tsavo tusker Buchuma

Shots fired! The editorial below from a respected safari guide will piss off some of his colleagues and attract vitriol. Uncomfortable truths tend to do that.

Sticking your head above the parapet always results in a defensive reaction from those who benefit from this behaviour, and, of course, unwelcome attention from those who react emotionally to headlines and fail to invest time in absorbing the details. Trust me in that regard; I have the scars to prove it.

Of course, Adam is referring to a tiny minority of safari guides who enjoy a skewed influence because their behaviour and posts are emotive and therefore favoured by algorithms that seek engagement above all else. To the other guides, those not engaging in these tactics, I say this: call out your colleagues on their behaviour. Drop them a direct message and do not back down when they inevitably react defensively. If you don’t regulate your own industry, the algorithms will…

Swimming against the tide is tiring, but ultimately rewarding. Congrats to you, Adam, for your brave missive. Hopefully, some of the culprits will rise above their self-appointed social media influencer status and change their ways.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

South Africa’s national bird, the elegant blue crane, is in trouble. Once the centre of a conservation comeback story, the blue crane’s stronghold populations have declined drastically, including in the Overberg and Karoo – enough to reclassify this iconic species as Vulnerable. The reasons are complex: fewer chicks fledging, habitat loss, collisions with powerlines, nests lost to predators or machinery, and farmlands that once seemed like safe havens proving treacherous under the weight of agrochemicals and poisoning.

But, this is not a swan song: the blue crane soared once before thanks to focused conservation, and it can again. This news is a call to action for all of us who find joy in a crane’s rattling call to support conservation efforts and spread the news.

This week, we bring you a comprehensive guide to Tanzania’s safari circuits, with everything you need to know. Plus, we look at the pressure that influencer guides are placing on wildlife, with a hard-hitting Op-Ed from Adam Bannister.

Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference

Story 1

TANZANIA SAFARIS

Tanzania is a bucket list destination for African safari enthusiasts & wildlife lovers. Here’s the lowdown on its four unique safari circuits

Story 2

GUIDES OR INFLUENCERS?

Are viral safari guides putting content before conservation? A call from Adam Bannister to restore ethics and integrity to guiding

TRAVEL DESK:

2 SAFARI IDEAS

Family safari to Maasai Mara, Amboseli & Samburu – 9 days – from US$22,938 per FAMILY of 4

Combine three iconic parks with family fun for everyone. This nine-day family African safari to Kenya’s three most iconic destinations is packed with adventure for everyone. Expect an astonishing variety of wildlife encounters, from the Big 5 and Great Wildebeest Migration of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, to huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli National Park, and the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and beisa oryx.

Walking with giants in Tsavo – Kenya – 13 days – from US$13,350pps

This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous Tsavo maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful tented camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.

BUCHUMA, ONE OF AFRICA’S LAST GREAT TUSKERS

Buchuma is a true giant of Tsavo, Kenya – a rare super tusker whose sweeping ivory touches the earth. First identified in 2014, Buchuma is known for his striking, wide tusks (the right one slightly shorter due to a break) and a unique scar on his left abdomen.

We’ve partnered with Tsavo Trust to help protect extraordinary elephants like Buchuma. Fewer than 100 of these tuskers remain across the continent – and Tsavo is home to at least ten. These elephants are constantly threatened by poaching and trophy hunting beyond Kenya’s borders.

Your support can help keep them safe. Donations go directly to Tsavo Trust’s dedicated aerial and ground teams, who monitor and protect these living legends every day. Help safeguard Africa’s last tuskers – find out more and lend your support here.

WATCH: Check out this teaser for Out of Mined – a powerful documentary that lays bare the beauty and fragility of South Africa’s West Coast. From sweeping coastal scenes to the voices of local defenders, the documentary is a call to action against the devastation caused by heavy mineral and diamond mining. The documentary outlines one urgent mission: to protect what remains of the West Coast. (02:07) Click here to watch
For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

The safari circuits of Tanzania

Tanzania is an extraordinary country, replete with an abundance of mesmerising natural marvels and magnificent cultural nuances. It is an essential bucket-list destination for safari enthusiasts and wildlife lovers. Of course, in an ideal world, these visitors would have boundless time and money to explore the country at leisure, but this is not a realistic option for most. For many, a trip across the world to visit Tanzania’s majesty may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Tanzania is traditionally divided into “safari circuits” to ensure that travellers make the most of their special journey.

These circuits divide Tanzania into the four corners of the compass and consist of an itinerary of destinations designed to minimise travelling time and maximise the experience. Tanzania is a diverse country, so each circuit offers its own unique magic, divergent scenery, and appealing wildlife encounters. The northern, southern, western, and eastern circuits encompass a selection of national parks, reserves, conservation areas and even, in the case of the eastern circuit, islands and beaches, that visitors can choose based on their interests.

Tanzania’s northern circuit

Tanzania’s northern safari circuit is unequivocally the most popular circuit on this list (and very busy with tourist activity during peak safari season, from June to October). The northern circuit includes destinations that are the stuff of safari, travel and film-making legend. For first-time visitors who only plan to visit Tanzania, this is almost unfailingly the place to start. It involves some of the best roads in Tanzania, so every destination is easily and (relatively) quickly accessible, and there are countless accommodation options available for every budget, from basic campsites to some of the most luxurious lodges in Africa. However, cutting costs could mean compromising on experience. A tailor-made journey is far more likely to deliver a truly rewarding experience.

Want to go on an adventure along one of Tanzania’s extraordinary safari circuits? Check out our top Tanzanian safaris on offer right now. Or, let us tailor-make a safari just for you.

The northern circuit stretches from Lake Victoria in the west to Mount Kilimanjaro in the east, and it is bounded by the Kenyan border to the north and Tarangire National Park to the south. It includes such iconic names as the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and, naturally, more time should be devoted to exploring these areas than others.

Serengeti National Park

Serengeti National Park is a land synonymous with the very essence of an African safari, where the majesty of the scenery and expansive atmosphere is matched by extraordinary wildlife viewing. Here, sweeping grass plains, rocky outcrops and woodlands support myriad animal species, all engaged in a primordial battle for survival.

Naturally, the Serengeti ecosystem is most famous for its role in the Great Migration – the second largest overland migration on earth. In fact, most of the year, the wildebeest herds move through the Serengeti before passing the international boundary into the Maasai Mara. No words can fully capture the dazzling feeling of sitting in amongst hundreds of thousands of animals that stretch as far as the eye can see or throw themselves helter-skelter at the mercy of the river crossings. However spectacular though it may be, the Serengeti is about more than the migration. The Big 5 are all present (the best chance of seeing the Big 5 is in the central Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater), and encounters with big cats and hyenas are all but guaranteed, viewed against the backdrop of breathtaking scenery.

The Serengeti ecosystem also incorporates several surrounding reserves and game control areas, all contiguous with the national park. These include Grumeti Controlled Area, Ikorongo Controlled Area, Loliondo Game Controlled Area and Maswa Game Reserve. The national park is also open to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area described below.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Ngorongoro Conservation Area is often described as Africa’s Eden, with its most prominent feature being the Ngorongoro Crater. This ancient volcanic caldera encircles one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa, giving the impression that time stood still at the centre of the massive geological cradle. Here, many of Africa’s most iconic animals (including the Big 5) thrive, and every year, Lake Magadi flushes pink as hundreds of flamingos arrive during the breeding season.

Tanzania Northern Safari Circuit — An elephant grazes at the bottom of the crater

Outside the crater, the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro (bordering and open to the southern Serengeti) serves as a critical resting point in the Great Migration, as over half a million wildebeest arrive on the short grass plains to calve. At the height of the chaos, an estimated 8,000 calves are born each day, forced to find their feet quickly or be lost to the predators that throw themselves into the wildebeest melee with joyous abandon.

The steep-sided ravine of Olduvai (or, more correctly, Oldupai) Gorge is another of Ngorongoro’s significant attractions, having yielded a timeline of our evolution as a species. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of societies and social complexities that today define Homo sapiens.

Lake Manyara National Park

Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, with the remainder of the park sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. Previously known for its spectacular displays of flamingos and other water birds, Manyara is low-key and less frenetic than the extravaganza of Serengeti or Ngorongoro. This makes it ideal as a launchpad for exploring the northern circuit of Tanzania. However, Lake Manyara National Park has experienced flooding in recent years, impacting safari experiences. While the park remains open, some areas are submerged, and access to certain wildlife viewing locations has been affected. The flooding has also led to ecosystem disruptions and affected wildlife sightings, particularly flamingos, which have largely moved on. Visitors may experience limited sightings, flooded roads, and replaced game-driving routes. To maximise your safari experience, aim for June–October, or plan for half-day visits/leeways if travelling during the wettest months.

Tarangire National Park

Not far from Lake Manyara, Tarangire National Park is the southernmost park in the northern circuit. It is a land of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas – unequivocally one of Africa’s most underrated African safari destinations, bursting with abundant wildlife. It is also an essential landscape for one of the lesser-known migrations in Tanzania because, during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available water sources. Tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction.

Mount Kilimanjaro

As Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro needs little by way of introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit its peak. Its snow-capped summit stands out incongruously against the flat Rift Valley scenery below, and even those reluctant to don hiking boots should be content to gaze upon this African legend from its base.

Arusha National Park and Mount Meru

The city of Arusha acts as the gateway to the northern circuit, meaning that Arusha National Park is usually the first or the last stop for travellers navigating the route. Within the park, the dormant volcano of Mount Meru is occasionally referred to as the “little brother” of Mount Kilimanjaro. It offers a much quieter and more intimate experience, along with spectacular wildlife encounters en route to the summit. Arusha NP and Mount Meru offer gentle and immersive introductions to, or conclusions for, your Tanzanian northern circuit safari, blending cultural experiences, lush landscapes, and convenient access to the region’s major national parks.

Mount Meru is Kilimanjaro’s “little brother”

Tanzania’s southern circuit

In contrast to the bustling northern circuit, Tanzania’s southern safari circuit is remote and wild, characterised by a feeling of absolute immersion without ever skimping on East Africa’s famous hospitality standards. This region is famed for its back-to-basics and authentic approach, where exploring on foot is an essential part of the experience and you can go for days without encountering another tourist. Much of this region is relatively arid compared to the luscious plains of the north but still incorporates areas with thriving swamps, verdant forests and spectacular waterfalls.

Ruaha National Park

Ruaha National Park is a gem of the southern circuit, an enormous and untamed semi-arid wilderness, divided by life-giving river systems and dotted with the pyknic forms of ancient baobabs. The rugged park supports high densities of herbivores (including sizeable herds of elephants) and one of the largest lion populations on the continent. Leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and African wild dog (painted wolf) sightings are frequent, and some lucky visitors have even managed to spot one of the park’s elusive striped hyenas.

Tanzania Southern Safari Circuit — A matriarch leads the herd to water in Ruaha

The protection of the greater Ruaha ecosystem is extended by the contiguous Rungwa, Kizigo, Usangu and Muhezi game reserves, all offering their own African safari experiences.

Nyerere National Park/Selous Game Reserve

Nyerere National Park extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, carved from the former Selous Game Reserve. The Rufiji River dominates the landscape, fanning into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes, and swamps, supplying a never-ending parade of thirsty animals drawn to the water’s edge. Though the declaration of the national park is intended to boost Nyerere’s tourism potential, there is no question that this remains something of a forgotten corner of Africa, where wildlife connoisseurs can lose themselves in the vast wilderness.

Mikumi National Park

Mikumi National Park lies adjacent to the northern border of Nyerere National Park and is easily accessible from Dar Es Salaam, making it a popular choice for local tourists. However, few international guests have yet to discover the splendour of Mikume’s expansive floodplains and prolific animal sightings.

Udzungwa Mountains National Park

Despite its proximity to the western edge of Nyerere National Park, the misty forests and picturesque, tumbling waterfalls of Udzungwa Mountains National Park make it seem worlds apart. These mountains are a biodiversity hotspot characterised by mind-boggling levels of endemism, with species including the Iringa red colobus, the Sanje crested mangabey, the Udzungwa partridge and the rufous-winged sunbird.

Tanzania’s western circuit

Unlike the northern and southern safari circuits, Tanzania’s western circuit breaks away somewhat from the more traditional safari fare. This is a shorter and more specialised circuit and should be combined with aspects from the northern or southern circuit if time and resources allow.

Gombe Stream National Park

Situated on the northeastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the tiny Gombe Stream National Park is one of only a few places in Tanzania where chimpanzees can be encountered in the wild. This intimate park sports exceptional biodiversity and is celebrated as the park where Jane Goodall first set up her now-famous research centre. Here, visitors can follow expert guides into the heart of the forest in search of our chimpanzee kin, admiring the many other primate species along the way.

A chimpanzee greets the setting sun in Gombe Stream

Mahale National Park

Also situated on the banks of Lake Tanganyika, Mahale National Park is substantially larger than Gombe, extending over the craggy Mahale Mountains and across rolling hills to the east. The forested western slopes are home to a substantial population of chimpanzees, with many families being the subjects of scientific study for over 50 years. And how better to celebrate a successful (and exhausting) day spent trekking for chimps than diving into the cool embrace of Lake Tanganyika’s crystal waters or lounging on its beaches, cocktail in hand?

Tanzania Western Safari Circuit — Picturesque Lake Tanganyika

Katavi National Park

Katavi National Park is one of Tanzania’s most electrifying African safari destinations, ruled by the cadence of the rainy season. During the late dry season, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun and its residents are forced to compete for access to the remaining water in a dramatic battle for survival. Visitors who venture here off the beaten safari track are rewarded with a natural African nirvana that they can enjoy all to themselves.

Tanzania’s eastern/coastal circuit

With all the excitement of an African safari, complete with early mornings, dusty roads and adrenaline-inducing sightings, it is well worth taking a few days to collect one’s emotions before returning home from Tanzania. And where better to do that than on one of the country’s tropical paradise beaches? Though the mainland offers some beautiful spots to soak in the sun, the islands off-shore provide the best seaside escapes.

Zanzibar Island

Zanzibar is the largest and most popular of Tanzania’s islands, renowned as a honeymoon destination and beach paradise. From dazzling beaches to the vibrant cultural hub of Stone Town, Zanzibar is an accessible and relatively affordable island Utopia. When planning your time in Zanzibar, it’s worth researching the different coastal areas: some beaches buzz with activity and crowds, others feel overly touristy with persistent beach vendors, and a few have little sandy shoreline but offer excellent snorkelling just offshore.

Mafia Island

Less crowded and more exclusive than Zanzibar, Mafia Island offers the perfect place to soak up the resplendent marine scenery, including snorkelling, diving with whale sharks, and even watching hundreds of turtle hatchlings make their perilous first journey to the sea.

Pemba Island

Like Mafia Island, Pemba Island is quieter than Zanzibar, removed from the trappings of mass tourism. Its fertile soils support rolling hills covered with fruit-laden coconut, banana and cassava trees. The warm waters surrounding it are famous for their exceptional diving and snorkelling opportunities.

Final thoughts

No matter the safari circuit, Tanzania is a country that consistently delivers excitement and copious natural wonders to its fortunate visitors.

Further reading

The Great Wildebeest Migration is the quintessential African safari experience. Here’s our detailed guide on everything you need to know
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro here

Guides or influencers? When content creation compromises wildlife

As social media rewards spectacle over substance, some private guides are prioritising viral content at the expense of ethics, safety, and the very animals they claim to champion. Drawing on firsthand accounts from across Africa and India, Adam Bannister explores the troubling rise of performative guiding – and makes a compelling call for a return to integrity, collaboration, and true connection with the wild

Private guiding, when done well, is one of the most valuable roles in the modern safari world.

Private guides bring a depth of knowledge, passion and continuity that can elevate a journey to something extraordinary. They often act as global ambassadors for conservation, bridging cultures and ecosystems. They open the eyes of their guests, and sometimes local guides too, to new ways of seeing the natural world. Their experience across diverse biomes allows them to offer layered perspectives, connecting dots across continents. At their best, they collaborate, inspire and enrich every environment they enter.

But with significant influence comes great responsibility. And, increasingly, I’ve noticed a troubling trend – one that’s being raised not by outsiders or critics but by the very people who share the field with them: the camp-based, often local guides who host these private guides on their home turf.

Over the past few months, I’ve been travelling across Africa and India, conducting training workshops for local, camp-based guides. In each of these sessions, I always carve out time to ask a simple but telling question: “What is the greatest challenge you face in your work as a guide?”

The answer, echoed across multiple camps, isn’t demanding guests, rain, bumpy roads, long hours or even time away from family. It is the behaviour of some private, often foreign, guides. And it strikes a chord that I can no longer ignore.

These are not just any guides. These are individuals, often high-profile, social media-famous personalities, who accompany their guests on safaris, frequently travelling between countries and camps. Increasingly, their work appears fuelled by Instagram likes, dramatic imagery and the need to secure the next client. But, in doing so, some are pushing boundaries – not only the ethical boundaries of wildlife viewing but also the patience and professional standards of local teams.

Guiding — The best safaris are guided by respect, patience, and presence

Local guides have told me, time and again, that it is these celebrity-style private guides (not the many who operate with care and professionalism) who make their jobs most complicated. They feel pressured to park in unsafe locations. They’re pushed for closer, riskier approaches. They’re urged to allow clients out of the vehicle, even in the presence of predators, all to get that coveted low-angle shot.

Some go so far as to place guests on foot beside lions, wild dogs, cheetahs or elephants – not for the guest’s deeper connection but for the sake of content. A quick scroll through their feeds reveals thousands of followers and carefully edited highlight reels of clients standing within metres of wild, dangerous animals.

This behaviour is deeply troubling. It’s reckless. It’s dangerous. And it erodes the foundation of responsible guiding.

What’s perhaps most disheartening is the imbalance of power. Many local guides, young men and women born into these landscapes, and trained under strict codes of conduct, feel unable to speak up. When a guide with hundreds of thousands of followers leans in and says, “It’s fine, trust me”, it takes extraordinary courage to push back.

Many don’t. They defer. They become, as one guide sadly told me, “just the driver”. But this is not how it should be. A great private guide should enhance an experience, not dominate it. They should bring depth, collaboration and storytelling, not override safety protocols and dismiss the concerns of professionals who live and work in that ecosystem. They should uplift industry standards, not drag them down.

Let’s be very clear: We are witnessing a shift where the image has become more important than the animal. And worse still, where the image is secondary to the footage of us getting the picture.

Wildlife appreciation used to be precisely that – quiet reverence, long hours of observation and interpreting the subtle nuances of wild behaviour. Now, for some, it has morphed into “look at me”. Guides once praised for patience and insight are being overshadowed by those who specialise in risk, spectacle and viral content. But there’s another layer of absurdity to all this.

distressed leopard — In this stock photo, a leopard, clearly distressed by the photographer’s presence, snarls in warning. The desire to create intriguing content is encroaching on the animal’s space, safety, and dignity, and endangering guests: a line no ethical guide should cross

Increasingly, these high-profile guides aren’t just chasing content at the expense of ethics; they’re doing it at the expense of their own guests. Guests who have paid generously for the privilege of private guiding now find themselves watching their guides perform for a camera. The guides are busy framing their reels and stories instead of interpreting the experience for those who hired them.

The priorities have become warped. Moments that should be about connection – a family of elephants crossing a river, the twitch of a leopard’s tail or the powerful sound of a lion’s roar – are instead treated as content opportunities. Instead of narrating behaviours or deepening understanding, some guides are walking into frame, adjusting GoPros and Insta360 cameras or instructing the guest to “stand just here” so the guide can get a shot.

It’s no longer about enriching the guest’s safari; it’s about building the guide’s brand. We can dress it up however we want. We can write lengthy captions about our extensive experience and how we’ve “read the situation perfectly”. But the truth is: If you’re looking through a lens or a phone screen, you are not fully present. You are not in control. And, if something goes wrong, the animal pays the price. It becomes stressed, habituated and unpredictable – or worse, it’s labelled a problem and removed.

We cannot pretend to champion conservation while simultaneously breaking the rules to manufacture drama for our benefit.

Let’s revisit what it truly means to be a guide. Our role is to expose people to the natural and cultural heritage of a place: its stories, its subtleties and its sacredness. To interpret behaviour, not stage it. To elevate the dignity of the animals and landscapes we work in, not reduce them to backdrops for personal branding.

Social media has given us incredible power. But with it comes enormous responsibility. If we have large followings, we must lead by example. If we claim to care about conservation, we must act like it, not just say it in hashtags. The irony is stark. The very platforms that could be used to educate and inspire are encouraging a race to the bottom, where the loudest, boldest and most outrageous content wins. The losers, inevitably, are the animals.

As an industry, we need a reckoning. We must ask ourselves: Are we part of the solution, or are we fuelling the problem? Let’s not forget why we guide. It is not for fame. It is not for followers. It is to awaken something in others – to be a bridge between the wilderness and the people lucky enough to witness it. The moment we place our content above the guest’s experience – or the animal’s welfare – we have stopped being guides.

If you’re seeking an unforgettable safari that makes a real difference, browse our ethical safaris and journey with purpose. Africa Geographic crafts tailor-made luxury safaris with trusted, ethical partners who prioritise conservation, communities, and animal welfare.

We have become influencers masquerading in khaki. This is not an attack on private guiding. Quite the opposite. It is a plea for the incredible power and potential of private guiding to be used well, with humility, ethics and grace. At its best, private guiding transforms lives, creates ambassadors for wild places and helps raise standards across the board. But it must be grounded in the right intentions. It’s time we return to integrity. It’s time we restore respect for wildlife, for each other and the guiding profession.

Because when a photograph becomes more important than the animal, we all lose.

Further reading

Habituating leopards: Jamie Paterson & Maxine Gaines take an in-depth look at leopard habituation & tourism ethics. Read the story here
In a refreshingly honest opinion editorial, we look at eco-ethics amongst safari guides as they go about finding animals for guests. Check it out here

THIS WEEK

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Parrots, predators & the Karoo + Zambia safari highlights

When it comes to the secrets of anti-ageing, perhaps it’s time we stop looking to serums, surgery and snake-oil salesmen, and start taking notes from the forests of Madagascar. African wildlife, once again, is showing us how it’s done. Move over Kris Jenner: the fat-tailed dwarf lemur has just emerged as Planet Earth’s most unexpected age-defying role model.

New research reveals that during deep hibernation, these tiny primates lengthen their telomeres (the protective caps on our DNA that normally shrink with age): effectively pressing pause (and rewind) on cellular ageing. While we power through stress and screen time, these lemurs are outliving their peers simply by switching off and sleeping through the lean seasons. Now scientists are hoping these sleepy little wonders might hold clues for us to better understand ageing in humans, without the need for living in a tree hole for seven months. Who knew the secret to youth might be a long, uninterrupted nap?

This week, we explore the wonders of one of South Africa’s lesser-known national parks: another gem of the Karoo, Mountain Zebra National Park. Plus, we debate whether captive breeding of parrots can reduce pressure on wild populations, or worsen the conservation crisis. Check out our stories below. And don’t miss out on our two incredible safaris to Zambia.

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Africa Geographic Editor

DID YOU KNOW?

We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!

Story 1

MOUNTAIN ZEBRA NP

Cheetahs sprint & Cape mountain zebras thrive in Mountain Zebra NP – a South African Karoo gem, rich in wildlife, views & conservation wins

Story 2

SAVING PARROTS

Can commercial captive breeding of parrots reduce pressure on wild populations, or does it worsen the conservation crisis?

TRAVEL DESK:

2 SAFARI IDEAS

Zambia luxury safari – Lower Zambezi & South Luangwa – 8 days – from US$9,495pps

Ultimate Kafue safari – 7 days – from US$4,950pps

This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephant. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.

OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…

Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:

Fabulous stay at Robins Camp: “Our trip to Robins Camps in Hwange NP, Zimbabwe, with a family group of 11 people, was perfect from start to finish. AG expert Dave took the time to understand what we were looking for and found the perfect 2-day stay for us within our time constraints and budget. He answered any questions thoroughly and promptly. It was delightful to disconnect from our busy lives, and just sit around the pool in the middle of nature, watching animals. The game drives were the highlight of our stay. Our guides were extremely knowledgeable about wildlife and were patient in answering our questions. It was a special treat to see hippos in their natural habitat, and to see three female lions with their two cubs. We are still savouring our memories. – Diana, USA

Africa Geographic planned a perfect Tanzania bush and beach safari for my family. Safari expert Stef planned our trip, and the lodges and camps were outstanding. The beach holiday was a perfect ending. Our guide Thomas was fantastic. – Tyrone, USA

Connect with us today, and let AG start planning your dream safari.

WATCH: Planning an African safari can be overwhelming – but it doesn’t have to be. Wildlife photographer Andrew MacDonald shares what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly extraordinary. AG have been safari experts and storytellers since 1991, using deep, local knowledge to craft tailor-made journeys filled with unforgettable wildlife, luxurious lodges, and meaningful connections. All you need to do is show up and soak it all in – knowing your trip is making a real difference. Ready to plan your dream safari? Let Africa Geographic guide the way. (03:26) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Why captive breeding won’t save wild parrots

Parrots, with their vibrant plumage, distinctive voices, and remarkable intelligence, have long captivated the human imagination. The popularity of parrots as pets has increased dramatically over the last decade, spurred on by social media and by the exotic pet trade’s hunger for rarity. As trade has increased, so too has commercial captive breeding of these birds. And yet some researchers are asking the controversial question: Does captive breeding help or hinder the conservation of the wild parrot populations?

According to the IUCN Red List, of the 398 known species of parrots, 18 are critically endangered, 39 are endangered, and 55 are vulnerable. Parrots are among the most threatened avian groups worldwide, and many parrot species are at risk of extinction.

Parrots in peril

Among Africa’s parrot species, the African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus) stands out as one of the most heavily trafficked birds in the world. Prized for its intelligence and mimicry, this species has suffered catastrophic declines due to illegal trapping and habitat loss. By some estimates, populations in parts of West Africa have dropped by over 90%. (Population strongholds remain in a few West African protected areas, such as Congo Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park). Despite its listing on CITES Appendix I, trade continues in many regions through loopholes and poor enforcement. Its close relative, the Timneh parrot (Psittacus timneh), once considered a subspecies, is also under severe pressure and now classified as Endangered. Other African parrots facing growing threats include the Cape parrot (Poicephalus robustus), South Africa’s only endemic parrot, which is Endangered due to habitat fragmentation and historical trapping, and the Rüppell’s parrot (Poicephalus rueppellii), which is increasingly targeted for trade in Namibia and Angola. While not as globally prominent as African grey parrots, species like the rosy-faced lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis), Fischer’s lovebird (Agapornis fischeri), and Meyer’s parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) are also impacted by wildlife trade, facing pressures from local trapping, habitat loss, and poorly regulated regional markets that continue to remove wild individuals despite captive breeding efforts. Without stronger protection and enforcement, several of these species risk being lost from the wild.

The current global protected area network only covers 10% of parrots’ total geographic range, according to a 2020 study. This lack of habitat protection adds urgency to discussions about potential conservation strategies.

The captive breeding debate

It is this dire situation that has led researchers to weigh up all options in the fight to save parrot populations, with their findings laid out in a recent publication. One approach is to question whether commercial captive breeding is successful in reducing pressures on wild birds. Historically, the overexploitation of wild parrots for the pet trade has led to drastic population declines in certain species, and conservationists aim to prevent such impacts from recurring. That is why researchers from the World Parrot Trust and World Animal Protection set out to investigate whether commercial captive breeding of parrots is a plausible intervention to address unsustainable trade. The researchers sought to determine whether breeding parrots in captivity would result in fewer birds being taken from the wild. They developed a set of conditions or prerequisites that must be met before one can justify the use of captive breeding as a conservation tool. The researchers then investigated whether these conditions were being met by reviewing and collating the scientific and grey literature for 16 parrot species currently traded as pets.

The study is important, as captive breeding is increasingly being promoted, sometimes by governments, sometimes by private interests, as a potential solution to the overexploitation of wild parrots. The idea is that if consumer demand can be met with legally bred birds, the incentive to poach wild individuals will decrease. It’s a “supply-side” approach, akin to farming rhinos to harvest their horns and reduce illegal trade in horn.

However, as the study itself notes, this premise is riddled with untested assumptions, and there’s very little empirical evidence showing that captive breeding reliably reduces pressure on wild populations, especially in the parrot trade. What’s more, there’s growing concern that the mere presence of legal markets provides cover for laundering wild-caught birds.

Captive breeding may fuel, not curb, trade in parrots

As researchers unpacked the evidence for whether captive breeding could offset demand on wild populations, they found that the captive-bred parrot trade is stimulating and facilitating trade in wild-sourced parrots, rather than hindering it.

One of the key considerations highlighted in the review is that parrots are high-maintenance creatures, and some species may take years to mature sexually. This challenges the assumption that breeding is a more cost-effective solution for traders – it is not more cost-effective than sourcing birds from the wild. For those illegally trading wild birds, illegal capture incurs few upfront costs.

Captive breeding costs include the authorities’ expenses for monitoring and regulation. Without this regulatory control, there would be no way to verify that breeding stock is not being taken from wild parrots.

Regulatory failure and laundering risks

For captive breeding to be considered as an effective conservation measure for protecting wild birds, the scenario would need to ensure no wild birds be removed from the wild for any reason. This criterion has been repeatedly broken by captive breeders removing wild birds for restocking or improving genetic breeding stock. Furthermore, wild birds are often captured or poached under the guise of captive breeding programs, an unintended consequence with a negative impact on wild populations. Commercial captive breeding would need to be governed by adequate regulatory measures to prevent laundering, and this level of control is often lacking in many countries.

Demand uncertainty and market gaps

The researchers also considered whether consumers preferred captive-bred parrots to wild-caught parrots (much like the question of whether farming of rhinos for their horns could prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn). They did not have enough data to conclude whether this held, but calculated that it could have a significant impact on the demand side of the pet trade. This gap was one of many significant knowledge gaps that need to be addressed before breeding is even considered as an effective conservation measure.

Even in cases where researchers identified that quick-breeding parakeets and cockatiels could be bred in sufficient quantity to supply and even exceed demand, this was only applicable within domestic, low-value markets. Furthermore, this scenario does not address illegal trade of rarer, high-value species.

There were also unintended consequences of captive breeding. The study also re-emphasises that legitimising the pet trade can stimulate demand on both wild and captive populations. The researchers warned that large-scale captive breeding may inadvertently boost wild capture, highlighting significant unknowns: productivity data, scale in Asian markets, and profitability under strong oversight remain lacking.

Illegal trade in parrots persists

Despite some captive‐breeding efforts, the illegal parrot trade remains rampant. In 2024, seizures included 60 parrots in Indonesia, 36 African greys in Nigeria, and over 12,000 in the DRC. Bolivia alone loses approximately 22,000 wild parrots annually to the pet trade. This underscores that trafficking continues unabated, with wildlife crime valued at roughly $20 billion/year. However, tackling enforcement has gained a digital boost: advanced AI methods (such as language-learning models and image-recognition models) are now capable of detecting illegal wildlife trade advertisements online, offering a promising new weapon against clandestine sales.

On another hopeful note, some source nations are taking serious steps: in April 2025, DRC’s Tshopo Province imposed a ban on wild-caught African grey parrots, a major blow to traffickers using river and airport routes. However, the efficacy of this measure will depend on consistent enforcement.

Rethinking conservation priorities

The authors conclude that the efficacy of captive breeding in reducing pet-trade pressures on wild populations is difficult to prove. They affirm that the conditions for it to work are rarely met and that, in many cases, captive breeding exacerbates the problem. Still, the fact that the conversation is happening at all is a signal of how deeply the commodification of wildlife has permeated conservation discourse.

The study recommends that decision-makers review captive breeding policies carefully before committing parrot species conservation to interventions with uncertain outcomes.

Furthermore, beyond considering captive breeding as a far-fetched conservation tool, the survival of parrots in the wild depends on meaningful habitat protection, strong law enforcement, and a societal shift away from treating wildlife as novelty pets.

Want to see parrots in their natural habitats on an African safari? Browse our African safari ideas here.

References

Vergara-Tabares DL, Cordier JM, Landi MA, Olah G, Nori J. Global trends of habitat destruction and consequences for parrot conservation. Glob Change Biol. 2020; 26: 4251–4262.
Davies, A., D’Cruze, N., & Martin, R. (2024). A review of commercial captive breeding of parrots as a supply-side intervention to address unsustainable trade. Conservation Biology, 38, e14338.

Further reading

Africa’s parrots are colourful characters that live in complex social groups. But they are among the most threatened of all bird families. Read more about Africa’s parrots here
A recent study examines how social media marketplaces facilitate the trafficking of endangered African grey parrots. Check out the study here
A birding trip into the Magoesbaskloof in Limpopo, South Africa, to find the Cape parrot – Africa’s rarest parrot. Read this account of finding Africa’s rarest parrot here

Mountain Zebra National Park

In the heart of South Africa’s Eastern Cape, where grasslands roll into ridges and the Karoo sun shines golden, there is a national park that rarely makes it onto bucket lists. It does not draw convoys of safari vehicles or Instagram fame. But Mountain Zebra National Park, just outside Cradock and three hours from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth), quietly delivers something far richer: space, solitude, and a conservation story worth telling.

Among boulder-strewn ridges and wind-swept grasslands, a quiet conservation triumph has taken root, where endangered zebras found sanctuary and cheetahs and lions returned to land that once forgot them. This is not the home of your typical African safari, but a lesser-known gem – home to four of the Big Five – worth exploring.

It starts with a zebra

It all began with a zebra, or more accurately, the Cape mountain zebra, a delicate, sure-footed cousin of the better-known plains variety. By the 1930s, hunters pushed this particular subspecies to the brink. A small number remained, hanging on in isolated pockets of the Karoo.

Recognising the urgency of the zebra’s situation, the South African government set aside a sliver of land in 1937, just over 1,700 hectares, as a refuge for the remaining animals. This modest gesture planted the seed for what would eventually become a full-fledged national park. Fast forward to today: the park now covers over 28,000 hectares and supports a thriving population of Cape mountain zebras.

Cape mountain zebras are unmistakably different from plains zebras (or its southern subspecies, Burchell’s zebra), which do not occur in this park. They come with a dewlap under the neck and solid stripes that do not run under the belly. They are also stockier and made for rocky areas.

Mountain kingdom

What sets South Africa’s Mountain Zebra NP apart is its scenery. Vast plains give way to thickets, slopes scattered with boulders, and the Bankberg Mountains to crown it all. For anyone with a love of space and stillness, this park is an invitation to slow down, revealing a kind of drama that unfolds at its own pace. The diverse terrain is ideal for mountain bikers, hikers, and 4×4 enthusiasts, while traditional safari experiences such as guided game drives and bush walks are also available.

Rising from 910 to a lofty 2,135 metres above sea level, Mountain Zebra NP offers a landscape as varied as it is spectacular. At its highest point, Bakenkop peaks at 1,954 metres, offering panoramic views that will leave you breathless in more ways than one.

The park’s southern reaches are particularly dramatic, where the rugged Bankberg mountains surge skyward, with altitudes ranging between 1,300 and 1,900 metres, and some rocky outcrops pushing beyond the 2,000-metre mark. The Bankberg escarpment particularly offers dramatic hikes and 4×4 routes that unveil shifting vistas, making the park both geologically fascinating and visually breathtaking. From the moment you pass through the entrance gate at 998 metres and ascend to the reception area at 1,215 metres, you’re immersed in a high-altitude haven sculpted by time and teeming with life.

Since 2012, the park has been actively restoring degraded land using erosion-control techniques and initiatives to clear invasive plants like prickly pear and jointed cactus. These efforts rejuvenate natural habitats and develop local employment and skills through public‑works programs, strengthening ecology and communities.

Wildlife in Mountain Zebra NP

This variation in terrain means game viewing is diverse, too. Black wildebeest and springbok graze on the plains along with other antelopes like red hartebeest, eland and blesbok. The mountain reedbuck and grey rhebok prefer the high mountain slopes along the Kranskop Loop, one of the park’s scenic routes. One might run into Cape buffalo in the protected thicket and wooded valleys. And a few fortunate travellers may even get to spot the park’s black rhinos.

Big cats were absent from this landscape for a long time, but in 2007, SANParks reintroduced cheetahs to the park, which historically occurred in the region. Since then, Mountain Zebra NP has been pivotal in restoring South Africa’s cheetah population. This rewilding effort began with two females from Samara Game Reserve, followed by two males to establish a breeding population. Mountain Zebra NP soon became a key player in the Cheetah Range Expansion Project (originally the Cheetah Metapopulation Project), an initiative by the Endangered Wildlife Trust to secure the future of cheetah populations confined to fenced reserves across the subcontinent. Cheetah numbers flourished rapidly, prompting early translocations to maintain genetic diversity and reduce inbreeding risk. Since then, the park has contributed more than 35 cheetahs to metapopulation efforts across Southern Africa, including rewilding sites in Malawi and Zambia.

Beyond its conservation science accolades, the national park offers guests a rare privilege: the opportunity to explore the Karoo wilderness on foot, witness these free-roaming cheetahs from a respectful distance, and observe the success of modern conservation in action firsthand. The experience is immersive and humbling: tracking these elusive cats using telemetry across sun-drenched ridges and valleys where they’ve reclaimed ancestral ground.

cheetah collar — Mountain Zebra National Park’s cheetahs are thriving and are an essential source of genetics for the cheetah metapopulation

The park is also home to lions, which were reintroduced in 2013, after an absence of 130 years from the area. At the time, three lions (one female and two males) were introduced to the park. In 2019, the area welcomed its first litter of cubs. This means that the park is home to four of the Big Five (including leopards – only elephants are absent).

This park is also an excellent destination for animals rarely seen in other wilderness areas, including elusive aardwolf, brown hyena and bushpig. Aardvark and porcupine are also seen on guided night drives through the park. And a lucky few have even spotted black-footed cats in the park.

Flora and birdlife in Mountain Zebra NP

The vegetation of Mountain Zebra NP is a rich mosaic of three distinct types: Karoo Escarpment Grassland, Eastern Upper Karoo, and Eastern Cape Escarpment Thicket. These represent elements of three major South African biomes: Grassland, Nama-Karoo, and Thicket. This blend supports high biodiversity, ecological resilience, and scenic variation. The grasslands, dominated by Merxmuellera disticha and hardy shrubs like Euryops annuus, are prone to natural fires and offer critical forage for large herbivores, especially on the park’s north-facing, sun-warmed slopes. The more arid Eastern Upper Karoo shifts with rainfall, alternating between grassy and shrubby dominance. The park boasts exceptional botanical richness with over 680 plant species recorded, including 13 Red Data species. Crucially, the vegetation types preserved here are among the least protected elsewhere in South Africa, making MZNP a vital stronghold for the long-term conservation of South Africa’s unique arid and transitional flora.

Because of the varied vegetation and habitat, including open plains, mountainous areas and thickets, birdlife delivers great variety. With over 270 species recorded, it is a birder’s paradise. Open plains, such as in the Rooiplaat area of the park, draw larks, pipits, blue cranes, secretarybirds, and bustards. The rocky slopes are prime territory for raptors like Verreaux’s eagle, martial eagle, and jackal buzzard. River thickets shelter smaller species. Drakensberg rockjumper and ground woodpecker are frequently seen around the park’s mountain cottages.

Things to do in Mountain Zebra NP

Beyond the animals you can find on self-drive or guided game drives, Mountain Zebra NP holds human history, too. Several rocky areas in the park protect ancient rock art. A guided walk to these sites reveals more than just pigment on stone. It is a glimpse into how people once lived in and related to this area.

There are also 4×4 routes for the adventurous, and two walking trails within the rest camp. Whether on foot or behind the wheel, the sense of space is always present.

On Saltpeterskop, one of the prominent kopjes in the park, British soldiers etched their names and a full-sized chessboard into the rock during the Anglo-Boer War. Legend has it they played long-distance games with comrades in Cradock using signal mirrors to communicate the moves. Guided walks up to this spot are on offer for fit travellers.

Game drives may yield incredibly rewarding sightings

Explore and Stay

The park’s accommodation suits a range of budgets and preferences – from camping under the stars to cosy family cottages. The newest addition, the rock chalets, is highly recommended for its views. If you are after solitude, skip the main rest camp and opt for a rustic mountain cottage or the charming historic guesthouse. Prefer camping? There’s a well-equipped site for tents and caravans too.

The Black Eagle Trail, leaving from the main rest camp, offers a 2.5km hike with exceptional views

Mountain Zebra NP may not draw massive crowds like the Kruger National Park, but that is part of its power. It offers a rarer chance to experience South Africa’s wild spaces without the bustle. To linger, to breathe, to watch a jackal pass through the twilight or to hear the first call of the birds at dawn.

Cape Mountain zebras are the park’s namesake and pride

Mountain Zebra NP is not about ticking species off a list. It’s about listening to wind in the grass, watching the earth breathe, and witnessing a wilderness that healed itself. In these high Karoo spaces, travellers don’t just visit nature. They walk inside a conservation story still being written.

Want to visit South Africa for your next African safari? Browse our top South Africa safaris here. Or check out our Big Five safaris around Africa here.

Further reading

From relaxed elephants to hard-working dung beetles, Addo Elephant National Park is another Eastern Cape park worth exploring. This conservation marvel is packed with wildlife, adventure, and history. Read more about Addo here
The zebra is a firm favourite among safari-goers because of their dazzling black and white stripes and familiar horse body language. Read more about the various zebra species here

THIS WEEK

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Leopard hunting exposé + Join a Zambian wildlife translocation safari this July

Experienced travellers regularly ask me to recommend one safari that makes an immediate, measurable conservation impact. This is it.

In late July, African Parks is translocating hundreds of zebras and wildebeest from Zambia’s Liuwa Plain to Kafue. Six Africa Geographic guests will join their crew of vets and rangers on the ground in Liuwa Plain to monitor herds, shepherd them towards capture bomas and load them into trucks. And they will witness a release in Kafue. There may also be veterinary procedures related to scientific research and the treatment of injuries, if necessary. You could join that VIP group and play your part. It will be noisy, dusty and fast-paced at times, but always deeply meaningful at conservation ground zero. I have joined this and other crews on similar missions – it’s exhilarating and immensely satisfying. Not only do you get your hands dirty and learn a great deal about conservation, but your safari price also directly finances these translocations.

And yes, you will have time for game drives and other epic safari activities – in Liuwa Plain and the astonishingly fantastic Busanga Plains, Kafue. In Liuwa Plain, your stay will be hosted by African Parks in a comfortable tented camp built specifically for this experience, while in Kafue, you’ll be hosted in a rustic safari bush camp. The short flights between Lusaka, Liuwa and Kafue will give you an epic birds-eye view of this vast biodiverse landscape.

As you read this, I am in Botswana – first the Central Kalahari and then the Okavango Delta, inspecting lodges and finding the magic that goes into our tailor-made safaris. This is one tough aspect of my job, but someone has to do it 😉

Thanks for reading this.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

For the first time in six years, an elephant has been spotted in Senegal’s Niokolo-Koba National Park – and not just any elephant, but Ousmane, a lone bull who is a forest and savannah hybrid. Captured by a camera trap in the moonlit hush of the forest, his unexpected cameo has reignited hopes that the park’s once-silent herds may return. With millions invested and boots on the ground, conservationists are starting discussions on rewilding a population that had all but vanished. Dare we hope? If the latest forest whispers are anything to go by, then definitely.

This week, we examine a report that details the extent to which trophy hunting is affecting leopards. And, we dive into the magical world of mountain gorillas, with everything there is to know about these gentle giants.

Happy exploring!

DID YOU KNOW?

Story 1

MOUNTAIN GORILLAS

The thrill of trekking for mountain gorillas in the astonishingly beautiful misty highlands of East Africa is not difficult to explain.

Story 2

LEOPARD HUNTERS

Trophy hunters are targeting Africa’s leopards. A new report reveals the true cost of killing the cats we can’t afford to lose

TRAVEL DESK:

2 SAFARI IDEAS

Exclusive African Parks conservation safari – 8 days – July 2025 – US$8,800pps

Dusty air, pounding hooves and the warm sun on your neck: this is what you can expect from this exclusive safari opportunity. Join Africa Geographic and African Parks on a hands-on conservation adventure this July, where you will be right at the central part of a wildebeest and zebra translocation operation. In Liuwa Plain, you’ll assist the AP capture team in monitoring and capturing herds. Stay in a purpose-built tented camp, meet park managers, and see the conservation process from the inside. Then, witness the dramatic release of translocated animals into one of Africa’s great wildernesses, Kafue. You’ll also enjoy immersive game drives, walking safaris, and serene nights at Ntemwa-Busanga Camp in Busanga Plains.

Spaces are limited – don’t miss out.

Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda – 10 days – US6,570pps

MAKE YOUR MARK FOR WILDLIFE CONSERVATION

Support our Collar a Lion, Save a Pangolin and Guarding Tuskers conservation campaigns – vital efforts protecting Africa’s most vulnerable species.

Lions have lost 75% of their population in 50 years. Pangolins remain the world’s most trafficked mammal. Fewer than 100 great tuskers roam the Earth. Your support on these campaigns helps conservation teams on the ground make a lasting impact. Learn more about our campaigns now.

WATCH: This powerful video, featuring HRH Prince William, reveals the courage, care, and hope driving the battle to save a species on the brink of extinction. Left orphaned and vulnerable after brutal poaching attacks, baby rhinos face a desperate fight for survival. But thanks to the fearless guardians at Kruger National Park and Care for Wild, these calves are given a second chance at life. Check out this snippet from BBC Earth’s Guardians. (10:32) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

The mountain gorilla: gentle giants

There are few wildlife encounters as profound or humbling as locking eyes with a mountain gorilla in its misty highland home while on an African safari. These great apes, one of four gorilla subspecies, share more than 98% of our DNA, and their human-like behaviour, deep social bonds and intelligent gaze create a powerful sense of connection. Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) live only in the cloud forests of the Virunga Massif and Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, in troops led by dominant silverbacks who mediate troop movements, resolve conflicts and protect their families. Watching them forage, play or care for their young in the wild is a privilege that leaves a lasting imprint on every traveller fortunate enough to witness it.

With fewer than 1,100 individuals remaining, mountain gorillas are classified as Endangered, their survival a hard-won conservation success built on community collaboration, veterinary care, research and tightly regulated tourism. Trekking to see these gentle giants has become the ultimate bucket list experience – a journey through emerald montane forests where mist clings to the canopy and every rustle might reveal a primate of extraordinary presence. It’s not just another wildlife sighting; it’s a soul-stirring communion with one of our planet’s most iconic species, making it a quintessential African safari and a testament to the power of sustainable, ethical travel.

“The thrill of trekking for mountain gorillas in the astonishingly beautiful misty highlands of East Africa is not difficult to explain. Quietly observing these gentle giants as they go about their day is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a privileged few, and to be treasured beyond compare. If you are lucky enough to exchange glances with one of the troop, you will become aware of that narrow genetic gap between our two great ape species. The exchange of recognition, of awareness, is apparent. This is not the heart-thumping primordial fear one experiences when a twitchy lion gives you the stare, or that adrenaline rush when that cantankerous old buffalo bull rises from the bluebush thicket and fixes you with his myopic glare. No, this is different. This is gentle to-and-fro communication at a spiritual level.”

~ Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

What’s in a name?

There are two gorilla species – the eastern gorilla (Gorilla beringei) and the western gorilla (Gorilla gorilla).

There are two subspecies of the eastern gorilla, namely the mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) and the eastern lowland/Grauer’s gorilla (Gorilla beringei graueri). There are two subspecies of the western gorilla, namely the western lowland gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla); and the Cross River gorilla (Gorilla gorilla diehli). Mountain gorillas, the focus of this article, are found in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).

Conservation status and distribution

The mountain gorilla population is estimated at 1,063 individuals, up from fewer than 900 individuals in 2010. This increase is primarily due to the cooperation from communities that live near mountain gorillas, NGOs that operate on the ground, and tourists, who pay in hard currency for the privilege of trekking to see mountain gorillas.

Mountain gorillas are found in two populations in Africa:

1. An estimated 604 individuals in the Virunga Massif – which includes Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda), Virunga National Park (DRC) and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (Uganda);
2. An estimated 459 individuals in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Uganda) were recorded in a 2018 census. A new census began in Bwindi in May 2025 and is still ongoing.

As a result of the above conservation successes, the mountain gorilla was reclassified in the IUCN Red List as ‘Endangered’ in 2018 (facing a very high risk of extinction), improved from its previous category of ‘Critically Endangered’ (facing an extremely high risk of extinction).

Major threats to mountain gorillas

Factors contributing negatively to mountain gorilla conservation status include poaching for bushmeat, the continuing political instability in parts of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), habitat loss/degradation, and the risk of disease transmission by humans, domestic animals and livestock. There is a distinct possibility that the subspecies could experience a 25% reduction in the next 20 years.

As of 2025, tourism in DRC’s Virunga National Park remains suspended due to ongoing armed conflict. Key access routes are closed, park staff have been evacuated, and gorilla trekking and other ecotourism activities have been halted in conflict zones.

Silverback in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Mountain gorilla habitat loss

The primary threat to mountain gorillas comes from forest clearance and degradation, as the region’s growing human population struggles to eke out a living. Conversion of land for agriculture and competition for limited natural resources, such as firewood, lead to varying degrees of deforestation. Also, the harvesting of charcoal, as a fuel source in cooking and heating, has also destroyed gorilla habitat.

The border between Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and community land

Diseases, immunity and survival

Gorillas are vulnerable to human diseases, and when coming into contact with humans, can pick up a variety of illnesses, from the common cold to Ebola, all of which can prove fatal.

Following the COVID‑19 pandemic, gorilla tourism protocols have been tightened to protect both humans and primates from disease transmission. Measures such as mask-wearing and increased distance rules have significantly reduced the incidence of respiratory illness in habituated gorilla groups.

As gorillas have not developed the necessary immunities, first-time exposure to an illness or virus that is relatively innocuous to humans may devastate an entire population. However, studies have found that mountain gorillas that are regularly habituated with researchers and tourists have survived better than unvisited gorillas; they benefit from the greater protection available in those areas and from regular monitoring. Increased survival is also largely due to better veterinary care of sick and injured gorillas.

Poaching and bouncing back

In recent years, there has been increased targeting of mountain gorillas for bushmeat and the pet trade. Gorillas can also be caught and harmed by snares set for other animals.

Fortunately, non-profit organisations such as Gorilla Doctors provide on-the-ground veterinary care to gorillas in their natural habitat, treating injuries from snares, fights, or other ailments. They also play a role in rescuing and rehabilitating orphaned gorillas. Their mandate is to monitor the populations of mountain and Grauer’s gorillas – the two subspecies that live in the Albertine Rift – and, when the life or well-being of an individual gorilla or family group is at stake, intervene.

Innovative community-based conservation projects also continue to thrive around gorilla habitats. Initiatives such as the rehabilitation and rewilding of orphaned gorillas are helping to support both wildlife and the local economy.

As a result, mountain gorilla conservation is one of Africa’s greatest wildlife success stories, with population numbers rising steadily thanks to decades of collaborative effort. This progress is the result of intensive monitoring, habitat protection, community-driven conservation, and carefully managed tourism that directly funds their protection.

Moving mountains

Mountain gorillas live for 35–40 years in the wild, in troops with home ranges that vary from three to 15 km². They typically move only about 500 metres per day, due to the mountainous terrain and readily available food. Male mountain gorillas usually weigh 195kg with an upright standing height of 168cm. Females stand at 100kg and 140cm. They live primarily on the ground but will climb sturdy trees in pursuit of food.

Mountain gorilla troop dynamics

Mountain gorillas live in troops of up to 20 individuals, made up of one adult male who is usually older than 12 years (often called a ‘silverback’ because of the silver fur on his back), a few adult females and their offspring of various ages. Some troops will have more than one mature male, but only one leader/alpha male. The subordinate male (often called a ‘blackback’, and typically 8–12 years old) plays a backup role and will assume the leadership role if the silverback dies. Both males and females tend to emigrate from their natal groups, with females leaving at an earlier age than males.

The silverback is the troop leader, making all the decisions, mediating conflicts, determining the group’s movements between feeding and resting/sleeping sites, and taking responsibility for the troop’s safety and well-being. The bond that a silverback has with his females forms the core of gorilla social life. Females seek relationships with males for mating rights and for protection against predators (primarily leopards) and outside males (which may kill young gorillas). If a mother dies or leaves the group, the silverback will often look after her abandoned offspring. Experienced silverbacks are known to remove poachers’ snares from the hands or feet of their group members.

Aggressive encounters between males and females in a troop are rare, but females can act aggressively towards each other (particularly if not related). Conflicts are most often resolved by threat displays intended to intimidate, including hooting, rising onto the legs, throwing of sticks and leaves, chest-beating, kicking with one leg, sideways running on all fours and thumping the ground with the palms.

Rival silverbacks from different troops have been known to kill each other during territorial battles, where they use their huge canines as effective weapons. When a silverback dies, his position in the group may be taken over by one of the younger group males, failing which a new silverback may join the group, often killing all of the infants of the dead silverback.

Mountain gorilla nests, food and reproduction

Mountain gorillas make nests on the ground for daytime resting and for sleeping at night. The nests are made of a loose pile of branches and leaves. Babies sleep with their mothers and start building their own nests when they are about three years old.

Mountain gorillas are vegetarians, eating leaves, stems, pith, and shoots, with fruit making up a small part of their diet. Protein in the form of insects and grubs makes up about 3% of the diet.

Mountain gorillas mate year-round, once they reach sexual maturity, which is at the age of 10 to 12 years for females and 11 to 13 years for males. The gestation period lasts 8.5 months, and females can give birth every four years.

Baby mountain gorillas are, like humans, vulnerable and dependent on their mothers for survival. Male gorillas are not active in caring for the young (unless the mother dies), but they do play a role in socialising them with other youngsters and protecting them from aggression within the group. Infants remain in contact with their mothers for the first five months, sleeping in the same nest and suckling at least once per hour during that time. After five months, infants begin to move away from their mothers, gradually gaining independence. By the third year, juveniles are weaned and sleeping in separate nests from their mothers.

Great communicators

Mountain gorillas use a variety of distinct vocalisations to communicate within their densely forested home. These include grunts and barks while travelling, screams and roars to signal alarm or warning, and rumbling belches of contentment during feeding and resting periods.

Want to see gorillas on your next African safari? Gorilla trekking has been described by many as a life-changing experience. Browse our top gorilla safaris here.

Gorilla trekking

Despite their size and strength, mountain gorillas are gentle, intelligent creatures whose lives revolve around complex social interactions, quiet routines, and deep familial bonds. Observing them in the wild reveals not only their physical grace but also their emotional depth, as well as how they nurture their young, resolve disputes, and express curiosity or contentment through subtle gestures. These moments of connection are what make gorilla trekking such an extraordinary experience: a rare opportunity to witness one of our closest living relatives living freely, on their own terms, in one of Earth’s last remaining montane rainforests.

The best and most practical places to go mountain gorilla trekking are in the dense, mountainous forests of Rwanda and Uganda. Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park offers the most accessible and luxurious experience, with well-maintained trails and high-end lodges, ideal for travellers short on time. Uganda provides a more immersive and adventurous option in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, while Mgahinga Gorilla National Park provides a quieter alternative with stunning scenery and fewer crowds.

For the truly intrepid, Virunga National Park in the DRC offers a raw and rugged trek (when open for trekking) – best check in with your safari expert before settling on a safari here. Each destination offers its own magic, whether it’s the ease and polish of Rwanda, the jungle depth of Uganda, or the edge-of-the-map thrill of the DRC.

Final thoughts

There is an uncomfortable paradox unfolding in the mountain gorilla conservation space, which highlights the role that humans play on both sides of the equation. On the one hand, humans pose the greatest threat to gorillas, and, at the same time, humans represent the most viable conservation solution.

Mountain gorilla populations are now slowly trickling upwards, thanks to the dedicated work of so many passionate people on the ground – from locals who live amongst these gentle giants to government conservation agencies, researchers, non-profit entities and paying tourists. Let’s savour this rare victory in the ongoing war to keep Earth’s charismatic species, in fact, all species, safe from extinction.

Further reading

Bwindi is the fairy-tale forest we dreamed about as children; it is also where you can meet and spend time with gentle mountain gorillas
To bring medical support to mountain gorillas, a group of veterinarians brave one of the world’s most dangerous national parks. Read more about Gorilla Doctors here
Mgahinga Gorilla NP, on the forested slopes of 3 extinct volcanoes in Virunga Conservation Area, is an important home to mountain gorillas. Read more about Mgahinga Gorilla NP here
Trekking through the ancient rainforests of Bwindi, Uganda to find mountain gorillas brings Ryan Biller face-to-face with a childhood dream. Read more about his journey walking with gorillas here
Virunga NP offers unparalleled biodiversity. Rain forests, gorillas, endemic birds, bubbling volcanoes, and safari favourites await. Learn about the wonders of Virunga
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity. Read more about Volcanoes here