Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023. ALL winners (winner, runners up and highly commended) must provide raw files of their winning submissions before our winners are announced.
This is Gallery 2 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023. ALL winners (winner, runners up and highly commended) must provide raw files of their winning submissions before our winners are announced.
This is Gallery 1 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.
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Mining Mana Pools + tragedy in Amboseli + Top 101 Photographer of the Year selection
A pride of lions has been speared to death in Kenya. The context surrounding this tragedy is important – so that we can direct our reactions with purpose and support those working hard to keep free-roaming lions safe:
Nine subadult lions broke into a livestock enclosure near Mbirikani town on the night of May 12th, killing 12 goats and a dog
Three of the lions were chased away and the remaining six were killed by angry villagers
Mbirikani is a settlement within Mbirikani Ranch – a wildlife conservancy in the greater Amboseli ecosystem – about 30km from Amboseli National Park
The area is unfenced and human-lion conflict is an ongoing issue, although 97% reduced since Big Life (who are based at Mbirikani) started a livestock compensation program in 2003
In a separate incident a few days prior to this, a 19-year-old lion known as ‘Loonkito’ was speared to death after he left the unfenced national park in search of food
In 2019, a lion mauled a man to death just outside the park, and in 2016 another lion was shot dead after attacking and injuring a local
The Governor of Kajiado County had this to say: “I would like to condemn this as a serious tragedy to us people who are pro-conservation, and as a community that has started to enjoy the benefits that go with conservation and wildlife. We are yet to fully establish what went wrong, but it is important for us to say that as a government, we support conservation and we condemn the act. I am sure that as a resilient community, a resilient people, we will overcome this.”
Is your creative side neglected? Check out our professional-led art safari and let Africa’s wildlife inspire you. Or take advantage of our incredible special offer and explore some of Kenya’s most iconic wild spaces. Contact our safari consultants soon so you don’t miss out!
Art Safari with Alison Nicholls – Timbavati – 7 days/6 nights – from ZAR60,150 pps
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger and channel it into artistry!
Fantastic special offer: Kenyan safari
Book your four-night stay at Mara Expedition Camp and only pay for three. And it gets better: why not add four nights at ol Donyo Lodge between Tsavo and Amboseli National Park? The same deal applies, and you have an eight-night safari for the price of six! Valid until the 14th of June. Contact us for enquiries.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that the oldest known cheetah ancestor came from a fossil found in the depths of the Silberberg Grotto in South Africa’s Sterkfontein caves? Scientists believe the animal lived over three million years ago and were larger but less speedy than our modern-day zippy cats.
I mention this because several cheetahs raced their way into our Top 101 selection for 2023’s Photographer of the Year competition. And what a collection it has turned out to be! The Big 5 all grace us with their presence, along with an abundance of iconic African wildlife and an eclectic collection of the weird and wonderful. Did your favourites make it in? You’ll have to peruse all FOUR galleries below to find out!
And now for a call to arms, so to speak. The Zimbabwean government recently announced that a local mining company had applied for an exploration licence for gas and oil. Their chosen land? The wilderness paradise of the Mana Pools ecosystem and surrounds. Though progress in the form of tearing up land and exploiting its resources seems to be an inevitable human pastime, are we seriously going to let it happen in one of Africa’s most precious wild spaces? Read the story below and then add your name to the petition.
Our 2023 Photographer of the Year entrants share their thoughts on having their images selected for our weekly galleries.
“Thx a lot for featuring a piece of my work in one of the weekly galleries! I’m honored that you reckon it worthy of showing! There are amazing submissions, I’m proud and happy about all those photographers sharing the passion for our beautiful world and in this case, particularly Africa!” – David Heucke
“Thank you so much…”Groom with a View”!..I wish I had your way with words!” – Turgay Uzer
“Thank you so much. Love this contest every year.” – Dylan Lee
“Thank you so much for the wonderful news and inclusion of one of my favourite photos in your weekly gallery. The quality of entrants this year seems to be a step above the already high standards of the past, so I really feel like I am part of a very select group and am truly honoured.” – Dirk Uys
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 3.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 4.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.
Shalom Mining has applied for permission to explore Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools for oil and gas, according to a recent announcement by the Zimbabwean government. The region is a designated World Heritage Site, and the application has been met with local and international condemnation.
Mining operations threaten the vast and fragile ecosystem of Mana Pools and surrounding wilderness areas. Photo: Matt Parvin
In a notice in the Zimbabwe Gazette dated the 28th of April, 2023, the Ministry of Mines and Mining Development revealed that Shalom Mining Corporation Private Limited (Shalom Mining) had applied to explore mining potential in the Zambezi. The exploration license – if granted – will allow the Zimbabwean company access to 130,000 hectares of wilderness habitat.
The proposed mining area falls mainly in Hurungwe Safari Area but will also include a section of Mana Pools National Park
Available information suggests that the exploration area falls mainly under Hurungwe Safari Area but will also encroach into a small section of Mana Pools National Park. The national park is part of an enormous, connected ecosystem that extends over some 1.7 million hectares and includes multiple safari areas and Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Farai Maguwu, the executive director of Zimbabwe’s Centre for Natural Resource Governance, has warned that mining in this region could result in an “ecological disaster”.
“It is very offensive to anyone who cares about Zimbabwe, nature, and conservation…it’s a piece of land that is of global significance…it has been recognised globally, and the government of Zimbabwe has committed itself, which means it produces reports every year on the status of conservation of that heritage site,” he said.
As per Zimbabwean law, formal objections to the application must be submitted by the 19th of May, 2023.
Legal stakeholders are encouraged to submit their formal objection (outlining their involvement in the area and the likely economic impact) in writing to the Mining Affairs Board addressed as follows:
To: The Secretary
Mining Affairs Board
Private Bag 7709
Causeway.
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Final weekly selection + epic travel ideas + Uganda’s secret valley
Lizz and I were walking the dogs a few days ago when a group of rutting impala bachelors came skittering through the receding autumnal woodland. Some with clacking horns locked as they jostled on the go, others snorting and growling loudly with exuberant energy. We stood quietly, our dogs entranced, as two grappling gladiators hurtled towards us with locked horns, seemingly blind to the world – total dedication to the cause of natural selection. They shot past a few meters away and melted into the bushveld. Sharing silent smiles, we resumed our evening stroll.
Just a gentle reminder that your place in this limited-availability rhino conservation safari (subsequently sold out) is waiting for you. This is a genuine conservation program – not a faux clipboard pantomime. Opportunities like this with responsible operators do not come around often; my advice if you would like to participate in a veterinary rhino program is to contact our safari experts via the prompts in the above link. Safari njema 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Have you been dreaming about looking deep into the eyes of a gorilla in the forests of Rwanda or wanting to play your part in rhino conservation in South Africa? Chat with our expert consultants for all your safari desires.
Gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda – 3days – From US$ 1,970pps
Rwanda’s world-famous Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa. This safari presents the perfect opportunity for intimate encounters with endangered mountain gorillas and enthralling sightings of endemic golden monkeys, flashy Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric-looking chameleons. Check out the link above for a detailed day-by-day itinerary of this life-changing adventure.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
True to form, our photographers delivered en masse for our final weekly selection in the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 competition. The last rush of entries was so spectacular that we are able to treat you to a trilogy of galleries this week, each one telling a different, unique story of Africa.
It is a bittersweet moment for teamAG when entries close for the year, and I think I can speak for all of us when I say that looking through the snapshots is the highlight of our week. I would like to take a moment to thank everyone who shared their photographic artistry with us and – by extension – the rest of the world. Every one of you is appreciated.
And now, of course, comes the painstaking process of selecting our finalists, and I can assure you that this is no easy task. Keep an eye out in the following weeks as we whittle our way down to this year’s top images.
Finally, with its lush forests, gently rolling savannas and vibrant papyrus swamps, all beneath the looming shadow of the Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda’s Semliki Valley safari experience is unlike any other in Africa. Set in the heart of the Rift Valley, at the geological crossroad of Central and East Africa, it is the ideal destination for the consummate nature lover. You can read all about it in our final story of the week below.
Story 4 https://africageographic.com/stories/semliki-valley/
SEMLIKI VALLEY
Semliki Valley is a land of extraordinary wild beauty, dense forest, vast savannah and magical hot springs – and Uganda’s best kept secret
In our forum this week
Kate Church from African Wildlife Vets (AWV) discusses snaring – one of the greatest threats to wildlife across Africa. She commends those working hard to remove snares found in protected spaces and praises the conservation teams that dedicate their time to saving and treating snare victims.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 3 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3.
In the heart of Africa’s Albertine Rift lies a geological crossroad, where primordial forces have given rise to a land of extraordinary wild beauty. In the folds of Uganda’s Semliki Valley, beneath the shadows of ancient mountain peaks, time seems to stand still. Here, the great forests of Central Africa gradually give way to the rolling savannahs of the East, creating a zone of transition that epitomises the best of both worlds.
Semliki Valley
The Semliki Valley is one of Uganda’s more remote wilderness regions, unspoilt by mass tourism and considered by many (especially avid birders) to be one of the country’s best-kept safari secrets. It runs the short length of the Semliki River from where it enters the country until it empties into Lake Albert and encompasses two distinctive protected areas: the Semuliki National Park and the Semliki Wilderness Reserve. The contrasting characters of the two wilderness regions – from ancient and eldritch forest to gentle savannah – ensure an astonishing array of biodiversity and centre the Semliki Valley experience around a profound appreciation of nature’s marvels.
A baboon spider photographed deep in the forests of Semliki Wildlife Reserve
Semuliki National Park lies on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), contiguous with the northernmost corner of Virunga National Park. Semuliki protects the easternmost extension of the mighty Ituri Forest, which stretches more than 500km to the Congo River and represents the only true tract of lowland tropical forest in East Africa. The landscape is dominated by Ugandan ironwood trees (Cynometra alexandri), interspersed with lush palm fronds and verdant ferns. Juxtaposed against this backdrop of green, a kaleidoscope of over 350 butterfly species of every size and hue flutter between shafts of light, and the forest is alive with a cacophony of birdsong. The dark woods are broken by startling open patches of papyrus swamps, the dramatic scenery of the Sempaya Hot Springs, and views of the glacier-tipped Rwenzori Mountains.
In contrast to the perpetual twilight of the national park, Semliki Wilderness Reserve (formerly Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve) is a breath of light and air. But for small patches of forest, most of the reserve is a mosaic of dry savannah grassland, riparian woodland and Borassus palms. Herds of elephant, buffalo and antelopes gather on the plains beneath the looming peaks of the Blue Mountains in neighbouring DRC to the west and the dramatic slopes of the Rift Valley escarpment to the east.
While names like Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks command the safari scene in Uganda, the Semliki Valley is perfectly positioned between the two – offering the unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a land before time. The region’s setting at the intersection between key habitats guarantees an electrifying combination of weird, wonderful, endemic, and unusual creatures.
The wetlands of Semuliki National Park
All aflutter in Semliki
While the national park and the wildlife reserve are home to some of the more iconic mammal species on the safari checklist, the Semliki Valley is best known for its remarkable birding. Uganda is one of Africa’s prime birding destinations, and many of the country’s most exciting species can be found in the west, where forest meets savannah. Over 435 bird species have been recorded in Semuliki National Park alone, including many Guinea-Congo forest biome species not found elsewhere in East Africa. Congo serpent eagles haunt the dark understories of the forest, while the lyre-tailed honeyguide’s crescendo taunts scores of frustrated birders every year.
An assortment of hornbills, including the red-billed dwarf, black dwarf and black-casqued hornbills, are generally considerably more conspicuous, and the nkulengu rail is an invariable highlight, as are the shoebills of nearby Lake Albert. Red-throated bee-eater, spot-breasted ibis, Oberländer’s ground thrush, piapiac, blue swallow, snowy-headed and blue-shouldered robin-chats, red-rumped tinkerbird, yellow-throated and western nicators, Bate’s nightjar – the “specials” bird list of the Semliki Valley is enough to have aviphiles itching to reach for their binoculars.
A shoebill photographed in Semliki Valley
Down to earth
If visitors can tear their gaze away from the feathered extravaganza, mammal life in Semliki is fascinating. Forest rarities like the fire-footed rope, red-legged sun and Beecroft’s flying squirrels share their arboreal space with grey-cheeked mangabeys, mantled guerezas, red colobuses, red-tailed monkeys and De Brazza’s monkeys. The elusive water chevrotain (also known as the fanged deer) lurks in the undergrowth along with a host of duiker species, including the bay duiker.
Red-tailed monkeys are one of the many primates that roam the forests of Semliki
Encounters with the larger residents like buffalo and elephant (including both forest and savannah varieties) are intermittent, and lions are more commonly heard than seen. However, large herds of Ugandan kob are ubiquitous, especially in Semliki Wildlife Reserve. Both protected areas are home to populations of chimpanzees, and while they are less habituated than those of nearby Kibale Forest, chimpanzee walks are among the activities on offer. The reserve’s chimpanzees are of particular interest to the scientists of Indiana University’s Semliki Chimpanzee Project, as they survive in an unusually arid habitat.
Mantled guerezas perch in the forest canopy
Bubbling with excitement
The Sempaya hot springs are situated not far inside Semuliki National Park and are accessed via a short boardwalk that runs through the forests. As the park’s most famous attraction, the two springs are a testament to the region’s rich geological history and hold a deep cultural significance to the local Bamaga people.
Bitende: the “male spring” at Sempaya Hot Springs
The “male spring” – called Bitende – is a calm pool some 12 metres in diameter, while the “female spring” – called Nyasimbi – spews boiling water and steam into the air (perhaps the less said about that difference, the better). The Bamaga people believe their female ancestors live beneath Nyasimbi and their male ancestors beneath Bitende. Annual rituals are carried out at the springs to appease these spirits.
The warm waters are also used for cooking, a tradition in which visitors can participate. Alongside the springs, mineral-encrusted swamps attract forest-dwelling mammals searching for au natural dietary supplements.
Nyasimbi: the “female” hot spring
Explore Semliki & stay
Want to go on a safari to Semliki Valley? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
With its relatively low densities of large mammal species, Semliki Valley is not the best choice for first-time safari-goers. However, for birders and those with a genuine capacity to appreciate Africa’s more unusual offerings, there are few destinations as delightfully unspoilt and jaw-droppingly scenic. Moreover, a few days spent in Semliki can easily be combined with gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest or Mgahinga National Parks, chimpanzee trekking in Kibale National Park and a Big 5 safari in Queen Elizabeth or Murchison Falls National Parks.
Much of the exploration of the Semliki Valley is done on foot, with both the national park and reserve offering guided trails of varying lengths and difficulty levels. As such, a sturdy pair of comfortable walking boots is essential! These walks can be tailored to particular interests (a birding or primate focus, for example) or simply to take in the majesty of the surroundings. Game drives and night drives are conducted in Semliki Wildlife Reserve, along with boat cruises on the crystalline waters of Lake Albert.
Visitors can explore Lake Albert by boat
Budget bandas (basic huts) are operated by the Uganda Wildlife Authority in both Semuliki National Park and Semliki Wildlife Reserve. The latter also has one privately run luxury lodge. The region experiences rain throughout the year, but during the two peak rainy seasons from March to May and September to December, many parts of the park are flooded and become entirely inaccessible.
Whether walking the paths of the dense forests or admiring the savannah scenery, exploring the remote Semliki Valley is an experience unlike any other in Africa. It encompasses the wildest aspects of Central Africa and the convenience and beauty of East Africa, making it the perfect destination for novice and experienced travellers alike.
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Rhino conservation safari, jaw-dropping photographs + the world’s largest antelope
Today I bust a myth and recommend a life-changing safari experience.
One claim I often hear from those who feel we should cull elephants is that they (elephants) destroyed the Chobe riverine forests. This straight-line logic is misleading. Chobe’s riverine forests were decimated by historic logging of hardwoods – especially Rhodesian teak Baikiaea plurijuga – for mine timber, railway sleepers, paper and furniture. If you bought converted railway sleeper furniture, you have played a role, albeit unknowingly. Commercial logging began prior to World War I and continued to 1994. The riverine areas were most hammered because the river was used to transport the wood. The larger lumber mills along the river closed down in the mid-1950’s because most of the large riverine trees had been removed, but smaller-scale harvesting continued. What remains after that devastating period of waste and mismanagement is an irreparably damaged ecosystem that is susceptible to fire and elephants, with recruitment almost impossible due to impalas and other herbivores feasting on saplings. So there you have it. As the linked report states, elephants are now PART of the problem, but they are not the cause, and culling them is unlikely to cure the damaged ecosystem.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Have you always wanted to experience the culturally diverse tribes of Ethiopia or perhaps explore the world-famous open savannahs of Hwange? No matter your safari requirements, our passionate travel experts are on hand to offer the best advice.
Culturally diverse tribes of Ethiopia – 10 days – from US$ 2,740pps
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This ten-day cultural experience offers the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs and practices of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Entries for the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 are now closed, and we are racing towards the nail-biting moment when our judges select their favourite images. As is always the case towards the end of our annual competition, entries have been flooding in, and this week we are treating you to two galleries of magnificent images! I highly recommend taking some time to let the beauty of these pictures sink in – I promise they will brighten your day.
And speaking of brightening the day, our final story of the week details one of my encounters with Mary, the eland of Talek Gate in the Maasai Mara. She became something of a fixture during my time in Kenya and taught me a thing or two about the curious nature of eland. You can read more about Mary (and the world’s largest antelope in general) below.
Finally, I haven’t forgotten to offer up a fact this week. But in light of Simon’s message about our rhino conservation safari, this one feels appropriate. Did you know that the bids for the world’s largest rhino farm auction closed on Monday? There were no viable bids. Apparently, there are still private talks in progress, the results of which are due to be announced at the end of today. The lives of some 2,000 white rhinos – around 8% of the remaining population – hang precariously in the balance. As does the future of private rhino ownership.
Story 3 https://africageographic.com/stories/eland/
ELAND
The eland is the largest antelope on Earth. Somewhat tricky to spot, ticking one off your African safari list is rewarding
Our Mara safari
AG safari client Lex Van Vught recently returned from his stay at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in the Mara North Conservancy of the Maasai Mara. Here is what he had to say about his experience:
“Our second stay at the Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp was as excellent as our first, this time not in peak season. We actually now prefer February, as major sightings attracted a maximum of 10 game-viewing vehicles instead of the 50+ we experienced in July/August. The only negative is that there are no wildebeest crossings, but having seen these in the past, we just loved the tranquillity and solitude. Cat sightings were still spectacular and photographic opportunities abounded. We also recorded 161 bird species. As before, the service levels, food and friendliness at the camp made our stay a joy. All arrangements by Africa Geographic were perfect.”
WATCH: Rhino conservation in action – to whet your appetite for the limited-availability safari opportunity Simon describes above (03:28). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.
Sitting in my safari vehicle, on the back end of very little sleep and with the prospect of a rather long night ahead, I waited patiently at the Talek Gate entrance to the Maasai Mara National Park for the grinding wheels of bureaucracy to spit out my ticket. Shamefully, I had my head buried in my phone and was paying very little attention to my surroundings. That changed the instant something breathed soft, warm air into my right ear. My head whipped around, and I found myself face to face with a deep brown, gentle eye fringed with soft eyelashes. It was Mary, the tame Talek eland, and she had come looking for a snack.
Eland: the world’s largest antelope
Though often admired from afar, few people have the opportunity to observe an eland in close proximity. It is one thing to know that they are the largest antelope in the world, but quite another to have the evidence presented at eye level. Sitting in my raised Land Rover (on a cushion that I might see over the front), the eland cow’s shoulder stood above mine and, had the impulse struck, I could easily have leant forward and kissed her on the nose.
Eland antelope are massive animals, standing just under two metres tall and with some more imposing specimens weighing over a ton. The name “eland” comes from the Dutch word for “moose” (or “elk”), and the comparison is a fair one. Though moose stand slightly taller at the shoulder, eland are bulkier, and the two species are closely matched in mass. Eland belong to the spiral-horned antelope tribe, Tragelophini, along with kudu, nyala and bushbuck but are the only members of the Taurotragus genus. Genetically, they are closely related to the greater kudu and, on one occasion, were observed to interbreed, producing a sterile, hybrid offspring. (Interestingly, eland were reported to interbreed with domestic cattle relatively frequently in Zimbabwe during the late 1800s and early 1900s – consistently producing sterile calves.)
Like the other members of their tribe, eland are handsome antelope with pronounced sexual dimorphism. Their colour varies depending on geographic region, but the cows are usually shaded between ochre and tan, occasionally with faint white stripes running down the flanks. The bulls are darker in colour, almost a deep blue at the height of their dominance. Mature males sport pendulous dewlaps, which may play a role in thermoregulation (and possibly social signalling; see below). While both sexes carry a set of twisting horns, those of the cows are usually longer, and the bulls are substantially more robust.
Despite their considerable bulk and impressive helical horns, eland are generally retiring animals and usually move away at the sight of approaching humans. They are also the slowest antelope, relying on their bulk to intimidate potential predators and protect the more vulnerable calves and adolescents. Yet, for all their unwieldy weight, an adult can still leap over two metres into the air from a standing start (a fact that briefly crossed my mind when Mary gave me the side-eye for refusing her food).
Eland rely on their intimidating size to ward predators off from their young
A giant of giants
There are two recognised species: the common eland (Taurotragus oryx) and the giant eland (Taurotragus derbianus – also known as Lord Derby’s eland). As one might have guessed, the giant eland is slightly larger than the common eland on average. However, the difference is minor, and the name refers more to the size of the giant eland’s horns. The two animals fall into roughly the same weight class, making the distinction between the largest and second-largest antelope more a matter of pedantry.
Common eland occur on open plains throughout much of southern Africa to Ethiopia and the arid zones of South Sudan. Giant eland are divided into eastern and western populations, the former in Cameroon, the Central African Republic and South Sudan and the latter between Mali and Senegal. Visually, the two species are tricky to distinguish, but the giant eland has slightly longer legs and more vivid markings.
The eland is the largest genus of antelope in the world
Quick eland facts
Common eland
(Taurotragus oryx)
Giant eland
(Taurotragus derbianus)
Height (shoulder)
Males: 160cm
Males: 180cm
Females: 140cm
Females: 130cm
Mass
Males: 500-900kg
Males: 400-1,200kg
Females: 340-445kg
Females: 300-600kg
Social structure
Gatherings of up to 100 (consisting of smaller herds)
Small herds of around 20 individuals
Gestation
Nine months
Nine months
IUCN conservation status
Least Concern
Vulnerable
Eland are nomadic (they do not defend territories) and crepuscular, resting in the shade during the day’s heat. They are predominantly browsers but may take advantage of the nutritious grass growth at the start of the rainy season. Eland are social animals, with males, females and immature animals each forming their own separate herds with a linear hierarchy. Older bulls are sometimes solitary.
Older eland bulls are often solitary
Clickity clack – don’t talk back
The surprisingly loud sound heard when eland walk has long confounded biologists and the authors of reference books. Some suggested that the click came from the two halves of the hooves splaying open and snapping together when the foot lifted, while others concluded the sound was more likely joint-related. Today, the commonly accepted explanation is that the clicks are produced as tendons slide over the bones of the front carpal joint. Furthermore, though the joints click while the animals walk, male eland also elicit the sound while standing by lifting and lowering their front legs. So, what is the purpose of this peculiar anatomical anomaly?
The answer appears to be that the clicks are part of a complex system of social signalling between males, designed to intimidate rivals while avoiding physical conflict unless necessary. Bro-Jørgensen and Beeston (2015) examined several features, and behavioural traits of 280 male eland observed over eight years. They found that the frequency of loud “knee”-clicks indicated body size and social status. In other words, the deeper and louder the click, the larger and more intimidating the male.
In addition, they identified several other “status badges” – “long-lasting, but reversible, signals of dominance”. In eland, these include a dense growth of dark fur on the face, which forms a face mask that varies depending on the individual’s social status. The dark masks and thick facial fur characterise dominant bulls but regress if that animal loses status or hierarchy. The dewlap size may also serve a similar function, but this has not yet been confirmed.
Captive male eland have been observed to enter into phases of intermittent heightened aggression similar to musth cycles in elephants. This is termed “ukali” in eland and is probably linked to raised testosterone levels, which may physically manifest in darker fur colour and increased hair growth. Similarly, this could relate to the intensity of the clicks because androgen hormones increase muscle mass and strength, and thus the acoustic frequency of the sound produced. Combined, these characteristics serve as signals to rival males.
Eland form separate herds, each having its own linear hierarchy
Eland and people (beyond Mary)
The eland features heavily in the folklore of many African tribes, especially the San people of southern Africa, who frequently included paintings of the animals in their rock art. There are several myths involving the eland, which often represent good fortune, freedom, courage and self-sacrifice. They are also closely associated with the sun, probably due to their light colouring, and were sometimes kept in homesteads for milk and meat. If the milk of a cow was ever used to treat a malnourished human baby successfully, the cow was transported with a guard of honour back into the wild and released as a show of gratitude.
Eland are docile animals that tame easily. The females produce milk with a higher fat and protein content than cows. These factors, combined with their innate resistance to many indigenous diseases and parasites, made them attractive production animals for homestead or small-scale farming operations, some of which still exist in South Africa and Russia.
Common eland are currently not endangered, and the most recent population assessment conducted by the IUCN in 2016 estimated that between 90,000-110,000, mature individuals remain across their range. Giant eland are listed as “Vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List, and their numbers are believed to be declining. Habitat loss, snaring and poaching for bushmeat represent the most significant threats to remaining populations. At last estimate, there were thought to be 8,400 to 9,800 individuals remaining.
The eland features heavily in the folklore of many African tribes
Where to find eland
Though widely distributed throughout much of southern and East Africa, the antelope usually occur at low densities and can be surprisingly tricky to find. A visit to Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, Etosha National Park in Namibia or Nyika Plateau in Malawi will offer the best odds of encountering them in the wild. They are also abundant in the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem.
Africa is a land of giants. With behemoths like elephants, giraffes and rhinos, the shy eland is often dwarfed by their more iconic presence. But as my close encounter with Mary reminded me (albeit in an unusual situation), they are magnificent animals in their own right.
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Breath-taking images + the majesty of De Hoop Nature Reserve
A quick (true) story. A few years ago, a young couple requested our help to design the perfect gorilla trekking safari in Uganda. We did just that. They took our itinerary and ignored us from then on – conducting research with the assistance of online technology to reduce the package cost by a few hundred Dollars by choosing different accommodation – about 40 km away from our suggested lodge. On the day of their gorilla trek, their transfer to the gorilla trekking centre in Buhoma (Bwindi) took 4 hours. That road is a nightmare after rain and it often rains in that part of the world. They missed their trek – the permits cost $750 each.
The mix of passion, experience and empathy that goes into building the perfect safari is what STILL separates human safari consultants from algorithms. If you think that technology reduces CONSUMER costs, think again. Can you think of ANY service industry taken over by software where you have benefited via reduced costs? Perhaps it’s the feeling of being in control. We are interfacing with billion-dollar software that gobbles up other people’s data which it uses to direct us to an affiliated business. How much control do we really have? Technology is good for many things – as we all know. BUT whether you should outsource your remote-Africa safari decisions to algorithms is up for debate. I am keen to hear your thoughts.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Ready to book your next bucket-list safari in Kenya or Uganda? Chat with our safari experts, and let’s get you out into Africa…adventure awaits!
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6day/5nights – From US$ 3,380 pps
You will start this Uganda safari by exploring the stunning biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens before seeking out the world-famous tree-climbing lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park. From there, explore Bwindi National Park – trekking mountain gorillas and discovering the Batwa culture.
Maasai Mara migration season safari – 7days – from US$ 4,585 pps
Now’s your chance to witness the spectacle of the Great Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara as vast herds of wildebeest and zebra plunge through rivers, dodge predators and gallop across the plains. We recommend securing your spot on this seven-day safari between July and October, when the migration is in full swing.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that elephant calves are born with tusks? They are deciduous teeth (“milk teeth”) that grow to around 5cm and then fall out when the elephant is about a year old, to be replaced by a permanent set. This adorable fact often goes unnoticed because they are small and difficult to see for the first few months. But if you look closely at a particularly touching image from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you may just glimpse some tiny tusks peeping out beneath the trunk of a genuinely delightful baby forest elephant.
Precious offspring feature heavily this week, contrasting beautifully with spectacular displays of Africa at its most raw. From curious cephalopods and near misses to gentle light and scenes of agrestic simplicity, the photographers have once again excelled themselves. Entries close on the 30th of this month, so this is your last chance to submit your finest images!
Our second story of the week will take you on a journey to the magnificent De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa. This haven of soft white dunes, azure waters, unique vegetation and endangered wildlife is one of the country’s conservation success stories. Read all about it below and then add it to your list of must-visit destinations.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Not too far from Cape Town in the Overberg region of South Africa, near the southernmost tip of Africa, lies a protected haven of sand dunes, long white beaches, beautiful mountains and 70km of spectacular, pristine coastline. Here, a marine reserve stretches 5km into the ocean, where dolphins surface and whales breach and play. De Hoop Nature Reserve is a world apart from the bright city lights.
Inland, away from the coast, this stunning 34,000-hectare reserve is a UNESCO Ramsar World Heritage Site, rich in biodiversity, home to an array of unique and rare wildlife. Although it is not known as one of Africa’s best safari destinations, De Hoop is a favourite destination for hikers, cyclists, bird watchers, and whale watchers.
Once upon a time
Thousands of years ago, Stone Age people hunted wildlife in what is now De Hoop Nature Reserve, followed by Late Stone Age hunter-gatherers who lived off the land and coastal resources. Before the arrival of Europeans, the nomadic Khoisan or Khoekhoen roamed the inland plains. (Today, carefully preserved artefacts from this era are displayed at the tourist information centre at the main entrance.) On guided walks, one can even visit the middens, where the indigenous inhabitants of the southern coast, known as Strandlopers, combed the beaches and consumed shellfish for hundreds of years. The Overberg region was colonised in the early eighteenth century, and over the next 100 years, it became known for sheep farming, horse and cattle breeding, and grain farming.,
The Cape Provincial Administration bought the De Hoop farm in 1956, and De Hoop Nature Reserve was proclaimed in 1957. The further acquisition of land enlarged this. Initially, the reserve served as a wildlife farm, where rare and endangered species, such as bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, were bred for restocking. Since the early 1970s, though, the objective of De Hoop has been the conservation of this unique coastal region, and in 1986 a Marine Protected Area was proclaimed off its coast, contributing to the conservation of the region’s coastal marine resources.
De Hoop hosts a diverse number of species, including beach-trodding eland
Wildlife and conservation success in De Hoop
De Hoop’s varied habitat supports a diversity of wildlife. The reserve hosts 86 mammal species, including the rare bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, eland, grey rhebok, baboons, yellow mongoose and caracals, rivaling some of Africa’s best safari destinations. Lucky visitors may even spot the occasional Cape leopard. And there are many ways for visitors to De Hoop to get out and enjoy this local wildlife – whether through traditional game drives in a vehicle, guided mountain bike rides or hikes. Cycling past the plentiful herds of eland and bontebok and walking among the zebras is an experience not to be missed.
This experience is all the more precious as De Hoop (along with a neighbouring conservancy) is now home to a slowly growing population of endangered Cape mountain zebra. This achievement is no small feat considering their near extinction at the beginning of the 20th century, after hunting and habitat loss reduced the population to less than 60 individuals. But conservation efforts by local reserves, national parks and landowners helped bolster numbers, and their story is now one of South Africa’s most successful conservation stories. The population established at De Hoop in the 1960s contributed to their survival, and today their numbers in South Africa have grown from under 100 in the 1950s to 1,200 animals by 2000.
A healthy population of Cape mountain zebras call De Hoop home
The bontebok in the reserve share a similar history. The bontebok, a sub-species of blesbok, was once so endangered due to excess hunting, agricultural encroachment and competition with domestic stock for forage and water that only 17 individuals remained by the 1800s. Drastic intervention to save them from extinction in 1931 led to the establishment of the nearby Bontebok National Park (near Swellendam). By 1969, the bontebok population number 800 strong, and today the population hovers between 2,500 and 3,000. While not abundant, the bontebok’s future is considered secure (although the bontebok is still listed as vulnerable on the IUCN’s Red List). A current headcount of 308 of these antelope roams De Hoop – more than just a glimmer of hope for a species that was once nearly wiped out.
Bontebok – a subspecies of blesbok – are now thriving in De Hoop
The abundant plant kingdom of De Hoop
De Hoop forms part of the Cape Floral Kingdom – the world’s smallest and most threatened plant kingdom. Fynbos, confined mainly to nutrient-poor soils in the winter rainfall areas of the Western Cape, dominates this kingdom. De Hoop is important for conserving lowland fynbos, as this is the largest area conserving this rare vegetation type. Of all the approximately 1,500 fynbos species found here, 108 are rare or threatened, 34 are endemic and found nowhere else in the world, and incredibly, 14 species are so newly discovered that they have yet to be scientifically examined and described.
Taking a hike on one of the inland trails, visitors find themselves knee-high in fynbos, bathed in fragrance, and surrounded by shades of yellow, coral, pink, purple and green – including heath-like ericas, wiry reed-like restios, and geophytes that store moisture in their fleshy underground bulbs.
Lush rolling hills of fynbos dominate the reserve
Winged wonders of De Hoop
The De Hoop wetlands are internationally recognised as Birdlife International Important Bird and Biodiversity Area, and over 260 species of resident and migratory birds are found here, including flamingos, African black oystercatchers, great white pelicans, migrant wading birds, African fish eagles, endemic southern boubous and colourful malachite sunbirds.
The reserve is also home to a newly established colony of endangered African penguins – another conservation success story. After BirdLife South Africa partnered with CapeNature and SANCCOB to create a new breeding colony for African penguins by constructing a predator-proof fence in 2018 and introducing 148 juvenile penguins to the colony site, more penguins started spontaneously arriving at the site in mid-2022. In late 2022, the first pair of chicks was recorded at the colony – a promising prospect for the future success of the colony.
View the breeding colony of Cape vultures from a raised platform
Not too far from the colony, on the cliffs of Potberg Mountain, avid birders can view the Western Cape’s last remaining breeding colony of Cape vultures. A short but steep hike up De Hoop’s Klipspringer Trail leads to a lookout platform over the colony, home to around 150 Cape vultures. The hike is worth the climb, and the views are spectacular, with vultures soaring overhead, diving and circling in the sky.
A nest-building Cape vulture
De Hoop’s marine reserve
The De Hoop Marine Protected Area extends 5km out to sea from the coastline of the nature reserve. This is one of Africa’s largest marine protected areas, providing a sanctuary for a fascinating array of marine life. Adventurers can explore the coastal rock pools, fossilised dunes, sandy beaches and rocky shores, where marine life of all shapes and sizes can be seen – from bright orange starfish to purple sea urchins, limpets, barnacles, octopus, and some of the many sea birds that call these shores home. Snorkelling in the large, clear rock pools is one of the best ways to experience this magical marine world.
Calm rock pools offer ideal conditions for snorkelling
The protected waters are a haven for endangered southern right whales, and 40% of the world’s population of these gentle giants return from feeding in the far Southern Ocean close to Antarctica in the summer months to the waters off De Hoop annually, to mate, give birth and rear their calves. The marine protected area is an important destination for these magnificent mammals, as it guarantees a safe nursery, and during the season, around 120 whales call De Hoop home.
Southern right whales travel to De Hoop to birth their calves here
At the peak periods of the season (June and December), as many as fifty can be spotted in a day, making the reserve one of the best spots for land-based whale watching in the world. The whales come so close to shore that visitors can simply sit on the dunes and watch them as they breach, blow and belly-flop. Aside from whales, visitors are likely to spot diving dolphins and frolicking seals, and the waters here are home to at least 250 species of fish.
Spot dolphins surfing the breakers
Explore and stay
Want to explore magnificent De Hoop? To find lodges in or near De Hoop, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
For the keen hiker, De Hoop has one of the best hiking trails in South Africa: the five-day, 55km Whale Trail, which features well-equipped accommodation along the route. The ‘slack-packing’ route offers coastal and mountain walking, with spectacular views and plenty of opportunities for whale watching. Do note that hiking the Whale Trail requires booking well in advance.
Visiting De Hoop between August and November, during whale watching time, is particularly rewarding, but the reserve has something to offer explorers throughout the year.
Various accommodation options are available, from luxury lodges with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean to self-catering cottages and campsites.
Several lodges offer luxury experiences within the reserve
Final thoughts
As the sun goes down on another crisp Cape coast day, and the sky lights up crimson, orange and yellow, there’s nothing better than to sit, gin and tonic in hand, and look out over the endless ocean. Silhouetted against the sky, a southern right whale and her calf make for a sensational sunset spectacle.
De Hoop offers the complete outdoor experience: sea, unspoiled beaches, dunes, wetlands, rare plants, diverse animals, incredible bird life and hiking trails. From adventure, peace and tranquillity to luxury and wilderness, De Hoop has it all.
I recently played a minor role in an interesting Facebook exchange that is worth highlighting. It started with the operations manager of a large community-owned Big 5 game reserve posting a photo of a black rhino in the reserve and celebrating her safe existence thanks to ‘24/7 by state-of-the-art surveillance and hyper-alert security’.
Predictably, one person, a freelance safari guide, soon chirped “You really think it’s clever to advertise rhinos while nearby they’re slaughtered daily?”
To which the reserve manager replied:
“Sigh. Do we really, really have to go over this again? As before: Poachers aren’t trawling my social media looking for rhinos. Poachers already know that we have rhinos. It’s no secret. We are a legitimate Big 5 game reserve. We advertise this. Our commercial survival, and the conservation of rhinos, depends on us advertising and marketing our status to paying guests who want to see rhinos in the wild. These guests who want to see rhinos are the ones paying for their conservation, who are supporting their very existence. We cannot keep this a secret. We have hundreds of employees and thousands of close neighbours among our local communities. All know that we have rhinos. Knowing this, we invest heavily in anti-poaching, surveillance, security, information etc. I hope that this informs your thinking as I’ve addressed this before with you.”
Hypocritically, the same freelance guide recently posted a video on Facebook of rhinos they saw in a local national park – with location disclosed. ‘Sigh’ indeed
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
From the urban traveller’s paradise of Cape Town to two spectacular wilderness areas in Botswana, let us romance you with the ultimate southern African adventures…
Cape Town & Khwai – 9days/8nights – from ZAR 58,340pps
Begin this best-of-both-worlds holiday by immersing yourself in the exquisite natural beauty, magnificent beaches, edgy urban delights and colourful history of Cape Town. Then on to a safari in the heart of Botswana’s Khwai wilderness, where you’ll encounter some of the continent’s most iconic wildlife. Explore this magnificent landscape on game drives, guided walks, and boat safaris before returning to the unparalleled comfort of your luxury accommodation—a trip guaranteed to create lifelong memories.
Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$ 945pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans of Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans in Botswana goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
When we were children, summer holidays stretched on forever, and a year felt like a lifetime. But the older we get, the faster time seems to move. There are some fascinating explanations for why this happens, but the point that I am trying to make is that we are already racing towards the end of April 2023. This, in turn, means that our Photographer of the Year competition is rapidly approaching its eagerly anticipated conclusion. Just two weeks left before we start selecting our top images!
So, for now, take the opportunity to soak in the wonder of this week’s gallery with childlike appreciation. Our most recent exhibition includes zebra violence, feline beauties, unusual encounters and some watchful eyes. Our entrants never fail to amaze us.
And then, did you know that humans have only inhabited Madagascar for around 1,500 years? Coincidentally (?), Madagascar experienced an extinction wave some 1,000 years ago that saw the loss of giant lemurs the size of gorillas and elephant birds larger than ostriches. They were artworks of evolution – gone forever. Tragically, much of Madagascar’s biodiversity has either been lost or is teetering on the brink. To drive home this message, scientists have found novel ways to quantify what it would take to recover. You can read more in our second story below.
In our forum this week: Moses Selebatso from Kalahari Research & Conservation (KRC) invites you to take part in an art auction. 100% of the proceeds from this sale will be donated to the KRC’s vital work protecting the remarkable, vast landscapes and wildlife of the Kgalagadi. If you would like to support their efforts, now’s your chance to get bidding!
WATCH: Wish you were here? A simply sublime escape to why we do this. Turn up the volume (00:39). Click here to watch
Nature may be resilient in many ways, but sometimes the damage done is so severe that only time – and an abundance thereof – could ever affect a genuine repair. A new study published in Nature Communications suggests that it would take millions of years to reverse the damage done to Madagascar and its unique and precious biodiversity.
Madagascar has been evolutionarily isolated for 88 million years, its geography and climate shaping a host of fascinating plants and animals away from outside influences. As a result, 90% of the island’s fauna and flora is endemic, with phenomenal biodiversity that is worlds apart from anything else on the planet. The island is so large and its environment so diverse that some have even argued for its consideration as the world’s eighth continent. It is home to over 300 recorded species of birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile, including two-thirds of Earth’s chameleon species. There are over a hundred lemur species, with new species being discovered every few years. From mountain rainforests to deserts, the creatures of Madagascar have specialised in inhabiting a wide variety of habitat types.
But Madagascar’s natural marvels are vanishing at an alarming rate – over 90% of the rainforest has been lost to human encroachment, and more than half the mammals on the island are considered endangered. Many of the island’s distinctive creatures are found only in small populations adapted for limited, specific habitats, making them particularly vulnerable to extinction.
To understand the extent of human impact on the island, a team of Malagasy, European and American scientists set out to measure how long it would take before the island’s biodiversity could be restored. This is a complicated question because no two islands or habitats are the same, species diversity develops at different rates, and some take longer to “recover” than others. There are also different approaches to what counts as lost or recovered diversity, including taxonomic and phylogenetic diversity. For this study, the researchers opted to focus on the recovery of taxonomic diversity – measured by total number of species – in Madagascar, taking into account regional rates of colonisation, speciation and extinction. Simply put, they examined how long it would take for the same number of species to evolve to replace those lost to extinction, offering an unusual temporal perspective on existing and potential damage.
Over 90% of Madagascar’s rainforest has been lost to human encroachment
This approach required that the scientists ascertain the relationships between existing species and the number and causes of recent extinctions. As not all this information was immediately available for all the Malagasy species, they built comprehensive datasets for each mammal species known to have inhabited Madagascar. This included the 219 mammals alive today and another 30 that have gone extinct in the past two millennia. Their research also required the construction of a genetic family tree to establish relationships and thus estimate how long each species took to evolve.
The authors concluded that it would take three million years to “replace” the species already lost to extinction. However, this period assumes that no further losses be allowed to take place. If Madagascar were to lose all of its endangered mammal life, it would take a staggering 23 million years to return to previous levels of evolutionary complexity and diversity. Furthermore, evolution will not simply recreate the lost species – what is lost is lost forever.
This time calculation took the researchers by surprise, as it is much longer than previous studies have found on other islands such as New Zealand or the Caribbean. This, in turn, emphasises the urgency of protecting Madagascar’s natural marvels to save the species that represent millions of years of evolution. The study’s results “suggest that an extinction wave with deep evolutionary impact is imminent on Madagascar unless immediate conservation actions are taken.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
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Glamorous geladas + fantastic photos
So I challenged ChatGPT – the language processing tool driven by artificial intelligence technology – to come up with a convincing pitch on why your next safari should be with Africa Geographic. This is what it suggested:
“As a fellow lover of adventure and nature, I am reaching out to tell you about Africa Geographic’s hand-made, experience-based safaris.
We craft unforgettable adventures that not only leave a lasting impression on our clients, but also benefit the communities and ecosystems we visit. What sets us apart from our competitors is our unwavering commitment to responsible travel and community development. We believe that our efforts not only provide you with an unforgettable experience, but also contribute to creating a better world.“
Not bad for a bunch of code! My contemplations this morning were fuelled by a dwindling supply of Question Coffee beans – a bag of which I purchased during my recent sojourn in Rwanda. Follow this link to understand how awesome this initiative is. And the coffee is delicious. Nope, not sponsored – just thought I would share the goodness 😉
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
This week we have two hand-picked safaris for you: an authentic wilderness experience deep in South Luangwa National Park and a thrilling adventure in Victoria Falls. And if you can’t choose, why not combine them and get the best of both? Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip.
Affordable South Luangwa safari – expert guide – 5 days – from US$2625 pps
This fantastic combination of walking and vehicle-based game viewing will appeal to experienced safari-goers and novices alike. Expect exceptional wildlife, tracking on foot in the birthplace of the walking safari, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners in Zambia’s premier safari destination.
Victoria Falls – 3 days – from US$ 740 pps
Three days of non-stop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or add-on to another safari. Either way, unequivocally an iconic destination to tick off your bucket list. Experience the magic of ‘the smoke that thunders’ – one of the seven wonders of the natural world.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Africa is a continent overflowing with photogenic potential, but even amidst all this beauty, there can be no denying that some animals make more dramatic subjects than others. Take the gelada, for example – a primate that, without fail, finds its way into our Photographer of the Year weekly galleries regularly every year.
There is just something about that coiffed mane and deeply-furrowed brow that begs to be photographed. And then, did you know that geladas have forgone the brightly coloured genitals and perineum so favoured by other primate species? This is because they spent the majority of their days foraging on their bottoms, which would make such unambiguous sexual signalling a bit of a waste. Hence the eye-catching scarlet chest patches that set them apart. Check out our first story below to learn more about the fascinating nuances of geladas (and see if you can get through it without singing “Simply the Best”).
Unplanned, though somewhat conveniently, this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery features a male gelada with his chest patch on full display. Also included this week: a lion cub with terrible table manners, a fierce battle between forest giants and one very sharp reflection. How better to celebrate the arrival of the weekend?
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/gelada/
GLAMOROUS GELADAS
With complex social structures & vocabularies, the cliff-dwelling gelada of Ethiopia is one of Africa’s most striking primates
WATCH: “The next 10 years are absolutely critical … solutions are found at a local level …. there are five key pillars to what we do”. An inspiring video from and about African Parks (09:15). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
There are many wonders to behold from the Roof of Africa in Ethiopia. Here in the Highlands, at altitudes over 3,000 metres, a rare goat leaps nimbly between rocks and the continent’s most endangered carnivore – the Ethiopian wolf – stalks through the heather, searching for mole-rats. But of all the weird and wonderful creatures on display, the gelada is unequivocally the star of the show.
Gorgeous geladas
Geladas (Theropithecus gelada) are a species of monkey endemic to the Highlands of Ethiopia, occurring only at altitudes between 1,800 and 4,400 metres above sea level. They are highly social graminivores (grazers) and, given the distinct lack of large trees at their preferred altitude, are the least arboreal primates after humans. They spend their days foraging the plateau’s grasslands before descending to the surrounding cliff faces to pass the night in (relative) safety on narrow ledges.
Astonishingly for an animal so extravagantly adorned with bright colours and coiffed fur, it is only in the past two decades that the gelada has experienced something of a surge in tourist and scientific interest. This is mainly due to Ethiopia’s troubled history, as famine, political turmoil, and civil war laid waste to the country and her people and put paid to any hopes of a burgeoning tourism industry. As the country stabilised, visitors returned to explore a land steeped in history and scenic beauty – and quickly discovered the magic of the geladas.
The flowing manes and striking facial features of the gelada make for a fascinating image
And, as it turned out, geladas are naturals when it comes to entertaining fascinated tourists and eager photographers. They have an almost uncanny ability to strike a pose, invariably against a backdrop of jaw-dropping scenery. Their bright red, hourglass-shaped chest patches stand out against the muted greens and browns of their habitat, and the thick blonde manes of the males are positively leonine. Geladas also proved to be quick to habituate (like many primate species), allowing visitors the intimate opportunity to observe their social lives. (As we can never resist the opportunity to highlight this, check out this post depicting Africa Geographic travel director Christian Boix’s encounter with a very forward gelada.) Geladas are intelligent and live in exceptionally complex, multilevel societies, so their day-to-day interactions are guaranteed to captivate and enthral onlookers.
Geladas spend days foraging the plateau’s grasslands before descending to the cliff faces
Quick facts
Length:
50-75cm
Mass:
Males (average): 18.5kg
Females (average): 11kg
Social Structure:
Reproductive units, bands and herds
Gestation:
Around six months (approximately 180 days)
Conservation status:
Least concern (for now)
The gelada baboon? No.
The gelada is frequently referred to as a ‘gelada baboon’ – an understandable but incorrect moniker. At first glance, baboons and geladas share several morphological similarities, including basic body and head shapes. The exact phylogenetic relationships between the baboons (Papio spp.), mandrills and drills (Mandrillus spp.), mangabeys (Lophocebus spp. and Cercocebus spp.) and geladas (Theropithecus) have been subject to considerable debate and several changes. However, the most recent genetic studies indicate that baboons and Lophocebus mangabeys are more closely related, and geladas are an evolutionary outgroup. While it is undoubtedly true that common names of animals do not always reflect their exact biological family (think koala bear), using appropriate terminology can help prevent confusion. [For an entertaining, subtle rebuke of scientists referring to geladas as ‘gelada baboons’ – and some clarity on this subject – you can read What is (not) a baboon?]
The gelada is the only surviving member of its genus, though fossil records show that there were once at least three larger geladas spread across Africa and much of Asia. Today, there are two recognised subspecies: the northern gelada (T. g. gelada) and the southern gelada (T. g. obscurus), which is also known as the eastern or Heuglin’s gelada.
The gelada’s bright red, hourglass-shaped chest patches stand out against the muted greens and browns of their habitat
Gregarious gelada
If geladan taxonomy was tricky, then their social structure is downright Daedalian. Let’s start with the basics: the fundamental building block of gelada society consists of a small group (two to 12) related females, their babies and a couple of (usually unrelated) mature males. These are called “reproductive units”. The next step up the gelada social pyramid is “bands” – groups of between two to 27 reproductive units. Bands usually share overlapping home ranges with around three other bands, which form a “community”. Finally, there are “herds”: temporary aggregations of over sixty reproductive units (potentially over 1,000 geladas). With us so far? Good, because there’s more.
Young geladas practise the art of sitting
Within each reproductive unit, the females coexist in a hierarchy, with the more dominant members demonstrating greater reproductive success. The males within the reproductive unit curry favour with the females, often showing a distinct preference for one or two individuals and reinforcing existing bonds through grooming. This diligent approach to caregiving may serve the males well in the event of an aggressive takeover attempt by another male. Though considerably smaller than the males, the females yield formidable power in the unit and may choose to support or abandon a male depending on his contribution.
Intimacy in the Simien Mountains
While females tend to stay within their natal reproductive units for life, young males generally have to strike out on their own once they reach sexual maturity. They form small groups of all-male units and wait for the opportunity to join (or take over) a reproductive unit.
The complexities of gelada societies abound and would occupy several pages if described in full. Scientists are still unravelling fascinating nuggets of information about cheating partners, spontaneous abortions and “contagious” yawns.
Garrulous gelada
These intricate social niceties require considerable communicative abilities. Naturally, body language cues play a central role in gelada intercourse. Perhaps the most famous of these signs is the infamous “lip flip”, where the upper lip is folded upwards over the nostrils, exposing a terrifying set of canine teeth. This is combined with a raised brow, exposing pale rings around the eyes. The message is unambiguous: “If you come closer/do that again/ do not move, I will bite you.” It can be used in aggressive displays or by a defensive animal attempting to submit.
However, geladas are not limited to games of charades to convey their message. They talk to each other. Constantly. So much so that some scientists believe that gelada chattering is about as close to human speech as any primate comes. They mutter and lip-smack and can communicate reassurance, appeasement, respect, appreciation, anger, and aggression.
Body language cues are an intricate part of gelada life
Sitting pretty
Geladas occupy an extreme habitat at high altitudes, and this comes with certain advantages, including a dearth of competition and predators. Leopards, hyenas, servals and birds of prey all hunt geladas, but they are few and far between in the Highlands and living in groups means that there are plenty of eyes to watch for potential problems. So successful is this approach that over 85% of all infant geladas survive to adulthood – a remarkably high number in the wild. Interestingly, Ethiopian wolves pay them no heed and will often wander into the midst of a herd without any reaction from the grazing primates.
The characteristic coifed coat of the gelada
However, living the high life means that nutritious food is hard to find, and geladas have to spend most of their day foraging. 90% of their diet consists of grass; only a fraction is supplemented with seeds, flowers and the odd insect. They are the only primate species to follow this strict dietary approach. Their constant need to feed means that geladas adopt a specialised shuffle gait to move from grass to grass and spend most of their lives on their bottoms. They even have special fatty pads to act as built-in cushions.
Most “Old World” (Cercopithecidae) monkeys display their reproductive status through bright colouration, unambiguously positioned around the genitals and perineum. In the case of geladas, however, the traditional sexual signalling device is hidden from view most of the time, hence the chest patch, which changes colour and texture depending on hormone levels. The chest patches of females in oestrus become bright red and break out into a “necklace” of fluid-filled blisters. If this primate decolletage fails to spark the interest of her preferred male, she will simply position her rump under his nose until he gets the message.
Living high up in the mountains keeps geladas away from most predatory threats. Check out more pics from @pepexplorer here
Life on the edge of a cliff
A shortage of nutrients also makes geladas something of a crop pest. Popular with tourists though geladas may be, farmers take a far less welcoming view of roaming herds raiding their barley fields. One study showed that each animal causes approximately 100kg of crop damage. This conflict with people (especially in a country where food shortages are rife) and its inextricable link with extensive habitat loss is believed to have resulted in a loss of around 50% of Ethiopia’s gelada population over the past half a century. The gelada is listed on the IUCN Red List as “Least Concern”, but their numbers are believed to be declining.
Fortunately, there are protected areas where geladas continue to flourish. Simien Mountains National Park is home to Ethiopia’s largest population and offers some of the best gelada viewing in the country.
Get in touch with our travel team to help arrange your gelada experience – details below this story.
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Incredible images + a pending insect ‘apocalypse’
There has been much hullabaloo recently about the decision by the UK government to ban the import of hunting trophies. Amidst the clamour between the warring factions to gain the ascendency, facts have been cast aside and emotional drivel from both sides has dominated.
I have no truck with the UK government forging their own path in this regard – after all that is their sovereign right. But my fear is that the blanket nature of the ban will not end well for some remote African areas not supported by the tourism industry. A targeted ban would make more sense. For example ban and red-list trophy hunting operators and their clients based on defined standards and reporting requirements not being met and ban the hunting of certain species (or genetically-gifted individuals) based on scientifically-determined local populations. Surely this standard-setting and scientific rigour is already being enforced, you may well ask? After all, trophy hunting has been around since the 1800s. No it’s not in place, but for a few exceptions. Even if it was, this solution (a more targeted ban) is not practical – because experience has taught us that laundering illegal products via legal channels is the norm in the opaque wildlife industries. So the blanket ban by the UK government is more practical to implement and police. It is what it is.
We are stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to the vast unfenced areas so favoured by trophy hunters and hammered by poaching – the combo effect is devastating. Something has to change
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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Africa’s ultimate primate safari – 8 days – From US$ 5860 pps
This extraordinary journey will take you on an eight-day primate quest to meet the apes and monkeys of East and Central Africa. From the critically endangered Grauer’s gorilla in the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the fabled mountain gorillas of the east to the charismatic golden monkeys and the noisy chimpanzees of Rwanda, this safari is a celebration of all things primate. And, of course, the spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are added bonuses!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that the word “gorilla” owes its origins to an expedition of a Carthaginian explorer known as Hanno the Navigator? He set sail from Carthage over 2,500 years ago with 65 ships and several thousand people and travelled the west coast of Africa. Though the exact translation is disputed, the conclusion seems to be that “gorillai” means “tribe of hairy women” (no comment). The abridged account of their expedition is well worth a read – the encounter with “gorillas” being the denouement.
I fell down this particular rabbit hole while trying to write some creative captions for this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery. As you may have guessed, gorillas make an appearance or three. However, to me, the unifying theme this week pays homage to Africa’s unique and beautiful textures. You can access the gallery below to see if you agree with me.
This week’s second story is more sobering, especially in light of the latest IPCC report released two weeks ago, which again highlights the urgent need to act before global temperatures rise above the 1.5°C threshold. Though insects are not generally considered a symbol of climate change, they are one of the animal groups most vulnerable to its effects. Read more in our second story below.
The Redshaw family recently returned home from their trip to South Africa. Have a look at their awesome feedback for teamAG:
“Dear Christian & the team at AG – We’ve just arrived back this morning in UK from the most amazing time in SA and all thanks to you! We all want to let you know how much we have enjoyed our trip to Phinda, Camps Bay and finally the Orange River and say a huge thank you for your help and expertise in arranging and putting the whole trip together, we couldn’t have done it without you and your advice and patience turned out to be invaluable, so we’re all very grateful. Best Regards – The Redshaw Family”
WATCH: Protecting rhinos from poachers boils down to uncompromising physical labour at ground level. The pride that these young men have in their jobs to keep rhinos safe speaks volumes … (11:18). Click here to watch
Insects are vulnerable to climate change. But scientists are warning of an impending insect apocalypse – which will severely impact human life
Insects may not be the “poster child” for climate change, but they are one of the animal groups most vulnerable to changing temperatures and weather systems. They also provide several fundamental and essential ecosystem services. Now, a team of over 70 scientists from across 19 countries are warning that unless action is taken, “we will drastically reduce our ability to build a sustainable future based on healthy, functional ecosystems”.
The authors examined hundreds of peer-reviewed studies from across the globe, predominantly from the past two decades. Their review provides a comprehensive, one-stop summary of every vital piece of research relating to insects and the threats they face. Scientists have been aware of declining insect species for decades, with some even labelling it an “insect apocalypse”, but viewed as a whole, the review of new research suggests a bleak picture. Both the short- and long-term effects of climate change have the potential to profoundly affect insect thermoregulation, breeding habits and distribution.
The ecological roles and services provided by insects should not be underestimated, and quite apart from a potential loss of biodiversity, their absence will severely impact human life. These services include pollination (including many crop plants), recycling nutrients, and providing an important food source for animals further up the food chain. On the opposite end of the spectrum, some insect families are pests and parasites, destroying livelihoods and spreading disease. Healthy ecosystems and the presence of other competing insects help to keep these damage-causing insects in check.
African monarch butterflies are prolific pollinators throughout the continent
Most insects cannot internally thermoregulate as mammals and birds can, meaning their response to changing temperatures is primarily behavioural (shade-seeking, for example). As a consequence, they are particularly vulnerable to extreme temperatures. To survive extreme weather events and cycles, some insects may be forced to shift their distribution, while others may face catastrophic disruptions to their breeding cycles. A loss of genetic diversity, sterility and even extinction could follow. In some instances, species (especially those in the tropics) may vanish before they have even been discovered.
The impacts of climate change on insects can be divided into the short-term and long-term. Short-term effects of climate change include heatwaves and extreme temperatures, increased frequency of extreme temperatures, drought, rainfall and floods, and fire. The long-term effects may be more gradual and subtle but could be equally damaging. These include effects on species distributions, phenology (the seasonal patterns of reproduction, growth, and migration, for example) and the relationships between species. One study suggested that the ranges of nearly half the world’s insect species will decline by 50% if average global temperatures rise by 3.2˚C. Conversely, the range of malaria-carrying mosquitoes could expand.
While the authors acknowledge that insect declines can also be attributed to habitat loss and fragmentation, along with many other anthropogenic factors, they emphasise that the aforementioned effects of climate change could exacerbate many of these challenges and even tip endangered populations towards extinction. The knock-on effects will be felt across trophic levels.
With limited exceptions, insects are not particularly iconic animals. The plights of the polar bears and melting ice caps or starving elephants in drought-stricken Africa make for much more emotive climate-change symbolism. Yet the impact of climate change on insects has the potential to be both immediate and long-lived and will have tragic consequences for both ecosystems and people.
“We need to realise, as humans, that we are one species out of millions of species, and there’s no reason for us to assume that we’re never going to go extinct,” says Anahí Espíndola, one of the co-authors and assistant professor of entomology at the University of Maryland. “These changes to insects can affect our species in pretty drastic ways.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Rise of Liwonde + more phenomenal images
So our story last week about Namibia’s free-roaming horses caused quite a stir. There is usually no straight line solution to complex issues like this, and well-meaning people often stray into angry troll mode when expressing their fears and hopes. These horses are not native to Namibia, and some argue that they should be treated like any other introduced species – culled or relocated to privately-owned land – to preserve the natural balance. Some argue that we should leave nature to sort this out. If hyenas and other predators kill all of the horses then that’s nature’s way of deciding what’s best. Others argue that we should cull or relocate naturally-occurring species to protect this introduced species. The Namibian authorities have in the past culled hyenas that were killing the horses – an unusual move for a conservation authority.
Like most situations where a charismatic species is involved, public sentiment plays a role. Yet again we have conflicting agendas slugging it out, and conservation authorities are caught in the crossfire. There is no solution that will satisfy everyone. I trust the authorities and conservationists at ground level to plot the course – as uncomfortable as that may be for many.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
In the past three years of writing for Africa Geographic, I’ve probably found every possible permutation of praise for the many extraordinary parks and reserves on our beautiful continent. However, some stand out in my mind more than others – they stay with me long after they have been published. Our first story below looks at one such destination: Liwonde National Park in Malawi.
We so often forget to celebrate conservation successes, but the incredible journey of Liwonde should be lauded. Thanks to the involvement of African Parks, the park has been pulled from the brink of destruction and catapulted towards a future as an exceptional safari destination. The message of hope that comes from its transformation cannot be understated.
And then, did you know that scientists have discovered a new species of jellyfish off the coasts of South Africa? Though my jellyfish ID skills are limited, I’m fairly certain that the Chrysaora agulhensis features in this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery. How cool is that? Other gallery stars include several examples of the eternal battles of predator and prey, Rikki-Tikki-Tavi and a profoundly soggy owl. This week has been one of my favourite galleries so far!
Read about the incredible story of Sujaa, a white-bellied pangolin pup, rescued by a team of dedicated conservations who moved her some 300km through a war zone. To support the vital work done by the African Pangolin Working Group, visit their page on our app and donate to them directly.
WATCH: This large male lion is stranded on a rock in the Olifants River (Greater Kruger, South Africa) and attacked by hippos (01:18). Click here to watch
There are times when the conservation world is so saturated with negativity, bad news and heartrending realities that it is easy to overlook the stories of success and good fortune. So, we forget to celebrate the remarkable progress made by dedicated organisations and individuals. Take the incredible journey of Liwonde National Park, for example – pulled from the brink of destruction and catapulted towards a bright future as an exceptional Big 5 safari destination and one of Malawi’s key protected areas.
We are fortunate that nature is capable of such extraordinary resilience to our impact that her regenerative capacity knows few bounds. We owe our gratitude to those devoted to providing our wild spaces with the opportunity to recover from our trespasses. Because when given that chance, parks like Liwonde prove just how much is possible.
Liwonde National Park
Lake Malawi, Malawi’s most notable geographical feature and the world’s fifth-largest freshwater lake, holds a water volume of over 8,000km3. The only outlet is the impressive Shire River, which flows first into shallow Lake Malombe and then continues onwards to bisect the country’s southern third. Liwonde National Park is situated just south of Lake Malombe (and encompasses a small section of shoreline), its western boundary marked by the sinuous curves of the Shire and extending east over 548km2 (54,800 ha) of riverine floodplains, woodlands, and arid savannas.
Liwonde is known for its towering riverine trees, wide floodplains and excellent wildlife viewing around waterways
Naturally, the vast Shire River and its various tributaries form the beating heart of this thriving park, with Borassus palm-studded floodplains, thick reedbeds and towering riverine trees setting an almost Okavango-like scene for spectacular wildlife viewing. Away from the network of waterways, mopane woodlands form natural cathedrals overhead, interspersed with the alien forms of candelabra euphorbias. Ancient baobabs loom out of thickets or dominate clearings, their stolid, gnarled forms somehow both other-worldly and reassuring.
Like many of Africa’s formerly protected spaces, Liwonde’s history is complicated, with dark roots in evictions and relocations of its former human residents during the latter half of the 20th century. As tourism to Malawi stuttered, the park fell into disrepair, and poaching and human-wildlife conflict escalated to a veritable tipping point. More wire snares existed in the park than large animals, predators vanished, and even vultures avoided the beleaguered region. Liwonde was a park in terminal decline…
A black rhino under woodland canopy
Restoring the balance in Liwonde
Luckily, this is not another doom-and-gloom tale but one of blossoming hope for a long-term future. Bolstered by the undeniable success of nearby Majete Wildlife Reserve, a forward-thinking partnership was formed between Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and the non-profit organisation African Parks. In 2015 African Parks assumed management responsibility for Liwonde National Park and embarked on the painstaking process of transforming it into a viable ecosystem and safari destination.
What does it take for an ecosystem to repair and flourish? The recipe appears deceptively simple – provide nature with the necessary ingredients and a safe environment to restore balance. In the case of Liwonde, the first step was to fence off the national park to secure the remaining wildlife populations and reduce the incidence of human-wildlife conflict. Naturally, investment in infrastructure brought two-fold benefits: the return of tourists and increased capacity for security enforcement and counter-poaching initiatives. The construction of a ranger training centre provided a facility critical to the training of rangers for parks throughout Malawi.
With a history of evictions and decades of human-wildlife conflict, building a relationship between surrounding communities and the park was the next essential step. No protected area can flourish at the expense of, or without benefiting, its human neighbours and this has always been a fundamental tenant of the African Parks’ philosophy. Education forms a core part of this community development strategy, and today, Liwonde supports two local schools and provides several scholarships. Children are regularly taken for guided tours of the park to learn more about wildlife, conservation, and their country’s natural heritage.
With a newly devised tourism plan in place and the park secure, it was time to bring the animals back.
Liwonde’s palm-studded floodplains; buy-in from surrounding communities is central to Liwonde’s growth; Liwonde has once again become a sought-after destination for tourists
The march of Malawi’s elephants
No matter how resilient nature may be, a helping hand is often necessary to reverse local extinctions of specific iconic species. African Parks is responsible for managing multiple parks across much of the continent. However, the organisation has a robust presence in Malawi, managing four separate parks: Majete Wildlife Reserve, Mangochi Forest Reserve, Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park. This allows for a cohesive and adaptive management strategy for wildlife populations and for each park’s success to benefit the rest of the country.
In the last decade, Malawi has been involved in some of the most ground-breaking animal translocations in the world. Some founder populations of different species have often made a cross-continental journey from other countries, especially South Africa. However, burgeoning elephant populations in Majete and Liwonde have been used to bolster local elephant numbers in both Nkhotakota, Nyika National Park and, more recently, Kasungu National Park. These enormous undertakings have seen hundreds of elephants translocated safely across the country.
Liwonde’s healthy elephant population is being used to bolster other populations in Malawi
The Big 5 (and others) return to Liwonde
While elephant numbers in Liwonde were historically stable, other wildlife was not quite as fortunate. Cheetahs were the first large predators to be reintroduced after around a century’s absence. The first cheetahs arrived from South Africa in 2017, followed by ten lions sourced from South Africa and Majete a year later. 2021 saw the historical return of wild dogs (African painted wolves) to both Majete and Liwonde. Though the intention was that Liwonde would receive a pack of eight of these endangered carnivores, one of the females was pregnant, and the pack welcomed nine pups six weeks later – the first litter of wild dogs born in Malawi in decades! But in a tragic occurrence in November 2022, 14 wild dogs from this pack were poisoned.
After being reintroduced to Liwonde in 2017, the cheetahs of Liwonde are thriving
The now thriving ecosystems support massive herds of over a thousand buffalo, and Liwonde is one of the best places in Africa to see the endangered sable antelope. Black rhinos have been translocated from South Africa to supplement the remaining population, and interchanges with individuals from Majete has helped keep rhino genetics suitably diverse.
Liwonde supports large herds of buffalo; the park is one of the best places to see sable antelope; African openbills gather in their masses; African skimmers over the Shire River; an elusive white-backed night heron peers out from the shore
One welcome consequence of increasing terrestrial predators was the return of aerial scavengers. When African Parks took over the park in 2015, vultures were absent. Today, management teams have recorded hundreds of sightings of at least six vulture species. Birding in Liwonde is exceptional all year round – with over 460 species recorded, including Lillian’s love birds, Pel’s fishing owls, Boehm’s bee-eaters, and Livingstone’s flycatchers as highlights for avid birders.
Lions were reintroduced to Liwonde in 2018
Mangochi Forest Reserve
In 2018, Mangochi Forest Reserve, contiguous with Liwonde’s north-eastern border, became the fourth Malawian reserve to fall under African Parks’ mandate. This increased the organisation’s footprint in the region by 60% and brought the total area under their protection to 906km2 of continuous wilderness. This undulating landscape of ancient forest is a critical ecological extension of Liwonde, serving as an important water catchment and dispersal area for elephants and other species.
As in Liwonde, Mangochi’s mammal populations have suffered in recent decades, but there is a small breeding population of leopards, and over 543 bird species have been recorded in the forest. African Parks has constructed four fenced camps within the national park, increased the road network and is erecting a fence around the entire perimeter of Mangochi. They intend to extend the same law enforcement, habitat management, community engagement and socio-economic development as employed in Liwonde National Park.
The wildlife experience in Liwonde is akin to many of the continent’s better known safari destinations; Chimwala Camp is sheltered by Miombo and Mopane trees; wildlife clusters around the river systems for excellent viewing opportunities
Explore & stay
The best time to visit Liwonde is during the dry season, from April to October. As the park is dry, wildlife clusters around the remaining water of the river systems. However, the rainy season offers its advantages. When the first thunderstorms darken the November nights, the bushveld transforms from a veritable dustbowl to an emerald-green paradise.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
As one of Africa’s better-kept secrets, the Liwonde experience is incredible value for money, with budget to high-end accommodation options available. For those seeking a self-catering experience in a bush camp, Chimwala Bush Camp is an ideal destination.
Learn more about Chimwala Bush Camp here:
Wildlife sightings are as impressive as those of more renowned destinations in Africa. Floating down the Shire River on a boat safari, watching elephants feed in dense reedbeds, is somewhat reminiscent of a Botswanan safari – at a fraction of the price. Even better, the paradise beaches of Lake Malawi are just a short distance away, making Liwonde a perfect stop on a bush-beach vacation.
Find out about Liwonde for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Explore Liwonde’s waterways by boat to witness wildlife up close
Living Liwonde
Malawi is rapidly establishing itself as both an up-and-coming tourism destination, as well as a conservation role model for the continent. Liwonde is a shining example of how a land desecrated by decades of misuse can be transformed into a wild paradise. The change wrought in just a few short years symbolises hope for not just Liwonde, but many of Africa’s struggling wild spaces.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
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Inspiring images + wild horses on the brink
Covid reared its head in my life a few weeks ago during my Rwanda exploration. My symptoms were mild – nothing more than a head cold. I am triple-vaxxed and in decent physical shape, which probably contributed to my personal experience. Based on reactions from hotel staff and fellow travellers and the lack of Covid-related processes at airports, the world has moved on (with a few exceptions) and now treats Covid like any other virus. My personal choice to isolate for 4 days and wear a mask in public was a surprise to most people that I encountered.
Thanks to those that have responded to my call last week for population stats for free-roaming lions that are subjected to trophy hunting. Stand by – an article is in the works. Perhaps now that the UK has banned the import of hunting trophies (for better or worse), the trophy hunting heavy hitters will focus on ridding the industry of the rotten eggs that are driving it to extinction. Either way, teamAG will continue to drive for transparency and accountability.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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Ultimate Kafue safari – from US$ 2,290
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular through the miombo woodlands and across verdant floodplains. Explore this extraordinary wilderness and its waterways over several days, encountering the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. For the discerning traveller looking to experience one of the continent’s best-kept secrets, our packages showcase the best that Kafue has to offer.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that the Namib Desert horses have one of the lowest genetic variations of any feral or domestic horse population? This is not a criticism, but another complication to an already fraught reality as each subsequent drought threatens another genetic bottleneck. With numbers dwindling and conflict with predators on the rise, their situation is perilous.
This week, our guest opinion editorial by Ron Swilling delves into the complexities of Namibia’s “wild” horses. She explores her own emotional connection to the horses, as well as their intimate ties to Namibian history and tourism and their impact on indigenous wildlife (and visa versa). Read her thoughts in our first story below, and let us know what you think.
This week’s Photographer of the Year gallery features several artistic celebrations of Africa’s renowned displays of light and shadow, along with some genetic quirks of nature. From heart-stopping glances to snapshots of terror, our entrants never fail to amaze. Oh, and there’s also one giraffe with an identity crisis. Go on, have a look!
WATCH: An incredibly rare sighting of Ethiopian wolves harassing and chasing away a pair of honey badgers that had ventured too close to the wolves’ den site (02:03). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
On the golden sands of Africa’s ancient Namib Desert in southwestern Namibia, a small century-old population of wild desert horses fights for survival. A corrugated track leads from the main road between Aus and Lüderitz to the Garub hide, overlooking the gravel plains and the waterhole where the horses come to drink. The expanse of dry land is punctuated by the Dikke Willem inselberg and fringed by a series of tawny-coloured rocky hills.
Around the waterhole, narrow ribbons are etched on the sand from years of hoofbeats drumming on the earth. My heart skips along like an excited child. It has become my custom over the last ten years to leave the comfort of my tent at first light to reach the hide by sunrise, where I boil water for coffee on my small gas cooker to warm up from the winter chill, blow on my gloved hands, pull my jacket close to my body and wait for the horses to appear.
The sun peeps from the horizon. And, as if on cue, I catch my first glimpse of a small group of horses in the distance moving towards the waterhole. The wind whips their tangled manes, and dust explodes in puffs as their hooves hit the sand. Nearing the water, they break into a trot and then a gallop. Other groups of horses appear and repeat the performance. I watch the dynamics between them as they meet with greeting rituals and sometimes with a snort and a kick. Taking cover next to the hide to stay out of the wind, I sit in the presence of the horses. As the sun warms their rumps, I soak up the tranquillity of being among some of the last wild equids in Africa.
A herd of Namibia’s wild horses gather at a waterhole at Garub
The extreme elements do not threaten the Namib’s wild horses this time. The cyclic years of drought and abundance are part of life in the desert. This time it is a clan of spotted hyenas targeting the foals one by one, gradually decimating the population and threatening to end the intriguing history of the wild horses, one of southern Namibia’s tourist attractions.
The early morning scene at Garub is one that I have come to cherish through years of research on these horses. The isolated populations of wild horses that grace virtually every continent of the world originate from domesticated horses that have regained their freedom, except the Mongolian wild horse. Very few horses ever have the chance to live naturally – forming bonds, finding partners and being part of cohesive family groups, possibly because wild horses tug at our heartstrings. This is particularly true of the resilient horses that have made their home in the unlikely landscape of the Namib Desert.
The Namib horses are descended from the Kubub stud farm breeding horses, established at the beginning of the twentieth century, only 35km from where they are today. The farm was abandoned during World War One, leaving the unfenced and ownerless horses to follow the grazing. They gradually made their way to Garub, where there was a constant supply of borehole water for the steam trains. Over the years, the desert conditions and droughts kept their numbers low, at around two hundred horses, in proportion to the capacity of the land – and kept their gene pool strong.
According to Dr Telané Greyling, who studied the behaviour of the Namib wild horses extensively and monitored them continuously for 28 years, the Namib horses adapted their behaviour to ensure their survival in the desert, allowing a certain amount of dehydration. This condition would severely stress a domesticated horse.
The Namib horses are descended from the breeding horses of Kubub stud farm, established at the beginning of the twentieth century
Initially, the wild horses were protected in the restricted diamond-mining area, the Sperrgebiet, only entering the public arena when sections of the Sperrgebiet became part of Namib-Naukluft Park in the late-70s and -80s. By then, they had lived as a wild population in the desert for more than fifty years. As a game-proof fence, erected on the eastern boundary of the desert in the late 1980s, thwarts the horses’ ability to move inland to find water, they remain in the vicinity of the Garub waterhole, which they visit every two to three days to drink, depending on the weather and the proximity of the grazing.
When the Garub hide was built in 1993, visiting the wild horses became one of the highlights of passing through southern Namibia for many a traveller. Images of the horses were increasingly used in marketing Namibia as a wild, free and rugged destination. In 2012, a group of individuals from the safari tourism, veterinary, environmental management and environmental research sectors established the Namib Wild Horses Foundation. The foundation was set up to monitor the population and assist the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) in managing the horses, coordinating support for the horses’ long-term sustainability and administering funds from public donations for supplementary feed in times of drought.
At the time of the foundation’s establishment, the desert was experiencing years of above-average rainfall – but a period of drought would soon follow. The drought brought an additional unprecedented threat to the wild-horse population: the appearance of a clan of spotted hyenas drawn to the easily accessible food source.
The wild horses cut a striking image against the Namib Desert backdrop
Until then, hyenas had occasionally passed through the area preying on a foal or weakened horse but didn’t pose a major threat to the population. That changed in 2010 when individuals dispersed from another clan further north and moved into the area around Garub, establishing a new clan. Between 2013 and 2018, not a single foal survived. In 2013 alone, nearly a hundred horses were killed, fifty of them foals. The numbers of the wild horse population plummeted by more than half. The foundation began a series of talks with MEFT to look for solutions to safeguard the future of the population. But without immediate action, the wild horse population nosedived from 286 to a mere 74 horses.
While the humans were locked in discussions, nothing changed at Garub and horse numbers continued to drop.
In 2017, the foundation was granted permission to feed the hyenas as a short-term solution to draw them away from the horses, which it did until the drought broke in 2018. After a short reprieve by the hyenas turning their attention to domestic animals on nearby farms, they began to target the horses again.
In December 2018, when the situation seemed irrevocable, MEFT agreed to capture the hyenas and relocate them to a different area. They also released an official statement acknowledging the Namib horses as a national heritage and an essential asset for tourism, undertaking to ensure their survival.
Young foals are easy prey for hyenas
After unsuccessful attempts to dart the hyenas, the ministry eliminated several animals. In a public meeting held at the end of February 2019, attended by various parties, including predator-interest groups, there was a consensus that the situation could have been averted had it been dealt with and managed before it reached crisis point. MEFT then drew up a management plan for the horse population.
These events silenced the issues for several years until the hyenas started again preying on the foals. And with the horses out of the limelight, the public must be aware that the point of no return is fast approaching. The handful witnessing the population’s demise are losing hope that it will recover with the absence of new foals and the diminishing number of breeding mares.
But, the ray of light remains that the population will still stand a chance of survival if action is taken now. Many believe the clan of hyenas should be relocated. In contrast, others believe the horses should be moved to private land, where they can remain a national treasure and tourist attraction. Both solutions require a green light from MEFT. Until then, as the horses reside in a national park, the fate of the Namib horses hangs in the balance.
On leaving the hide this time, I realise with a sudden pang that although several foals have been born over the summer rainfall months, I haven’t seen a single one in my hours at the hide. I feel a deep sadness wash over me, knowing that this may be one of my last chances to see the Namib horses unless the various stakeholders can work together to find a reasonable outcome that is not merely put down on paper, but followed through with immediate and effective action.
The disappearance of the Namib wild horses would leave an empty blot in the desert where once people entertained magic and magnificence. And the safari industry, too, would feel the loss if these popular icons were to disappear.
Find out about Namibia for your next African safari (select ‘Namibia’ from the country list), find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
Editorial note: The opinions offered above are the author’s own. Much debate has evolved from the issues surrounding Namibia’s wild desert horses and to what extent conservation authorities should intervene between endemic wildlife and “feral” animals. What are your thoughts? Share your comments on this story by logging into our app.
Private landowners in South Africa now collectively support the largest population of white rhinos on the African continent. More than half of the continent’s rhinos are in private hands. This was the inevitable outcome of declining wild populations and increasing numbers of rhino found on private land. It brings into stark relief the importance of the private sector in rhino conservation. Given the rising costs associated with protecting rhinos, what will it take to build resilience in the private industry?
A new study published in Frontiers examines the contribution of private and communal land to rhino conservation as well as the financial and policy implications of such an arrangement. The authors also outline the policies necessary to create a secure environment for private conservation, including decision-making around trade, hunting and management.
Private contributions to rhino
Across the continent, over half of Africa’s white and a third of its black rhino occurred on private land in 2021. An additional 5% of the continent’s black rhino were held on communal land in Namibia and South Africa.
Despite having suffered considerable poaching losses, South Africa remains home to the largest number of white rhino (81%) on the continent, as well as around a third of the remaining black rhino. However, the focus of poaching on state-run parks such as the Kruger National Park and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park has resulted in a steady decline in wild rhino on state land. At the same time, the number of rhinos on private land has increased. Consequently, the proportion of the country’s white rhinos on private land has shifted from 25% in 2010 to 53% in 2021.
Data from other rhino range states, such as Zimbabwe and Namibia, also indicates a similar trend. Private lands in Zimbabwe now hold 88% and 76% of the country’s black and white rhino, respectively. 75% of Namibia’s white rhinos are found on private land, while 27% of its black rhinos are on private land, and 7% are in community conservancies.
Previous research showed that, on average, private properties spent approximately US$2,200 per animal on security in 2017, amounting to a cost of over US$100,000 per property on average for that year. More recently, this security cost increased substantially – some 50% in only three years. International trade in rhino horn is banned, and the price of live white rhinos sold at auction has declined 75% over the last decade. Furthermore, private and communal landowners receive no direct state funding to support their enterprise or the cost of securing their animals. Consequently, private ownership of rhinos (or land hosting them) has become considerably less attractive.
Without any constitutional mandate to protect these rhinos, some landowners are simply disinvesting. This is not yet a significant trend for private custodians (some are even growing their herds and investing in more rhino), but this may be due to the hope that trade in rhino horn will eventually be legalised. If this reality does not materialise, large-scale disinvestment seems likely.
Furthermore, keeping intensively managed populations (fed and kept at higher-than-natural densities) may prove the more practical (financially and otherwise) strategy in keeping captive rhinos safe. These kinds of captive populations cannot maintain natural breeding or evolutionary processes and do not contribute to ecosystem function.
A new path for rhino?
Future policies must identify ways to incentivise private rhino ownership to compensate for rising security costs. The authors acknowledge that the trade in rhino horn could theoretically provide such an incentive. However, they emphasise the need for context-specific research that takes into account the complexities of the issues at play. They also indicate that trophy hunting is a crucial revenue source in funding protection, which could be hampered by the growing international pressure to ban trophy hunting. In terms of both trade and hunting, the researchers highlight the need for consideration of local contexts.
Given the potential for increasing emphasis on intensive farming systems, there also needs to be additional incentives for extensive systems where the captive animals lead more natural lives. These might include implementing a more favourable tax structure or eligibility for carbon credits or “rhino bonds”. Crowdfunded donations linked to conservation performance are also a possibility.
“If additional incentives are not enabled, we risk losing private and communal rhino custodians, and with them, half of the remaining African rhinos”, concludes lead author Dr Hayley Clements.
In February 2023, the owner of the world’s largest private rhino farm, John Hume, announced that his Platinum Rhino farm, home to close to 2,000 rhino, would be auctioned in April. His press release cited rising security costs as the reason for the sale.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
A young leopard rests in a jackalberry tree in the heat of the day. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant
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Epic pics + big cat safari
I have just arrived at my guesthouse bordering Nyungwe National Park in southwest Rwanda – looking forward to exploring these ancient primal forests as a guest of African Parks.
Amongst other exciting activities we will be visiting the site where African Parks is building a midrange camp deep in the forest, due to be opened in Q1, 2024. This forms part of our Ukuri partnership with AP that kicks off midyear. Our other Nyungwe plans in the coming four days include chimp trekking, seeking out some of Africa’s most sought-after avian candy (did anyone mention Shelley’s crimsonwing?) and braving the thrilling Canopy Walkway for a top-down view of Afromontane rainforest.
Rwanda is so clean, so well-run and her people so welcoming – what an incredible example to all of what can de done after that tumultuous history! If you are ever in Kigali, make sure to include the Genocide Memorial in your plans – take tissues. #Respect
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Our scientific editor Jamie recently spent six days searching for the renowned leopards of Sabi Sands, sharing her love of the reserve and its inhabitants with fellow leopard lovers on an AG safari. The safari was a bonanza of epic leopard sightings, filled with laughs and the rejuvenation that can only come from time spent in the bushveld. Jamie shares the magical moments from this safari in our first story below. If this has you longing for time in the bush, why not join Jamie for the next one?
The entries for Photographer of the Year are streaming in, and we’re beyond impressed with the quality of this year’s images. This week’s gallery features Amboseli’s giants, elegant snakes in the moorlands of Mount Kenya and the forests of Pongola, intricate portraits of smaller creatures such as tree agamas and mantises, and some striking landscape shots starring the mighty cats of the Maasai Mara. Enjoy the gallery in our second story below.
Concerning reports of declining great white shark numbers off the Western Cape coast have been around for years, but the reasons behind the disappearance of our beleaguered sharks remain contested. There are, however, suspects. In case you haven’t heard, a pair of orcas lurking in our waters appear to be specialist shark hunters. Nicknamed Port and Starboard, the two whales are famous for their killer ways and distinctive modus operandi of consuming the oil-rich livers of their prey.
Did you know that Port and Starboard were recently implicated in the deaths of at least 17 sharks in a single day? The carcasses of the female seven-gill sharks washed ashore on Pearly Beach in Gansbaai, devoid of their livers. This is the pair’s largest killing spree to date.
However, whether or not the orcas are solely to blame for declining shark numbers has yet to be conclusively proven. Of course, it is far easier to blame a natural event than to suggest that the actions of fisheries (through depleted food resources, longline fishing and so on) may also be playing a substantial role…
WATCH: Save The Elephants recently shared this rare footage of a critically endangered wild forest elephant, fleeing a technologically generated bee sound in Liberia. The video shows the elephant’s reaction as the buzz of bees fills the air. This video captures a conservation victory: the Buzz Box tool, developed by Wildlife Survivors, is proving effective in safely steering elephants away from farms by emitting the sound of agitated bees – preventing incidents of human-wildlife conflict (01:13). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
As I passed beneath the arches of Gowrie Gate into the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, I was hit by an unexpected wave of overwhelming nostalgia. The reserve had been my home on and off for nearly five years, and every second tree and termite mound brought back another precious memory. But nostalgia rapidly turned to excitement when I remembered my purpose for this visit – six days of glorious exploration lay ahead, a chance to share my love for the reserve and its inhabitants with my special group of guests partaking in this Africa Geographic leopard safari.
Summer loving
January can be a tricky month for Lowveld safaris. The vegetation is lush and dense, water is plentiful, and tracking is almost impossible in places. It is often hot and humid, prey species disperse, and predators either cover huge distances at night or are comatose in the shade during the day. Of course, there are rich compensations for these minor challenges: the glorious contrasts of green and gold, baby animals finding their feet around every corner and the cheerful call of the woodland kingfishers providing the crack of dawn trill. It is a magnificent time to visit the bushveld for genuine nature lovers. Fortunately, ours was a group of well-seasoned safari-goers with enough experience and insight to appreciate the majesty of the unfolding summer.
The gang’s all here – our little group in the expert company of Ralph and Chris from Jaci’s Sabi House.
Our bushveld retreat
One of the highlights of this exclusive safari was having our lodge – Jaci’s Sabi House – all to ourselves. This meant we had complete control of the schedule. Want to enjoy the cool mornings? No problem, we just shifted our start time even earlier, departing at 5.00 am and returning only when the heat and hungry bellies finally chased us back to the refuge of the lodge. Similarly, afternoon drives started as early as the temperatures allowed. It was a pleasure to find myself in the company of like-minded individuals, and all thoughts of sundowners were abandoned in favour of letting the Sabi Sands work its magic.
Elephants are one of my favourite animals to view on a summer’s day, as they are frequently in search of a good mud bath to keep cool
Why waste a moment of that potential? By the time we arrived at the lodge each night, the day’s excitement had made the already delicious three-course meals taste like heaven on earth. We ate beneath the star-spangled sky, serenaded by roaring lions and the iconic whoops of spotted hyenas.
We enjoyed our scrumptious brunches on the lodge deck overlooking the dam, and on one occasion, we were interrupted by the appearance of elephants at the water’s edge. In ones and twos, they emerged from the treeline, doing the excited elephant “water walk” and swinging their trunks in anticipation. Soon, the waterhole was surrounded, and elephants everywhere were drinking, playing or greeting each other with low rumbles. The last of the bacon was abandoned as we watched, mesmerised, before they melted back into the vegetation, leaving the very affronted family of Egyptian geese in peace.
The dam outside Jaci’s Sabi House provides many opportunities for intimate sightings
Leopard, leopard everywhere
Not for nothing is the Sabi Sands considered one of the leopard capitals of Africa, and it certainly lived up to its reputation for our leopard safari. We saw four different leopards over the six-day sojourn, and nearly every drive delivered a rosetted pelage for our indulgence. Yet the quality of these sightings, not the quantity, made the experience truly special. (It is worth mentioning this was due in part to the patience of our wonderful guests, who were happy to wait for the sleepy cats to move rather than barrel around from sighting to sighting.)
Langa – one of the stars on our leopard safari- looking the picture of comfort shortly before her encounter with a hyena. (You can see more of Lisa’s images by following @lisa.antell)
The stars of our trip were two young leopards – a female called Langa (“sun”) and a male known as Maribye (“rocks”). Both are on the cusp of maturity, with Langa set to carve out her territory and Maribye soon to begin the dangerous business of dispersal in search of a space of his own. From a viewing perspective, this is a wonderful age because young leopards are still full of energy and personality, capable predators but still learning the vital rules of survival.
Young male leopard Maribye climbed to dizzying heights in a jackalberry tree
Langa impressed us with her poise, focus and uncanny ability to strike the perfect pose for our eager photographers. However, her dignity was decidedly ruffled when she was chased up a skinny apple-leaf tree by two very determined hyenas. We could hardly believe it when the situation repeated itself two days later, though she sought refuge in a rather uncomfortable-looking russet bushwillow this time around.
Langa showing off her impala lamb kill in the last rays of the setting sun
By contrast, Maribye was insouciant, bordering on comical. His belly was perpetually full (probably due to the seasonal influx of impala lambs), but he still entertained us by pouncing on emerging termite alates one evening. On another hot afternoon, we found him lying on the damp mud on the side of the road, presumably trying to cool off somewhat. He then led us into a nearby drainage line where he had stashed his latest meal. Following this, he treated everyone to a display of the renowned leopard agility by leaping from bough to bough of a jackalberry tree towering over our vehicle.
Our trip also yielded two different wild dog (painted wolf) encounters – both accompanied by the usual chaos in trying to keep up with these athletic predators
In between our leopard sightings, we were diverted by several performances from the supporting cast of Sabi Sand mammals, birds, insects and reptiles. These included a zebra stallion chasing a pack of wild dogs (known affectionately as the “6-pack”) and several brand-new elephant calves, still pink about the ears. Other highlights were a herd of mud-splattered buffalo, one determined fork-tailed drongo intent on scalping a distinctly miffed brown snake eagle, and two directionally confused teenage elephants.
A fish eagle takes flight during a pleasant hour spent bird watching at one of the region’s larger waterholes
Walking on sunshine
And just like that, the six days of our leopard safari that had stretched ahead of me when I arrived were over and done, and it was time to bid my guests farewell. This I did with no small degree of regret – time spent in the bushveld is always a great bonding experience, and the long hours driving through the reserve had provided countless opportunities for fascinating conversation. In the heart of Sabi Sands, we spoke about everything from conservation and politics to the state of the world and our hopes for the future. But for the most part, we were light-hearted and cheerful, entertained by our in-jokes and sheltered by the bubble of the wilderness around us, the perfect soul-refresher ahead of a new year.
“No wait, please don’t take a photograph, I’m still chewing my breakfast…”
A five-week-old lion cub examining the world. Thornybush Private Game Reserve, South Africa.
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Cheetahs to India + best pics + Mara safari
I am deep within Rwanda’s stunning Akagera National Park on a journey of discovery; prepping for Ukuri – our upcoming partnership with African Parks. Ukuri means ‘truth’ or ‘authentic’ in the Kinyarwanda language spoken across Central and East Africa. Next stop is breathtaking Nyungwe National Park!
A huge thanks to those who have registered to be advised once we go live with Ukuri. It would appear that the appetite for reasonably priced responsible safaris is healthy. If you are hearing about this for the first time, please read my editorial of last week.
Two quotes resonated with me this past week; perhaps they do so for you?
“Facts don’t care about your feelings” – Ben Shapiro
“As scary as it gets it’s just turbulence” – Pink
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
MAASAI MARA MIGRATION SEASON – 7 days – From US$4,585pps
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this carefully crafted itinerary. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent cat sightings.
ART ON SAFARI – 7 days – From ZAR60,150pps
Join this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati, Greater Kruger – and hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the peace of the wild, create art on game drives, and enjoy a peaceful stay at Kambaku Safari Lodge. There are only three spaces left, so don’t hesitate to book!
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week I am quite taken with our action-packed Photographer of the Year gallery. There are some fantastic pics: from the image of an airborne hyena bursting out of the battle scene surrounding a giraffe kill (which reminds me of an Inferno-esque Renaissance painting) to various scenes of skirmishes and combat; from displays of showmanship to incredible captures of colour, depth and culture from the continent. See this week’s gallery below.
Our second story is a fascinating and poignant read. The reintroduction of cheetahs to India is dividing conservationists. A second group of southern African cheetahs has just made their journey across the world to Kuno National Park. Is this an ecologically unsound vanity project or a conservation victory for cheetahs, and for Indian ecosystems? Read more in our story.
Did you know that there are fewer than 12 Asiatic cheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) left in the wild? This according to a statement from the Iranian Department of Environment at the start of 2022. A few days ago, the only cub in captivity died of kidney failure.
As I was sifting through the controversy surrounding the translocation of southern African cheetahs to India (which you can read about in our second story below), this fact struck me as unbearably sad. And it was so under-emphasised by the media attention surrounding Project Cheetah.
Asiatic cheetahs are now, for all intents and purposes, extinct – vanished from this planet with barely a ripple of concern. And those conservationists that dedicated their lives to protecting the last of them? Some of them languish in prison, and one has died, because their camera-trap monitoring techniques were decreed “spying” by the Iranian judicial system. Where was their outcry?
WATCH: Farmer Jennifer Cloete farms sheep and goats in the mountains of the Kamiesberg, South Africa. But the wetlands her livestock graze are vulnerable. With the help of Conservation South Africa, farmers like Jennifer are able to find alternative ways to access water when the wetlands need to recover (01:58). Click here to watch
A cheetah bound for India in a South African quarantine facility, prior to translocation
On Saturday, the 18th of February, 12 more southern African cheetahs landed in India to join eight of their cohorts in Kuno National Park. Theoretically, these trailblazing cheetahs are intended to herald the long-term return of wild cheetahs to India. This project has divided conservationists along academic, ethical and philosophical lines. Critics have labelled the reintroduction “ecologically unsound”, “a vanity project”, and “grossly expensive”. Equally, experts with abundant experience in cheetah conservation have thrown their weight behind the project, highlighting the importance of restoring cheetahs to parts of their historic range and the potential benefits to Indian conservation.
Cheetahs have been extinct in India for over seven decades, but plans for their return have been afoot for many years. The first eight individuals from Namibia (after a period in quarantine) made the journey to Kuno National Park in September 2022. Amid the media furore over Project Cheetah, two groups of highly esteemed scientists – one for and one against – penned their opinions in correspondence published in Nature Ecology & Evolution. Each article neatly summarises the arguments put forward in various publications since the arrival of the first cheetahs. Read together, they highlight the complexities of the issues at play.
The argument against Project Cheetah
The first article, published in December 2022, is titled “Introducing African cheetahs to India is an ill-advised conservation attempt” and was authored by a group of experienced big-cat conservationists and scientists (Gopalaswamy et al., 2022). Many of the authors have been critical of the project since its inception. They argue that the costly plan has the potential to serve as a “distraction” instead of aiding global cheetah conservation.
Though there has yet to be scientific consensus on subspecies divisions, the Cat Classification Task Force of the IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognised four distinct subspecies of cheetah. Of these, the Southeast African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus) and the Asiatic cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) are relevant to the debate at hand. Before their extinction, the cheetahs found in India would have been Asiatic cheetahs. At present, the only remaining Asiatic cheetahs are found in Iran and are classified as Critically Endangered. In the opinion of Gopalaswamy et al. (2022), there are unknown ecological, disease and genetic risks associated with replacing Asiatic cheetahs with African ones.
The authors indicate that the plan to translocate cheetahs from Africa to India is based on three unsubstantiated claims. The first is that cheetahs have run out of space in Africa, the second is that India has sufficient space and habitat to support a cheetah population, and, finally, that translocations have successfully restored cheetah range in the past.
They cite contemporary research from the Maasai Mara from one of the authors (Dr Femke Broekhuis) that shows that cheetahs utilise disproportionately large home ranges and occur at low population densities. The authors argue that this, along with (presumably) declining cheetah numbers in Africa, makes them unsuitable as a source population for translocations. Based on this research, they also believe that the studies in Kuno National Park for the action plan may have substantially overestimated the carrying capacity. According to the action plan, the calculated carrying capacity was based on a density estimate from Namibia, which Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) suggest is outdated and possibly inaccurate.
The site of the first cheetah translocations – Kuno National Park – is a 748 km2 (74,800 hectares) park located just over 300km south of Delhi. It is unfenced and surrounded by densely populated villages and farms. Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) imply that the size and surrounding anthropogenic pressures (along with some 500 feral cattle within the park) make it a poor habitat choice for the cheetahs. Furthermore, they argue that the other destinations named in the action plan for future translocations are equally inappropriate.
Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) also distinguish between “free-ranging” and “fenced-in” cheetahs. Most cheetahs in South Africa and many from Namibia come from smaller fenced reserves. These animals cannot naturally immigrate or emigrate, so the populations must be intensively managed. The cheetahs sourced for the translocations came from such a setup. The authors write that to the best of their knowledge, they know of no reintroduction successes where fenced-in cheetahs have been successfully reintroduced into an unfenced area, even within Africa. They argue that where these fenced-in populations are managed independently without achieving self-sustaining populations, there will be an urgency to find release sites that could “trigger unplanned, hastily executed translocation programmes”.
They write that they anticipate that “adopting such a speculative and unscientific approach will lead to human-cheetah conflicts, death of the introduced cheetahs or both, and will undermine other science-based species recovery efforts, both globally and within India”.
Instead, the scientists call on India to redirect the nearly US$ 60 million total cost of Project Cheetah towards global cheetah conservation efforts, including habitat protection and connectivity and enhancing human-cheetah relations in Iran, Africa, or both. Alternatively, they suggest revising the current action plan to reintroduce cheetahs to India using a “science-based approach” to rigorously assess the policies and methods utilised. The focus should be securing India’s threatened savannahs and grasslands and avoiding the disruption of other ongoing conservation efforts, such as the reintroduction of Asiatic lions.
They conclude that “there is an urgent need for international bodies, such as the IUCN and the wider community of cheetah and carnivore biologists, to re-evaluate the purpose and practice of such intercontinental, large carnivore translocation efforts”.
Tranquilisers were administered to the cheetahs to keep them calm for the journey from South Africa to India. For more pics on Project Cheetah follow @Adriantordiffe on Instagram
The argument for Project Cheetah
In response to this correspondence, a group of vets, scientists, ecologists and cheetah conservationists published their dissenting opinion in an article titled “The case for the reintroduction of cheetahs to India” (Tordiffe et al., 2023). Many of the authors have been intimately involved in the project since its inception, and all were involved in the scientific advisement on both the Indian and southern African sides of the operation.
Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that cheetahs once occupied an ecological niche in India, which has been left vacant since their extinction. They cite previous research showing that the return of carnivores is particularly important in restoring the functional ecology of ecosystems. They suggest that the widespread human-wildlife conflict and poaching that precipitated the extinction of cheetahs in India have since been controlled through legislation and effective enforcement. Furthermore, suitable habitat, prey availability and anthropogenic pressures were thoroughly assessed before selecting Kuno National Park and other protected areas as potential reintroduction sites.
According to the Project Cheetah action plan, approximately 100,000 km2 (10 million hectares) of legally protected reserves in India lie within the historic range of the cheetah and could potentially support breeding cheetah populations. Tordiffe et al. (2023) disagree with Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) approach of using East African cheetah population densities to estimate the potential carrying capacities of the selected release sites in India. Instead, they suggest that the biomass of suitable prey will determine such densities.
In answer to Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) discussion around the Asiatic cheetahs, Tordiffe et al. (2023) point to the IUCN guidelines for population reintroductions. These require that potential source populations have adequate genetic diversity and that removing a determined number of individuals would not compromise the source population. Given the recent announcement by the Iranian Department of Environment that only 12 confirmed Asiatic cheetahs remain, there is no way they could be utilised for this initiative. Instead, Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that the southern African cheetah population has the greatest documented genetic diversity and is sufficiently large to supply founding individuals without negatively affecting their numbers.
The 12 cheetahs secured in crates in an Indian Airforce C17, making their journey from South Africa to India
The authors highlight that unpublished data indicates that the managed cheetah metapopulation in southern Africa of around 500 cheetahs is currently growing at a rate of 8.8% per year. These animals occur predominantly on smaller, fenced reserves, and translocation is vital to this metapopulation management. In South Africa alone, population viability analysis indicates that this population could sustain the removal of 29 individuals without detriment. Though they acknowledge that there are still areas in Africa that could theoretically support reintroduced cheetahs, the authors suggest that few of the sites are feasible in reality. They suggest that there are several socioeconomic, cultural and religious differences that contribute to a greater tolerance for large predators in India than in Africa, as evidenced by other large carnivore conservation initiatives in India.
Tordiffe et al. (2023) also refute the suggestion that there have been no successful translocations of “fenced-in” cheetahs into “free-ranging” environments. They cite the release of 22 cheetahs into the unfenced Zambezi Delta in Mozambique in August 2021, along with the release of 36 cheetahs onto Namibian farmlands, including some unfenced properties. With respect to the risk of disease transmission, three of the authors (and other experts) have conducted a comprehensive disease risk analysis. Though most diseases were judged to be of low or very low risk, those deemed medium risk are managed through a combination of vaccination programmes and antiparasitic treatments.
Finally, the response concedes that the suggestion by Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) that money for the project might be better invested in other cheetah conservation initiatives is “intriguing”. However, the authors suggest that this is unlikely, given that governments tend to prioritise conservation projects in their own jurisdictions.
Though Tordiffe et al. (2023) highlight the cheetahs’ potential role as an umbrella species that will benefit the “broader biodiversity conservation and livelihood goals in India”, they acknowledge that this must be evaluated once the project is completed.
The team on the ground in Kuno National Park
Final thoughts
On the 26th of January 2023, the South African Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment confirmed that India and South Africa had signed a Memorandum of Understanding. Under the terms of the MoU, 100 more cheetahs will be translocated to India over the next ten years to establish a healthy and diverse population. At the outset, there are likely to be significant losses. If the project is successful, it will likely be counted as one of the most daring conservation initiatives of the 21st century. And more importantly, cheetahs will once again stalk the grasslands and savannahs of India. If it fails, the cheetah will die, millions of dollars will be lost, and the project will be consigned to the learning curve of history.
Few meaningful conservation initiatives could ever be labelled as risk-free. With ever-shrinking wild spaces and changing climates, conservation is facing a turning point. Considered interference and substantial risks may be necessary to protect the earth’s remaining megafauna and reverse the mistakes of the past. But with these decisions will come complex ethical debates that cut to the heart of the intrinsic value of an animal, the definition of “natural”, the importance of genetics and the balance of utilitarianism. There are unlikely to be easy answers or universal agreement.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Forestscape in Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda. Coming soon as a responsible safari option – check out our news in Simon’s editorial below.
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🎤 Our HUGE news + bongos + extraordinary pics
About that exciting announcement I have hinted at a few times …
Next week I head to Rwanda for a few weeks of exploring the incredible Akagera and Nyungwe national parks. These are rising stars in Africa’s bouquet of well-managed destinations; ripe for the all-important international tourist market. Both parks are managed by African Parks (imho by far the world’s most effective conservation organisation operating in Africa) in partnership with the energetic and forward-thinking Rwandan government.
African Park’s reputation speaks for itself – 22 parks and >20 million hectares under management (check out their track record here) – and they keep growing their influence and reach every year. Now that they have secured such vast tracts of wilderness for nurturing they are increasing their focus on safari tourism as a major funding vehicle.
And that’s where we come in. Our two organisations have signed an exclusive agreement to drive bookings to the growing number of AP-managed camps & lodges within these protected areas across Africa – for all visitors except the local tourists in each country, which AP will continue to manage.
Expect much-reduced prices (compared to the norm) for your stay in paradise and genuine responsible safari opportunities where local people are the primary beneficiaries. Forget rim flow pools, crystal glass and Chef de Cuisine darling – we are talking authentic, experiential travel with all the creature comforts that you need.
More to come. For now, if you would like to be notified personally when we go live (mid-year) please email us at ukuri@africageographic.com.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6 days – From US$3,380pps
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating bucket-list experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park, and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Botswana wildlife & Victoria Falls magic – 8 days – From US$3,830pps
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in northern Botswana, with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Seek out Khwai’s predators and see the massive concentrations of elephants on the Chobe River waterfront, before being romanced by the awe-inspiring Zambezi River as it plunges into the misty gorges below Victoria Falls.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Few people know much about the striking antelope which is the subject of our main feature this week. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters. But the bongo is also one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. Read more about these fascinating creatures in our first story below.
Our Photographer of the Year gallery this week captures some of the finer details of quintessential Africa – from teeny, glistening frogs and majestic and boisterous elephants; to a three-legged leopard and young Omo Valley herders tending to their cattle at daybreak. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below.
Happy celebrating Africa!
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/the-bongo/
SECRETIVE BONGOS
The bongo is one of Africa’s most attractive antelope yet its shy nature keeps it off the safari radar. We shed light on this alluring mammal
One of the challenges of finding an exciting fact each week is that after a few years, one risks repeating oneself. This week, for example, I was very excited to tell you all about how the fur of springhares is bioluminescent. Then I realised that sounded a bit familiar…
Luckily springhares are fascinating animals associated with a plethora of fun trivia options. Did you know that in terms of acceleration and speed, springhares are better at hopping than kangaroos? It’s all to do with the cross-sectional area of their tendon structures, which are proportionately thicker and thus rapidly facilitate the transfer of force.
It comes at a cost, though, at least in terms of energy expenditure. Kangaroos and wallabies may be slower, but their energy-efficient hopping allows them to move over vast distances. Springhares are more focused on escaping the terrors of the African night.
WATCH: Madagascar is a unique biodiversity hotspot, with 80% of its flora and fauna found nowhere else on earth. However, many of these species are under threat from climate change, deforestation, hunting and illegal trade in wildlife (03:15). Click here to watch
In the gloom of an African rainforest, hulking figures lurk in the shadows between the towering trunks. The air is filled with the relentless sounds of life – chirping crickets, melodious birds and chattering primates – yet the Delphic shapes are silent but for the odd soft snort. Now and again, a break in the canopy lets through a slice of a sunbeam, lighting up a blaze of red fur. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters.
The basics of bongos
Surprisingly, few people know of the striking bongo (Tragelaphus eurycerus), despite it being one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. This partly concerns their preference for the tropical jungles and dense forests, as well as a somewhat distrustful approach to people. There are two recognised subspecies: the western/lowland bongo (T. eurycerus) in disjunct populations in West and Central Africa and the critically endangered eastern/mountain bongo (T. e. isaaci) in small, fragmented populations in Kenya.
The bongo’s bright auburn coat is perhaps its most distinctive feature, along with the white stripes that run down the flanks from the short dorsal crest. These stripes are believed to act as camouflage in dense vegetation by breaking up the animal’s outline. Bright white chevrons decorate the face and chest, emphasising body language cues in gloomy environments. Unusually for a forest-dwelling antelope, bongos are massive and are one Africa’s heavier antelope species. Though the males and females are similar in height, and both have horns, the males are considerably stockier and darken with age. It is not uncommon for older male eastern bongos to take on a rich mahogany colour.
Anyone familiar with nyala, sitatunga or kudu can immediately see the family resemblance when looking at the bongo. This tribe is known as the Tragelaphini, or spiral-horned antelope tribe and includes nine different species in two genera (for now – genetic analysis is ongoing). Despite their iconic “antelope look”, the spiral-horned antelopes belong to the subfamily Bovinae, and their closest relatives are bovines such as buffalos, bison and wild cattle. Within the tribe, bongo and sitatunga can hybridise and produce fertile offspring (known as a “bongsis”), reinforcing the theory that the two are most closely related.
Young western bongo males photographed in Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Quick facts
Shoulder height:
1.1-1.3 metres
Mass:
Males: 220-405kg
Females: 150-235kg
Gestation:
285 days
Conservation status:
Western bongo: Near Threatened
Eastern/mountain bongo: Critically Endangered
Being a Tragelaphid…
Apart from shared physical similarities like white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns, the bongo and other members of the Tragelaphus genus share several behavioural similarities. These antelopes, including nyalas, bushbucks, sitatungas and kudus, all rely on concealment in dense vegetation and are not known for their running stamina. When hiding fails and bongos are forced to flee from a predator, they will do so only as far as necessary before attempting to obscure themselves in a thicket once again. The massive ears and enormous eyes – attractive characteristics of all members of this genus – are likely an evolutionary necessity to this veiled approach to predator avoidance. All the better to see and hear them with…
Mountain nyalas share many physical characteristics with bongos, including white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns (males)
Bongo behaviour
Bongos are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular, though occasionally active during the day. They spend most of their time browsing, sometimes supplementing meals of leaves and small plants with mouthfuls of fresh grass. Studies have shown that bongos require permanent access to both water and salt. Of the herds studied within the Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in the Central African Republic, the focal points of their home ranges were all found to be clearings around waterholes and mineral licks. Small herds (seldom more than twenty individuals) of females and their youngsters hid in the forests during the day before emerging at dusk to drink and eat the mineral-rich clay soils (geophagy).
Unlike females, adult males are usually solitary once they reach sexual maturity at around two years old. Though their cryptic natures mean that bongos are relatively understudied across much of their natural distribution, research has shown that they are seasonal breeders in certain parts of their range. During these times (usually around October to January), the bulls will approach and interact with the herds searching for a receptive female. Naturally, competition with other males is likely in the mating season. Like other members of the Tragelaphus genus (especially nyalas), the bulls will avoid conflict if possible, relying on a combination of piloerection, lateral presentation, and slow-motion movements to intimidate rivals. When this fails, male fights can be vicious, prolonged, and potentially fatal.
Roughly nine months after the victor of such battles has claimed his prize, the female will give birth to one calf. These calves are hidden for at least a week before they are introduced to the rest of the herd.
A western bongo calf; adult males become solitary once they reach sexual maturity
From the west side to the east side
Overall, the bongo is classified as ‘Near Threatened’ on the IUCN Red List, but the distinction between the western and eastern subspecies of bongos has significant conservation ramifications. Both subspecies are under threat due to habitat loss and bushmeat hunting. However, numbers of eastern/mountain bongos have fallen below the minimum level necessary for a viable, sustainable population. There are believed to be fewer than 140 individuals confined to just five fragmented habitats in Kenya: Mount Kenya, the Maasai Mau Forest Complex, the SW Mau Forest, the Eburu Forest and the Aberdares Mountains. Illegal logging continues to reduce already limited available habitat, poaching and predation by lions contribute to declining numbers, and disease transmission from cattle has grave implications for their future survival.
The only things standing between the eastern subspecies and extinction in the wild are multi-pronged conservation efforts to preserve their remaining habitats and maintain genetic diversity. The bulk of this work falls to the Kenyan National Bongo Task Force and the Bongo Surveillance Project. Strategies to save the subspecies include the creation of the Mawingu Mountain Bongo Sanctuary and the gradual rewilding of captive-bred individuals. Their bright colours and placid temperaments have made bongos popular in zoos and private collections. More eastern bongos are in captivity in North America than in the wild. However, these animals are unfamiliar with the Kenyan environment and climate, excessively tame, susceptible to native diseases and predator naïve. It takes many years of intensive work before they or their offspring are ready to enter the wild.
Bongos are under threat due to habitat loss and bushmeat hunting
The bongo sasa
Interestingly, one major factor that has played a role in keeping the western bongo safe from the worst effects of bushmeat hunting is a superstition that surrounds them. In Gabon, particularly, the bongo is said to be suffused with sasa – a kind of evil power in certain animals and plants that works hand in hand with witchcraft. The sasa of the bongo is sasa a eye duru, which translates as sasa – “which is heavy”. Many believe that those foolish enough to hunt a bongo risk falling victim to seizures and madness, which can only be treated with rigorous cleaning rituals.
This superstition has probably helped reduce the number of bongos killed for bushmeat, but recent research suggests that these taboos are becoming less prevalent.
Where can I see one in the wild?
The best places to see bongos in the wild are in the Republic of the Congo, in either Odzala-Kokoua National Park or Dzanga-Sangha National Park. Staking out one of the baïs (forest clearings) at sunset offers the strongest chance of catching them as they leave the forest to come and drink.
Want to see bongos in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your bongo-seeking safari – details below this story.
Enjoying the rare experience of seeing a bongo in the wild can be nothing but rewarding. The bongo is unequivocally one of Africa’s most graceful and attractive antelope, yet their shy natures and love of obscurity have kept them largely off the safari radar.
Bongos can be spotted in Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Himba women dancing at sunset. Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2021 entrant
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First photos + connected elephants + Sabi Sands safari
It’s been raining almost non-stop in the Lowveld since I expressed concern a few weeks ago about the lack thereof – and now we are experiencing floods! Happiness mixed with worries about the local people affected by rising waters and raging rivers. To our clients arriving for your stunning Greater Kruger summer safari: expect a few logistical issues due to flooding rivers and no-go muddy game-drive areas. Safari njema
Having dropped out of social media ‘discussions’ about trophy hunting years back (same angry people on both sides sprouting ideological nonsense), I was drawn to a dramatic outburst by a respected pro-trophy hunting academic who felt offended that a colleague had described her latest post as containing ‘misinformation’. Her loud and clear clarion call to adoring supporters was sounded, and the usual attack dogs obediently tore strips out of her detractor – going way beyond the damage to her reputation. Blood-lust satiated, and order was restored. Another day in the cut-throat life of social media influencers in the wildlife-industry space…
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Our first weekly gallery for Photographer of the Year 2023 is here! And we couldn’t be happier with the submissions. Our entrants have delivered impressive shots this week: rare lemurs in Madagascar, a black leopard in Laikipia, a post-partum leopard, and even the intricate details of a dainty nose fly. This is probably one of the best first galleries we’ve had in all the years of this competition. A sign of the magnificent images to come in the next few months? Check out the gallery below.
Here’s a tip for aspiring Photographer of the Year entrants: Rather than submitting all your entries in one go, spread your entries over a few weeks. This will ensure your multiple, quality images don’t outcompete each other for a spot in our weekly galleries.
Habitat connectivity is essential to the conservation of elephants. New research based on three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond – providing valuable insights that may aid a sustainable future for elephants. Read more in our second story below.
Tuesday was Valentine’s Day, and being the die-hard romantic I am, I’ve been saving this particular fact for just such an occasion.
Did you know that some female dragonflies have been known to fake death to avoid unwanted advances from males? They simply freeze mid-flight, crash to the ground and lie there motionless on their backs until the overly enthusiastic male loses interest.
And that’s all from me for this week.
Celebrating the Bateleurs
In our forum this week, Carla Geyser shares some insight about the work of The Bateleurs – an environmental air force made up of 150 volunteer pilots.
This group of civilians take to the skies to help protect Africa’s wildlands and creatures. The Bateleurs undertake important missions in partnership with various conservation organisations, from wildlife population counts to relocating animals and birds throughout southern Africa. Read more about the Bateleurs and their recent missions flying leopard tortoises – and one very special turtle – across South Africa, in Carla’s forum post.
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant Andrew Macdonald shares the epic journey he took to capture his image of the rare and critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka in Madagascar – overcoming the challenges presented by tricky lighting and terrain (04:29). Click here to watch
New research explores the value of habitat connectivity in facilitating the movement of elephants
Habitat connectivity is one of the most critical concepts in the conservation of iconic animal species – and one of the most challenging to achieve as the human population expands. New research based on nearly three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond.
Many of the world’s remaining large mammal species survive in small, fragmented populations isolated in protected areas and surrounded by a sea of human development. Around 80% of Africa’s savannah elephants occur in Southern Africa, predominantly in protected areas in the form of national parks and reserves. Though the space available to them is significant (nearly a million km2), connectivity between populations is a vital consideration for future population viability and persistence. Confining elephants to designated protected areas without the possibility of movement risks severe demographic challenges and the loss of genetic diversity.
To investigate how elephants utilise habitats across southern Africa, scientists examined over a million telemetry observations from 254 collared elephants spanning nearly three decades. Their goal was to determine areas of feasible connectivity between populations and, conversely, where movement between populations is no longer possible. To do this, they set about determining “where elephants want to go” and exploring how human actions restrict this movement. They then investigated how these factors vary across different landscapes through a series of case studies of distinct habitats in southern Africa. Finally, the authors describe the specific routes of connectivity that remain potentially accessible to elephant populations.
“Where do elephants want to go?”
Of the 252 different vegetation zones mapped by the Southern Africa Regional Science Initiative Project in Southern Africa, the telemetry data revealed that the elephants were utilising 83 of these zones. The authors then investigated the tree species occurring in these regions and predicted that a further 76 vegetation zones might be suitable for elephants.
Previous research has shown that elephants prefer to avoid steep slopes, as confirmed by the telemetry data in the new study. 95.8% of the recorded data points occurred on predominantly flat terrain. Consequently, hilly terrain acts as a barrier to elephant movement. Unsurprisingly, the presence of larger river systems also influenced elephant distribution, with 94.7% of elephant data points lying within 10km of a seventh-order river or higher. (Streams and rivers can be classified as numbered “orders”, with a first-order stream being the smallest and the Amazon River considered a 12th-order stream.)
The shaded areas in each map represent regions that would be suitable for elephants as determined by each factor considered individually. These factors include vegetation type (A), slope (B), distance to rivers (C), human population (D), cattle density (E), crop probability (F), and protected areas (IUCN I-VI) (G). The intersection of these seven layers provides a projection of suitable landscapes for elephants (H). Huang et al. (2022)
“How human actions restrict elephant movements”
As expected, the researchers found a strong relationship between areas with low agricultural potential, human densities, and elephant movement. This was the case even outside protected areas. Fences almost invariably acted as a restriction to elephant movement but for the few instances where gaps allowed for their passage. Unfenced areas allowed elephants to move freely, including beyond the boundaries of protected areas.
Researchers found that water availability significantly affected elephant dispersal in Namibia
Case studies on the movements of elephants
Having identified the factors (natural and anthropogenic) that influence elephant movement, the authors then used regional case studies to contextualise this information. To do so, they assigned the elephant movement data into eight “clusters” of protected areas:
Etosha (Namibia)
Chobe (northern Botswana, Zambezi region of Namibia [formerly called the Caprivi Strip] and parts of north-west Zimbabwe)
Kafue (Zambia)
Limpopo, which includes Kruger National Park (South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique)
Luangwa (Zambia and Malawi)
Maputo (southern Mozambique and South Africa)
Niassa (Mozambique)
Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe)
For each cluster, they systematically examined where the elephants would want to move to, where they dispersed in reality and what factors influenced this movement. For example, fences and water availability created significant barriers to elephant dispersal in Namibia, South Africa, and Botswana. In Etosha National Park in Namibia, the elephants were prevented from dispersing east to the wetter regions of the country by fences surrounding the park. However, gaps in the southwestern fence line allowed them to move west in the arid communal conservancies. Here, the elephants were restricted to dry riverbeds where they could dig for water, but human-elephant conflict has increased, particularly due to competition over water resources. Likewise, the international border fence between Namibia and Botswana acts as a barrier to elephant movement, even within the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area.
Through these case studies, the researchers also identified areas of feasible movement, such as between populations in the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (including the Kruger National Park) and Banhine and Zinave National Parks. They also acknowledged that connectivity is no longer achievable in some areas, as in Malawi (one of the most densely populated African countries) and between the southern and northern sections of Mozambique. In these regions, the growth of the human population and the increased need for agricultural land make the creation of corridors impossible.
Mapping elephant connections
This painstaking process allowed the researchers to create a series of maps to illustrate the interplay of various factors. “[These] maps help us to consider the prospects of how we can improve the connections between the different protected areas that harbour elephants in Southern Africa,” said one of the lead authors, Professor Rudi Van Aarde.
“Map of notable routes of connectivity or lack thereof. Predicted suitable habitat (green), protected areas with elephants (orange), and protected areas without elephants (grey).” Huang et al. (2022)
From fences to human-wildlife conflict, the challenges to elephant habitat connectivity are substantial, but many of these areas represent the last opportunities to create such linkages between protected areas. The authors are particularly critical of the impact of fences on elephant populations. They argue that while there are unequivocally situations where fencing is appropriate, it is essential to balance the need for fences against connectivity.
They also acknowledge that the potential to connect elephant populations is most dependent on socio-political will, and it will also inevitably require local community members to coexist with elephants. Yet, for all the effort needed, the researchers conclude that, “protecting the connections identified here for dispersal may represent some of our best chances at a sustainable future for elephants.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Afternoon delights. Elephants putting on a show in Khwai Community Concession, Okavango Delta
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15 top wildlife experiences + all about giraffes 🦒
There is a trend on my Facebook feed to ‘Photoshop’ photos of birds – to resemble a gaudy box of smarties – dashes of bright shiny colours that assault the eye. Sounds like fun, and any reasonable person would know that this is art and not reality. BUT, read the comments and you realise that many people think these are real-life depictions. Oh boy 🙄. Elsewhere we see artificial intelligence software winning fine art competitions – feeding the fakeness. The ongoing process of humans moving to a virtual world continues. Thank goodness there is still a bunch of us who celebrate reality on Earth – warts and all.
90% of Kenya’s energy generated is via solar, wind and geothermal. The country’s transition from fossil fuels to low-carbon energy sources has been slowed down by legitimate objection from communities in the affected areas. Imagine a (real) world where local people benefit directly from the environmentally friendly energy generated on their land – that would be a big middle finger to the fossil fuel industry!
As I write this it’s raining cats and dogs. Every part of me is tingling 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Chitake Springs – 6 days – From US$3,310 pps
This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking in-your-face wildlife drama. Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is growing increasingly popular with photographers, as it consistently delivers raw, untamed wildlife action. There are only 2 spots left for this safari, departing in September 2023.
Rwanda gorilla trekking – 3 days – From US$2,630 pps
This is the perfect gorilla-trekking safari for time-challenged travellers. This adventure will take you through the pristine afro-montane forests of Volcanoes National Park, packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And the cherry on the cake will be a mountain gorilla silverback and his family in the depths of paradise.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
From convening with mountain gorillas, to witnessing towering tuskers up close or being surrounded by thousands of wildebeest on their migration journey, there are a few iconic wildlife experiences that many of us have on our bucket lists. With so many opportunities for unique exploits on the vast continent, choosing the ultimate pilgrimage for that once-in-a-lifetime adventure can be tricky. That’s why teamAG has put our heads together to highlight 15 of the top wildlife encounters to pursue in Africa – see our first story below.
We have been pleasantly surprised lately to find how wildly popular giraffes are with the AG tribe. It seems that you can’t get enough of these (somewhat) gentle giants! And so, we’ve put together a bumper giraffe special, on everything there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature. Read more in our second story.
Next week we will be featuring our first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2023… we are brimming with anticipation. Have you entered your pics yet?
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe/
THE GIRAFFE
The giraffe is a wonder of evolution, & a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Learn all about the planet’s tallest creature
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
What do bats and dolphins have in common? The answer is (somewhat obviously) not very much, but they do hold one fundamental physiological process in common: they both use echolocation to locate their prey.
But hey, many seemingly unrelated animals share physical traits and abilities, right? Insects, birds and bats have wings; humans and blue-eyed black lemurs can have blue eyes; many animal families (like primates and pandas) have opposable “thumbs” etc. But here is the interesting part…
Did you know that echolocation evolved independently in dolphins and bats through the same genetic mutations? So while we have generally assumed that convergent evolution arose through different gene mutations arriving at the same result, the bat and the dolphin showed that sometimes these traits occur through the same sequence of genetic steps.
Easing human-elephant conflict
Evelyn Poole, rep for our project partner Elephants Alive, writes on our forum:
“When elephants are under threat, the entire ecosystem suffers. Thriving ecosystems rely on connections between protected nature reserves. However, these corridors intersect with human settlements and cause increasing conflict between humans and elephants. New research by Elephants Alive identifies innovative solutions to mitigate this conflict:
🏍 Use of rapid response units to de-escalate conflict situations and protect people & elephants
🌾 Planting elephant-unpalatable crops to protect AND supplement farmers livelihoods
Combining these solutions with proven methods, such as beehive fences by Save the Elephants, will provide a sustainable answer to promoting coexistence and increase tolerance of path-finding elephants.”
WATCH: Thousands of tonnes of critically endangered abalone have been poached from South Africa’s coast over the past few years, depleting natural populations. But can offering an alternative source through abalone aquaculture curb poaching? This abalone farm in Doringbay is creating employment and helping to secure the future of the species (02:15). Click here to watch
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
Guest payments go into a third-party TRUST ACCOUNT - protecting them in the unlikely event of a financial setback on our part. Also, we are members of SATSA who attest to our integrity, legal compliance and financial stability.
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? 
Private landowners in South Africa now collectively support the largest population of white rhinos on the African continent. More than half of the continent’s rhinos are in private hands. This was the inevitable outcome of declining wild populations and increasing numbers of rhino found on private land. It brings into stark relief the importance of the private sector in rhino conservation. Given the rising costs associated with protecting rhinos, what will it take to build resilience in the private industry?
