For an entirely terrestrial animal, it is astonishing how genets seem to embody the very essence of water. Perhaps this seems a somewhat tortured comparison, but there is no other way to describe how these lithe little predators flow over obstacles, up trees and through the undergrowth. Though frequently encountered on safari (albeit usually just a brief glimpse), few realise how diverse the genet family truly is.
A genet-ic confusion
In fairness, one might be forgiven for failing to keep track of the complexities involved in genet taxonomy – even the scientists are still battling to get it right. Genets belong to the Viverridae family, with civets as their closest relatives. But the viverrids (genets and civets), mustelids (badgers and otters) and herpestids (mongooses) have always presented something of a taxonomic imbroglio for experts. For now, suffice to say that the IUCN Red List currently recognises 14 species of genet that slink, bound, and prowl across the continent. However, this list is likely to increase, and genetic and behavioural research has already identified at least three genets due to graduate from subspecies to a fully-fledged species classification.
Before the DNA technologies that have made such phylogenetic calls infinitely easier, the historic confusion surrounding the viverrids could be attributed to their mixed-bag morphology. Genets look for all the world as though a cat and a mongoose became entangled in an amorous muddle a few thousand years ago. Their bodies are indisputably feline, albeit with shorter legs and longer tails, but their facial features are sharp and mongoose-like. This only shows how decidedly deceptive looks can be because, while genets are indeed family cousins of the mongooses, they are more closely related to hyenas than cats.
Whatever their species and subspecies status, most genets are all but identical at a cursory glance. They all have a black dorsal stripe, spotted coats, banded tails and high-set oval ears. With needle-sharp teeth and a pounce to rival any African felid, these nocturnal little predators spend their nights terrorising tiny mammals, birds, and reptiles on the ground and in the trees (or begging chop bones from delinquent lodge guests).
Genet bodies are undisputedly feline
Spot the difference
Of the 14 recognised species, the rufous-coloured servaline genet (Genetta servalina), the not-actually-all-that-big giant forest genet (G. victoriae) and the mysterious but presumably piscivorous aquatic genet (G. piscivora) all inhabit the Central African rainforests of the Congo region. The delicate Hausa genet (G. thierryi), the obscure Bourlon’s genet (G. bourloni), the vulnerable crested genet (G. cristata), pardine genet (G. pardine), the Johnston’s genet (G. johnstoni) and the long-missing (but probably not extinct) king genet (G. poensis) all occupy West Africa. The Ethiopian genet (G. abyssinica) lives up to its name by inhabiting Ethiopia (and Eritrea, Somalia, Djibouti, and Sudan), and the miombo genet (G. angolensis) wanders the woodlands of Angola, Zambia and southern Tanzania. The Cape genet (G. tigrina) is restricted to the southern and eastern regions of South Africa.
The common genet (G. genetta) theoretically has the widest distribution of all species, extending across most of Africa and is the only species to occur outside of the continent, in southwestern Europe and the Middle East. It is closely followed by the large-spotted genet (G. maculata – also called the rusty-spotted genet), also found throughout most of sub-Saharan Africa.
The observant among you will have noticed the glaring omission of the small-spotted genet from the list. That is because, for now, the small-spotted genet is still officially considered a subspecies of the common genet. This could potentially come as a rather devastating realisation for southern African guides who have spent their careers double- and triple-checking which of the two species usually has the black tail tip (it’s the large-spotted, by the way) when hurriedly trying to distinguish between the two by the light of a spotlight. The good news is that the South African small-spotted genet (soon to be G. felina) is one of the three genets that will likely soon be recognised as separate species. The same goes for the Letaba genet (G. letabae), previously a subspecies of the large-spotted genet (happy news, but for those tasked with distinguishing the various individuals!)
Both the common and the large-spotted genets are believed to be “superspecies” comprising several valid species as yet unknown to science. This would explain their extensive distributions and makes it likely that there are far more genets in Africa than we realise.
The small-spotted genet is currently recognised as a subspecies of the common genet
A genet by any name (will still smell)
With the possible limited exception of the aquatic genet (of which almost nothing is known), the genet species all occupy a similar ecological niche as small and adaptable predators. Their palate is diverse, and while they are capable and ferocious hunters, they will readily scavenge and consume seeds and fruits. Most hunting and foraging activities are conducted on the ground, but genets are equally at home in the trees and generally opt for arboreal hiding spaces where possible. Apart from mothers and kits, they are strictly solitary and most active just after dusk and before dawn.
Genets are naturally cryptic animals, making the study of their behavioural nuances challenging. Olfactory communication appears to be the cornerstone of their social interactions, and they have well-developed scent glands on the flanks, hind legs and perineum. The pheromones in the exceptionally pungent secretions communicate the usual combination of sex, social and reproductive statuses to other genets. The males also mark home ranges with urine spray, and both sexes contribute faeces to specific latrine sites. Genets also use body language cues and a variety of vocalisations, from “chirps” and purrs to growls and hisses.
Genets show a preference for arboreal hiding places
Kitted out genets
The courtship dance of genets seldom observed in the wild is a brief but sinuous affair. The male follows enthusiastically behind the female as she slinks in random circles and patterns. Around 70 days later, the female will seek out a suitable tree hollow or burrow and give birth to up to four babies (known as genet kits), each weighing less than 100 grams. They begin to eat solid food at around six weeks old but will only start hunting for themselves by about four months.
Though the kits grow quickly, theirs is a scary and wild world, and everything from owls to leopards are potential threats. Those that survive promptly learn to stay close to cover and dash between hidey holes, so sightings of genets are usually fleeting. The exception to this occurs around human habitation and lodges, as they are quick to habituate to the presence of people and may even begin to associate these areas with an abundance of food and a (relative) absence of predators. Many a safari guest is treated to the sight of a genet curled in the rafters of the thatch or padding insouciantly through the dining area.
A young genet kit takes refuge in a tree
Pet genets
As with many of Africa’s small- and medium-sized (and even, on occasion, large) predators like servals and otters, there is a well-established but ever-increasing trend of keeping genets as exotic pets. While the majority of genet species populations are considered stable, and the pet trade does not threaten them at this stage, the practice of keeping wild animals in domestic situations almost invariably ends poorly for the animal. Young kits are cuddly and affectionate, as is natural for most mammal babies. However, as they mature, adult genets revert to their solitary state and may become aggressive, particularly around food. They also retain the instinct to scent mark and are subjected to invasive surgeries to remove the offending scent glands. Robbed of natural expression of their wild inclinations, pet genets often become neurotic and may even self-mutilate from anxiety and boredom.
Final thoughts
A wild genet, viewed in its natural habitat, is a beautiful and graceful creature to behold while on an African safari. The fluid movements of their lithe and agile forms, combined with alert and intelligent eyes, make them one of the continent’s more captivating offerings.
It’s an iconic yet incongruous image: a lion strolling across rolling grasslands, all attitude and defiance against the backdrop of a vibrant capital city’s shimmering sprawl. In the heart of Kenya’s capital, Nairobi National Park is one of Africa’s most unique landscapes, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation. No other protected space engenders this deeply poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other.
Nairobi National Park
Nairobi National Park is exactly what the name suggests – a national park pressed against a capital city. Some of Nairobi’s busiest road networks run along the northern boundaries, and the runway of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is less than five kilometres from the park’s fence. Schools, shopping malls and every conceivable modern convenience lie just a stone’s throw from an open savannah where prides of lion stalk through the grass and herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons.
Herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons
Apart from the intrinsic convenience of such an arrangement, it is the bizarre cognitive dissonance that attracts the park’s annual flood of visitors. This is no zoo, and the animals are as wild as those of the rural regions more often associated with traditional safari fame. Moreover, though the 117km2 (11,700 hectares) park is small compared to other Kenyan giants like Tsavo East and West National Parks or the Maasai Mara National Reserve, it punches far above its weight in historical and conservation value.
For fairly obvious reasons, the entire northern curve of the reserve, including the western and eastern edges, is fenced where it abuts the city. However, the southern boundary, which follows the undulating Mbagathi River, is open to the Kitengela Game Conservation Area to the south. The animals can move in and out of the park through a wildlife corridor stretching to the Athi-Kapiti Plains to the southeast. Nairobi National Park thus plays a vital role in the greater Athi-Kapiti ecosystem, facilitating the seasonal migration of many of its animals.
A giraffe strides along the Nairobi skyline
Kifaru’s Ark
Seemingly unperturbed by their proximity to civilisation, the park’s wildlife thrives in the surprising diversity of habitats, including rolling plains, lush forests, marshlands, and stretches of riverine valley. Of the Big 5, only elephants are absent, and the park’s black rhinos are probably the most celebrated residents (to find African safaris that offer the whole Big 5 experience, click here). There are few places in Africa where the chances of encountering a black rhino are as high as in Nairobi National Park. According to Kenyan authorities, the park is home to around a hundred of these endangered pachyderms. Southern white rhinos are present as well, though in smaller numbers, and the park’s success in rhino conservation has earned it the nickname “Kifaru (meaning ‘rhino’ in Swahili) Ark”.
Southern white rhinos occur in small numbers in the park
The IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognises the park as a Lion Conservation Unit. At the latest count, over forty lions are wandering the park’s confines. Cheetahs and leopards are less frequently seen, and encounters tend to be fleeting. However, their smaller spotted cousin, the serval, is a common sight. Nairobi National Park is considered one of the best parks in Kenya for these magnificent little hunters. Time spent with servals is guaranteed to be rewarding as they are almost constantly on the move, usually hunting for rodents and birds in the long grasses. Watching the spring-loaded pounce of a serval in action is wild poetry in motion.
Long-limbed giraffes and ostriches delicately pick their way across the plains, outcompeting distant skyscrapers to dominate the horizon while herds of eland nibble through the open woodlands. Impalas, hartebeests, gazelles (Thomson’s and Grant’s) and zebras are ubiquitous, and hippos and crocodiles lurk in the park’s rivers and dams. As evening draws in, the whoops of spotted hyenas and howls of black-backed jackals set up the nightly chorus, cloaking the city’s sounds and creating the impression of a wilderness far removed from humanity’s mark.
Nairobi National Park is an important Lion Conservation Unit, recognised by the IUCN Cat Specialist Group
Kenya’s many migrations
Kenya is famed for the Maasai Mara section of the Great Migration – an annual circular journey of nearly two million wildebeests and zebras endlessly searching for fresh grazing. However, few people realise that East Africa was once home to several migrations and animal movements as the seasons and rainfall dictated water availability and food abundance. As is the case with thousands of ecosystems across multiple continents, humanity’s relentless growth and development put an end to these ancient cycles, as fences, roads, and cities sprang up to block their paths.
However, some of these migrations still occur on a far smaller scale. One such example is the movement of animals from Nairobi National Park to the plains of Athi-Kapiti and beyond. During the wetter months, herds of wildebeest, along with an assortment of other antelopes and zebras, disperse across the open plains of Athi-Kapiti. As the rain dries up and the long dry season sets in, many of these animals travel back north to the reliable water points in Nairobi National Park.
Gauging the historic routes and scale of all-but-extinct animal migrations is a complex exercise, often involving no small amount of guesswork. Though impossible to know for sure, it is likely that the Athi-Kapiti migration once involved vast numbers of animals (including elephants) and saw wildlife moving all the way north past Nairobi to the permanent streams flowing from Mount Kenya. Sadly, today, the Athi-Kapiti migration has all but collapsed due to habitat loss and fragmentation. The thousands of wildebeest seen in the park at the end of the 20th century are down to just a few hundred. Yet migrations are known to recover when obstructions are removed, and nascent Kenyan conservancies hold much promise for maintaining wildlife corridors.
A small herd of Coke’s hartebeest, known locally as a “kongoni”
Free as a bird
Less restricted by terrestrial impediments, the annual migration of bird species to Nairobi National Park continues largely unabated. The birding in the national park is even more impressive than the diversity of mammal life. An astonishing 520 bird species have been recorded – one of Kenya’s highest counts of any national park. Iconic Kenyan grassland species like the oddly stylish secretary birds and loquacious yellow-throated longclaws abound, and flocks of flamboyant grey-crowned cranes are commonplace. Jackson’s widowbirds, lesser falcons, Madagascar pond-herons, corncrakes and even the occasional shoebill: with the diversity of habitats on display, it is not impossible for keen birders to rack up a checklist of 200 different species in a day.
Explore & stay in Nairobi National Park
Many visitors take advantage of the proximity to Nairobi and choose one of the more luxurious lodge options on the park’s periphery. Alternatively, some choose to stay in the city and immerse themselves in Nairobi’s eclectic (if occasionally chaotic) atmosphere.
The park’s small size means it can be easily explored in a day, but the natural kaleidoscope of plant, bird and animal life ensures that extended stays are never dull. The remaining migrating ungulates return to the park during the long dry season from late June until October, making this the best time for wildlife viewing. However, the park is generally accessible year-round.
Within Nairobi National Park, there are several unfenced picnic sites to stop for a few hours, absorb the ambience and munch on some brunch (nothing builds an appetite like an early morning safari). One such picnic area is at the park’s most popular attraction, the Ivory Burning Site Monument. Here, the Kenyan President, Daniel Arap Moi, set fire to twelve tons of ivory in 1989. The image of the burning tusks made headlines worldwide – a profound and powerful statement of conservation intent from the Kenyan nation. Since then, several stockpiles of seized ivory and rhino horn have been set alight as a commitment against poaching.
After a meaningful but emotionally taxing visit to the Ivory Burning Site, a trip to the world-famous David Sheldrick Trust’s wildlife orphanage may be in order. Here, visitors can meet hand-reared baby elephants and, occasionally, rhino orphans before they are deemed old enough to be released back into the wild. The nearby Giraffe Centre also offers a close encounter with endangered Nubian giraffes (also known as Rothschild’s giraffes).
Find out about Kenya for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or we can build one just for you.
Over forty lions are present in Nairobi National Park
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Bush & beach + vultures released + everything Mara
It’s almost August – prime safari season – when we get all twitchy to head out. Oh, the smell of wild sage, those epic dusty sunsets and dawn choruses. AND a last-minute special offer has landed on our desks!
Fancy 11 days (21-31 August) on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana – touring Moremi, Khwai, Savute and Chobe Riverfront? How about tracking the big cats and wild dogs across the dry savanna, gliding silently down meandering Okavango Delta waterways in search of glittering birds and drifting along Chobe River seeking the large elephant herds?
A few weeks ago, curious conservationists and vulture lovers gathered to witness an incredible spectacle just outside Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger. A number of vultures, treated after surviving a mass poisoning event, were set to be released back into the wild. A few members of teamAG stood by to watch these lucky vultures crash out of their crates and dart towards freedom – all thanks to efforts by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT). Our first story below highlights the plight of these vultures, and the innovative new vulture ambulance launched by the EWT.
Choosing between bush or beach for a holiday break can be a conundrum that tears friends and families asunder. Witness wildlife in action or relax on Africa’s sandy beaches? Luckily, we’ve found the solution: seven incredible African destinations that offer the best of both worlds, allowing you to explore the bush in the morning and head to the ocean or inland lake in the afternoon. Check out our second story below.
The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s most popular safari destinations. Countless visitors are drawn to the Mara River crossings during the wildebeest migration season, while others choose to seek out the incredible wildlife action taking place in the low season. For everything you need to plan your next Maasai Mara safari, check out our third post below.
Fancy a last minute special on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana? Or a special offer that will have you on the beach before the end of September? Read on, and reach out to our travel team now.
Botswana Classic – Fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$5,130pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this last minute special high-season rate of US$5,130pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023. Only 6 spots left!
Stay at Thonga Beach Lodge, KZN, South Africa
Thonga Beach Lodge is a luxury beach lodge that lies deep in South Africa’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Expect white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Get in touch and don’t miss out on this stay 4, pay 3 special offer – valid for September 2023 only.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
As a general rule, I avoid repetition when it comes to the facts I select for our newsletter each week. However, I simply couldn’t resist this week – partly due to the fortuitous timing but mainly for the beautiful irony.
Last week, I spoke about the link between the shape of birds’ beaks and the nesting material they select. One thing I failed to mention was that some bird species fortify their nests with a barrier of spears in the form of thorns, spines and even, on occasion, barbed wire. But here is the irony: in Europe (and probably many other parts of the world), it has become popular to use “anti-bird” spikes to deter birds from sitting in trees or on buildings. Without putting too fine a point on it, the intention is to stop them from defecating on whatever happens to be below.
In a laughable turn of affairs, did you know that Eurasian magpies have been found using these anti-bird strips as nesting material? They have taken these horrendous representations of our disconnect from nature and turned them into works of art. I love it.
An exceptional Kafue wilderness experience
Ulrike Krocker, who recently travelled with us to Kafue National Park, shares the highlights of her safari:
From the moment I was met at Lusaka till I arrived back from my stay at Kafue National Park, everything was perfectly organised.
Fig Tree Camp captured me with it’s charm and dedicated staff and inspired “Out of Africa” moments. At Mukambi Lodge I loved my tent with a balcony facing the river. The wildlife sightings continued daily, but the highlight was witnessing hunting wild dogs. During my six days I counted 19 individual lions. I did not count the hundreds of pukus and many other antelope species, elephants, numerous crocs, and hippos that we spotted. And of course we marked the obligatory leopard off our list too.
A big thank you to all the people who made this wonderful safari possible!
Feel inspired to book your next safari with Africa Geographic but hesitant to book a solo safari? Not to worry, teamAG have some advice for you.
WATCH: David Daballen is an ambassador and warrior for elephants. During the past 20 years, he’s been involved in more than 100 collaring operations. In this video, the Tusk Award celebrates David’s work with elephants as he continues to advocate for the importance of wildlife corridors (03:55). Click here to watch
Vultures, rescued with the assistance of the Vulture Ambulance and treated for poisoning, are released into the wild just outside Hoedpsruit
On a bright clear day in July, just outside the small bushveld town of Hoedspruit, members of the public (including several members of teamAG) gathered to watch the release of rehabilitated vultures back into the wild. It was a joyous moment for the crowds as 10 birds (six white-backed, one lappet-faced, one hooded, and two Cape vultures) launched themselves from their crates and took to the skies. But these vultures were the lucky ones – eight of these had survived a mass poisoning event that claimed the lives of one bateleur, four lions (including three cubs), and 45 vultures.
The surviving vultures owe their lives to the concerted efforts of the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) Birds of Prey Programme Lowveld team. On the 16th of June, 2023, John Davies and Dr Lindy Thomson responded to a report of a poisoning incident in the Greater Kruger area. The first two white-backed vultures were found in grave condition just before darkness descended and rushed to Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre (Moholoholo). The next day, the rescue team (now supplemented by SANParks rangers, SANParks Honorary Rangers and veterinary professionals) continued the search over several gruelling hours, scouring the area and carrying critically ill birds back to the EWT’s specialised Vulture Ambulance. Ultimately, six white-backed vultures, one lappet-faced vulture and one hooded vulture made it to Moholoholo to be rehabilitated over the next two weeks.
A white-backed vulture is examined by members of the EWT
Vultures in crisis
Poisoning incidents such as this are devastatingly common, especially in high-risk areas such as the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (which includes the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves). Since January 2019, 796 vultures have died in this region.
Vultures in Africa are in crisis. Since the early 2000s, populations of most species have plummeted, with some populations declining as much as 97% in just a few short decades and many on the verge of collapse. Though habitat loss and fragmentation, collisions with powerlines and wind turbines, nesting disruption, and lead poisoning (from lead-based ammunition used in hunting and culling) are all contributing causes, mass poisoning events have the most destructive consequences for local populations. Depending on the time frame and the size of the poisoned carcass, one such incident can claim the lives of hundreds of vultures at a time. To date, the largest known mass vulture mortality event occurred in Guinea-Bissau in 2020 and resulted in the deaths of over 2,000 vultures.
The poisonings are usually motivated by the trade of vulture parts for ritual and religious use (or bushmeat consumption, depending on the region). Across sub-Saharan Africa, but especially in Southern and West Africa, vultures are valued for their use in traditional medicine. They are utilised to treat various physical and mental ailments and provide clairvoyant powers, good fortune, foresight and increased intelligence. The trade is supplied by poachers who lace carcasses with easily accessible agricultural pesticides such as Temik (aldicarb), a potent carbamate poison colloquially known as “Two Step” (so named for the two steps its victims take before they die). The approach is indiscriminate and frequently results in a massacre of other scavengers and predators.
Apart from deliberate poisoning, vultures may also be incidental victims of poison-laced carcasses meant to target land-based livestock predators such as jackals or lions. Furthermore, the rapid increase in elephant and rhino poaching has also increased the risk to vultures. Poachers have been known to poison the carcasses to kill vultures to avoid alerting authorities to their activities.
Treating a white-backed vulture during rehabilitation
Vultures are long-lived birds that are slow to mature and breed. They are fascinating to witness while on safari (let us help you see them in the wild), and each breeding pair is estimated to raise a single offspring to fledging once every one to two years. With mass poisoning incidents on the rise and vulture populations in steep decline, scientists have warned that many of Africa’s vulture species could be extinct within the next few decades. In response to these alarm bells, the IUCN Vulture Specialist Group prompted a reassessment of the conservation status of several species. The severity of their findings is summarised in the table below:
Threatened vulture species of Africa and their IUCN Red List conservation status in 2021
Hooded vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Ruppell’s Vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
White-backed vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Cape vulture
Vulnerable
Lappet-faced vulture
Endangered (Vulnerable in 2006)
White-headed vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Egyptian vulture
Endangered
Eurasian griffon vulture
Least concern (but with several African populations now locally extinct)
Lammergeier
Near-threatened (Least concern in 2006)
The Vulture Ambulance
These mass poisoning events often occur in inaccessible areas far from rehabilitation centres. The birds that survive are invariably in critical condition and desperate need of emergency medical treatment. These realities prompted the EWT (with the assistance of various donors) to create a world-first Vulture Ambulance designed explicitly for mass poisoning events. The ambulance includes a mobile clinic, first-aid station and all equipment necessary to stabilise poisoned survivors. The customised crates can accommodate up to 20 birds at a time and allow easy access to each patient without disturbing neighbouring birds. They can even remain in the ambulance overnight when rescue efforts prove time-consuming.
The ambulance had been strategically placed in the high-risk Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and proved effective in the latest poisoning event. The EWT hopes to develop more ambulance units to increase the number of birds that survive these catastrophic events.
How can you help?
Vultures play a vital ecological role in Africa and are essential to maintaining healthy ecosystems. As obligate scavengers, they rapidly remove carcasses and substantially limit the spread of disease. Their absence will have dire consequences for other wildlife and human health throughout the continent.
The EWT and other conservation organisations should be lauded for their efforts to protect the continent’s remaining vultures. It is a labour-intensive, emotionally draining and extremely costly process and support from the general public is always greatly valued (and indispensable).
A white-backed vulture, tagged for tracking, is released into the wild
Further reading
For the shocking scale of vulture poisoning over recent years, search our stories page for “vultures.”
To take in the best of Africa’s wildlife offerings or relax on its sandy beaches, soothed by the sound of the azure ocean waves? Bush or beach – a conundrum that could tear friends and families asunder when selecting their next holiday destination. Fortunately, there are a few magical destinations on the continent where one can have the best of both worlds in one spot.
So, where in Africa can you find these all-in-one destinations, where both the bush and beach are a hop, skip and jump away from your lodge? Where species such as whales, dolphins, beach-loving elephants and lemurs can add to your bush experience? Have a look at a list of our favourites.
As the name suggests, Addo is famous for its elephant sightings, but recent years have seen the park expand to include the Woody Cape Nature Reserve, the Alexandria dune field and a marine portion extending to St. Croix Island and Bird Island. Thus, Addo is the only place in Africa where visitors can see the ‘Big 7’ – the ‘Big 5’ plus dolphins and whales.
Addo Elephant National Park offers visitors the chance to see the Big 7 (the Big 5 plus dolphins and whales), presenting a rich wildlife-viewing experience
The greater Addo ecosystem extends to several private reserves offering all the bells and whistles of the conventional safari experience, with the bonus of being just a short drive from the magnificent Eastern Cape coastline.
For breathtaking views and luxurious chalets, check out Kuzuko Lodge, bordering the national park.
Addo offers long stretches of beach and dense bushveld
iSimangaliso Wetland Park, South Africa
“iSimangaliso” translates as something “wonderous” or “miraculous” in Zulu, the perfect description for this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hippos abound in the lake systems and reedbeds, while buffalo, rhinos and elephants graze across coastal dune plains and leopards and lions lurk in the thickets.
Traditional fish traps at Kosi Bay
Offshore migrating humpback whales breach, and from November to February, loggerhead and leatherback turtles drag themselves up the long stretches of sandy beaches. From snorkelling to safari and the Big 5, the massive iSimangaliso Wetland Park has it all.
Herds of elephants frequent Isimangaliso’s waterways
Kosi Forest Lodge offers an affordable escape amongst the rich biodiversity of the area. At Makakatana Bay Lodge, guests can explore the ecological gem by boat from within the world heritage site. Or try Thonga Beach Lodge, situated deep in this wilderness of white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes.
Isimangaliso Wetland Park is known for rich marine life, lake systems dotted with hippos, and picture-perfect beaches
The beach with added safari
Maputo Special Reserve, Mozambique
Mozambique is famous for its spectacular coastlines with soft white sands and crystal-clear waters. It is the perfect spot to settle in the shade of an overhanging palm tree with a cocktail in hand.
The picture-perfect beaches of Maputo Special Reserve
However, venturing further inland, intrepid explorers will find a wide variety of wildlife, including elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, and a plethora of antelope species. A founding population of cheetahs were also recently released into the park. For a pristine base from which to explore both the bushveld and beach of Maputo Special Reserve, check out barefoot-luxury beach lodge, Anvil Bay.
Maputo Special Reserve offers a variety of wildlife, making this the ultimate beach and bushveld destination
Hermanus, South Africa
Nestled against the Olifantsberg Mountains and surrounded by nature reserves, the charming seaside town of Hermanus is the complete package. It is famous for whale-watching, shark diving in Walker Bay, and strips of rugged and rocky coastline give way to long stretches of sand.
Hermanus is famous for whale-watching, and long stretches of sand
Not far from Hermanus lies the city of Cape Town, known for its spectacular hikes that look down over the world-famous beaches. Table Mountain National Park, Cape Peninsula National Park, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and several other protected areas display the best of the region’s indigenous flora and fauna, making this a nature lover’s playground.
The safari-style suites at Mosaic Lagoon Lodge, on the edge of the Hermanus Lagoon, border a bird sanctuary and offer many special and picturesque spots for photography enthusiasts.
The picturesque coastline of Hermanus
Incredible coastal wilderness
Loango National Park, Gabon
Nowhere better epitomises the meeting of bushveld and beach than Gabon’s Loango National Park, renowned for its ocean-frolicking hippos and beach-loving forest elephants. Imagine watching the sun rising over the sea as forest buffaloes snooze in the distance in the sand. Away from the beaches, the forests of the Congo basin extend as far as the eye can see, hiding a precious population of Western lowland gorillas in their midst.
Loango National Park is known for its beach-loving forest elephants
Skeleton Coast, Namibia
The beaches of the Skeleton Coast mark the point where Namibia’s inland wilderness tumbles towards the perfidious, icy currents of the Atlantic Ocean below. Admittedly, this is no place to settle on a beach towel with a suitably light novel, but the eldritch setting is astonishingly beautiful. Even more remarkable in this desolate setting, the Skeleton Coast is home to desert-adapted lions, elephants, rhinos, brown hyenas and jackals. Their ability to eke out an existence under such extraordinary conditions truly encapsulates the resilient spirit of wild Africa.
Striking Shipwreck Lodge is the perfect escape for enjoying game drives in search of desert-dwelling fauna, and days spent beachcombing.
The Skeleton Coast offers striking desert landscapes, vast beaches along the cool Atlantic, and interesting wildlife including desert-adapted elephants, and lions
Nosy Komba, Madagascar
Madagascar is an island of fascinating evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Unbeknown to most, its beaches rival those of the more conventional, tropical island paradises like Seychelles or the Maldives.
Nosy Komba is a tropical paradise
The best place to enjoy them is on one of the volcanic islands on the country’s northernmost tip. Nosy Komba is unofficially nicknamed the “island of lemurs”, as the densely vegetated interior is home to a vital population of endangered black lemurs. This otherworldly escape will delight wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers.
With specials such as black lemurs and exquisite marine life on offer, Nosy Komba is a must-visit for wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers alike
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Magnificent Matusadona + Giraffe return to Iona
There are leopards in my garden and I think this could end badly – for one particular leopard. Let me explain.
I live in a wildlife estate on the border of the Greater Kruger; leopards come and go as they please. That’s one of many joys of living here. Lizz and I let them be, keep our dogs safe and just get on with it.
But respectful co-existence is not enough for some people. One estate resident not far from us built a waterhole meters from their back porch (not permitted in terms of the estate rules), rigged up infra-red cameras and offered video feeds for Facebook friends. A well-known female leopard got used to bringing her two cubs to the waterhole – and they would hang out. One of those cubs is now all grown-up and hanging around the estate – he recently killed two pet dogs and has been seen following people walking their dogs in the estate. There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.
What if he kills a child? I bumped into him when cycling recently – and he was very relaxed in my presence – a mere 25m away.
Habituating leopards, be it a commercial tourism strategy to meet client expectations, or for some personal need, has many implications and layers. My observations above relate to leopard habituation to people on foot in residential wildlife estates and leopard attraction to dogs as food, whereas here is an interesting article about habituation for tourism purposes.
Where will this end for this leopard? Whether he remains here or moves elsewhere with domestic dogs and enthralled humans on tap, I fear this will not end well for him.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
Post publishing edit: I changed ‘lights’ to ‘infra-red cameras’ and ‘live streaming’ to ‘video feeds’. I also added, ‘There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.’
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
On the shores of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe lies a remarkable piece of African bushveld: Matusadona National Park. Once dogged by rampant poaching, this park is fast on the way to becoming one of Zim’s top safari destinations. Matusadona is also the site of one of the most extensive wildlife relocations in history, with the famous “Operation Noah” putting the park on the map. Read more about this top safari spot in our first story below.
In another, more recent, relocation, giraffe have returned to Iona National Park, Angola. This week, 14 Angolan giraffe made the long journey from Namibia to their historical range in Angola as a part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the biodiversity of this sublime wilderness area. Read more in our second story below.
A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country and delivers on most safari bucket lists requests – from the Big 5 icons and lodges of Greater Kruger to the beaches and cosmopolitan buzz of Cape Town. Start planning your South African adventure with the help of our third post below.
Bush or beach? We’ve got it all: from the floodplains of Kafue to the island paradise of Mozambique. Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip:
Ultimate Kafue safari – from US$ 6,680 pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular through the miombo woodlands and across verdant floodplains. Explore this extraordinary wilderness and its waterways, encountering the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. Our packages showcase the best that Kafue has to offer.
Stay 4, pay 3 at Santorini, Mozambique
Nestled above the red cliffs of Kingfisher Bay in Vilanculos, Santorini’s unfurling view of the Bazaruto Archipelago in the distance is unsurpassable. Santorini is like a small Greek village in the heart of a raw African landscape – a magical combination. Stay 4 and Pay 3 in 2023 and 2024 (excluding 20 Dec-10 Jan). Your stay will include a complimentary private snorkeling trip to Margaruque Island.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
We all know that the beak/bill shape of birds is related to dietary function: the sharp, hooked beaks of the avian predators, the stabby, harpoon-shaped beaks of herons, the flat, spoon-like bills of many waterfowl and so on.
But did you know scientists have found a strong correlation between beak shape and nesting material? Think of the variety on display – most raptor chicks hatch onto a perilous platform of sticks held together by a wish and a prayer, while the tiny hatchlings of sunbirds enter a delicate world wrapped up in spiderwebs. Hammerkop chicks grow up in a veritable mansion, while the most that a baby plover can hope for is learning to fly before it gets stepped on.
The point here is that animal behaviours and physical forms are shaped by millennia of selective pressures that are not necessarily as obvious as they first appear.
Save a pangolin
Yet another pangolin has been treated by Provet Wildlife Services in the bushveld town of Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger.
This time, the patient, a female pangolin, was found caught on an electric fence. Her arm was severely damaged and required intensive treatment and bandages for over three months. This lucky girl has recovered well and is now able to use her arm for foraging and feeding again.
Thank you to all who have generously donated and joined the fight to save these pangolins. Without your support they would not receive the vital emergency care provided by Provet. Learn more here.
Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes
WATCH: When you’re a plant, it’s not easy to make sure your seeds are spread far and wide and safely buried. Unless you can trick a dung beetle into doing it for you… (02:24). Click here to watch
It’s got mountains; it’s got rivers; it’s got sights to make you shiver… There is something intensely gratifying about watching wild animals do something purely for enjoyment. Swimming elephants are the perfect example as they bob and wrestle in the water, using their trunks as built-in snorkels. For the elephants of Zimbabwe’s Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba dominates their landscape like the world’s wildest swimming pool, there for them to plunge into at the end of a hot, dry day.
The carousing elephants of Matusadona National Park paint a carefree picture that belies the intense work going on behind the scenes to secure the park’s future. Yet, for all its challenges, Matusadona seems set to reclaim its rightful place as a top safari destination in one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife regions. For more top African safari destinations, click here.
Matusadona National Park
Matusadona National Park lies on the southern shore of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe, consisting of over 1,400km² (140,000 ha) sandwiched between the Sanyati Gorge to the east and the perennial Ume River to the west. The park’s character is defined by its magnificent scenery imparted by an unusual combination of engineered geography and natural geology. The vast flats of the floodplains and grasslands rapidly give way to the steep wooded slopes of the Matuzviadonha Mountains. These mountains form part of the undulating Zambezi escarpment and tower some 700 metres above the Zambezi Valley floor, dominating the park’s southern horizons. The name “Matusadona” derives from a colonial mispronunciation of “Matuzviadonha”, which, in turn, roughly translates to “fallen dung” – probably a reference to the region’s longstanding status as an elephant paradise.
It would perhaps be deceptive to describe Matusadona as a “pristine” wilderness, given that its most prominent geographical feature is Lake Kariba, the world’s largest artificial lake (by volume). Instead, it is a fascinating illustration of how human forces can shape a landscape, but nature will eventually adapt around it. However, at the time, the construction of the Kariba Dam and the gradual taming of the mighty Zambezi River necessitated one of the most extensive wildlife operations in history. From 1958 until 1964, Operation Noah facilitated the movement of 6,000 wild animals – from elephants and rhinos to birds and snakes – away from the rising waters. The vast majority were relocated to Matusadona National Park.
Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba
It seems impossible to imagine that such a slight to the very fabric of the Zambezi Valley could be endured with such natural grace, but some 60 years later, nature has rebounded. The lake has become part of the landscape, creating an atmosphere, not unlike that on the shores of one of Africa’s natural Great Lakes. Its water levels have a tremendous cyclical effect on the life surrounding it. On its banks, rich and nutritious grasses flourish during times of low water, providing myriad herbivores with plentiful grazing. Away from the floodplains, the thick mopane and Combretum woodlands of the Zambezi Valley floor hide the park’s browsers. Only the ghostly skeletons of a drowned forest rising from the waters serve as a reminder of the lake’s history while simultaneously furnishing the perfect backdrop for dramatic photography.
Matusadona is home to large herds of buffalo
Out of sight…?
Operation Noah put Matusadona on the map, and the park earned a reputation as one of Africa’s elephant strongholds. However, the park has always been somewhat off the beaten track. As Zimbabwe plunged into political instability, Matusadona dropped off all but the most dedicated radars. The park’s rugged terrain and limited manpower, financial resources and infrastructure made protecting it almost impossible. Rampant poaching wiped out the black rhinos and severely reduced the elephant population. Fortunately, the inaccessibility favouring the poachers hindered agricultural ingress, and the park’s habitat integrity has remained intact.
In 2019, the non-profit organisation African Parks partnered with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, signing a 20-year agreement to take over the management of Matusadona. While the park’s larger animals have suffered the abuse of the past, the fact that much of Matusadona’s diversity has endured offers a unique opportunity for restoration. In keeping with African Parks’ well-established methodology, increased security, improved community relations and carefully planned wildlife reintroductions will secure the park’s long-term future and allow Matusadona to live up to its phenomenal potential.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Lake Kariba is the world’s largest artificial lake
Matusadona is full to the brim
The intervention of African Parks was well-timed, and the park remains one of Zimbabwe’s wildlife tourism destinations. Naturally, elephants are the park’s most iconic residents. Not much can top the sight of these magnificent pachyderms frolicking in the lake or dwarfed by the vast floodplains surrounding them. Herds of waterbuck, zebra and impala dot the shore, while hippos and crocodiles inhabit its waters (hence why it would not be a good idea to follow the elephant’s example into the water!). Leopard, wild dog (painted wolf), spotted hyena, eland, sable and roan antelope are all inhabitants.
Many crocs call Lake Kariba’s waters home
Matusadona is home to substantial herds of buffalo, though their numbers over the years fluctuate depending on the lake water levels (and thus available grazing). At one point some 50 years ago, increased grazing supported enormous numbers of buffalo, feeding what was then one of the highest densities of lions in Africa. However, as water levels rose to flood parts of the grasslands, the buffalo numbers declined, as did the lion population. Since then, environmental and human pressures have kept lion numbers low. However, around 40 or so of these iconic big cats reside within the park.
While their numbers are not substantial, about 40 lions roam Matusadona
It should come as no surprise that with such diverse habitats, the birding in Matusadona is thrilling for experts and amateurs alike. Fish eagles are ubiquitous, as are many other water-loving birds, including herons, storks, egrets, cormorants and darters. African finfoots inhabit the Sanyati Gorge in the east, while the eastern Ume basin provides the perfect habitat for nesting marabou storks and vultures. Trumpeter hornbills regularly pass overhead, uttering their child-like cry, and, with a bit of luck, the tiny Kittlitz’s plover may even perform its broken wing display. Brightly coloured kingfishers and bee-eaters complete the avian feast for the eyes.
Water-loving birds such as saddle-billed storks are prominent in Matusadona
Explore & stay in Matusadona
Want to go on a safari to Matusadona? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
For the wildlife enthusiast, the best time to visit Matusadona is during the dry season, from June until October. As the smaller pools and rivers begin to dry up, animals are drawn to the edge of Lake Kariba, setting the scene for some spectacular sightings. However, by September and October, temperatures can easily top 40°C during the day. Those that enjoy safaris beyond the search for the Big 5 will enjoy the rugged beauty of the green season from November onwards. While temperatures are still high, migrant birds arrive, and baby animals are everywhere. The gathering of cumulonimbus clouds of the first summer thunderstorms over the lake also offers the chance for some breathtaking photography.
Matusadona is a park that encourages more than one approach to its exploration. Of course, there are the standard open-vehicle game drives, but Zimbabwe is home to some of the best walking guides in Africa, and it would be a shame to miss out on the opportunity to wander this magnificent wilderness. Of course, water-based activities are essential, and visitors can opt for a slow boat cruise to take in the scenery or a more thrilling canoe safari past elephants feeding on the lake shore. Though the park is somewhat off the more traditional Zimbabwean safari route, it is most easily accessed by air or boat. There are also several beautiful luxury lodges, some neatly positioned on a private island. There are campsites for the more budget-strapped, and hiring a houseboat and mooring in one of the park’s scenic lagoons for a night or two is also an option.
What could be better than sundowners alongside the lake?
Final thoughts
As a safari destination, Matusadona National Park faces some stiff Zimbabwean competition where names like Mana Pools National Park, Chitake Springs and Hwange National Park have become the stuff of legend. However, Matusadona’s history is a testament to the potential of this remarkable piece of African wilderness. In the capable hands of African Parks, there is no question that the park is heading towards an extraordinary future.
Giraffe have finally returned to Iona National Park, Angola, after a long absence. This week, 14 made the long journey from a private game farm in central Namibia to their historical range in Angola.
The Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), African Parks and the Government of Angola collaborated to relocate the animals to Iona National Park and bring back Angolan giraffe to the area. The Angolan giraffe is considered a subspecies of the southern giraffe, and is found in small populations in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and now, once again, Angola. The successful relocation forms part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity.
After their capture in Namibia, the animals travelled over 1,300km before their release in Angola on 5 July. The reintroduction will help restore Iona’s ecosystem and re-establish the region’s ecological processes, as giraffe assist in shaping the vegetation through browsing and dispersal of seeds due to their selective feeding habits.
The animals being captured on a game farm in central Namibia
“By reintroducing giraffe to their historical range, we re-establish their range, ensure their long-term survival and contribute to restoring the ecological balance in the region,” says Stephanie Fennessy, executive director and co-founder of GCF.
Before the move, a feasibility study was conducted by a Namibian student from the Namibia University of Science & Technology and GCF. The study evaluated the source population of the animals, habitat suitability, human dimensions, risks during and after the operation and financial feasibility. African Parks also surveyed the communities in and around the periphery of Iona to evaluate perceptions of the proposed giraffe translocation. The assessment revealed that most Iona inhabitants are highly receptive to the presence of giraffe in the park and the safari tourism potential they may bring.
A truck carrying the precious cargo arrives in Iona National Park
“The reintroduction of giraffe to Iona marks a critical moment in the park’s history,” says Pedro Monterroso, Iona park manager. “These graceful animals will contribute to the restoration of the park’s biodiversity and serve as a symbol of Angola’s commitment to conservation.”
Whilst giraffe populations, in general, have declined in the past 35 years due to habitat loss, poaching, and other human-induced factors, recent targeted conservation efforts have seen positive effects, and several populations have started to rebound. The successful translocation of the animals to Iona is a testament to the importance of cross-border conservation efforts for protecting Africa’s biodiversity.
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Rhino dehorning impacts + Ethiopian wolves + Great Migration
Just say no. A rant.
When your travel agent offers a visit to any establishment that offers touching a wild species as entertainment – say no. When your child wants to ‘save’ lions, tigers or cheetahs by volunteering at a big-cat breeding or cub-petting facility – say no. When you are asked to donate to any charity or facility that offers petting or walking with wild species – habituated or not – say no. Elephant-back riding or chimp cuddling – no. Do the research beyond the glossy brochures and claims of conservation benefits such as research and re-introduction to the wild, ask pointed questions and say no if there is any element of touching as a benefit for visitors or volunteers. It’s that simple. Most of these abusive facilities are in South Africa – check out this valuable resource to inform your decisions. If you are not yet convinced of the insidious evil of the captive big cat industry in this country, scroll down to watch this week’s featured video.
So, a few days ago, a little sparrowhawk joined me in my home office. She hurtled in after mistiming an attack on red-billed firefinches and blue waxbills at the garden bird bath. No harm done; she was duly caught and released – after giving me her most threatening glare. Life is good 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We have a rhino-poaching crisis on our hands, and dehorning has emerged as one of the vital strategies in curbing incidents of poaching. But for years, many have wondered what impact dehorning has on the individual rhinos that have faced the chainsaw. A new study suggests concerning implications for black rhinos. Read our first story below.
In the Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems, an incredible spectacle unfolds as large herds of wildebeest and zebra embark on their tireless quest for sustenance and water. Our second post below celebrates the wonders of the Great Migration, outlining the best safaris on offer for witnessing the Greatest Show on Earth.
High up in the Ethiopian Highlands, amidst the spectacular massif of sharp crags and cliffs, lives one of Africa’s most unique animals: the Ethiopian wolf. This stealthy canid is the most endangered carnivore in Africa. Fortunately, there are still places where these wolves are thriving. Read all there is to know about Ethiopian wolves in our third story below.
Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$945 pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants, to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans in Botswana – Makgadikgadi Pan and Nxai Pan – goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Stay at Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island, Lake Malawi
Beach-front lodge Kaya Mawa is hidden away on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi – one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. This fresh-water lake is surrounded by gorgeous beaches and interesting fauna and flora, including the greatest diversity of fish anywhere on the planet. All internal flights and transfers (from the nearest international airport) are included when you book a minimum of 4 nights for travel in 2024.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Lately, my nights have been filled with a series of vivid and bizarre dreams, none of which I can remember in any great detail when I wake. If I had more faith in the mystic and the occult, I might be rushing to a dream guide or offering up prayers to Morpheus in search of understanding, but as it is, I suspect they are just a product of exam-brain. (Fourth year of veterinary science has proved challenging!)
The mysteries of slumber occupy researchers studying many different species. Last year I told you about dreaming spiders, but did you know that there is a strong possibility that octopuses dream too? Neuroscientists have found remarkable similarities in the brain patterns of sleeping octopuses and humans, including a REM-like state. Like the spiders (and dogs, cats, and people), the octopuses twitch and move their eyes around. However, the best part is that they also rapidly change colour – putting on a fascinating display of patterns that flicker over their skin. It is really quite beautiful.
WATCH: Blood Lions, the award-winning documentary exposing the terrible truth behind the cub-petting, predator-breeding, canned lion-hunting and lion-bone industries in South Africa, is now available free to view on Youtube. Check it out (1:24:40). Click here to watch
In an effort to address the rhino poaching crisis of the past two decades, removing the horns of at-risk rhinos has become a vital prong of anti-poaching strategies across southern Africa. However, a new study has shown for the first time that dehorning may change the natural behavioural ecology of black rhinos.
Black rhinos are primarily solitary animals living within delimited home ranges and are generally considered less gregarious than their larger white rhino relatives. Previous studies have shown that horns directly affect territoriality and agnostic activities. This is particularly true for male-male interactions, with one study indicating that males with larger horns dominated 65% of encounters. Thus, removing their horns can influence competition for mating rights, territory and, ultimately, their social demography. There is a growing body of research on the effects of dehorning on rhinos, yet prior to this study, little was known about its long-term impact on black rhinos in particular.
The paper’s authors analysed 15 years’ worth of rhino sightings from ten reserves in South Africa (from 2005 to 2020). This included temporospatial data from 368 individual black rhinos and all natural and poaching mortalities. During that time, the percentage of dehorned black rhinos increased from 0% to 63% across the study sites.
Dehorning rhinos is considered an essential anti-poaching strategy in Southern Africa
They found that home range size of individual animals decreased by an average of 45% of their previous size. The effect was most pronounced in females, with a 53% reduction compared to 38% in males. Individuals sometimes lost as much as 80% of their previous territories. Further investigation from three of the study sites with robust data (Ithala Game Reserve, Phinda Private Game Reserve and Manyoni Private Game Reserve) also revealed a significant decline in the frequency and strength of social interactions, especially between bulls. The researchers speculate that this decline may be due to increased feelings of vulnerability in dehorned rhinos, causing them to retreat into smaller territories and avoid confrontation. However, the scientists acknowledge that they could not evaluate the exact mechanisms behind the behavioural changes.
The authors highlight at least three reasons these behavioural changes could have “cryptic but powerful population-level consequences” for black rhinos. First, dehorned individuals may be forced into “ecological traps” in poorer-quality habitats. Second, decreased social interactions could alter their dominance patterns and reproductive success. And finally, with decreased home ranges and reduced explorative behaviour, dehorning black rhinos could reduce recruitment (the addition of individuals through immigration or birth and maturation) in new landscapes. Furthermore, the changes brought about by dehorning could significantly impact the calculation of the carrying capacity of reserves.
However, it is essential to note that the study found no link between dehorned rhinos and increased mortality. Dehorned black rhinos are no more likely to die of natural causes (for example, in a fight between individuals) than those still possessing their horns. Poaching mortalities also declined across all ten study sites, though the authors do not believe this data is sufficient to infer a causal relationship between dehorning and poaching. They point to several other variables that would have influenced poaching rates, including increased security measures and COVID lockdown regulations.
Final thoughts on rhino dehorning
There are many variables and parameters to consider when evaluating the impact of dehorning on the individual well-being, social demography and overall population dynamics of rhinos. These include everything from stress hormone levels, breeding intervals, calf mortality, home range, and habitat usage. Ultimately, the choice of what to analyse will significantly affect the conclusion about the potential harm of dehorning the rhino population (none, slight, significant). Long-term population effects may also take several years to manifest, meaning we are only now in a position to start observing them. Furthermore, inferences cannot be drawn from research conducted on one species of rhino (white or black) and applied to the other. However, every piece of research on dehorning – both in terms of its efficacy as a poaching deterrent and its effect on the animals – will add another piece to the puzzle.
Dehorning a white rhino in Greater Kruger
There can be no question that removing rhinos’ horns (whether white or black) will impact them in some way. It is more important to establish the severity of these effects so that the costs can be balanced against the potential benefits. As the authors conclude: “While dehorning may yet prove to be an essential anti-poaching measure, it must be implemented with extreme caution and be accompanied by rigorous monitoring to understand its long-term impacts.”
More than half of Africa’s rhinos are in private hands. With rising protection costs, what will it take to build a resilient private industry? Read more on the importance of private-sector rhino conservation here.
Rhino poaching continues to decimate Kruger National Park’s rhino populations. Read more on the latest rhino population figures here.
High upon the Afroalpine plains of Ethiopia’s Bale Mountains, a big-headed African mole-rat raises its head cautiously out of its tunnel. Showing off an impressive pair of incisors, it glares myopically at the surroundings from beneath a deep-set brow before venturing forth from its bolt hole to feed. The mole-rat has good reason to be so vigilant – it occupies one of the last bastions of Africa’s most endangered and intriguing carnivores: the Ethiopian wolf. And they are expert rodent killers.
The Ethiopian wolf
Ethiopian wolves (Canis simensis) are handsome, russet-coated canids found only at altitudes above 3,200 metres in the Highlands of Ethiopia. As unusually specialised predators, they have the lamentable honour of being the most endangered carnivore in Africa and the rarest canid species worldwide. Given their particular habitat preferences, it is unlikely that Ethiopian wolves ever occurred at high numbers or densities, but due to anthropogenic pressure, their populations are now highly fragmented. Today, Ethiopian wolves are restricted to a handful of isolated mountain enclaves, threatened by encroachment and disease. This understandably dominates most of the available commentary on these unique animals.
One regrettable consequence of their conservation plight is that the more nuanced aspects of their evolutionary history and fascinating ethology are often overlooked. Yet, the Ethiopian wolf is a marvel in its own right – a creature closely related to Eurasia and North America’s more familiar grey wolves but with a distinctly African twist. Millions of years ago, as canid ancestors trotted in from Asia and Europe to the welcoming lands of Africa, some of them gravitated to a less hospitable realm. Largely freed from competition with rival predators, the ancestors of the Ethiopian wolves found themselves in rodent heaven on the “roof of Africa”.
The cursorial hunting techniques so popular with many large canid species (like grey wolves or the African wild dog) are of little use on the sparse Afroalpine plains. Thus, Ethiopian wolves adopt a more patient, almost feline approach to hunting. They stalk through the heath and grasslands, using keen hearing to pinpoint rodent burrows. When a suitable target is identified, the wolf will wait for the rodent to emerge before leaping into the air and descending serval-like from above. By necessity, this hunting style is a one-wolf job, and Ethiopian wolves are predominantly solitary hunters (though interestingly, they often hunt within large herds of foraging geladas). However, there are rare instances when packs band together to hunt larger prey like the calves of mountain nyala.
Ethiopian wolves are stealthy and solitary hunters
Quick facts
Height:
53-62cm
Mass:
Males: 14.2-19.3kg
Females: 11.2-14.1kg
Social structure:
Packs
Gestation:
60-62 days
Conservation status:
Endangered (formally Critically Endangered)
Ethiopian wolves are found only at altitudes above 3,200 metres in the Highlands of Ethiopia. Check out more images from @chriswdc here
Wolf, jackal, or fox?
Like the African wild dog (painted wolf), the Ethiopian wolf has several alternative (and potentially confusing) monikers. They are sometimes referred to as Simien foxes, Simien or Ethiopian jackals, Abyssinian wolves and even a horse’s jackal (a local name supposedly in reference to their habit of consuming the expelled placentas of post-parturient horses and cows).
In terms of size and shape, Ethiopian wolves are not dissimilar to coyotes, though lankier and with longer muzzles. Their ambush-based hunting habits resemble smaller canid species like jackals, while their social structures are unequivocally wolf-like. And finally, their ochre-hued coats are positively vulpine.
Perhaps this foxy colouring led Oscar Neumann, a German naturalist of the early 20th century, to describe the Ethiopian wolf as “only an exaggerated fox,” but Oscar was to be proven mistaken. We now know that the Ethiopian wolf’s closest African relative is the African wolf (Canis lupaster), an animal which, until 2015, was thought to be a golden jackal. What’s more, the ancestor of the African wolf was a genetically admixed canid of 72% grey wolf (Canis lupus) and 28% Ethiopian wolf ancestry. To put it simply, as far as we know, the Ethiopian, African, and grey wolves, together with coyotes and golden jackals, all evolved from the same common ancestor. The Ethiopian wolf is the most basal member of that group, meaning that it diverged early on, about a million years before the rest. All species appear to be sufficiently closely related to hybridise and produce fertile offspring.
Family groups vary in size, from an average of six pack members, up to 20 individuals
Wolf pack
Ethiopian wolves have pack structures similar to both grey wolves and African wild dogs. The family groups may number up to 20 individuals, though they are generally smaller, with an average of six pack members. These packs occupy territories (the size of which varies depending on rodent populations), and all individuals contribute to the defence of these territories through scent-marking, vocalisations and aggressive interactions.
A breeding pair monopolises the reproductive affairs of the pack, and the remaining females are reproductively suppressed. Furthermore, the breeding female will only accept the advances of her pack mate (or males from other groups if she happens to sneak away). The helpless pups are born into an underground den, and it will be three weeks before they emerge to peer out at their new, chilly world. Raising the next generation is a team undertaking, with all wolves helping protect and feed the pups (view a gallery featuring the antics of a young Ethiopian wolf pack here). Subordinate females may even lactate and help suckle larger litters.
At around two years of age, subordinate females tire of life under their mother’s reproductive tyranny and disperse in search of a new pack – either forming their own with a suitable dispersal male or integrating into an existing one.
Ethiopian wolf pups emerge from the den at around three-weeks of age
Keeping the wolf from the door
Most available reading on Ethiopian wolves suggests their current range is limited to seven mountain populations. However, this is dated information, and the situation is likely worse than most realise. The last formal population assessment came in 2011 when the IUCN Canid Specialist Group suggested that they are now extinct in Mt. Gunda in South Gondar (one of the seven listed remaining ranges). Only a handful of wolves remained in the North and South Wollo Highlands at the last count in 2000. The Simien and Bale Mountains (sections of which are protected by eponymous national parks) are the last remaining population strongholds of Ethiopia’s wolves.
For the most part, direct persecution has not contributed enormously to the decline of the Ethiopian wolf, as they very seldom prey on livestock and thus do not represent an immediate threat to farmers. They are also well protected under Ethiopian law. It is habitat loss that has driven them to the verge of extinction. The wolves are designed to thrive at high altitudes in particular habitats, and over 60% of all land above 3,200 metres in Ethiopia is now farmland.
Worse still, with people comes disease in the form of canine distemper and rabies spread via domestic dogs. Many of Africa’s large carnivores (including lions, wild dogs and Ethiopian wolves) are incredibly susceptible to these highly fatal viruses, and they can spread like wildfire in social species. In the already tiny populations of Ethiopian wolves, the effects of an outbreak can be devastating to the point of local extinction. An additional challenge posed by domestic dogs is the ability of the two to interbreed, endangering the already dwindling genetics of the wolves.
An Ethiopian wolf, tagged for research purposes, in the Bale Mountains
Final thoughts
As canids spread across the globe millions of years ago, their versatility and opportunistic natures proved a recipe for success. But the more specialised they became, the more vulnerable they were to the impact of humans. For the Ethiopian wolves, their niche requirements combined with the inexorable advance of people, farms and the associated dangers have been disastrous.
Fortunately, there are still places where the wolves are safe and thriving, and concerted conservation efforts have seen them reclassified from “Critically Endangered” to “Endangered” – one step closer to ensuring the future for Ethiopia’s exquisite and unique wolves. Talk to our safari experts about seeing Ethiopian wolves in the wild.
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Water safaris + marvellous wildebeest + ultimate Botswana
It’s that time of year here in Southern Africa when crepuscular temperatures are somewhat crisp, the static air is bone-dry, trees are bare, and the remaining grass is like straw. It’s safari time! Well, actually all year is safari time, but this is the favourite time of year for many to visit Africa. Wildlife is easier to find because of the lack of vegetation cover and their need to find water.
We are receiving more last-minute requests than usual (a sign of the times?) – which are often challenging to fulfil because many lodges are fully booked during peak safari season. Of course my team will bust a gut to find your desired safari experience at short notice, BUT did you know that the BEST time of year for epic wildlife encounters is late in the dry season – September to mid November (before the short rains)? The dry is at its peak, temperatures are rising and there is an air of desperation to proceedings. This is when I choose to do bushtime. Drop us an email for advice and to plan your late dry-season safari.
Meanwhile, here at home on the Greater Kruger border our nights are filled with lions, leopards and hyenas calling and elephants trumpet-squealing. While Verreaux’s eagle-owls and southern white-faced owls provide a soothing background audio. Life is good.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
There is an Africa to be explored beyond game drives and bush walks: an Africa buzzing with incomparable vitality. Along the continent’s rivers, streams and lakes, you will find a distinct kind of safari, one that celebrates the very lifeblood of the land. In our first story, we’ve compiled a list of the top water safaris to experience in Africa, from gliding down the waterways of the Okavango Delta, to floating down the Chobe on a riverboat or kayaking the Nile.
They’re the subject of many a dream safari – the unlikely heroes of an epic African adventure. And not for nothing do thousands of visitors head to witness them in action during the Greatest Show on Earth. This week, we pay homage to the wildebeest. See our second story below.
Lastly, as host to the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Savute, Makgadikgadi and more, Botswana is the ultimate safari destination that offers a complex web of wildlife habitats to satisfy even the most demanding traveller. We’ve put together everything you need to know about a safari in Botswana.
Languages evolve in weird and wonderful ways, along with a host of colourful idioms and expressions. Naturally, animals feature heavily in these creative turns of phrase, occasionally perpetuating some rather glaring misconceptions.
For example, did you know that most bats have keen eyesight, with some even postulated to see better than humans? Obviously, different species use this sense in combination with echolocation and smell depending on their diet, but no bat is truly blind. So the common simile “as blind as a bat” is way off the mark and probably arose from their erratic flight patterns.
Likewise, owls do not have a penchant for wisdom and goldfish actually have a rather remarkable memory.
THE SNARE SCOURGE
In our forum: The illegal practice of setting snares to hunt animals is a widespread problem in Africa, posing a risk to biodiversity. In South Africa’s Western Cape, snaring poses a serious threat to leopards. The Cape Leopard Trust (CLT) is developing a multi-pronged strategy, including research, conservation and education, to grapple with this complex issue.
Read more about how CLT is addressing snaring & attempting to combat the scourge.
WATCH: The country of Gabon aims to protect 30% of its land, ocean, and freshwater habitats by 2030, and is emerging as a conservation leader in Africa and globally (03:37). Click here to watch
Every year, a sense of anticipation hangs over the grassland savannahs of East Africa. A light breeze ruffles yellow grass that stretches as far as the eye can see over rolling hills dotted with sparse trees. Hungry predators lounge in the shade, watching, waiting… Then a dark form appears on the horizon, followed by another and another until the looming wall of lowing animals begins to descend into the first valley. The herd is on the move – the wildebeest are coming.
Colourful characters
Compared to the graceful kudu, winsome nyala or even ubiquitous impala, the wildebeest is not an antelope appreciated for its natural beauty. It is an ungainly-looking creature with a front-heavy body and an aquiline nose that does not inspire portrait photography. Indeed, apart from the spectacle that is the Great Migration (to book your African safari to see the Great Migration, click here), few visitors to Africa are content to spend more than a few passing minutes observing wildebeest. Yet beneath the rather homely exterior beats the heart of one of the toughest animals on the continent, and their social interactions can be profoundly entertaining for those who stop to enjoy them.
Blue wildebeest. Wildebeest are reputed to be able to reach speeds of up to 80km/hour and have exceptional stamina
There are only two species of wildebeest – the well-known blue/common wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and the black wildebeest (C. gnou) of southern Africa. The Connochaetes genus falls under the family Bovidae and subfamily Alcelaphinae, making their closest relatives the hartebeest, hirola, topi, tsessebe, blesbok and bontebok antelopes. Fossils of blue wildebeest indicated that they evolved at least 2.5 million years ago. Analysis of mitochondrial DNA suggests that black wildebeest diverged as a separate species in southern Africa around 1.5 million years later.
The unmistakable fawn tail and tilted horns of a black wildebeest
Blue wildebeest are found throughout much of East and southern Africa in various habitats, from dense woodland to floodplains. In contrast, the black wildebeest is found only in South Africa, Lesotho, and Eswatini in open grasslands and Karoo scrub. Though the two do not generally overlap, each species is distinctive and relatively easy to distinguish from the other. The most obvious difference is the shape of the horns – in blue wildebeest, these extend outwards from either side of the head before curving upwards at the tips. Those of the black wildebeest project forward towards the muzzle and then loop vertically. As the names imply, the coat colour is another distinguishing feature. However, the black wildebeest is more of a rich chocolate brown than black, and the colouration of the blue wildebeest varies depending on region and subspecies.
Differences in distribution and behaviour are usually sufficient to prevent the two species from interbreeding in the wild, but they have been known to hybridise to produce fertile offspring. The calves of both species are born tawny and will only start showing their adult colours after a few months.
Nominate species: blue/common wildebeest ( t. taurinus) – southern Angola, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and southwestern Zambia
Nyasaland wildebeest ( t. johnstoni) – northern Mozambique to central Tanzania
Eastern white-bearded wildebeest ( t. albojubatus) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya
Western white-bearded wildebeest ( t. mearnsi) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya, west of the Gregory Rift Valley
Cookson’s wildebeest ( t. cooksoni) – Luangwa Valley in Zambia
Wildebeest migration madness
No article on these antelope would be complete without mention of the Great Migration of East Africa, where over a million blue wildebeest make their never-ending circular journey through the Mara-Serengeti ecosystems. Their quest for fresh grasses drives them onwards in enormous herds through predator-rich savannahs and across crocodile-infested rivers. It is a chaotic and often adrenaline-tinged phenomenon as hungry big cats, wild dogs (painted wolves), and hyenas throw themselves into the melee with joyous abandon to take advantage of this annual glut of prey. When not diving headlong off plunging riverbanks or leaping out of reach of snapping jaws, the herds gather on the plains from horizon to horizon, grunting, lowing and snorting at each other constantly. It is a sensory extravaganza for visitors to one of Africa’s greatest spectacles.
“Swarm intelligence” – some scholars theorise that large herds of migrating wildebeest cooperate to overcome obstacles like rivers. But it is hard to identify patterns in the chaos
However, few people realise that Africa was once home to many such migrations. These have been stopped in their tracks over the centuries by fences and human encroachment (this is true for almost all large herbivore species, to some extent). Though perhaps not on the same scale, black wildebeest also migrated from the Karoo scrublands to the grasslands of South Africa’s highveld during the wet season. Similarly, many blue wildebeest herds in different ecosystems would have covered massive distances depending on rainfall and grass availability. Some of these migrations have survived, like that between Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania, albeit involving far fewer animals. The removal of some veterinary fences in Botswana also allowed zebra and wildebeest to resume their yearly journey between the country’s Okavango Delta and Chobe ecosystems to the Boteti River and associated salt pans. Other wildebeest migrations have all but collapsed, such as the migration of the Athi-Kaputiei ecosystems in Kenya and, due to veterinary fences, the movement of an estimated half a million wildebeest through Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Given the impact of the Great Migration on the habitats and inhabitants of the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti (everything from food provision to supplementing phosphorus in the rivers), there is no question that the loss of these migrations must have a profound effect on the ecosystems they left behind.
It is also important to note that not all wildebeest migrate, even in areas known for their migratory events. Sedentary populations are found throughout the range of the blue wildebeest, including the Mara, Serengeti and Tarangire. In these populations, dominant males maintain small, set territories throughout the year while breeding herds and groups of non-territorial bachelors move across more extensive home ranges.
A massive herd attempts a river crossing
Bewilderbeest*
Wildebeest are not considered among the great thinkers of the African plains, but that does not detract from their entertainment value, even at the more “ordinary” sightings. When large herds gather in their thousands, the constant contact grunting creates a din that resounds in one’s ears long after the day has ended. During the rutting season, these are interspersed with the hilarious groans of the males looking to establish a temporary territory of just a few square metres. They do this through threat displays and the occasional clash of horns, all while trying to keep half an eye on the females wandering into their little patch. By the time a male has seen off an opponent, the females have usually ambled away, and the whole process has to begin again.
The males of sedentary populations defend permanent territories, with the most coveted being around waterholes. The lord of any such desirable patch stakes his claim through scent marking, which he deposits by rubbing facial glands on suitable trees and scraping the pedal gland between the toes on the ground. His efforts will be rewarded by a more regular presence of breeding herds.
Males locked in a territorial battle
Whether migratory or sedentary, wildebeest are seasonal breeders, and up to 90% of the calves are born within a three-week interval. The timing of the birthing season is regionally dependent, with southern African calves born around the beginning of December and birthing reaching its peak in February in East African populations. The wobbly brown calves are quick to find their feet and, despite the precarious nature of their very existence, are exceptionally playful and clownish.
Want to see wildebeest in the wild or follow the chaos of the Great Migration? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your safari – details below this story.
* Our use of the term “bewilderbeest” with credit to the late Sir Terry Pratchett
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Magical Mana Pools + African civets
Africa’s safari destinations and their charismatic creatures offer the chance to escape from reality, but few match up to the magic of Mana Pools. Beyond lions dwarfed by towering forests, large herds of elephants, lily-covered ponds, and regular encounters with African wild dogs, Mana Pools offers catharsis for the soul. Irene Amiet visited the famed area in Zimbabwe to photograph the other-worldly wilderness of this Zambezi kingdom. Check out her photos and read more about her experience in our first story below.
And then… They’re the silent phantoms of the African safari, the bandits of the bushveld – stalking the night and eluding all who seek them… Our second story takes a closer look at the African civet, one of the continent’s more mysterious mammals. Not often seen, these fierce and agile predators should not be overlooked. Find out why.
We have TWO safari specials to choose from this week. Get in touch with our safari experts and YOU could soon be jetting off to incredible wild places.
Botswana Classic: fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$6,238 pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered MOBILE safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this special high-season rate of US$6,238pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023.
Stay at Kisima Ngeda Camp, Lake Eyasi, Tanzania
Kisima Ngeda Camp is nestled in a thick stand of doum palm and fever tree forest under a rocky granite hill overlooking the seasonal Lake Eyasi, Tanzania. Book your stay and meet the Hadza tribe in an immersive cultural experience. Stay 5 nights and pay for 4 – valid all year round!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that pangolins’ tongues extend all the way through the thorax to their last ribs? These they use to lap up termites and ants during their nightly myrmecophagous feasts.
Except, of course, when poachers find them. Then they are thrown roughly into sacks and go for days without food or water; their well-being and even survival of little interest to those seeking to trade their scales. By the time they are rescued (if they are rescued), their little bodies are traumatised and desperately depleted.
The toll of caring for these forlorn rescues is immense, both from an emotional and physical point of view. They require intensive medical intervention and, if their lives are saved, weeks and months of rehabilitation before they can be safely returned to the wild.
Read on to learn about another extraordinary rescue, and then please join me in donating to their cause. Every little bit counts in the fight to try and right the wrongs wrought upon these innocent animals.
Save a pangolin
Another pangolin has been rescued! The little male was confiscated in a recent sting operation near Hoedspruit, just outside Greater Kruger. The pangolin was severely emaciated and has now begun the slow process of medical treatment and rehabilitation, with help from Provet Wildlife Services. Thanks to all who have already supported our campaign to assist these pangolins.
Consider donating to Provet to assist in intensive cases like these which require thorough and in-depth medical care.
Please note all pangolins are housed off site for security purposes.
WATCH: For the first time in 150 years, lions are once again roaming the rolling hills of Babanango Game Reserve, in Zululand, South Africa. In this historic move, two male lions have been reintroduced onto the reserve, as part of an ambitious rewilding journey (09:48). Click here to watch
As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of burnished sienna, the cast of the graveyard shift begins to stir. Leaves rustle, feathers are fluffed, lions stretch out sleep-stiffened limbs, and somewhere in the distance, a lone hyena whoops. The creatures of the African night emerge to continue the ceaseless dance of survival. Among them, an African civet pads silently along well-trodden paths in search of its next meal – another furtive ghost of the continent’s mysterious darkness.
The bandits of the bushveld
With their bright, intelligent eyes, sharp features, round ears and black markings, African civets are often described as racoon-like in appearance, but the two species are unrelated. The African civet (Civettictis civetta) belongs to the Viverridae family, along with genets and the lesser-known oyans (also known as linsangs) of West and Central Africa. (Despite its common name, the African palm civet is only very distantly related to African civets and belongs to an entirely different family – the Nandiniidae.) African civets are the sole surviving member of the Civettictis genus, the largest member of the Viverridae family in Africa, and the second-largest civet species after the Asian binturong.
While they occur throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, these curious animals are primarily nocturnal, occupying favoured hiding places in dense vegetation during the day. As a result, sightings are generally brief unless a lodge happens to have a resident civet that moves through it each night. If the opportunity is presented, close observation reveals that civets are oddly lopsided, with disproportionately large hindquarters. Their thick fur is decorated in unique patterns of spots and blotches that merge into bands running down the legs and tail. Masquerade facial markings and a long crest of fur erected when threatened convey the distinct (and accurate) impression that this is not an animal to be trifled with.
Though generally docile, civets are fierce and agile predators, and when cornered, their defensive growl is surprisingly deep and profoundly intimidating. It is also interspersed with an explosive sound described as “cough-spitting”. The well-developed sagittal crest along the top of the skull and robust zygomatic arch provide strong points of attachment for the temporal and masseter muscles, conferring a powerful bite that belies the animal’s stature.
African civets are creatures of the night
Quick civet facts
Height:
40cm
Body length (without tail):
67-84 cm
Mass:
7-20 kilograms (females smaller than males)
Social structure:
Solitary
Gestation:
Around 80 days
IUCN conservation status:
Least Concern
Unpalatable preferences
Civets are creatures of habit at night, moving along regular pathways at a slow, tentative walk with heads held low and relying on an acute sense of smell to guide them to their next unsuspecting meal. They have a broad and indiscriminate palate that extends to small mammals, birds and their eggs, invertebrates, fruit and even carrion. However, it is their taste for toxicity that sets civets apart. Millipedes secrete hydrogen cyanide and hydrochloric acid – a noxious combination that deters all but the most determined predators. Though the mechanisms are not fully elucidated, civets can eat and process these toxins, presumably without any discomfort, as millipedes form one of the main components of their diets. They have also been known to casually snack on the fruits of plants belonging to the Strychnos genus, which contain high levels of strychnine.
This gastronomic flexibility allows civets to utilise different resources and thus reduces competition with other medium-sized carnivores.
Their broad and capable palates reduce civets’ competition with other carnivores
Ode de civet
The munched millipedes proceed as usual through the digestive tract and are eventually deposited in characteristic civettries. These civet middens are unmistakable, decorated as they are with the white exoskeletons of invertebrate prey (and the sheer size of the droppings, which almost defy the physical limits of anatomy). The trees beside civettries and along popular paths are marked with a pungent pale-yellow secretion from large perineal glands known as civetone. Civets essentially live through their noses and have been known to be driven to a rubbing and marking frenzy by strong-smelling objects. Things like rotten fruits attract their attention, and they “neck-slide” against the offending stink, repeatedly smearing their contribution of civetone along the way. Even unsuspecting pangolins have found themselves victims of this scent-induced delirium.
Civetone may be putrid smelling when concentrated, but diluted formulations create a pleasant scent. For this reason, civetone has been included as a base in perfumes for hundreds of years. While today, most commercial perfume companies have replaced civetone with synthetic ambretone, the practice persists, and boutique scents made from civetone remain popular. Most of this natural civetone is sourced from caged male civets in Ethiopia, caught in the wild and kept under appalling conditions.
While, unlike their Asian cousins, African civets have escaped the bizarre tradition of making coffee from beans in their faeces, they are believed to be extensively hunted for bushmeat in parts of Africa. Though the impact has not been thoroughly studied, experts believe that thousands of civets are killed every year in the forests of Nigeria and Cameroon, which could well be contributing to local population declines.
Civets are rarely spotted in daylight hours
The solitary civet
Left to their own devices, civets are solitary, though little is known about the extent of their social dynamics or sex territoriality. A female in oestrus will call to prospective mates with a sound described as a “moaning meow” by biologist Richard Estes. Some 80 days after her amorous songs are answered, she will seek a suitable den site and give birth to between one and four kittens.
Civet kittens are born well-developed compared to other carnivores and are walking within a few days and exploring outside the den at around three weeks old. Adorably, they display what is known as clustering behaviour, where if one gives out a contact call, its siblings will immediately move to join it. They are weaned quickly, eating solid food from about a month old and reaching independence as early as four months.
Find a civet in the wild
Civets favour savannah and forest habitats and are absent from the more arid areas of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Though widely distributed, their nocturnal and elusive habits make encountering one in the wild a rare treat. In southern Africa, the dry and cold winter months offer the best chance of a sighting, as the civets are more likely to move at dusk.
Given Africa’s profusion of charismatic animals, it is perhaps inevitable that some of the smaller, more obscure species might be overlooked in all the excitement of a safari. Yet the Africa civet is one of the continent’s unique offerings – a silent phantom that stalks the African night.
After years of exploring Southern Africa’s wildlife havens, Irene Amiet finally had the chance to take her camera to Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park. The resulting experience brought enrichment beyond compare. Irene’s gallery of images reflect the other-worldly wilderness of Mana Pools’ buzzing floodplains, nebulous forests and hidden gems.
“Capturing a sense of what we’ve lost in our world of connectivity isn’t always simple. But, every day, on a dusty airstrip somewhere in Africa, a traveller breathes a sigh of relief as they step out into the bush to escape the grind and experience Africa’s wilderness, taking the opportunity to try.
Mana Pools provides more than thriving ecosystems and lily-covered ponds. Its waters dispense nourishment to the tired minds seeking adventure in its mopane woods. The magic of Mana Pools lies in the secretive glimpse it provides into a world almost too manifold to capture visually (to start planning your African safari to Mana Pools, click here). But I was determined to soak up the experience and photograph the extraordinary moments I experienced while there.
While visiting the park, I learn of its trajectory of conservation success. No elephant has been poached in the park in the past three years. The reason? According to Nick Murray, a driving force behind local anti-poaching successes and founder of Bushlife Conservancy, it’s simple: ‘Boots on the ground and proper vehicles’. It comes down to money and means to equip rangers appropriately to do their jobs well.
It’s fitting then that we witness the famous bull ‘Tusker’ in action while visiting Mana Pools. We find Tusker browsing the soft grass on the islands in the floodplains one evening. We watch him from a boat as he towers above us, the last sunlight highlighting his silhouette against the Zambezi Escarpment, creating an unforgettable moment I am pleased to capture through my lens.
As Zimbabwe allows visitors to step out of their vehicles in national parks when accompanied by a guide, the area of Mana Pools along the floodplains, dotted by groves of towering ana trees, provides for artists and photographers in an unparalleled way. Sitting under a mopane tree as elephants approach from a woodland of dusty jade-green, heartbeats don’t accelerate but slow with our breathing. We witness elephants reaching up into the trees, finding seed pots, and breaking off branches. An impala snorts in the distance, and a flock of bright little lovebirds flutters past. Three baboons break the silhouette of trees further down, traced by the sun in gold. For a moment, the world is at balance.”
A young male catches the photographer’s eye through the leavesA flock of Lilian’s lovebirds take flightCrocodiles dot the islands interspersed amidst the Zambezi’s floodplainsTwo bulls are dwarfed by the towering Mana Pools woodlandsA capture of a yellow-billed stork taking off from the ZambeziRadio collars are a helpful tool for monitoring elephant migrations through the Zambezi Valley. Irene and her party spotted Tusker the elephant wearing one of these collarsA young male peers out from the mopane woodsZebras highlighted by the day’s first raysBlue hour on the Zambezi
Resources
Mana Pools is Africa’s iconic park for bushwalking without a guide – renowned for encounters on foot with wild dogs & relaxed elephant bulls. Read everything there is to know about Mana Pools National Park here.
Want to see more of Mana Pools? This fantastic photo gallery capturing the magic of Mana Pools will have you grabbing your camera, packing your bag and booking your African safari with us. See how to book below this story.
In the mirage-like desert setting of |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, the unearthly shapes of strange trees lean longingly north towards the blazing sun. At a distance, they look uncannily like people, and they were once – or so the Nama legend goes. When fierce conflict drove the defeated Nama tribespeople out of more fertile lands in Namibia, they fled to the boulder-strewn desert of the south. Yet for some, the grief and yearning proved insurmountable, and they stopped to gaze back toward their beloved homeland. The gods took pity on these lost souls and turned them into “halfmens” trees (“half-human”, half-plant) to be forever consoled with their last view of home.
These eldritch plants are just one of the many ecological oddities of the rugged and seemingly inhospitable |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. From an unparalleled array of succulents and an unusual subspecies of zebra to a river oasis and spectacular canyon views, it is a land for adventurous souls and enthusiastic naturalists. With an emphasis on self-sufficiency and wilderness appeal, the park is a place to lose phone signal and find peace beneath the dazzling expanse of the Milky Way.
|Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
As the name suggests, |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park straddles the border between South Africa and Namibia. The South African Richtersveld National Park and the Namibian |Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park combine to protect over 6,000 km2 (600,000 hectares) of mountainous, arid habitat. The border between the two countries follows the sinuous curves of the sluggish Orange River – the longest river in South Africa and the only permanent water source in the entire region. On the South African side, the UNESCO Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape World Heritage Site is contiguous with the southern section of the national park. This vast area is communally owned and managed by the semi-nomadic Nama people, many of whom still follow the day-to-day traditions of their forefathers.
It takes time for the eye to adjust and appreciate the sharp geology and haunting beauty of this corner of Africa. At first glance, it is a remote desert that appears almost surrealistically harsh, baked hard under the searing sun, with some areas receiving less than 50mm of rainfall each year. Yet nature, in its indomitable manner, always finds a way, and the sharp quartz fields, plunging valleys, and sandy plains are bursting with endemic life for those who know where (and when) to look.
The mountains of |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld reflecting in the Orange River
Much of this life is centred around the Orange River valley, an oasis of green where even Cape clawless otters are occasionally spotted frolicking in the murky water. Away from the river, the region’s fauna and flora are sustained by the thick mists rolling off the nearby Atlantic Ocean, floating life-giving water inland to be soaked in and supped up by thirsty desert dwellers. The Nama people call these mists “Ihuries” or “malmokkies”, and they provide a vital supplement to the scarce rains. Though the timing and amount vary, these rains usually arrive in winter over the park’s western section. They, in turn, are followed by an explosion of colour as flowers emerge to drape the landscape in a multi-hued blanket.
The allure of the almost alien landscape is coupled with the thrill of transcending the frills and fancies of modern life. To visit is to humble oneself in a vast and silent wilderness, untamed and all but untouched. It offers the chance to truly vanish “off the grid” – to drive for hours without another person in sight, to picnic on the banks of the Orange River and pitch a tent beneath the inky sky.
In the Richtersveld wilderness, one can explore for days without seeing another soul
Sticks and stones
Strange though it may seem, rocks and plants are the superstars of the |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park experience. Some of the fascinating geological formations date back billions of years, with subsequent layers of rock displaying the history of the Earth’s epochs in an enormous geographic diorama. Massive granite boulders the size of buildings and streaks of blinding white Rosyntjieberg quartzite speak to the power of the ancient forces that shaped the very foundations of our planet. (Indeed, one particular formation even appears to bear the mark of a giant handprint, earning it the name Hand of God.) Moreover, the Namibian side of the park is home to the largest canyon in Africa – the Fish River Canyon (more on this later).
Some of the Richtersveld’s otherworldy mountains are made up of boulders as large as houses
In keeping with the topographical theme, the plant life here is equally hardy and rugged, though nonetheless beautiful in its own way. The botanical hotspot of the Richtersveld is home to thousands of plant species, of which over 30% are believed to be endemic, and some may even be undiscovered. The |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld region is also widely acknowledged by experts as home to the richest array of succulents.
Aside from their poignant mythology, the spikey halfmens trees (Pachypodium namaquanum) are iconic survivors found nowhere else. These rare plants grow during the winter months, facing north to take advantage of available sunlight, and when it rains, the tips are adorned in a headdress of crimson flowers. Equally striking are the towering shapes of the quiver trees (Aloidendron dichotomum), jutting into the sky against the barren backdrop. Charming little rock-like succulents of the Conophytum genus pebble the ground alongside chubby botterboom plants (Tylecodon paniculatus). Botanically, no other desert in the world supports such an abundance of life.
Halfmens trees are found nowhere else on Earth
Though the floristic displays somewhat overshadow the animal life, there are several species of antelope in the park, including grey rhebok, gemsbok, steenbok, klipspringer and kudu, as well as records of elusive caracal and leopard. Keen-eyed visitors may also be fortunate to spot some of the small herds of Hartmann’s mountain zebra – a rare subspecies distinguishable by a well-developed dewlap and stripes extending the entire length of the leg.
Richtersveld National Park
The South African portion of the Transfrontier park consists of several campsites, a network of 4×4 tracks and several seasonal hiking trails. The main entrance to the park can be found at Sendelingsdrift, which acts as the unofficial capital of the park. Here, visitors will find a shop, a swimming pool, the only fuel station, and well-appointed basic chalets with electricity: the last vestiges of civilisation before entering the wilds of the park. There is also a border post here, with a pont available to transport vehicles across the Orange River to the Namibian side of the park.
De Hoop and Richtersberg campsites are positioned on the lush banks of the Orange River, making them ideal for families. The river is crocodile-free, so unsupervised rafting and swimming are permitted, perfect for plunging in to cool off and wash away the day’s dust. Kokerboomkloof campsite lies away from the river, pressed against some of the most exquisite rock formations in the park. And for those that blanch at the thought of erecting a tent and cold showers, Tatasberg and Gannakouriep wilderness camps have chalets with solar-powered lights and gas geysers for the showers.
During winter, visitors can opt for overnight hiking trails ranging from one to three nights in the park. The company of an expert guide is highly recommended, but this is a visceral way to experience the park, encountering an amphitheatre, waterfall, gorges, Tswaies mountains, and springs along the way.
Tatasberg, situated on the edge of the Orange River, offers visitors solar lights and gas geysers
|Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park
Most of the activities and accommodations on the Namibian side of the park are centred around the Fish River Canyon. The name |Ai|-Ais means “burning water” in reference to the springs at the southern end of the canyon. Here, travellers can soak tired muscles and soothe sore joints in the thermal baths.
The canyon is Africa’s largest natural gorge, created by the Fish River, cutting deeply into a plateau over 600 million years. It reaches 160km long, up to 27km wide and around 550 metres deep in some sections. Panoramic views are a given, but it is also one of Namibia’s most popular hiking areas, with visitors opting to explore (or, for some very enthusiastic athletes, run) the entire length of the canyon. (Hiking the canyon must be booked in advance, and permission will only be granted on receipt of a medical fitness clearance.) Within the gorge, hidden caves hide ancient rock art, some dating back over 25,000 years.
Fish River Canyon
Explore & stay in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld
There is a particular breed of camper for whom no challenge is too great. These are the people with hiking boots practically welded to their feet, equipped with every camping convenience, who can change a wheel with the skill of an F1 pit crew and erect a tent with equal efficiency. |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is the perfect destination for such intrepid explorers. However, this is not to say that those with less experience should be intimidated; it is simply a matter of preparation.
The winter months, from around May until August/September, offer the best time to visit, both for the chance to witness the short flowering season and because the temperatures are slightly more bearable. This is, after all, a desert, and summer temperatures can peak over 50˚C before plunging towards freezing at night. Route planning is essential, as is a GPS to ensure that the planned route is followed. Throw in two spare wheels, plenty of fuel and an excess of drinking water, and you’re all set to explore the moonscape of the park from top to bottom. Remember not to leave any valuables outside overnight, as the malmokkies may blow in overnight!
A majestic quiver tree – a common sight in the park
Final thoughts on |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld
There is an undercurrent of magic in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, which makes it possible to believe that perhaps strange plants were men once and that giant hands played a role in shaping the landscape. The improbable biodiversity in this beautiful but harsh landscape is infinitely fascinating, offering the opportunity to embrace Africa in all her weird and wonderful ways.
Few countries in Africa offer birding opportunities quite as magical as the feast served up by Uganda. A birding safari to Uganda provides the chance to rack up fantastic sightings, with more than 1,065 bird species recorded in the country. Uganda’s diverse habitats cover high and low altitude ranges, from afro-montane rain forests and wooded landscapes to grassland savannahs, marshes, papyrus swamps, fallow agricultural lands, lakes and arid areas. The result is an astronomical diversity of birds to see.
When birding and wildlife photographer Col Roberts challenged teamAG’s resident birding pro, Christian Boix, to weave together a month-long birding safari covering the majority of the country’s habitats, AG’s safari experts were thrilled to oblige.
“To make things more interesting, I specified that I was mainly interested in seedeaters – waxbills, weavers, whydahs and parrots,” says Col. “But, how could I refuse other beauties such as turacos, barbets, papyrus gonoleks and the prehistoric-looking shoebill? I also specified I had a limited budget and was happy to stay in mid-to-budget-range accommodation.”
With that, teamAG got to work, and Col was soon off on a birding odyssey across the country, with Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp), Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve, Kidepo Valley National Park, Masindi, Kibale Forest National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mabira Forest Reserve, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Lake Mburo National Park lined up on his itinerary.
Cover image: Great blue turaco in Kibale Forest National Park
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
As home to many endemic and rare bird species, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the soul of Uganda birding. About 350 species, including 24 Albertine Rift endemics, can be found within Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
(Clockwise from top) The lush surrounds of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; on spotting a dusky twinspot, Col says, “I was advised that the chance of seeing one was low, but our guide Saul picked up their call in a cultivated area near Bwindi’s Ruhija section”; a dusky crimsonwing was high on Col’s list of target species; spotting a Kandt’s waxbill in Bwindi was also a highlight of Col’s Uganda birding trip
Mabira Forest Reserve
Mabira Forest Reserve is the largest natural forest in the central part of Uganda, and hosts about 315 bird species. While conditions for photography can be tricky (as with all forest birding), a trip to the forest guarantees excellent sightings.
(Clockwise from top) The dense thickets of Mabira Forest Reserve; black-and-white mannikins perched on sugar cane, photographed during some farmland birding; a grey-headed nigrita photographed in the forest
Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve
Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve is the largest wildlife reserve in Uganda, hosting more than 242 bird species, including savannah birds, migratory birds and endemics.
(Clockwise from top) “I was fascinated by how the white-crested helmetshrikes searched for food together and flitted about from tree to tree in a group,” says Col; a red-and-yellow barbet spotted while driving between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a red-cheeked cordon-bleu photographed just outside Col’s accommodation at Pian Upe Wildlife Authority bandas
Kidepo Valley National Park
The remote Kidepo Valley National Park stretches across the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda and is home to over 450 species of birds. Vast tracts of savannah are dotted with hills and rock clusters, traversed by the forest-flanked Lorupei River.
(Clockwise from top) White-crested turaco photographed en route between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a sighting of a purple grenadier within Kidepo Valley National Park, not far from the South Sudanese border; a black-bellied firefinch – a reasonably common sight in Kidepo Valley; Kidepo Valley is also a prolific wildlife-viewing destination, with elephant sightings common in the park
Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp)
Lake Victoria is the largest freshwater body in Africa and is home to about 260 bird species. From Entebbe and Lake Victoria, travellers can easily access Mabamba Swamp and its papyrus-lined marshes – for excellent sightings of shoebills.
Col spotted several shoebills while visiting Mabamba Swamp (Lake Victoria); seeing grey parrots in the lush grounds at Karibu Guest House in Entebbe was a highlight of the trip
Kibale National Park
Six Albertine Rift endemics occur in Kibale Forest, and about 375 bird species can be seen across the area’s wetlands, tropical forests, woodlands and savannah.
Col photographed a papyrus gonolek outside Kibale National Park en route to Ntungamo; a sighting of a male red-headed bluebill (left) and female red-headed bluebill (right) in Kibale Forest
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Over 600 bird species have been recorded in Queen Elizabeth National Park across various habitats – from savannah to dense forest, lakes and wetlands. Col visited the south of Queen Elizabeth National Park.
(Clockwise from top) A white-winged widowbird photographed by Col in Queen Elizabeth National Park; Queen Elizabeth National Park also features lush rainforest habitat; and a fan-tailed widowbird also seen in the park
Lake Mburo National Park
Lake Mburo National Park offers epic birding at its lake swamps, Warukiri and Rwonyo. Other habitats include dry hillsides, rocky outcrops and dense savannah. A total of 320 bird species occur here, including papyrus gonolek and shoebills.
(Clockwise from top) The lakes and swamps of Lake Mburo National Park offer excellent waterbird sightings; Col regularly spotted Ross’s turacos while in Lake Mburo NP; Uganda and Lake Mburo, in particular, provided plenty of opportunities for spotting grey-crowned cranes; green-winged pytilias were spotted often amongst cultivated fields and acacia woodlands; a black-crowned waxbill was also high on Col’s list of target species. “They were challenging to photograph amidst the acacias, but persistence paid off,” says Col
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🌟📷 And the winner is… 📷🌟
It seems impossible to believe, but the moment we have all been waiting for is finally here: it is time to reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images for Photographer of the Year 2023!
Over the four months of the competition, we received well over 7,000 entries, 361 of which were selected to feature in our weekly galleries. Given the exceptional standard of photographic talent on display, choosing the best of the best was a formidable task. We are incredibly proud of this year’s gallery of champions – congratulations to you all!
I want to extend our thanks on behalf of teamAG to each and every photographer who shared their celebration of Africa with us. Every year, we comment on what a privilege it is to be treated to such a display of artistry, patience, dedication, good fortune and technical mastery of the photographic craft.
Last but not least, leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they may inherit them. In our story below, fascinating research reveals what genetic conclusions we can draw from leopard pelage patterns.
Jamie Paterson – Scientific Editor, Africa Geographic
Are you yearning for a travel fix but not sure where to start? Find inspiration for your unforgettable safari getaway from our featured experiences below:
Chitake Springs – Mana Pools – 6days/5nights – from US$ 4,130 per solo traveller Only two spots left on this epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides and devised for adventurous travellers and photographers seeking raw, untamed wildlife action. There are few better places than Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park to witness dry season Africa at its most dramatic. Departing September 2023. The perfect safari for solo travellers, as there is NO single supplement.
Stay at Pelo
Pelo – a remote and charming camp on a heart-shaped island in the Okavango Delta – takes its name from the Setswana word meaning “heart”. A birder’s paradise, this delightful retreat was designed as a light-footprint camp, built using natural materials, operating on 100% solar power and offering low-impact, carbon-neutral activities.
Bucket list gorilla experience
Thank you to the Spencer family for the 5-star review. We are thrilled that you chose teamAG to craft your dream Rwanda safari.
“My family and I have just returned from a wonderful trip to Rwanda to see the gorillas . It was a trip of a lifetime – a bucket list trip that was realised! The sightings of the golden monkeys and gorillas were absolutely amazing and so were the local tours. The guides, rangers and our driver were so professional.
Thank you Christian for arranging an unforgettable trip.”
WATCH: One of those Mara River crossings where the herds just kept coming. What a fantastic experience! Note that the vehicle was not blocking the path of the herds (01:45). Click here to watch
Ladies and gentlemen, prepare to be dazzled as we unveil the highly anticipated winners of our prestigious Photographer of the Year 2023 competition! After careful consideration, we are thrilled to reveal the talented individuals who have best captured the essence of Africa through their extraordinary photographs.
The winner and two runners-up will share the impressive $10,000 prize money, and they and their partners will join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife, Lizz, on the ultimate private safari in the wilderness paradise of Botswana.
This year found us enjoying more high-quality entries in the final selection month than ever before, and this final selection of the winners was a particularly tough one. This gallery of our winners emphasises the gobsmackingly awesome biodiversity of this place. Just wow!
What stood out for us this year was how well our entrants captured movement (sometimes in poor light), and this year we decided to select our top three entries based on that aspect of photography. We don’t decide these things beforehand; each year, the entries lead us down different paths of celebration.
Lastly, a word about the use of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance and generate photos: we suspect that AI will dominate all photographic competitions going forward – including the submission of computer-generated images – and so we will need to change how we manage our selection process. We have no interest in permitting computer-generated images into our space, but using AI to enhance images is another story. AI will become as much a part of photo editing as Photoshop is now, and it’s up to us to draw firm lines in the sand if we are to continue celebrating authentic photography. Technology-driven change is a constant in this industry, some good and some bad. It is what it is; we will keep working hard to deliver on our promise of celebrating Africa (the real Africa) and doing good. On that note, every photographer in this Winner’s gallery submitted RAW photographic files for our inspection.
Congratulations to every photographer that made it through thousands of entries to appear in our weekly selections, Top 101, Finalists and these Winners. Thanks for trusting us with your beautiful work, and please keep the flag of authentic photography flying high. See you again in 2024!
Capturing this big male lion shaking his mane in such sharp focus is no mean feat. The challenges of rapid movement and early morning light are met with great skill, and the excellent post-production edits create a dramatic yet moody image worthy of our award. The backlit halo of water droplets creates an otherworldly effect.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘It’s all about learning to dance in the rains.’ At the line of the equator at an altitude of over 5,000 ft (1,534 m), the Mara rains create a captivating display of water and sun, blending together in a vibrant tapestry of light and shade. This breathtaking phenomenon is rarely witnessed elsewhere but is unknown to many who avoid visiting during the monsoon season. On that particular day, dark rain clouds were gathering, and we decided to venture out in search of male lions as they presented our best photographic opportunity. Fortunately, the Black Rock lion pride had been spotted near our camp earlier that day. We quickly located the pride, consisting of a dozen lions, including two males and a few cubs. The next step involved waiting patiently, peering through the viewfinder in anticipation of capturing the golden moment when the lions would shake off the water from their manes. It was crucial to find an angle with a dark background for the composition, as only against such a backdrop could the flying droplets of water gleam like stars. By utilising a higher shutter speed, I was able to freeze those airborne, luminous droplets, resulting in the captivating image presented here.”
About photographer Remya Warrier
Remya Warrier is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist hailing from Kerala, India. She completed her wildlife field guiding course in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve in 2018. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. Remya was settled in Singapore and used to conduct nature walks and talks for kids and adults, spreading flora & fauna knowledge among them. She, along with her husband & friends, also set up a farm in India. There she established afforestation projects that have restored natural water cycles and seen the return of several bird species. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives. She also co-founded Rhino Lovers NGO & Osero Sopia River Camp, Maasai Mara, Kenya.
This is the leopard picture that everyone wants to get – that split-second after mating when the male bounces away to avoid the inevitable backlash. The low angle, shallow depth of field and sharp focus capture the moment perfectly and emphasise that unique leopard ability to exude power and grace simultaneously.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I located these leopards in a tree during the mid-morning. While in the tree, the female leopard would approach the male and nudge him to initiate mating. However, he showed no interest in her. Returning later, I waited for the leopards to descend the tree. After a few hours, they began to show signs of getting active. I had photographed this male leopard before and recognised him as a younger individual. Shortly the leopards began the mating ritual. However, the male’s inexperience seemed to exacerbate their confrontation, and the action and expression were quite intense. Capturing this image was challenging as the light was fading quickly. I used a 2.8 aperture and higher ISO to maintain a fast shutter speed. This image was selected and presented to the president of Botswana from the safari lodge and reserve where it was taken.”
About photographer Kevin Dooley
Kevin Dooley, an award-winning Wildlife and Portrait/Wedding Photographer from Placitas, New Mexico, discovered his passion for photography at age 14 when he received a 35mm camera as a gift. He holds a photographic craftsmen’s degree, a master’s degree, and the prestigious imaging excellence award from the Professional Photographers of America’s degree program. Starting as an assistant and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin embarked on a lifelong photography career. After serving in the US Navy, he established his own photography studio in Albuquerque, which garnered numerous awards and publications over its 40-year operation until its recent retirement. Africa holds a special place in Kevin’s heart, and he enjoys sharing its wonders with others, teaching about wildlife, trees, and the region’s history. He is also a compassionate humanitarian who uses photography to inspire and foster a love for life and nature.
Few will get to encounter a desert-adapted chameleon in a sandstorm – let alone capture the moment perfectly. The horizontally propelled sand particles ricocheting off the grimacing, slit-eyed reptile creates the scene, and the shallow depth of field and sharp focus do the rest. To lie down to achieve the low-level perspective in a sand storm that could damage your equipment speaks to the authentic journey of a passionate wildlife photographer
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The Namib desert is one of the most extreme environments on Earth, with a complete lack of surface water and temperatures exceeding 45˚C in the daytime. Despite this, life is abundant if you know where to look. Sandstorms are frequent, with winds blowing down from inland mountains that stir up fine sediment and particles. A Namaqua chameleon has to endure the sting of the sand pebbles blowing against its skin while we were lucky enough to escape to the relative comfort of our 4×4.”
About photographer Dewald Tromp
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in a small rural town called Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent in the Kruger National Park or camping or hiking. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and interesting wildlife. Through his images, he would like to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
The moment of bliss as this old soul fills his lungs is well-captured. We can almost smell the smoke and feel the sensual overload as he is transported into a relaxed state. The low angle and shallow depth of field create distance between him and us; the portrait does not seem to be at the expense of his personal space.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“We had sat down for a rest one afternoon under the shade of some trees while on our walk, and this San elder took out what I first thought was a pipe. It turned out to be his smoking apparatus, and upon closer inspection, it was an old artillery shell. He had just danced himself into a trance last night before passing out, and I was curious if it had something to do with what he was smoking. We swapped, and I took a puff. It was nothing I was familiar with, but it didn’t have any expected effects – it was natural and slightly herbal. We had spent two nights with this San tribe in Xai Xai to understand their lives in modern Botswana better and to experience a taste of what it used to be like. This photograph was taken on Expedition Kalahari, as part of a trilogy on Botswana’s three habitats: the Okavango Delta, the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and the Kalahari Desert.”
About photographer Alwyn Chong
Alwyn Chong is a photographer based in Singapore, where he also shoots for Leica Camera. He has a passion for black and white photography, and his motivations extend to storytelling through his photographs. He is a self-published photographer of two books: “Odyssey ‘Picturing and Imaging the Okavango Delta'” and “Finding the Other Side, Horizons Upon the Makgadikgadi” which document his expeditions in Botswana (a country that holds a special place in his heart).
There are about 125 mature Perrier’s sifaka left in the wild – making this critically endangered primate the rarest lemur on Earth. As if the task of finding one is not challenging enough, the photographer overcame bright sky, jet-black lemur fur and poor woodland light to create this evocative image of a sifaka seeming to peer out of the abyss of its conservation status.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“This image was captured in the forests of Anjahakely, northeast Madagascar. The hope for the day was to locate and photograph the critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka, not an easy task with an estimated 125 mature individuals left in the wild. Luckily, with the help of local guides, I found them and started shooting. Let me tell you, photographing such dark animals while looking up into a bright forest canopy is not easy. Eventually, after following the lemurs through the rough terrain, one stayed still long enough for me to capture this shot. I loved how the sifaka looked up into the light breaking through the canopy high above. Amazingly we both held still long enough for me to shoot this at a shutter speed of 1/80 of a second, adjusting my ISO to compensate for the dark forest. A matter of seconds after this shot, it had bounded through the trees and was at least 50 metres away. A memorable day in the wilds of Madagascar.”
About photographer Andrew Macdonald
Andrew Macdonald is a freelance photographer and videographer from Scotland who currently resides in Cape Town. He is passionate about all things wildlife and nature, and he hopes that viewers of his work can see the photos and feel them, too, as he tries to capture the most emotive moments. His photography has taken him from his small hometown village in Scotland all the way to the South Pole, and he is always ready for an adventure with his camera in hand.
This layered chocolate cake forest elephant in the middle of a muddy baï seems caught in a moment of indecision. The whiff of humans has triggered a silent alarm, but the protection of cover is some way off. The photographer has perfectly captured the body language of this secretive giant of the dense, gloomy rainforest
Photographer and photo details – read more
Dzanga Baï is one of the most famous gathering places for elephants anywhere on the continent, if not worldwide. This enormous clearing, located deep in the heart of the seemingly impenetrable Central African forest, can be occupied by up to 150 elephants per day as they amble from the surrounding forests into the baï to mine for minerals, paint themselves in the varying tones of earth that are all around the clearing, and socialise. Mining is a key part of the daily ritual for forest elephants, fulfilling a dietary niche, and baïs such as Dzanga are essential in allowing this activity to occur in peace. Whilst photographing the region for an upcoming book, I had the privilege to work there for a couple of weeks and witness the comings and goings of these gentle giants from ground level…some a bit more curious than others!
About photographer Andy Skillen
Andy Skillen has been a wildlife photographer and photojournalist for nearly 30 years, covering natural history on all continents. In addition to books and magazine articles, Andy supplies fine art limited edition prints to collectors worldwide and engages in talks and trip-leading on an international basis. Andy’s passion is conservation, and as such hopes that the places he visits, documents and reports on inspire others to see the wonder in the wild that surrounds them and step up to take an active part in its preservation.
This photograph had us marvelling at how much food can be stuffed into the gaping maw of such a tiny bird – rigid carapace, wings and all! But also about how hard the parents work to fledge their broods. An excellent natural history portrayal that makes us appreciate less popular photographic subjects!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“After a long morning self-drive in Pilanesberg National Park, I decided to stretch my legs and visit Mankwe Hide. This hide, located on the western edge of Mankwe Dam, provides great opportunities for photographing birds and other wildlife. While standing in the hide, I heard the familiar noises of chicks begging for food and found two juvenile white-throated swallows perched on a support beam. They were in an awkward position, the difficult angle making it challenging to maintain stability and focus. Luckily, I did not have to wait long as one of the parents swooped down, resulting in a flurry of movement. I was not sure if I managed to get the shot, but I was delighted when viewing the results on the back camera screen. What a surprise to see the size of the dragonfly caught and fed to the chick!”
About photographer Dustin Van Helsdingen
Dustin, a 39-year-old nature and wildlife enthusiast based in Rustenburg, South Africa, discovered his passion for wildlife photography in 2014 when his wife gifted him a DSLR camera for his birthday trip to a private game reserve. Since then, he has been captivated by the world of nature and wildlife. Regular visits to game reserves have provided him with countless opportunities to observe and capture the behaviour of animals, granting him a deeper understanding and unique perspective of their world. It’s not just about the iconic Big 5; Dustin has developed a newfound appreciation for the beauty of landscapes, trees, insects, and all living things. Through his lens, he perceives the world with a new lens (excuse the pun!).
The swirling mud and choice of black & white combined with the front-on, low-down perspective grabbed the eyes and left us pondering—a marvellous portrayal of this threatened and seldom-seen gentle creature of the seas
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘ Critically endangered.’ Once a common sight around Africa, dugong populations have drastically declined due to seagrass habitat loss, human pressure, and the potentially devastating impacts of climate change on their main food source. Thankfully, the Lagoons of Abu Dabbab in Egypt still offer refuge for a few of these majestic sea creatures. In August 2022, I had the incredible opportunity to observe a large male dugong feeding in the area. After hours of studying its behaviour, I positioned myself to capture an image showcasing its raw power and beauty as it vacuumed up seagrass amongst the billowing sediment clouds.”
About photographer Francis Glassup
Francis Glassup, a graduate in Oceanography from the University of Plymouth in the UK, is an accomplished underwater photographer whose works have garnered recognition in several underwater photography competitions. With a deep affinity for the ocean, Francis finds solace and fulfilment beneath the surface, capturing captivating moments as he patiently awaits the unexpected. Through his photography, he aspires to raise awareness about the imperative need for robust conservation efforts to protect our precious oceans.
So, how many words is a picture worth? This poignant photograph has a specific raison d’être – to generate international awareness and support for the plight of Central Africa’s primates. The onslaught of poaching for bushmeat, muti and the pet trade threaten the remaining populations of great apes and other primates. We think the photographer has succeeded admirably in his mission.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Bakossi, a Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes ellioti), explores her surroundings with curiosity in the comforting presence of her dedicated caregiver, Queen. Orphaned chimpanzees, like Bakossi, require intensive care and compassion to recover from the trauma of losing their mothers. Shockingly, for every infant chimpanzee captured alive, an estimated 5-10 chimpanzees are killed in the wild. Queen is part of the team at Limbe Wildlife Centre, a rescue and rehabilitation centre focusing on the unique species of Cameroon. With 30 years of experience, the centre provides love and commitment to help traumatised chimpanzees build trust and embark on their rehabilitation journey. Currently, the Limbe Wildlife Centre cares for 41 chimpanzees, 14 western lowland gorillas, 67 drills, and more.”
About photographer Gerard Carbonell
Gerard Carbonell, born in Barcelona in 1999, is a biologist and dedicated conservation photographer. Through his captivating images, Gerard endeavours to deepen our comprehension of the natural world and our intricate connection with it. His primary objective as a photographer is to raise awareness about the significance of biodiversity and its habitats, shedding light on the commendable efforts undertaken by various organisations and local communities to protect them. Gerard’s compelling visual narratives aim to instil a sense of urgency among people, encouraging support for conservation initiatives.
The photographer’s journey to achieve the desired result you see here is what makes this an epic capture. Hannes (our 2021 Photographer of the Year) combines detailed planning, patience, the right equipment and exceptional technical skill to tell the story of a small waterhole in a South African private game reserve.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“After months of monitoring the waterhole, I noticed the spotted genet’s interest in the fish underwater. To capture this moment, I placed a camera in a homemade waterproof housing and triggered the camera from a distance. I utilised three different light sources: a soft light for underwater and two bounce sidelights. I worked on this particular image for a few years: photographs like this need a lot of planning, and you need to know exactly where, when, and how long these animals are in the area. Then, they must do exactly what you hope they will do. That’s why it took me quite a few years to get this image.”
About photographer Hannes Lochner
Hannes Lochner is an acclaimed wildlife photographer with over 15 years of experience. He has produced five stunning photographic books, three focusing on the Kalahari. Hannes dedicated six years of his life to living in the Kalahari and spent hundreds of hours capturing mesmerising images of its unique landscape and enigmatic inhabitants. He then ventured to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, spending two and a half years there with his wife, Noa, who handles the filming for their projects. Hannes is working on his sixth publication, “Once Upon a Time.” The image provided is the cover of his upcoming book, set to be published this year.
Less is more. Tree frogs make delightful photographic subjects, and we receive many fantastic entries displaying them in various poses and locations. This entry stood out for us because the peering frog creates the impression of a show about to start – of actors gathered nervously behind the curtains, peering out at the hushed, expectant audience.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“During our visit to Durban in December 2022, we enjoyed staying near a small stream. I had hoped to spot a little forest tree frog in the area. I could hear their calls every night, but they remained elusive in the treetops. One rainy night, I ventured out and diligently searched until I found a couple of frogs to photograph. Two days later, just after sunset, I spotted this particular frog (having a rough idea of its hiding spot) and seized the opportunity to capture this unique photo. The frog was quite shy, as it was still early evening, creating the perfect conditions for this shot. While they blend seamlessly into their daytime surroundings, these frogs come alive at night, vocally announcing their presence and showing no fear of human scrutiny.”
About photographer Hendrik Louw
Hendrik has been an amateur photographer for the last 24 years and still enjoys it to its fullest extent. His love for photography started with a second-hand camera in 1999 when he joined a photographic club. He enjoys all genres of photography, but his real passion is macro photography. Frogs, mantises, and spiders tend to visit his camera fairly often when in the right environment since he is madly in love with these colourful little creatures. He is also one of the few macro photographers playing with alternative techniques such as wide-angle macro. His macro photography has earned many achievements, including several awards in multiple international photographic competitions. Despite being an amateur, he enthusiastically shares his passion through workshops and participation in photographic congresses. Outside of photography, Hendrik is an environmental manager and climate change specialist.
Who doesn’t like a great predation action photograph? This, too, is a popular theme amongst entries to Photographer of the Year, and for us, there has to be more than blood and crazy eyes. The photographer caught this fast-moving moment perfectly, as the large male topi fights for its life, and the cheetah coalition males combine forces to bring him down.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“These cheetahs are part of the renowned “Tano Bora” coalition, originally consisting of five cheetahs, and we were closely monitoring them as their hunting skills are legendary in the Maasai Mara. On this day, a lone topi approached the cheetahs, triggering their swift transition into hunting mode. While camera settings and tracking skills are important, understanding animal behaviour and terrain is crucial for success. Our guide, Jackson Ronko, skilfully positioned us about 150m away, anticipating the hunt’s trajectory along the ridge line. The cheetahs chased the topi against the backdrop of a clear sky and successfully made their kill. The image captures the moment when the cheetahs brought down the topi, showcasing their hunting prowess to bring down such large prey. Overall, the experience highlighted the importance of knowledgeable guides like Jackson, who can anticipate animal behaviour and position photographers for incredible opportunities.”
About photographer Ivan Glaser
Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019 an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan joined an Africa Geographic photo safari to the Maasai Mara. Under the expert guidance of renowned Norwegian wildlife photographer Arnfinn Johansen and in the welcoming embrace of Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Ivan’s wildlife photography skills radically transformed, reaffirming his love for Africa. Now in retirement, he is wholeheartedly pursuing his lifelong passion for wildlife and wildlife photography. Ivan continues to make regular trips back to the Maasai Mara, hosting guided safaris for small groups of fellow wildlife and photography enthusiasts who share his love for the natural world.
Two things stand out for us about this photo. Firstly, the clarity around the eye of the ground-hornbill. We optimise images for web purposes but rest assured that this image is crystal clear. Secondly, the subject matter – any bird eating a tortoise is an eye-opener for most people, and seeing the tortoise all mushed up in the hornbill vice-grip brings home the message of the ruthless cycle of life.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“As the sun set over the Okavango, I was pressed for time. With Fabio as my guide, we ventured out from Duke’s Camp, aware that daylight was fading fast. In the marshland of the Delta, we unexpectedly came across a group of southern ground-hornbills. Amidst them, I spotted a striking solitary individual perched on a withered branch, its vibrant red collar contrasting with its dark feathers. Seizing the moment, I brought out my camera and aimed. I rarely use continuous shooting in my photography, so I took my time and held my camera as still as possible on a lower shutter speed to minimise blur. Back at camp, eager to review my shots and armed with a rusk and a cup of hot tea, I discovered a surprising detail: the ground-hornbill was feasting on a baby leopard tortoise! Excited, I couldn’t wait to share this remarkable find with Fabio.”
About photographer Jack Swynnerton
Jack Swynnerton, a professional photographer and videographer, was born in Australia but raised in Africa. Coming from a lineage intertwined with Tanzania’s history, Jack’s great-grandfather was the first game warden of Tanganyika (present-day mainland Tanzania), and his connection to the country runs deep. Growing up in Africa, Jack developed a profound affinity for the continent, its diverse cultures, and its people. After completing his high school and tertiary education in Scotland, Jack eventually answered the call to return to his homeland. Armed with newfound knowledge and a love for photography, he embarked on a journey to capture the beauty of Africa in his unique style. Recently, Jack has relocated to Nairobi, Kenya, where he offers his skills to prominent camps and companies in the region. With a passion for showcasing the beauty and soul of Africa, Jack continues to explore new areas and is emerging as one of the rising stars in African photography.
This photograph is a raucous celebration of the gaudy blooms and delicious bounty of the brief boer-bean tree flowering season. The shallow depth of field and crystal focus on the parrot’s eye completes the sense of zooming in on this private moment of party-time gluttony.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“During a family visit to Kruger National Park in August 2022, we witnessed a beautiful sight—a brown-headed parrot feeding on vibrant red flowers. The contrasting colours of the green parrot, red flowers, and blue sky created a picturesque scene. Exploring the campsites on foot provides excellent opportunities for bird photography, and I have been pleasantly surprised by capturing unique moments of smaller animals within the campgrounds. This particular parrot was remarkably relaxed, allowing us to observe it up close as it fed on the flowers. Getting close to wildlife and observing their behaviour is always a remarkable experience, and sharing this special sighting with my entire family brought me great happiness.”
About photographer Joschka Voss
Joschka Voss, a 33-year-old medical doctor from Niederkassel, Germany, has a deep passion for travel, particularly in wild and untamed places, with a special affinity for exploring Africa. His love for these destinations developed during childhood trips to remote locations like Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Okavango Delta, South Luangwa National Park, Hwange National Park, and more. Over time, Joschka’s interest in wildlife photography grew, and he self-taught himself through online resources and tutorials. He always carries his camera when on vacation, eager to capture captivating moments. Wildlife and landscape photography have become cherished hobbies and passions for Joschka, who relies on a Sony Alpha 7RV and Sony Alpha 9, along with the 200-600mm and 100-400mm lenses, for his wildlife photography endeavours.
Seeing giraffes in a sea of sand dunes warps the mind somewhat and makes us question our perception of where the world’s tallest terrestrial animal hangs out. Add to that the curves of their duelling necks against the wavy dune backdrop, and you have a photograph that catches the eye and asks questions.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The early morning light in the African bush provides exceptional photographic opportunities. While searching for desert-adapted lions in the Hoanib riverbed, the sound of repetitive thudding drew our attention. We discovered two bull giraffes engaged in a fierce sparring match. They took turns ramming their heads and horns into each other or evading the blows, creating a violent yet dance-like spectacle. This intense encounter lasted nearly an hour, and the barren backdrop of the Namib desert enhanced the beauty of their patterned coats as the sun rose over the horizon. Witnessing this extraordinary scene was a truly unique and special experience.”
About photographer Mark Nissenbaum
Mark, a Maxillofacial and Oral Surgeon originally from South Africa, moved to the USA in 2002, but leaving the African wilderness was heart-wrenching. To fill the void, he delved into photography, exploring nature in North America and Southern Africa, taking numerous courses and photo expeditions with professional wildlife and landscape photographers. Nature and landscape photography became his passion, and he finds joy in exploring the natural world with his wife and three sons and capturing its beauty. Mark believes life is an incredible journey, and his goal is to inspire others and foster a love for conserving and protecting our environment through his images.
We do love a bit of blood and gore to emphasise the brutal reality of wild Africa. And this is a fantastic study of why vultures have long necks with few neck feathers. Africa’s clean-up crew are under-appreciated by those who don’t get to see them in action; hopefully, this photo changes that!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“In the heart of the Maasai Mara during the wildebeest migration, we stumbled across a fresh kill and decided to wait for the lion pride’s return to resume their feeding. However, the lions did not reappear. Instead, the skies were soon filled with a flock of Rüppell’s vultures descending upon the carcass, transforming the scene into a frenzy of competition. Amidst the chaos of flying flesh and blood, one vulture stood out, thrusting its entire head into the carcass and emerging drenched in blood. Captivated by its determination, I followed its movements through the lens, aiming to capture a frozen moment of its feast.”
About photographer Michael Stavrakakis
Michael Stavrakakis is an Australian photographer who quickly developed a deep passion for the people, culture, and wildlife of South Africa during his first visit in 2016. Mesmerised by the experience, he decided to make Johannesburg his home from 2017 – 2018, using his free time to explore neighbouring countries and national parks with his camera in hand. Ever since, he has regularly returned to the continent to spend time doing what he loves most – being immersed in the African bush and capturing the beauty of its wildlife.
This epic capture of that geronimo! moment as a wildebeest commits to the abyss celebrates the chaotic melee of the river crossings during the Great Wildebeest Migration. A wonderful capture of a frenetic split-second in time.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘One decides, the rest follow.’ The Great Migration is one of the greatest natural spectacles on Earth, and the crossings at the Mara River are chaotic, dramatic, and action-packed. Thousands of wildebeest gather on the riverbanks before one dares to take the first plunge. I remember watching documentaries and looking at photos of this moment, wondering if I would ever have the chance to witness and immortalise the scene. After several years and failed attempts, nature granted me that perfect unforgettable moment—the majestic leap of a wildebeest over the water I had always envisioned. I froze that instant in time, capturing the intensity of the event through the image, allowing us to feel the energy and survival instinct that drives the animals during their migration.”
About photographer Nando Morales
Nando Morales, born in 1982 in Spain, is a passionate photographer who grew up with a deep connection to nature and always showed a great interest in the animals and nature around him. He was gifted his first film camera as a teenager, and his love for nature merged with his newfound passion for photography. He has sought many opportunities to immerse himself in pristine landscapes far from civilisation, but it is in Africa, particularly Kenya, where he found the most magical corner. He always strives to immortalise moments that will profoundly impact the senses of viewers, conveying emotions and telling stories that take them on a journey, enriching their lives through visual experiences. His photographs have been selected for exhibitions, and he has been a finalist in several international photography contests. Although he doesn’t pursue photography as a professional career, he continues to enjoy every opportunity to capture special moments and tell stories through his images. His love for photography and his desire to improve and grow keep him seeking new challenges and opportunities.
The story is in the eyes. Is this the end for me? Grim determination shrouded by the realisation that life may soon end is written all over this youngster’s face as it struggles against an ancient foe. The crocodile, on the other hand, is all reptilian business as it tries to secure another meal. What a story this photograph tells!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“When I arrived at the scene, I noticed several baboons gathered along the dry riverbank of the Tsavo River. I spotted a baboon in a puddle and began to film its supposed bath. Little did I know what was about to unfold…Suddenly, chaos erupted. The baboons began screaming frantically as the baboon in the water tried to escape. It wasn’t a simple fight between baboons but a struggle between the baboon and the crocodile. Each time the baboon tried to move or break free, the crocodile pulled it back into the water, attempting to drown it. The water level in the puddle was low, allowing the baboon to keep its head above the water and breathe. In moments of stillness, the baboon demonstrated remarkable composure, seemingly aware that movement could increase the risk of being submerged in deeper water. It patiently waited for the right moment, inching closer to the edge where it could find more support on the ground. After several attempts, the baboon finally managed to break free. It re-joined the group, and they swiftly departed from the area. The baboon bore several wounds on its face, suggesting that the crocodile had seized it while it was drinking from the river. Throughout the entire sighting, I stood alone, witnessing the intense encounter and capturing this moment on camera.”
About photographer Nicolas Urlacher
Nicolas Urlacher, a French photographer born in 1970, is currently based in Nairobi, Kenya. Despite starting his career as a teacher, his passion for images led him to explore various artistic fields, including cinema, photography, and painting. In 2013, Nicolas seized the opportunity to work as a Spanish teacher at the French School of Nairobi. His focus shifted from reportage to wildlife photography after capturing images of the Samburu and Maasai people. This transition allowed him to unite his passions for photography and nature, and he has dedicated most of his free time to a personal project: creating a bestiary showcasing Kenya’s wildlife. Nicolas emphasises the importance of field knowledge and species understanding in his approach to wildlife photography. He acts as his own driver and spotter in the savanna, valuing the solitude of the bush and the thrill of independently seeking and capturing the animals he wishes to observe.
The last thing lemurs see before their premature end? This photograph perfectly captures the athletic agility of the rarely encountered fossa, even in the arboreal dimension inhabited by lemurs, birds and other prey species. This arresting photo held our attention because of the unusual tree-level perspective.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I was looking for lemurs near the camp and saw this predator, which had its own plan for them. It didn’t catch a lemur this evening, but I captured its furious intent. The fossa is the largest mammal predator in Madagascar and an endangered species. This animal was photographed in Kirindy Mitea National Park. About 4% of Kirindy Mitea National Park and the nearby Menabe Antimena Protected Area disappear yearly. According to scientific projections, the entire protected area will have vanished by 2050.”
About photographer Sergey Savvi
Sergey is an accomplished wildlife photographer recognised for his captivating images capturing the beauty of nature. With numerous awards and accolades, including participation in renowned exhibitions and festivals such as Golden Turtle, National Geographic, Sienna Awards, and more, Sergey’s work has significantly impacted wildlife photography. He conveys the natural world’s remarkable moments and diverse wonders through his artistry, inspiring others and promoting conservation awareness.
GoPros are often used for up-close-and-personal photographs – because the robust camera can be left in position while the operator retires to a suitable distance. This unusual capture of a perilously-close elephant’s foot with the rest of the herd following on grabs the eye and intrigues.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Capturing elephants from unique angles on the ground has always intrigued me, especially when photographing their herds. I aimed to add my perspective to the collection of low-angle shots showcasing these magnificent creatures and their strong character. To achieve this, I opted for a discreet tool like the GoPro, allowing me to stay close without disturbing the elephants. The results of this experiment exceeded my expectations, leaving me in awe. The image revealed remarkable details, such as the massive foot—an often-overlooked feature symbolising their strength and resilience. It also showcased the elephants following their matriarch, set against a harsh environment of drought-stricken soil and the vast expanse of the sky. These elements combined to create a moment of intimate proximity that is otherwise hard to experience. Of course, GoPro loved sharing these!”
About photographer Vijayram Harinathan
Vijayram Harinathan, a wildlife photographer hailing from Chennai, India, has been dedicated to documenting the wildlife of East Africa since 2016. His expeditions have spanned various parks in Kenya, with Samburu, Maasai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo being his personal favourites. With a longstanding fascination for birds, he embarked on a photography journey in 2010, which has evolved into a profound passion for capturing unique perspectives, characters, and behaviours in the wild. Notable for winning the NaturesBest Mkapa 2022 category, he utilises his images to convey conservation messages and inspire others to explore the wonders of nature. Beyond photography, Vijayram also takes pleasure in reproducing his works as fine art/giclée prints in his own home.
How often do you see a flying hyena? This unusual ground-level perspective of the often-seen melee at a carcass grabs the attention and makes one wonder if they (the hyenas) ever manage to catch a vulture and what they would do with it if they did.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“A group of lions had been feasting on this giraffe carcass for several days. Once they left, the waiting hyenas and vultures eagerly seized their chance. Approximately 30 hyenas and over 100 vultures descended upon the scene, creating an incredibly interactive sighting. The hyenas were constantly on edge, fearing the return of the lions, and would temporarily retreat from the carcass, allowing the vultures to take over. However, the hyenas would quickly return, chasing off the vultures in a playful dance of dominance. Guided by my father’s expertise, we alternated positions under the Land Rover to capture low-angle shots. As luck would have it, I found myself in the right place at the right time, capturing a captivating image of a hyena leaping in the air in an attempt to catch a vulture. The entire experience unfolded in approximately two hours, etching an unforgettable memory in my mind.”
About photographer Wayne Donaldson
Wayne was born in Zimbabwe but spent most of his childhood in the renowned reserves of the Sabi Sands and the Timbavati in the Greater Kruger. His father, the legendary ranger Pat Donaldson, has dedicated his life to wildlife conservation, allowing Wayne and his brothers the unique opportunity to grow up in the African wilderness. 1996 Wayne became a qualified tour guide and co-founded a business with his wife Catherine in 1998. With a specialisation in wine guiding and holding a FGASA level 2 Nature Guide certification, Wayne has honed his skills as a keen photographer. Currently, Wayne focuses on organising and leading privately guided safaris and tours in Southern Africa. When he’s not guiding others, he can be found capturing precious moments of his children on the beach or indulging his passion for fishing.
Research shows that leopards inherit their patterns of rosettes and whisker spots from their mothers
Leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they do inherit them – to an extent. This is according to new research published in Mammalian Biology, which details the findings of scientists who set out to investigate whether images of leopards could be used to draw conclusions about relatedness.
One of the significant concerns with any decline in species population is the accompanying loss of genetic diversity, thus increasing levels of inbreeding and relatedness. This effect is exacerbated as the remaining populations are fragmented and isolated due to habitat loss. Loss of genetic diversity, in turn, makes animals vulnerable to inbreeding depression and offers less resilience in the face of stochastic events like drought or disease. Thus, monitoring the genetic health of a population is a priority for conservationists but can be extremely difficult where cryptic species like leopards are concerned.
Every leopard sports a pattern of rosettes and whisker spots as unique to that individual as a set of human fingerprints. Furthermore, motion-triggered cameras have long proved an invaluable tool for leopard researchers, allowing them to visualise leopards even in areas where the animals are all but impossible to observe directly. Thus, researchers wanted to determine whether or not the phenotypic similarity of individuals (the extent to which they share physical traits) could be used as a “proxy” for genetic similarity.
Whisker spots are are unique to individual leopards. For more photos from Derryn Nash, check out @pdnwildlife on Instagram
To do this, they used images gathered from the Sabi Sand Game Reserve in South Africa. This reserve was selected because records of leopard sightings date back to the 1970s, with detailed life history records of mothers and their cubs. (Paternity in leopards is impossible to establish without genetic analysis, as females will mate with multiple males and cubs in the same litter may not have been fathered by the same male). As a consequence, photographs of known related individuals could be compared.
The authors focused on flank rosette patterns, using sophisticated software designed for image analysis of individual animals (not unlike facial recognition software) to quantify the similarities between leopards. This meant examining characteristics like the number of rosettes, the total area covered, and the angles and distances between spots. They also investigated whisker spot patterns using a scoring method already established for lion identification.
Researchers were able to establish an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population
They found that mother-offspring pairs showed some phenotypic similarities in rosette markings and whisker spot patterns for six of the 15 traits measured. This finding aligns with similar research on giraffes and cheetahs and provides an exciting insight into the relationship between leopard genetics and their physical expression in pelage patterns. However, these similarities were not apparent across all samples from the population, and the authors conclude that phenotypic similarities cannot reliably be used to draw conclusions on the relatedness of individuals. As such, it cannot be used for biological monitoring.
Inheritance of physical traits is a complicated process, usually influenced by multiple genes and further complicated by environmental effects. The foundations have been laid for further research, along with an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population.
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Amboseli’s speared lions + pangolins in need
Some artificial intelligence (AI) wisdom for you. I was discussing the state of wild rhinos in Africa with ChatbotGPT, which offered that “Botswana is also home to a significant population of endangered black and white rhinos, which can be found in certain protected areas.“ It also recommended Hwange NP in Zimbabwe as a good place to find rhinos. Not so much, on both counts.
Then, a HUGE thank you to those who responded to our appeal last week to save poached pangolins going through rehab before release back to the wild. You know who you are. Meanwhile, poaching victims continue to arrive. The pang with broken ribs and tail is recovering slowly and has started to forage under supervision – her journey will be a long one. A new male that was brought in this week is going to be in hospital for quite some time as his tail is full of abscesses. And a large male confiscated from poachers has been released back into the wild.
Finally, I leave you with two (related) slices of inspiration:
a warning from the management team of my home wildlife estate: “Dear residents, please be aware that we have increased leopard activity on the estate. Please keep this in mind when walking with your pets.“;
and a quote from the book Where The Crawdads Sing: “It has always been enough to be part of the natural sequence of things.“
Till next week
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Two weeks ago in our newsletter, Simon wrote about the tragic spearing of six lions in Amboseli. They were killed inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – an non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the remaining wildlife of the Amboseli ecosystem. This week, Big Life CEO Benson Leyian offers his transparent comment on the incident in our first story below.
His account speaks to the devastating circumstances that led to the deaths of the lions but it also tells a tale of success against astonishing odds. Human-wildlife conflict is a veritable gauntlet where the stakes are quite literally life-and-death. It is one of the single greatest threats facing the planet’s remaining wildlife and is only going to get worse as climate change influences weather phenomena.
The grim journey towards balancing the needs of human beings and wildlife is set to be a long and painful one and not every step is going to be forward. What Big Life has managed to achieve in the last 20 years to mitigate this conflict in Amboseli should be lauded. I suggest reading Dr Leyian’s editorial below with a healthy dose of compassion for the trauma experienced by everyone involved.
And on a more cheerful note: are your eyes always drawn to the hills? Do mountains fill your soul with a sense of adventure? Well, Africa boasts some of the most spectacular and unique mountain kingdoms and we have selected some of favourites in our second story for the week. Feast your eyes on their panoramic views and otherworldly scenery.
Next week: brace yourself for the big reveal of our Photographer of the Year 2023 winners!
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/about-those-six-speared-lions-comment-from-big-lifes-ceo/
SPEARED LIONS
Six lions were speared to death by local residents in Amboseli. Big Life CEO Dr Benson Leyian explains what occurred, offers his comment on the complexities of human-wildlife conflict in the area and reaffirms that mitigation strategies are having a positive effect
Since the launch of this appeal, another poached pangolin has arrived at Provet, requiring intensive treatment and care. That is a total of five pangolins in under two weeks. Africa’s pangolins and dedicated veterinary staff need your support. Every little bit counts when it comes to raising the funds essential to saving the world’s most trafficked animal.
Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
EDITOR’S COMMENT: On Saturday, the 13th of May 2023, six lions were speared to death by angry local residents inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – a non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the wildlife in Kenya’s Greater Amboseli Ecosystem through a community-based collaborative approach. The retaliatory killings came after the lions killed 12 goats and a dog near Mbirikani town the night before.
In response to Africa Geographic’s coverage of the incident in our weekly newsletter, representatives from Big Life Foundation requested us to publish their transparent account of events. In the following editorial, Big Life CEO, Dr Benson Ntoyian Leyian, explains how the lions came to be killed, the challenge of reducing human-wildlife conflict and the complexities of the issues at play.
No one wants to wake up with a lion in their home. I know because it has happened to me.
I have had lions break into my boma (a Swahili word for an enclosure protecting animals and people). I’ve had them kill my livestock. I’ve felt the resultant anger. I’ve participated in a retaliatory lion hunt.
That was long ago. Today I am the CEO of Big Life Foundation (Big Life), a community conservation organisation based in the Greater Amboseli Ecosystem of southern Kenya. Humans and nature are inseparable here, and we implement a range of conservation programs designed to meet the needs of both.
But I still have livestock, lions still kill them, and I still get angry.
A cow killed by lions on Mbirikani Ranch (not related to the incident referred to in this article). Predation by lions and other wild predators evokes much anger in Maasai communities that rely heavily on their livestock.
On the 13th of May 2023, we witnessed an appalling expression of this type of anger in the form of a crowd that speared six lions to death on a community ranch between the Amboseli and Chyulu Hills National Parks.
A pride of nine lions had entered a boma overnight and killed 12 goats and a dog. They were in an area of dense human settlement, and after being chased from the boma, the lions retreated to the nearest patch of thick bush they could find, which happened to be a revegetation site within Big Life’s fenced headquarters. Big Life community rangers could move some of them out that night, but six remained inside at daybreak.
The Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and local community leaders soon arrived to meet with Big Life’s senior staff, and the decision was made to leave the lions in the compound. The intention was to wait until the arrival of a vet to assess the potential for translocation. All was calm, and staff from KWS and the Kenya Police Service were on site in case that changed.
News of lions in town travelled quickly, and a crowd soon began to swell, including the irate owner of the livestock killed the night before. The tension was building with each new arrival until, eventually, the collective control snapped. The crowd of about eighty men, most armed with spears, broke through the fence to go after the lions.
Some of the rangers standing in the way were armed, but any gunfire or use of force would have quickly escalated the violence and likely resulted in human injuries or deaths. The rangers stood down, and despite what followed, we believe this decision was the right one.
By the time the dust had settled, all six lions were dead.
A male lion is treated after being speared while killing a goat (also a separate incident to the six lions killed in this article), but succumbed to the injury.
The staff of Big Life are all shaken, and my intention in writing this piece is not to diminish the significance of what happened or to try and explain it away. Those of us working at the interface between humans and wild animals need to be honest and self-critical to progress. Big Life values transparency and welcomes constructive criticism.
In this editorial, I aim to address emerging suggestions that this incident is symptomatic of larger issues and trends and that community conservation efforts in Amboseli are failing. I want to counter this with some context, partly involving the story of one of Africa’s most extraordinary recoveries of a local lion population.
The Greater Amboseli Ecosystem is an area of approximately two million acres (just over 8,000 km2). However, only a fraction of that (around 5%) is protected by National Parks, with Amboseli National Park perhaps being the most famous. There are few fences, and many wild animals, including species such as elephants and lions, spend most of their time on Maasai community-owned lands outside of these formally protected areas.
As a result, conflict between predators and livestock has always been a part of life here. This conflict reached its zenith in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when irate livestock owners, aided by the emergence of poisons like Carbofuran (a carbamate pesticide), drove the Amboseli lion population to near extinction. At least 108 lions were killed between 2001 and April 2006, and while no one knows for sure, the population is believed to have dipped as low as 15-20 individuals in the entire ecosystem.
In response, Big Life and the leaders of the 330,000-acre (1,335km2) Mbirikani Group Ranch came up with the Predator Compensation Fund (PCF) in 2003. The idea of compensation for livestock losses was not new, but the innovative design of this program definitely was.
When a livestock animal is killed by a wild predator, Big Life sends a verification team to the site by motorbike within 24 hours. Evidence is gathered to determine what predator was responsible and what the circumstances were (including whether there was negligence on the part of the herder). The compensation figure payable depends on several such factors, and the livestock owner is issued with a ‘credit note’.
Every two months, these credit notes are redeemed at a PCF payout. That is Big Life’s commitment. However, the community has also made a commitment, which is not to kill predators or face stiff penalties if someone does. If anyone does kill a lion (or any predator), all credit notes for that area are invalidated. Anyone who was owed money doesn’t get it, and any lion killer faces the collective wrath of their community. In addition, the killers must pay a fine of seven cows for each lion killed, a hefty penalty in Maasailand.
The queues at a PCF payday show how many people are negatively affected by livestock predation, and compensation attempts to balance that somewhat. The number of people who stand to lose out if a retaliatory killing happens is large, leading to community self-policing.
With an extensive network of community rangers and undercover informants, almost no predator deaths go unnoticed, and the agreement can be enforced.
Almost overnight, the lion killings stopped. In the one and a half years before the Predator Compensation Fund launched, at least 31 lions were killed on Mbirikani Ranch. By comparison, in the twenty intervening years (prior to this recent incident), only 13 lost their lives to conflict with farmers. That’s a 97% reduction in lion killing. Since 2003, Big Life has compensated the loss of 48,648 livestock to wild predators (the majority were sheep and goats killed by spotted hyenas) across the area covered by PCF (currently 550,000 acres – 2,226 km2). It is an astonishing number, particularly compared to how few predators have been killed in retaliation.
PCF has not been solely responsible for the steep reduction in lion killing: many organisations and interventions have contributed, including Lion Guardians and the Born Free Foundation. However, the ‘available-to-all’ principle of PCF has made it the furthest reaching, and we believe it has been at the core of the behaviour change and increased tolerance of wild predators.
The lions have done the rest. Lion Guardians have identified at least 250 individual lions in the ecosystem today. That’s equivalent to a six-fold increase in lion density. It’s a stunning turnaround, and all the more remarkable that it has been achieved on community-owned land outside of a national park or reserve.
The recovery of the Amboseli lion population is one of the great conservation successes of the modern era, and the sheer number of lions now brings its own set of human-lion co-existence challenges.
And that’s just one piece of good news from Amboseli; the story is similar for other species. In 1978 the elephant population of the ecosystem was approximately 700; today, it is 2,000. Community participation in conservation efforts has been fundamental to these successes, and this participation was recently affirmed when the collective landowners of a million acres (over 4,000 km2) agreed to set aside 31% of their land for conservation areas.
What comes next is always difficult in a situation like this, particularly when attributing blame among a large group of people involved in a chaotic incident. Compensation payments are stopped as per the PCF agreement, but given the severity of this incident, Big Life has stopped funding for all community programs in Mbirikani. Following meetings with the community leaders, it has been agreed that this will remain the case until such time that the main participants in the killings have been identified. In addition to paying the fine that will total 42 cows (seven cows for each of the six lions), all those involved will be disqualified from receiving conservation-related benefits, including scholarships or employment. Whether the culprits will be prosecuted is yet to be decided and is a decision that will be made by the relevant government authorities.
Community conservation efforts are seldom linear. There are steps forward and steps back, and we must learn from both. Co-existence is challenging, but in Amboseli, Big Life is showing that humans and wildlife can share space when conservation programs are designed with the needs of wildlife AND people in mind.
Further context and reading:
The Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem (or Greater Amboseli ecosystem) in Kenya and Tanzania is one of the most iconic of Africa’s wilderness areas. It encompasses five world-famous national parks: Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Tsavo East and West, and Mount Kilimanjaro. These parks are unfenced, allowing for habitat connectivity and wildlife movement. However, the Group Ranches between them encompass areas of rural agriculture, homesteads and villages with high potential for human-wildlife conflict.
For more information on the Amboseli Ecosystem, see our article on Amboseli National Park
To learn more about human-elephant conflict in Amboseli, Josh Clay of Big Life Foundation explains the situation in Maasai, Maize & Mammoths
Though not everyone is a born hiker, there is no question that mountains speak to the souls of many of us. From mysterious valleys to towering peaks with panoramic views, there are mountains and massifs in Africa that are simply begging to be explored. We’ve compiled a list of our must-visit mountain kingdoms – selected for everything from their singular scenery to the creatures that call them home.
Amphitheatres, castles and cathedrals:
explore the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa
The “mountains of dragons” reach the highest elevations in South Africa and stretch along the eastern edge of the country’s Great Escarpment, separating the fringe lowlands from the central plateau. The Tolkienesque landscape, with its vertigo-inducing rock faces and plunging gorges, is a hiker’s paradise, with a network of trails suited to every experience level. It is a land steeped in history and legend, with ancient San rock art depicting scenes of giant serpents and “eland men” and fossilised dinosaur footprints forever etched in rock.
A view over the Drakensberg around Cathedral Peak
Gorillas and montane forests of the Albertine Rift: Virunga Mountains
There are only two remaining populations of mountain gorillas, and, as the name implies, they survive in the cloud forests at high altitudes. Whether the search begins on the slopes of the Virunga Mountains (in either Virunga National Park, Volcanoes National Park or Mgahinga National Park – spanning Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda) or within the forests of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, finding the gorillas requires a hilly ascent. These mountains are also home to many other natural and geographic treasures, including an assortment of mischievous primates and volcanic crater lakes. To find the ideal gorilla-trekking safari for you, click here.
The Virunga Mountains peeping out above the clouds
Fire and brimstone:
look into the heart of Mt Nyiragongo, DRC
The Virunga Mountains earn their second spot on this list because two of the eight major volcanoes are still active. Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, reaches a height of over 3,000 metres, and visitors who brave the climb to the summit are rewarded with a view of the world’s largest lava lake as it churns and bubbles. This sight is most impressive at night, so most camp on the crater’s rim, braving its fury for a glimpse of life below the earth’s surface.
Watch the bubbling lava of Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park
Follow in the footsteps of explorers:
Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda
The journey through the mystical Rwenzori Mountains begins at the terraced layers of the foothills and, for experienced climbers, continues to the snow-capped peaks of Mount Stanley at over 5000 metres. Here, alpine scenery meets tropical Africa, and climbers will move first through hardwood forest, and towering bamboo stands before reaching the alien-like vegetation of the Afro-alpine moors.
Explore the Afro-alpine moors of the Rwenzori Mountains
Climb to the roof of Africa in Ethiopia:
Simien Mountains
In northern Ethiopia, a spectacular massif exists where sharp crags and cliffs plunge into sweeping valleys decorated in a gentle palette of brown, green and amber. The primordial landscape of the Simien Mountains is home to some of the continent’s most unique creatures, including the Ethiopian wolf, the endemic Walia ibex and cheeky “herds” of scampering geladas. To the south, the Bale Mountains are equally enthralling, offering the opportunity to explore the fascinating alpine vegetation existing only 3,000 metres above sea level.
The Simien Mountains in all their glory
Summit the legends of Tanzania:
Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya
The majestic, snow-capped mountain of Mount Kilimanjaro needs little introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit Africa’s highest peak. As the climb is not particularly technical, Kilimanjaro is considered one of the easiest of the world’s tallest mountains to tackle. Not far from Kilimanjaro lies its “little brother” – the dormant volcano of Mount Meru. Less crowded than the more popular Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru lies in Arusha National Park, and the trail to the summit offer hikers spectacular wildlife encounters en route up the mountain.
The snowcapped curves of Mount Kilimanjaro
Explore the wilds of Kenya:
Mathew’s Range
The lush riverine valleys and forested slopes of the Mathews Range are an island of green surrounded by the red, arid lands of northern Kenya. This wonderfully remote mountain range is one of Kenya’s best-kept safari secrets. Visitors can explore the forest trails and mountain streams with local guides and encounter some of the region’s unique wildlife.
The lush slopes of the Mathew’s Range
Admire the beauty of Cape Town:
Cape Fold Mountains
Cape Town is unequivocally one of the most attractive cities in the world, nestled between the rugged Cape Fold Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. From the iconic Table Mountain to Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head, hiking is a popular pastime for locals and tourists alike. All are crisscrossed by a series of well-established trails which offer the chance to take in the breathtaking vistas and appreciate the unusual flora of the Cape. (And there is always the cableway for those looking for an easy route to the top of Table Mountain.)
An alternative view of Table Mountain
Explore Morne Seychellois:
Mahe, Seychelles
The granite island of Mahé – the largest of the Seychelles islands – rises out of the azure Indian Ocean and continues upwards to its highest point atop Morne Seychellois. 20% of the island is covered by the Morne Seychellois National Park, where visitors can explore the mangrove swamps and jungles before climbing to the island’s highest peak to admire the extraordinary view. (Remember to keep an eye out for the elusive Seychelles scops-owl and Seychelles kestrel on the way up!)
The dense vegetation of Morne Seychellois
Experience ancient Namibian history:
Erongo, Brandberg Massif
In the heart of Erongo (formerly Damaraland), the granitic intrusion of the Brandberg Massif is visible for miles from the flat Namib gravel plains. It takes several days to reach the peak of Namibia’s highest mountain, which can be a hot and challenging hike. However, the effort is amply rewarded by a sense of total isolation, distinctive rock features and countless examples of ancient rock art. En-route, explore the valleys and slopes of the Erongo mountains, and the iconic wildlife found in between.
The Hoanib River Valley cuts through the Erongo Mountains
Meet the oddities of Madagascar:
the Andringitra Massif
The Andringitra Massif is one of Madagascar’s most popular hiking destinations and is considered one of the island’s most biologically diverse regions. Away from the sharp cliffs offering impressive views of the plains below, moist tropical forests on the eastern flanks and dry forests on the west support a wide variety of endemic life, including 13 different lemur species.
Madagascar’s lush Andringitra Massif, situated in Andringitra National Park
Visit a shield volcano on a tropical island:
Piton des Neiges, Réunion
While Réunion is known more as a tropical beach paradise than a hiking destination, it is home to the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean – Piton des Neiges – which reaches over 3,000 metres above sea level. The park’s volcanic landscape is a designated World Heritage Site. The somewhat challenging hike to the summit is usually broken into two days, with many hikers rising early on the second day to watch the sunrise from the peak.
Dare to traverse Piton des Neiges, the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean
* Note: Due to political instability in parts of Ethiopia and DRC, travel advisories may be in place. Chat to our safari experts for guidance – see details below this story.
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Save the pangolins + our Photographer of the Year finalists
Join me in making a tangible difference in the war to save poached pangolins?
Early winter here in the bushveld means that peak pangolin poaching season has kicked off. The evil ones target the most trafficked animal in the world to feed the insatiable appetite in the Far East for imaginary medicinal remedies and culinary fads amongst the wealthy. Sad, disgusting, infuriating.
Last winter I visited a young female pang undergoing rehab here in Hoedspruit before her planned release back into the wild. This fragile cherub died from complications resulting from her being poached, stuffed in a box and kept without food or water for days before she was confiscated and brought to a local vet for rehab. I shed silent tears when I heard the news…
I hope with every part of me that YOU will join me by donating even a modest portion of your hard-earned money to this cause. Please go here to read more and to make a real difference at ground level in the war to save poached pangolins and return them to the wild. A luta continua!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Africa Geographic is all about crafting exceptional experiences for ALL varieties of safari enthusiasts. So if you want to inspire your next safari with us, check out some options below.
Akagera walking safari – 8days/7nights – from US$ 3,990 pps
Explore one of Africa’s most remarkable wild spaces in the company of professional wilderness trails guides. This 8-day package will see you walking the 60km north-south length of the Big 5 Akagera National Park in Rwanda. With five nights of rough-camping and two nights in the comfort of lodges, this is a fully immersive experience guaranteed to nourish the soul. Click the link above for a detailed itinerary
Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp – $3380 pps / $4205 per single
Nestled in a forest along the banks of the Mara River, Sentinel Mara Camp is an exclusive, owner-run tented eco-camp. It offers the perfect base to witness the Great Migration or soak in the other wonders of the world-famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. Take advantage of this high season “Stay 5 Pay 4” special, which includes flights! Valid from 01Jun-14Jul & 16Oct-19Dec 2023.
Contact our safari experts at travel@africageographic.com for further details
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
As you may have noticed, generative AI tools and their “creative” content seem to be everywhere at the moment. And while we are probably still some way away from machines taking over Terminator-style, few industries will escape the changes that ever-improving machine learning will effect.
For teamAG, this has particular relevance for our annual photography competition. Sure, there are clues one can look for in AI-generated images, but they are more subtle by the day. This year, and for all future competitions, we will require our winners to submit RAW files before the final announcements are made – for obvious reasons.
And with that out of the way, it is finally time to announce our impressive selection of the Photographer of the Year 2023 finalists! Congratulations to those who made it into the Top 50 – the competition was perhaps the fiercest since its inception. We are entering the home stretch now: the winners will be revealed in the coming weeks, so take a look through the galleries below and see if you can pick them out.
Finally, an answer to a question inspired by our social media community. Did you know that many of the wounds commonly seen on black rhino are caused not by fighting (as is often assumed) but by a tiny parasitic roundworm? You can read all about filariasis below.
A very special message (and a truly entertaining image!) from our clients who recently returned from their Namibian safari:
“It was really good dealing with Africa Geographic, especially when having the perfect attention of Risette, who was able to read and feel our profile and demands as clients perfectly…Everything was so well organized.”
WATCH:Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? (00:31). Click here to watch
Ever noticed wounds on the skin of a rhino? This could be caused by filariasis – infection with a parasitic worm
Every year, park authorities of protected spaces across much of Southern and East Africa deal with reports of injured black rhinos from well-meaning and concerned members of the public. In some cases, the injury is a genuine cause for concern. However, most cases involve something else entirely – a nasty, raw-looking, but generally harmless skin lesion. The culprit? A microscopic filarial worm.
Stephanofilaria dinniki belongs to the Filarioidea, a superfamily of parasitic nematodes (roundworms). These highly specialised parasites are spread by blood-feeding insects such as flies and mosquitoes, and many different species can infect people and domestic and wild animals. Infection by these filarial worms is known as filariasis and, if they invade the skin, causes severe dermatitis (inflammation of the skin) and severe itching. In people, they cause elephantiasis – massive swelling and thickening skin.
The open and weeping sores commonly observed on black rhinos (particularly in summer) were a subject of considerable speculation amongst experts for decades. For a long time, the dominant theory was that it was associated with the seasonal activity of secondary sex skin glands. However, in 1960 South African veterinarians and pathologists were finally able to isolate the cause. They collected several tissue samples from the ulcers and found the characteristic serpentine coils of nematodes in the superficial lymphatic vessels and tissue spaces. The surrounding cells – plasma cells and eosinophils (white blood cells) – were a testament to the host’s attempt to mount an immune response to remove the unwanted lodgers.
Fig 1 Extensive filarial-like lesions likely caused by filariasis in (A) a black rhino and (B) a white rhino. Photo courtesy: Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al
The infestations follow typical phases defined by the somewhat complex life cycle of the nematode. Larval nematodes (termed microfilariae) dominate when the wounds are most florid (red and raw). In the more chronic phases, the mature female Stephanofilaria dinniki burrow close to the surface, with uterine tubes filled with larvae. The inflammatory defensive response of the host’s immune system, followed by healing attempts, results in a fragile and highly vascularised granulation (pre-scar tissue) that bleeds very easily. This is why the wounds are often seen bleeding – even the lightest brush against a tree or rubbing post can damage the tissue. Eventually, the lesions become dormant, but often the damage causes scarring and thickening of the epidermis.
Though the life cycle of Stephanofilaria dinniki has not been conclusively researched, other members of the Filarioidea require an intermediate host, which could explain the seasonal pattern of the sores seen on black rhinos. Newly birthed microfilariae are not fully developed and need to mature in a blood-feeding insect before becoming infective and invading the next definitive host. As flies, mosquitoes and adult ticks are more abundant in the wet summer months, it makes sense that the wounds would be at their worst stage when the microfilariae are more likely to be spread. The open abrasions are attractive to ectoparasites and oxpeckers, which can also delay healing.
Fig 2 Photo showing treatment and sampling of an immobilised white rhino affected by filariasis. Photo courtesy Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al
Though black rhinos are particularly susceptible to invasions of these parasites, white rhinos, giraffes, and several other wild species have also been found with filarial lesions. However, it is still not fully understood why so few cases involve white rhinos, particularly given that the two species are sympatric across much of their range.
Fortunately, concerned observers of these somewhat painful-looking sores can rest assured that these are generally mostly just surface wounds that will clear up on their own each year.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023. ALL winners (winner, runners up and highly commended) must provide raw files of their winning submissions before our winners are announced.
This is Gallery 2 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023. ALL winners (winner, runners up and highly commended) must provide raw files of their winning submissions before our winners are announced.
This is Gallery 1 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.
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Mining Mana Pools + tragedy in Amboseli + Top 101 Photographer of the Year selection
A pride of lions has been speared to death in Kenya. The context surrounding this tragedy is important – so that we can direct our reactions with purpose and support those working hard to keep free-roaming lions safe:
Nine subadult lions broke into a livestock enclosure near Mbirikani town on the night of May 12th, killing 12 goats and a dog
Three of the lions were chased away and the remaining six were killed by angry villagers
Mbirikani is a settlement within Mbirikani Ranch – a wildlife conservancy in the greater Amboseli ecosystem – about 30km from Amboseli National Park
The area is unfenced and human-lion conflict is an ongoing issue, although 97% reduced since Big Life (who are based at Mbirikani) started a livestock compensation program in 2003
In a separate incident a few days prior to this, a 19-year-old lion known as ‘Loonkito’ was speared to death after he left the unfenced national park in search of food
In 2019, a lion mauled a man to death just outside the park, and in 2016 another lion was shot dead after attacking and injuring a local
The Governor of Kajiado County had this to say: “I would like to condemn this as a serious tragedy to us people who are pro-conservation, and as a community that has started to enjoy the benefits that go with conservation and wildlife. We are yet to fully establish what went wrong, but it is important for us to say that as a government, we support conservation and we condemn the act. I am sure that as a resilient community, a resilient people, we will overcome this.”
Is your creative side neglected? Check out our professional-led art safari and let Africa’s wildlife inspire you. Or take advantage of our incredible special offer and explore some of Kenya’s most iconic wild spaces. Contact our safari consultants soon so you don’t miss out!
Art Safari with Alison Nicholls – Timbavati – 7 days/6 nights – from ZAR60,150 pps
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger and channel it into artistry!
Fantastic special offer: Kenyan safari
Book your four-night stay at Mara Expedition Camp and only pay for three. And it gets better: why not add four nights at ol Donyo Lodge between Tsavo and Amboseli National Park? The same deal applies, and you have an eight-night safari for the price of six! Valid until the 14th of June. Contact us for enquiries.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that the oldest known cheetah ancestor came from a fossil found in the depths of the Silberberg Grotto in South Africa’s Sterkfontein caves? Scientists believe the animal lived over three million years ago and were larger but less speedy than our modern-day zippy cats.
I mention this because several cheetahs raced their way into our Top 101 selection for 2023’s Photographer of the Year competition. And what a collection it has turned out to be! The Big 5 all grace us with their presence, along with an abundance of iconic African wildlife and an eclectic collection of the weird and wonderful. Did your favourites make it in? You’ll have to peruse all FOUR galleries below to find out!
And now for a call to arms, so to speak. The Zimbabwean government recently announced that a local mining company had applied for an exploration licence for gas and oil. Their chosen land? The wilderness paradise of the Mana Pools ecosystem and surrounds. Though progress in the form of tearing up land and exploiting its resources seems to be an inevitable human pastime, are we seriously going to let it happen in one of Africa’s most precious wild spaces? Read the story below and then add your name to the petition.
Our 2023 Photographer of the Year entrants share their thoughts on having their images selected for our weekly galleries.
“Thx a lot for featuring a piece of my work in one of the weekly galleries! I’m honored that you reckon it worthy of showing! There are amazing submissions, I’m proud and happy about all those photographers sharing the passion for our beautiful world and in this case, particularly Africa!” – David Heucke
“Thank you so much…”Groom with a View”!..I wish I had your way with words!” – Turgay Uzer
“Thank you so much. Love this contest every year.” – Dylan Lee
“Thank you so much for the wonderful news and inclusion of one of my favourite photos in your weekly gallery. The quality of entrants this year seems to be a step above the already high standards of the past, so I really feel like I am part of a very select group and am truly honoured.” – Dirk Uys
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 3.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 4.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.
Shalom Mining has applied for permission to explore Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools for oil and gas, according to a recent announcement by the Zimbabwean government. The region is a designated World Heritage Site, and the application has been met with local and international condemnation.
Mining operations threaten the vast and fragile ecosystem of Mana Pools and surrounding wilderness areas. Photo: Matt Parvin
In a notice in the Zimbabwe Gazette dated the 28th of April, 2023, the Ministry of Mines and Mining Development revealed that Shalom Mining Corporation Private Limited (Shalom Mining) had applied to explore mining potential in the Zambezi. The exploration license – if granted – will allow the Zimbabwean company access to 130,000 hectares of wilderness habitat.
The proposed mining area falls mainly in Hurungwe Safari Area but will also include a section of Mana Pools National Park
Available information suggests that the exploration area falls mainly under Hurungwe Safari Area but will also encroach into a small section of Mana Pools National Park. The national park is part of an enormous, connected ecosystem that extends over some 1.7 million hectares and includes multiple safari areas and Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Farai Maguwu, the executive director of Zimbabwe’s Centre for Natural Resource Governance, has warned that mining in this region could result in an “ecological disaster”.
“It is very offensive to anyone who cares about Zimbabwe, nature, and conservation…it’s a piece of land that is of global significance…it has been recognised globally, and the government of Zimbabwe has committed itself, which means it produces reports every year on the status of conservation of that heritage site,” he said.
As per Zimbabwean law, formal objections to the application must be submitted by the 19th of May, 2023.
Legal stakeholders are encouraged to submit their formal objection (outlining their involvement in the area and the likely economic impact) in writing to the Mining Affairs Board addressed as follows:
To: The Secretary
Mining Affairs Board
Private Bag 7709
Causeway.
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Final weekly selection + epic travel ideas + Uganda’s secret valley
Lizz and I were walking the dogs a few days ago when a group of rutting impala bachelors came skittering through the receding autumnal woodland. Some with clacking horns locked as they jostled on the go, others snorting and growling loudly with exuberant energy. We stood quietly, our dogs entranced, as two grappling gladiators hurtled towards us with locked horns, seemingly blind to the world – total dedication to the cause of natural selection. They shot past a few meters away and melted into the bushveld. Sharing silent smiles, we resumed our evening stroll.
Just a gentle reminder that your place in this limited-availability rhino conservation safari (subsequently sold out) is waiting for you. This is a genuine conservation program – not a faux clipboard pantomime. Opportunities like this with responsible operators do not come around often; my advice if you would like to participate in a veterinary rhino program is to contact our safari experts via the prompts in the above link. Safari njema 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Have you been dreaming about looking deep into the eyes of a gorilla in the forests of Rwanda or wanting to play your part in rhino conservation in South Africa? Chat with our expert consultants for all your safari desires.
Gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda – 3days – From US$ 1,970pps
Rwanda’s world-famous Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa. This safari presents the perfect opportunity for intimate encounters with endangered mountain gorillas and enthralling sightings of endemic golden monkeys, flashy Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric-looking chameleons. Check out the link above for a detailed day-by-day itinerary of this life-changing adventure.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
True to form, our photographers delivered en masse for our final weekly selection in the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 competition. The last rush of entries was so spectacular that we are able to treat you to a trilogy of galleries this week, each one telling a different, unique story of Africa.
It is a bittersweet moment for teamAG when entries close for the year, and I think I can speak for all of us when I say that looking through the snapshots is the highlight of our week. I would like to take a moment to thank everyone who shared their photographic artistry with us and – by extension – the rest of the world. Every one of you is appreciated.
And now, of course, comes the painstaking process of selecting our finalists, and I can assure you that this is no easy task. Keep an eye out in the following weeks as we whittle our way down to this year’s top images.
Finally, with its lush forests, gently rolling savannas and vibrant papyrus swamps, all beneath the looming shadow of the Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda’s Semliki Valley safari experience is unlike any other in Africa. Set in the heart of the Rift Valley, at the geological crossroad of Central and East Africa, it is the ideal destination for the consummate nature lover. You can read all about it in our final story of the week below.
Story 4 https://africageographic.com/stories/semliki-valley/
SEMLIKI VALLEY
Semliki Valley is a land of extraordinary wild beauty, dense forest, vast savannah and magical hot springs – and Uganda’s best kept secret
In our forum this week
Kate Church from African Wildlife Vets (AWV) discusses snaring – one of the greatest threats to wildlife across Africa. She commends those working hard to remove snares found in protected spaces and praises the conservation teams that dedicate their time to saving and treating snare victims.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 3 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3.
In the heart of Africa’s Albertine Rift lies a geological crossroad, where primordial forces have given rise to a land of extraordinary wild beauty. In the folds of Uganda’s Semliki Valley, beneath the shadows of ancient mountain peaks, time seems to stand still. Here, the great forests of Central Africa gradually give way to the rolling savannahs of the East, creating a zone of transition that epitomises the best of both worlds.
Semliki Valley
The Semliki Valley is one of Uganda’s more remote wilderness regions, unspoilt by mass tourism and considered by many (especially avid birders) to be one of the country’s best-kept safari secrets. It runs the short length of the Semliki River from where it enters the country until it empties into Lake Albert and encompasses two distinctive protected areas: the Semuliki National Park and the Semliki Wilderness Reserve. The contrasting characters of the two wilderness regions – from ancient and eldritch forest to gentle savannah – ensure an astonishing array of biodiversity and centre the Semliki Valley experience around a profound appreciation of nature’s marvels.
A baboon spider photographed deep in the forests of Semliki Wildlife Reserve
Semuliki National Park lies on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), contiguous with the northernmost corner of Virunga National Park. Semuliki protects the easternmost extension of the mighty Ituri Forest, which stretches more than 500km to the Congo River and represents the only true tract of lowland tropical forest in East Africa. The landscape is dominated by Ugandan ironwood trees (Cynometra alexandri), interspersed with lush palm fronds and verdant ferns. Juxtaposed against this backdrop of green, a kaleidoscope of over 350 butterfly species of every size and hue flutter between shafts of light, and the forest is alive with a cacophony of birdsong. The dark woods are broken by startling open patches of papyrus swamps, the dramatic scenery of the Sempaya Hot Springs, and views of the glacier-tipped Rwenzori Mountains.
In contrast to the perpetual twilight of the national park, Semliki Wilderness Reserve (formerly Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve) is a breath of light and air. But for small patches of forest, most of the reserve is a mosaic of dry savannah grassland, riparian woodland and Borassus palms. Herds of elephant, buffalo and antelopes gather on the plains beneath the looming peaks of the Blue Mountains in neighbouring DRC to the west and the dramatic slopes of the Rift Valley escarpment to the east.
While names like Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks command the safari scene in Uganda, the Semliki Valley is perfectly positioned between the two – offering the unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a land before time. The region’s setting at the intersection between key habitats guarantees an electrifying combination of weird, wonderful, endemic, and unusual creatures.
The wetlands of Semuliki National Park
All aflutter in Semliki
While the national park and the wildlife reserve are home to some of the more iconic mammal species on the safari checklist, the Semliki Valley is best known for its remarkable birding. Uganda is one of Africa’s prime birding destinations, and many of the country’s most exciting species can be found in the west, where forest meets savannah. Over 435 bird species have been recorded in Semuliki National Park alone, including many Guinea-Congo forest biome species not found elsewhere in East Africa. Congo serpent eagles haunt the dark understories of the forest, while the lyre-tailed honeyguide’s crescendo taunts scores of frustrated birders every year.
An assortment of hornbills, including the red-billed dwarf, black dwarf and black-casqued hornbills, are generally considerably more conspicuous, and the nkulengu rail is an invariable highlight, as are the shoebills of nearby Lake Albert. Red-throated bee-eater, spot-breasted ibis, Oberländer’s ground thrush, piapiac, blue swallow, snowy-headed and blue-shouldered robin-chats, red-rumped tinkerbird, yellow-throated and western nicators, Bate’s nightjar – the “specials” bird list of the Semliki Valley is enough to have aviphiles itching to reach for their binoculars.
A shoebill photographed in Semliki Valley
Down to earth
If visitors can tear their gaze away from the feathered extravaganza, mammal life in Semliki is fascinating. Forest rarities like the fire-footed rope, red-legged sun and Beecroft’s flying squirrels share their arboreal space with grey-cheeked mangabeys, mantled guerezas, red colobuses, red-tailed monkeys and De Brazza’s monkeys. The elusive water chevrotain (also known as the fanged deer) lurks in the undergrowth along with a host of duiker species, including the bay duiker.
Red-tailed monkeys are one of the many primates that roam the forests of Semliki
Encounters with the larger residents like buffalo and elephant (including both forest and savannah varieties) are intermittent, and lions are more commonly heard than seen. However, large herds of Ugandan kob are ubiquitous, especially in Semliki Wildlife Reserve. Both protected areas are home to populations of chimpanzees, and while they are less habituated than those of nearby Kibale Forest, chimpanzee walks are among the activities on offer. The reserve’s chimpanzees are of particular interest to the scientists of Indiana University’s Semliki Chimpanzee Project, as they survive in an unusually arid habitat.
Mantled guerezas perch in the forest canopy
Bubbling with excitement
The Sempaya hot springs are situated not far inside Semuliki National Park and are accessed via a short boardwalk that runs through the forests. As the park’s most famous attraction, the two springs are a testament to the region’s rich geological history and hold a deep cultural significance to the local Bamaga people.
Bitende: the “male spring” at Sempaya Hot Springs
The “male spring” – called Bitende – is a calm pool some 12 metres in diameter, while the “female spring” – called Nyasimbi – spews boiling water and steam into the air (perhaps the less said about that difference, the better). The Bamaga people believe their female ancestors live beneath Nyasimbi and their male ancestors beneath Bitende. Annual rituals are carried out at the springs to appease these spirits.
The warm waters are also used for cooking, a tradition in which visitors can participate. Alongside the springs, mineral-encrusted swamps attract forest-dwelling mammals searching for au natural dietary supplements.
Nyasimbi: the “female” hot spring
Explore Semliki & stay
Want to go on a safari to Semliki Valley? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
With its relatively low densities of large mammal species, Semliki Valley is not the best choice for first-time safari-goers. However, for birders and those with a genuine capacity to appreciate Africa’s more unusual offerings, there are few destinations as delightfully unspoilt and jaw-droppingly scenic. Moreover, a few days spent in Semliki can easily be combined with gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest or Mgahinga National Parks, chimpanzee trekking in Kibale National Park and a Big 5 safari in Queen Elizabeth or Murchison Falls National Parks.
Much of the exploration of the Semliki Valley is done on foot, with both the national park and reserve offering guided trails of varying lengths and difficulty levels. As such, a sturdy pair of comfortable walking boots is essential! These walks can be tailored to particular interests (a birding or primate focus, for example) or simply to take in the majesty of the surroundings. Game drives and night drives are conducted in Semliki Wildlife Reserve, along with boat cruises on the crystalline waters of Lake Albert.
Visitors can explore Lake Albert by boat
Budget bandas (basic huts) are operated by the Uganda Wildlife Authority in both Semuliki National Park and Semliki Wildlife Reserve. The latter also has one privately run luxury lodge. The region experiences rain throughout the year, but during the two peak rainy seasons from March to May and September to December, many parts of the park are flooded and become entirely inaccessible.
Whether walking the paths of the dense forests or admiring the savannah scenery, exploring the remote Semliki Valley is an experience unlike any other in Africa. It encompasses the wildest aspects of Central Africa and the convenience and beauty of East Africa, making it the perfect destination for novice and experienced travellers alike.
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Rhino conservation safari, jaw-dropping photographs + the world’s largest antelope
Today I bust a myth and recommend a life-changing safari experience.
One claim I often hear from those who feel we should cull elephants is that they (elephants) destroyed the Chobe riverine forests. This straight-line logic is misleading. Chobe’s riverine forests were decimated by historic logging of hardwoods – especially Rhodesian teak Baikiaea plurijuga – for mine timber, railway sleepers, paper and furniture. If you bought converted railway sleeper furniture, you have played a role, albeit unknowingly. Commercial logging began prior to World War I and continued to 1994. The riverine areas were most hammered because the river was used to transport the wood. The larger lumber mills along the river closed down in the mid-1950’s because most of the large riverine trees had been removed, but smaller-scale harvesting continued. What remains after that devastating period of waste and mismanagement is an irreparably damaged ecosystem that is susceptible to fire and elephants, with recruitment almost impossible due to impalas and other herbivores feasting on saplings. So there you have it. As the linked report states, elephants are now PART of the problem, but they are not the cause, and culling them is unlikely to cure the damaged ecosystem.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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Have you always wanted to experience the culturally diverse tribes of Ethiopia or perhaps explore the world-famous open savannahs of Hwange? No matter your safari requirements, our passionate travel experts are on hand to offer the best advice.
Culturally diverse tribes of Ethiopia – 10 days – from US$ 2,740pps
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This ten-day cultural experience offers the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs and practices of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Entries for the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 are now closed, and we are racing towards the nail-biting moment when our judges select their favourite images. As is always the case towards the end of our annual competition, entries have been flooding in, and this week we are treating you to two galleries of magnificent images! I highly recommend taking some time to let the beauty of these pictures sink in – I promise they will brighten your day.
And speaking of brightening the day, our final story of the week details one of my encounters with Mary, the eland of Talek Gate in the Maasai Mara. She became something of a fixture during my time in Kenya and taught me a thing or two about the curious nature of eland. You can read more about Mary (and the world’s largest antelope in general) below.
Finally, I haven’t forgotten to offer up a fact this week. But in light of Simon’s message about our rhino conservation safari, this one feels appropriate. Did you know that the bids for the world’s largest rhino farm auction closed on Monday? There were no viable bids. Apparently, there are still private talks in progress, the results of which are due to be announced at the end of today. The lives of some 2,000 white rhinos – around 8% of the remaining population – hang precariously in the balance. As does the future of private rhino ownership.
Story 3 https://africageographic.com/stories/eland/
ELAND
The eland is the largest antelope on Earth. Somewhat tricky to spot, ticking one off your African safari list is rewarding
Our Mara safari
AG safari client Lex Van Vught recently returned from his stay at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in the Mara North Conservancy of the Maasai Mara. Here is what he had to say about his experience:
“Our second stay at the Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp was as excellent as our first, this time not in peak season. We actually now prefer February, as major sightings attracted a maximum of 10 game-viewing vehicles instead of the 50+ we experienced in July/August. The only negative is that there are no wildebeest crossings, but having seen these in the past, we just loved the tranquillity and solitude. Cat sightings were still spectacular and photographic opportunities abounded. We also recorded 161 bird species. As before, the service levels, food and friendliness at the camp made our stay a joy. All arrangements by Africa Geographic were perfect.”
WATCH: Rhino conservation in action – to whet your appetite for the limited-availability safari opportunity Simon describes above (03:28). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.
Sitting in my safari vehicle, on the back end of very little sleep and with the prospect of a rather long night ahead, I waited patiently at the Talek Gate entrance to the Maasai Mara National Park for the grinding wheels of bureaucracy to spit out my ticket. Shamefully, I had my head buried in my phone and was paying very little attention to my surroundings. That changed the instant something breathed soft, warm air into my right ear. My head whipped around, and I found myself face to face with a deep brown, gentle eye fringed with soft eyelashes. It was Mary, the tame Talek eland, and she had come looking for a snack.
Eland: the world’s largest antelope
Though often admired from afar, few people have the opportunity to observe an eland in close proximity. It is one thing to know that they are the largest antelope in the world, but quite another to have the evidence presented at eye level. Sitting in my raised Land Rover (on a cushion that I might see over the front), the eland cow’s shoulder stood above mine and, had the impulse struck, I could easily have leant forward and kissed her on the nose.
Eland antelope are massive animals, standing just under two metres tall and with some more imposing specimens weighing over a ton. The name “eland” comes from the Dutch word for “moose” (or “elk”), and the comparison is a fair one. Though moose stand slightly taller at the shoulder, eland are bulkier, and the two species are closely matched in mass. Eland belong to the spiral-horned antelope tribe, Tragelophini, along with kudu, nyala and bushbuck but are the only members of the Taurotragus genus. Genetically, they are closely related to the greater kudu and, on one occasion, were observed to interbreed, producing a sterile, hybrid offspring. (Interestingly, eland were reported to interbreed with domestic cattle relatively frequently in Zimbabwe during the late 1800s and early 1900s – consistently producing sterile calves.)
Like the other members of their tribe, eland are handsome antelope with pronounced sexual dimorphism. Their colour varies depending on geographic region, but the cows are usually shaded between ochre and tan, occasionally with faint white stripes running down the flanks. The bulls are darker in colour, almost a deep blue at the height of their dominance. Mature males sport pendulous dewlaps, which may play a role in thermoregulation (and possibly social signalling; see below). While both sexes carry a set of twisting horns, those of the cows are usually longer, and the bulls are substantially more robust.
Despite their considerable bulk and impressive helical horns, eland are generally retiring animals and usually move away at the sight of approaching humans. They are also the slowest antelope, relying on their bulk to intimidate potential predators and protect the more vulnerable calves and adolescents. Yet, for all their unwieldy weight, an adult can still leap over two metres into the air from a standing start (a fact that briefly crossed my mind when Mary gave me the side-eye for refusing her food).
Eland rely on their intimidating size to ward predators off from their young
A giant of giants
There are two recognised species: the common eland (Taurotragus oryx) and the giant eland (Taurotragus derbianus – also known as Lord Derby’s eland). As one might have guessed, the giant eland is slightly larger than the common eland on average. However, the difference is minor, and the name refers more to the size of the giant eland’s horns. The two animals fall into roughly the same weight class, making the distinction between the largest and second-largest antelope more a matter of pedantry.
Common eland occur on open plains throughout much of southern Africa to Ethiopia and the arid zones of South Sudan. Giant eland are divided into eastern and western populations, the former in Cameroon, the Central African Republic and South Sudan and the latter between Mali and Senegal. Visually, the two species are tricky to distinguish, but the giant eland has slightly longer legs and more vivid markings.
The eland is the largest genus of antelope in the world
Quick eland facts
Common eland
(Taurotragus oryx)
Giant eland
(Taurotragus derbianus)
Height (shoulder)
Males: 160cm
Males: 180cm
Females: 140cm
Females: 130cm
Mass
Males: 500-900kg
Males: 400-1,200kg
Females: 340-445kg
Females: 300-600kg
Social structure
Gatherings of up to 100 (consisting of smaller herds)
Small herds of around 20 individuals
Gestation
Nine months
Nine months
IUCN conservation status
Least Concern
Vulnerable
Eland are nomadic (they do not defend territories) and crepuscular, resting in the shade during the day’s heat. They are predominantly browsers but may take advantage of the nutritious grass growth at the start of the rainy season. Eland are social animals, with males, females and immature animals each forming their own separate herds with a linear hierarchy. Older bulls are sometimes solitary.
Older eland bulls are often solitary
Clickity clack – don’t talk back
The surprisingly loud sound heard when eland walk has long confounded biologists and the authors of reference books. Some suggested that the click came from the two halves of the hooves splaying open and snapping together when the foot lifted, while others concluded the sound was more likely joint-related. Today, the commonly accepted explanation is that the clicks are produced as tendons slide over the bones of the front carpal joint. Furthermore, though the joints click while the animals walk, male eland also elicit the sound while standing by lifting and lowering their front legs. So, what is the purpose of this peculiar anatomical anomaly?
The answer appears to be that the clicks are part of a complex system of social signalling between males, designed to intimidate rivals while avoiding physical conflict unless necessary. Bro-Jørgensen and Beeston (2015) examined several features, and behavioural traits of 280 male eland observed over eight years. They found that the frequency of loud “knee”-clicks indicated body size and social status. In other words, the deeper and louder the click, the larger and more intimidating the male.
In addition, they identified several other “status badges” – “long-lasting, but reversible, signals of dominance”. In eland, these include a dense growth of dark fur on the face, which forms a face mask that varies depending on the individual’s social status. The dark masks and thick facial fur characterise dominant bulls but regress if that animal loses status or hierarchy. The dewlap size may also serve a similar function, but this has not yet been confirmed.
Captive male eland have been observed to enter into phases of intermittent heightened aggression similar to musth cycles in elephants. This is termed “ukali” in eland and is probably linked to raised testosterone levels, which may physically manifest in darker fur colour and increased hair growth. Similarly, this could relate to the intensity of the clicks because androgen hormones increase muscle mass and strength, and thus the acoustic frequency of the sound produced. Combined, these characteristics serve as signals to rival males.
Eland form separate herds, each having its own linear hierarchy
Eland and people (beyond Mary)
The eland features heavily in the folklore of many African tribes, especially the San people of southern Africa, who frequently included paintings of the animals in their rock art. There are several myths involving the eland, which often represent good fortune, freedom, courage and self-sacrifice. They are also closely associated with the sun, probably due to their light colouring, and were sometimes kept in homesteads for milk and meat. If the milk of a cow was ever used to treat a malnourished human baby successfully, the cow was transported with a guard of honour back into the wild and released as a show of gratitude.
Eland are docile animals that tame easily. The females produce milk with a higher fat and protein content than cows. These factors, combined with their innate resistance to many indigenous diseases and parasites, made them attractive production animals for homestead or small-scale farming operations, some of which still exist in South Africa and Russia.
Common eland are currently not endangered, and the most recent population assessment conducted by the IUCN in 2016 estimated that between 90,000-110,000, mature individuals remain across their range. Giant eland are listed as “Vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List, and their numbers are believed to be declining. Habitat loss, snaring and poaching for bushmeat represent the most significant threats to remaining populations. At last estimate, there were thought to be 8,400 to 9,800 individuals remaining.
The eland features heavily in the folklore of many African tribes
Where to find eland
Though widely distributed throughout much of southern and East Africa, the antelope usually occur at low densities and can be surprisingly tricky to find. A visit to Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, Etosha National Park in Namibia or Nyika Plateau in Malawi will offer the best odds of encountering them in the wild. They are also abundant in the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem.
Africa is a land of giants. With behemoths like elephants, giraffes and rhinos, the shy eland is often dwarfed by their more iconic presence. But as my close encounter with Mary reminded me (albeit in an unusual situation), they are magnificent animals in their own right.
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Breath-taking images + the majesty of De Hoop Nature Reserve
A quick (true) story. A few years ago, a young couple requested our help to design the perfect gorilla trekking safari in Uganda. We did just that. They took our itinerary and ignored us from then on – conducting research with the assistance of online technology to reduce the package cost by a few hundred Dollars by choosing different accommodation – about 40 km away from our suggested lodge. On the day of their gorilla trek, their transfer to the gorilla trekking centre in Buhoma (Bwindi) took 4 hours. That road is a nightmare after rain and it often rains in that part of the world. They missed their trek – the permits cost $750 each.
The mix of passion, experience and empathy that goes into building the perfect safari is what STILL separates human safari consultants from algorithms. If you think that technology reduces CONSUMER costs, think again. Can you think of ANY service industry taken over by software where you have benefited via reduced costs? Perhaps it’s the feeling of being in control. We are interfacing with billion-dollar software that gobbles up other people’s data which it uses to direct us to an affiliated business. How much control do we really have? Technology is good for many things – as we all know. BUT whether you should outsource your remote-Africa safari decisions to algorithms is up for debate. I am keen to hear your thoughts.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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Ready to book your next bucket-list safari in Kenya or Uganda? Chat with our safari experts, and let’s get you out into Africa…adventure awaits!
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6day/5nights – From US$ 3,380 pps
You will start this Uganda safari by exploring the stunning biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens before seeking out the world-famous tree-climbing lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park. From there, explore Bwindi National Park – trekking mountain gorillas and discovering the Batwa culture.
Maasai Mara migration season safari – 7days – from US$ 4,585 pps
Now’s your chance to witness the spectacle of the Great Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara as vast herds of wildebeest and zebra plunge through rivers, dodge predators and gallop across the plains. We recommend securing your spot on this seven-day safari between July and October, when the migration is in full swing.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that elephant calves are born with tusks? They are deciduous teeth (“milk teeth”) that grow to around 5cm and then fall out when the elephant is about a year old, to be replaced by a permanent set. This adorable fact often goes unnoticed because they are small and difficult to see for the first few months. But if you look closely at a particularly touching image from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you may just glimpse some tiny tusks peeping out beneath the trunk of a genuinely delightful baby forest elephant.
Precious offspring feature heavily this week, contrasting beautifully with spectacular displays of Africa at its most raw. From curious cephalopods and near misses to gentle light and scenes of agrestic simplicity, the photographers have once again excelled themselves. Entries close on the 30th of this month, so this is your last chance to submit your finest images!
Our second story of the week will take you on a journey to the magnificent De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa. This haven of soft white dunes, azure waters, unique vegetation and endangered wildlife is one of the country’s conservation success stories. Read all about it below and then add it to your list of must-visit destinations.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Not too far from Cape Town in the Overberg region of South Africa, near the southernmost tip of Africa, lies a protected haven of sand dunes, long white beaches, beautiful mountains and 70km of spectacular, pristine coastline. Here, a marine reserve stretches 5km into the ocean, where dolphins surface and whales breach and play. De Hoop Nature Reserve is a world apart from the bright city lights.
Inland, away from the coast, this stunning 34,000-hectare reserve is a UNESCO Ramsar World Heritage Site, rich in biodiversity, home to an array of unique and rare wildlife. Although it is not known as one of Africa’s best safari destinations, De Hoop is a favourite destination for hikers, cyclists, bird watchers, and whale watchers.
Once upon a time
Thousands of years ago, Stone Age people hunted wildlife in what is now De Hoop Nature Reserve, followed by Late Stone Age hunter-gatherers who lived off the land and coastal resources. Before the arrival of Europeans, the nomadic Khoisan or Khoekhoen roamed the inland plains. (Today, carefully preserved artefacts from this era are displayed at the tourist information centre at the main entrance.) On guided walks, one can even visit the middens, where the indigenous inhabitants of the southern coast, known as Strandlopers, combed the beaches and consumed shellfish for hundreds of years. The Overberg region was colonised in the early eighteenth century, and over the next 100 years, it became known for sheep farming, horse and cattle breeding, and grain farming.,
The Cape Provincial Administration bought the De Hoop farm in 1956, and De Hoop Nature Reserve was proclaimed in 1957. The further acquisition of land enlarged this. Initially, the reserve served as a wildlife farm, where rare and endangered species, such as bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, were bred for restocking. Since the early 1970s, though, the objective of De Hoop has been the conservation of this unique coastal region, and in 1986 a Marine Protected Area was proclaimed off its coast, contributing to the conservation of the region’s coastal marine resources.
De Hoop hosts a diverse number of species, including beach-trodding eland
Wildlife and conservation success in De Hoop
De Hoop’s varied habitat supports a diversity of wildlife. The reserve hosts 86 mammal species, including the rare bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, eland, grey rhebok, baboons, yellow mongoose and caracals, rivaling some of Africa’s best safari destinations. Lucky visitors may even spot the occasional Cape leopard. And there are many ways for visitors to De Hoop to get out and enjoy this local wildlife – whether through traditional game drives in a vehicle, guided mountain bike rides or hikes. Cycling past the plentiful herds of eland and bontebok and walking among the zebras is an experience not to be missed.
This experience is all the more precious as De Hoop (along with a neighbouring conservancy) is now home to a slowly growing population of endangered Cape mountain zebra. This achievement is no small feat considering their near extinction at the beginning of the 20th century, after hunting and habitat loss reduced the population to less than 60 individuals. But conservation efforts by local reserves, national parks and landowners helped bolster numbers, and their story is now one of South Africa’s most successful conservation stories. The population established at De Hoop in the 1960s contributed to their survival, and today their numbers in South Africa have grown from under 100 in the 1950s to 1,200 animals by 2000.
A healthy population of Cape mountain zebras call De Hoop home
The bontebok in the reserve share a similar history. The bontebok, a sub-species of blesbok, was once so endangered due to excess hunting, agricultural encroachment and competition with domestic stock for forage and water that only 17 individuals remained by the 1800s. Drastic intervention to save them from extinction in 1931 led to the establishment of the nearby Bontebok National Park (near Swellendam). By 1969, the bontebok population number 800 strong, and today the population hovers between 2,500 and 3,000. While not abundant, the bontebok’s future is considered secure (although the bontebok is still listed as vulnerable on the IUCN’s Red List). A current headcount of 308 of these antelope roams De Hoop – more than just a glimmer of hope for a species that was once nearly wiped out.
Bontebok – a subspecies of blesbok – are now thriving in De Hoop
The abundant plant kingdom of De Hoop
De Hoop forms part of the Cape Floral Kingdom – the world’s smallest and most threatened plant kingdom. Fynbos, confined mainly to nutrient-poor soils in the winter rainfall areas of the Western Cape, dominates this kingdom. De Hoop is important for conserving lowland fynbos, as this is the largest area conserving this rare vegetation type. Of all the approximately 1,500 fynbos species found here, 108 are rare or threatened, 34 are endemic and found nowhere else in the world, and incredibly, 14 species are so newly discovered that they have yet to be scientifically examined and described.
Taking a hike on one of the inland trails, visitors find themselves knee-high in fynbos, bathed in fragrance, and surrounded by shades of yellow, coral, pink, purple and green – including heath-like ericas, wiry reed-like restios, and geophytes that store moisture in their fleshy underground bulbs.
Lush rolling hills of fynbos dominate the reserve
Winged wonders of De Hoop
The De Hoop wetlands are internationally recognised as Birdlife International Important Bird and Biodiversity Area, and over 260 species of resident and migratory birds are found here, including flamingos, African black oystercatchers, great white pelicans, migrant wading birds, African fish eagles, endemic southern boubous and colourful malachite sunbirds.
The reserve is also home to a newly established colony of endangered African penguins – another conservation success story. After BirdLife South Africa partnered with CapeNature and SANCCOB to create a new breeding colony for African penguins by constructing a predator-proof fence in 2018 and introducing 148 juvenile penguins to the colony site, more penguins started spontaneously arriving at the site in mid-2022. In late 2022, the first pair of chicks was recorded at the colony – a promising prospect for the future success of the colony.
View the breeding colony of Cape vultures from a raised platform
Not too far from the colony, on the cliffs of Potberg Mountain, avid birders can view the Western Cape’s last remaining breeding colony of Cape vultures. A short but steep hike up De Hoop’s Klipspringer Trail leads to a lookout platform over the colony, home to around 150 Cape vultures. The hike is worth the climb, and the views are spectacular, with vultures soaring overhead, diving and circling in the sky.
A nest-building Cape vulture
De Hoop’s marine reserve
The De Hoop Marine Protected Area extends 5km out to sea from the coastline of the nature reserve. This is one of Africa’s largest marine protected areas, providing a sanctuary for a fascinating array of marine life. Adventurers can explore the coastal rock pools, fossilised dunes, sandy beaches and rocky shores, where marine life of all shapes and sizes can be seen – from bright orange starfish to purple sea urchins, limpets, barnacles, octopus, and some of the many sea birds that call these shores home. Snorkelling in the large, clear rock pools is one of the best ways to experience this magical marine world.
Calm rock pools offer ideal conditions for snorkelling
The protected waters are a haven for endangered southern right whales, and 40% of the world’s population of these gentle giants return from feeding in the far Southern Ocean close to Antarctica in the summer months to the waters off De Hoop annually, to mate, give birth and rear their calves. The marine protected area is an important destination for these magnificent mammals, as it guarantees a safe nursery, and during the season, around 120 whales call De Hoop home.
Southern right whales travel to De Hoop to birth their calves here
At the peak periods of the season (June and December), as many as fifty can be spotted in a day, making the reserve one of the best spots for land-based whale watching in the world. The whales come so close to shore that visitors can simply sit on the dunes and watch them as they breach, blow and belly-flop. Aside from whales, visitors are likely to spot diving dolphins and frolicking seals, and the waters here are home to at least 250 species of fish.
Spot dolphins surfing the breakers
Explore and stay
Want to explore magnificent De Hoop? To find lodges in or near De Hoop, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
For the keen hiker, De Hoop has one of the best hiking trails in South Africa: the five-day, 55km Whale Trail, which features well-equipped accommodation along the route. The ‘slack-packing’ route offers coastal and mountain walking, with spectacular views and plenty of opportunities for whale watching. Do note that hiking the Whale Trail requires booking well in advance.
Visiting De Hoop between August and November, during whale watching time, is particularly rewarding, but the reserve has something to offer explorers throughout the year.
Various accommodation options are available, from luxury lodges with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean to self-catering cottages and campsites.
Several lodges offer luxury experiences within the reserve
Final thoughts
As the sun goes down on another crisp Cape coast day, and the sky lights up crimson, orange and yellow, there’s nothing better than to sit, gin and tonic in hand, and look out over the endless ocean. Silhouetted against the sky, a southern right whale and her calf make for a sensational sunset spectacle.
De Hoop offers the complete outdoor experience: sea, unspoiled beaches, dunes, wetlands, rare plants, diverse animals, incredible bird life and hiking trails. From adventure, peace and tranquillity to luxury and wilderness, De Hoop has it all.
I recently played a minor role in an interesting Facebook exchange that is worth highlighting. It started with the operations manager of a large community-owned Big 5 game reserve posting a photo of a black rhino in the reserve and celebrating her safe existence thanks to ‘24/7 by state-of-the-art surveillance and hyper-alert security’.
Predictably, one person, a freelance safari guide, soon chirped “You really think it’s clever to advertise rhinos while nearby they’re slaughtered daily?”
To which the reserve manager replied:
“Sigh. Do we really, really have to go over this again? As before: Poachers aren’t trawling my social media looking for rhinos. Poachers already know that we have rhinos. It’s no secret. We are a legitimate Big 5 game reserve. We advertise this. Our commercial survival, and the conservation of rhinos, depends on us advertising and marketing our status to paying guests who want to see rhinos in the wild. These guests who want to see rhinos are the ones paying for their conservation, who are supporting their very existence. We cannot keep this a secret. We have hundreds of employees and thousands of close neighbours among our local communities. All know that we have rhinos. Knowing this, we invest heavily in anti-poaching, surveillance, security, information etc. I hope that this informs your thinking as I’ve addressed this before with you.”
Hypocritically, the same freelance guide recently posted a video on Facebook of rhinos they saw in a local national park – with location disclosed. ‘Sigh’ indeed
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
From the urban traveller’s paradise of Cape Town to two spectacular wilderness areas in Botswana, let us romance you with the ultimate southern African adventures…
Cape Town & Khwai – 9days/8nights – from ZAR 58,340pps
Begin this best-of-both-worlds holiday by immersing yourself in the exquisite natural beauty, magnificent beaches, edgy urban delights and colourful history of Cape Town. Then on to a safari in the heart of Botswana’s Khwai wilderness, where you’ll encounter some of the continent’s most iconic wildlife. Explore this magnificent landscape on game drives, guided walks, and boat safaris before returning to the unparalleled comfort of your luxury accommodation—a trip guaranteed to create lifelong memories.
Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$ 945pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans of Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans in Botswana goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
When we were children, summer holidays stretched on forever, and a year felt like a lifetime. But the older we get, the faster time seems to move. There are some fascinating explanations for why this happens, but the point that I am trying to make is that we are already racing towards the end of April 2023. This, in turn, means that our Photographer of the Year competition is rapidly approaching its eagerly anticipated conclusion. Just two weeks left before we start selecting our top images!
So, for now, take the opportunity to soak in the wonder of this week’s gallery with childlike appreciation. Our most recent exhibition includes zebra violence, feline beauties, unusual encounters and some watchful eyes. Our entrants never fail to amaze us.
And then, did you know that humans have only inhabited Madagascar for around 1,500 years? Coincidentally (?), Madagascar experienced an extinction wave some 1,000 years ago that saw the loss of giant lemurs the size of gorillas and elephant birds larger than ostriches. They were artworks of evolution – gone forever. Tragically, much of Madagascar’s biodiversity has either been lost or is teetering on the brink. To drive home this message, scientists have found novel ways to quantify what it would take to recover. You can read more in our second story below.
In our forum this week: Moses Selebatso from Kalahari Research & Conservation (KRC) invites you to take part in an art auction. 100% of the proceeds from this sale will be donated to the KRC’s vital work protecting the remarkable, vast landscapes and wildlife of the Kgalagadi. If you would like to support their efforts, now’s your chance to get bidding!
WATCH: Wish you were here? A simply sublime escape to why we do this. Turn up the volume (00:39). Click here to watch
Nature may be resilient in many ways, but sometimes the damage done is so severe that only time – and an abundance thereof – could ever affect a genuine repair. A new study published in Nature Communications suggests that it would take millions of years to reverse the damage done to Madagascar and its unique and precious biodiversity.
Madagascar has been evolutionarily isolated for 88 million years, its geography and climate shaping a host of fascinating plants and animals away from outside influences. As a result, 90% of the island’s fauna and flora is endemic, with phenomenal biodiversity that is worlds apart from anything else on the planet. The island is so large and its environment so diverse that some have even argued for its consideration as the world’s eighth continent. It is home to over 300 recorded species of birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile, including two-thirds of Earth’s chameleon species. There are over a hundred lemur species, with new species being discovered every few years. From mountain rainforests to deserts, the creatures of Madagascar have specialised in inhabiting a wide variety of habitat types.
But Madagascar’s natural marvels are vanishing at an alarming rate – over 90% of the rainforest has been lost to human encroachment, and more than half the mammals on the island are considered endangered. Many of the island’s distinctive creatures are found only in small populations adapted for limited, specific habitats, making them particularly vulnerable to extinction.
To understand the extent of human impact on the island, a team of Malagasy, European and American scientists set out to measure how long it would take before the island’s biodiversity could be restored. This is a complicated question because no two islands or habitats are the same, species diversity develops at different rates, and some take longer to “recover” than others. There are also different approaches to what counts as lost or recovered diversity, including taxonomic and phylogenetic diversity. For this study, the researchers opted to focus on the recovery of taxonomic diversity – measured by total number of species – in Madagascar, taking into account regional rates of colonisation, speciation and extinction. Simply put, they examined how long it would take for the same number of species to evolve to replace those lost to extinction, offering an unusual temporal perspective on existing and potential damage.
Over 90% of Madagascar’s rainforest has been lost to human encroachment
This approach required that the scientists ascertain the relationships between existing species and the number and causes of recent extinctions. As not all this information was immediately available for all the Malagasy species, they built comprehensive datasets for each mammal species known to have inhabited Madagascar. This included the 219 mammals alive today and another 30 that have gone extinct in the past two millennia. Their research also required the construction of a genetic family tree to establish relationships and thus estimate how long each species took to evolve.
The authors concluded that it would take three million years to “replace” the species already lost to extinction. However, this period assumes that no further losses be allowed to take place. If Madagascar were to lose all of its endangered mammal life, it would take a staggering 23 million years to return to previous levels of evolutionary complexity and diversity. Furthermore, evolution will not simply recreate the lost species – what is lost is lost forever.
This time calculation took the researchers by surprise, as it is much longer than previous studies have found on other islands such as New Zealand or the Caribbean. This, in turn, emphasises the urgency of protecting Madagascar’s natural marvels to save the species that represent millions of years of evolution. The study’s results “suggest that an extinction wave with deep evolutionary impact is imminent on Madagascar unless immediate conservation actions are taken.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
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Glamorous geladas + fantastic photos
So I challenged ChatGPT – the language processing tool driven by artificial intelligence technology – to come up with a convincing pitch on why your next safari should be with Africa Geographic. This is what it suggested:
“As a fellow lover of adventure and nature, I am reaching out to tell you about Africa Geographic’s hand-made, experience-based safaris.
We craft unforgettable adventures that not only leave a lasting impression on our clients, but also benefit the communities and ecosystems we visit. What sets us apart from our competitors is our unwavering commitment to responsible travel and community development. We believe that our efforts not only provide you with an unforgettable experience, but also contribute to creating a better world.“
Not bad for a bunch of code! My contemplations this morning were fuelled by a dwindling supply of Question Coffee beans – a bag of which I purchased during my recent sojourn in Rwanda. Follow this link to understand how awesome this initiative is. And the coffee is delicious. Nope, not sponsored – just thought I would share the goodness 😉
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
This week we have two hand-picked safaris for you: an authentic wilderness experience deep in South Luangwa National Park and a thrilling adventure in Victoria Falls. And if you can’t choose, why not combine them and get the best of both? Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip.
Affordable South Luangwa safari – expert guide – 5 days – from US$2625 pps
This fantastic combination of walking and vehicle-based game viewing will appeal to experienced safari-goers and novices alike. Expect exceptional wildlife, tracking on foot in the birthplace of the walking safari, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners in Zambia’s premier safari destination.
Victoria Falls – 3 days – from US$ 740 pps
Three days of non-stop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or add-on to another safari. Either way, unequivocally an iconic destination to tick off your bucket list. Experience the magic of ‘the smoke that thunders’ – one of the seven wonders of the natural world.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Africa is a continent overflowing with photogenic potential, but even amidst all this beauty, there can be no denying that some animals make more dramatic subjects than others. Take the gelada, for example – a primate that, without fail, finds its way into our Photographer of the Year weekly galleries regularly every year.
There is just something about that coiffed mane and deeply-furrowed brow that begs to be photographed. And then, did you know that geladas have forgone the brightly coloured genitals and perineum so favoured by other primate species? This is because they spent the majority of their days foraging on their bottoms, which would make such unambiguous sexual signalling a bit of a waste. Hence the eye-catching scarlet chest patches that set them apart. Check out our first story below to learn more about the fascinating nuances of geladas (and see if you can get through it without singing “Simply the Best”).
Unplanned, though somewhat conveniently, this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery features a male gelada with his chest patch on full display. Also included this week: a lion cub with terrible table manners, a fierce battle between forest giants and one very sharp reflection. How better to celebrate the arrival of the weekend?
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/gelada/
GLAMOROUS GELADAS
With complex social structures & vocabularies, the cliff-dwelling gelada of Ethiopia is one of Africa’s most striking primates
WATCH: “The next 10 years are absolutely critical … solutions are found at a local level …. there are five key pillars to what we do”. An inspiring video from and about African Parks (09:15). Click here to watch
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
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