Page 28 – Africa Geographic

Tantalising Tswalu: The Kalahari’s diamond in the rough

It was like a scene out of the movie Jurassic Park. You know, that adrenaline-fuelled, chaotic scene when the bad guys arrive on the island in their vehicles and speed through the bush while dinosaurs scatter out of their way as they hunt for the ultimate dinosaur trophy. Well, this was like that, except I was on a Land Rover flying through the Kalahari bush with a guide at the wheel, with two other Landies driving parallel about 50 metres away. And rather than dinosaurs flanking our sides, there were wild dogs, and they were the ones hunting…

The stunning vistas of the Kalahari are truly awe-inspiring © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

While trying not to lose sight of the dogs – who had transformed from big-eared, playful puppies to racing greyhound hunters in a millisecond – the guide weaved us around and through the scrubland bushes, dodging porcupine burrows and camel thorns, and it was here that I briefly questioned how on Earth I was here, in the middle of the southern Kalahari, when only just that morning I was still at home in Cape Town.

Well, it all started with a question.

“How would you like to go there?” my boss said, pointing to the screen displaying the most luxurious-looking lodge, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. My first thought was that it looked stunning; my second was: seriously?

**Clockwise from left:** *Caracal relaxing* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) *Cheetah brothers on the prowl* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 3) *A gorgeous roan* © Christian Boix 4) *Elegant herd of impala* © Thea Felmore

LEAVING ON A (PRIVATE) JET PLANE

Before I knew it planning was underway to send myself and our travel director, Christian, to Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve in the southern Kalahari – a malaria-free, five-star exclusive lodge owned by the mining magnet Oppenheimer family – to experience the ultimate ‘bling safari’, accompanied with a level of service, cuisine and accommodation that would come to exceed all my expectations (and far beyond anything I could afford).

From Cape Town International Airport we were whisked away in a private jet from the Oppenheimer’s private hanger, Fireblade Aviation, flying directly to Tswalu’s airstrip in a seemingly brief two-hour flight.

The deep red sands of the Kalahari greeted us as we stepped off the plane and were directed to the ‘bush’ terminal where ice-cold wine and snacks were served while our bags were loaded into the Landies by our guide, Julian, and tracker, Ari. The ‘bush’ terminal, an open-air thatched building, had all the necessities required to freshen up before leaving for the lodge. It even included some entertainment, provided by the dozens of sociable weavers who reside inside a massive nest built under the thatch roof – they were constantly darting in and out from the numerous chambers, providing some great photographic opportunities.

A private jet outside a hangar — *Thea and Christian’s private jet ready to whisk them off to Tswalu – talk about travelling in style! © Fireblade Aviation*

A WARM WELCOME

We arrived at Tswalu’s The Motse lodge to warm hand towels and more refreshing drinks. From the moment I got off the Landy, I felt incredibly welcomed by all the staff I met – each one taking time out from their duties to come and introduce themselves. Everyone seemed to know my name – it was as if I was returning home to a large, extended family, rather than a first-time visit to a private, upmarket lodge. It was refreshing to be in such a friendly, welcoming atmosphere, and I was excited at the thought of what the next three days could hold in store for us.

Christian and I were staying in one of the three family legae (“dwelling” in Tswana) – there are nine legae altogether – where we each had our own room with en suite bathroom and outdoor shower. Massive king-sized beds faced large glass doors that provided unobstructed views of the Kalahari wilderness. As there are no fences between the legae and the wilderness, one of the first rules we were told was never to leave our patio and walk into the bush – who knows what lies in wait?

Beautiful, elegant photo of a king-size bed — A sensational photo of one of the three family legae (“dwelling” in Tswana) at the Motse © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

With that in mind, I was fervently scanning the landscape from the comfy of my excessively large wicker chair with a drink in hand – having raided the drinks cabinet as one does… – when all of a sudden, my eye caught something small, slinking over towards a hole about two metres away from the patio. I immediately got Christian’s attention from where he was sitting, and we quickly identified the stealthy animal: a Cape fox!

Suddenly she was joined by four baby foxes that zoomed out of their burrow to drink from her. Christian and I just looked at each other, our faces as expressive as an excited mime. We pulled a Matrix move stealthily and silently reaching for our cameras, to not disturb the mother and her babies as they went about playing and relaxing right under our noses. What a way to start our Kalahari adventure!

**Left:** *Cape fox – cuteness overload!* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; **Right:** *Two cape fox pups with their mother* © Christian Boix

JULIAN AND ARI

The exclusivity of Tswalu knows no bounds as guests each have their own guide and tracker, along with the freedom to decide your daily itinerary, and even when you want to eat – the chef is available 24/7. Don’t forget to fit in a spa treatment as well while you’re planning your day.

Because of this flexibility, the likelihood of spotting another game drive vehicle while out in the reserve is highly improbable. It also helps that Tswalu will only take 28 adults at maximum capacity.

It was fantastic to know that we had Julian and Ari all to ourselves. When asked what we were keen on seeing, we replied: “Everything!” And for how long do we want to be out? “As long as possible!”

And that’s precisely what happened. Every morning we were out by 6 am, returning briefly for lunch and a mini siesta for two to three hours, and then back out until returning for a late dinner at 9:30 pm.

Julian was an incredibly enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, as well as a keen birder, so he and Christian had a lot to talk about, and were kept quite entertained by the myriad of bird species that they spotted. Ari was a phenomenal tracker, and I was amazed by his eagle-eyed spotting skills – even more so when he spotted a stunning rock monitor under a bush!

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *Black-faced waxbill* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) *A group of beautiful meerkats* © Christian Boix; 3) Rock monitor © Thea Felmore; 4) Sociable weaver nest colony © Thea Felmore; 5) *Pygmy falcon* © Christian Boix

From spending time identifying an array of birds (many that I have never seen before) and getting up close and personal with the habituated meerkat colony, to tracking cheetahs on foot and then quietly observing the southern lion pride for over an hour – I was lost for words.

The four of us journeying around Tswalu non-stop for three full days was just marvellous, albeit exhausting by the end of day three, but we were in our element here in the bush and for that privilege, I would not change a thing!

THE WILD DOG HUNT

A pack of wild dogs and a safari vehicle — A thrilling sighting of a pack of wild dogs while on a game drive © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

So it was here, on the first afternoon drive at Tswalu, where I found myself grinning from ear to ear as we raced side by side with a hunting pack of four wild dogs. Typically only two vehicles are allowed at a sighting, but when it’s a hunt, then three are permitted.

Julian was always on the radio with the other two guides, keeping each other up to date on the fast-paced movements of the dogs, while Ari directed Julian from the tracker’s seat.

Suddenly we lost sight of the dogs, and while frantically searching for them among the thick vegetation of acacia trees and grasses Ari suddenly shouted: “They have something!… They’ve got a warthog!”

Pulling up beside the dogs we watched as they went after a large warthog, which didn’t seem to be putting up much of a fight – Julian suspected that it was not in good health due to the current dry conditions. The next thing the one dog grabbed the warthog’s tail and dragged it backwards. I looked away, suddenly recalling wild dog hunting techniques: they start eating their prey while it’s still alive.

I paled at the thought, at what was happening right before our eyes. It was the first time I was witnessing a hunt and a kill, and unable to watch such an event I turned away, trying to block out the squealing warthog. It seemed brutal, almost heartless in the way the dogs killed the warthog, and even though it was hard to stomach, I reminded myself that this was raw nature, this was the wild, this was real.

“I knew that warthog,” Ari said with a sad smile once everything had calmed down and the squeals were silenced, “it had half an ear missing, so it was easy to recognise”. C’est la vie.

**Left:** Alpha female wild dog with two male wild dogs; **Right:** *Wild dog puppy pile.* Both photos © Thea Felmore.

THE BLACK-MANED BROTHERS OF LEKGABA

With such an overwhelmingly eye-opening start to our stay, we didn’t think anything else could top that – but we were wrong.

Early the next morning, we made our way over to the Lekgaba section of Tswalu. This area is separate from the main part where The Motse is located because a service road (from the time when the area was farmland) still runs through, dividing the two properties.

The one thing that Lekgaba has, that the other does not, is Kalahari black-maned lions.

In Lekgaba the landscape seemed different, with rolling hills and mountains, the bush was thicker and the grass longer thanks to the smaller amount of grazers found on this side. It was quite a treat to experience two very different landscapes on the same reserve.

It didn’t take long for Ari to pick up two sets of tracks belonging to black-maned lion brothers, who are approximately eight to ten-years-old. “Just past their prime,” according to Julian. It was thrilling to think that there was a possibility of seeing my first wild lions – black-maned at that! I was starting to get goosebumps.

Two black-maned lions walking in the Lekgaba section of Tswalu — The famous Kalahari black-maned lion brothers located in the Lekgaba section of Tswalu. This is the only section where these lions can be found © Thea Felmore

Another vehicle joined us in tracking the lions and together Julian and the other guide helped each other out with updates over the radio. At the same time, we slowly headed towards their last known sighting near to the border fence.

Then all too quickly, we found them! And it took my breath away. Tears formed in my eyes as I was taken aback with what I saw: two magnificent, incredibly large male lions strolling through the long grass in the morning sun, casually aware of us but at the same time not interested in our presence at all. I almost forgot to pick up my camera as I was mesmerised by their beauty and raw power.

Julian made sure to keep with the lions’ pace, but at one point the one brother came awfully close to us, glancing up at the vehicle and straight into my eyes.

“Are we not too close to them?” I whispered to Julian, “Will we be safe being so close?” I was starting to feel nervous, but Julian assured me that these two brothers were fine with the vehicle, and besides, “they are more interested in the zebra across the road”.

“Zebra? What zebra?”

And sure enough directly across the service road, behind the fence, was a Hartmann’s mountain zebra, following the lions as they kept on walking down the road along the border fence. It was hilarious and surreal at the same time – it was as if the zebra was almost mocking the brothers as if to say: “You want me? You want a piece of this? Well, you can’t, so there!”

I came away with one of the most incredible sightings of my life. I can still clearly remember the thrill of watching those two magnificent creatures walking so close to us, looking into their eyes, and feeling powerless and vulnerable in their presence.

A lion grooming his cub — A wonderful moment of the bond between a lion and his cub © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

MEETING SIR CHARLES

Of all the animals that Tswalu featured on their list of wildlife species, the pangolin was one that I was most hopeful to see, though I knew the chances were slim.
However, I discovered that an academic researcher from Wits University, Wendy Panaino, who’s studying them as part of her doctorate, would be out in the field on our second night.

An up close photo of a pangolin — Pangolins are burrowing animals. They are insect eaters, with ants and termites being their food of choice. © Christian Boix

Waiting with baited breath, our prayers were answered late in the evening when we got the call that she was out and with one of the pangolins, ‘number four’, or fondly referred to as ‘Sir Charles’ by the guides.

Having published so many articles about the tragic fate that pangolins are currently going through with poaching and illegal trafficking, it was an ethereal moment when I met Sir Charles. He was going about his night digging and excavating ant nests while I stood a mere metre away spellbound. It was incredible to watch him in action, eating only particular ants and termites that make up his main diet.

Pangolin rolled up into a ball — Pangolins roll up into a ball when they feel threatened © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Wendy told me more about her research while we observed Sir Charles rummaging through the bushes. Her doctorate is based around researching the consequences of climate change in the arid Kalahari and how it affects the availability of ants and termites, their social behaviour, the timing of the breeding season, and home range shifts. There are several pangolins that she studies in Tswalu, each fitted with a body temperature monitor and tracker.

We spent almost three hours following Sir Charles around in the dark, watching as Wendy took notes of his movements and collected samples of the ants he was choosing to eat.

Later that night I reflected on my encounter with Sir Charles, and realised that I couldn’t find the right words to describe the sort of emotions I was going through while being so close to such an endangered species – I found myself speechless, honoured and humbled to have met such an incredible creature that night.

Read more about Sir Charles and the rest of the pangolins and the research being done in the Kalahari.

OVERINDULGING WITH NO REGRETS

Tswalu is all-inclusive, and that includes drinks (soft and alcoholic), as well as much as you want to indulge in. Sumptuous dinners take place in one of three locations, depending on the day, and the menu is catered towards your particular eating preferences. The meals are exquisite and decadent – flambéed Magnum ice-cream a la baked Alaska anyone?

Breakfast and lunch can be taken at any time during daylight hours, and I thoroughly enjoyed eggs benedict with salmon for one of my lunches.

Every afternoon the chef lays out a delicious high-tea spread, where sweet and savoury bite-sized snacks were on offer.

Of course, there is also the wine cellar and drinks bar in the lodge bar where you can help yourself to whatever takes your fancy.

Did I mention that there is a pre-game drive breakfast spread in the main lounge for early rises? Everything from croissants, muffins, yoghurt, fruit, cheeses, bread and a range of coffees and teas are available.

And then, of course, there are the midday snacks of nuts, fruit, date balls and rolled omelettes served with filter coffee while out on a drive.
Tswalu is a culinary destination where you bring your appetite and leave your diet at the door.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *A mouth-watering afternoon tea selection of food as well as tea and coffee*; 2) *A vibrant-coloured carrot cake, complemented by an eclectic presentation*; 3) *Indulging in tasty game drive snacks.* 4) *Asian prawn curry – are you hungry yet?* All photos © Thea Felmore

AARDVARK, AARDWOLF… AND AARDAPPEL?

Christian and I were keen on seeing some creatures of the twilight, including the elusive aardvark and aardwolf. However, the most we got out of our evening/night drives were a lot of jackals, spring hares (humorously referred to as ‘Kalahari kangaroos’), and nightjars.

We started to joke that even an aardappel (potato) would suffice.

It was our last evening drive, and the sun was quickly making its way to the horizon as we ventured into an unexplored area, keeping an eye out for the “aards” and brown hyena.

A close up of an Aardvark — The reclusive aardvark © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

As Julian rounded a corner and drove into a large open area, Ari quickly shot up his hand, pointing to a spot about a hundred metres away, we followed his direction, and our eyes landed on two black rhinos!

We had unknowingly stumbled upon the elusive black rhino mother and her year-old calf.

They were some distance from us, but unfortunately, the wind was not on our side, and she immediately picked up on our presence, and they disappeared into the safety of the thick bush. It was unbelievable luck to come across such a sighting (a first for me!), and in celebration, we brought out the sundowners and observed as the blanket of diamond stars began covering the darkening sky.

Sipping on gin & tonics, we reminisced about our brief but action-packed adventure in the wildlife-rich Kalahari, on how it had been such a phenomenal, once-in-a-lifetime experience for me.

A close up of the elusive black rhino – a very special sight © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Just as we were finishing up, we suddenly heard what sounded like thunder emanating from the darkness. It was deep, constant, and coming closer. Ari spun around, hands cupping his ears as he tried to pinpoint the source. It was the rhino, and according to Ari, she and her calf were aiming for the waterhole nearby, charging through the bushes in the dark. It sounded terrifying, and immediately I was looking for the quickest route into the Landy.

Fortunately, she must have taken a wide detour to the waterhole as she never appeared, but it was still a close call, especially in the dark where the vegetation was melting into the darkness.

Adrenaline pumping and eyes wide, we all looked at each other, nervous laughter spread through the group as we realised how close we were to meeting the rhino and her calf up close.

We decided that maybe it was best we packed up and headed back to the lodge for dinner… though… on second thought, perhaps just one more gin & tonic for the dusty red road.

ABOUT THE SOUTHERN KALAHARI

Situated in the Northern Cape of South Africa, the southern Kalahari forms part of the larger Kalahari Desert that covers 9,000,000 km² of arid to semi-arid land covering most of Botswana and parts of Namibia and South Africa.

The name Kahalari is derived from the Tswana word “Kgala”, meaning “the great thirst”, or Kgalagadi, meaning “the waterless place”.

The southern Kalahari is also known as the ‘green’ Kalahari due to its location and climatic conditions – as it receives more rain than the central Kalahari.

It has been inhabited by Bushman for 20,000 years, who lived as hunter-gatherers in a harmonious relationship with the environment until the influx of Africans and Europeans.

Known for its stunning red sand dunes, vast landscapes and the incredible night sky, the southern Kalahari supports a variety of flora, such as acacias and grasses, and fauna. Animals that live in the region include brown hyenas, the Kalahari lion, leopards, cheetahs, meerkats, giraffes, warthogs, jackals, chacma baboons, and several species of antelope (including the eland, gemsbok, springbok, hartebeest, steenbok, kudu, and duiker), and many species of birds and reptiles.

**Clockwise from left:** *Three exquisite giraffes ambling through the bush* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) *Sable antelope, with his sensational* curved horns © Christian Boix; 3) *A regal leopard* © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

ABOUT TSWALU KALAHARI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Tswalu is South Africa’s largest private game reserve, situated on the edge of the southern Kalahari, surrounded by the beautiful Koranneberg mountains. Covering an area of over 1,100 km² (110,000 hectares), it is family-friendly and malaria-free.

Over 80 species of mammals can be found on the reserve, including black-maned lions, pangolin, aardvark and black rhino, together with approximately 240 species of birds.

History
The original reserve was created as a hunting property by Stephen Boler, a British businessman, who bought up 35 farms, totalling some 88,000 hectares. Stephen and Nicky Oppenheimer met only once but instantly recognised each other’s love and respect for the southern Kalahari. When Stephen tragically died, his will specified that Tswalu was to be offered first to Nicky.

The Oppenheimer family took ownership in 1998. Hunting stopped overnight, and the land was given back to itself. Breeding programmes for rare and endangered species, such as roan and sable antelope, were developed and academic researchers were invited in.

Further neighbouring farms have been gradually acquired and transformed, adding more habitats, more of the spectacular Korannaberg mountains, more diversity. Countless buildings have been demolished and removed. And everywhere, the grasses have returned.

Where to stay at Tswalu Kalahari

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Thea and Christian stayed at one of the three accommodation options at Tswalu Kalahari Reserve: two accommodation options, along with a sleep-out experience.

THE MOTSE

The Motse can accommodate up to 18 adults in nine individual thatch-roof legae. Each legae comes with an en suite bathroom, outside shower, and private patio providing sweeping views of the Kalahari landscape. Three of the legae are family units that come with two separate rooms with their own en suite bathrooms.

**From left to right:** 1) *The glorious boma. Enjoy your meal under the African sky*; 2) *Cool off and relax at the splendid pool deck* All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

TARKUNI
Tarkuni, originally the Oppenheimer’s private villa, was transformed into a homestead that can accommodate up to 10 guests, ideal for smaller groups and family gatherings.

Each room has an en suite bathroom and outdoor star bed. All of the rooms open into an open-plan lounge and dining area. Guests can enjoy a swim in the private pool, or relax in the library or games room. A personal chef, vehicle, guide and tracker are at your disposal while at Tarkuni.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *The stunning fire pit, complemented by the inviting semi-circle-shaped couch, is the perfect place to keep warm on a chilly night*; 2) *The fusion of rustic decor – yet with a sophisticated flair – is exquisite*; 3) *A luxurious suite that boasts a beautiful balcony overlooking the bushveld*; 4) *Cool off in the pool and then recline back on one of the deck chairs – a perfect way to relax*. All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

THE MALORI
The Malori gives guests the option of an incredible ‘sleep under the stars’ experience. Built on a raised platform, the Malori is fitted with all the luxuries, including a king-sized bed. A short walk leads you to the outdoor toilet, basin and shower. Guests can enjoy dinner prepared by their guide (or opt to make it themselves) while watching the sun set over the rolling red sand dunes of the Kalahari.

**Clockwise from left to right:** 1) *Your king-sized bed is covered by a thatched roof – that’s it. No windows or doors at all*; 2) *An incredible view of the expanse of the wondrous landscape*; 3) *The sleep-deck is equipped with an outdoor shower*. All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

As a former field guide and teacher, Thea Felmore has combined her passion for the English language and love of wildlife to work behind the scenes as a content editor sharing African wildlife, travel and culture with a global online audience. When not in front of the screen she makes time to get out and explore the beautiful Cape Town wilderness in search for her favourite reptile species (and other fascinating creatures, of course).

Cuteness alert: Rescued baby genets

Curled up in a blanket, sleeping next to their furry little friends, these two baby genets stole the heart of their caretaker, Erika, at ZURI Orphanage in Namibia. The two genets arrived at different times and are being raised for release back into the wild.

baby genet and friend — © Zuri Orphanage

babies and Erika, the caretaker — © Zuri Orphanage

Here is what Dr Erika de Jager shared with Africa Geographic:

“I received a phone call from one of my clients asking me if I would like to take care of a baby genet. It was love at first sight! We fed him kitty milk and he loved it. During the same time, my cat had a litter of kittens. This was a lifesaver as the kittens loved to play with the baby genet. It is pure magic to watch them play. Then, it was an even greater surprise when Onguma Lodge asked me if I could take care of another baby genet.

“We are so grateful that they entrusted him to us as he was only a day old. We fed him with an intravenous catheter the first two days with kitty milk and then he started drinking on his own – his eyes only opened after 10 days. The genets are both doing very well and are still drinking from the bottle. They are not ready to be released yet.”

ZURI Orphanage is currently raising funds to build a large cage to prepare the genets to be released. Any donations would be appreciated. Please note that genets are wild animals and do not make good pets.

baby genet and his kitten friends — © Zuri Orphanage

baby genet and friends — © Zuri Orphanage

baby genet and a friend — © Zuri Orphanage

baby genets and Erika — © Zuri Orphanage

Rhino poaching update – we look behind the numbers

The 2017 rhino poaching numbers were released yesterday by Dr Edna Molewa, South African Minister of Environmental Affairs (DEA). We look at the numbers behind the numbers.

Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod of STROOP report:

Year after year we hear the rhino poaching numbers on radio, watch them on tv or read them here at Africa Geographic. But what do those figures mean, and what’s actually behind them. Because let’s be honest, there’s so much secrecy in the fight against rhino poaching that a lot is kept from the public … in the interest of rhino security, sure, but so much is happening on the ground that the numbers don’t show. As filmmakers, we’ve been lucky to get access to all these role-players on the ground and this is our take on the numbers released for 2017:

“A minor decrease in the number of rhino poached nationally in 2017”. That’s the line Minister Molewa used in her report. A total of 1,028 rhinos were poached during the year 2017, down from 1,054 in 2016 – the second year in a row we have seen a slight decrease – mostly because of the reductions achieved in the Kruger National Park. Great news for Kruger, down 24% to just over 500 rhinos poached for 2017. But if we take a closer look at the provincial stats, we see the true story behind the overall decrease:

Apart from the Kruger region, only three other provinces achieve negative poaching numbers. Gauteng doesn’t really count with a drop from 6 to 4, and in the Eastern Cape, the drop from 17 to 12 was probably due to the arrest of one gang of darters. But Limpopo, down to 79 from 90, is great news! Bear in mind that Limpopo had four years of high numbers around the 100 mark. The bulk of rhinos in Limpopo are privately owned and the Limpopo Rhino Security Group (LRSG) was formed two years ago in an attempt to join the farmers in targeting the onslaught. The group has been working with various SAPS units (from stock theft to crime intelligence), private anti-poaching units and the DEA’s EMI enforcers to bring down the poaching. It’s been a huge effort and it’s paying off. The legalizing of local trade did have some impact in the province with several of the farmers telling us they would sell horn the minute it became legal to do so. Several owners dehorned in anticipation of sales – possibly an added benefit as a deterrent.

Rhino poaching carcass — Bonné de Bod and a private rhino owner inspect a rhino poached on his farm © Susan Scott for STROOP

The rest of the provinces however have been hit hard. Kwa-Zulu Natal was a disaster area, with the well-publicized onslaught in the provincial parks. How can we forget the cow and calf killed right in the heart of iMfolozi, at the game capture bomas, just after the organization’s game auction. How shocking that two security guards with one weapon between them were protecting millions of rands of assets that had just been sold. Almost all of the 222 poachings in Kwa-Zulu Natal were government-owned rhinos – fewer than 5% from privately-owned reserves and farms. A massive dehorning effort from the private owners in the area throughout 2017 may have acted as a further deterrent. The vets were very busy in Limpopo and KZN during 2017.

North West suffered a 72% increase – with tourists to Pilanesburg reporting the massacres. Several private rhino owners in the province were also targeted. The Northern Cape and the Freestate continued their significant poaching increases from 2015 through into 2017 (100% and 124%). The bulk of rhinos in these provinces are privately-owned. We visited a farmer just outside Kimberley in the middle of winter last year who had lost 9 rhinos literally overnight. 9 rhinos!

Surely Kwa-Zulu Natal, the home of the white rhino, should be doing a better job of securing their future? Unconfirmed reports of alleged “capture” of some of the province’s judiciary and enforcement resources are a concern. And it’s sobering that even our own police minister tweeted last year that our police force has been infiltrated. We know from rangers on the ground in Kwa-Zulu Natal that many of the spoor from poachers they follow under the full “poachers moon” are of repeat offenders – caught previously with blood all over them, in possession of rhino horns. It’s simply not good enough that our dedicated rangers are putting their lives on the line, and yet not getting the support they need.

Contrast that to what is happening in the Kruger National Park. We’ve been filming with the rangers on the ground there as well as the SAPS investigating officers and the special prosecutors from the NPA. Everyone works exceptionally well together and you can see it in their convictions, almost doubling from 58 to 111 last year. One of the reasons why the poaching has decreased in the park, is not only new technology coming in over the past year but also, as Maj. Gen. Jooste always says, ‘technology can do a lot, but it’s the human element that makes the real difference’. And we’ve seen that success on the back of a team effort – from the Kruger ranger who ensures a clean arrest to the SAPS investigating officer who makes the case watertight, and the prosecutor who doesn’t let the well-paid defence team of lawyers get the poachers off on technicalities. Editorial comment: We reported on how teams in the Kruger are working well together: Good news for Rhinos.

In closing, it is with some heartache that we look at the figure of 222 poached rhinos for Kwa-Zulu Natal. Two of those rhinos we got to know well and filmed on numerous occasions – Gugu and Impy. Gugu and Impy were orphans who were saved and taken to Karen Trendler and her team at the Thula Thula Rhino Orphange. They were poached when the orphanage, now closed, was attacked in February 2017. Gugu was killed immediately, but little Impy suffered tremendously and had to be euthanised while battling to breathe through what was left of his face. It must’ve been an awful thing to see him struggling to keep his battered head up out of the mud that surrounded him, threatening to suffocate Impy through his open nasal cavities. The irony, is that when he was orphaned, he was found next to his mother’s carcass drinking her seeping body fluid and eating the mud surrounding her to stay alive. 18 months later, here he was suffering the same awful, awful death.

It’s tough for us to read the 222 statistic for Kwa-Zulu Natal and not think of Impy. For us this puts a real perspective on each individual rhino of the 1028 poached in 2017. What we can take away is what the minister said, “I know it doesn’t sound like a lot but it’s 26 fewer animals”. And that has to count for something … surely? Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod

Kruger National Park crime scene © Susan Scott for STROOP

Pangolin research in the Kalahari

Up close of a pangolin in the wild — Sir Charles the pangolin © Christian Boix

Out among the red sand dunes of the southern Kalahari, with the sun setting on the horizon, you may be lucky enough to find a small armoured creature going about its evening, foraging and scratching around for its favourite food – ants and termites – seemingly oblivious to any human presence.

As a torchlight illuminates his way, ground pangolin ‘number four’ – or Sir Charles as he is fondly called by the guides – is unknowingly helping research to determine the real effects of climate change on the physiology of pangolins and how they might cope with increasingly hotter and drier conditions in arid environments. In the greater scheme of things, this research should hopefully contribute to the larger issue of global pangolin conservation and help to predict how pangolins may respond to climate change in the future. Ground pangolins are also called Temminck’s or the Cape pangolin.

And out there leading this particular research is Wendy Panaino. As part of her PhD at Wits University, she is currently conducting research at Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve in South Africa, situated on the southwest edge of the ground pangolin distribution range. She has been heading out into the Kalahari wilderness practically every night for the past few years to track and monitor one of a number of tagged pangolins, thanks to a VHF receiver and antenna to help locate them.

Ground pangolin with tracker attached in Kalahari, South Africa — Sir Charles with the tracker attached to his scales © Christian Boix

Her research is mainly centred around determining the consequences of climate change on pangolins. For example, pangolins are primarily nocturnal but may shift their activity times to avoid the high temperatures during summer or become more diurnal to avoid the cold nighttime temperatures during winter.

In addition, the impacts on prey availability of specific ants and termites may affect their diet if drier and hotter conditions prevail, as insects are very susceptible to changes in climate and environment. One aspect affecting pangolin physiology and behaviour is increased temperatures, leading to an increase in water requirements and an increase in prey consumption (their main source of water).

Wild pangolin head and claws digging up ants — Pangolins are myrmecophagous, meaning that they feed exclusively on ants and termites © Thea Felmore

One of four pangolin species found in Africa, the ground pangolin (Smutsia temminckii) is the only pangolin species to inhabit arid environments in the southern African region.

Because not much is known about the physiology and ecology of these pangolins, this long-term, detailed research (a first of its kind for this species) will determine how they may react and cope with increasingly warmer conditions in this arid region. Using miniature temperature data loggers implanted in the pangolin, Wendy has been able to investigate and measure core body temperatures of the pangolins and has documented several interesting behaviours and dietary patterns.

Researcher collecting ant samples for pangolin research in Kalahari — Wendy collecting ant samples © Thea Felmore

As Wendy follows Sir Charles around, she collects data in the form of ants and termites that he has just fed on, from which she can determine the type of ant/termite species he is eating, the amount of nutrients and water he is receiving in his diet, among other things. She is also observing his behaviour (activity levels, feeding habits, types of ants or termites eaten, distance covered, etc), and the availability of ants and termites in his habitat.

Wendy’s research on a wild population of pangolins at a regional scale will provide valuable information that can be used to ensure the survival of a species that is already severely threatened by the illegal wildlife trade.

Ground pangolin foraging for food in bush in Kalahari — Sir Charles going about this evening foraging © Thea Felmore

Zombie ants and the dark side of the Force

A zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia © Andrei Daniel Mihalca (Photographer of the Year 2018 entry)

You may be mistaken to believe that the Force is only found out in a galaxy far, far away, but in actual fact you can find it right here in nature. Next time you’re in a tropical rainforest, take a look under a leaf close to the ground and you may find a zombie ant, clinging to life while a deadly parasitic fungus uses mind-control to slowly feed off it and grow.

Zombie ants may sound like something out of a sci-fi thriller, but they do exist, and the culprit that uses it’s own dark version of the Force is the deadly Ophiocordyceps unilateralis – an insect-pathogenising fungus.

The parasitic fungus infects mainly one variety of ant – the carpenter ant – where its spores are picked up by the ant on the rainforest floor. (Normally the ants are located higher in the canopy, but sometimes they deviate from the normal trail and fall to the floor). Once infected, the fungus uses its powers to have the ant ascend the nearest plant stem where it settles under a leaf (or attaches to the stem itself) that is around 25cm off the ground – the ideal zone where the temperature and humidity allow the fungus to grow.

With the ant’s mandibles permanently locked onto the leaf (thanks to the fungus mind-control), the fungus will grow and feed off the ant’s non-vital organs. Eventually the ant dies and the fungus sends out a stalk through the ant’s head where fresh spores are released allowing for more ants to become infected.

Interestingly, it was only until recently that studies revealed how this parasitic fungus actually takes control of an ant. Initially it was thought to go for the brain, controlling the ant’s actions while feeding off its non-vital organs. However, it has now been discovered that the fungus actually infects the ant’s muscles and incredibly leaves the brain untouched. This means that the ant is still technically conscious of what is going on, but it cannot move as the fungus has control.

Now if that isn’t a horror story of minuscule proportions we don’t know what is!

Kalahari lions: Research sheds light on population

Two African lions in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa — © Derek Keats/Flickr

Lions are threatened across their natural range, and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KTP) straddling South Africa and Botswana is a stronghold for the species.

A research project, conducted during 2013-2015 and published in April 2017, resulted in a population estimate of 246 (237–256) lions (most precise of three count methods) in the southwestern sector of KTP, which is higher than previous estimates.

Summary

A 30% population decline and 80% range reduction over the past 20 years has resulted in there being fewer than 20,000 wild lions remaining in Africa, across 65 natural populations. Ten of these natural populations are considered strongholds – and KTP is one of these ten strongholds.

Small populations of animals that are subjected to high rates of human persecution, such as Africa’s lions, have a greater likelihood of extinction, and so understanding trends in population size, age and sex is important.

Previous research over the preceding 40 years suggested a relatively stable Kalahari lion population of 517 lions in the entire KTP, but research in 2010 off a small sample suggested a male bias of 56%, compared to previous research reflecting a female bias of 58%.

The aim of this research, therefore, was to reduce uncertainty as to population size and key variables.

African lions and cubs at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa — © Derek Keats/Flickr

The research was conducted in the dune savanna semi-desert of the southwestern sector of KTP. The area of 14,250 km² covered the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and a buffer strip to the east, in the Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. The researchers drove 49,784 km over 26 months, with 317 days of sampling. They counted 261 individual lions, from 1,162 sightings (of which 1,022 could be identified), and recorded 11 deaths. Of the identified lions, 74 were cubs born during the survey period.

Three methods of counting were utilised, producing the following results:

1. Mark-recapture: 246 (237-256) lions

2. Track indices: 242 (176-307) lions

3. Registration study (after removing known deaths): 250 lions

The report includes a detailed discussion about each of the three methods, including shortcomings and inaccuracies.

The full report: African Journal of Wildlife Research, B. Otto Beukes, Frans G.T. Radloff, Sam M. Ferreira.: “Estimating African lion abundance in the southwestern Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park”

A large African lion in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa — © Derek Keats/Flickr

Safari tips: How to find luxury safari lodges at a discount

Luxury lodge in Klaserie, Greater Kruger National Park — Even luxury lodges like this are affordable if you travel outside of the high season © Simon Espley

The price you pay for your safari lodge is primarily determined by when you travel, and so with a bit of flexibility as to the timing of your holidays, you can slash big chunks off your accommodation cost.

It helps to understand what it means to go on safari outside of the usual tourism seasons, and so we have prepared an explanation of the when and what of the safari seasons.

The HIGH / PEAK season – June to October

This is when most people take long leave (the northern hemisphere summer break), and go on safari.

The rules of supply and demand kick in, and lodges are priced at their peak – AND you will find that popular areas such as Botswana and South Africa’s Greater Kruger become fully booked during this period, far in advance. Some publicly accessible wildlife areas can be congested during this period, whereas lodges with exclusive traverse areas don’t suffer from this problem.

These are the dry and dusty months, when there is less vegetation to hinder your view and when animals congregate near water sources and are therefore easier to find. You are likely to see more wildlife during this period and have a higher chance of seeing predators in action.

Wild dogs and elephants at waterhole — Wild dogs share a Savute waterhole during the dry season with elephants © James Gifford

The SHOULDER seasons – November/December & April/May

This is when most international travellers have gone home, and the local and regional travellers are left to enjoy the show.

Lodges drop their prices, and the crowds evaporate – an excellent time to travel!

November/December is a great time for safari because the height of the dry season has broken and the first brief rains bring change to the landscapes, as grass and buds start popping up everywhere. Cute babies start dropping all over the place, and resident predators have a field day. Migratory animals start dispersing after the first rains, but resident populations of most species keep the show on the road.

Migratory birds arrive, and most birds get stuck into breeding and are therefore more vocal and visible. Flying termites emerge and are preyed on by many species, from eagles and snakes to frogs and even leopards. Temperatures are more bearable than in September/October, and the usually infrequent rain clears the smoke and dust from the air.

In April/May, the rains have ended, and widespread water sources are starting to dry up, and animals start moving to areas with permanent water. Temperatures are pleasant, and the bushveld is particularly lush and beautiful.

Shoulder season safari in Africa, lodge accommodation — November/December sees bursts of green grass and buds after the first rains © Simon Espley

The LOW / GREEN / EMERALD season – January to March

This is when all significant holiday periods (local and international) are over, and few people go on safari.

Lodges drop prices significantly as occupancies plummet. This a great time to negotiate reasonable rates and those extras that make you feel pampered and special!

This period sees trees, shrubs and grasses thicken up – making wildlife viewing more difficult. Rainfall (usually once a day in the late afternoon) means widespread water availability, and many species disperse to take advantage of specific food opportunities and to get away from predators. Many resident species remain though but are harder to see. For some experienced travellers, this is their favourite time – because nature is now at full throttle as many species are breeding and there is plenty of food for everybody.

Green season safari in Africa, walking through African bush grass — During the green season, the grass is long, and the trees and bushes are thickly foliaged © Kelsea Lee

Ask an expert

Of course, these ‘rules’ vary regionally, and according to local conditions and animal movements. For example, the Kasanka bat and the Liuwa Plain wildebeest migrations in Zambia happen in November.

That’s why you need sound advice about when, where, and what on safari. There is nothing like experience to guide your safari choices.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Rediscovering Kruger

Living on the African continent, we have a vast array of protected areas to visit. Those of us with a travel-addiction and passion for wildlife endeavour to visit them all – the Okavango, Maasai Mara and Serengeti to mention just a few. However, we sometimes overlook what we have right on our doorstep, such as the legendary Kruger National Park in South Africa. Some of us have practically grown up with it, building layers upon layers of wonderful and precious memories.

After spending a couple of years visiting other parks, I decided it was time to go back to Kruger and recollect those memories. I booked in the northern area as this would give me access to travel to the central area of the park as well.

The first thing that hit me was how dry everything was. I remember many years ago all the rivers were full and flowing, and now the Shingwedzi and Letaba were dry riverbeds with pools of water here and there. The clouds had been gathering on my arrival, and hopefully, the rain was on the way. Nevertheless, the landscapes were still remarkable.

A dry riverbed, Kruger National Park, South Africa — A dry riverbed in Kruger – rain is needed desperately © Shirli Jade Carswell

The magnificent boys

In the Kruger, there is a project called the Emerging Tuskers Project that aims to identify all of the tuskers (elephants with large tusks) in the park. More in-depth coverage of this project can be found here: Giants of the Future. Due to poaching concerns, specific locations of these tuskers, such as the ones I was fortunate to spot, are not revealed.

First, there was Nkombo – whom I managed to identify later correctly – and I was able to watch him from a safe distance while he went about his daily activities. His enormous tusks were perfect, and as the only vehicle in his presence, I felt truly honoured and in awe.

Elephant with magnificent tusks in the Kruger — Nkombo’s gigantic tusks are a sight to behold © Shirli Jade Carswell

Later on, in a different area, the breathtaking Mandzemba stood in the pale grass, pulling tufts and shaking them briefly before eating. In the stillness of the bush, I could hear his chewing and shifting from one foot to another. His tusks looked as though they would surely plough through the earth if he put his head down. I saw him again some days later, heading for the water as the sun was going down. I could not have wished for a better sundowner.

A large tusker elephant named Mandzemba in Kruger National Park, South Africa — The mighty – yet elegant – tusker, Mandzemba © Shirli Jade Carswell

Because of the dry conditions, the waterholes were a constant hive of activity. In the late afternoon, the breeding herds would arrive from every direction.

Appearing through the stunted mopane bush, their pace would pick up when the water was in sight, and the younger generation would start running with the matriarchs, aunts and sisters keeping up.

A herd of elephants at a waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa — There was constant activity at the waterholes because of the dry conditions © Shirli Jade Carswell

Their arrival, of course, would scatter the rest of the wildlife by the waterholes. The dust filtered through the air and light, giving me some delightful photos.

Zebra and buffalo scatter as an elephant approaches waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa — The dominance of the elephant is clearly shown as zebra, wildebeest and buffalo scatter as it approached the waterhole © Shirli Jade Carswell

And once again, I found myself falling in love with these special Kruger elephants, wondering why I had stayed away for so long?

Large tusker elephant at a waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa — Mandzemba making his way to the waterhole for a much-needed drink © Shirli Jade Carswell

Travelling light

I enjoy camping; it somehow makes me feel more connected to wherever I am. And when it comes to camps: the smaller, the better. I enjoy the more rustic wilderness camps like Balule or Tsendze where like-minded people enjoy the peace and quiet.

When camping, I sleep in my very own little ‘tent-cot’, which is a bit unusual, but perfect for light packing. It folds out as a lounger would, and getting in and out is an art. At Shingwedzi early one morning, as I slid carefully out of my tiny abode in a half-asleep state, I was faced with about eight people all standing in a circle around my tent discussing what this ‘thing’ could be… it was a slightly awkward encounter, and I’m not sure who was more surprised!

A tent-cot, camping table and 4x4 vehicle in Kruger National Park, South Africa — A tent-cot is a real space saver! © Shirli Jade Carswell

Part of the pleasure of a park like Kruger is the self-drive aspect and spotting wildlife yourself. The unpredictability of what you may see is exciting, and I always recommend that visitors who are coming for the first time take the opportunity of a self-drive after staying at a safari lodge, to experience another perspective.

Cheetahs are just thrilling to see, no matter where you are. While I was in Kruger, I happened to come across a mother and her two cubs who were finishing up their lunch – their interaction was captivating. Besides helping to clean each other in spots they would not otherwise reach, the grooming is essential for bonding. Fortunately, that wasn’t my last cheetah sighting, and I was thrilled to come across a solitary cheetah peering through the gnarled trunks of the mopane.

**Left:** *A solitary cheetah peers through the gnarled trunks of the mopane;* **Right:** *A beautiful moment captured of a cheetah mother and her two cubs ©* Shirli Jade Carswell

I can spend hours watching the chacma baboon troops in Kruger. Their relationships can be likened to that of human relationships, and the new babies are simply enchanting.

Every time I see a troop, I am reminded of my father’s favourite story:

Many years ago, we were driving through the Kruger in our family Pontiac, a classic car now, but then quite standard. My father had, up to that point, endless problems with the one windscreen wiper – no one could seem to get it to sit correctly. In those days, the baboons had a habit of jumping on cars to peer through the windows. A big chap jumped onto the Pontiac, grabbed the offending wiper, thus bending it, before jumping off again. Would you believe it? The wiper sat perfectly! My father took great delight in making sure the auto guys knew who had fixed the wiper.

Baby chacma baboon with mother in Kruger National Park, South Africa — The chacma baboon is also known as the Cape baboon. Their social behaviour is not too dissimilar to humans in certain aspects © Shirli Jade Carswell

Natural design

As a designer, I am always blown away by the shapes, colours and structures of how everything in nature is ‘put together’. Zebras with their graphics, the way the lines move or are caught by the light. The elegant giraffe floating between the treetops in their geometric design and the icon of the national parks. The handsome kudu with sculpted horns and their soft female counterparts.

Giraffe from behind in Kruger National Park, South Africa — A giraffe browses in the Kruger © Shirli Jade Carswell

Overall I found that Kruger’s wildlife looked impressive and healthy, even though it was dry with the park holding its breath for rain.

**Clockwise from left:** *The stripes on every zebra are unique to the individual – the detail is phenomenal; A herd of zebra provide the opportunity for exquisite photos; The iconic kudu is a delicate, wondrous animal* © Shirli Jade Carswell

Hippo love, lunch with a leopard and dagga boys

They may act like ‘blobs’ in the water with a nice yawn now and then, but hippos can be full of humour. I have seen them playing like puppies, and one thing was confirmed for me while in Kruger: those photos you see with the plants on their heads are sometimes on purpose.

There were hardly any plants in the water except for this one floating ‘garland’, and this chap made a point of going underneath it, to have it positioned on his neck, to present to his lady-love. He eventually got it right after several attempts, and I felt like they were now ‘married’, joined by the floating garland, amidst the cheers of my clapping.

I have always managed to get good sightings of leopards in the Kalahari and other parks, but no such luck with Kruger, having always just missed seeing it, or at such a distance that it is hardly a proper sighting. This particular trip, however, presented me with three beautiful specimens, the last being this little lady (see photo below) who seemed to be waiting for her mother. She sat in the tree, no more than four metres away, mostly just gazing at me. I sat there for hours, enjoying her presence.

**Left:** *A breathtaking close up of a leopard; **Right:** A splendid capture of two hippos at play* © Shirli Jade Carswell

Someone once described the look from a buffalo as, “You owe me money”, a perfect description I thought. In earlier years, I remember watching massive herds stampeding in the dust. Years later, on other visits, it seems as though these herds have disappeared. Fortunately, luck was on my side, and I came across some decent-sized herds on this trip.

A herd of buffalo in Kruger National Park, South Africa — The buffalo is one of South Africa’s Big 5, and they are abundant in the Kruger © Shirli Jade Carswell

From my time spent in Kruger, one thing is for sure: I will be back shortly! I fell totally in love yet again with this gem we have just hours away.
My parents, John and Ann, who taught my sisters and me the love and respect for wildlife, have a memorial bench at Lower Sabie camp. If you ever there, please sit down and have a beer with them.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Passionate about Africa; Shirli’s energy, life, spirit and career revolve around the continent and its wildlife. Shirli cut her teeth in the world of advertising after art school, realising her forte was in the raw design field – added to this her love for wildlife and travel – she established her own design company called JADEWORKS, which has made a name for itself in the safari and tourism industry.

Photography was a natural evolution, and the more she experimented, the more she was captivated by the medium – the collaboration of design, travel and vision was initiated through the name of AFRICAALIVE.

She has travelled extensively in Africa and recently co-authored a photographic coffee table book called Africa’s Ultimate Safaris, in addition to becoming a co-owner and founder of THE WILDSIDE SAFARI COMPANY, an exciting new travel venture.

Mr President: Selling wild-caught baby elephants to China is just plain evil

Elephant kicked during capture in Zimbabwe

Elephant calf mistreated after capture in Zimbabwe — Footage from the capture of the elephants in Zimbabwe © The Guardian

Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE PRESIDENT OF ZIMBABWE – EMMERSON MNANGAGWA

Attention: Your Excellency Emmerson Mnangagwa, president of Zimbabwe

As another shipment of wild-caught baby elephants from Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe jets out of Victoria Falls airport on Ethiopian Airlines to zoos and private collections in China, it’s surely time to call this for what it is: Just plain evil.

This is not a conservation or ‘sustainable utilisation’ issue – the removal of this quantity of elephants will certainly not impact significantly on wild elephant populations, or alleviate the claimed pressure from ‘too many’ elephants on vegetation in Hwange. This is also not about what is permissible under CITES regulations.

No, this is quite simply about people in positions of authority abusing their power to do each other favours. This is about return favours between high-level people in Zimbabwe and China – “you approve this transaction and I will throw in a few baby elephants for your entertainment” sort of thing. These baby elephants are trinkets on the arms of people who do not care about brand Zimbabwe or the dignity or well-being of individual creatures.

If you are not well-advised on how elephants fare in zoos, this quote is from Peter Stroud, the former curator of the Melbourne Zoo from 1998-2003, who was involved in sourcing elephants from Thailand:

“There is now abundant evidence that elephants do not and cannot thrive in zoos,” Stroud says. “Young elephants will never develop naturally as socially and ecologically functioning beings in zoos. They will face a very long and very slow process of mental and physiological breakdown resulting inevitably in chronic physical and mental abnormality, disease and premature death.”

Moving aside from the moral issue, does it make business sense to endanger your tourism industry, just to keep this barbaric practice going? Zimbabwe is a beautiful and diverse country, with good wildlife populations, fantastic lodges and warm, welcoming people. If you have any doubt about how the world of safari-goers feels about this practice of selling baby elephants to zoos, why not ask them? Use social media to reach out – and ask them. Then get clever people to quantify the negative response into likely ongoing loss of tourism business. You decide if the cost is worth the supposed benefit.

If hugely important commercial and political agreements between Zimbabwe and China are dependent on baby elephants being tossed in as by-products, then perhaps you need to ask yourself just how serious China is about Zimbabwe in the first place.

Mr President, your recent rise to power provides a unique opportunity to rid Zimbabwe of this cancer – this morally bankrupt notion that everything is for sale – even baby elephants. Perhaps it’s time to give this issue your attention, and to take action? Zimbabwe’s tourism industry would certainly benefit if you took action and drew a line in the sand. Please, Mr President.

Niassa suffers forest loss, but able to support elephants and lions

Niassa National Reserve CREDIT JEAN-BAPTISTE DEFFONTAINES (1)

Niassa National Reserve, aerial view — © Jean-Baptiste Deffontaines

The vast and remote Niassa National Reserve in northern Mozambique is a sprawling mass of miombo woodland, savannah, granite inselbergs, wetlands, river floodplains and riverine forest. Despite its remote location, the hand of man impacts heavily on this wilderness.

A recent study by James R Allan et al, published in the PARKS Journal, found that some 108 km² of forest has been destroyed between 2001 and 2014, which is almost 1% of the 42,000 km² protected area. The reserve has also suffered at the hands of commercial poaching, with elephant populations plummeting by more than 70%. In 2012 there were 12,000 elephants; in 2016 only 3,500 remained.

Most encouragingly, the report suggests that Niassa still has the potential to support tens of thousands of elephants and 1,000 lions, as the vast majority of the ecosystem is intact.

Lions in Niassa National Reserve — © Jean-Baptiste Deffontaines

The 1% loss of forest within the reserve over the 14-year study period is lower than losses in neighbouring regions (2%) and the two northern Mozambique provinces (5.7%) during the same period. Most of the losses occurred due to agriculture and settlement along roads.

Although forest loss is always a source of concern, the relatively low percentage loss in this instance is good news in the broader African context, where forest loss is five times the global average. The authors report that Niassa’s protected area status has helped save it from large-scale land clearing that has plagued outside areas, despite the fact that that forest governance in Mozambique is generally weak.

Niassa National Reserve is Mozambique’s largest protected area, spanning 42,000 square kilometres, and is home to approximately 40,000 people legally living in 40 villages within its boundaries. These isolated people have no access to jobs and have historically eked out a subsistence lifestyle from the bush. They fish, gather honey and hunt for bushmeat, skins and ivory. They also grow tobacco and food crops, which are raided daily by wild animals. Villagers are frequently attacked and sometimes killed, by crocodiles, hippos, elephants and lions.

The study found that the reserve’s diverse miombo woodland habitat is still intact, and with proper investment in best practice management could support large assemblages of megafauna. Though rampant poaching has impacted wildlife – particularly elephants – residual wildlife populations could recolonise.

Other threats to Niassa include artisanal mining, land-use change, bushmeat poaching, commercial poaching, wildfires, climate change, and selective logging.

The authors say that given the potentially substantial benefits to biodiversity conservation and broader societal goals, investing in the effective management of Niassa should be a global conservation priority. There are very few places remaining on the planet that can hold populations of large wildlife in the tens of thousands, and Niassa Reserve, with its connection to Selous Game Reserve in southern Tanzania, is one of these places.

The full report: PARKS Journal, James R. Allan, Falk Grossmann, Rob Craig, Alastair Nelson, Joseph Maina, Kathleen Flower, James Bampton, Jean-BapƟste Deffontaines, Cornelio Miguel, Baldeu Araquechande and James E.M. Watson: “Patterns of forest loss in one of Africa’s last remaining wilderness areas: Niassa National Reserve”

Niassa deforestation, Niassa National Reserve — © James Allen

Federal Court invalidates decision for trophy imports to US

Sourced from third-party site: The Humane Society (USA)

On December 22, 2017, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the DC Circuit upheld the conservation mandate of the Endangered Species Act, supporting the need to rigorously analyse applications to import hunting trophies of species threatened with extinction.

This federal court order, coming only weeks after President Trump tweeted that he was reconsidering the agency’s decision to allow imports of elephant and lion trophies from Zimbabwe and Zambia, means that those recent decisions by the agency are invalid.

Anna Frostic, managing attorney for wildlife litigation for The Humane Society of the United States, said, “The federal government must carefully consider the science demonstrating that trophy hunting negatively impacts the conservation of imperilled species. We strongly urge the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to take immediate action to rescind its unlawful decisions to liberalise elephant and lion trophy imports.”

The Court also held that the agency must take public comment on any blanket decisions to allow or prohibit trophy imports based on individual countries management plans.

China’s ban on domestic ivory sales now in effect

Sourced from third-party site: The Citizen

China’s complete ban on ivory trade went into effect Sunday, officials said, a major step forward in Beijing’s efforts to rein in what was once the world’s largest market for illegal ivory.

“From today… the buying and selling of elephant ivory and goods by any market, shop or vendor is against the law!” the forestry ministry said on its official account on Chinese social media platform Weibo.

“From now on, if a merchant tells you ‘this is a state-approved ivory dealer’… he is duping you and knowingly violating the law.”

The ministry added that the ban also applied to online sales and souvenirs purchased abroad. According to the Xinhua state news agency, a partial ban had already resulted in an 80% decline in seizures of ivory entering China. Domestic prices for raw ivory are down 65%, it said.

The total domestic ban was announced at the end of last year. By this March, Xinhua reported, 67 factories and shops involved in China’s ivory trade had closed. The remaining 105 were expected to close Sunday.

China had previously banned imports of all ivory and ivory products acquired before 1975, after pressure to restrict a trade that sees thousands of elephants slaughtered every year.

African ivory is highly sought after in China, where it is seen as a status symbol, and used to fetch as much as $1,100 a kilogram. Poaching in Africa has seen the elephant population fall by 110,000 over the last 10 years to just 415,000, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Despite an overall fall in poaching, Africa’s elephant population has declined in part because of continued illegal killing, said a report this year by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

Opinion: Hunting’s threat to conservation

Lion hunting, Photo for illustrative purposes only — Photo of a lion hunt for illustrative purposes only

Opinion post: Written by Steve Wiggins and Chris Mercer

Peter Flack’s (“South African lawyer, business man and hunter”) recent piece in the Daily Maverick, titled “It is canned killing, not hunting, that hampers conservation efforts” (17 December 2017) offers a hunter’s perceived threats to conservation in South Africa (and beyond):

1. Canned hunting;
2. hybrid breeding of target species; and
3. the animal rights movement.

Dealing with those claims seriatim:

Canned hunting

How can ‘canned’ possibly be a major threat to conservation on the basis advanced by Flack; namely, the absence of fair chase – where in theory, the hunter’s quarry has a (limited) chance to evade its own unnatural death? What on Earth does fair chase have to do with conservation? Whether a target is fairly chased or not, it still bleeds and dies and is removed from the environment. On the contrary, there is an argument that the canned hunting of captive-bred lions causes less damage to lion conservation in one respect than hunting wild lions, with all the damage the latter causes to pride dynamics. I am not hereby endorsing the hunting of wild lions – rather I am pointing out the shortfalls in Flack’s logic.

No, the real objection that Flack has to canned hunting is that it is a reputational threat to the existence, “good reputation” [sic] and profitability of the whole hunting industry. He fears that the increasing public disgust ‘canned’ is causing is pulling down the whole trophy hunting industry with it.

We should not forget the negative conservation implications of ‘canned’ (the hunting and lion bone trade) due to its lack of any credible proven positive conservation contribution or conservation need.

There are no proven conservation benefits of ‘canned’ (‘captive’, ‘ranch’) – but quite the opposite, with the potential detrimental impact still to be adequately acknowledged and addressed by the Republic of South Africa’s Department: Environmental Affairs (DEA);

In their 29 November 2017 “Open letter to Secretary Zinke: The African Lion Conservation Community’s Response,” the need for any conservation (rewilding potential) from South Africa’s ‘canned’ industry was rejected.

Hybrid breeding

Indeed the cross-breeding of species to produce mutant freaks for the hunting industry merely underlines the threat that hunting poses to wildlife.

If the breeders will do anything to grasp at the almighty dollar then this supports our view that hunting is not about conservation at all, but is driven by commercial profiteering.

Animal rights

It is popular in hunting circles to blame ‘animal rightists’ for hunting’s shortcomings and to throw epithets like ‘radical, extremist, and a threat to conservation.’ But these labels assume that hunting is conservation. The animal welfare movement certainly damages the hunting industry, but whether it damages conservation depends on the proven truth of hunting’s animal welfare claims, and the falsity of hunting propaganda. The truth is always subversive of an entity built upon lies.

Accordingly, we would contend that the three major threats to conservation in Africa are:

1. The unrelenting growth of the human population is devouring the wilderness and causing massive habitat loss for wildlife.

2. The lamentable failure of African governments to devote available resources to protecting wilderness and existing wildlife populations.

3. The hunting industry. Not only does the hunting industry inflict massive damage upon wildlife populations in Africa, but by expanding its profitable business model of breeding wildlife species as alternative livestock, the industry is effectively changing the land-use from the serious business of producing food for the nation, to mere entertainment.

Is it really in the national interest that vast tracts of land which represent food security are being converted into providing hunting entertainment for a wealthy elite?

Compare the three items above that Flack contends are the major threats to conservation with our own. We doubt if there is a single conservation scientist in the world who would agree that the Flack list is defensible.

The assertion is made by Flack that the “1977” trophy hunting ban implementation in Kenya and Botswana’s move to ban trophy hunting in 2014 have been “manifest disasters” for wildlife because of the loss of trophy hunting’s claimed ‘benefits’ – an oft repeated pro-hunting mantra.

Scientists conducting a 2009 study (“Effects of human – livestock – wildlife interactions on habitat in an eastern Kenyan rangeland”) – they believe the surge in domestic livestock is predominantly accountable for the drop in Kenya’s wildlife population – the three main causes cited for the drop in wildlife numbers are illegal poaching, larger numbers and ranges of domestic livestock, plus changing land use patterns on the ranches. There is no mention of trophy hunting’s absence as a cause/effect for the decline in Kenya’s wildlife since the ban was implemented in 1979.

Is Kenya an example of what will happen if trophy hunting is banned in a country? No, it is not. Kenya would seem to be an example of poor land management, poaching and wanton over-grazing, based on a culture where a man’s wealth and social status is directly linked to owning large herds of cattle, which dominate the grazing available to the detriment of wildlife.

Botswana’s tourism figures surpassed 2 million in 2016, so clearly there is demand within Botswana for non-consumptive tourism (and long may it continue).

In support of his ‘hunting is a saviour’ arguments, Flack states “some simple, scientifically established facts” including the statement at point 5 of his article: “…those [endangered species] that had been hunted most assiduously had recovered best, for example … rhinoceroses …” So, the claim is hunting saved the rhinoceros (referring to ‘Operation Rhino’ in the 1960s no doubt) and by logical extension of this claim, “assiduously” hunting and killing endangered species is a guaranteed saviour.

However, it is also a ‘fact’ that unregulated and excessive hunting pre-‘Operation Rhino’ overwhelmingly contributed to the decimation and plight of rhinoceros in the first place:

“South African populations of black and white rhinos (subspecies C. s. simum), both of which had been nearly extinct in the year 1900 due to uncontrolled hunting…” (“Sustainable rhino horn production at the pointy end of the rhino horn trade debate,” Taylor et al., Biological Conservation: Vol. 216, page 60 – 68, December 2017).

So, any claims that hunting was the saviour of the rhinoceros as a ‘fact’ are somewhat disingenuous. Hence, any claims that “assiduously” hunting therefore must be endured as the saviour of all endangered species should be treated with incredulity.

A new generation of Kruger photographers

The Wild Shots Outreach programme began just over two years ago in November 2015. The programme aims to give students from disadvantaged communities that border the Greater Kruger National Park area in South Africa the opportunity to experience the wonder of the wild and immortalise moments through the lens of a camera. The majority of these students have never been to a national park or reserve before.

The programme is based in Hoedspruit, which allows the students to visit the famous Kruger National Park. Since its inception, 32 projects have been run, encompassing a total of 291 students.

This initiative is genuinely sensational, and Africa Geographic is proud to be able to showcase these students’ photos and thoughts of their experience.

CHEYEZA KHUMALO
Cheyeza is 16 years old. She attended a Wild Shots Outreach course in Selati Game Reserve as part of Selati’s “Bush Buddies” programme fostering links between Zivulo Senior School, a local government school, and Penryn College.
“The lion is my favourite animal. It was so exciting to see one and take some photos. Africa’s wild places are the best places you can go to experience nature at its best. Wildlife photography is a thrilling experience. It makes you feel alive.”

A lioness in the bush staring back at the camera — Photo credit: Cheyeza Khumalo © Wild Shots Outreach

BRIDGET MOKOERA
Bridget is 13 years old and attends Hoedspruit Hoerskool. This is a new government school serving Hoedspruit and the surrounding communities. Bridget and her Wild Shots Outreach group did their game drive in a wildlife estate near Hoedspruit.
“I feel that conservation and our wild places are critical. I like taking photos because of the story behind each photograph.”

Four birds gliding through the air — Photo credit: Bridget Mokoera © Wild Shots Outreach

DAN MAKUBELA
Dan is 13 years old. He attended a residential Wild Shots Outreach course for the children of staff from Tanda Tula Safari Camp in the Timbavati Game Reserve. Even though his father Erick works at the lodge, this was Dan’s first visit to a game reserve.
“I feel very happy about my experience as it is the first time I have been. I enjoyed everything we did with the cameras – I can get good shots now. My favourite animal is the elephant. They have power and are tough.”

Leopard sitting on a rock looking at the camera — Photo credit: Dan Makubela © Wild Shots Outreach

Hands-on experience

The students experience a very practical, hands-on course, where they start with learning camera basics and how to use the controls. After that, they build up their knowledge with more advanced techniques and settings, such as learning about shutter and aperture priority. Once the course is complete, they set off into the wilderness to put their photographic knowledge and skills to the test.

FAITH KHOSA
Faith attends Southern Cross School in Hoedspruit, where the original pilot for the Wild Shots Outreach course was run. At 18 years old, her ambition is to be a lawyer specialising in conservation.
“I feel like we are losing Africa’s wild places. The wilderness and the animals need saving. I like taking photographs because it helps people see things the way I see them. I loved learning about the camera beyond the auto button.”

Leopard relaxing in the bush — Photo credit: Faith Khosa © Wild Shots Outreach

LUCKY RAPITSI
Lucky took part in the Wild Shots Outreach course in May 2016. Lucky, who is 26 years old, now works as a photojournalist at the local newspaper in Hoedspruit. He also assists with residential Wild Shots Outreach courses.
“Wild Shots Outreach changed my life. I didn’t know how to operate a camera before, and I knew nothing about conservation. I have always had the ambition of educating the youth about what is happening around South Africa and through Wild Shots Outreach, I was able to realise my dream. From my experience, I now know that the animals we have are our heritage and that they will provide jobs for our youth in the future.”

Photo of the inside of a cut off piece of rhino horn — Photo credit: Lucky Rapitsi © Wild Shots Outreach

Positive experiences

Through the experience of the Wild Shots Outreach programme, the students can better appreciate and understand the value of wildlife and the wilderness of the national parks and reserves. Even though they live just a few kilometres from the Greater Kruger, many of them have never stepped inside the reserve nor seen a wild animal before going on the course. Just from looking at their photos and reading their comments, it is clear that the programme has had a positive impact on their lives.

PRINCES NYATHI
Princes is 12 years old. She took part in a residential Wild Shots Outreach course for the children of staff from Umlani Bush Camp in the Timbavati. Her mother works in the kitchen at the lodge, but Princes had never been on a game drive before her Wild Shots Outreach course. “Conservation is the best because it can keep our wild animals safe. I want to share my photographs because my friends have not seen wild animals.”

Elephant having a dust bath — Photo credit: Princes Nyathi © Wild Shots Outreach

PROUD NDLOVU

Proud is a 16-year-old student in grade 11 at Phendulani High School, Acornhoek. This is the second year that a group from this school has taken the Wild Shots Outreach course.
“Going on the game drive is a dream come true. It doesn’t happen to kids like us. I never liked conservation before as it was just a theory and we never had a chance to experience it. Now I am starting to understand conservation.”

Three zebras in the bush — Photo credit: Proud Ndlovu © Wild Shots Outreach

RICKY TIBANE

Ricky is 15-years-old and in grade 10 at Pendulani High School, Acornhoek. His principal, Lorraine Kubayi is very keen for her learners to take the Wild Shots Outreach course. She feels that Wild Shots is developing confidence in her learners.
“I enjoyed all the Wild Shots lessons. Rhinos are my favourite animals because they are one of the Big 5 and they bring tourists to our country. I like photography because it makes the animal to be well known and makes nature even more beautiful.”

A herd of wildebeest — Photo credit: Ricky Tibane © Wild Shots Outreach

SARAH KHUMALO

At 17 years old, Sarah attended the Wild Shots Outreach course at NP Mathabela Secondary School in Greenvalley. This was the second year that Wild Shots have visited the school.
“I enjoyed the game drive because I could admire the animals and see them with my own eyes. Africa has the best wild places, and they attract tourists to our country. More young people need to be aware of conservation so that more can be involved.”

Small bird sitting on a branch — Photo credit: Sarah Khumalo © Wild Shots Outreach

Helping develop young aspirations

The programme helps to make students aware of their own unique abilities and that they have what it takes to acquire new skills and create stunning photos of wildlife and the natural world. By holding exhibitions and publishing their photographs, the students’ self-esteem and aspirations grow.

SIKHULILE NGWENYA

Sikhulile is 17 years old and in grade 11 at Frank Magkinyane High School, Ludlow.
“I enjoyed taking pictures and using the camera properly, such as changing the ISO. I am really happy about conservation so long as the future generations get to see the wild animals. I wish many more children could do the Wild Shots Outreach course and explore their talent.”

A bird soaring through the air — Photo credit: Sikhulile Ngwenya © Wild Shots Outreach

THAROLLO SHAI

Tharollo is 16 years old and took part in a Wild Shots Outreach course with her friends from Relebogile School in Namagale, near Phalaborwa. Sefapane Lodges and Safaris hosted the course.
“I enjoyed learning to freeze the action most. I want a career in conservation when I finish school. I feel unhappy because some of our animals are living in unsafe places.”

Two birds sitting in a tree and one flying through the air — Photo credit: Tharollo Shai © Wild Shots Outreach

VAN ROOY SONDLANE

Van Rooy is 26 years old and works as an art assistant with the Seeds of Light NGO. He was part of a group of young leaders from the Acornhoek community chosen for a specially designed Wild Shots Outreach course.
“I want to use my photography to send out a message. All people must be aware of our wildlife and conservation. I am going to use photography in my art and my art teaching.”

An impala jumping through the air — Photo credit: Van Rooy Sondlane © Wild Shots Outreach

VUSI MATHE

Vusi is 18 years old and took the Wild Shots Outreach course at Madizi High School. They did their game drive in Sabi Sands and were featured in a video made by Beautiful News. His group attended the Wild Shots Wildlife Photography conference in Cape Town in September 2017.
“The best thing was the game drive, but I loved learning to use the camera. We have to conserve our wildlife for future generations. I want to work for Wild Shots one day.”

A close up of an elephant. — Photo credit: Vusi Mathe © Wild Shots Outreach

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Mike Kendrick is the founder and director of Wild Shots Outreach. Mike is an experienced senior leader in education, teacher of Life Sciences and Photography, and outreach specialist. He has run 32 courses with 291 graduates since starting the programme in late 2015.
He is a published photographer at international and national level. Publications include Africa Geographic, Travel Africa, Wanderlust, Hello magazine, Beeld and Wild magazine. He is the photographer of choice for NGOs such as Elephants Alive, Conservation Action Trust, Cheetah Outreach and Birdlife International SA and a photographic tutor for guide training agencies such as Bushwise.
Wild Shots Outreach recently won the SANParks Kudu Award for the best environmental education programme.
If you would like to contact Mike, you can reach him via email, mkmikekendrick@gmail.com or you can contact him on 072 281 3157.

Opinion: Elephants damage only 1% of Hwange’s vegetation

Elephant in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe — © joepyrek/Flickr

Opinion post: Written by Bryan Orford

The main motivation put forward for killing elephants in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe is the argument that they destroy the plants, and this is accepted by many as a problem. Let’s discuss whether this argument has any validity, and whether this argument for culling is really more about sourcing more ivory for the ivory trade, or to justify higher quotas for nearby hunting areas.

Actual damaged areas – waterholes

Let us look at the argument that pumped waterholes or permanent water is stimulating elephant damage of the parks vegetation in a ‘catastrophic’ manner, and that it is a man-made problem that now needs a man-made solution, and that culling is a necessity.

In Hwange there are a variety of habitats and vegetation types, with only a limited number of waterholes. In the dry season the elephants are normally found drinking at these, so there are huge areas of the park at this time with no elephants. So even if damage was done to areas with pumped water, the other areas have no problem.

Now let us look at the areas with pumped water. Some open areas near water are vlei lines, or calcrete soils, which would have few trees in any case – with pumped water or not, and with elephants or none. So one should not confuse these open areas with elephant damage. Now even if you do have elephant damage around a waterhole there can be benefits to grazing animals as grass grows better in open areas. Research in Hwange has found that soils near waterholes are heavily fertilised by elephants, and this benefits many smaller and unnoticed plants in the rainy season.

Normally a pan has a natural open area that has few trees, and only at a certain distance from there will you get the tree line. Damage to the tree line is dependent on the species, depth of soil and distance from the pan, but if you come back in say, 10 years, you will see almost the same picture you saw before.

Elephants drinking from waterhole in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe — © joepyrek/Flickr

So if we work on an average of 100 metres we can try and work out the zone of realistic damage, if there is any. In reality it would be a ring as there are few trees naturally occurring by the waterholes. In some cases if there is a vlei, the tree line may be so far that tree damage is not even an issue.

In some places, trees like camelthorns, mopanes and the combretum families can be heavily pruned, but seem to survive anyway – although to the uneducated person it might look bad.

So for just the rough calculations on the 14,600 sq km park, I will use 75 waterholes as an example, many of which have no tree damage.

Assuming a ring of 100m around each waterhole, this equates to an area of roughly 7,800 square meters for each waterhole. Times this by 75 we get 585,000 square meters (or 0.585 sq km). This equates to a very small figure of potential elephant damage. Even if we double that to one square kilometre, this equates to roughly 0.0068% of the park that might suffer tree damage from elephants.

So, to be sure you understand my calculation and logic, less than 1% of Hwange vegetation has been potentially damaged by elephants. And there are questions as to whether this is in fact damage, as there are benefits to the ecology of having highly trampled and impacted areas.

Endemic plants

Looking at the number of plant species stretching from Hwange up to the Victoria Falls, the last number I got was 1,334 species. Even the best botanist and guides know only a small portion of these, and you will notice much of the research on elephant damage is concentrated only on a couple of species of trees that are not even endangered inside or outside of Hwange. No one pays attention to the ecology of many of these other plants.

Someone might argue that there is a possibility that some plants might be endangered and that elephants are a threat to them. Well, let us look at endemic plants in the area (some may just be subspecies). These include Aristida brainii, Danthiopsis petiolata, Euphorbia fortissima, and Jamesbrittenia zambesica, all in the rocky gorges below Victoria Falls, far away from Hwange and in an area unlikely to be impacted by elephants.

There is a grass called Eragrostis glischra that is found in mopane woodland, rocky places and Kalahari sand in the north and west of Zimbabwe, and possibly in Hwange. Elephants are not a problem for this grass, and its range extends well out of the park and into areas closer towards Kariba. So we can see there are no endemic plants threatened by elephant numbers in Hwange and up to the Zambezi.

Elephant herd in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe — © joepyrek/Flickr

Biased research

Bearing in mind that elephants are large animals and many people who visit the park are not used to the sort of damage present in all bushveld ecosystems – they being more used to manicured gardens in their neighbourhoods. So broken / fallen trees and heavily pruned bushes can be a shock and appear to be a bigger problem than they really are. Most studies on elephant damage have concentrated on big tree species such as teak, mopane, combretums, marula and a few other trees near waterholes.

The damage measured is normally only measured close to waterholes and little work done miles away.

I still remember helping Zimparks years ago on a project which was basically titled “Elephant damage on teak trees”. Before the research was started the assumption had been made that the elephants were causing damage to the teak forests, and the research was intended to prove this. One soon saw that they did very little damage, and did not seem to favour these trees for food. So the elephants had a bad rap and the research was launched on a false assumption!

Some researchers have noted little change in the vegetation since the 1960s in Hwange and some areas seem to be more wooded than before. The elephant impact on trees helps stop bush fire damage, fertilises the soil, and spreads seeds etc. – so tree impact has its ecological benefits. A good example is the spread of camelthorn trees and ilala palms. A very interesting example of seed dispersal is a large albida tree at Ngamo, no doubt brought there from 20 plus or so kilometres away by elephants and the seeds germinating in elephant dung.

Conclusion

So in conclusion, in my opinion, elephants are not a problem for Hwange’s vegetation and this should not be used as an excuse for any culling in the park. I would also encourage those who visit Hwange to go not only in the dry season to see how well the areas around the waterholes recover during the rains, as dry season visits can give an unrealistic desert experience, in which the casual visitor can get a distorted view of the real situation on the ground.

I believe all those who push for the culling of elephants in Hwange should be punished with a 24-hour game count in February or in the rainy season and in their report list all the small plant species that are around the waterhole. Hopefully, they won’t die of boredom or sleep due to there being no elephants around at that time of year!

Two elephants in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe — © joepyrek/Flickr

Wild dogs vote with sneezes

Research has revealed that the decision by a group of African wild dogs to get up from rest and hit the road to hunt as a collective pack is a democratic one, albeit with a twist. Votes are cast by way of sneezes.

Yes, those dogs that wish to participate in the vote do so by sneezing, and, just like in company meetings, once a certain number (quorum) of votes has been reached (sneezes made) the pack will obey the results of the vote and move on.

But that’s not all….

It appears that higher ranking members of the pack have to sneeze less often in order to achieve quorum.

So, for example, a high-ranking pack member may have to sneeze just three times to achieve the same result as a lower ranked member that may have to sneeze 10 times.

This is a form of democracy, modified to reflect rank. Persistent lower ranking dogs can achieve the desired results if they are persistent, and sneeze often enough. As such, the ‘will of the group’ may override dominant preferences when the consensus of subordinates is sufficiently great.

Wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) are among the most ruthless and efficient of hunters, achieving excellent success rates because of high levels of cooperation amongst pack members. They also have one of the most peaceful of pack dynamics, with a dominant (alpha) female and male governing reproduction and other pack members assisting to keep babies safe and fed.

African wild dog with prey — © Dr Andrew King, Swansea University

The use of voting mechanisms is seen in several other species, including meerkats, capuchin monkeys, and honeybees. The exhalation of air to communicate is also seen in dingoes and coyotes, but it appears that wild dogs are the only dogs to use ‘sneeze voting’ in decision making.

The research was conducted in Botswana’s Okavango Delta by Reena H. Walker and her colleagues from the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust, and the Universities of Swansea, UK, New South Wales, Australia and Brown University, US.

The full report: The Royal Society, Reena H. Walker, Andrew J. King, J. Weldon McNutt, Neil R. Jordan: “Sneeze to leave: African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) use variable quorum thresholds facilitated by sneezes in collective decisions”

Macro photography: Up close & personal

How often can you say that to take photographs of your subjects you have to lie down on the ground? Well, how else would you be able to get a ground-level perspective of the life of an ant, or peer in close to fully appreciate the form of a spider? Most people don’t. We walk past and step over these creatures without a second thought of the incredible and alien-like world all around us.

Macro photography is an essential part of wildlife photography, shining a spotlight on the smaller lifeforms that are not only essential to our ecosystem but, quite simply, are downright incredible to photograph! Whether a beginner or a seasoned professional, here are some tips and pointers to ensure that you get the best results from your macro photography.

Colours tend to be all the more vibrant and vivid when you get in closer to this African assassin bug © Sam Cox

SPEED
A good, sound rule: the smaller your subject is, the faster it will move. You can get away with low shutter speed for elephants, but with birds, you have to crank it up quite a bit more, and the same goes for the phenomenal insect kingdom.

Ants crawling across a tree branch might not seem fast at first, but when you get in close, your perspective changes and trying to capture one in sharp focus can be very tricky. Throw your lens in front of dragonflies, bees or grasshoppers, and again, you need to be quick with your reactions and have a very high shutter speed to freeze the moment. Of course, this requires a good amount of light, which takes us nicely to the next point…

A termite standing on a mound — Termites, a real challenge to photograph, but well worth the effort © Sam Cox

LIGHT
Light is your best friend, though a simple spot of shade or wisp of cloud can dramatically alter your shot. Sunny days are ideal because insects tend to be more active in the heat, and you can maintain optimal camera settings.

However, always keep an eye out for incoming clouds and shadows – in particular, your own or of others that will cast a shadow over your subject. Flash rings are great for still life, but natural lighting for wildlife is infinitely preferred so as not to flatten your subject with an overabundance of a front-facing light source.

Clockwise from top left: 1) *Aiming high on a bright sunny day*; 2) *Details and personality, even from something as seemingly insignificant as an ant, can change perspectives*; 3) *A dice moth caterpillar covered in sand and grit from a mornings’ travels* © Sam Cox

FLEXIBILITY
Tripods or monopods are fantastic for stabilising your camera, but when it comes to wildlife, forget about it. You need to be flexible and quick! A butterfly isn’t going to sit waiting for you to adjust your tripod legs, so you need to practise holding your camera steady, getting into comfortable positions quickly and controlling your breathing. Composure, patience and plenty of practice is the trick.

A close up of a bee flying — Caught in flight © Sam Cox

APERTURE
Most people, when starting macro photography, jump straight to their shallowest depth of field, an f2.8 or f1.4, but this is unnecessary and can become a hindrance. First and foremost, that shallow depth of field, when used so close, will often slice your subject into three sections with the plane of focus being minuscule.

You want to show off the subject in its entirety and not just a segment, so instead try an f8 or even an f16 to give a broader depth of field to your photography.
Your background is often so far away comparatively that it will remain nicely blurred, but it means you’ll get more of your subject in focus and allows more breathing room if it is moving. Of course, this once again links into the lighting of the scene: the lighter, the better.

Clockwise from top left: 1) *A female golden orb spider devours her male, who says romance is dead?*; 2) *A nomadic ant marches to a dead end*; 3) *Crawling upwards with the morning rays streaking down*; 4) *A green pea spider beginning to stretch out amidst a morning chill ©* Sam Cox

PERSPECTIVE
This is the one crucial point that I’m adamant about getting across to any photographer I’m teaching macro to.

When photographing a lion, would you photograph it from above at a 45-degree angle? Of course not, you’d want to get in front of it and be as low as possible to give it a powerful and grandiose appearance – and the same applies here.

Shooting something from above can make it seem inferior, and this is the opposite of what we want to do. So getting down to ground- or eye-level is always preferential.

A sensational, intimate close up of a dragonfly — A sensational, intimate close-up of a dragonfly © Sam Cox

NOT JUST FOR WILDLIFE…
Macro photography, beyond wildlife, is a great way to explore and represent other subjects. Dewdrops clinging to spider webs, the texture of tree bark, or the vein structures of a backlit leaf can result in absolutely stunning photographs.

Commercially speaking, the details of a wedding dress or engravings on engagement rings are always better represented through the medium of macro, blurring out the unnecessary background and bringing out the artistry.

Whether you live out in the African bush or a bustling city, there are opportunities everywhere for interesting and versatile photographs. The great thing about today’s digital technology is that you don’t even need a special camera or lens to get involved – most cameras on phones have an impressive ability to focus on subjects up close and personal.

It’s all down to how you use it, but remember, by getting down and dirty, you’ll raise the love for all things often ignored.

Dew drops on a spider's web — Dewdrops caught in a spider’s web, glinting in the morning sun © Sam Cox

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Sam Cox originally studied filmmaking, earning a BA Honours degree in filmmaking before moving his sights onto photography. Travelling to Africa since 1999, his passion for wildlife quickly drew him to focus on photographing the diverse wildlife the continent has to offer and has seen his images published online with National Geographic and Africa Geographic, with printed publications in Travel Africa Magazine and BBC Wildlife Magazine.
Wanting to put aside work photographing weddings and events in the UK for a life and career in Africa, he dipped his toes into the water by volunteering with African Impact in Zimbabwe and South Africa – using his camera skills to aid in conservation efforts. Since then, he has joined the team at African Impact in the Greater Kruger National Park as the Photography Coordinator, teaching wildlife photography to international volunteers while also contributing to conservation and local community-based projects.

Japan’s ivory market must close down, according to study

Ivory products for sale in Japan — Elephant ivory figurines, chopsticks and jewellery for sale in Japan © TRAFFIC

Japan’s poorly regulated domestic ivory market and efficient transnational criminal networks are among the factors driving the illegal export of ivory products to other countries. Due to this continued absence of effective regulation and law enforcement, two major conservation groups are calling for the closure of Japan’s domestic ivory market – in accordance with CITES.

In a report released on Wednesday by TRAFFIC and WWF, researches found that ivory products have become increasingly popular among antique and tourist markets where unregistered ivory is bought for illegal exports.

With China announcing that it would shut down all ivory trade by the end of this year, concerns have been raised that Japan’s failure to prevent illegal ivory exports will undermine China’s prospective ban and the efforts to end the global trafficking of elephant tusks.

Surveys were conducted in physical ivory markets, and physical and online auction platforms between May and September 2017, while antique dealers as buyers of privately owned ivory were also interviewed during the same period.

Between 2011 and 2016, a total of 2.42 tonnes of ivory was illegally exported from Japan, most of which was intercepted going to China.

Seized elephant ivory — Ivory tusks seized in a June 2017 case of illegal domestic trade of unregistered ivory tusks by an antiques dealer © Tokyo Metropolitan Police / TRAFFIC

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) bans the international trade in ivory to protect endangered African elephants and has called for the closure of domestic ivory markets in all member states.

Japan, however, says ivory products traded domestically were not acquired illegally. The government has approved a proposal this year to tighten registration requirements and inspections for more than 8,000 ivory retailers and manufacturers in the country. However, many campaigners feel that this is inadequate and that stricter measures should be put in place.

“Our findings show that without doubt, Japan’s largely unregulated domestic ivory market is contributing to illegal trade – a condition considered by Parties to CITES to warrant much stricter regulation and even the closure of the market,” said Tomomi Kitade, one of the authors of the report.

“It is imperative that Japan’s role within international illegal ivory trade be recognised, and urgent steps are taken to address the on-going illegal export and the regulatory gaps that are facilitating such criminal activity,” he added.

Online sites, such as Yahoo! Japan, are one of the major contributors in the purchasing of worked ivory products, with a recent seizure made by China’s Customs authority in 2016 involving 1,639 pieces of worked ivory and carved tusks.

With this substantial evidence, the report has urged the Japanese government to raise public awareness about the controls on illegal ivory and to tighten up on the controls at customs to prevent items such as ivory hanko stamps and figurines from leaving the country. It goes on to say that with China shutting down its legal ivory trade on 31st December, Japan and other key countries should follow suit.

Harmless aardwolf killed: The need for education

Deceased aardwolf in the Maasai Steppe, Kenya — This aardwolf was killed after being mistaken for a striped hyena © Stephanie Fuchs

Comment from the editors: For the Maasai people, cattle are considered extremely valuable and form an intrinsic part of their daily lives. Their cattle are at the centre of everything, providing them with food and materials, as well as playing an important role in their rituals and representing their wealth and status. For those of us living in urban areas, it is important to understand the Maasai culture, where the need to protect and care for their cattle is paramount. Stephanie, who is married to a Maasai warrior, recently shared with us her own unique insight and thoughts about how the Maasai protect their cattle. In this post she tells us about the problems these rural farmers face with predators that kill their cattle:

Maasai steppe landscape, wildlife — The calves were killed where the photograph was taken, while the burrow of the suspected hyena was not too far away (where the Maasai warrior is standing) © Stephanie Fuchs

Written by Stephanie Fuchs

I have lived with the Maasai now for six years and have in that time witnessed several incidents of human-animal conflict.

Most of the time it is lone hyenas that break into the goat pen at night and kill and injure at random. They did so at our boma in January 2016 – two sheep were half-eaten and two others injured so badly that we had to put them out of their misery. A third sheep got away with just a bitten tail.

On another occasion, we had a leopard kill livestock, and just recently what is believed to be wild dogs attacked several goats while they were out browsing in the afternoon. And on the morning of November 19th, 2017, my husband woke me with news of two calves having been eaten by hyenas the night before at our local waterhole.

I am recounting here what I have gathered happened on that evening, after questioning my husband and other Maasai and after visiting the site.

I was told that two hyenas killed two calves that were separated from their herd while out grazing in the afternoon. A farmer who lives close to the waterhole heard the cattle scream and alerted a Maasai warrior by phone about the attack by what he thought to be hyenas. Two warriors came running, but by the time they got to the scene, the calves were dead. They heard two hyenas calling from a distance and what they believed to be a third hyena that took flight as they approached. When they gave chase, the animal fled into a nearby burrow.

The Maasai warriors, being fiercely protective of their cattle and not willing to let what they thought had killed their livelihood go unharmed, started digging up the burrow. They dug until the early hours of the morning and eventually, the animal (thought to be a hyena) fled from the safety of the burrow – and was unfortunately killed.

Aardwolf burrow, Maasai steppe landscape, wildlife — The burrow was dug up by the warriors who were after what they believed it to be a striped hyena © Stephanie Fuchs

On being shown the scene and dead animal, I confirmed that the warriors had not killed a hyena, but an aardwolf.

To the untrained eye aardwolfs and hyenas may look similar, and yet aardwolfs are insectivorous and not capable of killing cattle – they don’t have the right jaw structure for the job. The regrettable truth is that this aardwolf was killed for a crime it did not commit.

This unfortunate incident shines a light on the fact that rural communities living amongst wildlife require wildlife education. The Maasai frequently encounter wildlife while herding their livestock and have in this way attained a traditional knowledge about it. An animal like the aardwolf, however, shy and nocturnal as it is, will not have often crossed paths with them, and if it did, it would have been mistaken – as in this incident – for a striped hyena. They have no means of knowing that an animal so similar in looks to one that frequently kills their livestock, only eats termites.

The world of the Maasai is changing at an alarming rate and with this they have come to understand that there is a need to adapt. Some of their traditions are these days left behind, yet others are harder to let go of. From my observations, I gather that there is confusion over what to hold on to and what to let go.

Retaliation for the loss of a goat or cow is ingrained in their culture – and yet I believe that their attitude towards wildlife is changing. They see that wildlife has become rare, as have attacks on their animals, and they are now shifting towards wanting to protect what is left.

I try whenever I can to influence them towards taking better care of their land and all living things within it. This is why I have created a campaign where I aim to educate a Maasai community in Tanzania about conservation and land management to inspire them to look after their land. By doing so, I hope to help them preserve their culture and the wilderness they live in.

To achieve these goals, I would like for four Maasai from our village (two chosen by me and two by the village) and myself to be trained in land management and sustainable grazing at the Mara Training Centre in Kenya. Any donation to our campaign will help us to get one step closer to achieve this goal.

Showing the difference between an aardwolf and striped hyena — An aardwolf (left) and a striped hyena (right) © Dominik Käuferle / Shamshad Alam

Pangolin trafficking: Research reveals new routes

African pangolin — Known as the world’s most trafficked mammal, all eight (four Asian and four African) species of pangolins are prohibited from international trade under CITES © Christian Boix

A recent study has revealed that pangolin smugglers are constantly opening up new global trade routes every year to avoid law enforcement agencies.

In light of the recent, world’s largest, pangolin seizure where 11.9 tonnes of scales were confiscated from a ship in Shenzhen, China, the new research highlights the challenge of tackling the trade of the world’s most trafficked mammal.

Released by the wildlife trade monitoring group TRAFFIC and IUCN on Friday, the comprehensive analysis reveals that an average of 20 tonnes of pangolins and their parts have been trafficked internationally every year, with the smugglers using 27 new routes for their illegal trade every year. Smuggling networks have become highly mobile and adaptable to shifting and creating new routes.

All eight pangolin species (four Asian and four African) are prohibited from international trade under CITES. However, this has not stopped the poaching of this mammal where, between 2010 and 2015, a combined minimum of 120 tonnes of whole pangolins, parts and scales were confiscated by law enforcement agencies involved with cross-border seizures.

“This paints a grave picture of a phenomenal quantity of pangolins being trafficked and very nimble traffickers who adapt fast, likely in response to enforcement actions,” said Kanitha Krishnasamy, Acting Regional Director for TRAFFIC in Southeast Asia. “It shows traders are indiscriminate about the new routes they choose and any legitimate means of transport is fair game for them to exploit.”

The findings show that 67 countries/territories were implicated with the recorded 1,270 cross-border pangolin seizures.

China was the most common destination in terms of large-quantity shipments of pangolin scales while whole pangolins were mostly traded within Asia, with Indonesia seizing the largest volume during the six-year period of the analysis. Minor shipments of pangolin body parts mainly went to the U.S., however, the quantities entering the U.S. were not comparable to the massive shipments trafficked through Africa and Asia.

“This report highlights again the alarming global nature of trafficking in pangolins and their parts, and is particularly concerning because it shows that trafficking takes place through highly mobile networks that use shifting trade routes,” says Daniel Challender, Chair of the IUCN SSC Pangolin Specialist Group and an author of the report. “Concerted action is needed along the entire trafficking routes identified to ensure illegal trade no longer poses a threat to pangolin populations.”

The report urged all countries implicated to review laws and increase vigilance of pangolin trafficking, in particular those countries with low numbers of seizures, but implicated in many trafficking incidents.

The full report: TRAFFIC, S. Heinrich, T. A. Wittman, J. V. Ross, C. R. Shepherd, D. W.S. Challender, P. Cassey: “The global trafficking of pangolins: A comprehensive summary of seizures and
trafficking routes from 2010–2015”

Riding in lion country

Equestrian types tend to come with a few traits that, while charming to fellow horsey folk, are unbearably irritating to those not of a horsey nature. One such quirk is the devout belief that having ridden one way, you probably know – better than most – how to ride another. We also have an unwavering belief that we know exactly what to expect from most types of rides, regardless of whether or not we’ve participated.

Indeed, that was the case for me. I’ve ridden since the age of two when I was plonked onto the back of an obliging Shetland pony. Since then I’ve ridden eventers, dressage divas, highly-strung showjumpers, focused polo ponies, and wild ex-racehorses. So, when the opportunity arose to go on a horse safari in Botswana, I knew exactly what to expect (not because I’d ever done one before of course, but because I’m a horse person).

A group of people riding on horseback — Riding deep into lion country in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park in Botswana © Roger Turski

I thought we’d be riding around safe game only – meerkats would probably be the only carnivores we’d encounter; the horses would be dead to the leg, gone to the world, and know exactly where to walk, where to stop, and where to trot (if indeed such speed was allowed). I also knew jolly well that this was to be a glorified trail ride – a bit boring perhaps, but an excellent opportunity for those all-important insta-snaps and an experience to supplement future conversations.

Or, so I thought.

Being a horse person, I insisted on taking my own gear: a lightweight ventilated helmet, jods, chaps, riding boots, gloves, and even a GoPro. My husband (himself a very experienced safari-goer and former guide) raised his eyebrows further north with each pristine piece of clothing I produced and folded carefully into my canvas bag. I should point out at this stage that our luggage allowance was minimal, but he knows better than to argue with a horse person. I could not have felt more ready for my impending horseback safari… I was not ready.

Watching lions from a safari vehicle — Here be lions, which adds a degree of edge to your horse ride! © Uncharted Africa

The evening before my ride we went on a game drive through Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, and amongst the abundance of wildlife we saw lions. As we sat and watched the sun set behind a huge male, his lady friend began to call.

“She’s calling to her mother,” our guide explained.

“Where is her mother?” I asked.

“Somewhere on the other side of the pans,” came the relaxed response as we watched the golden cat slink off towards the pans.

As we pulled up for our evening drinks a short while later, our guide checked carefully that neither lion was tucked behind the foliage nearby before releasing us from the vehicle. Still, in the haze of wine and excited lion chatter, we thought little more of it.

Sitting on horseback watching the sunrise — Setting off on the day’s horse safari at dawn © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

Horse safari day dawned with the pastel-infused skies that only Botswana can produce. We were travelling with our young daughter, so lengthy rides were off the table for me; I’d signed up instead for a sunset ride that evening.

We spent the morning on another drive, during which we enquired about the whereabouts of the lions we’d seen the previous night. Our guide wasn’t sure exactly where they were since they’re nocturnal and had moved overnight, but there was plenty more wildlife for us to see – happy hours were spent watching elephants feed on and destroy the trees at the edges of the pans.

Aren’t there lions out here?

When the time came for my ride, we were driven through an electric gate and up a drive to where the horses lived. I saw a smile play on the lips of the horse guide as he watched me hop from the 4×4 vehicle, GoPro strapped to the top of my helmet like evolution’s most dastardly attempt at an antenna.

Consummately professional though, he greeted me without so much as a snigger, and introduced me to my mount – a chestnut named Socks.

Woman sitting on a horse preparing for a ride — My trusty steed for the journey – Socks the chestnut © Pru Allison

I felt rather smug to see that Socks looked every inch the trail horse, standing calmly as his girth was tightened, and not batting an eye at the strange contraption protruding from my head. I was busy congratulating myself on my correct intuitions about the ride when I realised that my guide, Levius, was heading for the gate through which we’d driven.

Without a moment’s hesitation, he rode into the park where we’d watched lions the night before, and where that very morning, our guide had been unable to confirm their location. I’d imagined a sedate amble behind the safety of the game fence, and now here we were, riding straight into lion country.

Suddenly, aware that I genuinely had no idea what to expect from the ride, I noticed a chunk missing from Socks’ ear; as we rode deeper into the reserve, it began to look increasingly jaw-shaped.

“Aren’t there lions out here?” I eventually squeaked, hoping I didn’t sound too terrified.

“Yes, there are,” came the cool response. “That’s why I have my banger.”

I glanced down to Levius’ hip, attached to which was a small, almost gun-like contraption.

“It makes a loud firing noise that frightens lions away,” he reassured me. “But the horses know when there are lions. They smell them, and they won’t want to go that way.”

Riding through the grassy plains of Makgadikgadi with Levius, my guide © Pru Allison

I furtively scanned the horizon to ensure that we would spot the big cats with plenty of time for Levius’ banger to be deployed, should the need arise. If there were lions around, Socks had yet to smell them.

I’ve ridden many horses, and in my experience, most find plastic bags more terrifying than genuine danger. I desperately hoped that Socks’ intuition was more finely tuned. I felt confident that Levius had the faster mount, so if a lion did give chase dear old Socks and I were surely supper.

A lion standing in the grasslands — Looking out for lions in lion country © Pru Allison

Levius, it turned out, hailed from a small village in Botswana and now guides for a company called Ride Botswana who operate between the Uncharted Africa camps here in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, and routes through the Okavango Delta. He’d never been interested in horses until David Foot (the owner of Ride Botswana and safari guide) took him under his wing and taught him how to ride and how to guide. Still, he’s now every inch the horse person, with leather gaiters perfectly tailored to fit, and gloves that made me decide to upgrade my own.

To read more about the safari guide on horseback, continue reading below the advert

He’s also nothing that I’d expected a trail guide to be because he isn’t. He’s a safari guide who happens to do the job on horseback. There was none of the boredom I’d encountered on treks through the Welsh hills on family holidays. Levius loved his job, his horses, the area; he rode beautifully despite likening his style to that of a cowboy. His mount was a former racehorse intriguingly named Bon Jovi, and with plenty of spirit (horse person speak for ‘you’ll probably fall off’), but instead of pulling and hauling the thoroughbred, his hands remained soft and gentle – showing balance, kindness and confidence that many a more experienced rider lacks.

Riding on horseback across the salt pans — Levius, my guide, showed a rare breed of balance, kindness and confidence © Pru Allison

“Do you ever worry about lions coming for the horses during the night?” I queried, unable to shake the big cats from my mind.

“I sleep with my tent open so that I can hear,” he answered. “They are my babies, and I have to take care of them.”

Despite the dedicated care and commitment that Levius showers upon his steeds, he’ll admit to a close call where lions are concerned, telling me that he’d come out of his tent to check on the horses one night only to find a lion playing with a piece of tarpaulin. He assures me that his trusty banger did its job, seeing off the enormous cat, but it’s not an experience he’s keen to repeat.

People on horseback looking a large herd of zebra — Makgadikgadi plays host to the second largest zebra migration in the world, as thousands of zebras move into the area after the first summer rains to feed on sweet summer grasses © Roger Turski

“You know, we did see lions here last night,” I offered, concerned that he might not have realised they were in the area.

“Where were they?” he asked.

“Well, I’m not exactly sure, but one was under a palm tree,” I offered.

Levius’ face cracked almost open with a wicked grin as he gestured towards the landscape, which is punctuated every few metres by palm trees. It wasn’t, I suppose, a particularly helpful landmark to offer.

After some time riding through the grasslands, we came to the pans. The Makgadikgadi salt pans are the world’s most extensive salt pan system, and quite a sight to behold. Despite having ridden through the sea, river, woodland, countryside and much more, to ride across the pans was incomparable.

Riding across the Makgadikgadi Pans – an incomparable experience © Garth Thompson

Animals, grassland and the moon

The vast, silent landscape could very well be likened to standing alone at the top of a ski slope and is almost exactly how I imagine it might be to stand on the surface of the moon. This was unlike any trail I’d ever ridden, and Levius dispelled my expectations once more by suggesting we pick up the pace. As we progressed through the horses’ gears, I saw Bon Jovi starting to get excited, but his gentle rider was unfazed, expertly guiding his mount instead of fighting him.

Socks, meanwhile, was also surprising me with his turn of speed and love of life, waiting for commands rather than merely following the horse in front, and offering a keenness rarely seen on trails and treks.

Riding across the grassy plains of the Makgadikgadi savannah © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

We reached the edge of the pans and slowed back to a walk as we proceeded through the grasslands; the guide and horses were fit enough to hit their strides straight away, while I did my best to conceal my lack of fitness. Taking pity on me, Levius paused alongside an aardvark hole, and kindly took his time to explain how they get utilised by a variety of different species.

Feeling fine, we continued through the grasslands, chatting as the sun began to sink through the sky, painting the horizon with strobes of orange and pink.

Through the splashes of colour and dust, we began to make out the shapes of wildebeest and zebra, making their way to congregate in the safety of the open for the night.

**Above collage:** *Makgadikgadi attracts a variety of wildlife species, including elephants, leopards, brown hyenas, zebras and wildebeests (*© Uncharted Africa)

We rode towards the animals, and I was waiting for them to scatter, but they didn’t, and before long, we were almost upon them.

“They don’t worry about the horses,” explained Levius. “We can get much closer to them like this than in a vehicle.” So we were able to spend time with both species, watching their interactions and dynamics. While they were aware of our presence, they didn’t seem to mind it one bit, and it felt a wonderfully unobtrusive way to be around them.

Eventually, with the light fading, we left this intriguing mixed herd who’d welcomed us to join them and turned back towards the camp, taking advantage of a dirt track along which we could enjoy a final canter, the horses even faster in the direction of home. In a flurry of hot African dust, we reached the game drive vehicle in which my husband and daughter sat, waiting to meet us with drinks and an array of snacks. The car seemed so cumbersome after my adventure with Socks.

“What would have happened if we’d met a lion?” I felt suddenly brave enough to ask, now that the vehicle was within hopping distance.

“I’d have stood in front of it until it went away,” explained Levius.

“What if it didn’t go away?” I pressed.

“Then I’d have stood there for a very long time,” he smiled.

Riding across the magnificent salt pans — Riding across the pans is as close as you’ll get to riding on the moon © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

The final horse straw

There remained one final question that I was reluctant to ask though, all too aware that when horses are business, the answer is rarely kind. “What happens to the horses when they can’t be used for safaris anymore?” I grudgingly enquired.

“They go to rest,” replies Levius, but he looked confused when my face fell. Understanding my dire assumption, my guide reassured me, “there’s a mare in Maun who’s in her thirties. She’s worked hard, so now she relaxes.”

My heart sang. I bade Socks farewell, seeing this brave, sweet horse in a new light as the horizon flashed its kaleidoscope of colours behind him. Gone was the trail horse I’d first imagined him to be. This Socks was brave, independent and capable of negotiating lion country with only a nicked ear.

To read more about the final leg of this horse riding safari, continue reading below the advert

A group of people riding on horseback across the salt pans — Riding back to camp, like a posse back from the wild west © Garth Thompson

As we watched Levius ride and lead the duo back to the safety of camp, I caught sight of a cat-shaped piece of gold in the distance.

“Lion!” I shrieked, at which my husband and our safari guide chortled in unison: “That’s a termite mound.”

I never did find out whether Socks’ ear was bitten by a lion, and I know that Levius would never have allowed such a thing to happen. Still, when I tell the story around dinner tables to fellow horse people, the ear was bitten fully off before brave Socks fought his way to freedom, or at the very least, a happy retirement in Maun.

As for the lions, I didn’t see them again, but I’m pretty darn sure that they were watching us for every step of the ride.

**Clockwise from left:** *Large baobabs characteristic of Makgadikgadi*; *A walking safari through the pans*; *Elephants at a waterhole during the rainy season* (© Uncharted Africa)

Makgadikgadi Pans info

SIZE
Makgadikgadi Pans is a 16,000 km² network of natural salt pans and surrounding Kalahari Basin bushveld in Botswana. Together, these pans comprise one of the largest salt pan ecosystems in the world – with the Sowa, Nxai and Nwetwe pans being the largest individual pans.

The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park (3,900 km²) and Nxai Pan National Park (1,700 km²) together cover one-third of the Makgadikgadi Pans area. The two primary sources of seasonal water to the pans are the Boteti and Nata rivers.

HISTORY
The pans are the dried-up lake bed of the ancient Lake Makgadikgadi that once submerged the entire area. Human habitation is evident here since the early Stone age, and the area is rich in archaeological history, displaying tools and other remnants of early man.

Chapman’s Baobab, an iconic landmark of the Makgadikgadi landscape that has stood the test of time for nearly 4000 years, was made famous after a Makgadikgadi crossing by celebrated explored Dr David Livingstone in the 19th century. Unfortunately, the giant tree crashed to the ground on 7th January 2016 but is still regarded as an impressive sight. Other noteworthy icons are the rocky Kubu Island in Sua Pan and Baines baobabs in Nxai Pan.

FLORA
The salt pans themselves cannot support major plant life, and the only flora here is comprised of a very thin layer of blue-green algae. However, the dry salt pans are surrounded by salt marshes, grassland and shrubby savannah.

WILDLIFE
During the dry winter months, most wildlife will be found to the west of the Makgadikgadi Pans, near the Boteti River. After the first rains in November, the second largest zebra migration in Africa occurs as zebras and wildebeest move in an easterly direction, to the grassy areas north of the pans. Other large species found in the area include oryx, springbok, eland, red hartebeest, giraffes, elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas, white rhinos and wild dogs.

The pans attract large numbers of waterfowl when full of water, and are an essential habitat for one of only two breeding populations of greater flamingos in southern Africa.

Witnessing the largest migration of animals in Southern Africa © Uncharted Africa

SEASONS
Makgadikgadi sees a tremendous environmental and landscape change between the seasons. In the drier months, between April and November, the landscape is dry and arid with little life. During the rainy season, between November and March, the landscape is transformed into a thriving paradise for both flora and fauna.

TRAVEL

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

The pans themselves are only accessible in the drier months. This attraction alone makes the months between April and November a more popular time to travel. However, January through March is popular as well – to witness the second largest migration of animals in Africa on the grassy plains north of the pans.

Pru’s Makgadikgadi Pans Accommodation

Camp Kalahari is a traditional safari camp on the fringes of the Makgadikgadi Pans. It is designed in the old, Meru-style of safari camps reminiscent of the pioneer explorers of the African continent. The camp has ten of these spacious, luxurious tents and is the perfect place to relax, unwind and cool off after a day exploring the hot and sweltering pans.

Activities here include bushwalking with local Bushmen, a visit to the famously fallen Chapman’s Baobab, and safaris to witness the last-surviving migration of animals in southern Africa.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Originally from England, Pru Allison first completed a degree in theatre before furthering her studies in animal behaviour. This proved a winning combination for the spectacle of the natural world when love brought her to Africa and a new home in Cape Town.
She’s written for a range of magazines in a variety of countries, and wildlife highlights so far include sitting with baby brown hyenas in their den in Namibia, meeting giant tortoises in Seychelles, finding snow leopards in the Himalayas, and following wolves in India.
Pru has ridden horses since the age of two, and can currently be found scouring tack shops for a helmet small enough to fit her baby daughter so she too can saddle up. You can follow her on her Instagram account.

New hunting association formed after outcry over captive-bred lion hunting

Sourced from third-party site: News24, written by Simon Bloch

A new association, representing the interests of professional hunters opposed to hunting captive-bred lions, has been formed in South Africa.

Former Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (Phasa) president Stewart Dorrington was elected as the body’s first chairperson.

Dorrington told News24 the mandate of the Custodians of Professional Hunting and Conservation South Africa (CPHCSA) was to “promote only ethical and responsible conservation-based hunting principles, such as hunting only under fair chase conditions”.

The formation of the new body followed an urgent meeting in Johannesburg on Wednesday, attended by some of the top guns in South African hunting circles.

It comes less than two weeks after constitutional and policy changes of PHASA (Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa) sent shock waves throughout the industry.

At its annual general meeting, PHASA members voted to reverse the body’s 2015 resolution and policy, which opposed promoting the hunting of captive-raised lions.

Following the decision, PHASA members, including seven past presidents, resigned en masse, with sponsors and internationally-recognised hunting organisations voicing their strong disapproval.

Several affiliate hunting bodies, including the Operators and Professional Hunting Associations of South Africa, the Namibia Professional Hunting Association, Boone and Crockett Club, and the Nordic Safari Club, immediately stripped PHASA of its membership status on the continent and abroad.

There had also been a growing number of outfitters and professional hunters who have brought the South African hunting industry into disrepute.

“The decision to form the CPHCSA was necessitated by PHASA’s unpopular decision last month. Fellow neighbouring countries’ associations, sponsors and many PHASA members voiced their disgust and condemnation of this inexplicable action,” Dorrington said.

“The launch of CPHCSA breathes new life into professional hunting and conservation, and we aim to restore the integrity of the vast majority of South African professional hunters,” he added.

Safari tips: safety and wild animals

Safari tips Tourists approaching a wild bull elephant at a campsite near Ngorongoro crater — Example of bad behaviour by tourists. © Yathin Krishnappa/WikiCommons

Going on a safari in Africa means that you will encounter wild animals at some stage. Some of these animals will be dangerous, and all deserve your respect.

Here are 10 essential safari tips about wild animals to keep in mind:

1) They are wild! These are not tame theme park animals, or Disney channel characters. Even a small doe-eyed antelope or cute warthog can and will attack you if it feels threatened;

2) Most safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the grounds, particularly at night;

3) Please listen to advice from camp staff and guides, and strictly adhere to safety precautions;

4) Don’t go wandering off on your own without a guide. Even walking to your room at night can be dangerous. Elephants and buffaloes are impossible to see after dark, even a few metres away. Don’t leave your room at night and avoid walking along river banks (crocodiles and hippos kill many people every year);

5) Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Talking loudly and standing up on game drive vehicles can frighten the animals away, or even trigger an attack;

6) Never attempt to attract an animal’s attention. Don’t imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects. Please respect your guide’s judgement about proximity to predators and large animals like elephants. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal. It can also trigger a charge;

7) Litter tossed on the ground, in addition to being unsightly, can choke or poison animals and birds;

8) Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. Lodges and campsites will suffer the consequences of your actions, as these animals then become accustomed to humans – leading to danger for all involved;

9) Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals and destroy vast areas of grazing;

10) Be especially wary of leaving young children unattended while on safari. Noisy children not only irritate other guests, but they also attract predators like leopards because their vocalisations sound like distress calls from prey animals. Young children are often unsteady on their feet or erratic in their movements, and this can trigger an attack from even small animals that would typically avoid humans. For these reasons, many lodges do not take young children on game drives or even allow them at the lodge. Read more info about kids on safari.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Africa Through My Eyes

Dr Vikram Ghanekar’s journey into the world of wildlife photography began almost a decade ago. His first venture into Africa took place in 2008, and he immediately learned a fundamental reality: you may have the best equipment, but you need to know how to use it properly.

Needless to say, after a few workshops and learning from Big Cat Diary presenters, Jonathan Scott and Jackson Looseiya, he has proved to be a highly-talented photographer. Read about his mobile safari experiences below, and enjoy his own exquisite photographs that are a testament to his phenomenal ability behind the lens.

Vikram Ghanekar and Morkel Erasmus — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Safari is one adventure where you meet like-minded people from across the world and forge friendships that last a lifetime. This photo was taken in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe with my friend and ace photographer Morkel Erasmus.

The magnificent Maasai Mara

Close up photo of a dwarf mongoose — © Vikram Ghanekar

“While on safari in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya, I was sitting on the ground just outside my tent on the banks of the Talek River. It was mid-afternoon, and everything was tranquil. I was taking in the view when I heard a rustling noise behind me. As I turned, a tiny head popped up from behind my camp chair. A dwarf mongoose! The mongoose was probably equally surprised to find me sitting there. But it was also curious and kept staring at me with wide eyes. Fortunately, my camera was lying close by, and I could fire off a few frames before it decided to join its mates scurrying around in the surrounding bushes.

Two cheetahs and a Thomson’s gazelle fawn — © Vikram Ghanekar

“On one occasion, while out on a drive, we came across Malaika, a famous cheetah mother, along with her three cubs. The cubs were playing with each other and enjoying a game of rough and tumble. Suddenly, they froze, locking their gaze on some movement in the distance. Before we could realise what was happening, the cubs were off in a flash. In a few brief moments, they had caught a very young Thomson’s gazelle fawn. The fawn had been hiding in tall grass, but something had disturbed it, and its movement had drawn attention of the wrong kind.

“The cheetah cubs didn’t kill it immediately, and while the fawn kept trying to run away, the cheetahs took turns to bring it down. This went on for a while under the watchful eyes of their mother. It was hard to look at, but it was nature at work. Finally one of the cheetah cubs delivered the death blow to the now battered fawn. End of innocence, in the literal sense for the innocent young fawn, and end of innocence for the young cheetahs as they turned into adults, capable of killing on their own.

Wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara — © Vikram Ghanekar

“The Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem is famous for its wildebeest migration. One of the most anticipated events in this drama of life is the crossing of the Mara River. On one hot day in September, my family and I were waiting patiently along the banks of the river as a large herd of wildebeest had gathered close by. The atmosphere was tense in anticipation as to when the wildebeest would start crossing. As it so happened, something suddenly spooked the wildebeest, and instead of heading down into the river, the whole herd turned around and thundered away, raising a massive cloud of dust. As the wildebeest stampeded out of the haze, I tripped the shutter of my camera, creating a very different look to the photo.

Lion cub pulling its mother's tail — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Young ones of any species are excellent subjects for photography. What’s even better is when they are lion cubs – especially as adult lions, more often than not, will be found doing precisely nothing. I was observing these young lion cubs playing with each other and their mother. The mother’s tail, of course, was a hot favourite among the cubs, as they all tried to catch hold of the “toy”.

A lioness and her cub — © Vikram Ghanekar

“In another scene, the lion cubs were busy playing with each other, jumping over their mother. I wanted to capture interaction between the mother and her young ones, and the opportunity arose when she looked back as one of the cubs started to climb over her.

Lioness chasing a wildebeest — © Vikram Ghanekar

“On one of the drives, we came across a pride of lions lounging along the banks of the Mara River. The lionesses were quite relaxed and seemed intent on sleeping the afternoon off. Suddenly, a small herd of wildebeest wandered close to the bank. Anticipating a crossing, everybody in the vehicle perked up. The wildebeests’ movement did not go unnoticed. The lionesses that were lounging, half asleep, suddenly were alert and looking keenly towards the wildebeest. As the wildebeest started crossing, one of the lionesses took off. All the hell broke loose with wildebeest scattering in all directions.

“The lioness selected her victim and gave chase. The poor animal abandoned its plan of crossing and instead turned away from the river with the lioness in hot pursuit. Fortunately, I was able to fire off my camera, capturing the moment as she was almost on top of her prey. The drama did not end well for the wildebeest.

Watching impalas graze at sunrise — © Vikram Ghanekar

“It was early one morning as the sun was rising. I positioned our vehicle so that the impalas that were feeding on a ridge were silhouetted against the pre-dawn light. The next thing, a safari vehicle crossed the same ridge, allowing me to take a few quick shots. The people standing in the vehicle with their heads popping out from the roof added to that “ultimate safari in Africa” feel to the scene.

The wonders of Khwai

Staff member setting up camping equipment — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Mobile safari operations require substantial logistical support. As a guest, one doesn’t fully realise the immense hard work that goes on behind the scenes. While on a mobile safari in Botswana, we were shifting camps from Moremi Game Reserve to the Khwai Concession. The staff had taken down the camp after we had left, packed all the equipment in their truck and had made the journey through difficult terrain to reach our next campsite at Khwai. When we arrived at Khwai, they were in the process of setting up camp. As I walked through the campsite, I asked this staff member if I could take her photo as she worked. She obliged by posing for me amid all the camping equipment.

Two people sitting around a campfire — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Sitting around the campfire, or “BushTV” as safari-goers call it, is an essential part of the safari camping experience. This is the place where the day’s adventures are recounted, anecdotes of previous safaris are exchanged, and interesting conversations are initiated – which tend to continue over to the dinner table. This is also the place just to sit and stare into the fire and contemplate. There is no better way to spend an evening where acquaintances are transformed into long-lasting friendships.

A close up of an elephant's tusks — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Elephants are my favourite subjects. There is something majestic and mysterious about these intelligent animals. I find it hard to digest the thought of killing these gentle giants for their tusks, for something as insignificant as a trinket. Ivory belongs to elephants and no one else.

“In this photograph, I tried to capture the beautiful patterns of this elephant bull’s tusks, set on the background of his wonderfully textured trunk.

“Photographing iconic animals of Africa is addictive. Their photos are bound to impress the viewer and evoke emotions. However, the skill of a nature photographer lies in taking an ordinary subject and turning it into an extraordinary photo.

“We had stopped near the Khwai River for sundowners after an eventful afternoon spending time with a pack of wild dogs and a female leopard. As the sun was setting, I noticed a fork-tailed drongo sitting on a dead tree stump. I positioned myself to get that stump between my camera and the sun, trying for a beautiful silhouette of this widespread bird. As luck would have it, the drongo took off just as I tripped the shutter, making the photo even better than I had anticipated!

The trunked giants of Mana Pools

Elephant drinking water in the evening — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe is an extraordinary place. It’s one of the very few parks in Africa where you are allowed to walk on your own among the big game. In the park there is an area called Mana Mouth where the Mana River meets the mighty Zambezi, creating a vast floodplain. This photo was captured at Mana Mouth one evening when a breeding herd of elephants was feeding on one of the exposed islands within the Zambezi. As the sun dipped just below the escarpment on the Zambian side, the sky took on a beautiful glow, adding drama to an already exquisite scene.

Elephant grabbing leaves from a tall tree with trunk — © Vikram Ghanekar

“The park is dominated by giant Faidherbia albida or ana trees. In the dry season, the undergrowth completely dies out, leaving very little food for herbivores on the ground. Elephants, on the other hand, still have access to feed in the form of branches and the delicious seed pods from the ana trees. However, the trees are so tall that reaching those branches is a big stretch, even for a bull elephant. Fortunately, the Mana elephants have learnt to adapt to this situation, and by extending every part of their body in such a way, the tip of their trunks can reach the ana tree’s leaves. A couple of bulls can even heave themselves up onto their hind legs to reach the upper branches while others have to stick with the “Mana stretch” as demonstrated in this photograph.

Bull elephant and a flock of egrets — © Vikram Ghanekar

“In a different elephant sighting in Mana Pools, my friends and I were following a bull elephant on foot. The idea was to capture the subject in the beautiful evening light as the sun’s rays filtered through the ana trees. There was a flock of cattle egrets nearby, feeding on insects disturbed by the elephant. Suddenly the egrets took off! Their flight took them right across the feeding elephant, and I was able to capture that exact moment in this photograph.

Okavango Delta

Safari vehicle driving over a bridge — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Driving through the Okavango Delta in Botswana is a challenging experience. With water levels fluctuating according to the ebb and flow of the river, one may find your path entirely blocked by floodwaters. Certain areas that remain submerged year-round are accessed by crossing some interesting bridges. Constructed entirely out of wooden logs, crossing them is an adventure in itself requiring a lot of careful driving. Yet I was surprised to see signs “Do not speed over the bridge”, indicating some not-so-smart humans and their vehicles have ended up in the floodwaters not too infrequently!

A big herd of buffalo crossing a river — © Vikram Ghanekar

“The delta is a magical place. To experience it from the air is even more magical. When an opportunity to fly over the delta in a helicopter presented itself, I grabbed it with both hands. We had the doors of the helicopter removed, allowing me to take photos from my seat without hindrance. We took off from Maun and were soon flying over Chief’s Island, a part of the delta teeming with wildlife. We came across a large herd of buffalo. As we flew lower, the buffaloes took off through the waters. I took a few photos, composing them in such way that the herd was crossing the frame diagonally, which I thought was much better composition-wise, rather than having them horizontally cross the frame.

South Luangwa

Close up photo of a leopard — © Vikram Ghanekar

“South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is famous for its leopard sightings. Being one of the very few parks in Africa that allows night drives, it is one of the best places to spot leopards. While on safari in South Luangwa, I came across this young male leopard. He saw our vehicle, but instead of running away as leopards are known to do, he merely flattened himself against the ground, allowing me to capture his portrait.

Close up photo of a buffalo — © Vikram Ghanekar

“South Luangwa is the home of walking safaris, allowing tourists to get close to dangerous game on foot. Guides are comfortable taking guests near to big herds of buffalo – considered one of the most dangerous animals in Africa. But lonely old males, or “dagga boys”, are a different matter altogether. These old bulls do not take too kindly to being approached. Separated from herds, old and past their prime, their only response to a perceived threat is to attack. The way they look at you with their beady, bloodshot eyes, sends a shiver down your spine. They certainly give you a look as if you owe them a big debt!

Sensational Savute

Safari vehicles stopped under a baobab tree — © Vikram Ghanekar

“The baobab tree is probably the most iconic tree in Africa. While on our way to Savute on a mobile camping trip in Botswana, our guide, Brian made a special stop under this ancient baobab. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the tree with my mobile phone to emphasise the incredible size of this tree, completely dwarfing us and our cars.

Herd of elephant bulls under an acacia tree — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Savute is a harsh, dry place situated in the heart of the Kalahari with very little surface water – and a playground for colossal bull elephants. On a particularly hot day, I found a group of elephants having a nap under an acacia tree. The elephants had formed a semicircle under the tree, allowing me to take a very different photo. A B&W conversion emphasised the composition, taking away the effects of the harsh sunlight.

Lion peaking out from behind a log — © Vikram Ghanekar

“Another fantastic sighting was of this coalition of four male lions who had brought down a buffalo, feeding on it throughout the night. In the morning, we found two of them still feeding, while the other two were lying in the shade – the one was in the shadow of a large fallen tree. Then we noticed a pair of jackals arrive, looking for scraps. This drew the attention of the dozing lion by the tree. He woke up and stared at the jackals partially through a gap in the tree, and that’s when I captured this photo, revealing just the lion’s eye while the rest of his head and body remained hidden.

Leopard mother carrying her cub — © Vikram Ghanekar

“It was the last day of our mobile camping safari in Savute, and we had left our campsite early in the morning to make our way back to Maun slowly. There is a hill in Savute called “Leopard Rock” in an otherwise very flat landscape. Despite its name, our previous efforts to locate the animal it is named after had failed miserably. Our guide decided to take one last chance as the hill was near to where we were heading.

“When we reached “Leopard Rock”, another vehicle was already there. A lovely couple in the vehicle informed us that they had seen a female leopard climbing into a ravine just a few minutes ago. Maybe luck had decided to smile on us after all… But what we were about to experience was unimaginable.

“After a painfully long time, a beautiful female leopard came out from behind a rock and settled down. But that wasn’t all. She called out softly when suddenly a tiny head popped out from behind the rock. A cub! The cub came out and sat down by its mother. We are ecstatic. The mother licked her cub for a few minutes and then climbed down. Halfway down, she called out for her cub, encouraging it to follow. But the cub was hesitant. It wasn’t going to leave its cosy home behind.

“The mother realised her instructions were not being followed, so she went back and gently picked the cub up in her mouth and climbed down the rock. We could not believe our luck! She came close to our vehicle, crossing the road behind us, still carrying the cub in her mouth. Soon she disappeared into the thick bushes on the other side. Unbelievable! We could not have asked for a better end to our safari in Botswana.”

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

About the author

Vikram Ghanekar is a consultant surgical oncologist at SGM Hospital in Chuplin, India. Wildlife and nature photography has always fascinated him and has led him to experience and photograph Africa’s spectacular wildlife. He has an astounding ability to capture the emotion that should be reflected in a photograph.
“If somebody asks me what my favourite animal to photograph is, it has to be the elephant. Elephants fascinate me more than any cat. Their intelligence, their family bonds, their social interaction is just fantastic to watch and photograph,” he says.

Bees protect large trees from elephant impact

Beehives hang from trees in Jejane Private Nature Reserve © Robin Cook

A study has found that hanging beehives containing African honeybees from the branches of marula trees protects these trees against elephant impact because the elephants avoid those trees. Only 2% of trees with beehives incurred elephant impact, compared to 54% of trees in the research block that had no deterrents.

“This innovative study demonstrates that there are peaceful means with which we can foster the important ecological linkages between elephants, trees and bees. The bees not only protect the large trees from severe impact but as pollinators they also ensure valuable seed banks for the surrounding landscapes,” said Elephants Alive’s Director and Principle Researcher Dr Michelle Henley. “Elephants are important seed disperses to marula trees, so protecting selected iconic tree specimens while leaving others, as this study clearly illustrates, will ensure harmonious coexistence amongst three vital ecosystem components.”

The research was conducted by South African based Elephants Alive and the University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, in partnership with the Elephants and Bees Project of Save the Elephants in Kenya.

The damage caused by elephants stripping the trees’ bark © Mike Kendrick

Conservation managers in fenced-off protected areas are concerned about the impact that expanding African elephant numbers have on the survival rate of large tree species, necessitating the need for mitigation methods. One such mitigation method, wire-netting, has proven to be successful at increasing trees’ survival rates by preventing elephants from ring-barking these trees. However, wire-netted trees are still vulnerable to other types of elephant impact, such as breaking off branches and uprooting the tree. This requires researchers to investigate new methods which may be effective at completely deterring elephants from particular large trees.

Building off Save the Elephants’ research on using African honeybees to mitigate elephant impact on crop fields, the study showed that hanging a combination of both active and dummy (inactive) beehives from the branches of marula trees creates a formidable mitigation method for protecting this keystone species from elephant impact.

Demonstrating how to set up a bee hive in a tree — Demonstration by the Elephants Alive team about how to set up the hives during daylight while waiting for the vehicles carrying the bees to arrive © Mike Kendrick

The investigation, led by Elephants Alive researcher Robin Cook, who is studying for his Master of Science degree at the University of the Witwatersrand (Centre for African Ecology), monitored elephant impact on 150 marula trees in a 30 hectare (75 acre) experimental plot in Jejane Private Nature Reserve, which is part of a larger association of reserves sharing unfenced borders with Kruger National Park. The 150 marula trees were subdivided into 50 beehive trees, 50 wire-netted trees, and 50 control (no treatment) trees. For this study, 50 active beehives were brought into Jejane and hung overnight in their 50 respective trees.

Elephant impact on the 150 trees was monitored between December 2015 and September 2016, with the researchers focusing on various elephant impact-types such as bark-stripping, primary and secondary branch breakage, main stem snapping, and uprooting. Dung transects were also carried out in the experimental plot and a neighbouring control plot in an attempt to gain an understanding of the spatial effect that the beehives had on elephant movements.

Relocating beehives at night — Bees are much calmer at night, so there is less risk of the bees attacking while being relocated after dark © Mike Kendrick

The study took place during a severe drought in South Africa and so a feeding regime was pioneered to supplement the honeybees with pollen, nectar, as well as sugar water inside the experimental plot. This feeding regime, along with maintenance costs, led the researchers to further compare the feasibility of the beehive method by focusing on the costs and benefits of the beehive versus wire-netting mitigation-methods.

“Whilst initial installation costs of the beehive method may be relatively high in comparison to wire-netting, there is a possibility of honey production and an additional financial revenue for protected areas which implement this method,” says Cook. “Feeding costs will also be reduced or even eliminated in areas with an abundance of water and flowers for the honeybees to sustain themselves.”

“This exciting research indicates that beehives could be a valuable ‘tool’ in the toolbox of methods for protecting large trees from elephant impact in fenced-off protected areas” said Dr Lucy King, founder of Save the Elephants’ Elephants and Bees Project, “Particularly as it is a non-lethal method for elephant management”.

Beehives delivered to Jejane Private Nature Reserve — The fifty hives delivered to Jejane Private Nature Reserve © Mike Kendrick

Key findings from the study include:

• Only 2% of trees with beehives received elephant impact, in comparison to 28% wire-netted and 54% control trees.

• Beehives were more effective than wire-netting at protecting trees from impact.

• Beehives in trees are effective at protecting the individual tree from elephant impact but do not prevent elephants from impacting neighbouring trees.

• Beehives were more expensive than wire-netting, and require greater maintenance.

• For protected areas with logistic and financial resources, beehives can provide a valuable alternative method for protecting large trees from elephant impact.

Thanks to the generous funding of EMS Foundation, the wooden beehives in the experimental plot have been upgraded to a longer-lasting model to ensure that the research will carry on over a longer period of time, with the additional focus on honey production.

Contact Robin Cook for more information regarding this research project.

The full report: Science Direct, R.M. Cook, F. Parrini, L.E. King, E.T.F. Witkowski, M.D. Henley: “African honeybees as a mitigation method for elephant impact on trees”

Opinion: Hunting is sustainable (ab)use

Hunters with a dead elephant, hunting — Illustrative example of hunters with an elephant carcass

Opinion post: Written by Chris Mercer – Founder of Campaign Against Canned Hunting

This blog criticises a letter sent to the Chinese government by well-known hunting apologist Eugene Lapointe.

After wrapping himself in a cloak of assumed credibility arising from previous association with international organisations such as CITES, he writes to the Chinese government asking it to resist calls for it to ban the trade in ivory. His self-important homily then proceeds to expound upon the alleged efficacy of the doctrine of ‘wise use’.

Unfortunately, he finds support from some African media for his view that elephants are merely a resource to be exploited.

All his tired old arguments are half-truths that can be reduced to the following syllogism:

1. All cats have four legs.

2. My dog has four legs.

3. Therefore my dog is a cat.

In his philosophy, hunters are wonderful conservationists and the plight of wildlife can be laid solely at the door of shrill animal rightists in the developed world.

Quoting himself: “As I stated in 2007, the beneficiaries of a complete ban on all legal ivory trade are the poachers, criminal gangs and corrupt officials who drive the illegal trade — and who the campaigners suppose they are opposing,” said Mr Lapointe. “Of course, the animal rights groups themselves raise billions of dollars through their campaigns in the United States and Europe, so a ban also satisfies their financial needs”.

Lapointe’s argument is: there was a ban; there was also a surge in poaching; ergo, the ban must have caused it. This is a perfect example of the ‘my dog is a cat’ syllogism. How simplistic. How childish. If only it were that simple. No doubt he would argue that the only way to save whales is by whaling and that any ban would merely ‘satisfy the financial needs’ of Sea Shepherd.

Actually, there were many causes for the upsurge in poaching, including the rise of affluence in China and the rest of Asia, as well as the CITES-approved ivory stockpile releases in 1997, 2000 and 2008.

The truth is that saving Africa’s wildlife is a hideously complex and deep issue involving environmental, political, socio-economic, cultural and geopolitical considerations. One political hot potato is the human population explosion in Africa (mirrored elsewhere). Rapidly expanding human populations overwhelms all social services such as health and education, the economy and ultimately the ecology. Poverty and unemployment are the inevitable consequence, and animal rights campaigners are not responsible for poverty and unemployment in Africa.

Another contributor to the demise of wildlife is that some African governments and administrations are notoriously corrupt. Some years ago, I was travelling through a ‘protected’ wilderness area near the Zambezi River. Such marvellous wilderness – and yet there was no wildlife to be seen. We could not understand why. Then we came across the game ranger’s camp and right there, strung up on wires all around the camp, were hundreds of pieces of meat drying in the sun to be turned into biltong and sold. Give a man like that a government vehicle, a government rifle and salary and all you are doing is equipping him to run his own private game butchery business.

The dwindling wildlife areas in Africa are precious resources that ought to be ferociously protected by governments. Alas, trees and animals do not vote and therefore get no money from patronage-dependent political structures. And into this vacuum where governance and protection should exist comes the hunting industry, trumpeting (excuse the pun!) its conservation credentials.

Game farmers point at the infrastructure they have built and the control that they exercise over their fenced-off ranches and claim righteously that they are the only defence standing between the wildlife and the rapacious poachers who would kill all the animals, whereas the hunters will only kill some of the animals. What on earth does this have to do with conservation? Domesticating wild animals and then rearing them like sheep to be slaughtered by hunters is not conservation, it is farming with alternative livestock. Farming for commercial purposes should never be confused with conservation, which is the preservation of natural functioning ecosystems for their own sakes.

Yet this totally irrelevant argument for hunting is seized upon by many role players in the conservation spectrum. Like large organisations such as WWF. And politicians and bureaucrats in the United States, who are terrified of offending the hunting/NRA block vote of 4 million votes that can easily swing an election.

Hunting is an ugly, dirty, bloody business, but the proponents make it sound almost acceptable with the use of euphemisms such as: ‘well-regulated hunting can serve as a tool of conservation’. Since when has hunting been well-regulated in Africa?

And now, following the flawed hunting narrative, comes the lamestream media, desperate to infuse cultural Marxism into the conservation space. Well-known publications like Newsweek publish articles by journalists like Nina Burleigh, who attacks and seeks to discredit hard-working anti-poaching organisations like Damien Mander’s IAPF. In her philosophy, Damien is white and therefore evil, whereas the poachers that he is tackling are black and therefore innocent victims. No doubt they would be much happier if Damien Mander’s game rangers were carrying flowers instead of weapons and handing them out to poachers, along with an audio-visual presentation of how important it is to preserve wildlife. Africa does not work that way and their naive liberal views merely show how little they understand Africa. Again, how simplistic. How childish. If only it were that simple.

Why are so many African governments ruled or controlled by dictators? The answer is that much of African falls under some form of chieftainship, where the Chief is king and he enjoys significant influence and control over many resources in the kingdom. Zimbabwe President Robert Mugabe repressed political dissent in Matabeleland by destroying entire villages and the inhabitants – that makes him a genocidal monster – but it also helps to explain how he stayed in power for 37 years. There is a lesson there, reinforced by the fact that the African Union elected him Chairman – knowing full well his murderous history. Liberal attitudes do not fare well in Africa, and the people of Africa know this.

Few of the existing role players in conservation understand or have the political influence or stomach to save Africa’s vanishing wilderness. The issues are just too broad and deep – and politically charged.

Perhaps the following stopgap measures would help with the conservation of African ecosystems and wildlife:

• All aid from the developed world to African countries should be rigidly tied to environmental compliance.

• The hunting fraternity should transition to turning their enormous resources to stopping poachers, and to protecting the animals. The hunting fraternity is a well-armed, wealthy militia, and can serve a useful purpose if properly directed.

• No expense should be spared to protect remaining wilderness areas. The money is there. If an old da Vinci painting can fetch half a billion dollars on auction, and trillions can be created out of thin air to be thrown at zombie banks to rescue them from their own greed, do not tell me that there is no money to save the environment and the wilderness.

Let us at least have an honest debate about conservation issues, without sustainable use propagandists like Eugene Lapointe hurling blame and pejorative epithets at the animal welfare community.

Snakebite season in Southern Africa

Stiletto snake (Atractaspis bibronii), venomous — Stiletto snake (Atractaspis bibronii) © Johan Marais (African Snakebite Institute)

Media release by African Snakebite Institute, written by Johan Marais

While the snakebite season is not yet in full swing, a number of serious snakebites have occurred in the past few weeks.

Many bites from deadly snakes are difficult to prevent as people accidentally stand on snakes, especially at night. But the snake that has been biting lots of people recently is the poorly-known stiletto snake, also known as the side-stabbing snake.

It is a small nondescript snake that averages around 30 – 40 cm in length, dark brown to blackish in colour and spends most of its life underground. They usually emerge in the early evening, especially after summer rains and often end up in swimming pools. For some reason, people mistake them for mole snakes, even though they are far too thin to look like one.

The big danger is their fangs and potent cytotoxic venom. If grabbed behind the neck the snake will twist it head sideways with one fang protruding and will stab it into a thumb or finger. Otherwise, if caught at mid-body, the snake will thrash around with its fangs sticking out and the person catching it will get bitten once or twice.

Enormous fangs of a Bibron's stiletto snake from the Kalahari, venomous snake — Enormous fangs of a Bibron’s stiletto snake from the Kalahari © Johan Marais

Stiletto venom is potently cytotoxic, causing immediate pain, swelling, blistering and in many cases severe tissue damage that may result in a digit or two being amputated. It is an extremely painful and destructive bite but is not considered potentially lethal. There is no antivenom for this snake’s venom and doctors can only treat for pain and wait a few days to see how extensive the tissue damage is.

The stiletto snake is absent from the Western Cape, most of the Eastern Cape and most of Namaqualand, but common in KwaZulu-Natal, Gauteng, Mpumalanga and Limpopo as well as much of Northwest, entering Zimbabwe, Botswana and northern Namibia.

Please be warned and refrain from touching any snake.

Safari tips: What weather to expect in Africa

In the rain while on safari in Africa — © Simon Espley

Africa is a vast continent, with climates ranging from Mediterranean to equatorial. Expect low-lying areas to be hotter and more humid and the high-lying regions to be cooler. Local geographical features such as mountains, lakes and the sea can affect weather patterns by lowering temperatures and bringing more rain and wind.

Weather impacts on what you are likely to see, and on what to pack. So, here is a broad outline of sub-Saharan African climates:

East Africa

Kenya, Tanzania, Zanzibar, Uganda, Rwanda, DR Congo, Ethiopia and far northern Zambia

• This area is close to the equator and so seasonal fluctuations in temperature are largely insignificant.

• Expect generally warm weather, although temperatures can drop significantly during and after rainy weather, and at night.

• Temperatures will vary between 20º to 40º Celsius.

• The main rainy season is from April to May, with a lighter, second rainy season from mid-October to December.

• Neither rainy season should influence your travel plans, although you should pack rain gear during those times.

• Coastal areas are hot and humid throughout the year, with December to March being uncomfortably so.

Great Wildebeest Migration Kenya Tanzania with Africa Geographic — A rocky kopje rises above the endless plains of northern Serengeti ©Simon Espley

Southern Africa

Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Mozambique, Malawi, Zimbabwe and South Africa, excluding the Western Cape

• Expect hot and wet summers (November to March), cool and dry winters (April to August) and hot and dry spring (September and October).

• Rainfall tends to be in short thunderstorms in the late afternoon.

• Temperatures will vary between 20º to 40º Celsius in summer and 10 to 25º in winter (with close to freezing at times, especially in higher-lying areas).

• October and November can be especially hot and humid, with relief when the rains arrive.

weather in Africa — Greater Kruger walking safari @Simon Espley

South Africa

Western Cape

• Mediterranean climate.

• Expect hot and dry summers (November to March) and cold and wet winters (April to October).

• Temperatures will vary between 15º to 35º Celsius in summer and 0º to 20º Celcius in winter (snow in high-lying areas).

• This is the southern tip of Africa and therefore expect the odd freak weather system in summer, bringing rain and lower temperatures.

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Photographer of the Year: Best Photos from 2017

December 1st marks the start of our Photographer of the Year 2018 competition! To celebrate the occasion, we have taken a stroll down memory lane to look back at our previous year’s winners and finalists.

In this edition, we share with you the selection of world-class photos that made the finals of the 2017 competition. We hope that this serves as inspiration for this year’s competition, and we look forward to receiving your awesome images.

Overall Winner – Photographer of the Year 2017

An elephant calf being hugged by two trunks — “Circles of protection” in South Africa’s Eastern Cape © John Vosloo

Culture category winner

Ethiopian woman in traditional dress — “Proud” in Omo Valley, Ethiopia © Christophe Lapeze

Travel category winner

Quiver trees in the Richtersveld, South Africa © Willem Kruger

Finalists

Lion covered in mud in a tree — “Thirsty look” in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Panos Laskarakis

Elephant bull in Etosha National Park — “Majestic elephant bull” in Namibia © Annemarie du Plessis

A lion family walking at sunset — A lion family at sunset in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Anja Gröbel

Leopard leaping through the air — Leopard spotted during a game count in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa © Bryan Havemann

An adder camouflaged in the sand — “Now you see me, now you don’t” – a Peringuey’s adder in the Namib Desert, Namibia © Tyrone Ping

Close up photo of a gorilla — “Humankind” – western lowland gorilla in Dja Faunal Reserve, Cameroon © Björn Persson

Cheetah standing in the rain — A magical shower in Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania © George Turner

Jackal jumping in the air to catch a bird — “He who adapts best wins!” in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa/Botswana © Johan Mocke

Lions catching a wildebeest calf — “Wildebeest hunt” in Kariega Game Reserve, South Africa © Jacques de Klerk

Muddy leopard catching its prey — “The perfect catch” in Savute, Chobe National Park, Botswana © James Gifford

Close up photo of an elephant — “The inquisitive one” in South Africa’s Eastern Cape © Andrew Aveley

Close up of a hyena gazing — Hyena gazing up longingly in Timbavati Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Greg McCall-Peat

Close up of a pangolin — “Tools of the trade” in Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Mark Smith

Close up of a rhino calf — “Innocence” in Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Andrea Galli

A pack of hyenas on the hunt — “On the prowl” in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Nicholas Dyer

Close up of a gorilla — “Morning yawn” in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Nelis Wolmarans

Bird steals prey from another bird — “Disappointment in the air” in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Olli Teirilä

Crocodile camouflaged in the mud — “Eyes wide open” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Ross Couper

A Cape robin-chat in the rain — A Cape robin-chat enjoys a bath in Cape Town, South Africa © Dionne Miles

Baby hyena with feathers on its nose — “As light as a feather” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Senka Gavrilovic

Close up of a Gelada monkey — Gelada monkey portrait in the Ethiopian Highlands © Patrice Quillard

Cheetah walking in the plains — “I see you too!” in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Dave Gale

A rock monitor hides in a tree in Ndumo Game Reserve, South Africa © Ernest Porter

The elephant orphans of Zambia

41 - Filling up on browse-© The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Rescued elephant orphan — The rescued elephant orphan, Mkaliva © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Ten years ago in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia, a one-and-a-half-year-old elephant is left alone and helpless when her mother is shot dead by poachers. The orphan calf is flown to Lusaka and ultimately moves into the Elephant Orphanage Project’s Lilayi Elephant Facility, situated on a 650 hectare game farm on the outskirts of town.

Healthy, but understandably traumatised, Chamilandu struggles to come to terms with the loss of both her mother and extended family. Suffering nightmares that have her screaming aloud in her sleep, it will take a great deal of love and attention from dedicated keepers to give her the reassurance she needs to adjust to her new life.

In the intervening years, Chamilandu grows into the matriarch of the orphan herd. Mothering and comforting the younger orphan calves as one tragedy or another brings them to the orphanage. Moving from the Lilayi Facility to Phoenix Camp in Kafue National Park (the release centre for older orphans) she eventually starts to demonstrate her desire to live independently in the bush; going on longer and longer forays alone and away from the release centre. Indeed, recently she has been seen interacting and mating with a wild bull in the park, a positive sign that she is ready to create new family/friendship bonds and is preparing herself for a life in the wild.

The orphans Mosi, Tafika, Chamilandu and Batoka walking in the bush in Kafue National Park © Elephant Orphanage Project/Facebook

Elephants in Africa are under serious threat, primarily due to large scale poaching for ivory and also as a result of conflicts arising from elephant-human interactions. It is estimated that 25,000 elephants are being killed in Africa every year… this works out at approximately one elephant killed every 15 minutes!

The Elephant Orphanage Project provides a sanctuary for defenceless elephant calves who are the victims of poaching, human conflict or occasionally natural abandonment. Under the age of two, young elephants are extremely vulnerable and very dependent. Most will not survive without both their mother’s care and her nutrient-rich milk.

Treating Mkaliva’s wounds. Tumeric is also applied as it acts as a natural insect repellent © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Lilayi Elephant Nursery

The first port of call for any orphan rescued within Zambia is the Lilayi Elephant Nursery, and it is here that these fragile babies are looked after twenty-four hours a day – a milk-dependent orphan requires its special formula every three hours!

Rescued baby elephant orphan being bottle fed — Unloading the 41st rescued orphan, who is now called ’41’ © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Trained keepers care for and watch over their charges constantly; taking them on daily ‘bush walks’, feeding them and staying close at hand to provide reassurance when the babies are in the stables at night. These keepers play a vital role in the emotional and social recovery of the young elephants, and become the ‘mother figure’ the babies desperately need.

Elephant calf being treated for an eye infection — Treating 41’s infected eye after rescue © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

These youngsters have a difficult road ahead as they overcome the loss of their families, learn how to integrate and socialise with other elephants and ultimately grow into healthy adults who will one day walk free.

Elephant orphan calves out on a walk with their keepers — The orphans out on a daily walk with their keepers © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Kafue National Park release facility

As soon as the calves can be weaned from milk (approx three years of age) they are moved, with at least one social playmate, from Lusaka to the Release Facility in Kafue National Park, where they join other, older, orphaned elephants. Here they will learn to live more independently of human support and will spend much of their time wandering freely through the bush (‘walks’ scheduled from 6am – 12pm and 2pm – 6pm daily, with mud baths and playtime taking up the middle of the day).

The Kafue Release Facility is adjacent to the ancient Ngoma Teak Forest where there is a 1,000-strong local elephant population, maximising the chances of the orphans integrating with fellow elephants and gradually moving back into the wild once they are emotionally, physically and socially ready.

Three elephants in Kafue National Park — The older orphans, Bezi, Tafika and Muso, in Kafue National Park © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

History

The Elephant Orphanage Project was established in 2007, with critical and on-going funding from the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, with the mission of rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing orphaned elephants back into the wild. The Elephant Orphanage Project works together with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and is part of a conservation initiative developed and operated by Game Rangers International, a Zambian, not for profit NGO.

Four elephant orphan calves out for a walk with their keepers — By going out on bush walks the orphans learn how to integrate and socialise with other elephants © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Visiting the nursery

You can visit the Lilayi Elephant Nursery, which is just a 35-minute drive from the centre of Lusaka any day of the year between 11h30 and 13h00. At 11h30 a staff member gives a short talk about the orphanage and you can visit the viewing deck which is an ideal vantage point for watching the elephants feed and play.

Note that given the ultimate goal of releasing the elephants back to the wild, visitors are not permitted to touch the elephants.

Cost: Adults K50, children ages 12-18 K20, children under 12 free. Every Monday entry is free.

elephant orphanage, viewing deck, people — A keeper gives a short talk about the orphanage from the viewing deck

If you want to venture a little further off the beaten track, then you can visit the Elephant Orphanage’s Kafue Release Facility in the southern part of Kafue National Park, 12km along the South Nkala Loop from Ngoma (location of the National Parks and Wildlife Headquarters).

The closest places to stay when visiting the release centre is Konkamoya Lodge or HippoBay Campsite and Bushcamp.

Elephant calf feeding on browse at an orphanage facility — The orphan, 41. feeding on browse after successful treatment © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Costs and fundraising

It costs a lot to raise an orphan from rescue to release – a lot more that you might think! Rescues alone can vary widely in cost depending on the area the calf is found in just for starters.

In some instances special vehicles, boats or even planes need to be hired, add to that scout and tracker fees, then add vet fees which can include quarantine, sedatives, blood tests and various other medications – and don’t forget the cost of ‘manpower’.

Rescuing an elephant orphan calf — The rescue operation of the elephant orphan calf Muchichili © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

An ‘average’ rescue will be in the region of US$1,500. And once an orphan is rescued the costs continue to mount, with a staff of 27 at the Kafue Release Centre and another 17 at the Lilayi nursery wages are not an insignificant cost to be factored in. Feeding, veterinary, maintenance, communications… the list goes on.

With 17 orphans currently being cared for between the two facilities, each costing approximately $35,000 a year, the Elephant Orphanage Project has an operating budget in the region of $600,000 a year.

As with all conservation projects, funds are always in short supply, any donations can be directed to the Elephant Orphanage Project fundraising page.

You can also follow the project on their Facebook page.

Two elephant orphan calves — Kasewe and Njanji out on a bush walk © The Elephant Orphanage (Game Rangers International)

Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park: Protecting the “birthplace of rhino”

Ranger protecting rhinos in Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Media release provided by Peace Parks Foundation

“The birthplace of rhino” – this is the name often given to Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park (HiP) in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, where the southern white rhino was saved from the brink of extinction half a century ago. Over the past few months, though, this sacred rhino protection area, managed by conservation agency Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife, has had a significant escalation in rhino poaching.

As custodian of key white and black rhino populations, Ezemvelo has been protecting these iconic species and many of our country’s other natural assets for decades. Yet, the recent shift in focus by organised crime and wildlife trafficking syndicates have resulted in tremendous pressure being exerted on this conservation agency. Whilst they could forecast a potential displacement of poaching from other areas and prepare accordingly, the intensity at which Ezemvelo, and specifically HiP, has been targeted over the past year, was not something that could be predicted.

Fighting for life

Contrary to the picture of disinterested Ezemvelo conservation officials often painted in the media of late, the men and women of HiP are literally fighting for the lives of their animals and their people without rest. Rangers are out on patrol day and night, responding to alerts and pro-actively creating a safety barrier between the rhino and potential intruders. Nights are spent in the bush, double shifts worked, with many of them not seeing their families for weeks on end as they dedicate themselves to their work’s purpose.

In control rooms nearby, rotating shifts of support teams to these rangers have eyes on screens and ears in radio communications 24/7 – collaborating with provincial law-enforcement units and closely supported by South African Police (SAPS). Emotions have run high these past months, and speaking to the staff on the ground you could easily see anger, immense sadness, and utter desperation expressed all in one conversation about the attack on their wildlife, their park, their livelihood.

Whilst the field staff kept up the front line, the dramatic increase in rhino poaching coupled with the impact thereof on their staff, have kept the Ezemvelo top brass sequestered behind closed doors for the sole purpose of developing more effective anti-poaching and resource management strategies.

Advanced strategies

Through lessons learnt on home ground, as well as taking from approaches successfully implemented by other conservation agencies, various tactics have been identified that will form the focus of resources and time over the next few years.

• Firstly, this involves implementing intensive protect zone strategies to more efficiently patrol critical hotspots and protect core rhino populations within the expansive public conservation space that Ezemvelo is responsible for.

• Secondly, significant effort will be put towards putting in place structures and systems to solidify joint operation initiatives with national and provincial law enforcement, private rhino owners, and other conservation agencies (such as South African National Parks). Illicit rhino trafficking syndicates have no regard for national, provincial or any other boundaries, and it is, therefore, critical that anti-poaching and counter-trafficking operations be aligned across agencies and geographical regions.

• Furthermore, the primary focus has been placed on increasing the use of technology as a force-multiplier to detection and response strategies – placing Ezemvelo one step ahead of poachers, improving effective and rapid mobilisation of available resources, and keeping field staff safer. In this regard, Ezemvelo has embarked on a journey with Peace Parks Foundation in the evolvement of HiP as a so-called ‘Smart Park’. In October 2017, this partnership was formalised with the signing of a Memorandum of Agreement through which Peace Parks Foundation committed more than R10,6 million towards the HiP Smart Park development as part of the Rhino Protection Programme.

Mr Bheki Khoza, Acting CEO of Ezemvelo, shared his hope for the road ahead: “It will be near impossible for Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife to succeed in its fight against rhino poaching without the involvement of local communities as well as the support of public and private organisations that go out of their way to fund new technologies aimed at fighting rhino poaching. The poaching syndicates are always devising new plans to counter the strategies we use against them. I am hopeful that the new integrated, joint operational plan that we are now embarking on will be a game-changer. I am not saying that it will totally eradicate rhino poaching, but I know that it will form a critical component of efforts to reduce illegal wildlife crime activities going forward.”

Three rangers on patrol in Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

The purpose of the integrated system is to provide park managers and rangers with improved insight into everything that is happening across HiP’s vast conservation space, and to respond in a timely manner with the right resources. It will also allow for mapping rhino movement and hotspots, and the subsequent planning and execution of more successful protection tactics.

No longer will ranger forces have to follow the faint sound of a gunshot for hours before finally realising that the perpetrators had already jumped the fence. Now a gunshot can be followed by a rapid deployment of reaction forces to within metres of the alert location. And, if all plans come to fruition, the hand that would have pulled the trigger will in future be in handcuffs before the shot is even fired.

The HiP Smart Park

The development of the Smart Park entails the deployment of a collection of integrated technology solutions that together create a connected environment to enable seamless collection and consolidation of real-time data from various devices and sensors throughout the Park. Intelligent surveillance systems, image recognition cameras, digital radios, handheld data collection devices, animal tracking sensors, gate and access control systems, vehicle and aerial response tracking systems – these are but a few of the data sources that will be integrated into the unified technology ecosystem.

The establishment of the Smart Park will also include the provision of a Low Power Wide Area Network (LoRaWaN) with world-class internet connectivity for the integration of smart sensors and the speedy transmission of data.

The approach that has been developed through the agreement between Ezemvelo and Peace Parks, not only relates to developing a Smart Park with greater real-time wide-area situational awareness but also focuses on putting in place a central command and control system for the anti-poaching unit. All data collected will be packaged and presented to this central command through a single, simple web-based application, where artificial intelligence will also be applied to interpret and analyse the data, allowing for quick decision-making and effective tactical planning.

Central command will be headed by an operations manager who will make sure that the new technologies are integrated into daily anti-poaching operations and who will guide reaction force tactics – thus bridging the “people” and “technology” divide from within.

Werner Myburgh, Peace Parks Foundation CEO, added: “The battle against wildlife crime is far from over, and high market prices continue to drive the relentless demand for wildlife products. To stabilise this situation, a sustained multi-pronged approach is required. Whilst consumer countries need to be educated about the devastating consequences of their behaviour, we cannot sit idly by, hoping for change. Technology is one of the many strategies that can play a significant role in preventing the extinction of iconic species such as rhino in the wild. To this end, we would like to congratulate Ezemvelo for boldly moving forward, and wish to express our sincere thanks to the Dutch Postcode Lottery for their continued and courageous support.”

Why the green season is the time to visit Botswana

Leopard in Botswana with Africa Geographic

Leopard during the green season in Botswana with Africa Geographic — ©Simon Espley

November through to March is Botswana’s green season, a time where the country is blessed with much needed rainfall following a long dry season. To locals it is also known as the “secret season”, a unique time of year to visit which many visitors are simply unaware of.

Here are a few reasons why Botswana should be top of your list for a last minute holiday:

Birthing season

Many young are born during green season, due to the plentiful grazing around them. This allows for unique sightings of little ones finding their feet for the first time, fiercely protected by their mothers and the herd. Of course with babies around, there are predators not far behind, which can lead to spectacular (if stressful) encounters.

Botswana green season with Africa Geographic

Affordability

Many lodges offer special offers or SADC rates during green season, making the destination up to 50% cheaper than the busy peak season. Take advantage of ‘stay/pay’ promotions as well as value added deals.

Peace and quiet

Say goodbye to pushing and shoving amongst other game drive vehicles to get a glimpse of a leopard. Green season is also quiet season, a time when there are fewer people, allowing the tourist a much more exclusive and personal safari.

Migrations, birds and the small things

Many migratory birds arrive in Botswana during green season, making the country a birder’s haven. Green season is also the time for wildlife migrations, as animals move to take advantage of mineral-rich grazing. It is this time of year you may witness hundreds of zebra on the usually dry Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. The Kalahari also blooms with life, attracting antelope and zebras in their masses. This is also the time when you will notice chameleons, tortoises, frogs and other small creatures as they take advantage of the rains.

Chameleon on green season safari in Botswana with Africa Geographic — ©Simon Espley

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Trophy hunting may cause extinction in a changing environment

Sourced from third-party site: Independent, written by Josh Gabbatiss

Male animals with the biggest antlers, horns and tusks have ‘high-quality genes’, so removing them from populations can be disastrous. When hunters kill animals for trophies, they often target the biggest and the best individuals.

Unfortunately, according to a new study these individuals are not only valuable to those who want their heads on walls. The importance of such animals to the wider population calls into question some of the hunting carried out under the banner of “conservation”.

“Large antlers or other ornaments are correlated with the genetic quality of the individual carrying them,” said Dr Robert Knell, an evolutionary ecologist at Queen Mary, University of London.

A big pair of tusks on an elephant or a large, dark mane on a lion don’t only imply status, they also indicate that those animals are “able to acquire resources, to grow well and to be healthy, and for that, they need to have a high-quality genome,” said Dr Knell.

It is often assumed that “selective harvesting” in the form of trophy hunting doesn’t seriously harm populations, as it only involves removing a few individuals and only targets males. Males tend to have desirable features for hunters, and it is generally thought that females will always be able to find willing mates.

In a paper published in the journal Proceedings of the Royal Society B, Dr Knell set out to investigate whether these assumptions held true, or whether a decline in genetic quality could be a serious problem.

“What we said was, why don’t we put that into our big fat mathematical simulation model and see what happens,” he said.

Dr Knell and his collaborator Carlos Martinez Ruiz found selective harvesting can be a particular problem when animals are experiencing environmental stress. When a population is forced to adapt in response to a changing environment, then the removal of the highest quality individuals had catastrophic results. Populations were unable to adapt and were far more likely to go extinct.

Habitats like the African savannah, where a lot of trophy hunting takes place, are also highly susceptible to climate change. This makes the findings of this study all the more worrying.

“If we get the 2°C change that now looks like the minimum we are going to get, that’s going to put a lot of stress on a lot of these populations,” said Dr Knell.

“Africa is already hot, and it’s going to get quite a bit hotter.”

Trophy hunting is increasingly being presented as a viable conservation strategy, with a greater area of land being conserved for hunting in Sub-Saharan Africa than is set aside for national parks.

Many conservation groups support the practice, with WWF stating that “in certain limited and rigorously controlled cases, including for threatened species, scientific evidence has shown that trophy hunting can be an effective conservation tool as part of a broad mix of strategies”.

“I think there is a very good case that when you have very well managed trophy hunting, it is largely beneficial in terms of conservation,” said Dr Knell.

However, he warns that an unfortunate focus by organisations such as Safari Club International on the size of horns and other appendages may prevent such practices being classified as “well managed”.

“The more you find out about this, the more you understand that these guys are very focused on the animals with the biggest horns or antlers, or the lions with the big black dark manes,” he said.

Fishing spiders: Small but deadly predators

Spider walking across lily pads — © Andrea Benaglia

Written, and photographs, by Andrea Benaglia

A trip to Africa can sometimes provide unique sightings other than elephants, lions and antelopes.

And extraordinary sightings such as a fishing spider (Dolomedes) feeding on a freshly captured Argus reed frog is one such example. Spotted on a private property on Diani Beach in Kwale County, Kenya, this spider had my attention for full two-and-a-half hours as it slowly digested the frog – it was certainly a rewarding sight that any photographer and wildlife enthusiast would appreciate.

It was clearly not an easy meal to capture and eat, considering that the poor frog was far larger than the spider. While they mainly feed on insects, they do hunt for much larger prey such as small fish, dragonflies and, in this case, frogs.

Fishing spiders hunt by patiently waiting at the edge of a pool or stream. On detecting ripples and vibrations they use their vibration-detecting organs and sensitive hairs (trichobothria) located on their legs to determine the source, be it falling leaves, wind on the water or potential prey. They kill their prey by injecting venom, which not only kills it but also aids in digestion.

Spider eating frog on lily pad — © Andrea Benaglia

Dolomedes is a genus of large spiders of the Pisauridae family with over a hundred species distributed all over the world. Fishing spiders are also known as fish-eating spiders or raft spiders, and being semi-aquatic and nocturnal, they are generally hard to spot – which is why this particular sighting was quite unique to witness in my eyes!

Fishing spider on the water — © Andrea Benaglia

Safari tips: What to pack for your African safari

So, what to pack for your next safari? The rule of thumb is to pack light and to make use of the laundry facilities at your lodges and hotels. That said, there are some essentials that you should never be without.

After many years of exploring every nook and cranny of Africa, our travel team has drilled down their list of essentials to the following:

• Good quality sunglasses – preferably polarised

• Light scarf – for hot and cold weather

• Sun hat or cap

• Golf-shirts, T-shirts and long-sleeved cotton shirts – neutral colours such as brown, tan, khaki, green, etc.

• Shorts/skirts

• Long trousers/slacks

• More formal attire for your stay at prestigious city hotels or on one of the luxury trains

• Underwear and socks. Sports bra recommended on game drives as the roads can be bumpy and uneven.

• Good walking shoes (running/tennis shoes are fine)

• Sandals

• Swimming costume

• Warm anorak or parka, scarf & gloves (it can get cold at night and in the early morning)

• Light rain gear for the rainy months

• Camera and video equipment, memory cards and spare batteries

• If you wear contact lenses, we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case your eyes get irritated by the dust

• Binoculars (night vision binoculars are not essential but highly recommended if your safari includes night activities)

• Relevant bird book or app if you are a keen birder

• Personal toiletries

• Malaria tablets (if applicable)

• Moisturising cream and suntan lotion

• Insect repellent, e.g. Tabard, Peaceful Sleep, Rid, Jungle Juice, etc.

• Basic medical kit (aspirins, plasters, Imodium, antiseptic cream and antihistamine cream, etc.)

• Tissues/”Wet Wipes”

• Visas, tickets, passports, money and important documents

• Waterproof/dust-proof bags/cover for your cameras

• Padlocks for your luggage during international and regional flights

• Mobile phone + charger

• Torch and reading head-lamp + batteries

• Country-specific plug prongs and adaptors

• Power bank for device charging while away from recharging points

• Covid-related test results and proof of vaccinations

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story. Also, go here to see some of our popular ready-made safari options.

PHASA approves canned lion hunting, faces backlash

In a change of policy after earlier turning its back on the breeding and hunting of captive lions, the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (PHASA) has now approved such practices. During their annual general meeting on 22 November, members voted to approve “the hunting of captive-bred lions as a legitimate form of hunting”.

This follows the decision by PHASA in November 2015 to distance itself from canned lion hunting, following a call by the then president Hermann Meyeridricks for a review of the practice after he had viewed the film Blood Lions.

The captive breeding of lions has led to several lucrative and morally questionable industries – including the petting of lion cubs by tourists, tourist walking with adolescent lion, voluntourists caring for such lion cubs and adolescent lions, canned lion hunting and the lion bone trade. The captive bred lions progress through these phases of exploitation, generating significant amounts of revenue, before being killed and the bones sold. This industry often trades under the guise of some form of conservation message, including the false claim that the lions are being bred for release back into the wild.

PHASA’s decision has resulted in widespread anger in the broader hunting industry, with other member associations and prominent members of Phasa publicly distancing themselves.

In reaction, the Operators and Professional Hunting Associations of Africa (OPHAA) has terminated PHASA’s membership with immediate effect, stating “PHASA’s actions completely disregard one of the fundamental concepts of hunting, namely fair-chase, and will, without doubt, jeopardise not only conservation efforts but also the livelihoods of those who rely on well-managed and ethical hunting practices, far beyond the borders of South Africa. As a result, the majority of OPHAA members have voted to indefinitely suspend PHASA’s membership in OPHAA until further notice”.

The Namibian Professional Hunting Association president Danene van Der Westhuyzen publicly criticised PHASA’s decision on their Facebook page, saying it was ‘shocked and deeply disappointed that PHASA has decided to take the low road by amending its constitution to include a bland and superficial definition of the word ‘ethical’ that now leaves the door wide open to abuse and exploitation by those who clearly have no concern for the future of hunting in Africa, or around the world.”

A number of high profile PHASA members have come out on social media to publicly criticise PHASA, including former president Stuart Dorrington, whose reaction is being widely circulated on Facebook:

“We, as a concerned group of professional hunters, distance ourselves completely from such acceptance and no longer view PHASA as the legitimate mouthpiece for professional hunting in South Africa. A new association will be formed in the very near future and will once again reflect the traditions of responsible, ethical and conservation-based hunting in South Africa.”

Traveller24.com quoted Ian Michler of Blood Lions as saying. “Their stance is a combination of ludicrously archaic thinking that seems to have no ethical or ecological grounding, as well as pure greed. We expect this group to continue with their attempts to justify intensive breeding and killing”.

Opinion: The voice missing from the elephant trophy debate? Africans

Opinion post: The voice missing from the elephant trophy debate? Africans, written by Rosie Cooney – chair of the IUCN’s Sustainable Use and Livelihoods Specialist Group – original story: Washington Post: Opinions

The answers for conserving the earth’s wild creatures seem easy from the office chairs of the affluent west. Ban trophy hunting! Hunt down the poachers! More tourism!

But the social media campaigns and President Trump’s flip-flopping on Twitter over the past few days on U.S. elephant trophy imports from Zimbabwe and Zambia highlight the deficiencies of this model of decision-making. We need a lot less shouting and lot more listening – and to different voices.

How can we help secure a future for wildlife? We know what animal lovers and celebrities will say. We know what the hunting organisations will say. We’ve heard these voices before, loud and clear, with the same simple answers. But what might the people and government of Zimbabwe say (if they could look away from their political crisis)? What might we hear from the bushveld, the mopane scrub or the acacia thickets – from the people who live, raise their children, and make a living alongside elephants and lions?

People are likely to live with wildlife only when they have some realistic incentives to bear the costs of doing so. If wildlife doesn’t in one way or another form part of the livelihoods of people, it will inevitably make way for activities that do. For elephants, these incentives mean tourism and, yes, even trophy hunting.

Zimbabwe has the second-largest population of elephants in Africa at around 83,000 – more than three times as many as Kenya. Many live in formal protected areas, but many live on communal or privately owned lands. These animals are awe-inspiring, socially complex and likely emotionally profound, but for humans up close, they are also huge and dangerous with massive food and water needs.

Human-wildlife conflict is rife, with elephants destroying crops, houses and even killing people. This is set only to worsen as the needs of people intensify – Zimbabwe’s population growth rate of 2.3 percent is among the highest in the world. Almost two-thirds live below the poverty line, with more than 4 million people facing food shortages this year.

While the benefits of hunting for rural communities and as conservation incentives are often airily dismissed as insignificant or uncertain, they can be significant for livelihoods and catalytic for conservation. Between 2005 and 2010, hunting trophy fees generated approximately $11 million for communities in Zimbabwe, and of this, about $7.5 million came from elephants. A little more than half came from Americans. The total of all other benefits, including tourism, was $4 million.

Tourism can be a powerful driver of conservation in the right place, but it is a pipe dream in many of the dusty corners of the communal lands – unless tourists want to spend days travelling over bumpy roads with intermittent electricity and sharing their wildlife views with cattle and goats.

Some of the money – both from hunting and tourism – will never make it to the right people, and instead will go to elites. It’s far from perfect, but at least this business – at least some of the time – keeps these animals in their habitats.

In fact, Zimbabwe has witnessed the power of incentives, with a remarkable and large-scale shift of land use from livestock and crops back to wildlife in the late 20th century, thanks to policy reforms that made it possible for the private sector and community landholders to benefit from conservation. The CAMPFIRE program, which relies heavily on revenue from hunting, enabled communities on communal lands to see wildlife conservation as viable land use and not just a dangerous problem. Despite the government’s chaotic land distribution reforms over the past few decades, some large areas remain managed for wildlife under this program.

But now the tide of public opinion is turning sharply against trophy hunting, as it has done against the ivory trade, once a source of revenue for these same communities. This revenue might dry up forever, along with the conservation incentives they create to coexist with wildlife.

So what do we do? How do we create a future where giants have space to roam? The first step is to recognise that outrage from afar never solved a local problem. We need to hear the voices of local people. Well-meaning people in the West need to stop shouting and start listening.

Quirimbas: A Diver’s Paradise

“You won’t believe its beauty,” I heard our pilot Chris say, crackling and popping into the headset, over the whirring and grinding of the helicopter blades as we rose beating into the air. I was relieved to be making a welcome retreat from the dry heat and dusty red-sand streets of Pemba, northern Mozambique. “Ho-hum”, I thought to myself, having seen my fair share of pretty, palm-lined Indian Ocean islands.

As my eyelids grew heavy and the warmth of the cockpit lulled me into a stupor, I overheard an excited gasp from a fellow passenger: “There’s a baby!”

Simultaneously, Chris banked to the side, and I had no choice but to open my eyes. What I saw below woke me in an instant: three humpback whales, gliding through the ocean, blowing puffs of air like popcorn. Mother and calf, and a third whale – the ever-present midwife and escort.

An aerial view of Quilalea Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique © Azura Retreats

Further along, I saw another shoot of white water, a jet, blowing five to 10 metres into the air. As we approached, I saw that it was a line of blow-holes in the rock fringing an island. I was now completely wide awake. Instead of a snooze, as I thought it would be, it was a magical 30-minute flight northwards from Pemba, filled with whales, dolphins, baobab trees, mangrove swamps, reef-fringed islets, and dhows all intricately woven with the cleanest, bluest water I’ve ever seen.

The scene was now firmly set for four days of adventure on Quilalea, a tiny, uninhabited island, in the bluest of blue Indian Ocean that stretches 250 km northwards from Pemba to Palma.

Ocean adventures on the Quirimbas

From the moment the helicopter nudged the baobab-fringed helipad, to the moment my toes slipped into the azure soft, fringing ocean, to the moment I looked up and saw the bright blast of the Milky Way explode across the sky – or the moment the moons of Saturn bewitched me – I was in love with the Quirimbas and this 35 ha slice of paradise, Quilalea.

It felt like I had been dropped onto my own personal heaven. It was surreal and thrilling to think I had a whole island virtually to myself. I was taken back to my favourite childhood read, Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons, and I felt excited by the prospects for exploration that lay ahead.

I found myself in a remote part of the Quirimbas National Park. Established in 2002, this managed and protected area spans 7,500 km² of north-eastern Mozambique. Of this, 20% covers marine habitats while the remainder is terrestrial, and 1,522 km² of the park is designated a Marine Protected Area (MPA), one of only six in Mozambique. In 2008, the entire archipelago was nominated to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mozambique, astoundingly, has a total marine estate of a whopping 571,493 km² and its marine protected area coverage is a measly 2.2% of that. For an area that the WWF has labelled “being of globally upstanding importance for marine biodiversity”, the protected portion, as beautiful as it is, seems wholly inadequate. With this in mind, when I realised that I was finally in a marine protected area, there was even more reason for me to be impassioned about being in the Quirimbas.

Exploring the waters of Quilalea

I was travelling with fellow adventurers, award-winning free-diver Hanli Prinsloo, extreme kitesurfer, Marcus Bull, and fellow underwater photographer, Peter Marshall. Not wanting to waste any time, we had decided on an afternoon ocean safari. As I unpacked, I heard squeals of delight coming from the ocean side of my plunge pool. On investigation, I discovered Hanli and Peter already in the water enjoying a snorkel amongst the volcanic structures.

Quirimbas National Park is host to a spectacular variety of marine life, and the snorkelling here is magnificent © Fiona Ayerst

As I heard them pointing out rays and hunting fish to each other, I felt excited about the afternoon trip. Although I was tempted to relax on the gently swaying hammock outside my villa, I gathered my camera and swimsuit for the afternoon outing.

Whizzing around the island on the speedboat, I could see a pearl-white beach, waves frilling over the shallow reef. Quilalea is one of the 11 islands within the Quirimbas National Park. The sandy beaches are used as breeding sites by hawksbill, green and olive ridley turtles. Loggerhead and leatherback turtles are also present in these waters – as are several other ocean species that the IUCN lists as endangered. Some are resident and others migratory, but here there are regular sightings of dugong, great white sharks and whale sharks.

I was anxious to find another two species I’d heard we might see in this marine life haven. After a short search, we saw the first: a small pod of humpback whales, travelling in three as they so often do. I felt some of my anxiety slip away when we spotted a school of bottlenose dolphins and quickly put on our snorkelling gear. As I looked down, I could see the coral ‘bommies’ and a wave of anticipation washed over me.

Seeing dolphins underwater in their natural environment is a treat, and I knew the thrill that was coming. We dived off the boat, and within seconds the mystical, magical creatures approached, squinting sideways at our relative ungainliness. Moments with dolphins are hard to forget, and in this blue water, I added a memory to my bank and left the water happy and laughing.

We saw a massive flock of sooty terns darting into the cresting waves, chasing food. On closer inspection, a school of tiny silver baitfish was worth investigating as we saw them jumping out of the water to escape the hungry jaws of tuna. We dived in and looking down into the intense blue, I saw a squadron of at least five grey nurse sharks, reflected rays of sunlight straddling their grey backs. They came up to the 10-metre depth to look at us curiously and then slipped silently off, back to hunt tuna. I was impressed and encouraged that on this short trip, we had seen such a wide variety of marine life.

Back on the boat heading back to the hotel, hungry and happily-exhausted, our guide Predi delighted me further when she told me that I could look forward to the following morning’s scuba dive. There were hunting jacks, potato bass and tiny bubble shrimps on the ‘house reef’ here. I was intrigued.

Diving the house reef

I’d previously had the pleasure of walking a few steps from a hotel onto a reef so full of life, but far away, in Indonesia. I felt enormously privileged when Predi explained this was the only place in Mozambique with a ‘walk-in’ house reef. However, it was when she told me about the Napoleon wrasse, that Predi had me proverbially hooked. These inquisitive fish are a personal favourite, and I wasn’t sure I’d be able to sleep that night, for the waves of excitement I felt at the prospect of seeing them again.

That night, we ate dinner out on the warm beach. There was a sumptuous selection of food, and candles, stars and fine wine surrounded us. The next morning couldn’t come soon enough for me, and I joined Predi on the magnificent house reef. I walked right off the beach in front of the hotel and dropped bubbling down above huge, heads of coral spanning two to three metres and teeming with rainbow-coloured jewels.

Have a candlelit dinner on a warm beach, underneath a starry Mozambican sky © Azura Retreats

The dive was a drifting one, as the current spun us towards the open ocean and the hard corals soon gave way to splendid soft corals in bright reds, pinks and oranges. I saw giant anemones sheltering clownfish, and hunting lionfish, red and pouting, hanging over clouds of silver glassies. I spotted at least four turtles crunching on the reef, but as they heard our bubbles, they winged their way over the reef and out of sight.

The offshore reefs of the national park support a huge array of marine wildlife, including 52 coral species and 375 fish species. There are several different scuba dives a short boat trip away from Quilalea, but unfortunately, time didn’t allow for me to do any other than two on the house reefs.

Mangroves and marine magic

That afternoon we went on a kayaking trip over to nearby Seneca Island, which is also uninhabited unless you count the numerous mangrove crabs and mudskippers, or the birds such as herons, mangrove kingfishers or eagles that fish there. The seawater winds its way through the centre, from one side of the island through a tangled web of healthy huge mangroves out to the open ocean on the far side. As I paddled lazily between the mangrove trees, I heard the thundering of the breakers hitting the coral reef beyond the ‘coral rag’ rock wall.

Kayaking the mangrove swamps of Seneca Island in the Quirimbas National Park © Azura Retreats

I collected some seagrass that was floating on the surface of the water as we paddled. Perched on top of this grass, on their way to new homes, were hundreds of juvenile frogfish the size of peas. I was awash with pure delight – this find was the highlight of my time in the archipelago. It was a sign of the incredible life force and power of the ocean.

Dinner that night was a seafood banquet in the middle of a romantically lit baobab copse. I was looking forward to the following day, which was to be purely allocated to exploration and adventure.

As soon as we could, Hanli, Peter and I set off at low tide to walk over the sandy water-carved bars between the fringing coral reefs.

The substrate of the islands in this archipelago is composed of rag-coral and sand that has become bonded into a brittle, yet razor-sharp pockmarked rock. We watched mantis shrimp and golden eels jumping and hunting in the shallow 10cm of water and saw pink, green and purple parrotfish chomping at the shallow reefs. I was relieved to see scores of leopard cowries littering the weedy exposed reefs, striped golden mantles out, lying in wait, just like their cat namesakes.

I hadn’t seen so many live cowries since I was a child playing in the coral reefs of Mombasa, Kenya. We climbed intricate rock formations and scuttling crabs peered warily at us, with red and green pop-eyes. The rising water pushed us back onto the island. Before our post-exploration hunger pains got too intense, we opted for a spot of baobab clambering. I found that the solid, silver smoothness of a lofty baobab trunk also makes it impossible not to hug their bulging midriffs.

A late goodbye

The Quirimbas has adventure in store for everyone – from the person looking to relax and read in the sun, the spa lover, the outward-bound adventurer and the foodie traveller. A day trip from Quilalea to haunting Ibo Island will provide a chance to explore the stone walls of this ancient settlement, and even buy intricately hand-beaten silver jewellery from one of the silversmiths living there. Ancient palaces and villas lie littered and layered in moss – a photographer’s dream world.

An unforgettable helicopter flight between Quilalea Island and mainland Mozambique © Fiona Ayerst

On the final morning, we enjoyed a champagne breakfast picnic on the beach before our farewell, and as I had been baulking at leaving, I was late! As I hurriedly followed my bags back to the helicopter, I heard delighted giggles. I turned and jealously yelped a hasty farewell to Hanli and Peter as I glanced reluctantly sideways at them, snorkelling in the pristine shallows below the main pool deck. They were just where I wanted to be. I grinned, holding my tongue, my eyes wide shut, as Hanli shouted back: “There’s a huge reef down here buzzing with life. You won’t believe its beauty”.

This time, I did.

Life on Quilalea island

Quirimbas National Park info

The Quirimbas National Park is the largest marine protected area in Africa, located in the Cabo Delgado Province in the far northeast corner of Mozambique.

Established in 2002, the park covers coastal forest habitats, miombo woodland, granite inselbergs, mangrove stands, and coral rock islands. It includes some 7,500 km² (750,600 hectares) and stretches along 110 km of coastline on the Indian Ocean. The eleven most southerly islands from the Quirimbas Archipelago make up part of this national park, including Quilalea Island.

In total, there are over 30 tropical islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago that stretch approximately 250 km along the coast from the city of Pemba to the northern border of Mozambique, where it meets Tanzania.

History
An Arab trading post since 600 AD, the Portuguese didn’t even set foot on the Quirimbas islands until Vasco de Gama rested here in 1500. In the coming years, hostilities broke out between the Portuguese and Arab people over trading rights. After successfully razing the Arab fortifications in 1522, the Portuguese had assimilated the islands entirely by 1590.

Ibo Island then became the second most crucial Portuguese trading post after Ilha de Mocambique and would become the capital of the region known as Cabo Delgado. In 1902, the provincial capital of Cabo Delgado was transferred to what is now known as Pemba, leading to the gradual decline of trade and population in the islands.

People
Quirimbas National Park is unique in that it was created in response to requests from local communities and other stakeholders who wanted to resolve the myriad of problems that beset the Province of Cabo Delgado in general and the Quirimbas area in particular.

Approximately 55,000 people live in or around the park, and nearly all of these inhabitants rely directly on the Quirimbas resource base for their livelihoods. To date, local communities have been involved in all aspects of the development of the park, from the conceptualisation of the original idea through to planning, mobilisation, and implementation of initial management strategies.

An incredible view of this private island paradise — The best way to enjoy the view from this island paradise © Fiona Ayerst

Marine life
The park contains a wide variety of protected marine life including green, hawksbill and olive ridley turtles. Other protected species include humpback whales, the endangered humpback dolphins, sea horses and pipefish.

Seasons
Like the rest of the northern Mozambique coastline, the Quirimbas islands are subject to a humid equatorial climate and experience only two distinct seasons: a wet season and a dry season. The majority of rainfall occurs between December and April, with the rest of the year being cooler, dry, and sunny. Daytime temperatures vary from around 25°C (77°F) to 35°C (95°F), depending on the time of year. Water temperatures range from 24°C (75°F) to 27°C (81°F).

Azura Quilalea

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Azura Quilalea Private Island is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life, in a remote, pristine corner of Mozambique’s spectacular marine wilderness. Here, you can snorkel the island’s shores, dive the reef from the main beach, kayak amongst the mangrove swamps or relax in a hammock beneath the giant baobabs on the island. This is the ultimate private luxury hideaway, in a stunning and undiscovered destination – an untouched paradise for the adventurous traveller to discover.

About the author

Fiona Ayerst is a freelance adventure-sport and underwater stills photographer and journalist with a particular interest in sharks. She turned professional in April 2006 after practising as an attorney for twelve years – and hasn’t looked back since. She travels the world extensively and writes about adventure travel and conservation for various local and international publications. She also teaches underwater photography and runs specialist workshops for digital photographers on multiple locations around the east coast of Africa.

Land issues: The story of beauty and violence

Opinion post: Land issues: The story of beauty and violence, written by Peter Kanda

Land, an emotive subject, a limited resource that builds nations or breaks them. Use it well and you thrive, use it unwisely and you will sink to the bottomless pit of chaos and poverty.

Kenya is a beautiful country, blessed with beautiful coastlines, rich plains full of life, from the shores of Lake Victoria to the snow peaks of Mount Kenya. This is the home to roughly 45 million people. This is the home to 44 tribes of diverse ethnic backgrounds, cultures, languages and of a people with strong resolve. They are resilient and have been together through colonialism, through independence, through building of a democracy and united in difficult moments.

However, land is also an issue that evokes very strong emotions and reopens wounds of deep historical injustices that have never been resolved. The lack of resolution is because of a lack of political will and because the powerful elite, who are beneficiaries and often the perpetrators of these historical land injustices, maintain the status quo – and thereby continue to thrive.

History

Before the colonial empire landed on Kenya’s shores, Africa was booming with trade and the migrations and settlement of various communities. The Arabs and Chinese were already trading along the coast of Africa and those tribes along the coast thrived. These tribes had their own thriving culture, languages, religion. They had their own traditional setups to govern themselves through elders or rulers. This thriving life on the highlands or plains of Kenya would be brought to an abrupt end in the late 1800s.

The coming of the colonial empire to Africa was a blessing and curse at the same time. They demolished these societies ruthlessly and set up to rule in the most violent of ways. They separated families and took land from them. Right about this time is when the current land issues began in Kenya.

During the scramble for Africa, the British used lethal force on the natives, forcing and subjecting them to surrender. They relegated them from being human beings to creatures of oppression and yet still wielded the Bible and preached salvation. They took the most fertile of their lands and sent them to live together in a reserve. The reserve was generally unproductive, and they would put the natives in valleys filled with all kinds of diseases and insects, put them in swamps to make residence out of the reeds. They used forced labour to add value to the lands. They collected hut tax to enrich their colonies. They committed human atrocities on all counts, but none remained more significant than the land injustices.

When independence came knocking in early 1960s, some settlers left and others remained. Some sold the same land that was taken from the natives to the Kenyan elite. Some of the land was grabbed, some of the land was split and given back to the communities. Some areas remained with the settlers or the settlers sold it. One such area is Laikipia.

Laikipia

Laikipia is a beautifully serene and magical plain, with the backdrop of Mount Kenya. Laikipia is blessed with a beautiful savannah, with gentle ridges and timid valleys creating ideal places for lodges and getaway homes. The beautiful people who lived here and co-existed with wild animals for centuries were removed, in favour of a conservation colony. This is textbook African conservation.

However, the last century has seen different tidings for this expanse of land. It is unevenly divided between the huge land owners and the original inhabitants of the land. Almost half of Laikipia is occupied by different conservation-based owners, almost all white-owned. Roughly 36 individuals and families hold more than 30% of the land – the rest is community land, either small scale farmers who own small properties or public land. Most of the community land is situated in less productive areas.

These conservationists are doing a brilliant job in efforts to preserve the wildlife, but this is done to a great extent at the expense of the natives. Could this be the reason for the recent attacks? What are the sources of this conflict and how can we resolve the problems?

Map showing land distribution in Laikipia-Samburu ecosystem — © Festus W. Ihwagi, et al

The land

In Kenya land is classified in three ways: private land, public land and community land. Before colonisation or land-grabbing, Laikipia was originally community-owned, used for grazing and residence. Now, most of the land leases owned by conservationists are expiring or have since expired. To compound this problem, Laikipia County is surrounded by nomadic pastoralist communities who at times are well armed. They move from one area to another, depending on the season. With land as the central issue, several factors add fuel to the fire. The nomadic pastoralists are frustrated by drought, greedy opportunistic politicians and population growth.

Finding a resolution

How do we resolve this? How we ensure the community benefits more?

In my opinion, part of this land should be reverted to community land and adopt the same structure as the Maasai Mara. The Maasai Mara is owned by the Maa community. They use it to graze cattle and at the same time preserve the wild animals. This also poses some fundamental questions. Has wildlife been preserved without conservationists? Yes. Is conservation an important part of preserving wildlife? Yes.

The problem is that these conservationists benefit a few people financially and disturb the economic activity of the natives. Some conservationists have built schools or supported schools that are several kilometres away – rendering it impractical for the locals – and therefore being of little benefit for the larger population.

The interest of those few elite are overriding those of the natives. BUT is violence the way to solve this? Absolutely NO. No killing of another human being will solve this problem.

There has been a far wider coverage for the owners who are injured or killed compared to natives who are killed. Various media stations and blogs rushed to announce when Tristan Voorspuy was sadly killed on his Laikipia farm, and the British High Commission issued a statement. The Director of CID himself flew to Laikipia. But how many locals were killed during the unrest? How many media outlets covered it when hundreds of community-owned cattle were killed? Another example is the Kuki Gallman case (she was shot and wounded on her Laikipia farm). The bias is pretty obvious. All these biases gives way to neocolonialism undertones, it gives way to a silent imperialist rule that leaves a bad taste in the mouth of patriotic Kenyans.

A solution?

How do we solve this? Perhaps through dialogue? Some of the huge land owners in Laikipia are as Kenyan as the natives – they were born there, lived there and respect the locals. The government needs to create avenues through the Truth Justice and Reconciliation Commission. The government can also help the communities around these areas to develop alternative livelihoods and invest in developing facilities such as schools, medical dispensaries, and roads.

Lastly, the natives who have the sovereign power enshrined to them by the constitution need to elect leaders who are wise enough to not politicise the issue, leaders who will not use violence as a means to solve land issues. The beautiful land of Laikipia deserves to be preserved for generations.

Opinion: The trouble with trophy hunting

Opinion post: The trouble with trophy hunting, written by Frank Pope – CEO Save the Elephants

The news around the import of elephant trophies from Zimbabwe has put elephants into the spotlight over the last few days. Many of you, our supporters and partners of Save the Elephants, got in touch about the issue and we felt it important to let you know how we see it.

The later news that Trump blocked the decision is a positive sign that the conservation of elephants remains a concern regardless of politics. But it’s important to recognise why the US Fish & Wildlife Service lifted the ban on importing these hunting trophies in the first place.

Last week’s announcement reversed a decision the agency had made back in 2014. Before that for many decades American hunters were allowed to legally bring tusks back home from Zimbabwe. When the country could not provide data enough to prove that it was looking after its elephants adequately, the ban was put into place.

So what changed between now and then? Crucially, last year’s publication of the African Elephant Status Report by IUCN and the Great Elephant Count funded by Paul Allen showed that Zimbabwe’s elephants were being relatively well looked after. There were an estimated 2,000 elephants for the whole country in 1900 compared with up to around 80,000 today, the second-largest elephant population in Africa. Over the last 18 months, the country has done serious planning work for the conservation of its elephants, as US Fish & Wildlife set out in a thorough 40-page report. And part of Zimbabwe’s strategy for elephants involves trophy hunting.

While we don’t think that the existence of elephants in Zimbabwe would be endangered by trophy hunting, shooting elephants for pleasure is in our view morally indefensible. One should no more shoot an elephant for pleasure than a dolphin, a great ape, or a dog – a view that is shared widely in the civilized world. But it is trade in ivory, not trophy hunting, that is driving the catastrophic declines which continue in most elephant populations in Africa.

The timing of US Fish & Wildlife’s initial announcement was unfortunate. China is in the process of banning its domestic ivory trade, and glimmers of hope in the fight against poaching are starting to be seen in some key elephant populations across Africa. Against this backdrop, encouraging American hunters to kill elephants is very difficult to justify to the world. While trophies do not constitute trade, a policy that encourages hunting risks misinterpretation.

Trump’s intervention on the issue is welcome, but we believe that the poaching, trafficking and trading in ivory that we are fighting through the Elephant Crisis Fund are far more significant issues. In the past, the US has done strong, science-based and non-partisan work to solve them, and we hope they will continue to do so in the future.

Thank you so much for your support both to the Elephant Crisis Fund and to Save the Elephants’ work to forge science-based solutions for the long-term fortunes of elephants.

South Africa’s top tourist attractions

Colourful beach houses on St James, Muizenberg, Cape Town — Colourful beach houses on St James beach in Muizenberg, Cape Town

If there was a checklist for the perfect travel destination, South Africa would tick most of the boxes. Famed for its amazing wildlife and landscapes, superb local cuisine, warm hospitality and great weather, it’s easy to understand why tourism is so big in South Africa. With an average of 15 million visitors flocking to the country every year, the allure is strong.

We’ve put together a list of South Africa’s most popular tourist attractions, based on bookings by our safari desk:

Cape Town and the Cape Winelands

Nestled between a rugged mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It’s also one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Africa. This multicultural city enjoys a superb natural setting, pristine beaches, sophisticated infrastructure and a mild, Mediterranean climate.

A few city and peninsula headline acts include Table Mountain and Lion’s Head (the most iconic landmark in South Africa), the magnificent Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Boulders Beach for penguins that waddle along golden beaches in and amongst holidaymakers, the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the famous Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were imprisoned during the apartheid years) and Cape Point. And there is no shortage of world-class trendy restaurants and a vibrant nightlife for all tastes. It’s no wonder that Cape Town is the crown jewel of the country.

For the active traveller, the Cape Town peninsula is a treasure trove of hiking and mountain biking trails, kayaking and wind-surfing spots – in fact just about every physical outdoor pursuit is catered for within a relatively short radius of the city.

South Africa is famous for its award-winning wines, and some of the best wine in the country comes from the scenic rural outskirts within a short drive of the city – including Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Constantia and Robertson. Set against a picturesque mountain backdrop the Cape Winelands are among the most scenic in the world and feature many historic wine estates that date back centuries. The area is also home to charming boutiques, gourmet restaurants and five-star hotels. A drive through South Africa’s wine country is well worth the trip – especially if you’re not the ‘designated driver’!

Penguins on a beach — Penguins at Boulder’s beach in Simonstown, Cape Town

Kruger National Park and private reserves

South Africa’s iconic national park and one of Africa’s conservation success stories, the Kruger National Park is a must-do safari for any bush lover and for those keen on ticking off the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo) in a relatively short space of time.

The park and adjoining private reserves (Sabi Sand, Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat and Balule) that share its unfenced western border make up about 2,2 million hectares (22000km²) of varied bushveld with six ecosystem types, and are collectively referred to as the Greater Kruger National Park. Kruger’s vast size and variety of ecosystems results in a wide diversity of wildlife (including over 500 bird species) and some of the finest game-viewing in Africa.

In terms of wildlife, the sheer number and diversity of wildlife is almost unparalleled, making this the perfect place to spot the Big 5 and much more while out on a game drive, or even a guided walking safari. While Kruger National Park receives over 1.4 million visitors a year, you’d be surprised at how often you find yourself alone in the vast open spaces, giving you a truly authentic African wilderness experience. The national park offers self-drive options and affordable self-catering accommodation options, but there are also areas within the park boundaries set aside for the exclusive use of private lodges, and together with the adjoining private reserves to the west of the park, these private lodges guarantee exclusivity, low visitor numbers and sensational game viewing – where sightings of the Big 5 are almost a daily occurrence.

A safari in the Greater Kruger National Park is a must for first-timers and is also very popular with experienced bush-goers who go back year after year.

Viewing wildlife from a game drive vehicle — Watching buffalo pass by on safari in the Greater Kruger National Park © Simon Espley

Madikwe Game Reserve

The malaria-free 75,000 hectare (750 km²) Madikwe Game Reserve in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border, is favoured by those who want a Big 5 safari, but without the crowds sometimes associated with larger, more popular reserves. Madikwe does not permit day trippers or self-drive game drives, ensuring a private safari experience.

The dry Kalahari ecosystem offers an alternative to the Lowveld bush seen in the Kruger National Park, and so Madikwe offers some unique and exhilarating safari game viewing and photographic opportunities. Aside from the Big 5 species, Madikwe offers the chance to see wild dogs, cheetahs, brown hyenas and large numbers of plains game – and about 360 species of birds.

The absence of malaria plus easy access from Johannesburg via road and air makes Madikwe an excellent choice for family safaris, and some lodges even cater for children-friendly activities. The range of accommodation, from luxury to basic, means that there is something for everyone.

Madikwe is something of a success story for wildlife conservation, local community economic empowerment and private/public enterprise. The land and animals are managed by the state, private investors profit from the lodges, and three nearby villages benefit via sustainable jobs and skills advancement.

Elephant and game drive vehicle in Africa — An elephant drinks at a waterhole in Madikwe © Anton Kruger

Garden Route and Little Karoo

Sandwiched between vibrant Cape Town and the malaria-free Cape Game Reserves – are the idyllic Garden Route and Little (Klein) Karoo, together offering an unrivalled mix of experiences and adventures within a proverbial stone’s throw of each other.

The Garden Route offers a laid-back and intoxicating blend of beaches, lagoons, craggy mountains and ancient indigenous forests. Gorgeous historical coastal towns such as Knysna, Plettenberg Bay and Nature’s Valley offer a range of accommodations to suit every need, and the many smaller rural villages along the way each offer an authentic charm. While the spectacular landscape is enough to leave you awestruck, it’s worth exploring the many hidden nooks and crannies, where some of the true gems lie. Expect to unearth artist communities, wood cutter clans, fishing communities and many visitors who arrived on holiday and have never left this forested coastal paradise.

Whether you’re into rambling through art and craft markets, zip-lining through forest canopies, chilling on golden beaches or relaxing at a health spa, the Garden Route has it all in spades. You will be seduced by this charming haven and emerge relaxed and ready to resume your real life.

The Little Karoo lies inland of the lush Garden Route, just across craggy mountains that themselves harbor many wild and secret places. The dry semi-desert Karoo is a place of historical ostrich farms, olive groves, wine, the famous Route 62 and adorable habituated meerkats.

Knysna lagoon in South Africa — The view of the lagoon in Knysna, South Africa

KwaZulu-Natal

The northern coastline and bushveld of KwaZulu-Natal hosts one of the most diverse habitat matrices, endemic species strongholds, successful conservation projects and enthralling Big 5 safaris in Africa. And to top it all off, there are a wealth of cultural and ecotourism activities, miles and miles of sandy beaches with warm water and, for some reason, relatively few tourists.

Zululand and the Elephant Coast, where black and white rhinos recovered from almost going extinct, plays home to the mighty Zulu warrior and to iSimangaliso Wetland Park – Africa’s oldest protected area and South Africa’s first World Heritage Site. This is also the home of other renowned protected areas such as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, uMkhuze, Ndumo and Thembe, offering a wide array of habitats such as woodlands, wetlands, palm savannas and coastal forests. And amongst this vast network of protected areas are private game reserves such as Phinda, Pongola, Zululand Rhino and Zimanga, which offer luxury safaris to our discerning guests, with exceptional sightings of big cats, rhinos and elephants in addition to a host of other species.

For the avid birder, KwaZulu-Natal is not only a haven for colourful endemics, it also offers the best birding infrastructure in South Africa.

The adventurous can expect exciting walking safaris and a stunning coastline bathed in warm water and offering the best scuba in South Africa – with coral reefs, whale sharks, dolphins and breeding turtles.

For the history buffs, the battlefields of KwaZulu-Natal were the anvil that forged South Africa’s political past. The famous battlefields of Isandlwana, Blood River and Spionkop witnessed fierce clashes between British forces, Zulu warriors and ‘Boer’ soldiers.

So, if a combination of bush, beach and history is your thing, visit KwaZulu-Natal.

Drakensberg mountains — The Drakensberg landscape

Cape Game Reserves

For those seeking a malaria-free bush break closer to Cape Town than the traditional bushveld destinations, the Cape Game Reserves have much to offer, even for Big 5 fans.

Expect a range of dry bushveld types, from the vast and arid plains and mountains of the Great Karoo to the succulent Klein Karoo and the dense valley thickets of the Eastern Cape. You will even see big game in mountainous Cape fynbos habitat, in amongst the proteas and ericas. Some Eastern Cape reserves even offer boat trips down winding rivers for a day at the nearby idyllic beaches for that classic bush/beach combo.

Most Cape rural areas have been historically farmed, and many of the private and even government reserves are reclaimed farmland – a great success for conservation. Purists might prefer the classic upcountry game reserves of Kruger National Park, Madikwe Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal or the Kalahari – but others enjoy the proximity to Cape Town for their bush break.

Game drive vehicle in the bush in South Africa — A game drive vehicle exploring Sanbona Game Reserve in the Cape © Christian Boix

Kalahari

The vast malaria-free Kalahari offers a true desert safari experience – with endless vistas of red dunes and grass savannahs dotted with massive gnarled camelthorn trees, and the desert-adapted species that thrive here.

This unique ecosystem hosts a remarkable population of arid-specialist species, including the rare desert-adapted black rhino, Kalahari lions, cheetahs, wild dogs, springbok, oryx (gemsbok) and sought-after smaller species such as aardvark, honey badger, brown hyena, pangolin and aardwolf. There are also a few habituated colonies of meerkats that provide excellent photographic opportunities.

The absence of malaria makes the Kalahari an excellent choice for family safaris.

Black-maned lion walking with game drive vehicle in the background — A black-maned lion struts his stuff in the Kalahari © Christian Boix

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Video: Lots of gorillas, and luckily not much mist!

Mountain gorilla family © Stuart Sinclair

Mountain gorilla family in Volcanoes National Park — © Stuart Sinclair

Written by Sarah Addison

As part of our four-month trip around Africa, we decided to spend some of our time with the mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.

We were already making our way around Africa when we decided to book our gorilla trek. It was something we really wanted to fit in and after weeks of researching we decided to head to Rwanda and trek into Volcanoes National Park. It wasn’t until we arrived that we discovered the massive price hike the government had put in place for entry into the park – from US$750 per person for a single entry to $1,400 per person per entry. We were lucky to have booked prior to the price hike, the start of our luck in Rwanda!

This trek came at the end of our trip and money was tight, so we opted for just a one-day trek, whereas most travellers we had met were doing the usual two days of trekking.

When we arrived in Rwanda our driver picked us up and drove us through the mountains, stopping at the Kigali Genocide Memorial (which was well worth the visit) before heading onto our accommodation. The landscape was beautiful, with rolling green mountains and exceptionally clean streets – we spent the 40-minute car ride just staring out the window, taking it all in.

Male mountain gorilla — © Stuart Sinclair

Our second stroke of luck was the weather. The night before the trek we went to bed praying for good weather, and it seemed like they were answered as the next morning the weather was cold but clear – in fact exceptionally clear for the mountains!

We departed from our accommodation quite early in the morning and soon arrived at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters where we were put into our designated hiking groups. The locals gathered to perform a beautiful dance and music routine while the trekkers warmed up with a cup of tea. We then met our guides and took off into the park which was a short drive past dozens of farming properties.

Some of the trekkers in our group had hiked the previous day, saying that they had trudged for seven hours through thick mud, mist and rain before they reached their designated gorilla family. Quite the opposite was our hike, which was short and easy and only took two hours through sunshine and visible tracks before reaching a clearing where most of the gorilla family members were sitting.

I had imagined that when we first saw the gorillas we would be peering through thick vegetation, trying to spot them in the distance, but we were surprised to find ourselves in a large clearing, so close and with so many in perfect view. We spent the hour in the same spot watching the incredibly relaxed but lively family.

Two mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda — © Stuart Sinclair

We witnessed the baby gorilla in the group playfully fighting with his older brother (see video below), both flaunting chest-beating in all its glory. We were surprised by how calm they were in our presence. We were startled when a sneaky gorilla appeared out of nowhere, hovering nearby above our heads in the trees, and again when another one decided to casually and quickly walk past us within mere centimetres.

Because the gorilla family stayed in the clearing for the whole hour we had the chance to take plenty of photos, but also took time out to put the camera down and just enjoy their company without looking through a lens.

The next day we woke to discover a very thick fog had covered the mountains and sympathised for the hiking groups heading out for the day. We caught up with one fellow trekker afterwards and he emphasised how lucky we were to have the weather we did on our hike, as he was unable to see the gorillas as well through all the thick fog.

It was a gamble to travel that far for only one day of gorilla trekking, but thankfully we were fortunate to have had an extremely memorable experience – a very special way to end our trip.

Now Trump calls elephant trophy hunting a “horror show”

Sourced from third-party site: The Washington Post, written by Anne Gearan

President Trump called elephant hunting a “horror show” on Sunday and strongly suggested he will permanently block imports of elephant trophies from two African nations despite his administration’s earlier approval of the practice.

Following strong bipartisan criticism of the administration’s decision to allow imports of trophy carcasses, a practise halted under the Obama administration, Trump had moved on Friday to put the imports on hold. On Sunday, Trump said on Twitter that he would announce a final decision this week. He suggested that he does not buy the argument advanced by pro-hunting advocates within his Interior Department that the imports help protect endangered African elephants.

Trump wrote that he would be “very hard-pressed to change my mind that this horror show in any way helps conservation of Elephants or any other animal”.

It was not immediately clear whether the reference to “any other animal” might mean he is also reconsidering his administration’s separate lifting of import bans on lion trophies last month. That decision received little attention at the time but has since come under fire as the elephant decision received wide attention.

The president’s abrupt reversal on Friday means that elephants shot for sport in Zimbabwe and Zambia cannot be imported by American hunters as trophies.

“Put big game trophy decision on hold until such time as I review all conservation facts,” Trump wrote Friday evening on Twitter. “Under study for years. Will update soon with [Interior] Secretary [Ryan] Zinke. Thank you!”

That halted a decision by his own U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service on Wednesday to end a 2014 government ban on big-game trophy hunting in Zimbabwe and Zambia. Under U.S. law, the remains of African elephants, which are listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act, can be imported only if federal officials have determined that hunting them benefits the species more broadly.

Decoding Kruger’s ‘Elephant Management Plan’

Elephant eating in the Kruger National Park

DECODING SCIENCE POST by the AG Editorial team

The Kruger National Park is vast, at about 2 million hectares, and requires a thorough management strategy in order to ensure long term sustainability. Part of that strategy, The Elephant Management Plan (referred to as ‘the Plan” below) is currently in force and covers the period 2013 to 2022.

The Plan was compiled by Kruger management and Scientific Services, including some of the most experienced scientists and wildlife management personnel in the world.

The 82-page Plan is thorough and very detailed – for those who wish to find out more please click the above link, download the report, and read at your leisure (highly recommended).

For those that prefer a brief summary and broad strokes understanding of the strategy for Kruger elephant management, read on. This summary should not be seen as complete or comprehensive and any lack of detail or perceived bias (unintended) is a result of our wish to provide you with a broad understanding of the issues.

Here then, is our summary of Kruger’s Elephant Management Plan:

Brief overview

SANParks is managing the Kruger elephant population by restoring or mimicking the spatial and temporal aspects of the ecosystem that impact on elephant spatial use. In other words, let natural processes determine elephant populations and movement. This Plan contrasts with the previous elephant management strategy, which focused on attempting to limit elephant numbers.

There are major factors that impact on elephant populations and on where elephants currently choose to roam – primarily in search of water and food. Some of these factors have historically been introduced by man, examples being fences and artificial water points. Some of these man-induced contributing factors can be removed or altered significantly over time, and others are here to stay. Removing some of these factors generates its own set of consequences for elephants and beyond elephants. For example, removing certain artificial water points will in time suppress elephant population growth and encourage more natural (seasonal) use of that area by elephants – but it will probably also change tourist behaviour, and possibly make Kruger camps and privately-run lodges in the area less commercially viable. Tourists bring in the cash for elephant conservation. Circles within circles.

Elephants are long-lived creatures that will take time to adapt to the current strategy to mitigate the mistakes of the past, and this lag effect means that this is not a ‘one day game’, as they say in cricket. This is a long-term plan that has to deal as best it can with the short and medium-term consequences of historical strategies, while it builds its own momentum in the journey to restoring natural ecological processes. Remember that many of the major factors that influence elephant populations and movement are here to stay, so the likely end goal is not utopia. And this has to happen in a rapidly changing world, where human populations are growing rapidly, where conservation legislative changes are driven by political forces and where conservation funding is hard to find.

The Kruger Elephant Management Plan does not involve hunting or culling in the long run but it may involve culling as a short-term measure to address the influence of historical elephant management strategies on current elephant numbers and behaviour.

This is an extremely complex situation, involving 37 Kruger landscapes and multiple dynamic influencing factors – and so the Plan is accordingly dynamic, agile and reactive.

11 Contextual points to bear in mind (as extracted from the Plan)

1. SANParks overall objectives:

• maintaining, or restoring, ecosystem integrity;
• providing benefits to people;
• taking cognisance of aesthetic and wilderness qualities.

2. Ecosystems under SANParks custodianship are constrained through fencing, restricted size, historical addition of water, and/or missing species.

3. Elephants are a key system driver, and affect the ability of SANParks to achieve ecological, tourism and social objectives;

4. South Africa has only 4% (AG editorial comment: 4,8% as per the Great Elephant Census) of the elephants in Africa, and her populations are better protected and more intensely managed than elsewhere. In addition, they breed quicker, live longer and use landscapes more intensely than elsewhere;

5. The ecological effects of elephants vary considerably depending on rainfall, vegetation type, and landscape features and interpretation of these ecological effects is confounded by length of studies, synergistic effects of fire, other herbivores, drought, wind toppling, soil chemistry and water table;

6. Resource manipulation will affect elephant impacts over time and across landscapes, primarily by affecting elephant birth and death rates;

7. Elephants are long-lived – resulting in slow spatial and demographic population responses to the management strategies, and therefore delays in ecological responses,

8. The Ministry of Environment and Water Affairs permits the following actions to control wild elephant populations: Contraception, range manipulation, translocation, introduction of elephants, hunting, culling. The SANParks Plan as described in this article envisages all of the above EXCEPT for hunting and culling. However, when elephant numbers reduce the effects of restoration strategies, SANParks will, as a short- or medium-term measure, at appropriate places, implement non-lethal (e.g. contraception); and lethal (e.g. culling) control over elephant populations;

9. Historical approaches to species populations were based on a species carrying capacity model that was based on subjective opinion and ignored ecological complexity and flux over space and time;

10. Elephant population management history:

• Onset to late 1960s – preservationist i.e. no population management
• Late 1960s to 1994 – culling to control populations
• 1994 – moratorium on culling

11. Elephant population trends:

• 1900 – no elephants, due to hunting for the ivory trade
• 1905 – first elephant seen close to confluence of Olifants and Letaba rivers
• 1958 – most of Kruger populated by elephants
• 2008 – population estimate 12,930

Five key objectives of the Plan

Each of these five objectives is discussed in depth in the Plan, as are the many ways to achieve these objectives:

1. Restoring spacial limitations on the landscape, including mimicking natural water distribution, reducing artificial water points, acquiring additional land and removal of fences;

2. Addressing the consequences of historic management actions on the current situation, with short/medium term reactive actions that do not compromise current long-term objectives and the primary mandate of biodiversity conservation. These actions include primarily localised fencing and elephant removal through translocation and culling;

3. Stakeholder concerns and issues about elephants – continually engage all stakeholders about issues relating to elephants and act on the issues raised. The main stakeholders (in South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique) are local communities, private landowners and ecotourism operations.

4. The aligning of SANParks and Trans Frontier Conservation Area (TFCA) elephant management policies through appropriate bilateral approaches;

5. Ongoing adaption of this strategy through collaborative research agreements and internal and external review and measurement of management actions, on an annual, bi-annual, five-yearly and ten-yearly basis.

Public values about conservation are shifting

SANParks is required to balance various societal values and viewpoints, including:

• Safety and security – e.g. human-elephant conflict, damage-causing elephants and disease outbreak consequences;
• Human benefits – e.g. tourism, community beneficiation;
• Aesthetic and ethical issues – e.g. “existence” value of large trees and elephants, cultural resources;
• SANParks biodiversity mandate, values and conservation goals.

Elephant damage and conflict

Human interactions with elephants fall into two broad categories, namely:

1. Human-elephant conflict – when elephants cause damage to individuals, property and livelihoods. The Plan includes detailed instructions on how ‘problem’ elephants inside and outside of Kruger are to be dealt with. These are beyond the scope of this brief summary, but very interesting nevertheless.

• Elephants typically do not cause as much damage as primates, rodents and large predators;
• Management responses are typically reactive and involve fencing, elephant translocation, elephant culling and the use of deterrents;
• Restoring or mimicking natural resource distribution should theoretically reduce human-elephant conflict and elephant damage.

2. Tourism experiences

• Elephants are important drivers of tourist experiences, as a component of the Big 5 (rhinos, lions, leopards, buffaloes and elephants);
• Historically strategies revolved around bringing elephants to tourists – by use of artificial water points;
• SANParks will need to maintain some artificial water points in the short/medium term, to ensure continued tourist satisfaction.

How elephant populations reacted to management

Lessons learnt after a long history of elephant management:

1. In response to localised culling, elephant population growth decreased sharply in the year of culling, followed by excessively high population growth the year following culling – the net result was that at a local level no changes in elephant numbers took place as a result of culling;

2. In response to water provision, fences and fires, the situation is more complex. Fences restrict movement and prevent natural movement. When fences on the western side of Kruger were removed to allow wildlife to roam freely between Kruger and neighbouring private game reserves, those private game reserves experienced rapid growth of elephant populations, probably because the higher number of artificial water points attracted elephants from Kruger, which had started to remove some water points. Provision of water increases elephant birth rates and infant survival, as does management by culling;

3. Seasonal home ranges for individual elephants extracted from radio collared animals during periods of culling overlapped significantly more than anywhere else once the effect of rainfall and density has been accounted for. Culling, therefore, may thus have increased the intensity with which an individual elephant uses a specific landscape.

Impacts of elephants on vegetation

Little data exist to evaluate how elephant impact has responded to culling. The historical assumption that elephant impact is directly related to the number of elephants is challenged by the observation that limiting the elephant population did not prevent a decline in the structural diversity of the woody vegetation of Kruger. In addition, evaluations that focused on relating vegetation change to local dry season elephant density showed that vegetation diversity increased with high elephant density in certain regions of Kruger. The conclusion is however constrained by limited data.

Damage-causing elephants

Limited data suggest that incidences of damage caused by elephants may not be clearly related to how many elephants there are, but rather to management actions that alter where elephants can roam.

Diseases

Elephants’ impact on disease by breaking fences, thereby allowing buffalo to come into contact with livestock, therefore risking the spread of foot-and-mouth disease and bovine tuberculosis and impacting on agricultural and food security.

Tourism

The consequences of elephant management for tourism are unknown, although anecdotal evidence suggests increased aggressive interactions of elephants with KNP tourists as the elephant population has increased since the suspension of culling. In addition, major concerns have been raised by stakeholders from the private reserves west of Kruger that elephants are increasingly impacting on the aesthetics of these reserves by killing or pushing over large trees.

Implications of past management strategies

Past management strategies have included contraception, culling and live animal removal, fire control, fence erection and removal and water provisioning – each of these strategies has affected elephant behaviour, some of which behaviour still manifests today.

Kruger’s elephants are now part of a regional population, with fences having been removed in places (west into private South African game reserves and north/east into Zimbabwe and Mozambique) – and therefore are no longer spatially restricted to Kruger. Much of their current patterns of landscape use seems to be predicated on water availability. Despite the ongoing changes in management strategy, elephants continue to use certain landscapes intensely, due to lags in responding to change from historical strategies. Therefore, targeted short- to medium-term reactive management responses may be required. These could include excluding elephants from selected areas using fences, scaring elephants with noise disturbances and localised reduction in densities through removal by translocation or culling.

The most desirable outcome of elephant management strategies should be the achievement of a range of elephant densities and therefore intensity of landscape uses, from extremely low (<0.01 elephant/km²) to very high (>3 elephants/km²).

Elephant herd running down a dirt road in the bush

Delta Delight

Hannes Lochner is a multi-award-winning professional wildlife photographer. The ‘spirit of Africa’ has always fascinated him – especially the Kalahari. He lived there for five years so he could gain an extensive knowledge of the region.
His ability to tell a story through photos is genuinely extraordinary. He is a master when it comes to assessing the ideal light conditions to take the perfect photo – capturing the essence of wildlife and landscapes.
Hannes has many accolades, including the coveted BBC’s Veolia Wildlife Photographer of the Year award. Many of his photos and articles have been published in well-known international and local publications.
This gallery showcases a selection of awe-inspiring photos from his book, Planet Okavango – an evocative tribute to the wetland deltas of Botswana, its inhabitants, and its unique wonder.

Dry times
In the dry season, every animal needs to drink water. During this time of year, the predators take advantage of the weaker and smaller animals. Here a big male lion walks past a small elephant herd, making sure to safely keep his distance.

Eggs for breakfast
A southern ground-hornbill throws a blacksmith lapwing’s egg up before swallowing it. It finished off both eggs while the lapwings dive-bombed it to no avail.

The dentist
Two hyenas have a squabble over the remains of a leopard kill. Hyenas will scavenge and hunt when given the opportunity. They are accomplished hunters and get up to 75% of their food from their own kills. In the Okavango, the percentage may be even greater. They are renowned and highly effective scavengers and carrion can be detected by the smell from as far as 4 km downwind as well as the sounds made by other predators and scavengers.

Pink panther
The beautiful pastel shades of a summer cloud serve as an afternoon backdrop for a leopard on the lookout for possible prey. It is time to hunt.

Miss Castro
A giraffe nibbles and chews on a sausage tree fruit. It is eaten by several species of mammal, including baboons, bush pigs, elephants, giraffes, hippos, monkeys and porcupines. In short, everyone loves a vegetarian sausage.

Squirrel hunter
In the northern part of the Okavango Delta, a mother leopard with her two cubs are well known for hunting squirrels, even though the area where they normally hunt is covered with dense bush. When hunting, the cubs will drive the squirrels towards their mother – a great and successful collaborative hunting technique.

Cooling off
A hyena cools off after a 40ºC day in the middle of summer. Temperatures can reach 45ºC in the shade in certain areas of the Delta. Hyenas also swim or soak their bodies to get rid of ticks.

Backlit
While we were driving back to camp, a herd of around 30 elephants started crossing the road ahead of us, kicking up a cloud of dust. Another vehicle approached from the other direction, and I took the opportunity to photograph the elephants with the headlights of the vehicle behind them.

Splash
Carmine bee-eaters flock in their thousands in the Delta. On most afternoons, the birds will have a quick dip in the river. They will do this once only and then sit on a nearby tree, drying and preening their feathers.

Painted dogs
One of the most endangered species on Earth is the wild dog. The current population has been estimated at roughly 39 sub-populations, comprising of 6,600 adults, of which only 1,400 are fully grown. These populations continue to decline due to habitat fragmentation, human persecution and outbreaks of disease.

Morning roar
Winter mornings in the Okavango Delta can get as cold as -2ºC. On this particular morning, I placed the lion between myself and the rising sun and was able to capture the steam – backlit by the sun – coming from his muzzle. This was a longtime dream composition of mine since my Kalahari days more than seven years ago. After two years in the Delta, I eventually managed to achieve this evasive goal. Patience makes all the difference.

Dusty halo
An elephant bull is chased by another from a small dam. Elephants get possessive over waterholes during the dry season, which can result in large bulls fighting, contesting residency. In this photo, the dust had formed a beautiful halo around the waterhole, where hundreds of elephants waited for a turn to drink.

Digging for gold
A honey badger digs in the sand for mice. They locate their prey predominantly by their acute sense of smell and catch most of their prey through digging – as many as fifty holes may be dug in a single foraging period.

Morning dew
A small orb spider collects water droplets to drink, formed on its web by fog in the early morning of the colder months in Moremi Game Reserve.

Angel
A yellow-billed stork flies up to its nest. As with all stork species, male yellow-billed storks select and occupy potential nest sites in trees. They then display various behaviours to advertise themselves, after which females attempt to approach. One of these behaviours is display preening, in which the male pretends to strip down each of his extended wings with his bill several times on each side, but the bill does not effectively close around the feathers.

Water lion
With so much water in the Okavango Delta during the months of plenty of June to September, lions have to adapt and move from island to island for prey. These lions are quite used to swimming, but huge crocodiles lurk in the waters and sometimes feline predators themselves become the prey of the fearsome reptiles.

Curiosity
Nine lions had caught a giraffe and spent over five days consuming it. Every evening they moved from the bush where the kill was to an open area to lie under the stars. I set up a hidden camera on the path and remotely triggered it. The grass was long and wet from the rain, so I tried to incorporate both the grass and the lion by pointing the camera upwards at a 50-degree angle. When a lion cub walked past the camera, and I triggered it from a safe distance.

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US to lift elephant trophy ban

Sourced from third-party source: CNN, written by Gregory Wallace

US authorities will remove restrictions on importing African elephant trophies from Zimbabwe and Zambia.

That means Americans will soon be able to hunt the endangered big game, an activity that garnered worldwide attention when a Minnesota dentist took Cecil, perhaps the world’s most famous lion, near a wildlife park in Zimbabwe. A US Fish and Wildlife Service spokesman said the move will allow the two African countries to include US sport hunting as part of their management plans for the elephants and allow them to put “much-needed revenue back into conservation”.

Critics, however, note the restrictions were created by the Obama administration in 2014 because the African elephant population had dropped. The animals are listed in the US Endangered Species Act, which requires the US government to protect endangered species in other countries.

“We can’t control what happens in foreign countries, but what we can control is a restriction on imports on parts of the animals,” said Wayne Pacelle, president and CEO of the Humane Society. The number of elephants in the wild plummeted 30% overall between 2007 and 2014, despite large scale conservation efforts. In some places, it has dropped more than 75% due to ivory poaching. In 2016, there were just over 350,000 elephants still alive in the wild, down from millions in the early 20th Century.

Pacelle, who opposes the decision, told CNN it means “elephants minding their business are going to be gunned down by rich Americans”. Safari Club International, a worldwide network of hunters, cheered the announcement.
“We appreciate the efforts of the Service and the US Department of the Interior to remove barriers to sustainable use conservation for African wildlife,” SCI President Paul Babaz said in a statement.

President Donald Trump’s sons Donald Jr. and Eric are themselves big game hunters. Photos posted in 2012 by the website Gothamist show Donald Jr. holding an elephant tail. The website says the photos were from a 2011 hunt in Zimbabwe. When Donald Jr. addressed the photos at the time, he did not deny their authenticity or where they were taken. “I can assure you it was not wasteful,” he posted on Twitter, adding, “The villagers were so happy for the meat which they don’t often get to eat”.

Pacelle, of the Humane Society, noted that corruption in the Zimbabwean government was a concern when the US banned trophy imports from the nation in 2014. Zimbabwe is currently in a leadership crisis, after the military seized power this week and placed President Robert Mugabe under house arrest.

Opinion: Too many lions in Kunene

Five desert-adapted lions in Namibia — © Desert Lion Conservation Foundation

Opinion post: Too many lions in Kunene, written by Garth Owen-Smith

We live in a world where social media is overriding professional journalism and scientific research as our source of information about the world around us.

The mobile phone, a simple tool that increased access and made communication cheaper, has now become a smartphone, which has opened Pandora’s box of tweets, amateur blogs and Facebook pages that are undermining reliable reports getting to decision-makers and the general public.

The entertaining, but potentially catastrophic Donald Trump show in the United States of America is a good example. But the phenomenon is worldwide, including in Namibia.

Apart from providing misinformation, social media can also be intimidating. A decision-maker who receives hundreds or even thousands of emotional tweets or emails from persons who may be well-meaning but do not understand the situation can be influenced in how he/she responds to an issue.

In Namibia, this includes the major lion problems faced by livestock farmers in the Kunene region.

In my previous article in The Namibian, based on over 35 years of conservation work in the north-west and north-east of Namibia, I explained that the present human-lion conflict being experienced there was to be expected after rains fell at the end of a prolonged drought.

Put simply, during droughts, predator numbers increase because hunting is easier, while their prey populations decrease due to little or no reproduction, higher drought-related mortalities and increased predation. In communal areas, this predator/prey imbalance causes lions to turn on the easiest alternative available – the local farmer’s livestock.

Whether tourism operators and armchair lion-lovers like it or not, there are now too many lions in some parts of the Kunene region, especially in Torra and other conservancies bordering on the Palmwag, Etendeka and Hobatere tourism concessions.

Trying to save the lions that are killing livestock, or harassing the farmers who kill them, including impounding their firearms, will not serve the interests of conservation in the region.

Ecologically, this is because their present high numbers inhibit the recovery of gemsbok, zebra and kudu populations, which is essential to create a more balanced predator/prey relationship in the future. But it is important because it has caused many local farmers to rethink whether conserving wildlife is a benefit or liability to their livelihoods.

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, a similar drought situation prevailed. But then, professional hunter Volker Grellman, senior nature conservator, the late Chris Eyre, and staff of the Namibia Wildlife Trust (where I worked at the time) assisted in reducing the lion population.

The support to the farmers in their time of need undoubtedly played a crucial role in our getting the traditional leaders and local communities’ support in stopping the major poaching of rhino and elephant occurring then.

In 2015, local information led to the arrest of 10 rhino poachers. In this year, there have been at least six cases of community members alerting the environment ministry or police of poachers from outside the area before they had killed a rhino.

Recently, seven arrests were made after a rhino was poached in the Grootberg area, hopefully bringing to an end the poaching there, the only part of the Kunene region where rhino have been killed since 2015.

The Torra Conservancy has also increased the number of its rhino rangers to nine, with 36 more rhino rangers patrolling in other conservancies that have rhino.

The local communities are thus bringing their side to stop rhino poaching. The environment ministry now owes it to them to not be influenced by Facebook conservationists, and instead assist the livestock owners in dealing with the lion problems they are facing.

In a recent survey, Anabeb Conservancy farmers reported that over 80% of their cattle and 50% of their small stock died in the drought which ended this year. Since then, 71 cattle and 130 small stock have been killed by lions (with many more by other predators).

In spite of most of them having less than 10 cattle left, and some none at all, 34 out of 40 Anabeb farmers still said it was important to have lions in their conservancies for tourists and their children to see, but that in livestock areas, the people’s livelihoods must come first.

There is also the threat to human lives. At the end of the drought in 1982, an emaciated lion went into a hut at Sesfontein, and killed and ate a small child. Twice this year, rhino monitors have been attacked by lions. In Torra Conservancy, two male lions shot on the carcass of a cow they had killed were found to be extremely thin.

In Kunene recently, while we were sitting around our campfire at night with guests from India, eight lions approached us, the closest coming to less than 15 metres. This was in spite of the fact that people were moving around the camp preparing dinner.

With the recent rains in western Kunene, the game will become more dispersed and harder for lions to hunt, causing livestock losses to increase.

A starving lion is also a potential man-eater, and while cattle can be compensated for, human lives are irreplaceable.

Problem lions announcement: Conservationist challenges Namibian minister

Desert-adapted lions in Namibia — © Ingrid Mandt

Written by Dr Ingrid Mandt (Namibian born and bred)

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE MINISTER OF ENVIRONMENT AND TOURISM – HONOURABLE POHAMBA SHIFETA

I refer to the recent human-lion conflict incidents in the Kunene region in Namibia where over 250 livestock have been killed by marauding lions over the past week.

With reference to the press release by Mr Romeo Muyunda on behalf of the Minister or Permanent Secretary I have the following concerns.

1) I quote: “The MET has taken a decision to capture and translocate this pride of ten to fifteen lions to areas where they will not cause any conflict with people”.

• Considering the logistical challenges, cost and the low historic success rates proven and obtained through translocation of lions, is this option feasible? By comparison, would it not be more effective to identify key lions in conflict-prone prides and dart and collar them with VHF/GPS collars? Would this not be more likely to become a “blanket solution” in conjunction with preventative measures like kraal upgrades and good husbandry by farmers?

Removing the lure of easy pickings through the aforementioned and adding the early warning/monitoring system and chase-offs by response units will surely be effective. Primarily “problem” animals, e.g. like baboons being fed by humans, are “cultivated” as such and without the temptation/lure simply do not develop an interest in human settlements.

2) I quote: “If there are challenges in capturing specific individual lions of this pride, then such individuals will be destroyed, but our first priority is to translocate these animals”.

• As mentioned above, capturing and darting a pride of 10 to 15 lions will be practically very, very challenging and the likelihood of challenges arising from capturing them is high. This translates to the very real possibility of having to shoot some or many of them which in turn poses the possibility of the exercise turning into a bloodbath which will not resonate well in the tourism industry.

Also, killing them indiscriminately without consideration of social standing in the pride purely based on “challenges posed through capturing” will have a knock-on effect of its own. All in all, even if you bait them, it might turn into a logistical nightmare, whereas singling out two or three and darting/collaring them should be far easier and likely to succeed.

3) I quote: “We will continue to keep to other ways to prevent and mitigate such conflicts and therefore manage the situation. A variety of approaches can be implemented in order to manage the conflict efficiently and effectively. These include prevention strategies which endeavour to avoid the conflict occurring in the first place and take action towards addressing its root causes, and protection strategies that are implemented when the conflict is certain to happen or has already occurred, as well as mitigation strategies that attempt to reduce the level of impact and lessen the problem … Response to the conflict should be quick … Population numbers should be maintained to scientifically accepted carrying capacities”.

• With all due respect, and correct me if I’m wrong please, NONE of the above-mentioned actions has been executed by the MET, at least in the Kunene region, and it remains just empty promises and this had been the case for many years now, hyping up frustration and criticism aimed at your office in the process.

• Based on which scientific recommendations do you suggest the numbers to be maintained? Is it not so that the current researcher’s reports are outdated and not relevant anymore in terms of currency? Also, why should it be necessary to manage population numbers in an open system like the Kunene region? Surely, by removing livestock predation through effective HWC management, prey density should govern predator populations naturally and in harmony with nature?

• Is there any truth in the theory that surfaces more and more frequently that creating problem animals is part of a strategy to provide trophies of iconic species to the likes of the Dallas Safari Club and others? Even the researcher has referred to such exploitation in his 2010 report on gender skewing through the hunting of lions.

It is feared that this would be the ideal strategy to circumvent restrictions pertaining to proof of sustainability of species and avail high-priced, rare, desert-adapted animals to the hunting fraternity. This is fast becoming a serious concern to the non-consumptive tourism industry stakeholders and tourists. How can you reassure them? Just what does the agreement with overseas hunting institutions entail, what undertakings had been given by Namibia against what reciprocation and how is it structured?

4) I quote: “The Ministry of Environment and Tourism takes issues of Human-Wildlife Conflict Management seriously … if not addressed … and managed effectively, can harm if not destroy conservation efforts and tourism benefits for the country. We recognise this threat and in this regard, we are currently finalising the review of the National Policy on Human-Wildlife Conflict … Under this policy, a Human Lion Conflict Management Plan for North West Namibia has been developed and will be implemented fully“.

• Although we see and read of many, many meetings in this regard, with all due respect we are not aware of ANY tangible proof and has not seen any action undertaken in this regard. The policy-making and HWC Plan has received much media coverage but up to now I have not read about nor seen anything in the area undertaken or implemented by the MET with regard to its undertakings and mandate in this respect.

Surely the MET could in the interim, pending the promulgation of the new policy, act on the previous HWC Policy as it stands and execute it? Many farmers will agree that the reason they have killed/shot/poisoned lions was because of the lack of commitment and support from the MET which compelled them to take matters into their own hands. If needed I can come up with quite a number of statements corroborating this from them. The help they got from us, was up to now, all they got, even though it was not encouraged or recognised by the MET. Why is this?

• It sometimes occurs to me that there might be parties that do not want to see HWC Management/Prevention/Mitigation succeed as it would impact on their interests, being the opportunities arising to obtain trophy permits from “problem animals” generated by the failure of HWC prevention. This is in line with the policy to rather “derive value” from a problem animal by selling the trophy than “waste it”, which would ring logic if the lines did not seem somewhat blurred by the window of opportunity it affords and the potential for exploitation and abuse like we have seen recently in the Ugab valley pertaining to the shooting of Kambonde and Tusky.

Could the honourable minister please put our minds to rest regarding this? Our questions directed to the MET remains unanswered regarding this despite promises that it would be answered.

A response to this letter would be prudent and appreciated as it reflects the concerns of many citizens of Namibia as well as a large number of visitors to Namibia.

Lion pride kills over 250 livestock in Namibia in one week of carnage

Dead goats killed by lions in Namibia — The 86 livestock recently killed by lions © Republikein

Sourced from various third-party sites: The Republikein, written by Francoise Steynberg, and The Namibian, written by Adam Hartman, and Facebook page of Izak Smit

Over 250 goats, sheep and donkeys have been killed by the same pride of 10-15 desert-adapted lions in Namibia’s Kunene region.

News just breaking, is that 171 goats and sheep were killed last night, with eight missing, just south of the first incident of last week (detailed below). The pride of desert-adapted lions (estimated 10-15 in number) roam the Etendeka Klipriver, Khoadi Hoas areas in arid north-western Namibia. Conservationist Izak Smit reported that these livestock were kept in old kraals that are not lion-proof. Smit lamented to Africa Geographic that attempts are being made to supply building material to make livestock safe from predators, but that lack of funds and feet on the ground is frustrating efforts. Smit noted that these losses are devastating for livestock farmers, who lose their entire livelihoods to lions, and that a solution has to be found to protect farmers and lions.

The first incident occurred on Wednesday last week, when a total of 86 goats and sheep, worth about N$150,000, were killed by the lions in a kraal belonging to one communal farmer.

The attack took place at Awantapos in the Torra Conservancy where farmer Samuel Gawiseb keeps his goats and sheep in a small kraal.

According to Gawiseb’s neighbour, Anthony Dawids, who saw the carnage, the farmer’s herder was alerted to the lions when a dog started barking. He stepped out and saw the lions at the kraal, but returned to the house as he could not risk his life with so many predators. His dog, however, was not fortunate and was also killed.

The lions managed to get into the kraal, killing the sheep and goats. Only 13 kids remained when the pride eventually left. “He suffered a serious loss. It was his entire livelihood, and how does one take care of the kids when the mothers are dead?” Dawids said.

He added that Gawiseb was in the process of modifying his kraal into a modern design, which would have had an 80% success rate in deterring lions from entering the kraal.

“Unfortunately, he was not done when the lions came. We are challenged here with these predators, and the impression is that the government and other organisations which deal with lions and human-wildlife conflict are not working hard enough to help,” Dawids lamented.

The chameleon the size of a house cat: 7 fascinating facts

Large Parson's chameleon sitting on an arm — The cat-sized Parson’s chameleon, taken at the reptilarium, Réserve Peyrieras, in Madagascar © Christian Boix

The Parson’s chameleon (Calumma parsonii) is the largest chameleon in the world. Found in the lush rainforests of eastern and northern Madagascar, the Parson’s is a magnificent reptile to behold.

Here are some fascinating facts about this giant creature of the forest:

• There are two subspecies of Parson’s chameleon, the Calumma parsonii cristifer grows up to 45cm, while the larger Calumma parsonii parsonii grows up to 68cm – about the size of a domestic cat!

• They come in a variety of colours, from green, turquoise and yellow. The lips and eyelids of adults are sometimes yellow or orange and there may be pale yellow or white spots on the flanks.

• They are able to change colour in response to temperatures, their surroundings or the presence of other chameleons – such as when mating or fighting.

Large chameleon in a rainforest — © Paolo Torchio (featured in the Africa Geographic 2017 Yearbook)

• This chameleon is listed on CITES Appendix II, meaning that trade in this species is regulated.

• The Parson’s is listed as Near Threatened by the IUCN, mainly due to habitat loss through slash-and-burn agriculture.

Green and black chameleon — © Christian Boix

• A female Parson’s only mates once every two years, and can lay between 20 to 50 eggs in a nest dug in the ground. Those eggs can take up to two years to hatch!

• The Parson’s likes to eat a variety of foods, including insects, small lizards and birds. They have been known to also eat vegetation such as flowers and fruit.