Page 28 – Africa Geographic

Video: How cracks in an elephant’s skin keep it cool

An in-depth study of the African elephant’s wrinkly skin has revealed how its intricate design helps to keep the animal cool, protect it from parasites and prevent dehydration.

African elephants are well-known to love bathing, spraying, and mud-wallowing. These behaviours are not just for fun. Indeed, elephants lack the sweat and sebum glands that allow many other mammals to keep their skin moist and flexible.

Furthermore, because of their huge body size, and their warm and dry habitat, African elephants avoid over-heating by losing energy through the evaporation of the water they collect in and on their skin. By covering themselves with mud, elephants also avoid the attacks of relentless parasites and the excessive exposure of their skin to solar radiations.

Researchers from the University of Geneva (UNIGE) and the Swiss Institute of Bioinformatics have now worked out how these cracks, or what at first glance looks like folds and wrinkles, are formed, and how the skin – which is made up of an intricate network of minuscule, micrometre-wide channels – can retain five to 10 times more water than a flat surface would.

Published in a report in the journal Nature Communications, the researchers were able for the first time to show how these tiny channels on the elephant’s skin form, using customised computer simulations that model the growth of the elephant’s skin based on CT scans of the real thing.

The researches found that the elephant’s skin channels are true fractures of the animal’s brittle outermost layer of skin – the stratum corneum. The accumulation of layers of deeper skin as an elephant ages forces the brittle stratum corneum to bend around the mounds, which then cracks from mechanical stress as the elephant moves. These cracks then join to form channels that collect water and help the animal to stay cool.

In this regard, the cracks are not considered to be folds or wrinkles in the traditional sense.

Full report: António F. Martins, Nigel C. Bennett, Sylvie Clavel, Herman Groenewald, Sean Hensman, Stefan Hoby, Antoine Joris, Paul R. Manger, Michel C. Milinkovitch (2018). Locally-curved geometry generates bending cracks in the African elephant skin. Nature Communications. DOI: 10.1038/s41467-018-06257-3

Watch a video showing in detail the skin structure of the African elephant:

Cannibal cobras

Cape cobra eating smaller Cape cobra — A Cape cobra male consumes a smaller male of the same species in southern Africa, a display of cannibalism thought to be rare among the species © Bryan Maritz.

Press release by Ecological Society of America (ESA)

Last spring, researchers in South Africa’s Kalahari Desert found a large male cape cobra devouring another smaller male of the same species. Surprised by the thought-to-be-rare event, they decided to investigate how common and widespread cannibalism was in cobras.

Apart from a few species, scientific understanding of snake diets is lacking. Snakes are elusive creatures that feed relatively infrequently, making feeding observations difficult to come by. Bryan Maritz, a researcher at the University of the Western Cape and lead author of the new study in the Ecological Society of America’s journal Ecology, explains, “This work highlights a renewed effort to meaningfully quantify several aspects of snake natural history, especially in poorly studied regions such as Africa.”

While Cape cobras (Naja nivea) are known to eat other snake species – up to a third of their diet – recorded instances of Cape cobras eating individuals of the same species, known as conspecifics, has been extremely rare. Scientists have treated such reported observations as aberrant behaviour.

Researcher inspecting sociable weaver nest and a Cape cobra — **Left:** Study co-author Robin Maritz inspects a sociable weaver nest for cobras. **Right:** A Cape cobra peers down from a sociable weaver nest © Bryan Maritz

So, what caused this Cape cobra to attack and eat the smaller male of its kind? How often does this happen? Do all cobras take part in cannibalism?

Maritz and fellow researchers in the southern African region were studying resource competition between two African snake species when they saw the rare cobra cannibalistic display that inspired them to conduct the new study. Snakes provide a unique opportunity to examine both cannibalism and when animals hunt and eat snakes (ophiophagy) because of their shape – prey fits easily into the predator’s mouth and body for consumption and digestion.

“Cobras” consist of about 30 species, six of which were included in the study. Results suggest that not only do wild cobras frequently eat other snakes – snakes accounted for 13-43% of all species they consumed – but also that cannibalism may be somewhat common as well, given that five of the six species displayed the behaviour.

Interestingly, Cape cobras ate conspecifics in surprising abundance – the only species they consumed more frequently was puff adders. Additionally, the researchers only found males engaged in cannibalism events, as prey or predator, hinting that this might impact intrasexual competition. This raises the question of whether cannibalism evolved from a male-male combative behaviour, considering that male-male combat in cobras typically includes biting.

Understanding how snakes interact with not only other species but also with individuals of their own, can provide a basis for learning about more complex behaviour in different scenarios. If their ecosystem warms drastically and food becomes scarcer, will snakes engage more often in cannibalism? If cannibalism drives snakes to select for larger sizes, what effect will that have on the other kinds of prey they eat? Maritz hopes that “improved understanding of snake ecology and feeding, in general, will help to highlight the ecological functional roles that snakes are performing in African ecosystems.”

Cape cobras occur are found throughout the Western Cape‚ Northern Cape‚ Eastern Cape‚ Free State‚ and North West Province in South Africa. They are also found in the southern half of Namibia‚ southwestern Botswana‚ and western Lesotho.

Full report: Bryan Maritz, Graham J. Alexander, Robin A. Maritz. (2018) The underappreciated extent of cannibalism and ophiophagy in African cobras. Ecology. doi: 10.1002/ecy.2522

Kenya’s Shaba National Reserve: Wild Africa at its best

Maurice Schutgens in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Shaba National Reserve, deep in northern Kenya’s expanse, is a stunning wilderness area of dramatic gorges, open plains and extinct volcanoes. Made famous by the special bond between man and beast, namely Joy Adamson and the lioness Elsa (subjects of the 1966 film Born Free), Shaba is an incredible destination drenched in history and just waiting to be explored.

I arrived at the entrance to the reserve full of excitement.

“You don’t want an armed guard?” the reserve ranger asked rather surprised after I had signed in.

“No thanks. I do this all the time. I like exploring places by myself. Plus, nothing ever goes wrong!” I replied confidently.

So much for those words…

Land Cruiser in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

The reserve opened up before me. The landscape was staggeringly beautiful. But it was almost completely devoid of life.

I saw a herd of nervous Grevy’s zebras, a couple of gerenuks sticking out their awkwardly long necks from behind some bushes, and a lone male waterbuck eyeing me suspiciously.

Waterbuck in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

It was strange. Across the road in Samburu National Reserve I would have tripped over a hundred elephant trunks already, but here in Shaba there was nothing. Maybe it was seasonal. Still, the park’s beauty was undeniable – wild Africa at its best.

Landscape in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

I parked my Land Cruiser and climbed a nearby hill to take in the views from above. I spotted a small herd of buffalo in the distance as the wind tore at my clothes. It didn’t get better than this.

Naturally, that’s when things went sideways.

Dried up lake in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

The car didn’t start. Excellent. Just excellent. I looked down the valley in the distance searching for a sign of life. Nothing. I hadn’t seen a single other vehicle the entire day. I was on my own. I got to work.

An hour later, caked in oil and dirt, I threw in the metaphorical towel. I had fiddled with the battery terminals, bled the fuel from the filter and generally aimed a bunch of obscenities at my car. He’s called Ali. He wasn’t having any of it. Try as I might he wouldn’t start. A plane passed low overhead, I waved, but the pilot didn’t as much as tip the wings to acknowledge me. He disappeared into the halo of the sun.

Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

I was out of options. I climbed a nearby hill and waited, scanning the horizon. Nothing. Suddenly, a glint in the distance. Then it vanished, almost as if I had imagined it. I rubbed my eyes. Then it reappeared. A car. It did not come my way, but I had a feeling that I could intercept it if I was quick.

I headed for a track in the distance.

“Do you guys mind giving me a jumpstart” I asked politely, breathing heavily.

The Dutch tourists in the car were as surprised as anyone to find another Dutchman in the middle of the African wilderness. They couldn’t really say no to my request.

River in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Bodich Mountain towered over my campsite on the banks of the mighty Ewaso Ng’iro River that night. A large Nile crocodile slipped into the water, disturbed by my presence.

I awoke at midnight and photographed the stars. It was a peacefully magical night. A leopard roared nearby. Shaba was alive and I loved it.

Nile crocodile in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

As I headed back out of the reserve in the morning I spotted a leopard’s tracks in the soft sand clear for all to see.

Somewhere in this barren landscape a predator still roams.

Tent and Land Cruiser in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Etosha through my eyes

There is a distinct excitement in the air as we make our way through the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern side of Etosha National Park in Namibia. The sun has just risen, dappling the mopane shrubs lining the road in mottled shades of gold and green.

Barely a few minutes into the park, and we are greeted with the astonishing sight of a large martial eagle sitting on the carcass of a Damara dik-dik, the second smallest antelope in Africa. The guide tells us that this particular eagle specialises in preying on the diminutive dik-diks.

Cheetah walking in Etosha National Park — “I see you too!” in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Dave Gale

Our senses heightened by this bizarre encounter, we head to Klein Namutoni, the first waterhole on our journey. Luck is with us today; there is a pride of lions lying close to the water’s edge, claiming the waterhole for themselves and keeping everyone else at bay. The male is draped over the remains of a wildebeest, chewing away on a leg and keeping a beady eye on two opportunistic black-backed jackals hovering in the background. A few giraffes are standing in the distance, casting a wary eye in the direction of the lions, while some impala and kudu cautiously mill about.

We are in absolute awe of these beautiful, powerful predators and of the eternal cycle of life and death so vividly depicted before us. Shutters are clicking away wildly, and the lions are oblivious to the interest they are generating.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lions on giraffe carcass* © Janine Avery; 2) *Male lion resting after feeding on a giraffe kill* © Bart Breet; 3) *A ‘whispering’ lion couple in strong wind* © Johan J. Botha

Etosha is a stronghold for lions, with an estimated population of 450 to 500; a significant drawcard for tourists and certainly one of the many reasons I return again and again.

The summer temperature is rising; it is late November, and 40°C is on the cards for this time of year. It is advisable to bring plenty of sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, insect repellent and long, loose clothing to keep the heat and mosquitoes at bay. The winter months are considerably cooler, but still reach 25-27°C during the day.

The lions stroll to the shade of the nearest tree, leaving the carcass for the cleaning crew to finish. Our driver-guide is dispensing water bottles and cold drinks from a well-stocked cooler box, and suitably fortified, we make our merry way to Chudob – one of my favourite waterholes in Etosha due to its size and the sheer abundance of animals that congregate there when water is scarce elsewhere.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *A spotted hyena takes a mud bath* © Natasha Culver; 2) *A black rhino is photographed through the legs of an elephant while drinking* © Johan J. Botha; 3) *A leopard pauses to rest and survey his territory on a road marker* © Andrea Dekrout; 4) *An eland and giraffe drink together* © Johan J. Botha; 5) *Springbok at Fishers Pan* © Anja Denker; 6) *A mature bateleur defends its territory at a waterhole* © Johan J. Botha

Several people seem to have the same idea, and we manage to jostle into position, the height of our open game drive vehicle a distinct advantage and guaranteeing us the best possible view of the waterhole. It’s mid-morning, and Chudob is teeming with wildlife.

Herds of zebra are milling in the distance, with a motley crew of impala, springbok and kudu quenching their thirst at the water’s edge. Dense flocks of red-billed queleas are descending in a flurry of wings, jostling for space amongst double-banded sandgrouse and guineafowl. The cacophony of their wingbeats and chirping is deafening.

An eland bull and oryx emerge from the dense mopane shrub, and a warthog mom trots towards the water, with four piglets in tow.

Suddenly, there is a collective “Ahh” from everyone in the parking lot, as a black rhino emerges from the distant line of trees! He breaks into a trot, making a beeline for the water, scattering the jittery antelope into a panicked stampede in the billowing white dust.

**Left:** *The view from Namutoni camp* © Christian Boix; **Right:** *Elephants at the Halali waterhole* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Lunchtime beckons, and as we head back to the lodge, we make a final detour via Fisher’s Pan, named after Lieutenant Adolf Fischer, who was stationed at Namutoni during the 1880s. During the rainy season, which usually starts in December and can last until April, Fisher’s Pan is a haven for several wetland and migratory bird species, especially the flamingo.

Namutoni © Namibian Wildlife Resorts — Namutoni camp © Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Now bereft of water, the pan is a vast flat white expanse in a shimmering haze. A lone elephant is the only sign of life on the pan, which is flanked by undulating fields of yellow grass.

Cheetahs love to frequent the area, and it was not more than a few weeks ago that I was privy to seeing one of them use one of the many termite mounds frequenting the landscape as a scouting point for possible prey opportunities.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A cheetah* sentinel near Fishers Pan; 2) *Elephants and zebra at the Nebrowni waterhole*; 3) *Photographing elephants at Okerfontein*. All photos Anja Denker

Back at the lodge, a dip in the sparkling blue pool refreshes body and mind, followed by a delicious light lunch and a brief siesta in the tastefully decorated and air-conditioned room. Yes, life is indeed good.

The afternoon game drive starts early and is scheduled to take us to the various waterholes in the Halali region, one of the three main camps in Etosha.

The Goas waterhole does not disappoint. A breeding herd of elephants congregate around the wide, blue expanse of the waterhole. The youngsters are frolicking in the water and wallowing in the mud. A pair of mating lions is reclining in the shade of a huge purple-pod terminalia (Terminalia pruniodes), and a motley crew of spotted hyenas are fast asleep a little distance away, while a few scattered springbok remain vigilant.

Elephant herd at Goas in Etosha National Park — Elephant herd at the Goas waterhole © Anja Denker

The access road winds around the two water sources, allowing for fantastic sightings of animals drinking and moving to and from the water – game viewing at its best, and one of the things that makes Etosha so very special.

High hopes are set on tracking the resident female leopard at the Rietfontein waterhole, which she has been frequenting for quite some time now. She is a formidable huntress and habituated to vehicles. We wait for a while, binoculars scanning the area. No luck this time, and we move on.

At Salvadora waterhole, a bull elephant is dowsing himself in white mud from the pan, giving him a distinct ghostly white appearance. (The Nebrowni waterhole near Okaukuejo is another fantastic place to spot the famed ‘white’ Etosha elephants.)

Salvadora offers a stunning vista of the pan stretching far into the distant horizon and derives its name from the evergreen mustard tree (Salvadora persica) found in the area. It is one of my favourite waterholes, and as we gaze out over the vast expanse of the pan, I reflect on the many unforgettable moments I have experienced here – from lions killing zebras to a cheetah chasing across the plains and those unforgettable sunsets as the red sun melts into the distant horizon.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A black rhino chases away a curious lioness* © Simone Basini; 2) *White rhino and calf against the backdrop of the pan* © Anja Denker; 3) *A cheetah cub guards its kill* © Manuel Graf

We have quite a distance to cover back to our lodge, and soon the night shift of aardwolf, bat-eared foxes, aardvark, and small-spotted genets will make their appearance.

We have one last surprise in store. Driving past Rietfontein in the dying light, the Rietfontein female leopard makes an appearance, surveying her domain in the golden glow of the afternoon sun with no other vehicle in sight. It was breathtaking!

Female leopard in Etosha National Park — Rietfontein female leopard © Anja Denker

We are stunned into silence, and the atmosphere on our game drive vehicle as we leave is one of contentment and wonder, brought about by the shared experience of fabulous game viewing, surprises, breathtaking scenery of contrasts and colours, wide-open spaces and the smells and sounds of the African bush. The essence of Etosha.

Etosha is the perfect year-round destination, with each season having its particular charm and beauty. I cannot think of a time in the park where I have not had memorable encounters.

Pangolin walking through Etosha National Park — “Pangolin landscape” in Etosha © Anton Kruger

About Etosha National Park

Etosha is a wildlife-rich, arid savannah that is wrapped around an enormous salt pan, which floods to various degrees during the rainy season. The gravel roads are in good condition and easily navigable in sedan cars, making it the perfect location for a self-drive Namibia safari. Expect excellent sightings of lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas, and also expect to get very close to elephant, giraffe, zebra, rhino, springbok, black-faced impala, gemsbok and other species. At the same time, you relax at the waterholes waiting for the animals to come to drink during the dry winter season from May to October. Etosha has approximately 340 bird species, including the kori bustard – the world’s heaviest flying bird.

There is basic self-catering and camping accommodation inside the park, with very popular night-time floodlit waterholes. Still, we recommend staying in one of the private lodges based just outside the park, where you can go on night drives and bush walks, which are not permitted inside the park.

Etosha is an easy drive on tar roads from Windhoek, but many choose to fly directly to the park when planning a trip to Namibia.

SEASONS

The best time to visit the park is during the dry winter season, when many animals are concentrated at waterholes, and the grass is low, providing better viewing.

Winter: May to October is the dry season, when Etosha sees the most action as wildlife congregates around the waterholes. This is the busiest season for visitors, who are attracted by the mild weather and better wildlife sightings.

Summer: November to April is the rainy season, with January and February generally enjoying the most rainfall. This is also when temperatures rise to 40° Celsius, and visitors should take precautions against the intense sun. It is in these months that the usually dry salt pan of Etosha floods and is transformed into an exquisite birder’s haven with thousands of flamingos and migratory birds. However, it is harder to guarantee game sightings during this period, as the widespread pools of water mean that animals do not need to visit the waterholes. Many of the larger mammals, such as elephants, move towards the eastern side of the park at this time, especially the Namutoni area, as it receives more rainfall than the western/Okaukuejo area.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Anja Denker

I follow the wild things… “When a person starts to talk about their dreams, it’s as if something bubbles up from within. Their eyes brighten, their face glows, and you can feel the excitement in their words”. ~ John C. Maxwell. This quote pretty much sums up my passion for wildlife – especially lions – and nature. I have always followed a career in the arts, from fashion design to postage stamp design, before taking up wildlife photography – the camera firmly welded to my hands ever since! Living in Namibia, the country of my birth, I strive to convey emotion through my work, whether in photography, visual art, or words.

Social media’s role in advertising illegal wildlife trade, including cheetah trafficking

Cheetah in cage, illegal wildlife trafficking — Eight cheetahs were seized in two raids in Somaliland in August © Cheetah Conservation Fund

Press release from Cheetah Conservation Fund

An analysis of Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) research establishes that dozens of cheetahs are being advertised for sale each year via popular social media platforms. Further, it infers the Internet’s role in driving the trade of cheetahs is prominent, and engaging social media companies should be part of any solution. The analysis, which covers the period between January 2012 and June 2018, aims to determine the extent to which illegal cheetah trade exists online and to document the most relevant threats.

Cheetahs are listed under Appendix I of the Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES). This means trade in wild-born cheetahs is permitted only in exceptional circumstances. However, CCF data analysis shows that 1,367 documented cheetahs were offered for sale through 906 adverts, which is approximately one-fifth (20%) of the world’s remaining wild cheetah population. Cheetahs are on a swift decline, dropping from an estimated 100,000 individuals a century ago to fewer than 7,500 today.

The most utilised platforms are Instagram, 4Sale (a mobile app) and YouTube, comprising fifteen countries. However, the Gulf Cooperation Council accounted for over 90% of the adverts, with Saudi Arabia totalling more than 60% of those. The analysis focused on the three top sellers, all of whom are based in Saudi Arabia and posted 20% of all adverts. Of these sellers, one alone accounted for 12% of all adverts analysed and was found to offer multiple species that include lions, tigers, jaguars, wolves, gibbons and chimpanzee.

These two cheetah cubs, kept in appalling conditions, were confiscated in Somaliland © Cheetah Conservation Fund

“The illegal trade in live cheetahs impacts the smaller, fragmented populations in East Africa most. Mitigating the threat requires a concerted effort by governments to not only to confiscate the animals but to embark on a major awareness campaign to reduce demand for endangered species as pets”, said Dr Laurie Marker, CCF Founder and Executive Director. “Already vulnerable cheetah populations, particularly those in Ethiopia and Somalia, are at risk of local extinction because of poaching for the illegal pet trade”.

CCF estimates put the number of smuggled cheetahs out of East Africa at 300 per year. Many more die before being shipped to the Middle East.

“CCF maintains a ‘safe house’ in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland, where a team of animal keepers are caring for eleven confiscated cheetahs. Eight were confiscated within a three-week period, and two were just three-weeks-old when intercepted. One of the youngest died a few days after confiscation”, said Patricia Tricorache, CCF’s Assistant Director of Illegal Wildlife Trade.

CCF has been working to counter poaching and trafficking since 2005. Since 2011, CCF has assisted the Somaliland government with the surrender or confiscation of 50 cheetahs. On 28 August, a landmark victory was achieved in Somaliland courts when two subjects charged with wildlife trafficking were sentenced to three years in prison and fined $300 USD and their vehicle seized – the first conviction for illegal cheetah trade in Somaliland.

Dr Laurie Marker with the surviving cheetah cub rescued from poachers in Somaliland © Cheetah Conservation Fund

ABOUT CHEETAH CONSERVATION FUND (CCF)

Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) is the global leader in the research and conservation of cheetahs. Founded in Namibia in 1990, CCF maintains a research programme studying the biology, ecology and genetics of the cheetah and operates the only fully-equipped genetics laboratory at an in-situ conservation site in Africa. CCF has created a set of integrated programmes based on this research that addresses threats to the cheetah and its entire ecosystem, including human populations. CCF operates from the principle that only by securing the future of the communities that live alongside the cheetah can you secure a future for the species.

Video: Searching for the elusive green-breasted pitta

A green-breasted pitta in Kibale National Park © Christian Boix

Written, and photographs, by Christian Boix

I am standing still, deep inside Uganda’s Kibale National Park. It is dark, way too early in the morning, and a lush canopy above my head mantles today’s dawn. There is an eerie and almost deafening silence, unlike the conspicuously noisy forests I have visited in West Africa, South America and southeast Asia.

My aim today is to listen out for the green-breasted pitta, to track it down to its perch and stealthily approach it to take a decent photo. I tell myself to stay focused – perhaps my luck will change today. I close my eyes and scan the silence with my ears. I am listening for a quasi-imperceptible frog-like “proop”, from somewhere in the forest canopy. The call itself is a rather subdued tremolo – more like a frog than a bird.

So how then was this bird ever found in this forest you may ask? And why have only a handful of birders ever laid eyes on a green-breasted pitta before? The answer is truly charming…

The re-discovery of the green-breasted pitta in Kibale National Park, as told by Ranger Harriet Kemigisha

“I was a ranger guide in Kibale National Park, mostly taking out clients for birding and chimpanzee tracking in this beautiful rainforest. On June 21st 2005, I had a group of six clients which I took out for chimpanzee tracking.

We came across a fruiting fig tree (in an area well-known to us guides) where we found chimps feeding high up on the fruits. We watched them for about 30 minutes until they all descended and started walking on the ground at a very fast pace, so we decided to follow them. Somehow I lost sight of them, but I could hear them calling from a distance of about 300 metres. Blindly following the chimps we had wandered off the trail and were now thoroughly lost!

The good thing was that I had a radio and was able to get in touch with my other colleagues in the forest. I called Godfrey and talked to him in our local language Rutoro, to make sure that the clients don’t know that we were lost in the forest.

‘Nyowe Mbuzile nabagenyi timanyile ambilendi’, I said to him, which basically means: “I am lost with visitors and I have no idea where I am”.

He told me to walk towards the sounds of the chimps, which I did, all the while making sure that my clients thought their guide was looking for more chimps and not totally lost.

As I walked in the direction my colleague gave me, I spotted a beautiful bird hopping on the ground like a thrush. I turned to my clients in excitement and said, ‘That’s a pitta!’. My clients were not interested in birds at all and they ignored my pitta.

I kept watching the bird as it carried nesting materials, but my clients were impatient as they were only interested in seeing the chimps. We continued following the calls of chimps until we ended up at the same fig tree where we were at before, to find more chimps feeding. We were not lost anymore!

This helped me to estimate the distance from where I had seen the pitta. We walked back to Kanyachu visitor centre and I shared my good news of the pitta and quickly picked up the bird book to properly identify it – but the book only had one species of pitta – the African pitta, which didn’t look like the one I had just seen in the forest.

I called Hassan Mutebi, who had left Kibale a few days ago with a Spanish birder Ignacio Ufera. I told him that I had seen a pitta but did not look like an African pitta. Hassan shared the news with his client and they immediately changed their itinerary and came back to Kibale the next day.

I guided them to the exact spot where the bird was and we all started looking on the ground when I heard Ignacio shouting, ‘I have seen it, there are two!’.

Since then, the news of the green-breasted pitta in Kibale has spread all over the world. Pitta experts say that this is the most difficult and unknown species of pitta in the world.

After this discovery, there was an increase of birding groups to Uganda by 80%, and I was getting many bookings for guiding from various birding groups – and with each group I successfully located the pitta.

I have now learnt the pitta’s various behaviours, from feeding and breeding, to displaying and territories. I feel like I know this bird like I know myself.”

And that is how the green-breasted pitta became a traceable species in Kibale, part luck, part know-how and a healthy wallop of grit, determination and birding passion.

So here I am in Kibale, with Harriet as my guide. It’s my sixth time trying to catch a glimpse of this iconic species. I have prayed to each and every birding god I know for assistance, as I am not sure I can handle being stood up yet again. As it is, this pitta already holds the dubiously honourable rank of number ONE African bogey bird in my books, a title am hoping to lose today.

Timing is key, for hearing its call is essential to narrowing down the search area. They are most likely to call in (February and June) and one is more likely to hear it when the forest is quiet, in the morning, just before the usual dawn chorus – at other times forest soundscape drowns out the soft call. Alternatively, they are known to breed in June-July and the bird guides in Kibale have realised how sought-after this bird is, and have developed a stellar approach to showing nesting couples to clients, from a safe distance, without affecting breeding. Outside of these months, one has almost no chances of catching a glimpse of this bird on the forest floor.

Suddenly, there is a subdued and distant “proop”, and we all lock onto the sound. Torches off, and with brisk but mindful steps we close the gap. Harriet orchestrates the best approach, knowing already which individual it is and his perching preferences. It takes another 5 or 6 “proops” for the bird to drop off from the canopy, and soon enough the “prooping” emanates from a mere five metres off the ground and right in front of us.

“Scan that tree,” Harriet orders.

And my word… after two sweeps my eyes land on a mossy, sunlit branch where the distinct shape and colours of my quarry appear as if by magic! Seconds later I see the coveted ‘twitch’ display, as it hops into the air whilst “prooping” and claiming stake to this patch of forest.

I am elated, excited, riveted as I absorbing every second and my brain buffers as it downloads the sights and sounds of this stunning bird and its stellar display. For the next 20 minutes a number of sun-flecked branches are used to call and display, until the bird eventually drops to the forest floor. And disappears.

We relocate it, and follow it for an hour. It is easy to lose sight of this dumpy, thrush-like bird – as colourful as it is. Green-breasted pittas will dash from one dappled shadow to the next, slaloming past sun flecks on the forest floor, revealing itself on its own terms. Like a puff of smoke, this Houdini will evaporate from plain sight as it blends into the background, and appear yonder as if to tease you. It is clear to me that one cannot observe a green-breasted pitta if it does not want to be seen. Needless to say, one needs to be focused and save the blinking for later.

Stealth is paramount. Maintaining the right distance, pre-empting its next dash, and understanding the terrain are important factors to consider in order to get a decent, prolonged view. One wrong move, and it will disappear, or worse, it will flush and fly into a densely wooded area, or straight up to the canopy. Gone.

Thank you Harriet, for sharing your forest, knowledge and awesome green-breasted pitta.

Watch the green-breasted pitta in action, filmed by Christian Boix in Kibale National Park – don’t forget to turn up the sound to hear the “proop” and the chimps!

Should you be interested in trying your luck on a ‘Pitta Quest’, have a look at our 4-night itinerary here, and do not hesitate to contact us should you require further information. Whether it is African (Angolan) or the green-breasted pitta, we will do our best to deliver.

The best time of the year to see green-breasted pittas is mid-June, July, August, and February/March, plus early April.

There are two pitta species in Africa, and approximately 42 elsewhere in the world, mostly in southeast Asia. They are all drop-dead gorgeous, but the African representatives are much harder to find (in my opinion).

Djibouti: Adventure in the Horn of Africa

Man and camel in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

The Horn of Africa brings to mind treacherous coastlines patrolled by AK47 wielding pirates, unforgiving desert plains and fiercely proud tribes. And there is Djibouti, a land of stark beauty with blinding salt flats, mysterious moonscapes, petrified forests and remote mountains hidden away, far off the beaten track, waiting to be discovered.

It was hot. I didn’t need to hear the expletive escaping my brother’s mouth to confirm this as we descended down the plane’s steps. Nor did I need to double check my Lonely Planet copy which helpfully stated, “May-Sep: Some like it hot… some like it hot.”

Landscape of arid Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

It was the first week of July. It was no less than 50 degrees Celsius. I could barely breathe. We found temporary respite in the airport. We spotted no other tourists; it looked like we had Djibouti all to ourselves. The perks of travelling in the low season.

We had no plan, just a vague idea about what we wanted to see in the next six days. Our French was terrible, my only carefully rehearsed phrase being, “What type of beer do you have?” It was not used much. Still, this was Djibouti and there was nothing that couldn’t be fixed.

Landscape outside of Djibouti City — © Maurice Schutgens

Salah, a friend we made on the plane, soon hooked us up with Ibrahim who had just started his own business venture aptly named “Ibrahim Tours”. We were to be his first customers as we sketched out an itinerary with hand signals on a dirty napkin in Club Ethiopia (a place with the only affordable beer in town).

“There is nothing out here.” I mused as I stared out of the window as our Land Cruiser ate up the sands of the desert.

Limestone landscape in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

All signs of life had disappeared the moment we left the outskirts of Djibouti City, morphing into the barrenness of the Gran and Petit Barra depressions. It was a parched landscape etched with intricate patterns into the clay, windswept over millennia. It seemed unending.

As the sun dropped low over the horizon a land of pre-historic limestone chimneys emerged in the distance, rising from the desert carrying with them the angry heat from the depths of the earth. Our skilled Afar guide, Abdul, carefully navigated us through the quicksand-ridden expanse on unmarked roads. We watched the resilient Afar herdsmen stand guard on hilltops and draw near in a cloud of dust guiding their cattle to the precious water, a lifeline in these parts. Humanity can carve out an existence in the most extreme of places.

Driving in the arid desert of Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Lac Abbe was not a place for the faint-hearted. Lightning ravaged the skies and the wind tore at our clothes as we slept under the stars. In the morning, the thick mist obscured the chimneys as they hauntingly emerged and disappeared at a moments notice. Lac Abbe was positively apocalyptic in every sense of the word.

Lac Abbe in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

We left Lac Abbe behind and headed for Lac Assal, a crater lake located in the centre of the country deep in the Afar Triangle, known to be many times saltier than the ocean.

At 150m below sea level it is the undisputed lowest spot on the African continent.

Author at the shoreline of Lac Abbe in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

A storm loomed large over the lake as we arrived at the blindingly white salt flats. The turquoise waters danced in the wind as we carefully stepped into the shallows. The salt was sharp like razor blades under our exposed feet. I screamed into the wind. I felt alive.

As night fell our Land Cruiser crawled its way up high into the remote Goda Mountains in search of the settlement of Dittilou located on the border of the famed Foret du Day.

We arrived deep into the night at a local camp and sleep came easy. The morning revealed the most incredible mountain vistas.

Dittilou in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Hiking deep into the mountains in search of plane crashes and waterfalls was a privilege. Our journey continued on to another settlement in the mountains: Bankouale, a place where the elusive leopard is still said to roam.

Driving towards the settlement of Bankouale in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

We left the mountains in our wake as we headed for the gritty Port City of Tadjoura, Djibouti’s oldest town, once ruled by the mighty Sultans of the gulf.

Today all that remains is camel strewn streets and a brand new Chinese port that sees no ships.

Another mystery that we weren’t going to solve that day – instead we headed for Sables Blancs, a beach only accessible by a steep ramp from the plateau above. The water was magical.

Sables Blancs in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Djibouti is a place like no other. It’s a place made for the intrepid traveller who is searching for an experience that’s different and untouched by mass tourism.

Make no mistake, Djibouti is outrageously expensive but would I go again…? Probably!

Local on a mountain in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Celebrating Etosha

Etosha National Park in Namibia is the perfect year-round destination, offering unique experiences in each season. It is one of Africa’s top safari destinations and a photographer’s dream – probably one of the best places in Africa to photograph wildlife, whether you’re a beginner or an expert. Elephants, zebras, black and white rhinos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, herds of springbok, giraffe, and wildebeest all call Etosha home in plentiful numbers. The landscapes are also spectacularly photogenic with wide, vast vistas, and barren salt pans under stunning blue skies. In this gallery, we are celebrating Etosha in all its glory with a selection of incredible photos by Simone Basini, a guide, wildlife photographer, and a Photographer of the Year competition entrant, from his time in Etosha.

“During the dry season, elephants travel long distances to reach the water. The excitement of this herd is palpable as they approach the Okaukuejo waterhole in Etosha National Park.” © Simone Basini

“These three cheetah cubs were busy learning how to pierce through the thick skin of a black-faced impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi) carcass, while mom was resting close by after the successful hunt.” © Simone Basini

“This lioness was stalking towards a springbok in the vast open plains of Gemsbokvlakte in Etosha. She was also lactating – a sign that her cubs were probably hidden close by.” © Simone Basini

? “Near the Nebrownii waterhole, an elephant used his foot to pull out a root from the ground. In the dry season, when there is less foliage, elephants tend to eat more stems, barks and roots.” © Simone Basini

“I took this photograph while en route to Okondeka. The sun was shining, but under the thick cumulonimbus clouds in the distance, you could see the thunderstorm approaching.” © Simone Basini

“A black rhino pauses while crossing the northern grasslands.” © Simone Basini

“This lone lioness had a perfect throat clamp on this springbok. It takes exceptional skills to ambush prey in the vast plains of Etosha, where there is hardly any cover to hide behind.” © Simone Basini

“A rare sighting of a bachelor herd of greater kudu out in the open on the banks of the Etosha Pan, on the Onkoshi side. After an excellent rainy season, part of the Etosha Pan becomes a lake once more.” © Simone Basini

“An adult Damara dik-dik, with a height of just 40cm, is the smallest antelope to be found in Etosha. This photo was taken at sunset close to Klein Namutoni.” © Simone Basini

“Churning up clouds of dust, these two bulls were so intent on fighting that they paid no attention to the nearby predators.” © Simone Basini

“Giraffe and ostriches stand tall against the white of the Etosha Pan in the Wolfsnes area.” © Simone Basini

“This lioness caused all of the animals at the Bitterwater waterhole to scatter when she started to pick up speed.” © Simone Basini

“Springboks wading at Chudob waterhole.” © Simone Basini

“This giraffe took great care to make sure that there were no predators nearby before she splayed her legs to reach for the water – this is the most vulnerable moment for a giraffe.” © Simone Basini

“On the edge of the Etosha Pan, a small group of wildebeest appeared as if they were suspended in time.” © Simone Basini

“These two black rhinos’ reflection was in near symmetrical perfection, and lasted for only a few seconds.” © Simone Basini

Botswana elephant poaching debate: Wildlife vet speaks his mind

Elephant herd crossing delta in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Opinion post by Dr FJ (Erik) Verreynne – a wildlife and livestock vet with a post-graduate wildlife management degree, who has been practising in Botswana since 2002.

Driving on the white gravel road from Seronga, past Eretsha, Betsa and Gudigwa, to the village of Gunostoga in the northwest of Botswana marks the boundary between the flood plains of NG12 to the south and the dry mopane veld of NG11 and NG13 in the north. The Namibian border is roughly 80km to the north. To the north from here, along the Caprivi strip, is one of the areas reported to contain the so-called strewn carcasses of the many poached elephants.

There is no better area to seek perspective on the BBC article where Elephants without Borders raised the alarm on large numbers of elephants being poached in Botswana.

Gravel road to Gunotsoga in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

The gravel road connecting the area is here because the people are here. And the people are here because the water and the floodplains are here. And so are the wildlife. It has been like this for many years, long before the areas to the south and east were re-classified as photographic safari areas. Long before local people were stopped from hunting or herding their cattle to the apple leaf sandy ridges to the south.

People were and are still working their fields in the wet season, or herding their cattle on the floodplains during the dry season. They are fishing from mokoros and harvesting reeds for building shelters and houses.

Cattle herd in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

The elephants have always been here, mixing with people and other wildlife and taking chances with raiding crops. But they were perceived as much less of a menace then, reportedly because they were fewer in number. In general, people got by without major issues and life at large was peaceful. NG12 was a controlled hunting area, and elephants and other wildlife were hunted in a controlled manner, supervised by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, while communities benefited either directly or indirectly by means of employment, money or meat.

The nearby open international borders posed a poaching threat and the Botswana Defence Force was deployed along the border after two recent episodes of near-total extinction of rhinos by poachers.

It all changed a few years ago when the hunting of elephant and other wildlife in the area was banned. The ban was put in place after little consultation, motivated by blaming dwindling wildlife numbers on overhunting with no tangible evidence of real cause. Hunting concessions were then converted into photographic safari concessions.

Photographic tourism was subsequently greatly promoted, and labelling Botswana as a safe haven for elephants and rhinos was at the core of the tourism marketing drive. Elephant population numbers were manipulated and inflated to as much as 200,000 to celebrate the conservation success and to lure more people. Tourism, as one of the main earners of foreign exchange, grew tremendously and surpassed agriculture as part of the GDP, while the influx of elephants resulted in dispersal all over Botswana, causing widespread human-wildlife conflict and vegetation damage, and placed enormous strain on Botswana’s compensation and anti-poaching resources.

To achieve greater control over the nature-based tourism growth process, wildlife resources were centralised, and local responsibilities and benefits were largely taken away from the communities. The benefits of tourism only benefited a few large companies, leaving the communities behind with the stark reality of the sheer number of elephants (and predator conflict). While the world was celebrating Botswana tourism stakeholders with rewards and accolades, the picture in rural Botswana looked quite different – that of locals paying a high price.

Elephant damage to a tree in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

So here is part of that dark picture. This remote area, which Thalefang Charles refers to as “Overseas”, has about 16,000 people and 18,000 elephants. More than 16,000 cattle graze the floodplain between Seronga and Gudigwa. Small settlements dot the area between the villages all along the road, on the floodplains and into the dry north.

Elephant corridor sign in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

As you drive along the road, signs by a conservation NGO indicate the elephant corridors that the elephants use to reach the water on the floodplain. This is to prevent future development but does not safeguard the houses and fields already established in the way of the ever-increasing elephant herds.

To some extent, these signs are rather ironic. The short stunted mopane shrubs strewn with skeletons of large trees interspersed with well-worn elephant paths and heaps of elephant dung where they cross the road is stating the obvious.

Stripped vegetation due to elephants in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

As the rain-filled waterholes in the north are drying up, the elephant herds need to walk south to the floodplains to drink every day, not only intensifying the human-wildlife conflict, but causing an ever radiating devastation to the vegetation which is now also starting to affect the large trees on the islands of the floodplains.

They arrive at dusk and leave again at dawn, preventing human movement in the dark. Where it used to be only elephant bulls hanging around on the floodplains during the day, now some cow herds do not leave, staying close to villages and preventing free movement of people from working their fields or tending to their livestock – even during the daylight hours. For not only water, but also browse is getting scarce in the north. And the crop-raiding during the rainy season has escalated and some people have stopped planting.

Vultures eating elephant carcass in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Close to the road on the floodplain near the village of Gunotsoga lies the carcass of a female elephant, with vultures cleaning the hollows in her skull where her tusks have been removed. This is the matriarch of a small herd. She killed an old man on the road three weeks ago. He left on foot for the village from his settlement at about six in the morning but never got there. His mutilated body was found next to the road by a passerby, with the story written in the sand – a tale of unprovoked fury by the cow elephant.

She must have been enraged by a very bad experience with people. She charged at him from nearly 80 metres away, tusking and tossing him several times before rejoining her herd far on the opposite side of the road. She was shot by an officer of the Department the same day, and the tusks removed for safekeeping. The community was furious about the killing of the old man, and two other elephants were apparently killed shortly after by community members in retaliation, the bodies left with the tusks intact…

Rural village in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

So back to the BBC article and the pure hate and condemnation it has provoked from some circles. Allow me some perspective while remembering the souls of the old man and the elephant matriarch, and so many old men and elephants in villages all over the north of Botswana. No good will come from their deaths if it based on lies.

Firstly, the anti-poaching units were never disarmed. Their military weapons were removed as it is against the law in Botswana and they are already assisted by the Botswana Defence Force which is suitably armed and equipped. The APU’S still have their semi-automatic weapons. So blaming the poaching on the “de-weaponising” of the law enforcement agencies is not factual or logical.

The areas in question are close to the Namibian border, and away from the core areas usually covered by the APU’s where a number of Defence Force Units are already deployed. Despite the presence of these units, the alleged killing of such large numbers of elephants in such a short period of time was not noticed. Some areas involved are prone to anthrax-related mortalities. As such the spatial and time scale claims, and the cause of mortality as claimed by the BBC report, are to be questioned.

Furthermore, the statement that the scale of poaching recorded by EWB was not witnessed before, seems sensation driven since East Africa lost 30,000 elephants per year (80 per day) not so long ago.

Botswana does not approve of poaching on any scale. Our past track record is proof of that. But Botswana as a safe haven is a marketing stunt. It does not exist and will never exist because no such haven country exists anywhere in Africa.

With the number of elephants in Botswana, the scale of human-elephant conflict, the geographical challenges and the regional onslaught, it is inevitable that we will experience a degree of poaching. And poaching will most likely increase. But with an annual elephant population increase of 5%, on 154,000 elephants in Botswana, even the BBC reported poaching rate is insignificant and will not threaten elephants as a species in Botswana. To hold Botswana responsible for the conservation of the whole African elephant population is unfair.

No international vocalisation will reduce the scale of poaching in Botswana. Poachers do not read newspapers or Facebook. It is our responsibility and we are not afraid to take it on. That also includes admitting when things are not working.

The previous exclusive conservation policy has now been proven to be disastrous and very expensive to our national budget. Not only the elephants, but also people and other species like the rhinos in the Delta are in jeopardy.

Tree damage due to elephants in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Change is imperative and you need to give us that chance.

We need to shift the emphasis of our poaching mitigation in Botswana away from our ability to arm our APU’s or to ban hunting, or even on the size of the tourism industry. We need to base it on our ability to restore a safe and stable rural, political and economical environment combined with pragmatic conservation measures where local communities are part and parcel of the responsibilities and benefits of sustainable conservation.

We also need to redefine co-existence – not to fulfil a western conservation doctrine, but to include a workable definition based on sustainability for communities and wildlife.

Culling the elephants is not a solution due to the numbers involved. As such the proposed lifting of the hunting ban will not negatively affect the numbers. The annual elephant trophy hunting quota for Botswana never exceeded 400 animals per year, complemented by a small number of citizen hunting licenses. But hunting may provide a fast track to tangible benefits for the hardest-hit communities until a better sustainable solution can be established. And hunting in hot spot conflict areas may induce elephant movement out of those areas, as has happened in neighbouring range states (to our detriment).

Additionally, we need to shift the emphasis of our tourism marketing drives.

For too long we have built our nature-based tourism industry on a false illusion of “pristineness” that excludes any signs of human existence. It is these illusions that allow for the current hype of emotions based on misleading reporting. The wilderness areas in Africa were never without people and will never be without people. By excluding people, and allowing elephant numbers to get out of hand in Botswana, we are running the risk of losing more elephants and other wildlife through the conflict, poaching and starvation than are sacrificed through hunting. And I dare not imagine the cruelty that goes with that scenario.

At the same time, we should educate tourists to accept that people and livestock are part of the environment and the safari experience that they are paying for.

Our President needs support in his conservation approach. He does not deserve the condemnation that followed the BBC article. If any are to be blamed, then perhaps look at neighbouring elephant range countries and their lack of taking responsibility for their own elephants.

It is the right of Batswana to live in a safe environment. It is embedded in our Constitution, as it is in most countries’ Constitutions. And to impose measures that we can afford. Only when we are feeling safe and secure will we be able to conserve our rich wildlife heritage. And for now, we are threatened by our own success.

Give us some room? Change is never without pain. Especially to those who benefited most in the past.

Elephant feeding in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Kenya’s Lion Guardians

Dawn is just breaking when Kamunu Saitoti sets out across the Amboseli bush in search of lions. At first glance, he appears much like any other Maasai warrior: Lean and tall, his dark red shuka is wrapped around his torso and waist concealing his only weapon, a long knife with a simple wooden handle. Brightly coloured beads adorn Saitoti’s neck, ears, forearms, and ankles, and his feet, far more weathered than the rest of his body, are only partially covered by dusty sandals fashioned from discarded car tyres.

“I killed my first lion when I was 21,” Saitoti says as he scans the horizon. In all, he has killed five lions. This, he says, was an integral part of his family history, part of being raised as a moran, a Maasai warrior. “My brother and father have also killed lions.”

Maasai Kamunu Saitoti takes meticulous notes about his observations while tracking lions in Amboseli — Lion Guardian Kamunu Saitoti takes meticulous notes about his observations, including GPS readings of animal locations, as he makes his way through the Amboseli rangelands © Marcus Westberg

The Maasai are traditionally a nomadic people subsisting almost exclusively on the milk, blood, and meat of cattle grazed on East Africa’s vast rangeland, amidst what once appeared to be endless numbers of wild animals. In the past, lion killing for the Maasai was as much about tradition as it was about protecting livestock from predators. To hunt and kill a lion was a critical right of passage known as olamayio – how young Maasai males became men. The tradition has also created a powerful connection between warriors and lions, with each young moran receiving a lion name after his first successful hunt. Saitoti’s lion name, Meiterienanka, means “one who is faster than all the others.”

But traditions are beginning to change.

On this day, in place of a spear, Saitoti carries a radio telemetry kit. He unfolds the antenna in a manner suggesting he has done this countless times before and looks around in search of a hill – not an easy task in a landscape as flat as this. He settles for the remnants of an abandoned termite mound and begins to scan for a signal. Once he has a sense of the direction the signal is coming from, he packs away the kit and starts walking, dust trailing his brisk march along the well-used track.

Car tyre sandals — Nothing is wasted in Kenya. Discarded car tyres, for example, have become a popular material for sandals © Marcus Westberg

For the next three hours, Saitoti stops only to look for signs of lions, or to talk to herders. Most tracks he sees are too old to bother with, but as the sun nears its zenith, he finds a set that elicits visible excitement – a departure from his otherwise solemn demeanour. Lion cubs, young ones, and very fresh. Patience, however, will be required here. The narrow trail leads into a maze of dense shrubs, and that is no place to follow a lioness with cubs – even for someone as experienced as Saitoti.

At 36, Saitoti is a seven-year veteran, and one of Kenya’s three regional coordinators, of an organisation known as Lion Guardians. Established in 2007, the program is dedicated to finding ways for Maasai and lions to coexist. At its core is a shift in the relationship between the moran and the lion: Hunters have become protectors.

This profound change in perspective is a critical component of East Africa’s lion conservation efforts. But the Guardians have a lot of ground to cover – just 45 Maasai warriors patrol about a million acres of Kenyan rangelands – and human-wildlife conflict is a bigger problem than one organisation, or one approach, can solve.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lion guardian Kamunu Saitoti and a local community manager analyse wildlife tracks crisscrossing through the dry Amboseli soil*; 2) *Saitoti can determine a lion’s identity, its direction of travel, and how long ago it passed through an area by merely examining its tracks*; 3) *Standing on the remains of an old termite mound, Saitoti scans for a signal. A number of the lions in the area have been fitted with radio collars*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

Lion Guardians is just one of several small- and medium-sized efforts by government officials, NGOs, and locals to reduce human-wildlife conflicts in Kenya and elsewhere in sub-Saharan Africa. As human populations in the region have exploded, consuming increasing amounts of wildlife habitat in the process, the numbers of some of the region’s most iconic and important species have been in steep decline.

Populations of many of Kenya’s large herbivores have fallen by 70 to 90% since the late 1970s. And as their prey has become more scarce, so too have lions. Scientists estimate that lion populations have fallen by more than 40% in the past 20 years, and the 20,000 or so wild lions that remain occupy just 8% of the species’ historical range.

In many ways, the need for such intervention has never been greater. Yet, in a region where droughts are frequent, and famine is never entirely out of sight, finding a path toward peaceful coexistence between herders and the predators that hunt their livestock will require a great deal of persistence, creativity, and a shift in how the region’s wildlife is valued.

**Left:** *For most Maasai, the response to finding a leopard in your goat pen, surrounded by several slain goats, would be quick and straightforward: Kill the leopard*; **Right:** *A traditional boma constructed of wood and thorny branches*. Both photos © Marcus Westberg

Human-wildlife conflict

For most Maasai, the response to finding a leopard in your goat pen, surrounded by several slain goats, would be quick and straightforward: Kill the leopard. There would be no repercussions, as Kenya’s wildlife laws allow citizens to dispatch so-called problem animals. And this young male, like his mother before him, would certainly fit that description. He had been terrorising the village of Ngerende and several neighbouring communities for years, killing hundreds of goats – losses keenly felt in what is one of Kenya’s poorest regions, and a hotbed of human-wildlife conflict.

With the leopard’s paw now caught in the fencing of the pen, or boma, as livestock enclosures are called here, there seemed to be only one possible outcome. But the owner of this particular boma, Mark Ole Njapit, is no ordinary Maasai.

“I understand the value of wildlife for the future of our people,” says Njapit (48), a Ngerende community elder known by most as ‘Pilot’. “Everyone was agitated and wanted to spear it, but I calmed them down and called KWS (Kenya Wildlife Service).” Fortunately for the leopard, KWS officers were treating some elephants nearby and responded quickly. After tranquillising the cat, they were able to cut him free and move him to an area where he would be less likely to get into trouble.

Maasai standing outside new boma — Members of Pilot’s family stand at the gate of his new boma © Marcus Westberg

That was six months ago. Today, Pilot is supervising as members of his village – in partnership with the Anne K. Taylor Fund (AKTF), an organisation working in its own way to reduce human-wildlife conflicts – construct his new boma.

The enclosure they’re building is formidable, with welded corner posts interspersed with termite-proof eucalyptus timber poles, all set in concrete. The chain-link fence is stretched tight, 7 feet above the ground and another foot buried in the soil; the fence is designed to be virtually impossible for a predator to push over, climb, or dig beneath. (While a leopard could easily scale a similar-sized fence constructed entirely of wood, they tend to avoid chain-link fencing.)

Today, after more than two years and nearly a hundred of the latest iteration of AKTF bomas constructed, the program’s record remains intact: Not a single livestock animal protected by one of these enclosures has been killed by a wild predator.

The effectiveness of the new bomas means they’re in high demand. And while AKTF doesn’t usually work in villages as far north as Ngerende, when Pilot reached out, the program’s construction director, Felix Masaku, made an exception.

“Here is a man whose small village loses maybe ten goats a week choosing not to kill the leopard that is doing much of that damage. That is very unusual, and it is important to support this man so others might follow his example,” says Masaku.

Workers stretching out fencing for a new boma construction — Workers stretch out the chain-link fencing for Pilot’s new boma. The construction process typically takes two days, one for setting the posts in cement, and another for attaching the fencing © Marcus Westberg

In general, AKTF priorities cases in which livestock losses have been most significant.

“This is about conservation and co-existence,” Masaku continues. “We want to minimise conflict and retaliatory killings. If someone is losing five goats and two cows every week, that person is more likely to try to kill predators than someone who loses maybe one goat a month.”

By reducing the vulnerability of livestock to predation, this program and others like it aim to reduce, if not eliminate, retaliatory killings, known as olkiyioi. This practice poses a grave threat to lions in particular, especially when angry cattle owners turn to poison rather than spears to wipe out entire prides of lions. In recent years, there have been several high-profile killings. For example, several members of the Marsh pride (of BBC Big Cat Diary fame) were deliberately poisoned in the Maasai Mara National Reserve (MMNR) in 2015, and six lions, including two cubs, were speared to death outside Nairobi National Park in early 2016.

One troubling detail about the slaughter of the Marsh pride members is that it was carried out by Maasai seeking revenge for cattle killed while being grazed illegally inside the reserve. This practice is not uncommon. In fact, a paper published in the Journal of Zoology in 2011 estimated that by the early 2000s, livestock made up 23% of the MMNR’s mammal biomass – up from a mere 2% a few decades earlier. Today, this figure dramatically exceeds that of any resident wildlife species in the protected area except for buffalo. This is as much a sign of declining wildlife populations as it is of human incursions into the reserve, and it underscores significant challenges both in terms of protecting livestock and preventing human-wildlife conflicts.

As Anne Taylor, the founder of AKTF, put it: “Inside the bomas is one thing, but keeping cattle safe if they are literally brought into the lions’ den is virtually impossible.”

Elephants walk through the Amboseli landscape in southern Kenya © Marcus Westberg

Finding a solution

For many Maasai today, lions and other predators have become an expensive nuisance at best, and a source of deep-seated resentment at worst. In general, this resentment is not directed toward the predators themselves, but toward a government – and the world at large – which often appears to place more value on the big cats (and the tourism dollars they generate) than on Maasai lives and livelihoods.

National parks and reserves cover a mere 8% of Kenya’s land area and support only a third of its wildlife. The remaining two-thirds of the country’s wild animals inhabit private and communal rangelands. This is land they share with the Maasai, Samburu, and other pastoral people. Many think it is here, outside of the parks and reserves, that the future of Kenya’s wildlife will be decided.

According to a report co-authored by Panthera, WildAid, and the Wildlife Conservation Research Unit, loss of habitat due to agricultural expansion, which invariably pushes wildlife into closer contact with farmers and pastoralists, is the underlying factor of all major threats that lions face.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A lion grooms a lioness*; 2) *A cheetah relaxing*; 3) *Spotted hyena with cubs*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

To many, the conversion of unprotected rangelands to agriculture might seem inevitable as the region’s population grows. Still, Calvin Cottar, a fourth-generation Kenyan whose great-grandfather emigrated from Iowa in 1915, disagrees. According to Cottar, it all comes down to economic security.

“We are talking about some of the world’s poorest people,” Cottar says. “For them, it is about survival. Why should we expect them to care about lions or elephants when they are struggling to put food on the table – if they even have a table? Wildlife is costing them money, not earning them money, and that is what has to change.”

Toward this end, while working with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), Cottar initiated several district wildlife associations in an attempt to help landowners acquire ownership rights to the wildlife residing on their lands. Because all wild animals in Kenya have historically been considered the property of the state, benefits to local communities having to co-exist with these creatures have generally been few and far between. Now in his 50s, Cottar says there’s much more to be done. He is more convinced than ever that the future of Kenya’s wildlife lies with the people sharing the land with them – and with a shift in government policy.

“It’s really quite simple,” he says. “We all have to pay for ecosystem services. Pay the Maasai landowners a monthly lease for their land in return for leaving it intact. The problem is that wildlife has no value to them, whereas cattle and commercial agriculture do.”

While removing snares, building livestock enclosures, and monitoring lion populations are all essential management practices, Cottar says, they don’t solve the root cause of human-wildlife conflict. Wild animals are basically a nuisance and a liability to the Maasai, he explains. “We have to make maintaining wildlife the most productive land use, and preferably in a way that respects the Maasai lifestyle and culture.”

Snare being removed by an AKTF team member in Maasai Mara National Reserve — The AKTF team spends much of its time searching and removing snares from inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Although the snares are set primarily to catch herbivores, they are indiscriminate killers, trapping lions, leopards, and other predators © Marcus Westberg

That is why Cottar now finds himself sitting in a circle with perhaps 50 Maasai – young and old, men and women. The topic, just as it has been for the last three years, is the formation of the Olderkesi Conservancy, on the land where Cottar’s safari camp currently stands. In general, the conservancy model consists of land being leased directly from its owners for conservation purposes. Olderkesi is slightly different in that the 100,000-hectare ranch has yet to be subdivided, making it the last communally owned ranch left in Kenya. As a result, the land will be leased from a trust representing all 6,000 landowners, and because the agreement involves the Maasai, a complete consensus is required before anything can be signed. In Maasailand, patience is not so much a virtue as an absolute necessity.

One of the community’s most respected elders joining Cottar in the circle is Kelian Ole Mbirikani (58), a member of the Olderkesi Land Committee and Chairman of the Olentoroto landowners group, which owns the land immediately surrounding Cottar’s camp. He is also one of the driving forces behind the conservancy initiative.

“The Maasai depend almost completely on their cattle,” Mbirikani explains, “so convincing them that it is possible to have both wildlife and livestock at the same time has been our biggest challenge. In their experience, when land is set aside for wildlife, all of the cattle disappear. That’s what national parks do.”
Mbirikani is convinced the conservancy concept can work, though. He and a group of other Maasai travelled with Cottar recently to conservancies as far north as Samburu. There, they saw wildlife and met landowners who are still able to graze their cattle. “The people are really benefiting,” Mbirikani says. “Their children are being educated all through university level with the money from the conservancies. That is what we want for our people, too.”

**Clockwise from bottom left:** 1) *Members of the Maasai community meet at Olpalagilagi Primary School to discuss the formation of the Olderikesi Wildlife Conservancy*; 2) *Saitoti while out tracking lions*; 3) *Calvin Cottar is presented with a goat by the teachers and parents of Olpalagilagi Primary School as a token of their appreciation*; 4) *An elephant looks on as Saitoti tracks for lions*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

There are nine other conservancies around the MMNR, and a handful more in other parts of the country, which all make regular, direct payments to local landowners. Similar approaches have been employed by Wilderness Safaris in Namibia and the Nature Conservancy in the United States, among others. While none of them can be said to offer financial benefits on the same scale as Olderkesi, Cottar is not alone in seeing this as a promising solution.

Indeed, two studies published last year demonstrate the effectiveness of Kenya’s conservancy approach. According to one of these assessments, despite lack-lustre political support conservancies managed to achieve “direct economic benefits to poor landowner households, poverty alleviation, rising land values, and increasing wildlife numbers”. The other study saw a direct positive effect on lion populations within Kenya’s conservancies, with a nearly three-fold increase in just ten years.

However, while these results seem promising, there will always be areas outside of conservancy boundaries – borderlands and buffer zones – where human-wildlife conflict are bound to continue. There’s not enough funding available to expand the conservancies enough to eliminate these conflict zones. The question, then, is whether people can learn to co-exist with lions and other wildlife even when there is no monthly payment to be collected.

The lions and their Guardians

As Kamunu Saitoti waits patiently, hoping to glimpse the new lion cubs when they finally appear from the thicket, he is joined by a younger Lion Guardian, Kikanai Ole Masarie. Not long after, a battered Land Cruiser arrives with one of the organisation’s founders, Director of Science Stephanie Dolrenry. The two warriors pile into the vehicle, and they all set off in search of the cubs.

“These lions are not like those in the parks,” Dolrenry explains. “There’s no tourism here, so they are not habituated to people or cars. We’ll be lucky if we find them at all. They can be extremely shy, especially with young cubs.”

Four lion cubs with mother — The first sighting of lioness Nenki’s four young cubs © Marcus Westberg

But this is a lucky day, it seems. With thorny acacia bushes screeching against the glass and metal of the bouncing vehicle, the team suddenly finds itself in a veritable crowd of cats. Dolrenry, like the Guardians, can identify them all. Mere metres from the car, Meoshi, her three cubs, and her mother, Selenkay, lounge in the shade. A few dozen paces away, but on their way to join them, Meoshi’s sister Nenki with her own four cubs. Much smaller than Meoshi’s, these were the young lions whose tracks Saitoti was following. This is the first time anyone has laid eyes on this new generation.

“Selenkay is a bit of a celebrity around here,” Dolrenry says. “She causes problems like no other lion, but she’s a tough one, and it’s hard not to admire her.”
Saitoti nods. Selenkay is his favourite lion – her guile and tenacity are something to be respected. She and her family frequently target cattle and give the Guardians plenty of headaches. She has been hunted more times than anyone cares to remember. One of her sisters has fallen victim to poison, and so too has one of her mates, while another sister was killed by spear. She has endured three male takeovers and has even attacked a Maasai moran to protect her young cubs. Like the owners of the livestock she frequently kills, she is a true warrior.

But her legacy is far greater than her own reputation. Her longevity, itself the result of the unyielding commitment of Saitoti, Masarie, and the other Guardians and the growing tolerance of the Maasai inhabiting these rangelands, has helped to connect populations in vital conservation areas and has added much-needed genetic diversity to established prides. One of her sons has made it as far north as Nairobi National Park where he is now breeding successfully.

**Left:** *Lion Guardian Kikanai Ole Masarie celebrates the sighting of lioness Nenki’s new cubs with a fresh cup of tea*; **Right:** *A pair of male lions take shelter in the shade of a tree.* Both photos © Marcus Westberg

Saitoti did not become a Guardian because he loved lions. Instead, he was in trouble and needed a job. Arrested for being part of an illegal hunt, his father had to sell three cows to have him released on bail. That made him reconsider his path. Killing lions, despite bringing prestige and honour, also brought hardship.

“For the first two years my feelings about lions were the same,” Saitoti says. “This was just a job. But slowly, things began to change. They give food for my family, and they help educate my children. I even buy veterinary medicine for my cattle with my salary from the lions.”

“And we still get the girls!” Masarie chips in with a broad smile, referring to the social status that killing lions – and, more recently, protecting lions – can bring to a young Maasai man. At 24, he is part of a younger generation of Guardians, and his words are significant, as they hint at an ability for long-held Maasai beliefs and traditions to change.

“The other warriors mostly stay at home, but we are close to the lions every day, tracking them and finding lost cattle. The girls know we must be very brave!” Masarie adds.
Saitoti smiles and continues: “For me, now, I feel there is no difference between the lions and my cows at home. I care about them equally.”

Male lion — “For me, now, I feel there is no difference between the lions and my cows at home. I care about them equally.” – Kamunu Saitoti © Marcus Westberg

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Marcus Westberg

Marcus Westberg is an acclaimed photographer and writer, focusing primarily on conservation and development issues in Sub-Saharan Africa. A photojournalism finalist in the 2015 Wildlife Photographer of the Year, Marcus works closely with several non-profit organisations and projects across the continent. He is a conservation and community development advisor for Luambe Conservation in Zambia.

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Exploring Africa’s Oceans Gallery
Home to some of the most spectacular and treasured life, the oceans and seas surrounding Africa contain a multitude of creatures that thrive in the warm and cold currents that run along our continent. Various bodies of water surround Africa – the Mediterranean Sea to the north, the Suez Canal and the Red Sea along the Sinai Peninsula to the northeast, the Indian Ocean to the east and southeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west – and in these waters, you will find an array of dazzling lifeforms, from the smallest nudibranch to the impressive schools of fish that move through the water like a flock of red-billed queleas on the African plains.

GO TO THE GALLERY HERE

DEA announces 2018 rhino and elephant poaching stats to date

The DEA has released its rhino management report for 2018, to the end of August. The report is thorough and worth reading in its entirety. Notable figures coming from the report (this is not a complete summary):

1. 508 rhino were poached in South Africa, compared to 688 for the same period in 2017;

2. 292 rhino were poached in Kruger National Park, compared to 333 for the same period in 2017;

3. 83 rhino were poached in KwaZulu-Natal, compared to 163 for the same period in 2017;

4. Approximately 400 suspects have been arrested (162 in Kruger) on a range of charges including rhino poaching, and 13 wildlife traffickers (five Chinese nationals and eight South Africans) were arrested by the Hawks while en route to China, Hong Kong and Vietnam at the time of their arrests;

5. Elephant poaching is on the increase, with 58 elephants were poached in the Kruger during 2018 to date;

6. Rhino horn trading: Since the lifting of the moratorium on the domestic trade in rhino horn in 2017, a total of 28 permits have been issued for the trade of rhinoceros horns and 12 permits actually granted to 16 buyers for the sale of 1,219kg rhino horn.

Poaching is always worse during the dry season in Africa, when wildlife movements are more predictable (animals seek out remaining water sources) and the bushveld is less dense, so animals are easier to see.

Media release by Department of Environmental Affairs

The South African Department of Environmental Affairs has released a statement highlighting their progress on the Implementation of the Integrated Strategic Management of Rhinoceros. The report back covers the period 1 January to 30 August 2018.

The Integrated Strategic Management of Rhinoceros approach was adopted by Cabinet in 2014 and draws together the work of the Department together with the Justice, Crime Prevention and Security (JCPS) Cluster Departments and Agencies. This is supported by the work of South African National Parks (SANParks), the provincial conservation authorities, the South African Revenue Service (SARS), the Asset Forfeiture Unit, the Financial Intelligence Unit in the Ministry of Finance and National Prosecuting Authority (NPA).

Importantly, the ranger corps continue to play a key role in the conservation of South Africa’s fauna and flora; and in government’s anti-poaching efforts.

Compulsory Interventions

Intensive Protection Zones (IPZ)

The Intensive Protection Zone approach has allowed government to effectively allocate limited resources to ensure maximum protection in areas of greatest importance.

There has been success with the IPZ in Kwa-Zulu Natal (KZN) in particular – as a result of collaboration between the SAPS and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Early detection and rapid response, not just within the IPZ but the parks in general, has been bolstered by the use of additional technology that we have been able to procure with the support of the Peace Parks Foundation (PPF). SANParks continues to provide K9 support as well as personnel training.

The integration of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife within the SAPS National Operation Rhino information gathering, operations and case management system is also proving to be critical.

The collaboration between Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the provincial SAPS KwaZulu-Natal Stock Theft and Endangered Species Unit has also yielded benefits.

Game-changing technological interventions

The Department through SANParks is actively pursuing appropriate technologies as force multipliers. Superior connectivity and situational awareness not only reduces risk to the rangers, it also ensures more proactive engagement and the utilisation of resources in a cost-effective manner.

The Department is currently piloting home grown solutions between the parks as end users, the CSIR and industry; such as a mobile radar system. This system has ensured the decrease of rhino poaching in high density areas by more than eighty percent; and has ensured that the rangers now can dominate the night hours as well.

Operation Rhino

Following on the successes of Operation Rhino 1 to 8, implementation of Operation Rhino 9 is progressing well; operating from the respective Mission Area Joint Operations Centres (MAJOC’s) in Acornhoek, Phalaborwa and Hluhluwe.

Since January 2018 approximately 400 suspects have been arrested on a range of charges including rhino poaching.

Additional successes recorded under Operation Rhino 9 include:

• The initiation of intelligence-driven operations in Mpumalanga resulting in the seizure of numerous unlicensed firearms and ammunition;
• The seizure of an assortment of incriminating evidence, including cell-phones and axes, during arrests;
• Securing a range of sentences following a number of convictions with the maximum sentence being 9 years imprisonment.

Arrests, investigations and prosecutions

Arrests

In addition to the arrests effected by Operation Rhino 9, a total of 13 wildlife traffickers (five Chinese nationals and eight South Africans) were arrested between 1 January and 31 August 2018 by the Hawks. These Level 3 and 4 traffickers were en route to China, Hong Kong and Vietnam at the time of their arrests.

More than 60.92kg of rhino horn was confiscated and linked to poaching crime scenes in KwaZulu-Natal and the Northern Cape.

For the Kruger National Park, the number of arrests of alleged poachers stands at 162 for the period 1 January 2018 to 31 August 2018.

A total of 145 weapons have been seized in rhino-related incidents both inside and outside the KNP since the beginning of 2018; and a total of 83 rhino horn confiscated in the same period.

It is still of concern that our own personnel are being arrested for rhino poaching related offences. Since January, four officials have been arrested by SANParks enforcement staff in the Kruger National Park for poaching-related offences. These include members of the SAPS and the SANDF.

Since SANParks introduced integrity management throughout the organisation to support ongoing anti-poaching efforts, a number of officials have been dismissed following disciplinary processes. A number of these have also faced criminal charges.

Investigations and Prosecutions

One of the challenges facing new enforcement when it comes to poaching-related offences is that suspected poaching kingpins and syndicate members hide and even dispose of the proceeds of their alleged activities as a result of lengthy trial delays. A welcome development is that a number of rhino poaching related cases are now being dealt with by the Asset Forfeiture Unit (AFU).

Investigations

There are currently 530 rhino poaching related cases on the court roll involving 750 accused and 1,738 charges.

Close to 300 of these cases are trial-ready.

The charges range from rhino poaching, to rhino horn trafficking, to the illegal possession of firearms and ammunition.

Some of these high-profile cases include:

I. State v Groenewald and 8 others (Pretoria High Court) Trial date: 1 – 12 February 2021
II. State v Ras and 9 others (Pretoria High Court) Trial date: 7 December 2018.
III. State v Gwala and others (Mtubatuba Regional Court) Trial date: 26-30 November 2018.
IV. State v Nyalungu and 9 others (Nelspruit Regional Court) Trial date: 23 November 2018
V. State v Landela (Skukuza Regional Court) Trial date: November 2018
VI. State v Ndlovu and others (Grahamstown High Court) Trial date: 26-30 November 2018
VII. State v Petrus Sydney Mabuza, Nozwelo Mahumane, Moshe Thobela and Romez Khoza (White River Magistrates Court). Next court date: 26 October 2018.

Prosecutions

From January to August 2018 a total of 70 cases, involving 163 accused were finalised. The trials have resulted in 93% guilty verdicts, translating to 288 years in sentencing.

Ports of Entry and Exit

The Green Scorpions continue with their work at OR Tambo International Airport and assist the DPCI with cases where illegally traded rhino horn have been detected. To mark World Wildlife Day 2018, the Green Scorpions, Hawks and SARS K9 unit and customs and excise officials participated in an awareness raising day at OR Tambo International Airport, reaching thousands of international travellers as they passed through the arrivals hall.

Training

The Department’s Environmental Management Inspectorate (Green Scorpions) has been regularly training officials based at ports of entry and exit on matters pertaining to the illegal trade in wildlife, such as rhino horns and other parts and derivatives. Over 2,000 officials from 2017 to date have been trained at South African ports. This includes members of the SA National Defence Force (SANDF) responsible for patrolling border lines between ports.

Awareness-raising

Commodity identification manuals, audio visual training resources and awareness material have been developed through a collaborative project between the DEA and the World Wildlife Fund South Africa (WWF-SA) – with funding provided by the US International Narcotics and Law Enforcement (INL). These manuals and associated posters are being distributed as part of an on-going port and borderline training programme and target law enforcement authorities, port operators and road traffic officers.

Joint Operations

In line with the Integrated Strategic Management approach DEA, SANParks and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife have initiated joint planning, and operations to combat rhino poaching.

This includes deployments into provincial parks with rhino populations to provide back up, support and clandestine operations to take place in a joint, but independent, manner.

The placement of Kruger National Park operations staff into provincial parks in KwaZulu-Natal with rhino populations is allowing independent operations to be planned and executed.

In addressing the increase in rhino poaching in the province, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife has also made some critical appointments of field rangers into the Parks which has improved the observation and reaction ability in all areas.

The improved sharing of information between all law enforcement agencies has allowed for more focused prevention, effective investigations, and successes.

Managing Rhino Populations

Translocation

Translocation of rhino has proven to be an effective tool in enhancing the safety of these animals, encouraging population growth and expanding rhino range. The emergence of bovine tuberculosis in rhinos in Kruger, however, has placed some constraints on the full benefits of white rhino strongholds. SANParks is now using innovative ways to overcome risks associated with diseases.

Biological Management

The integrated initiatives of SANParks to manage its rhino population have had varied successes. In our rhino parks that are more than 50,000ha on average, black rhinos of both sub-species are increasing and they now boast 63 south-central and 199 south-western black rhino.

White rhino populations in other national parks are also increasing, with 250 counted by the end of 2017.

In 2017 the black rhino population in the Kruger National Park was between 427 to 586 animals. SANParks’ Black Rhino Guardian initiative has most likely contributed to halting the decline in black rhino numbers in the Kruger National Park.

White rhino numbers in the Park, however, continued to decline, with the population estimated at between 4,759 and 5,532 individuals during 2017. White rhino, unlike black rhino, were affected by the drought – with natural mortalities increasing from 1% to 1.5% during the drought, while the birth rate dropped from approximately 9% to 5% one year after the drought.

Poaching Statistics

There has been a decrease in the number of rhino poached nationally compared to the same period in 2017, with nearly all provinces experiencing dramatic declines.

Between 1 January 2018 and 31 August 2018 508 rhino were poached, compared to 691 for the same period in 2017.

Rhino poaching numbers in the Kruger National Park also continue to decline. In the period under review, a total of 292 rhino were poached, compared to 332 in the same period last year.

This decline comes despite a dramatic escalation in poacher activity inside the Park, ranging from sightings, to poacher camps found, to incursions. A total of 1,873 incidents were recorded in the period under review. This is compared to 1,702 in 2017.

It is also particularly pleasing to note the decline in the numbers of rhino poached in KwaZulu-Natal during the period under review.

In the same period in 2017, 163 rhino were poached, whereas this year the number stands at 83. This is extremely noteworthy and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, working in collaboration with the SAPS, are to be commended.

The provincial and national breakdown for the period 1 January to 30 August 2018 is as follows:

National	2017 (8 mths)	2018 (8 mths)
Kruger National Park	333	292
Gauteng	3	0
Limpopo	54	25
Mpumalanga	31	38
North West	56	50
Eastern Cape	4	13
Free State	28	4
Northern Cape	19	3
KwaZulu-Natal	163	83
Western Cape	0	0
Total	688	508

Regrettably, elephant poaching is also on the increase. A total of 58 elephants were poached in the Kruger National Park between 1 January and 31 August 2018. Specific risk areas have been identified and strategies to address the threat are being adapted and implemented.

Long-term Sustainability Interventions

Export of live rhinoceros

In line with requirements in the Convention for the International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), the Department of Environmental Affairs has recommended the export of a total of 538 live rhino from South Africa since 2014. The exports were both for zoological purposes and for reintroduction to range states.

The majority of the exports (361) were to former and existing rhino range states, including Botswana, Chad, Namibia, Rwanda and Zambia. The translocations form part of the plans outlined in the African Rhino Range States Conservation Plan, which seeks to establish new rhino populations within the continent as well as the African Rhino Conservation Plan.

One such translocation was of six black rhino that were translocated to the Zakhouma National Park in Chad in May 2018. It is the first time in 46 years that there are rhino in Chad.

The remaining total of 177 rhino were recommended for export to non-range states in North America, Asia, Middle East and Europe.

It should be noted that the export of live rhino from South Africa to international zoo facilities is restricted to facilities that are either members of the World Associations of Zoos and Aquaria (WAZA), institutional members of an affiliated member of WAZA or an accredited member of a regional zoo association. These institutions must be recognised by the CITES Management Authority of the state of import as a reputable association.

Domestic sale of rhino horn

Since the lifting of the moratorium on the domestic trade in rhino horn by the Constitutional Court in 2017, a total of 28 permits have been issued for the trade of rhinoceros horns.

In terms of the permits issued, 12 permits were granted for the sale of 1,219kg rhino horn, while permits were granted to 16 buyers.

Stockpiles

The Department commenced with full compliance audits on private rhino horn stocks in August 2018. This process will ensure that all audits conducted by the provinces have been correctly done.

The DEA’s Environmental Management Inspectors will ensure that all rhino horns in private possession have been correctly audited by the provinces, including marking with an external number and a microchip and measurements and weights of each horn. It will further be confirmed that DNA samples and photographs were taken of the horns and that the information on the horns is correctly entered into the National Stockpile Database, either through the Department’s Electronic Document Management System or the eRhoDIS App (from the University of Pretoria’s Veterinary Genetics Lab). These audits will also include horns that have been traded legally since the lifting of the moratorium on domestic trade.

The rhino horn stockpiles must comply with the Norms and Standards for the marking of rhinoceros and rhinoceros horn and for the hunting of rhinoceros for trophy hunting purposes.

One of the new additions to the soon to be published amended Norms and Standards is the reporting of any rhinoceros mortality, irrespective of the cause of such mortality, as well as the theft of a rhinoceros horn, which must be reported to the permit issuing authority within five working days of discovering the death of such rhinoceros or the theft of such rhinoceros horn. Rhino owners and managers of farms where rhinoceros are kept have to ensure that they comply with the amended Norms and Standards.

Communities

By creating a legitimate economy for communities, particularly those in the rural areas where most of our national parks are situated, it is hoped that people will be deterred from rhino poaching-related activities. Giving them a stake in natural resource management and ownership will enable poverty-stricken communities to access greater economic opportunities. This is one of the aims of the government’s National Biodiversity Economy Strategy (NBES).

The 3rd Biodiversity Economy Indaba (BEI) hosted by DEA earlier this year ended with pledges by stakeholders in the wildlife, bioprospecting and bio trade, and eco-tourism sectors to ensure greater inclusivity and transformation of the sector.

Among the pledges included a SANParks undertaking to donate 3 000 head of game to emerging wildlife farmers and communities in the next three years, the pledge to donate 1,200 head of game over four years by Ezemvelo KZN wildlife, and the promise to donate 1 500 animals by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency in support of transformation and mobilisation of rural previously disadvantaged communities over five years.

Other community developments include:

• The identification of 11 community rhino hotspots, and the monitoring of and direct deployment of programmes there.
• Conducting skills audits to assess literacy levels, which will assist the Department with the design of relevant educational interventions in affected communities.
• The deployment of around 1,500 Environmental Monitors.
• Undertaking youth education and awareness programmes in partnership with local businesses
• Identifying offices in four provinces to support the creation of a communication and facilitation mechanism for liaison between the Department and rhino protection structures in the communities
• Partnering with the EWT to develop and drive a restorative justice programme guideline that will assist in creating alternatives to imprisonment, and provide offenders with an opportunity to share their experiences with communities

International and regional cooperation

International cooperation is a critical component of our overall response strategy to the scourge of wildlife crime. In this regard, we have continued to cooperate with a number of strategic partners across the world and activities are being implemented in terms of our existing MoU’s.

Mozambique

Significant progress has been made with the implementation of the MOU between South Africa and Mozambique.

Within the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTFP) the Mozambican government is in the process of moving 225 families from Bingo to Chitare. The relocation will take place in 2019 as the houses are currently being constructed for the relocated families.

Construction of 720 new houses for Mavodze village is also currently underway, and a tender process is also underway for the construction of 130 new houses in Salane.

In August 2018 a group of 70 Mozambican youth from the resettled communities visited the Kruger National Park where they interacted with South African youth from the villages surrounding the Park. The aim was to gain a further understanding of the issues around rhino poaching. They also took part in a soccer tournament.

With regard to enforcement, law enforcement officials from both countries continue to share information in an effort to curb wildlife crimes, particularly rhino poaching.

China

South Africa and China are this year celebrating 20 years of formal diplomatic relations. Over the past 20 years, the two countries achieved a significant number of bilateral cooperation agreements in areas including trade, investment, economic and people-to-people relations.

On the 6 February, SANParks received a donation of R200,000 for the fight against wildlife crime from the Chinese Embassy and the Chinese Community in South Africa. The Chinese government’s comprehensive efforts on wildlife are to be commended.

The Chinese Embassy has also been instrumental in assisting the Alibaba Foundation and Paradise International Foundation set up the first African Ranger Awards that were held earlier this year, and during which two SANParks rangers were acknowledged.

Conclusion

Rhino poaching is a national priority crime, and as such, all the relevant government departments will continue their close collaboration to ensure that this iconic species is conserved for generations to come. A recent example of this integrated effort, although it does not fall within the reporting period covered in this statement, is the arrest this week of at least six key syndicate members in Mpumalanga which is a significant breakthrough in the fight against rhino poaching and rhino horn trafficking.

The Department of Environmental Affairs calls on members of the public to report any suspicious activities around wildlife to its environmental crime hotline which is 0800 205 005 or the SAPS number 10111.

Tracking with the Ju/’Hoansi Master Trackers in Kruger

The four trackers at Lanner Gorge in the Kruger National Park © Simon Sephton

There is a great deal of mystique surrounding the Bushman/San and their tracking prowess. Fuelled by storytellers from Laurens van der Post to latter-day mythologists, the legends live on, rendered now deeply poignant by the plight of the remaining ancients. People on the brink.

The Ju/’hoansi of Nyae Nyae

The Ju/’hoansi of Nyae Nyae in Namibia are the last standard-bearers of southern Africa’s hunter-gathers. For, uniquely and tragically, only they have the full suite, however precarious: their signal click language, access to wild land, the legal right to hunt by traditional means, and a slender, unbroken knowledge bridge to millennia upon millennia of savanna-attuned living. They hold the flinted keys to surviving and thriving in a pre-agricultural, pre-industrial world.

I went to the remote //xa/oba settlement in north-eastern Namibia because there, as Louis Liebenberg told me, I would find three old-way geniuses: /ui-Kxunta, /ui-G/aqo and ≠oma Daqm. Indigenous Master Trackers. The only three formally recognised as such in Namibia, although there are others out there, scarcely known, talents unseen.

Two Master Trackers in Nyae Nyae Pan in Namibia — /ui-G/aqo and /ui-Kxunta in Nyae Nyae Pan in Namibia © Simon Sephton

In the scrubby grasslands of Bushmanland they showed me how they could stay on the tracks of gemsbok (oryx) for as long as my water bottle lasted in the scorching heat (a couple of hours). They pointed out in the soft sand two sets of blurred parallel tracks of some four-legged creatures – a bat-eared fox and black-backed jackal, they said.

Now anyone who has walked through mopane thickets in Kruger knows how maze-like they can be. One tousled bush looks very much like every other. A good place to get lost. The same can be said of the terminalia scrub of Nyae Nyae. We set off following roan tracks and came across a mamba, the continent’s deadliest snake, disappearing into the bush. Some hours later, as the trackers threaded their way unerringly back through the uniform bushveld to wherever we had left the vehicle, we passed yet another indistinguishable bush. “That’s the mamba bush”, they said. Okay. No questions.

Two trackers birding in the fever tree forest in the Makuleke Concession — Ui-G and Ui-K birding in the fever tree forest in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

A rare skill, this tracking art. There are probably only a dozen masters of the intact African lineage left alive. And yet the bearers of this long and riveting history, the //xa/oba community, face constant food insecurity and are burdened by wholly treatable diseases, TB foremost. Little by way of employment. Hunting and gathering has its limits in depleted Nyae Nyae. Poverty is their crushing condition.

Across the Kalahari Basin, this is the 21st century signature of being San.

Trackers and guide on a snake spoor in Makuleke Concession — Guide Kewan Bagley, Dam Debe and ≠oma Daqm on a snake spoor in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

Displaying extraordinary tracking prowess in the Kruger

About a million and a half tourists visit the Kruger National Park each year. About ten thousand of the more serious devotees go on wilderness walks. Walking through the bush brings all the senses into play, the full symphony, along with a sense of trepidation – you are back where it all began, on the African savanna. Predators, prey, and dust.

And so, on 28 June 2018, the three Namibian masters plus another tracker, Dam Debe (last seen in the movie, The Gods must be Crazy, as a child) arrived at Kruger’s northern Pafuri Gate. The first day in the Makuleke Concession was for orientation, and sightings of civets, white-tailed mongoose, bushbuck, and nyala were all unknown animals to them, though not for long – once seen they became firmly imprinted in their minds.

The four trackers and Clive Thompson at the Pafuri Gate, Kruger National Park — The four trackers and Clive Thompson at the Pafuri Gate © Simon Sephton

They tracked an eland – totem of many a Bushmen clan. They narrated its movements for us: “Here the bull stopped, half-turned and looked back at us. Then it went on. Here it nibbled at the end bits of the mopane. See the moist twigs. See the crumbs on the ground. Now it has trotted off at speed. We won’t be seeing it again.”

Guide and four trackers searching for tracks in the Makuleke Concession — Searching for tracks in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

The next day we went far off the beaten track to Makuleke’s bushman painting site. The last San walked this precipitous sandstone terrain perhaps three hundred years ago. Our local lead guide went a little astray, as she wound her way over-circuitously through heavily vegetated gullies and ridges to the gallery.

The trackers, even though they were walking behind us, cautioned us of the buffalo in the thicket ahead before we even heard or saw them. No oxpeckers around to give us their rasping warning chirrups.

Trackers in the Makuleke Concession in Kruger National Park — Trackers scrum in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

That figurine on the cave wall which everyone had seen as an eagle was in fact a person wearing a kaross, they told us. That which we thought was a human was an animal, but the forelegs had been washed away by centuries of seepage.

In jest, I asked one of the trackers to take us back to the vehicle – hills and dales away. Nyae Nyae is boundlessly horizontal – plains and pan country, without rocky outcrops. The occasional baobab spears the distant perimeter. Makuleke’s bushman paintings are tucked away in the hills, just before the land plunges down to the Luvuvhu River. Clarens sandstones, basalt ridges, thick vegetation, mosaic topography – an utterly alien 3D world for a 2D Kalaharian.

“Sure”, he said. It had taken us forty-five minutes to labour away through the crumpled landscape to the paintings. It took our tracker twenty minutes to cut his way directly back to the road, just short of the vehicle.

“Could have come out at the vehicle,” he said. “But quicker to hit the road first.”

Four Master Trackers in Makuleke Concession in Kruger National Park — /ui-Kxunta, Dam Debe, ≠om Daqm and /ui-G/aqo in the Makuleke Concession in Kruger © Simon Sephton

The Bushmen of old had a pact with lions: We don’t hunt them, they don’t hunt us. It had worked for /ui-G/aqo years ago in Nyae Nyae when, alone on a hunting trip and sleeping up in an acacia thicket, he was surrounded in the middle of the night by a pride. He told us that the lions of the human spirit told the others to leave him alone, and they did.

I was wondering about the currency of that pact as we tracked lions in Kruger’s Nyalaland wilderness.

The trackers then pick up the tracks of a paired lion and lioness.

“They have switched from ambling to hunting,” they say.

“How so?” I ask.

“Because now they are walking apart and see, their paw prints have become slightly smaller. Their muscles are tensing.”

Then the trackers stopped where the lions had frozen a little earlier, and looked ahead to the right. They walked twenty-five paces in that direction.

“Come here,” they beckon us over. “This is where a buffalo bull meandering along suddenly smelt the lions, stopped and stared at them. Then he bolted away – look at the dig mark in those tracks. The lions bounded after him, but not far. They gave up.”

Master Tracker showing the sign for a lion in Kruger National Park — /ui-Kxunta, for good reason, gives the sign for a lion: clenched hand, thumb and pinkie as cat’s ears © Clive Thompson

Over six walking trails, four in Makuleke and two in Nyalaland, and the masters never did lose any of the tracks we chose to follow, even when the quarry turned out to be beyond our endurance to find. This was no problem to us at all, as the fascination was in the twisting journey, not an embodied destination.

We had some knowledgeable people on the trail, including accomplished Kruger guides – and their faces said it all. Each tracking episode ended with guest and guide shaking their head in stunned appreciation, then handshakes all round. It was better than an opera and in the best of opera houses.

Zebras in the fever tree forest in Makuleke Concession — Zebras in the fever tree forest © Roy Terlien

Exploring Africa’s Oceans

Home to some of the most spectacular and treasured life, the oceans and seas surrounding Africa contain a multitude of creatures that thrive in the warm and cold currents that run along our continent. Various bodies of water surround Africa – the Mediterranean Sea to the north, the Suez Canal and the Red Sea along the Sinai Peninsula to the northeast, the Indian Ocean to the east and southeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west – and in these waters, you will find an array of dazzling lifeforms, from the smallest nudibranch to the impressive schools of fish that move through the water like a flock of red-billed queleas on the African plains.
Join us as we take a glimpse into the underwater world of our African oceans and seas through the eyes of photographers who submitted their photos into our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions.

? A healthy reef with an abundance of life in Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“The life-sustaining benefits of rainforest to our planet is more commonly known than those provided by a healthy ocean, but in fact, the ocean contributes even more – and I wanted to capture a photo conveying this message. The school of fish represents the ozone, and the reef below is Earth. Sadly, when it comes to the ocean, the ‘out of sight out of mind’ way of thinking often applies. This has led to major pollution and overfishing. Should we carry along the same path, it’s estimated that there will be no fish left in the ocean by 2050. However, all is not lost as marine reserves around the globe have proven what a remarkable recovery the marine ecosystem can make if given full protection. Sodwana Bay is the oldest marine reserve in South Africa and its healthy reefs and rich; diverse marine life is a prime example of this.” ~ Geo Cloete

? The rare and protected tiger rockcod at Rocktail Bay, iSimangaliso Marine Park, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“The tiger rock cod is a rare saltwater fish species. Not a lot is known about the species, but they occur in deep water reefs and is vulnerable to overfishing. They are solitary and derive their name from the beautiful colour and spots.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

? A green turtle swims in the blue waters at Marsa Abu Dabbab in the Red Sea, Egypt © Cristian Umili (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

? “Compass in the dark” at Atlantis Reef dive site, Simon’s Town, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“I went diving at the newly discovered Atlantis reef. The visibility was less than five metres, and it was a disappointing dive. I saw this compass jellyfish at the safety stop at five metres after completion of the dive. I was swimming slowly after it, blacking out the background to highlight its vivid colours.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

? A humpback whale breaches in the waters by Nosy Boraha Island (Île Sainte-Marie), Madagascar © Gudkov Andrey (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

? A blue shark just below the surface about 40km off Cape Point, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“Sail southwest from Cape Point and eventually you will be surrounded by the blue horizon in all directions. It’s here, in the deep, pelagic waters, where blue sharks (Prionace glauca) call it home. It’s a beautiful part of the world – this blue ‘desert’ with its hidden abundance of life. Inshore, people often mistake the pectoral fin of a sunfish floating on the surface to be that of a shark’s dorsal fin. Out here in the deep blue waters, the fin indeed belongs to a blue shark, swimming just below the surface. Blue sharks have the largest distribution range around the globe, and are unfortunately the shark species targeted the most by fishermen for their fins.” ~ Geo Cloete

? A dense concentration of box jellyfish in the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“In 2016, I published a photo of an unusual and yet to be described behaviour displayed by box jellyfish. The scene was of a huge congregation which consisted of a densely stacked (but spread out) base. From the base, several ‘columns’ stretched up high into the water column. Due to the sheer size of the smack of jellyfish, it was impossible to capture the complete scene in a single frame, even though I was using a fisheye lens. This photo depicts a portion of the base of the smack, illustrating the dense concentration of jellyfish.” ~ Geo Cloete

? “Shadows in the water” at the Aliwal Shoal, South Africa © Christophe Lapeze (Photographer of the Year 2017 Entrant)

? A gasflame nudibranch in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? A frenzy of dolphins off the coast of Cote d-Ivoire © Gary Krosin (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? A blacktip shark cruises the lagoon as a storm approaches in Aldabra atoll, Seychelles © Adam Mitchell (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“The Aldabra atoll has one of the highest shark densities of anywhere in the western Indian Ocean. This particular shark was cruising with the outgoing current towards the lagoon entrance as a storm front darkened the sky on the horizon. Within minutes, the blindingly bright white flats had been obscured by the downpour, and I lost the shark in the rain. Fast as they are, I doubt this shark was quick enough to outrun the storm.” ~ Adam Mitchell

? A large school of slingers at Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Anthony Grote (Photographer of the Year 2016 Entrant)

? A close up of a giant sea clam in Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“Giant sea clams typically occur on the east coast of Africa in clear water of less than 10 metres. They are filter feeders by their specialised gills. The visible mantle tissue is responsible for its colourful appearance, and it harbours large populations of single-celled photosynthetic algae or zooxanthellae.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

Great Lakes: A Solo, Man-powered Expedition

In early 2018, I set out to journey across the three largest of the African Great Lakes: Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika, and Lake Victoria. My objective was to traverse the region by “fair means”: solo, self-sufficient, and entirely human-powered. I would start in the south, and make my away across the lakes via kayak, paddling each day and coming to shore each night to sleep, while between lakes I would travel by bicycle. Without engines and guides, I would have no choice but to embrace the landscape and its people without any degree of separation. And, if I succeeded, it would be in a style that I could be proud of.

Lake Victoria viewed from a kayak — Lake Victoria is a relatively shallow and extremely wide lake, quite unlike Tanganyika and Malawi, which are narrow and deep rift valley lakes. What it does share with the other lakes are a high number of endemic species and a population that’s largely dependent on the lake for their way of life © Ross Exler

My journey through the Great Lakes of Africa began as a student in the research lab of the University of Colorado, as we explored inhabitants of Lake Tanganyika. I quickly discovered that the Great Lakes has a massive impact on global biodiversity, as well as the lives of millions of people who call the region home. This formed a seed of inspiration for me to gain a more ‘hands-on’ research experience alongside local nature conservancy the Tuungane Project.

I designed this expedition to be the purest and most challenging form of expedition travel. I planned to enchain the African Great Lakes by human power – kayaking each lake and bicycling in between – without a support team, solo, and carrying all of my equipment along with me. In that way, by exposing myself to the insecurities of being alone and the rigours of human-powered travel, I would strip down the expedition to its purest elements.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lake Tanganyika is like the big brother of Lake Malawi. It’s also a Rift Valley lake, so it is long, narrow, very deep, and contains an incredible diversity of mostly endemic fish species*; 2) *On this expedition, I used a tandem, folding kayak, which could be packed up in bags for transport between lakes*; 3) Lake Malawi is extremely important for the population living around it, though while there I saw ecologically destructive fishing practices. Fishing regulations supposedly exist, but I didn’t see any enforcement whatsoever. All photos © Ross Exler

I knew that a trip of this scale, with this level of commitment, is something that shouldn’t be entered into lightly. The most important thing that I needed to do to succeed on the trip and remain safe was to prepare sufficiently, but that preparation comes in myriad forms. For me, this expedition was the culmination of years of preparation: studying the region in university, sharpening my wilderness survival skills in the Amazon, educating myself on tropical diseases, spending time in Africa becoming acclimated to the culture and learning about dangerous animals and how to avoid them, mastered the use of my field equipment, and countless days spent on the water. This expedition was something that I had aspired to for a long time, but I only decided to move forward with it once I thought that I was sufficiently prepared.

That said, I also needed to do significant research into the different areas, routes, and potential problems that could present themselves along the way. Even things as banal as border crossing procedures aren’t necessarily so straightforward when you intend to cross the border on water. I spent months online researching topics from crocodile attacks to weather patterns. Where possible, I also reached out to people who could provide information, such as lodge owners and NGO workers, and they were very generous with their time.

Aerial view of bike on dirt road in Africa — For getting between the Great Lakes I assembled my folding bicycle and trailer, loaded them with my equipment, and cycled to the next lake © Ross Exler

My Journey

A trip like this isn’t for the faint of heart. Risk comes with the territory, but if I was going to succeed in this endeavour, I needed to be an expert in my craft, trust my instincts, and remain hyper-aware throughout the trip. All of these things are significantly magnified by being alone. At a baseline, I was certainly more at risk when alone and had fewer options for recourse if things do go wrong, but perhaps more challenging is the psychological aspect of spending months making decisions that have significant consequences, and then dealing with the endless internal monologue that is second-guessing each decision. There’s no comforting consensus when you are alone, and it takes a certain amount of resolve to be able to, or willing to, push through the excruciating loneliness and isolation.

When I would arrive in a village, I would immediately be greeted by a crowd of curious onlookers. The thing is that wherever you go in the world, people are people. Connecting on a human level, even when there was a language barrier, was relatively effortless.

Every community extended to me great warmth and welcoming, despite virtually all of the communities experiencing the daily struggle to a certain extent. Poverty is a great challenge through the entire region, and yet it didn’t impede the kindness that I experienced in every village.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *I only ‘bush’ camped when there was no one around, and no one knew of my presence – in general, I didn’t like to camp near people without speaking to them*; 2) *On one of my first nights on the lake, I was greeted by dozens of smiling kids who helped me drag my boat onto the beach*; 3) *The people of Lake Tanganyika, living in this remote corner of Tanzania were surviving off the land – a timeless, subsistence way of life*; 4) *On the road, unlike on the lake, I was always around people. Some would jog along with me or wave and smile.* All photos © Ross Exler

Camping alone, however, was slightly concerning, and in general, I didn’t like to camp near people without speaking to them. That is to say, I only ‘bush’ camped when there was no one around, and no one knew of my presence. If that opportunity didn’t present itself, then I would go into a community and introduce myself and ask if it was alright for me to spend the night there.

By declaring my presence and asking for permission, I felt as though I belonged, even if only for the one night.

That said, no expedition like this is without significant danger. On the third day, while paddling north along the shoreline of Lake Malawi, I heard a splashing sound from the water. When I turned to look, I saw that a four or 5-metre crocodile had surfaced and was staring at me icily before it disappeared back under the surface. After that, I took even greater precautions to avoid crocodiles – paddling several kilometres offshore, avoiding river mouths and wetlands, and staying away from the water at night, and I was mostly able to neutralise that threat.

Still, I looked over my shoulder every few minutes for the remaining months of the trip, hoping that I wouldn’t find a large predatory reptile behind me.

**Left:** *Early one morning, an enormous Nile crocodile surfaced about five metres from my boat, looked at me coldly, and then vanished below the water*; **Right:** *The route would require approximately 1,500 miles of paddling and peddling, through Malawi, Tanzania, and Uganda.* Both photos © Ross Exler

Conservation and Sustainability

During my trip, I realised that the main issues are overfishing, unsustainable fishing practices, unsustainable agricultural practices such as bush charcoal production and steep hillside agriculture which lead to significant sediment inputs into the lake, climate change, and introduction of invasive species. The local human impacts, such as fishing pressures and agriculture, are particularly compounded by rapid population growth in the region.

Boats along the shore of Lake Malawi — Lake Malawi’s shortline was lined with small fishing villages built out of locally available materials © Ross Exler

Despite this, communities are very receptive to learning about sustainability. The local people understand that fish populations are decreasing over time, and they are hungry for education that can empower them to protect their resources.

I spoke with many fishermen and farmers who stated exactly this and voiced their understanding that these resources need to be protected so that they will continue to provide for local people well into the future.

Fishing nets on the shore of Lake Malawi — The population of Malawi has grown from approximately 3.5 million people in 1960 to over 18-million today, and many of those people live along the lake, where they can make a living by fishing. The impacts of this population growth on the environment were obvious as my trip progressed © Ross Exler

At the same time, some of these people are barely getting by, so alternative means of producing income is essential. When people are desperate, they are going to do whatever they have to do to survive, even if it’s a short-term gain that has significant long-term consequences. There also needs to be enforcement of fishing regulations, whether it’s conducted by the government or by a local community group such as the Beach Management Units, so that a few bad actors don’t damage the shared resource.

What the Tuungane Project is trying to do is to educate and foster growth in sustainable means of agricultural production and fish yields, alternative income, and grassroots enforcement of fishing regulations. They’re also working with Pathfinder International, another NGO, to improve family planning education and access to birth control, which will allow women to decide how many children they want to have and may reduce population growth. All of these working in conjunction is the only way forward.

Agriculture conservation seminar in Mahale — I stopped in a town north of Mahale to visit an international NGO, The Nature Conservancy (TNC), working in the area. They aim to empower local people through education and training, organisation, and by providing access to critical resources. While I was there a seminar on climate-smart agriculture was taking place © Ross Exler

Looking to the Future

I want to continue to be an ambassador for The Great Lakes region and continue to promote conservation initiatives. I think that the most pressing issue we need to consider is population growth, which leads to an increase in consumption and a correspondingly bigger footprint. More people will need more fish, which produce more plastic and turn more forests into agricultural lands, and so on.

But population growth is only experienced for a while; then it tends to level off, especially when people are empowered with knowledge of family planning and have access to birth control. So, I think that it’s essential that people get out there and help to educate others on sustainable behaviours so that the environment can be preserved.

Kayak off Lake Malawi's shore — Each morning, I’d paddle out a kilometre or two, and then turn and paddle up the shoreline. Most of the time, I would be close enough to shore to see villages and fishing boats, though occasionally I would cross bays large enough for me to find myself seven or eight kilometres offshore © Ross Exler

About the African Great Lakes

The African Great Lakes are a series of lakes that make up part of the Great Rift Valley lakes in East Africa. The lakes hold approximately 27% of the world’s fresh water and 10% of the world’s fish species.

The major African Great Lakes include Lake Victoria (26,563 sq mi), Lake Tanganyika (12,355 sq mi), Lake Malawi (11,428 sq mi), Lake Turkana (2,472 sq mi) and Lake Albert (2,046 sq mi). There are other smaller lakes in the region which include Lake Edward (977 sq mi), Lake Kivu (857 sq mi), Lake Mweru (1977 sq mi), and Lake Rukwa (759 sq mi). They are classified based on river basins, the presence of a draining river or its absence, and the size of the lake.

The exact number of lakes considered part of the African Great Lakes varies by list, and may include smaller lakes in the rift valleys, especially if they are part of the same drainage basin as the larger lakes, such as Lake Kyoga that is part of the Great Lakes system but is not itself considered a Great Lake, based on its size of 660 sq mi.

The three Great Lakes that Ross Exler traversed were Lake Tanganyika, the second largest lake in the world by volume, the second deepest lake, and the longest lake in the world; Lake Victoria, the second largest lake in the world by surface area; and Lake Malawi, thought to have the most species of fish of any lake in the world and is the fourth-largest by volume.

The Great Lakes region comprises of Burundi, Rwanda, northeastern Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, and northwestern Kenya and Tanzania – the areas lying between northern Lake Tanganyika, western Lake Victoria, and lakes Kivu, Edward and Albert. The term ‘ Great Lakes region’ is used in a broader sense to extend to all of Kenya and Tanzania, but not usually as far south as Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique nor as far north as Ethiopia, though these four countries border one of the Great Lakes.

An estimated 107 million people live in the Great Lakes region and depend almost exclusively on natural resources for their livelihoods – the lakes being a significant source of food, water and income. Overpopulation is now competing for the habitat used by many endangered species, including the mountain gorilla and the forest elephant. Resources have already deteriorated due to unchecked or unregulated exploitation, invasive species, habitat degradation, pollution, and eutrophication, though governments in the region are attempting to lessen the impact through integrated conservation and development projects

Mountain gorillas in Mahale Mountain National Park — In Mahale Mountain National Park, I had the good fortune of observing chimpanzees and avoiding crocodiles and hippos. Chimpanzees, our charismatic cousins, win the popularity contest when it comes to conservation in this region, and it’s easy to see why people love these stunning animals © Ross Exler

Development and conservation of the lakes and their basins are complicated by the fact that they are shared by more than one country, with actions often being implemented at national levels in the absence of regional institutions to coordinate and harmonise efforts among countries.

Even those lakes with regional authorities, such as Lake Tanganyika Authority or Lake Victoria Basin Commission, struggle to implement lake management programs due to limited access to funding mechanisms and limited to no enforcement powers.

**Left:** *Storms were a challenge, as powerful squalls came through erratically and forced me to decide between paddling through dangerous weather or fleeing to land*; **Right:** Lake Tanganyika was much more sparsely populated, with long sections of wild coastline seemingly untouched by people. On some of these remote sections, I could find wilderness beaches to spend the night. Both photos © Ross Exler

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Ross Exler

Ross Exler is an ambitious world adventurer, passionate about biodiversity and the sustainability of ecosystems in Africa. So much so, he decided to embark on a journey to become the first person to complete a solo, man-powered crossing of the African Great Lakes. His aim? To understand more about sustainability, conservation and the balance between humans and the environment.
Ross’s choice of man-powered transportation when crossing these natural wonders reflects the necessity for humans to power real environmental change in and around Lake Malawi, Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika. To read more about his journey through the Great Lakes of Africa, click here.

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Maasai Mara Specialist Photographic Safari
This is possibly the most exciting photographic safari to Kenya’s Maasai Mara that we have seen in a while. Award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen will host four lucky Africa Geographic guests for nine days / eight nights, making use of a specially-adapted vehicle and an off-road driving permit to secure epic wildlife images.

Elephant hunting: Botswana initiates month-long consultation process

Sourced from third-party site: AFP

Botswana initiated on Wednesday a month of public hearings to decide whether to lift the 2014 hunting ban, including elephant hunting. The review comes just days after the advocacy group, Elephants Without Borders, said that about 90 elephants were slaughtered in recent months for their tusks in Botswana. The government disputes the group’s claims, saying the report was exaggerated to thwart the review of the hunting ban.

The prohibition on big game sports hunting was the work of ex-president Ian Khama, a keen conservationist, to shield species decimated by hunting and habitat loss.

But lawmakers from the ruling Botswana Democratic party have been lobbying to overturn the ban, especially on elephant hunting. According to them, elephant populations have grown rapidly, with other elephants coming from neighbouring countries to seek refuge from poachers, prompting an increase in human deaths and declining incomes in farming communities.

Khama’s successor, President Mokgweetsi Masisi will meet with researchers and will then address a kgotla (traditional gathering) on the issue. The report from the hearings will be submitted to cabinet next month.

With its unfenced parks and wide-open spaces, landlocked Botswana has the largest elephant population in Africa, at over 135,000. The number of elephants on the continent has fallen by around 111,000 to 415,000 in the past decade, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Skye the lion hunting furore: Parliament wants Kruger NP agreement with private reserves revised

Parliament is concerned with issues related to the trophy hunting of Kruger National Park animals and specifically with the contractual relationship between the Kruger and neighbouring private reserves whereby Kruger animals are hunted in the Greater Kruger area, outside of the Park. The Greater Kruger area is an open system permitting Kruger animals to roam across private reserves. Some of the private reserves utilise trophy hunting to generate revenue that is ploughed into reserve running costs, which are now higher than ever due to increasing anti-poaching efforts. Parliament’s concern also includes the alleged lack of inclusion of benefits for broader society stemming from this contractual relationship between Kruger and the private reserves.

Media release by South African Parliament:

The Portfolio Committee on Environmental Affairs today (September 12) had an engagement with the Department of Environmental Affairs, South African National Parks (SANParks) and Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency Board on issues arising from our recently held Colloquium on Captive Lion Breeding, particularly hunting in the Greater Kruger National Park and the implementation of TOPS (Threatened or Protected Species) regulations.

The recent hunting of a male lion which took place in Umbabat Private Nature Reserve in Mpumalanga on the 7th of June 2018, highlighted wider issues of concern, both in terms of law governing hunting in the Kruger National Park and the contractual arrangements between the Kruger National Park and the Association of Private Nature Reserves (APNR).

The committee is extremely concerned that 10 years after the promulgation of the amended TOPS regulations in 2008, Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency is not complying with the regulations, especially those relating to the hunting of listed species in the regulations like lions, based on a flawed technical argument that the regulations are in conflict with the Provincial Act as they have not been taken through the NCOP. The committee has thus directed that the department should ensure that these regulations are processed through the NCOP before the end of the year and that the Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency should ensure compliance with these regulations by January 2019. Baiting as a form of hunting of TOPS-listed species should cease immediately.

The committee would further like to urge the Minister of Environmental Affairs to expedite the process of realising full compliance with these regulations, through the MINMEC process in order to have a uniform standard for the whole country.

The other matter which concerns the committee is the agreement between the Kruger National Park and Association of Private Nature Reserves (APNR) concluded in 1996. We believe that this agreement needs to be revised to ensure that there is sharing of benefits arising from the collapse of the fences in the western boundary of the Kruger National Park in the interest of the broader society. The committee believes that issues of transformation and beneficiation should be taken into account in this agreement. In this regard, the committee has directed SANParks to develop a concept paper on this matter for discussion with the committee in October/November 2018. The committee will hold public hearings to determine the best way forward after its engagement with SANParks.

The committee also wants discussions to take place around the current hunting protocol that allows hunting of animals in the Greater Kruger National Park as a result of an open system arising from the taking down of the fences between the Kruger National Park and Association of Private Nature Reserves. The committee wants this protocol to be interrogated to properly account for this system, for which the Kruger National Park prohibits hunting inside the park, but nonetheless, animals are hunted when they roam over to private nature reserves.

Scientists question BBC reporting over elephant poaching crisis in Botswana

Elephant carcass in Botswana — An elephant carcass found during the investigation exercise © Botswana Government (Facebook)

A group of prominent scientists have questioned the reporting by the BBC of the elephant poaching crisis in Botswana. Their conclusions, which differ significantly from those of the BBC, were derived from the same information provided by Dr Mike Chase of Elephants Without Borders.

In addition to the analytical response below, the scientists also emphasized the following two very important matters, which have been falsely reported:

1. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks is still armed with high-caliber weapons, but no longer carry automatic assault rifles;

2. The Botswana military, which is also dedicated to anti-poaching and patrols throughout the country, removes tusks from all elephant carcasses. The process to remove the ivory is the same as that used by poachers. It is thus not possible to distinguish between elephants that died from natural causes and those that were poached. To determine if an elephant has been poached, one would need to consult with the Botswana Defence Force.

The response by the scientists, as sent by them to BBC:

Response to recent BBC Report of Elephant Poaching Crisis in Botswana

In a recent BBC report, Mike Chase of Elephants without Borders reports what has been interpreted as massive poaching of elephants in Botswana, findings which arise from some preliminary aerial survey results. This “discovery” has gone viral on social media, creating digital hysteria and global concern and even some condemnation of the Government of Botswana.

In the BBC report, Chase is quoted saying, “When I compare this to figures and data from the Great Elephant Census, which I conducted in 2015, we are recording double the number of fresh poached elephants than anywhere else in Africa.” Such assertions are important in terms of elephant conservation but they also have important consequences that impact international perceptions of Botswana and its citizens. As scientists working in conservation in Botswana, we have received numerous requests for comment on the BBC report.

In order to do so, we rely on the numbers recently reported and Chase’s published paper of the 2015 surveys (Chase et al, 2016, https://peerj.com/articles/2354/ ) for comparison – comparative data referred to by Chase himself. We find it difficult to reconcile the information provided in the published paper with Chase’s recent numbers and assertions that unprecedented poaching is now occurring in Botswana.

Says Chase: “The scale of elephant poaching is by far the largest I’ve seen or read about anywhere in Africa to date.” (BBC News/world-Africa). The following is a quote directly from the publication of the 2015 Great Elephant Census (Chase et al, DOI: 10.7717/peerj.2354), “The highest fresh carcass ratios were found in Angola (10%), Cameroon (10%), the W-Arly-Pendjari (WAP) Ecosystem (3%), and Mozambique (3%), suggesting high levels of recent elephant mortality in these countries.”

By comparison, in the same table, Botswana is reported to have a fresh carcass ratio of 0.1%, equalling 130 fresh elephant carcasses identified during the 2015 survey in a population estimated to be at 130,451 at their last count. This can be compared with 340 and 288 fresh elephant carcasses reported for Angola (total pop est. 3395) and Mozambique (total pop est. 9605), respectively, during the same time period (DOI: 10.7717/peerj.2354/table-2).

The current EWB report of 87 fresh carcasses in Botswana in the 2018 survey (to date) cannot be characterised as an extreme loss of elephants compared to other range countries nor to numbers reported for Botswana in past surveys unless, for some reason, the current Survey Intensity is not comparable to previous surveys.

We appreciate the importance of survey work and population monitoring and share the concerns that elephant poaching remains a threat throughout the elephant range, including in Botswana. In conclusion, using Chase’s numbers directly, we find no scientific basis for the dramatic assertions made in the recent BBC report and question why such a report was disseminated to the media prior to completion of the current survey and data analysis.

Opinion post written by:

Kathleen Alexander, DVM PhD, Board President CARACAL, Botswana; Professor, Virginia Tech, USA

J.W. McNutt, PhD, Director, Botswana Predator Conservation Trust

Mark Vandewalle, PhD, CEO CARACAL, Botswana

Video: 500 animals journey from Kruger to Zinave

Running with wildlife is par for the course when you're part of a game capture team — Running with wildlife is par for the course when you’re part of a game capture team © Peace Parks Foundation

The past two months saw the translocation of zebra, blue wildebeest and impala from Kruger National Park in South Africa to Zinave National Park in Mozambique. The animals were donated by South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA) to Mozambique’s Ministry of Land, Environment and Rural Development (MITADER) in a collaborative effort between the governments to further develop key wildlife areas as part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, spanning Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe.

“In protecting key natural resources one can no longer have a fortress conservation mentality, and the Great Limpopo Transfrontier treaty is leading the way towards the formulation of a new conservation management plan for Kruger National Park that looks beyond our borders. If we can share our surplus wildlife with our neighbours, and in so doing eventually share our 1.9 million annual visitors into Mozambique, it will not only benefit the people of Mozambique, but contribute to a balanced and sustainable ecotourism system for the whole region”, stated Glenn Philips, Managing Executive, Kruger National Park.

Currently, the animal populations in the Kruger National Park are doing extremely well and the animal numbers of certain species are in sufficient enough numbers that it can be removed from the park without causing any adverse ecological impacts – a testimony to the successful conservation management strategies of South African National Parks (SANParks).

Blue wildebeest take their first steps into their new home, Zinave National Park © Peace Parks Foundation

On the other side of the border, the 408,000 ha Zinave National Park is still recovering from a civil war that left it almost devoid of wildlife. In 2016, Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks Foundation signed a co-management agreement with the objective to restore the park to its former glory. The agreement sets out a framework whereby the partner organisations agreed on a strategy to rehabilitate and rewild Zinave by investing in anti-poaching, infrastructure development, tourism development and community development interventions.

The end goal will be to attract tourism back to the park that will generate sufficient revenues to sustain the operations of park management – thereby conserving nature for the benefit of people and animals alike.

The crew gets going early to so that the animals can be captured before the heat of the day steps in © Peace Parks Foundation

Through the support received from DEA and SANParks, a total of 291 impala, 153 wildebeest and 85 zebra were moved from Kruger National Park into Zinave this year, with Peace Parks Foundation funding the translocation costs. The overall goal is to reintroduce 7,500 game animals in Zinave over the next five years and to date over 1,300 animals have been rewilded to the Park.

Director General for ANAC, Mr Mateus Mutemba, shared: “Mozambique would like to extend its gratitude to South Africa for its continued support in rewilding Zinave. Gorongosa National Park, in central Mozambique, is a living testimony of how nature is resilient and animal populations can thrive after being nearly depleted. In Gorongosa we saw a ten-fold increase in animal numbers within ten years, and the park is now sharing animals with other protected areas. In the same way, we strongly believe that a decade from now, Zinave will play an important role in the biodiversity economy of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier area, being a source of employment, a source of living, for the children of Zinave, and they will take pride in conserving the region’s nature. Well-protected and existing in harmony with man, wildlife populations will thrive, and soon Zinave will be able to also supply wildlife to other areas in the country. Nature has been taking care of human beings since the dawn of time. As long as we continue protecting it and integrate our people in biodiversity economy-related programs alongside conservation education we can succeed.”

The expansive capture chute, aerial view — The expansive capture chute. Translocating animals is an enormous operation that requires expert planning and execution © Peace Parks Foundation

The animals are first released into a 18,600 ha fenced sanctuary where they can acclimatise to their new environment. Each animal plays a critical role in keeping the biodiversity of a conservation area healthy and balanced. Through various translocations over the past couple of years, numerous animal herds can now be seen in the area and are doing very well.

Zebra in Zinave National Park — Zinave offers ideal grazing habitat and translocated wildlife are settling in well © Peace Parks Foundation

“Collaboration such as this is what developing peace parks is all about. It promotes cross-country collaboration, through which nations have the opportunity to work together on projects that directly impact and promote the well-being of their citizens. The rewilding of Zinave National Park is a vital next step in reconnecting traditional wildlife dispersal areas within the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, and eventually reconnecting the Zinave, Banhine and Limpopo National Parks in Mozambique with Kruger National Park in South Africa and Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe -a vast landscape spanning almost 100,000 square kilometres. Wildlife corridors are essential to enable animals to move naturally along ancient migratory routes, strengthening the significance of maintaining healthy ecosystems which is a cornerstone of transboundary conservation efforts,” says Peace Parks Foundation Chief Executive Officer, Werner Myburgh.

Watch Rewilding Africa from Peace Parks Foundation below

Our secret season safari in East Africa

As our plane touched down on a small, remote dirt strip in Selous, Tanzania, a game drive vehicle appeared as if out of nowhere – and Imani, our guide, and Mgoma, the driver, waved and beamed their broad, friendly smiles at us. Welcome to Africa! This fantastic safari for David and I, arranged by Africa Geographic, was during the so-called ‘secret season’ of June when game reserves were virtually empty of other holidaymakers and yet brimming with wildlife – perfect for a classic Tanzania safari experience. Just the way we like it.

safari — An epic sunset with hippos in Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania © Mark Paul

Stunning Selous

Soon after arrival at Lake Manze Camp, we found a pride of lions lazing about – spread out on a slab of cool concrete under a thatched roof. We parked the vehicle nearby and watched. A male got up and slowly ambled our way, but he was not interested in us. A few feet from our vehicle he stretched luxuriously up against a tree, scratching the bark with his claws, before lumbering on down the road, an open wound on his leg evidence of the harsh life of a lion in paradise.

Our tented camp overlooked Lake Manze, which only days earlier had risen and flooded the area nearby. From March through to May the rains can be heavy, and life here is not conducive to being on safari. But as the rain subsides, so do the water levels.

On our first full day on safari, we had leopards and wild dogs on our minds and shared our ambitions with Imani. He had an idea where to find wild dogs, and sure enough, after a short search, we were lucky enough to find and spend time with about 15 dogs. But no leopards. We got back to camp only to find out there had been a leopard in a tree in camp!

Late afternoon we took a peaceful boat ride on Lake Manze and enjoyed getting close to a malachite kingfisher and a pair of fish eagles. With plenty of water in the early season, wildlife is more dispersed, but hippos were everywhere. They bobbed and disappeared, then popped up again, exhaling an occasional languid yawn.

Suddenly a large hippo bull charged our boat, and it was gaining on us fast! I forgot that I had my camera and just watched in awe as this immense creature rose out of the water. I thought he would join us in the boat, but then he backed off, and we sped up – each agreeing to part ways peacefully.

My family often asks me, “Aren’t you afraid to be in Africa?” and my response is always no. But for a brief moment, that hippo had me really scared. People say that hippos are the most dangerous animal in Africa, and I now believe them!

As a photographer, you always want to be prepared for moments like this because you don’t usually get a second chance. Well, I blew it on that occasion and did not get a single picture of the hippo charging us. But a few minutes later, I got a second chance. This time I swung around, put my single focus point on the charging hippo and clicked away, capturing the entire charge. Success!

At dinner that night, our camp host Shaun explained that hippos can sink – and run fast on the bottom – because of the high bone density in their legs. Amazing.

The sun was setting, and the sky and water were turning orange. Hippos were moving towards the reflection: a perfect picture and a gorgeous end to our first day on safari in Selous.

Remote Ruaha

Our second stop was Ruaha National Park – the largest national park in Tanzania – in the remote and seldom-visited southwest of this vast country. As we flew in, the Ruaha River sparkled in the afternoon sun, and shades of green dominated the landscape.

David and I had told team Africa Geographic that we wanted to be in the thick of it. He and I had met while taking a class in Kenya five years earlier and were of the same mind – we were in Africa to see wildlife! So Mdonya Old River Camp was perfect for us, and we were up bright and early at 6 am with coffee and out on a game drive by 6:30 – giving us the best possible chance for wildlife sightings and the best photographic lighting.

In our open vehicle, the cool morning breeze brought tears to my eyes as I tried to stay warm under a blanket. I held my camera in anticipation, and the possibilities of a new day excited me.

Kahimba, our guide, had a hunch where he could find lions. Johnny, the young apprentice, spotted them first: three males and one female. Two males soon left, and we followed the remaining pair for a while. Kahimba thought she might have small cubs hiding someplace. The soft morning light was beautiful as we watched the pair disappear into the bush. A great start to the day!

Back on the road, we found a large troop of baboons, backlit and all aglow. After a few shots we drove on, taking in the sounds and smells, smiles etched on our faces, feeling like we had Ruaha all to ourselves.

Suddenly, something large jumped out in front of us! We couldn’t make it out at first with the sun shining directly into our eyes.
“Leopard,” I heard someone say.

In my excitement, I immediately tried taking photos while the vehicle was still moving, but soon gave up and put my camera down. Fortunately, the cat went up a tree, and we were able to pull over and observe.

Kahimba said he knew this cat – he was about a year and a half old and the son of Fundi. You could see that this young leopard was intent on something and ignored us completely, gazing out into the bush for a while before finally relaxing and making eye contact with us. Eventually, he hung all four legs over a large branch and settled in for a nap. We decided to leave him alone in peace.

Leopards and lions in the first hour; that is why you get up early when you’re on safari in Africa!

Eventually, we stopped for breakfast. Kahimba and Johnny laid a cloth over the hood and put out an excellent assortment of foods for us to choose from.
Later in the day, we stopped, and Kahimba began making a whistling noise. He pointed to a bush, but I could not see anything. With some guidance, I spotted a diminutive pearl-spotted owlet, wide-eyed and looking our way. Kahimba called again, and it flew towards us – in fact, it was flying directly at my head, and it felt like I would have been impaled had I not ducked!

**Left**: *Red-billed hornbill*; **Right:** *A territorial pearl-spotted owlet flew straight at us after our guide mimicked its call*. All photos © Mark Paul

Around every turn, we scared up doves, guineafowl, francolins, hornbills, and many other birds. We stopped to scan for wildlife on the ledges and outcroppings, often seeing lizards and hyrax (rock rabbits).

As the sun went down, we drove through pockets of cool air, flushing nightjars from the dirt road. A pair of black-backed jackals appeared in front of us – my grainy, low-light photo later revealed that the prize possession one of them had in its mouth was a 6-8″ length of vertebrae.

The day had been long and rewarding.

Ostriches make their way past a baobab tree in Ruaha © Mark Paul

Cheetahs

The landscape in this part of Ruaha is incredibly diverse. Significant elevational relief provides views of shrubby grasslands, open woodlands and baobab trees scattered in all directions. On day two, we were hoping to see cheetahs, but we were not optimistic. The grass was high in the early season, making it difficult to spot this cat.

Our first sighting of the day was of a black-shouldered kite mobbing a martial eagle. A little later on, we watched two large tuskers sparring in the Ruaha River.

It was during lunch when Kahimba got a call: Another vehicle had found four cheetahs. Lunch was over!

We arrived to see four cheetahs – two-year-old siblings – hunting impala. We sat quietly and watched as they surrounded their prey and set up an ambush. I could see one of the cats hidden behind a shrub. An impala moved closer. The cat waited…

A cheetah with its eyes locked on an impala © Mark Paul

With a sudden burst of breathtaking speed, the cheetah attacked. There was a brief chase; then, the cheetah abruptly pulled up. It had been too impatient, and the hunt was over. Kahimba said they showed their inexperience by not waiting for the impala to get closer.

Every day brought something new and exciting, as did every night because when you sleep in the bush, the sounds of wildlife surround your tent. Our time in Tanzania had been amazing, but David was now off to enjoy the World Cup Soccer in Russia, and I still had one more safari destination…

Magical Maasai Mara

Whereas in the rolling terrain of Ruaha you could often not see over the next hill or beyond the next bend in the road, the Maasai Mara in Kenya offered views to the horizon from almost everywhere – and at this time of year, it was cheaper than being in Tanzania’s Serengeti. That level of advice is what makes a safari with Africa Geographic so rewarding.

We were out on a game drive at 6:30 am on my first full day at Sentinel Mara Camp – just Jackson (my driver) and I. We enjoyed a fantastic sunrise, accompanied by silhouetted elephants on a dew-covered savannah, lit up in a red-orange glow. Golden hour!

Elephant at sunrise in the Maasai Mara — Elephants at sunrise in the Maasai Mara © Mark Paul

Further along, we found a male lion sitting majestically, looking out over his kingdom, with grassland as far as you could see in the background. Jackson told me that soon the wildebeest would arrive and darken the landscape – prime time for a migration season safari.

I imagine the scene to be something like the Great Plains in North America before a herd of buffalo moved through. The savannah was lush; the table was set for the zebra and wildebeest. But there was still food for predators – impala and Thompson’s gazelle were plentiful – so finding big cats was not difficult.

We headed towards a river where the vegetation favoured leopards. Just as we were approaching the area, Jackson got the call that a leopard mom with two cubs had been spotted. When we arrived, the mom was up in a tree, but soon came down, and we saw her walking with one of her young.

Jackson followed the stream, anticipating beautifully where they would come out. We watched them cross the river and disappear into a thicket. According to Jackson, the mother had brought her cub to feast on a Thompson’s gazelle she had dragged up a tree.

Leopard mother and cub by a river in the Maasai Mara — A great sighting of a leopard mom and cub crossing the river © Mark Paul

That afternoon brought a cheetah mother with a cub. From a distance, we could see the mom on her back and the cub jumping on her. They played for quite a while before disappearing under some bushes.

This is the animal I most wanted to see on my third trip to Africa, and now I had had two amazing encounters.

**Clockwise from left**: 1) *A grey-crowned crane*; 2) *Ostriches in the expansive plains of the Maasai Mara*; 3) *Hippo basking in the sun in the Mara River*. All photos © Mark Paul

We were back at camp by late morning for lunch and would go out again around 4 pm when the day had cooled off. Minnie was waiting to greet us, and the staff offered cool towels and refreshing juice. Sentinel Camp made this country boy feel like royalty.

The meals were excellent at all of the camps, but Sentinel food – “international cuisine” as Minnie put it – was especially amazing. The red snapper was just one of many highlights for me.

We shared stories at lunch with the other guests. One couple had seen a serval – we were all jealous. Not to be outdone, the next morning I had a close up look at an African wildcat. Within less than 24 hours, all the cats you could have seen in this part of Kenya had been spotted close to Sentinel Camp.

Leaving was tough. In a short period, the Sentinel staff had made this feel like home, and I admired their eco-efforts: no plastic bottles (they supplied a glass water bottle for everyone); water was heated exclusively by solar, and there was no plumbing – you received just the amount of water you needed when you needed it.

At Sentinel Camp you get the best of both worlds: the feeling of wilderness, sitting next to the Mara River watching hippos; but with a cool drink as a pleasant reminder that you are safe and in good hands.

An elephant herd making their way over the plains of the Maasai Mara © Mark Paul

Where to stay

LAKE MANZE TENTED CAMP
Lake Manze Tented Camp is situated deep inside the vast Selous Game Reserve in southern Tanzania, on the banks of Lake Manze. The authentic tented camp shelters under huge doum palms and is perfectly positioned to enjoy the daily ritual of elephants trampling the old, well-worn path that runs in front of the camp. The camp has 12 Meru style walk-in tents with stunning views across the lake, each with twin or double beds, flush toilet, outdoor shower and private veranda. There is a large thatched communal area above a sand floor, with armchairs and sofas for lounging with a drink to watch the animals come and go.

MDONYA OLD RIVER CAMP
Mdonya Old River Camp is situated deep inside the remote Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania. This rustic, authentic tented camp languishes in the shade of gigantic sycamore fig and winter thorn trees, on the winding banks of the scenic Mdonya sand river. The camp has 12 traditional safari tents spaced out along the river, each comfortably furnished and featuring verandahs, en-suite bathrooms with dressing room, open-roofed solar-heated shower and separate flush toilets. The large verandahs are ideal for relaxing and viewing the passing wildlife.

SENTINEL MARA CAMP
Sentinel Mara Camp is a non-permanent tented safari camp set up each season in a forest along the banks of the Mara River in one of the prime areas of the renowned Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. Accommodation consists of seven large en-suite tents, sheltering under large trees, each with excellent views of the Mara River. Each tent is tastefully furnished with campaign furniture to capture the romance and adventure of a bygone era.

Have a look at the bucket-list safaris in Tanzania and Kenya:

• Serengeti great migration safari (4 days)
• Maasai Mara Secret Season (6 days)
• Maasai Mara Migration Season Safari (7 days)
• Family safari in the Maasai Mara (6 days)
• Walking with Giants in Tsavo (13 days)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Mark Paul

Mark Paul is a former high school biology and environmental science teacher who loves to travel and share his passion for the outdoors with others. When he is not immersed in nature, he loves to play acoustic guitar and electric bass, bike, hike and swim. Mark is now a freelance photographer, writer and videographer living in Starksboro, VT, USA with his wife and three dogs.

Join our Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari

This is possibly the most exciting Maasai Mara photographic safari that we have seen in a while. Award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen will host four lucky Africa Geographic guests for nine days / eight nights, making use of a specially-adapted vehicle to secure epic wildlife images.
The Maasai Mara is renowned for the large numbers of resident big cats and, of course, for the Great Wildebeest Migration. A little-known secret about the Mara is that the best time to see and photograph the big cats is during the so-called ‘Secret Season’ when you get to encounter the cats without the crowds of tourists that follow the migration. Our July 2019 safari with Arnfinn is timed to avoid the crowds that arrive a month later and to give you the best chance of taking epic photos.
Arnfinn will ensure that you get up close and personal with Mara’s fantastic wildlife, and find those unique angles and light conditions that make the difference between good photos and truly amazing photos.
Before you read the details of this superb safari here, scroll down to see some incredible photos taken by Arnfinn in the Maasai Mara.

Cheetah sitting in the long grass of the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/640 sec at f/5.6. ISO 2000

“The open grassland savannah of the Maasai Mara suits cheetahs, making this one of the best places to find and photograph these elegant cats. Composition is important, and sometimes open landscapes without distractions are the best way to emphasise the essence of the subject.”

Two lions mating in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/125 sec at f/8. ISO 16,000

“These mating lions were photographed using a remote-controlled buggy with wifi control for the camera. Before dispatching the buggy, we always make sure that it will not intrude or scare the lions. We often make use of early morning and late night light, which we enhance with special torches that add a soft and warm dimension – resulting in images that are very different to those taken in broad daylight.”

Serval cat in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/1600 sec at f/5. ISO 2500

“Some view the serval as our most elegant cat, and a sighting is never guaranteed. This exquisite portrait was taken in fading light, again from the low angle of the specially-adapted game drive vehicle. Our drivers/guides are extremely skilled regarding the positioning of the vehicle, and we often position ourselves and wait for shy species like this to approach us – making for relaxed subjects and natural images.”

Maasai child against sunset in Maasai Mara — Moody skies and fading light create the backdrop for this exquisite portrait of a Maasai child © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/800 sec at f/5.6. ISO 320

“The camp we stay at is located near Oltepesi Village, which is a genuine Maasai village. This close proximity to the village provides a unique opportunity to learn about the Maasai way of living, adding an authentic cultural experience to the journey. The villagers are our partners, and we have permission to photograph and film without asking for permission. Also, guests can choose to spend a night in a traditional Maasai house.”

Ostrich carcass with lion in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/400 sec at f/11. ISO 400

“Positioning a remote-controlled camera near a carcass will often produce excellent results for the patient photographer. Patiently staking out a kill site gives us time to plan photographs and understand the ebb and flow of life and death on the plains.”

Leopard up close in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/500 sec at f/4.5. ISO 4500

“Some photographers want their subjects to walk into full view; others capture each moment for what it is. This resting leopard provided the ideal opportunity to exploit the gaps in the vegetation to take close-ups and emphasise the animal’s habitat.”

Topi sparring in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 400/2.8E, 1/500 at f/3.2. ISO 450

“This image of two topi sparring against a bruised and moody early morning sky was taken on foot, which we do as often as possible to achieve freedom of movement.”

Gazelle newborn about to be caught by a cheetah in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/1250 at f/4. ISO 360

“Moments such as this cheetah hunting a newborn Thomson’s gazelle are rarely captured from this perspective. The young cheetahs played with the calf for almost 45 minutes before finishing it off. We were caught in the middle of the drama, and although we felt sorry for the victim, we also felt privileged to have witnessed this life and death struggle.”

Kirk's dik-dik in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/250 at f/4. ISO 6,400

“The tiny Kirk’s dik-dik is a common resident of the Maasai Mara. Understanding the habits of animals can be crucial to taking great photos. The shy dik-dik will usually run away from vehicles, but in this case, it had sensed a leopard and was standing still to avoid detection. We used the opportunity to observe and take fantastic photos of this reclusive species.”

Young lion approaching camera in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/160 sec at f/11. ISO 2,500

“Wide-angle photography of lions with a specially built remote-controlled buggy with wifi control for the camera provides a different perspective. One has to be sensitive to the lion’s behaviour and make sure not to intrude or scare them.”

African buffalo covered in mud in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/2000 at f/5.6. ISO 3,600

“Craggy buffalo males make for excellent photographic subjects, especially when covered in mud. This photograph was taken in harsh light, and zooming in allowed me to avoid the bright background, and I edited out the harsh glare.”

Cheetah in the rain in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/250 sec at f/5. ISO 1000

“Good photographers make use of ‘bad’ weather to capture intimate moments, often set against dramatic skies and the movement of driving rain. When shooting in the rain, you should choose a longer shutter speed than usual, depending on how hard the rain is. Use of a wide aperture provides the blurred foreground and background and enhances the sense of drama.”

Elephants in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 VRII @ 95mm, 1/500 sec at f/5.6. ISO 1,400

“The expansive Maasai Mara is the perfect canvas for herds of elephants set against dramatic, threatening skies. Photographing in silhouette emphasises the animals’ characteristics, and we actively seek out opportunities such as this during the early morning and late evening light.”

Lioness approaching camera in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/250 sec at f/11. ISO 3,200

“Lions are curious creatures, and will often approach strange-looking objects to investigate. A low perspective is the alpha and omega, for both telephoto and wide-angle photography. Our safari vehicle is specially designed for low-angle photography.”

Cheetah cub and mom in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/1250 sec at f/5.6. ISO 1,000

“This tender moment between a cheetah mother and her kitten is cropped tightly to enhance the feeling of intimacy. Catching interactions like this takes great patience, with moments like this often occurring unexpectedly and without warning. Having an off-road permit is crucial in that it gives us the freedom to spend time with the subject without the disturbance of other vehicles.”

Male lion in the Maasai Mara at sunset — A relaxed lion surveys his kingdom © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/10 sec at f/8. ISO 12,800

“The ground-level perspective and subtle lighting against a moody backdrop enhance the sense of drama in this photo of a relaxed lion. The use of suitably angled torch light fills in the dark spots and adds a degree of drama.”

Inside a specially-adapted photographic safari vehicle — © Arnfinn Johansen

Arnfinn’s game drive vehicle is custom-built for photographers. The vehicle is spacious, with eight seats for four guests – allowing you to move around easily. The sides of the vehicle have no window glass, and low frames – for better panning and action photography. The roof is removable, allowing you to photograph from a high perspective.
It is also possible to remove one row of seats, to permit the lowest possible shooting angle. The vehicle has canvas instead of a back door, for photography at animal eye level. There are 230-volt power outlets for charging of batteries. The vehicle design also makes for easy use of tripods, monopods and bean bags. Beans bags of various sizes are provided.

Photographer taking photos from a specially-adapted photographic safari vehicle — © Bjørn H. Stuedal

A guest demonstrates how Arnfinn’s specially-adapted game drive vehicle, with a safe ground-level vantage point, delivers angles and perspectives for epic photos and wonderfully intimate wildlife encounters.

Inside a tent in the Maasai Mara with Maasai woman — © Arnfinn Johansen

Your accommodation is in large canvas safari tents, with en-suite bathroom facilities (including shower and flush toilet) and plenty of room to organise your camera equipment for each day’s adventure.

Tent accommodation in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen

Your basecamp is on the outskirts of a Maasai village bordering the Maasai Mara, with daily game drives in the reserve. This unique positioning offers a unique and authentic insight (and excellent photographic opportunities) into the traditional lives of these pastoral herdsmen. This unique safari provides genuine empowerment to local people who live amongst the Maasai Mara wildlife, there being no fences to restrict the movement of wildlife.

Celebrating Africa’s Landscapes

Landscape photography is regarded as the art of capturing an image of nature and the outdoors in a way that allows the viewer to be absorbed into the scene and witness the incredible beauty for themselves. It’s about bridging that connection between the viewer, the photographer, and the landscape, allowing the chance for the viewer to feel those same emotions that the photographer felt when taking the photo. From sparse deserts to lush, green deltas, landscape photography highlights the best nature has to offer, and today we share some of those incredible scenes with you to admire and appreciate.
In this gallery, Celebrating Africa’s Landscapes, we are taking a look at some incredible scenes from around Africa, through the lens of some incredibly talented photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions. Please take your time and enjoy this stunning gallery with us.

? Aerial view of Sossusvlei in Namibia © Panos Laskarakis (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

“An aerial view above Sossusvlei just before sunset presents the perfect specimen of Namibia’s unspoilt desert beauty. Probably one of the most spectacular places in Namibia, the way the sunset plays on the ancient dunes transforms them into a stunning red and orange masterpiece.” ~ Panos Laskarakis

? Sunset at Epupa Falls, Namibia © Charlie Lynam (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“In Africa, the most famous waterfalls are Victoria Falls, where Dr David Livingstone was quoted as saying ‘they are so beautiful angels must have flown here’. I can only say that the angels must have flown via Epupa! I fumbled around in the dark with a head torch trying to find safe ground to place my tripod, the roar of the Falls in the background. There were a few hairy moments as I slipped and skidded on the wet rocks to take up my position, but it was well worth the effort; I think it added something to the drama of the moment!” ~ Charlie Lynam

? Aerial view of the Okavango Delta, Botswana © Mark Timmermans (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

? The ‘Madonna and her Worshippers’ rock formation in the Drakensberg, South Africa © Carl Smorenburg (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“The Madonna and her Worshippers is a massive outcrop in the northern Drakensberg, South Africa. It is a long two-day hike up Fangs pass to get there. The epic light, followed by a huge storm, was worth the suffering though.” ~ Carl Smorenburg

? “Rainforest in the mist” in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“We were on the way to Lake Bunyonyi, having left Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in the early morning. Along the way, we stopped at the edge of the forest, and this incredible view presented itself of the misty mountains of Uganda.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

? The road to Spitzkoppe in Namibia © Jaco Beukman (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

? Panoramic of Cape Town, South Africa © Denis Roschlau (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“My wife, Anne, and I hiked up Lions Head before sunrise to get this photograph of Table Mountain, complete with the tablecloth. To the left lies Cape Town city bowl, the harbour and Signal Hill. On the right is Bakoven, Camps Bay and Clifton, and of course that fantastic rainbow. Capturing such a photograph made it worth getting up early.” ~ Denis Roschlau

? Storm approaching in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Rory Ouwerkerk (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

? Madagascar’s ‘Avenue of the Baobabs’ in western Madagascar © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“I just love it when a place exceeds my expectations once I actually experience it in person, even though I have looked at thousands of images before. The Allée des Baobabs in Madagascar will forever stand out as one of those places.” ~ Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

? Aerial view of the Jao Concession in north-western Okavango Delta, Botswana © Mike McCaffrey (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

? The Epupa Falls, Kunene River, Namibia © Randal Hinz (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

? Lake Bunyonyi surrounded by green-terraced hills and scattered with 29 islands © Helen Suk (Photographer of the Year 2016 entrant)

? The White Desert in Al Farafrah, Egypt © Sepp Friedhuber (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“The White Desert in Egypt is a small but spectacular part of the eastern Sahara. The best time to take photographs in the desert is in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun creates magnificent effects with shadows and light.” ~ Sepp Friedhuber

? Sunrise on one of the dunes in NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia © Teresa Nel (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Elephant poaching: Botswana gov provides context, questions irresponsible reporting

Sourced from third-party site: Botswana Government (Facebook)

Stories are doing the rounds about the discovery of at least 87 elephant carcasses in Botswana, sparking an international outcry over what is being called the largest scale of elephant poaching to date.

The following is a letter from the Botswana government in response to the elephant poaching statistics:

The Government of Botswana has noted with concern unsubstantiated and sensational media reports on elephant poaching statistics in Botswana carried by some local and international media attributed to Elephants Without Borders (EWB), a non-governmental organisation contracted by the Botswana Government to carry out the dry season aerial survey of elephants and wildlife in northern Botswana covering Chobe, Okavango, Ngamiland and North Central District. The stories allege that about 90 elephants have been indiscriminately killed recently.

To this end, the Government of Botswana wishes to inform members of the public and other key stakeholders that these statistics are false and misleading. At no point in the last months or recently were 87 or 90 elephants killed in one incident in any place in Botswana.

The Government of Botswana wishes to further inform that the survey conducted by EWB started on 5th July 2018 and is expected to end by 30th September 2018.

During the conduct of the survey from 5th July up to 1st August 2018, EWB reported that they had come across 53 elephant carcasses which were incidents that had already been cumulatively reported officially to the Government as early as July and August of this year.

Of the aforementioned 53 reported, a verification mission between July and August established that the majority were not poached but rather died from natural causes and retaliatory killings as a result of human and wildlife conflicts.

The Government of Botswana wishes to state that it is unfortunate that some media reports attribute the rise in elephant poaching primarily to the withdrawal of weapons from the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) anti-poaching unit. The fact of the matter is that the withdrawal of such weapons from DWNP, did not in any way affect the effectiveness and operations of the anti-poaching units.

It should be noted that the Government of Botswana has from the 1980s directed all security agencies to commit resources towards anti-poaching, a practice that continues to this date. Therefore the withdrawal of weapons from DWNP has not created any vacuum in anti-poaching operations as the anti-poaching unit in DWNP continues to play a pivotal role in combating wildlife crime through other strategic interventions.

Furthermore the public is informed that withdrawing weapons from DWNP is in line with the existing legislation which does not allow the Department of Wildlife and National Parks to own such weapons. This action was taken whilst corrective measures are to be undertaken.

In conclusion, the Government of Botswana wishes to condemn in the strongest terms possible attempts by individuals or groups who give a false impression that they love Botswana wildlife more than citizens of Botswana. Government wishes to reiterate the fact that wildlife remains a national heritage and our citizens will protect it at all costs.

Thank you.

Thato Y. Raphaka
PERMANENT SECRETARY

Elephant bones in Botswana, with rangers — Elephant bones found during the investigation © Botswana Government (Facebook)

Namibian ‘problem’ lion dies during relocation, remaining five are safe in a private reserve

Desert-adapted lion in Namibia — Nkosi – XPL 110 – died during translocation from the Ugab River in mid-August 2018 © Inki Mandt

The attempted relocation of six Namibian desert-adapted lions (3 adults and 3 cubs) from the Daures area (Erongo region) to Skeleton Coast Nation has failed, and the subsequent relocation of the same lions to a private game reserve in the Khomas Region was dogged in controversy as one lion died in the process.

According to Namibia’s Ministry of the Environment & Tourism (MET), the six lions were twice relocated to Skeleton Coast after they caused “problems” (communities were reporting ongoing livestock losses) in their home range in the Erongo region, and on both occasions, the lions returned to their home ranges. MET subsequently decided to relocate the lions to the 9,500 hectare N/a’an ku sê wildlife sanctuary where they “will not cause any problems”.

The male lion, Nkosi – XPL 110, died during this relocation, reportedly of “capture stress”. The adult lions had previously been collared for a monitoring and early warning system, as part of MET’s attempts to deal with ongoing human-lion conflict in the area.

MET advised that the relocated lions would remain the property of MET, and will be relocated to a national park once MET is “satisfied with their behaviour”.

In a Facebook discussion, Izak Smit of Desert Lions Human Relations Aid (DeLRHA) questioned the death of a male lion in the prime of his life. He also questioned why MET would tranquillise and move a lactating female with three cubs and a heavily pregnant female lion.

Smit also commented that “The male and females are of outstanding genetic material and their absence will leave the pride with 5 sub-adults of about 2.7 and 3 years old, two females and three males whom are all closely related (siblings or cousins). This could mean third generation in-breeding as there is no known record of “outside” males, i.e. new blood.”

In their statement, MET suggested that the lions were being fed by people in the vicinity of White Lady Lodge in the Daures area of Erongo, hence their returning to the area after two unsuccessful relocations. This claim was rejected by Smit, who countered that, to the best of his knowledge, the lions were targeting hobbled donkeys and sheep kept in a flimsy kraal near the lodge. In reply to questions on Facebook, he suggested that there is no evidence of “blatant feeding” of lions in order to lure them for viewing by tourists, and asked why no charges had been filed if this was the case.

Smit did concede that White Lady Lodge does have a history of keeping livestock in poorly constructed kraals, and of losing a large number of livestock to lions.

Climbing Kili

Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro, at 5,895m high, is Africa’s tallest mountain, the world’s highest free-standing peak, and one of the famed ‘Seven Summits’.

Climbing Kilimanjaro is classified as an extreme altitude mountain trek, but with proper preparation, climbing ‘Kili’ can be an achievable goal and a life-changing experience.

Rising from the plains of Tanzania, Kilimanjaro gives climbers a taste of a wide variety of vegetation zones; starting with tropical forest, then heath and moorland, which give way to a highland lava desert, before ultimately reaching the summit zone – a moonscape of rock, ice and scree.

Rock cairns dwarfed by Mount Kilimanjaro in the distance © Shelley Hyne — Rock cairns dwarfed by Mount Kilimanjaro © Shelley Hyne

Climbing Kilimanjaro is not ‘a walk in the park’, and it presents considerable physical challenges. The oxygen level at the summit is only 50% of that at sea level, so altitude sickness is an ever-present threat. The temperature at the base averages 35°C, while at the summit it can plummet to minus 25ºC with a stiff wind.

The summit is ice-capped, with five glaciers carrying snow down the mountain’s flanks. Roughly 60-70% of climbers attempting Kilimanjaro will reach the top. If you want to be one of those successful climbers, then there are several factors to take into consideration.

Summit of Mount Kilimanjaro with climbers — Climbers celebrate at the summit © Shelley Hyne

THE ROUTES

There are seven established routes up Kilimanjaro, and these routes not only vary in length, cost and scenery but also in difficulty and success rates. There is an eighth route, Mweka, used for descents only.

Selecting a Kilimanjaro climb route is one of the most important decisions you have to make. There is no single ‘best route’ up the mountain, and the best route for you depends on several factors, including the availability of time and money, previous experience, fitness level and the time of year.

THE MARANGU ROUTE
Marangu is mistakenly thought of as an easy route with a short ascent but is a more serious and difficult climb as there is less time to acclimatise. Due to the negative repercussions on some climbers regarding acclimatisation, there is a lower success rate – with roughly 30% of climbers reaching the summit.

THE MACHAME ROUTE
This is the most popular and crowded climbing route. Machame is considered the best route of all, albeit slightly tougher than the Marangu route. It is very scenic, with proper acclimatisation – but be prepared for crowds (especially on summit night). Approximately 60% of climbers reach the summit.

THE RONGAI ROUTE
With arguably the best acclimatisation, this is probably the ‘easiest’ route. It is away from the crowds, and climbers make their way through true wilderness areas before joining the Marangu route at Kibo hut camp. This route has an excellent success rate, with roughly 70% of climbers reaching the summit.

**Caption:** *Kilimanjaro provides climbers with a wide variety of vegetation zones, from lush, tropical forest and moorland, to a windswept, moonscape alpine desert.* Photos by © Shelley Hyne, Mariska Nell and Sarah Kingdom

THE SHIRA ROUTE
This route takes you into some serious altitude (3,500 metres) from day 1, which can hurt if you live at sea level and haven’t had the time to acclimatise. There is generally low traffic on this route before it merges with the Machame route at Baranco.

THE LEMOSHO ROUTE
Probably the most beautiful route, but also the most expensive. Like the Shira route, this one also merges with the Machame route, so everything said about that route remains relevant here. It is a longer route, allowing time for proper acclimatisation, and therefore the success rate is also reasonable. The best option for those who want a wilderness experience, but for whom cost is not the primary consideration.

THE UMBWE ROUTE
The most difficult and demanding route on Kilimanjaro and the most spectacular. It is not a very technical route but is very direct, very steep, very tough and in parts, very exposed. Again, this route joins the Machame route. Due to the level of difficulty, the success rate is low – so don’t consider it unless you have experienced climbing mountains.

THE NORTHERN CIRCUIT
This is the newest route and also the longest. It is good for acclimatisation, and you’ll find very few climbers here. It is the only route to traverse all of the northern slopes on a circumnavigation of the mountain. Due to how long it takes to climb, and how it is easier to acclimatise properly, the summit success rate is quite high.

Aside from choosing your route up Kilimanjaro, there are several other factors to think about as you prepare for this epic adventure – read on to find out more.

Mount Kilimanjaro with climber in foreground — A lone climber and the majestic Kilimanjaro © Shelley Hyne

TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE

The highland areas of East Africa have a pleasant, temperate climate throughout the year, with a long rainy season from mid-March to June (an ideal safari month), and a second, shorter rainy period from October to late December. The maximum daytime temperature you can expect to encounter at the base of Kilimanjaro is around 28ºC, dropping to 15ºC at night. At 3,000m (10,000ft), daytime temperatures are 15ºC.

Above 4,000m (13,000ft), nighttime temperatures will fall below freezing, and it will be no more than 10ºC during the day (although in the heat of the sun it will feel warmer than this). Summit night will be your coldest, and you can expect temperatures to drop to -25ºC, with cold winds.

Summit night
Summit night is when climbers make the final ascent to Uhuru Point (5,895m). Usually, climbers are woken up at 10 pm and start the gruelling, steep climb (which can take 6 to 8 hours) to reach the top by sunrise. During this time climbers are exposed to potentially sub-zero temperatures and strong winds while hiking slowly.

Northern Ice Field on Kilimanjaro, glacier — The Northern Ice Field is near the summit of Kilimanjaro, on the west slope of the peak © Shelley Hyne

WHAT TO CARRY

Keep it light! What you are expected to carry during the day on the trail is a day pack with all the things that you may require throughout the day (such as your camera, extra batteries, water bottle, packed lunch, snacks, waterproofs, toilet paper, and a fleece or a jumper).

The rest of your trekking gear should be packed in a large, tough duffle bag. It will be carried by your porters (not the best place for a fragile bag!). The packed weight of your duffle bag while on the mountain should be no more than 15kg. You should be provided with a suggested packing list by your trekking company.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *Camping in the moorlands*; 2) *The temperature on summit night can drop to -25 deg C with cold winds*; 3) *The gear you take is important to protect you from the harsh, cold environment – this includes a good pair of hiking boots*; 4) *A fleece top with waterproof jacket will help keep the cold out at the higher elevations*. All photos © Sarah Kingdom

Footwear
A good pair of waterproof, broken-in boots are essential. Few things will make you more miserable during the trek than blisters, and these are certain to occur if your boots are not broken in. If buying new boots, buy them as soon as you can and wear them as much as possible before the trek.

Clothes
All that is usually needed during the day is a T-shirt and trousers. However, warm clothes will come into play in the mornings and evenings when the temperatures drop, and you aren’t doing much physically. Here is a brief list of what you should include in your packing list:

• A good base layer with a T-shirt on top will keep you warm and dry.
• Mid-layers provide insulation (e.g. a mid-weight fleece top), and if you really feel the cold, then substitute the fleece layer with a down jacket.
• The outer layer is the final layer between you and the elements and must be capable of keeping out the wind, rain, sleet and snow. Any good waterproof/windproof jacket should do the job.
• Legwear in the form of thermal long johns is invaluable for summit night.
• Gloves (thin and thick).
• A good sun hat is essential. Also, a beanie (woollen hat) for warmth, a balaclava for face coverage, and a headlamp.
• Sunglasses which offer 100% UV protection are necessary to combat strong sunlight and snow reflection.

Sleeping bag
A good quality sleeping bag ensures a good night’s sleep (-15 degrees is recommended). Do not compromise on your sleeping bag, as carrying a light one will give you many sleepless nights.

**Left:** *Hikers getting ready to start the next leg of the climb*; **Right:** *The Askari Project team who climbed Kilimanjaro in 2017 for Tsavo’s elephants.* Both photos © Sarah Kingdom

Final notes

Crew
You should expect your group to be led by an experienced mountain guide, with the help of a Tanzanian local guide who has considerable experience leading climbs on Kilimanjaro. Depending on size, each group would typically have a main guide, a local lead guide, four assistant guides, one cook, a few assistant cooks and three porters per person.

Food
Food on the mountain is usually a mix of local and European dishes, all cooked by the team cook. The emphasis is on a high carbohydrate and easily digestible and largely vegetarian diet, especially at high altitude.

Altitude considerations
The principal difficulty for anyone aspiring to climb Kilimanjaro is the mountain’s considerable height, rising abruptly from the plains. In high mountain ranges, acclimatisation is usually achieved by approaching the ultimate objective by crossing a series of ridges, gaining height gradually. This is not possible on free-standing peaks like Kilimanjaro.

The process of acclimatisation does take time, and the most important rule is to gain height slowly. If you have suffered serious problems at altitude before, you should seek the advice of your doctor or a specialist. I strongly recommended the medication Diamox as I found it helps to acclimatise (not suitable for people allergic to sulphur drugs), though please make sure first to consult your local practitioner when it comes to choosing the right medication.

Training for the climb
On some days you will only be walking for 3 to 5 hours, while on the longest day, to the summit of Kilimanjaro, you can expect to have a 12-15 hour day. As the duration of the climb is relatively short, you need to be in good shape right from the start. Training for at least two months before the climb is pretty essential. People with poor fitness levels will find the trip extremely tough, even impossible.

Mount Kilimanjaro with climbers — The long road to Kili © Shelley Hyne

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, SARAH KINGDOM

Travel writer, mountain guide and mother, Sarah Kingdom was born and brought up in Sydney, Australia. Coming to Africa at 21, she fell in love with the continent and stayed. Sarah guides on Kilimanjaro several times a year and has lost count of how many times she has stood on the roof of Africa. She has climbed and guided throughout the Himalayas and now spends most of her time visiting remote places in Africa. When she is not travelling, she runs a cattle ranch in Zambia with her husband.

Oral vaccination protects Ethiopian wolves – Africa’s most endangered carnivore

Ethiopian wolf eating bait laced with a vaccine — An Ethiopian wolf takes bait containing the rabies vaccine © Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Press release by Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Over the past month, a team from the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme (EWCP) implemented the first oral vaccination campaign to pre-empt outbreaks of rabies among Ethiopian wolves, the world’s most endangered canid, in their stronghold in the Bale Mountains of southern Ethiopia.

This is a turning point in the plight to save Ethiopian wolves from extinction, following a decade of intensive research, field trials and awareness work, led by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit and funding from the Born Free Foundation among others. Working alongside the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority, regular oral vaccination campaigns will now expand to all six extant wolf populations to enhance their chance of survival.

There are fewer than 500 Ethiopian wolves in the world, all in the wild and highly exposed to infectious diseases transmitted by domestic dogs.

“Thirty years ago I witnessed an outbreak of rabies which killed the majority of the wolves I had followed closely for my doctoral studies,” said Prof Claudio Sillero, EWCP Director and Founder. “We have learnt much about these wolves and their Afroalpine homes since. By the time we detect rabies in a wolf population, already many animals are fatally infected and doomed. We now know that pre-emptive vaccination is necessary to save many wolves from a horrible death and to keep small and isolated populations outside the vortex of extinction. I whole-heartily celebrate the team’s achievement”.

Long-term programmes and targeted research are the cornerstones of biological conservation, as success often relays on an intimate knowledge of the workings of populations, the behaviour of individuals and the social, political and economic context. With a generous donation from Virbac of 3,000 SAG2 oral vaccines, EWCP has launched a vaccination strategy, guided by strong empirical information and predictive modelling, and a key component of the National Action Plan for the conservation of the species.

The Ethiopian wolf is the most threatened canid in the world and the only wolf species to be found in Africa © Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Muktar Abute, the EWCP vet team leader, described the vaccination plan : “Vaccine contained within a meat bait were distributed at night time to three Ethiopian wolf packs. Our target is to immunise at least 40% of all wolves in each population, reaching as many family packs as possible, including the dominant pair – on which pack stability largely depends. We recorded good uptake, with 88% of 119 baits deployed consumed over two nights. Using camera traps we monitored bait consumption, and we will next measure rabies titres levels in blood, to confirm the effectiveness of the vaccine over a larger sample than that of the trials”.

Oral vaccination using SAG2 has been successful in controlling, and even eradicating, rabies in wild carnivore populations in Europe. This approach now raises hopes for the survival of one of the rarest and most specialised carnivore species.

Preventive vaccination can improve the status of other threatened wildlife, and the Ethiopian wolf experience may lead to other practitioners to embrace it as part of their conservation tool kit, in a world demanding closer control of pathogens shared by wildlife, domestic animals and humans.

Watch a video below of a young Ethiopian wolf taking the bait

httpv://youtu.be/Ll2R5SSlWRg

RESOURCES

Elsevier. Sillero-Zubiri C, Marino J, Gordon CH, Bedin E, Hussein A, Regassa F, Banyard A and Fooks AR (2016): Feasibility and efficacy of oral rabies vaccine SAG2 in endangered Ethiopian wolves

Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (2017): National Action Plan for the conservation of the Ethiopian wolf (revised version 2017)

Big Cats in the Rain

”I think that the world should be full of cats and full of rain, that’s all, just cats and rain, rain and cats, very nice, good night.” ~ Charles Bukowski, ‘Betting on the Muse: Poems and Stories’
Cats and rain don’t generally go well together. However, if you’re a big cat in the African wild, then it is pretty challenging to avoid those epic, rainy season downpours, and at other times the occasional passing shower. For those mighty felines, it’s just something they’ve learnt to live with – even if it looks like they are not enjoying it!
That said, there is something magical and enchanting about seeing leopards, lions and cheetahs in the rain, and for both amateur and professional photographers alike, these scenes can produce some stunning images. For that reason, we are sharing with you today some of the incredible and captivating Big Cats in the Rain photos, taken by our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018 competition entrants. Enjoy!

? Waiting for the rain to pass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Willem Kruger (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“It was a hot day in the park, and as we were near Kampersboom, we came across two lionesses and one male lion lying in the shade. We decided to leave them be and drove on. About 10 km further in we saw some dark clouds with rain and lightning approaching us. Then we realised that the rain would move directly over the lions – so we turned around and waited patiently with the lions for the rain to arrive. It was interesting to see that when raindrops started to fall, the lions got up from under the trees and walked to the middle of the riverbed where they just sat there, waiting for the rain to pass. They did not look very impressed with the rain.” ~ Willem Kruger

? A magical shower in Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania © George Turner (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 5 Commendable Finalist)

“Habitat loss, illegal trade and human conflict have led to cheetah numbers plummeting to under 8,000 globally and less than 100 in Asia. I wanted to capture the vulnerability of the species in one, single image. I’d dreamt of chunky raindrops being illuminated by a distant light, with a storm overhead. With the forecast right, I waited in the hope that a cheetah would pass. He did. The image doesn’t shout ‘doom’ for a reason, and the ethereal effect of the light and raindrops highlights an element of hope.” ~ George Turner

? “Rain brothers” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Shivang Mehta (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“Two cheetah brothers getting drenched during a heavy downpour in the Maasai Mara.” ~ Shivang Mehta

? “Lioness in the rain” in Ndutu, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This photo was taken in the marshes of the Ndutu region. It was already evening and raining, and a pride of lions lay in the grass awaiting the arrival of the wildebeest. This particular lioness has risen to search the area for prey.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

? Leopard hunting in the rain in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Willie van Schalkwyk (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This female leopard was photographed while hunting in the pouring rain in the Kgalagadi.” ~ Willie van Schalkwyk

? Affectionate lion brothers in the rain in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Johan J. Botha (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“Lion brothers during an affectionate greeting in the rain.” ~ Johan J. Botha

? “Licking party” – a mother and her four cubs in the rain in Ndutu, Tanzania © Roie Galitz (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“It is not easy, and quite rare these days, for cheetah mothers to successfully raise all of her cubs to adulthood. They must overcome major struggles, like habitat loss, climate change and droughts. This is why I was so happy to capture this delightful sight of a mother and her four grown cubs coming together to celebrate the welcomed rainfall, after the long hot days in the savannah of Tanzania.” ~ Roie Galitz

? “King in the rain” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Subhash Nair (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“It was a rainy day in the Maasai Mara, and we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time, as these two lion brothers gave us some amazing photographic moments in the rain.” ~ Subhash Nair

? Lioness in the rain in Nairobi National Park, Kenya © Nagaraj Tilakraj (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“It was a Sunday family outing in the Nairobi National Park. After witnessing the beautiful early morning sunrise and a day-long drive throughout the park, we were on our way back when we saw two lionesses with their five cubs playing. I started to take photos when it started drizzling, though the rain didn’t stop them from playing. However, one of the lionesses then stood up – she seemed to have mixed emotions on her face. It was that moment, captured in this photo, that I will never forget.” ~ Nagaraj Tilakraj

? Heavy rains in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Regi Popelier (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

The wet or green season in the Maasai Mara happens from November to April. In this season there are two rainy periods: the short rains in November and the heavy rains in April and May. Many lodges and camps may close over the heavy rainy period because dirt roads turn muddy, rivers flood their banks, and visitor numbers are lower.

? A cheetah walks in the rain in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This photo was taken in the Maasai Mara during the rainy season. The grass was extremely high and the trails muddy, and I spotted this cheetah using the trails to move about.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

Elephants: Listen to the people of the Okavango – opinion

Elephants in the Okavango Delta in Botswana

Opinion post: Written by Thalefang Charles (sourced from third-party site: Mmegi)

SERONGA: Two days after the World Elephant Day on August 12, just after the worldwide thumb activists stopped tweeting their beautiful elephant images and messages calling for the protection of the last remaining gentle giants, an elephant killed a man near Gunotsoga in the Ngamiland, east of the Okavango Delta panhandle.

This is a story of the area that is popularly known as ‘Overseas’ in Botswana. It is dubbed Overseas because of its remoteness – to access the area involves either crossing the river with a ferry at Mohembo or flying in.

This remote eastern side of the Okavango Delta, an area of about 8,000 square kilometres is home to over 16,000 people who are living with just over 18,000 elephants. It is one of the unique places in the world, where elephants outnumber people.

The people of the area are battling to learn to live amongst the growing population of elephants, although at times it feels in vain, like this week when they have to bury another victim of an elephant trampling.

The entire area has no tarred road, even though it has some of the country’s most scenic villages. Every day the people observe an elephant curfew and seek refuge in their homesteads made out of letlhaka or river reeds. After sunset herds of elephants come from inland past the villages to the river.

Standing by the Ngarange riverside watching the mighty Okavango River stretching wide as far back as the eye can see or the beautiful high grounds of Sekondomboro overlooking the evergreen river plain are special sights. And it is clear from all the villages lined along the scenic river why the people decided to settle there. The area is incredibly beautiful and the perennial mighty river is a source of life to almost all the living creatures around the area.

On this side of the river, just after the Mohembo Ferry is the village of Mohembo East. It is the first settlement in Overseas in the NG11. In there Kgosi Mothohelo begins with complaints of too many elephants. He says, “Most of the elephants that are troubling us are from a park [Mahango Game Park] in Namibia. They destroy our crops, especially at Kutakae along the border”.

Mothohelo suggests that the government should provide wildlife guards to camp around Kutakae during the farming season so that they could assist in driving the elephants away from their farms.

Elephant crossing fence in South Africa — Image source: The Dodo

Twenty kilometres from Mohembo East past Kauxwi and Xakao is the village of Sekombondoro. There Kgosi Mbindira Matabo reveals that they too have many elephants. Matabo suggests that hunting tenders of elephants should be brought back to control their growing population. He also recommends that the government should increase the number of game wardens in the area during the farming season.

Kgosi Keemetse Johane from Ngarange says an elephant attacked and nearly killed a person in April this year and the incident has sent shockwaves in the village.

“We are now living in fear. We can’t go and look after our cattle or travel to our lands, which are far from the village because we are scared of elephants,” Johane says.

He requested the government to speed up the compensation process after wildlife damages and find ways that the people would realise the benefit of the wildlife so that they do not see them just as dangerous beasts that are hazardous to their lives.

After Ngarange is the village of Mokgacha, located at an area with beautiful big trees and there, Kgosi Joshua Gwexa also complains about the elephants.

He says, “Here the elephants are so many that during the ploughing season we did not plant anything because of the many elephants in the area. After sunset, we do not go out at night. So we support the lifting of the hunting ban because we feel it might help with the elephants’ movement”.

The village of Seronga is located at the end of the panhandle as the Okavango River transforms into a delta. Seronga is the largest village in the area and its leader Kgosi Maeze Maeze holds major influence in Overseas. Kgosi Maeze says the elephant population in the area is threatening the existence of other species.

“There are many elephants here and they have destroyed the vegetation. Our goats and small wild animals are under threat because there is not enough grass for eating and hiding. They are out of control,” Maeze reports. “The people are not cultivating crops because of the elephants and they now rely on government destitute programmes although they are able and capable to feed themselves.”

The Seronga chief also welcomed the move to lift the hunting ban saying it would assist in controlling of the elephant population in their area.

Elephants walking down a road in Botswana

From Seronga, the road follows the Okavango spillway heading towards the Linyanti area. The first settlement on this road is Gunotsoga. Kgosi Gakegane Saoxo of Gunotsoga says they love elephants but they are now just too many.

“We want them here. They make our land beautiful and that is also why our grandparents lived here, but they are too many and that is problematic. We want to remain with a manageable number so the government must figure out how to do that, even with hunting it would help us,” Kgosi Saoxo states.

Kgosi Boitshwarelo Mosenyegi from Eretsha says some days the elephants do not even leave the village throughout the day.

“As we speak now, there are elephants in the middle of the village. People can’t access the river to fetch water because they are afraid of elephants. Right now they got small calves and they are extremely dangerous and we live in fear. So the government must find a way, whether through hunting or otherwise to reduce the numbers in our area,” Kgosi Mosenyegi argues.

After Eretsha is a village of Beetsha where Kgosi Bonang Karundu also reiterated other chiefs’ suggestions of finding a way to reduce elephants in the area.

Kgosi Karundu says, “We’ve got a lagoon in the village and the elephants drink here, which poses serious risk to many people. Some of these elephants are very aggressive as they attack people without any provocation”.

Another village elder from Beetsha, Marota Moriri suggested that elephants should be sold to other countries because they are just too many and are unmanageable in their area.

An elephant biologist based in the area, Dr Anna Songhurst of Ecoexist Project differs with the people’s reports of over-population of elephants. She reports that from their surveys of NG11 there are about 18,000 elephants. She argues that the assumption that there are too many elephants is not based on scientific fact, but it is mainly due to “more people encountering elephants”.

“I wouldn’t say there are too many elephants in the area. And I wouldn’t say that the current numbers are unsustainable,” notes Songhurst.

Songhurst suggests that the best solution is to create big movement corridors across the borders of Botswana, Namibia and Angola.

Anthropologist at Ecoexist Project, Dr Amanda Stronza who has been working with communities in the area to find solutions to co-exist with elephants says, “to ensure a future for elephants, we must partner with people to find solutions to human-elephant conflict and wildlife crime”.

“The world loves elephants, but who are the people that bear the costs of living with elephants? It’s people here in Botswana. People here experience relatively few benefits from elephants, and we talk a lot in our project on finding ways for the people to benefit from elephants,” says Stronza.

“If you care about elephants, the best thing is to support the people that live with elephants,” she challenges all elephant lovers.

Herd of elephants at a river in Botswana

‘Rise of the Matriarch’: International crew for SA-led all-women conservation expedition

The Elephant Ignite Expedition crew at Linyangwa School in Malawi — The first expedition was held in 2016, called the Elephant Ignite Expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

Final touches are being made to an all-women 50-day conservation adventure from South Africa into southern Africa. The Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition brings together 12 women from around the world who will travel 9,000 km across four countries to raise awareness about the contentious human-wildlife conflict.

Headed by Carla Geyser, a KwaZulu-Natal-based eco-warrior, humanitarian and founder of the NPO, Blue Sky Society Trust, the team will fan out across South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia next month in an epic 4×4 adventure that see them meeting women conservation heroes who are involved in extraordinary projects to help conserve Africa’s nature and wildlife.

South African conservationist and adventurer, Carla Geyser, with elephant being collared — South African conservationist and adventurer, Carla Geyser, is putting the finishing touches to her all-women *Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch* expedition that will see her leading a team of 11 women into southern Africa for as SOS conservation mission. Here she is during a elephant collaring exercise with the 2016 Elephant Ignite Expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

American wildlife biologist and conservation scientist, Jennifer Palmer, will fly in to join the team for 28 days. The 44-year old is the founder of Women for Wildlife – an international movement to support and unite women and girls around the world who are devoted to wildlife and conservation.

Palmer’s belief that the solutions to the world’s greatest wildlife challenges are found among the power and leadership of women, is what drew her to the Journey’s with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition. “I’m looking forward to being part of a dedicated team of inspiring women, being back in the field connecting with on-the-ground conservation projects and offering support in whatever way I am able. I also can’t wait to connect with communities and wildlife along the journey.”

For 41-year old Durban-born Bronwyn Laing, this will be her second conservation mission with Geyser. Laing, who now lives in Tanzania, was part of South Africa’s first all-women expedition to Kenya in 2016 that was also headed by Geyser. That experience has helped manage her expectations this time around. She will join the team for the final two weeks of the expedition.

“Having done this before, I know what an incredible experience it is,” Laing says.”Carla puts a lot of time and effort into getting to know the organisations that we support. This allows us to have a unique behind the scenes look at the exceptional work that is being done to conserve our animals and wilderness.”

American nurse and travel blogger, Emily Scott, signed up as soon as she heard about the expedition.

“I am looking forward to meeting inspiring people working in wildlife conservation,” the 33-year old explains. “Human-wildlife conflict is an extremely complicated issue – finding ways to protect threatened species while also respecting local communities is a real challenge. But based on the ingenuity and commitment I’ve seen throughout Africa, I’m very excited to learn about how locals are tackling these issues and how we can support their efforts.”

Locally, three women from Geyser’s home province, KwaZulu-Natal, are counting down the days to their eco-adventure.

East Coast Radio personality, Erin Dickson, will spend two weeks on the road with the team.

“I hope that we can make a real impact on how people view our wildlife and draw attention to the impact of human-wildlife conflict and poaching on our environment,” says the 26- year old. “It’s so important that we get the message out there. I hope to make a positive impact on the lives of everyone we meet along the way and make some great memories while making a difference.”

Midlands resident, Lungile Dimba, an Education Administrator at WESSA (Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa) will spend 14 days on expedition alongside Geyser.

The 24-year old believes the Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch mission is bigger than any of the crew members: “Morally, everything on Earth deserves love and deserves to be taken care of. This includes all the animals and the environment. There are few people who care about nature and I am so grateful for the opportunity to be part of the few who educate the importance of valuing our environment. I believe environmental work is the cleanest career path on Earth.”

Environment education administrator, Lungile Dimba — KZN Midlands environment education administrator, Lungile Dimba, says it’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to join the Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela, who works part-time at Geyser’s Blue Sky Society Trust, will spend 15 days on the journey.

The 29-year old, who is from Umzimkhulu, says she’s looking forward to meeting amazing women from around the world who share the same passion that she does.

“I feel honoured to be given such an amazing opportunity,” Biyela says. “Carla’s work really inspires me to play my part and to make a difference not only here in South Africa but elsewhere on the continent too. I’m looking forward to learning and growing as an individual, teaching children how to protect our environment, and I look forward to them teaching me something too.”

Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela, from Durban, says she’s looking forward to meeting amazing women from around the world who share the same passion for the environment that she does © Blue Sky Society Trust

Cape Town documentary-maker, Sam Suter from Black Bean Productions and Alize Jireh a camera lady from USA round off the 12-member crew.

While Geyser is putting the finishing touches to expedition she says it’s not too late for corporates or benevolent individuals to get involved:

“Here in Africa, we are losing on average two game rangers a week, three rhinos a day, and one elephant every 15 minutes. That’s a pretty sobering thought. Our conservationists and brave anti-poaching units put their lives on the line and grapple this issue on a daily basis as they seek to educate the youth about conservation and in the process empower communities with skills needed to reduce human-wildlife conflict. We can’t simply sit back and do nothing. We owe it to future generations to do as much as we possibly can to protect our precious planet. If we each do a little, we can accomplish a great deal. Every little bit counts. Every cent matters.”

The expedition will see crew members engage with local communities especially children on the human-wildlife issue and distribute 30 000 educational booklets, connect with anti-poaching groups, visit conservation groups and schools, and meet with incredible women, “she-roes” who are doing remarkable things at a grassroots level to assist in conservation efforts.

Funds raised during the expedition will benefit four causes: Elephants Alive (South Africa), Rare and Endangered Species Trust (Namibia), Eco-Exist Project (Botswana) and the Soft Foot Alliance Trust (Zimbabwe).

“We encourage fellow South Africans to be part of our journey on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter,” says Geyser. “Your messages of encouragement are truly appreciated. We don’t have a backup team so it’s nice to know that there is some positive support coming from home.”

The Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch team leaves from the Getaway Show, Ticketpro Dome, Johannesburg on 16 September 2018. The expedition returns to South Africa on 28th October 2018.

Watch highlights of the 2016 Journeys with Purpose: Elephant Ignite expedition:

Video: 90 African buffalo welcomed into community conservancy in Zambia

African buffalo being released into conservancy in Zambia — “The buffalo are back! The buffalo are back! I never thought that I would see this happen in my lifetime!” exclaimed Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta © Peace Parks Foundation

Media release from Peace Parks Foundation

On 23 August 2018, the first 90 of 200 African buffalo were presented to the communities of Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Deputy Chief Joyce Sekute to further develop the Simalaha Community Conservancy, which forms a vital Zambian component of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, or KAZA as it is known.

KAZA is the biggest terrestrial cross-border conservation system in the world – connecting 37 protected areas across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The aim is to preserve large ecosystems across borders and re-establish corridors that allow the free movement of wildlife along ancient migratory routes.

Dr Nyambe Nyambe, Executive Director of the KAZA Secretariat, stated: “Our vision is to establish KAZA as a world-class transfrontier conservation and tourism destination. Within this, socio-economic development is critical. This can only be done by increasing sustainable livelihood and development opportunities for the local communities, such as those in Simalaha, who often bear the ‘cost’ of living with wildlife.”

The Simalaha Community Conservancy comprises 180,000 ha of communal land and lies within one of six key wildlife dispersal areas in KAZA, namely the Chobe Zambezi dispersal area that reaches from Chobe National Park in Botswana to Kafue National Park in Zambia. The Conservancy was established in 2012 to ensure viable natural resource management and support wildlife conservation; to address basic human rights of the Sesheke and Sekhute people, and develop alternative models for income generation for these two communities.

Income from wildlife management was identified as a critical component of the Conservancy and in 2013 a wildlife sanctuary measuring 24,000 ha was established as part of Simalaha. Through the active reintroduction of wildlife that used to occur in the area, and with the addition of the buffalo, the sanctuary now boasts eight different species totalling more than 1,600 animals.

African buffalo being captured for relocation into Zambia — Experts game capture teams were used to safely capture and transport the buffalo from Namibia to Zambia © Peace Parks Foundation

The buffalo were purchased from the Waterberg Plateau Park in Namibia, which had exceeded its carrying capacity for the species. In July, 120 buffalo were captured and spent 30-days in a quarantine facility in Namibia where they were tested and monitored for any signs of foot-and-mouth disease. Ninety of the now certified disease-free animals were released into a 2,500-ha fenced section within Simalaha’s wildlife sanctuary, with the remaining 30 to be brought in next week. An additional 80 will be captured and transported to Simalaha in September, bringing the total to 200 buffalo. Providing disease-free buffalo to Simalaha was crucial, as this member of Africa’s popular Big 5 will not only boost the tourism offering, but will also generate income through the sale of the offspring of the buffalo to other areas in Zambia.

Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta highlighted the fact that the totem animal for his Chiefdom was the buffalo. In years gone by, his chiefdom was responsible for defending their territory from invasion from neighbouring communities and through their efforts were given the totem animal of the buffalo, renowned for its fierceness and impressive defensive skills.

“The buffalo are back! The buffalo are back! I never thought that I would see this happen in my lifetime!” exclaimed the Chief.

The acquisition of the buffalo was made possible by Peace Parks Foundation through the support of its generous donors. The Foundation has been providing the Sesheke and Sekute chiefdoms with technical and financial support since the inception of the Conservancy.

Speaking at the ceremonial release of the buffalo, Peace Parks Foundation CEO, Werner Myburgh said: “These buffalo represent intrinsic economic value and improved livelihoods for people living in the Conservancy and demonstrate our continued commitment to the Simalaha initiative. Simalaha serves as a model of success for community-based conservation engagement and we are continuously inspired by the community’s devotion to protecting the region’s natural and cultural heritage.”

The people of Simalaha rejoiced through dance and song. — The people of Simalaha rejoiced through dance and song © Peace Parks Foundation

Simalaha seeks not only to conserve wildlife but also to improve the social, economic and environmental circumstances of the communities that host the Conservancy. In this regard, important milestones have been achieved over the past five years which include the training of 22 community wildlife scouts, known as Village Scouts, to protect the animals in the wildlife sanctuary; provision of solar lighting to key communal facilities; and the construction of houses for teachers at a local school. In addition, more than 1 200 farmers have been provided with seeds and trained in Conservation Agriculture methods to improve their yield with less impact on the environment, with many now producing surplus crops to sell. In partnership with Grounded, a process has started to create access to markets for the excess produce.

“We want to thank our partners, the Department of National Parks and Wildlife of Zambia and the Namibian Ministry of Environment and Tourism as well as the kind and continued support of our donors, in particular the MAVA Foundation for Nature, Pamela and Neville Isdell, the COmON Foundation, Coffr Foundation, the Swedish and Dutch Postcode Lotteries and KfW for helping to make Simalaha the success it is today”, concluded Mr Myburgh.

WATCH: The first 90 buffalo were released to welcoming cheers from the community

Video: Lions return to Malawi’s Liwonde National Park

Lions in the boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

Press release from African Parks

Nine lions made history this past week when they were translocated to Liwonde National Park in Malawi, returning the species to the park for the first time in 20 years.

On the 22nd of August 2018, conservation non-profit African Parks, in partnership with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), and with support from the Dutch Government, the Lion Recovery Fund and the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, announced the completion of a series of lion translocations from South Africa to Malawi. Wild lions have been reintroduced to Liwonde National Park two decades after a breeding population was present. Seven lions from South Africa joined two males brought from Majete Wildlife Reserve in March to re-establish the species in the park.

Their arrival also follows the recent reintroduction of cheetah to Liwonde in May 2017, as part of a wider initiative to restore predators to the region. This translocation also included introducing an additional five lions into Majete from South Africa to enhance genetic diversity of the founder population in the reserve, where the predators were also reintroduced by African Parks in 2012, years after being poached out.

These latest introductions highlight the ongoing restoration of Malawi’s natural heritage by the Malawian Government and African Parks for the long-term benefit of the people of Malawi.

Female lion in boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

“We are immensely proud of the restoration of our country’s parks and are committed to ensuring the ongoing protection of these extraordinary national assets” said the Director of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife, Brighton Kumchedwa. “The reintroduction of lions and other emblematic species form a core part of this vision, enabling the rejuvenation of wildlife populations, enhancing tourism and socio-economic development, and contributing to the well-being of those living around the parks”.

Lion in crate moved to boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

In Liwonde, years of human-wildlife conflict and poaching eradicated resident predator populations, but, before bringing predators back, African Parks overhauled law enforcement to secure the park, constructed a robust perimeter fence, removed thousands of snare traps, established rigorous ranger patrols, and worked with local communities to prevent poaching and human-wildlife conflict.

With infrastructure and security in place allowing a prey base to recover, African Parks began the process of reintroducing wildlife.

Lion loaded on to truck for relocation — Lion loaded on to truck © Sean Viljoen

The latest translocation marks the return of an iconic predator to Liwonde but also represents a new chapter for Majete Wildlife Reserve.

In addition to the seven lions sent to Liwonde from South Africa, five lions were introduced into Majete, bringing the reserve’s population up to 17 while ensuring greater genetic diversity. The new arrivals, fitted with tracking collars to facilitate daily monitoring, were released on Wednesday August 15th into the wider park from enclosed bomas which supported their adjustment and social bonding.

Lion released in to boma in Liwonde © Sean Viljoen

A century ago, Africa contained more than 200,000 wild lions but in recent decades, habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict and diminished prey have caused Africa’s lion population to plummet to just fewer than 20,000, eradicating them from up to 90% of their historical range. Lions are now extinct in 26 African countries, but Malawi has become a bright spot among efforts to conserve the species.

Male lion in boma in Liwonde © Sean Viljoen

“Alongside Malawi’s Government and people, African Parks has shown what the pinnacle of lion recovery looks like,” said Dr Jeffrey Parrish, Vice-President of the Wildlife Conservation Network, founder of the Lion Recovery Fund. “Rewilding Malawi’s parks and restoring this flagship predator to its past domain serves as a beacon of hope that we can indeed recover lions and their landscapes across Africa, with and for communities and economies.”

Predators serve an important ecological function. “Bringing back lions restores a key species that is critical to the healthy functioning of the natural system” explains Patricio Ndadzela, African Parks’ Deputy Director of Conservation, “Symbolic of the Malawian Government’s commitment to revitalising its parks and wildlife, the translocation also contributes to the establishment of a significant national predator population and to the development of sustainable tourism economies to promote local livelihoods and socio-economic growth”.

“Parks are the cornerstones of conservation and rewilding parks with their top predators makes a park complete,” said Justin Winters, Executive Director of the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation. “We are honoured to support the bold actions of African Parks through the Lion Recovery Fund.”

Watch the video, Lions Return to Liwonde, from African Parks below

The Chimpanzee: Our Forest Kin

“The alpha male chimp was sitting in the forest path ahead, staring into the distance in a melancholy way as if contemplating life’s challenges, chin resting on balled fist. My party and I were waiting it out, aware that it was us who were intruding on his territory and home. He knew we were waiting because every few minutes he would glance our way disdainfully. The rest of the troop were spread about us, a fair distance away in the forest understorey, quietly relaxing and socialising. Life was good. For now.

“He then gave a heaving sigh and swaggered towards us, gangster-like. Being first in the path, I stepped aside and into the thick forest understory, holding my breath as 50kg of muscle and sinew brushed past me. And then all hell broke loose.

Chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda — A vocal chimp in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Fi Goodall (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“With no warning or apparent reasoning, he went charging off into the forest, screaming hysterically and attacking other troop members. Chaos ensued as the entire troop erupted into a melee of gratuitous violence. Smaller chimps were flung about by their limbs and larger members charged about like hillbillies in a barroom brawl, pant-hooting and screaming at full volume. Thirty seconds later, it was all over, as the cacophony subsided into whimpers and then silence. No harm done then. My group and I were wallpaper to the drama, wary observers, ignored.

“This naked savagery was in sharp contrast to what we had witnessed the previous day. A mother was nursing a tiny infant, and this same large male approached her and tried to touch the baby. The mother slapped his hand and gave him a look that would instantly freeze boiling water. He cringed, adjusted his strategy and tried again – same result. After several attempts, she permitted a few seconds of gentle (for him) patting before nudging him aside and ambling off with her baby. The big male seemed crestfallen, confused even, as he gazed after her.

“These encounters took place in Tanzania’s Mahale Mountains National Park, and I was lucky enough to be accompanying a small party of Africa Geographic safari clients. I have encountered chimpanzees in several areas in Africa, and continue to be fascinated by them.
“The following notes, based on information provided by IUCN Red List, will provide a greater understanding as to how this magnificent creature is doing in the face of rapid population expansion of another great ape, Homo sapiens. Also, read the last section if you are keen to see chimps in the wild.”

~ Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

A black and white photo of a chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda — “The Thinker” – a chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Yaron Schmid from YS Wildlife Photography and Safaris (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

Brief introduction

Chimpanzees live in western and central African primary and secondary woodlands and forests, farmland and fallow oil palm plantations. They are the smallest of the great apes and our closest living relative.

They live in troops averaging 35 members (the largest known troop has 150 members). Home ranges vary – one of the smallest is 6 km² at Budongo in Uganda, and one of the largest is 72 km² at Semliki, also in Uganda.

Like humans, chimpanzees are omnivorous. They are opportunistic feeders, with fruit forming half of the diet, supplemented by leaves, stems, seeds, flowers, bark, pith, honey, mushrooms, resin, eggs, and animal prey such as insects and medium-sized mammals. They are the most carnivorous of the great apes (other than humans) and are known to form hunting parties to track down and catch species such as colobus monkeys.

A chimpanzee vocalising in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Adam Barnard (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Chimpanzees are proficient tool users, using sticks to extract bees, ants and termites from their nests, and stone and wooden hammers to crack nuts. They are also known to hammer tree buttress roots with sticks and their feet to communicate with other chimps.

Chimpanzees reach puberty at 7-8 years of age, and females have a 35-day reproductive cycle, commencing at 13-14 years of age, although earlier has been recorded. Chimpanzees reproduce throughout the year and have a gestation period of 230 days. Twins are occasionally born, but the norm is a single infant, and weaning is at 4-5 years of age.

A female can give birth to as many as nine infants over her lifetime and remains reproductive into her late forties. Only one-third of common chimpanzee progeny survive beyond infancy, whereas in contrast, the infant mortality rate for bonobos is low, with 73% of offspring surviving to age six. Maximum life span is unknown but thought to be about 50 years. Generation time is estimated to be 25 years.

**Clockwise from left**: 1) *Chimpanzees live in western and central African primary and secondary woodlands and forests, farmland and fallow oil palm plantations* © Adam Barnard; 2) *A chimp grooming itself* © Fi Goodall; 3) “*Daydreaming” in Kibale National Park, Uganda* © Mark Paul

Taxonomy

There are two chimpanzee species – the common chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes) and the bonobo or pygmy chimpanzee (Pan paniscus).
There are four subspecies of common chimpanzee, namely the Western chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes verus); the Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee (P. t. ellioti); the Central chimpanzee (P. t. troglodytes); and the Eastern chimpanzee (P. t. schweinfurthii). Chimpanzee taxonomy and genetics is an ongoing field of study.

A black and white study of a resting chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Yaron Schmid from YS Wildlife Photography and Safaris (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Conservation status and populations

Chimpanzees are completely protected by national and international laws in all countries of their range, and it is, therefore, illegal to kill, capture or trade in live chimpanzees or their body parts. This legal standing, however, does not prevent the killing of chimpanzees throughout their ranges.

The common chimpanzee is the most abundant and widespread of the great apes (population estimate 345,000 to 470,000) and yet is classified as ‘Endangered’ on IUCN’s Red List because of high levels of poaching, infectious diseases, and loss of habitat and deterioration of habitat quality. There has been a significant population reduction in the past 20-30 years, and it is suspected that this reduction will continue for the next 30-40 years.

The estimated population reduction over three generations (75 years) from 1975 to 2050 is suspected to exceed 50%. Major risk factors include the ongoing rapid growth of human populations, poaching for bushmeat and the commercial bushmeat trade, diseases that are transferable from humans to animals (such as Ebola), the extraction industries and industrial agriculture, corruption and lack of law enforcement, lack of capacity and resources, and political instability in some range states.
• Western chimpanzee (Senegal and Ghana) – 18,000 to 65,000 individuals
• Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee (Nigeria and Cameroon) – 6,000 to 9,000 individuals
• Central chimpanzee (Cameroon and DR Congo) – 140,000 individuals
• Eastern chimpanzee (Central African Republic and DR Congo, Burundi, Rwanda, western Uganda and western Tanzania, with a small, relict population in South Sudan) – 181,000 to 256,000 individuals

**Left:** “*One last look” in Kibale, Uganda* © Mark Paul; **Right:** *Chimpanzees live in troops averaging 35 members* © Adam Barnard

The bonobo is restricted to the lowland forests of DR Congo and has a population estimated to be a minimum of 15,000 to 20,000 individuals, although only 30% of its historic range has been surveyed. Bonobos are classified as ‘Endangered’ on IUCN’s Red List because of high levels of poaching, loss of habitat and deterioration of habitat quality and diseases that are transferable from humans to animals (such as Ebola).

In some areas, local taboos against eating bonobo meat still exist, but in others, these traditions are disintegrating due to changing cultural values and population movements. There has been a significant population reduction in the past 15-20 years, and it is suspected that this reduction will continue for the next 60 years.

*Bonobos in the Democratic Republic of Congo.* All photos © Prelena Soma Owen

Major threats

POACHING
Poaching is the greatest threat to chimpanzees, with frequent extinction occurring in entire local chimpanzee populations. Increases in human populations, easy availability of guns and ammunition, transport system efficiency, and financial incentives for supplying urban markets with bushmeat have resulted in swathes of land in the forest zone of Africa being cleared of wildlife.

Chimpanzees are generally hunted opportunistically with snares and guns but are sometimes targeted because they provide more meat than smaller mammals, such as duikers, and poisoned because they threaten local crops. Poaching is especially intense near mining sites and logging camps – where bushmeat is usually the primary source of protein available. The explosion of these extraction industries has introduced a network of roads into what were vast and roadless forest blocks. Truck drivers provide transport logistics to what has become a lucrative bushmeat industry.

Baby chimpanzees are sometimes trafficked as pets when their parents are killed for bushmeat.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Caged chimp discovered in an illegal zoo in Guinea, which was subsequently rescued*; 2) *Chimp and gorilla skull dealers in Bertoua, Cameroon*; 3) & 4) *Baby chimpanzees are sometimes trafficked as pets when their parents are killed for bushmeat (these two photos comes from two separate incidents*). All photos supplied by © EAGLE Network

HABITAT LOSS AND DEGRADATION

Subsistence/slash-and-burn agriculture
The conversion of forest to farmland across Africa has severely reduced the availability of chimpanzee habitat. Parts of West Africa had lost up to 80% of their original forest cover by the early 2000s. Extensive subsistence farming in the Albertine Rift area (eastern DR Congo, western Rwanda and western Uganda) has destroyed much of the sub-montane forest used by chimpanzees. Central Africa is experiencing lower forest cover loss.

Logging, mining and oil
Timber concessions undergo removal of important food trees and resultant habitat degradation. The disturbance factor due to logging activities is also high. Mining and drilling for oil devastate wildlife habitat and lead to large-scale human settlement and the building of roads, railways and other infrastructure.

Industrial agriculture
Africa has become the new frontier for oil palm plantations, which will hit chimpanzee populations hard in coming years, because of habitat loss.

Major transportation infrastructure
Massive road projects, sometimes several kilometres wide, fragment chimpanzee habitat and enable human settlement in previously wilderness areas.
All of the above extraction industries result in habitat fragmentation due to the building of roads and introduce infrastructure and channels for the trade in wildlife products. They also cause human migration and the introduction of diseases to chimpanzees.

DISEASE
Infectious diseases that are zoonotic (transferable between humans and animals), especially Ebola, are a significant cause of great ape die-offs. Transmission between humans of Ebola is rapid, and humans are more mobile than apes, crossing large rivers and other barriers that apes do not cross – carrying the disease with them.

Because chimpanzees and humans are so similar, chimpanzees succumb to many diseases that afflict humans. Infectious diseases, including outbreaks of respiratory disease and anthrax, are the leading cause of death in several chimpanzee populations that have been habituated to human presence.

“The wise one” in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Prelena Soma Owen (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

Final word

Yes, chimpanzees are under severe pressure and facing an uncertain future, mainly because of the antics of that other great ape, Homo sapiens. But there is hope because chimpanzees are a resilient species living in vast swathes of equatorial forest in the heart of Africa.

We close with a quote that reflects chimpanzees in a different light to the above scientific notes:

“In what terms should we think of these beings, nonhuman yet possessing so very many human-like characteristics? How should we treat them? Surely we should treat them with the same consideration and kindness as we show to other humans; and as we recognise human rights, so too should we recognise the rights of the great apes? Yes.” ~ Jane Goodall

The feet of a chimpanzee in Kibale Forest National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Trek for chimpanzees with Africa Geographic
There are several places in Africa to trek for chimpanzees, from the accessible highland forests of Kibale in Uganda to Rwanda’s Nyungwe, where the sheer biodiversity on offer will leave you speechless, to the remote forests of Mahale in Tanzania, where the chimps often venture onto the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Each option has its own unique appeal and other available activities. Trekking for chimps is best woven into a more extensive itinerary, due to the distances and logistics involved. Find out more about your chimpanzee trekking safari.

New survey: Lion breeding industry harming South Africa’s reputation

Captive-bred lion at a fence — © Pippa Hankinson / Blood Lions

NEWS DESK POST by Humane Society International/Africa (HSI/Africa)

A nationwide survey, by the Humane Society International (HSI), has revealed that the majority of South Africans believe the captive lion breeding industry is harming the country’s international reputation. This announcement comes on the first of a two-day South African Parliamentary inquiry into the lion breeding industry. According to the study, South Africans demonstrate a deep dislike of activities associated with the lion breeding industry, including trophy hunting and canned hunting of tame lions, and are also concerned that the trade in lion bones will stimulate market demand leading to increased poaching of lions and big cats.

The results showed the following:

• That South Africans, by more than a three to one margin, agree that the industry is harming South Africa’s international reputation, with 65% strongly agreeing/agreeing, and 21% strongly disagreeing/disagreeing;

• More broadly, 56% of South Africans fully oppose/oppose to some extent trophy hunting, 60% fully oppose/oppose to some extent canned lion hunting;

• And by nearly a six to one margin, 77% strongly agree/agree with conservationists who say that the trade in lion bones will stimulate market demand leading to increased poaching of lions and big cats.

Results followed the recent local and global backlash against an announcement by South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs that it would allow 1,500 captive-bred lion skeletons to be exported this year, nearly double last year’s export quota of 800 captive-bred lion skeletons. South Africa’s lion breeding industry has been under the spotlight since the 2015 release of the award-winning film Blood Lions® and the eponymous Blood Lions® Campaign, of which Humane Society International is a partner.

“These polling results demonstrate that South Africans are overwhelmingly concerned industry is harming South Africa’s international reputation,” said Audrey Delsink, executive director of HSI/Africa. “The captive lion breeding and the lion bone trade is South Africa’s claim to shame. Last year’s bone export quota of 800 was shocking enough: the increase to 1,500 in 2018 has no scientific basis and is a blatant license to kill for the lion breeding industry.”

At the same time, a new report from the South African Institute of International Affairs, commissioned by HSI, found that captive lion breeding industry revenue – from lion cub petting and lion walking tourist attractions – is less than 2% of South Africa’s tourism revenue. Yet, the study finds the lion breeding industry as a whole, including these attractions as well as canned lion hunting and skeleton exports, may seriously undermine the international reputation of South Africa and harm the tourism industry. The study concluded that, “the opportunity costs and negative externalities associated with the predator breeding industry may – along with other threats facing wild lion survival – undermine South Africa’s brand attractiveness as a tourism destination by up to R54.51bn over the next decade.”

Delsink says that public opinion and scientific analysis show that, instead of bolstering this unpopular industry by allowing the export of captive-bred lion skeletons, the South African government should be shutting it down. “The South African government can no longer justify a scandalous industry that is condemned by the South African public, only benefits the pockets of breeders and traders, and threatens to seriously damage South Africa’s tourism sector.”

The survey results can be viewed here.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

• According to a report submitted to the 30th meeting of the CITES Animals Committee in July 2018, Vietnam was the largest importer of lion bodies and the second-largest importer of skeletons. Lao People’s Democratic Republic was the largest importer of lion bones and skeletons. The United States was the largest importer of lion trophies. The report suggested that some lion poaching and trafficking involves organised criminal groups, and seizures alongside other commodities such as rhino horn indicate that these groups are dealing in multiple species.

• Read The Extinction Business: Lion bone trade threatens world’s big cats – an investigative report by EMS Foundation and Ban Animal Trading that reveals startling and alarming factors that have a significant negative impact on worldwide big cat conservation.

Celebrating Africa’s Wild Babies

It was not too long ago that we featured our first incredibly adorable gallery celebrating Africa’s Wild Babies. After recovering from the exposure of such cuteness, we discovered that there are more “oohs” and “awws” to be had with wild babies, but now with their mums and dads!
What better way to appreciate Africa’s wild but through the close bonds that are shared between babies and their parents – and all captured on camera by some incredibly talented photographers for you to enjoy.
So sit back and relax while you click your way through our gallery of photos taken by some of our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 entrants.

? A cub finds solace in a pride member’s arms in a reserve in South Africa © Matthew Murray (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“An unusual instance in which a lioness brought out her only cub to a wildebeest kill at a very young age. The cub was only just able to walk very short distances and mistook this young male lion’s paw for its mother’s paw, finding a bit of solace in a dangerous situation.” ~ Matthew Murray

? “Don’t worry mom” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“We were spending time with the Shingwedzi baboon troop in Kruger National Park for the first three hours after sunrise. It was beautiful to see the little ones waking up and exploring with the troop. This little guy was still very new to the rest of the troop and always stayed close to its mother. After drinking time, he was lying on her lap, displaying an intimate and lovable bond between mom and baby. When he stretched out to touch mom’s cheek, it was really as if he meant to say: ‘Don’t worry mom.'” ~ Annemarie du Plessis

? A leopard mother and her cub rest on a rocky hill in Namiri Plains, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“No matter how many leopards I see in the wild, I cannot get enough of these fascinating cats. Just like I am in awe of their stealthy hunting skills and sudden bursts of power and ruthlessness, I was humbled by the tenderness with which this mother looked after her single cub. Never had I seen a leopard with such a young cub, and to be able to spend many hours with them over three days was a true privilege. I often think about this cub and hope that it is growing strong and beautiful – just like its mother.” ~ Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

? “A mother’s love” in Manyeleti Game Reserve, South Africa © Armand Grobler (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“The bonding between lion pride members is an essential key to their survival and a reason why lions will often outlive other big cats. Lions can often be seen allogrooming, which strengthens family bonds through licking and rubbing up against one another, with both females and males taking part in this activity.” ~ Armand Grobler

A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair (Photographer of the Year 2018 First runner-up)

“This photo was taken in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. Walking into this family of gorillas was spectacular. They were so comfortable in our presence, very relaxed and observant. It was amazing to see their strong family bond, and this photo highlights that. After a short time, they played and fed in front of us. Some of the youngsters ran through the group, seemingly knowing that it would cause a stir, and enjoying the reaction!” ~ Stuart Sinclair.

? A meerkat with baby in Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andrea Galli (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

In a colony of meerkats, the whole family, including the father and siblings, all take turns to help raise the babies (or pups). Female meerkats give birth to one to eight babies at a time, but it is more common for them to have three to four offspring at a time.

? “Unsteady but secure” in Skukuza, Kruger National Park, South Africa © Thinus Schoeman (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

“A family of elephants were resting in the shade of large riverine trees on the riverbank, approximately 8 to 10 metres from the road. I spotted this very young baby elephant, still unsure on its feet, secure between the elephant cow’s legs. I liked the natural framing the body and legs of the elephant cow provided and had an image in mind. I had time to take four photos before the baby turned away and disappeared deeper into the herd. It was a privilege to witness how protective the family was of this baby elephant.” ~ Thinus Schoeman

? “Can I tell you a secret?” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Ricci Goldstein (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

“On a misty morning drive towards Mopani, I was excited to be able to spot and photograph a hyena clan. Two important factors stood out for me in making this sighting a photographer’s dream. Firstly, the mist had slowly evaporated, and a soft light fell upon the savannah. This was coupled with an adorable interaction between a mother and her young.” ~ Ricci Goldstein

A gorilla and her young in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Uganda is home to about half the world’s population of mountain gorillas, with the majority of them living in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. Bwindi has as many as 11 habituated gorilla families available for tourists to track. Go gorilla trekking in Bwindi.

? “The crossing” – a matriarch and her family make their way over a dry lake bed in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Dana Kennedy (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“One of my favourite places in all of Africa is Lake Amboseli – where large families of elephants journey along the dry and well-travelled region. On this evening game drive, a matriarch and her family were making the long journey on the dry lake bed, and I had the immense privilege of capturing this image. It was a magical moment while watching the quiet trek in the fading light.” ~ Dana Kennedy

? A Cape fox pup pleads for food from his father in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana/South Africa © Johan J. Botha (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“I was photographing Cape fox pups playing at their den. Their father brought them rats and lizards as food from time to time, while the mother guarded them during the daytime. This pup did not get anything this time around and was pleading to his father for something to eat in typical Cape fox manner: licking the parents’ face.” ~ Johan J. Botha

? A protective hippo mother and baby in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda © Alessandro Tramonti (Photographer of the Year 2016 entrant)

Female hippos have a gestation period of eight months and usually have only one baby at a time. A baby hippo, or calf, weighs about 23-50 kg (50-110 lbs) when born. Hippos can be extremely aggressive and territorial, and a mother hippo won’t hesitate to protect its baby.

? A lion family at sunset in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Anja Gröbel (Photographer of the Year 2017 Finalist)

“We were on an evening game drive with our guide when we got caught by a storm. Once it had cleared, we slowly drove back to camp, and as we passed by a ridge, we heard a lion roar close by from behind a bush. Suddenly, a pride of around 14 lions appeared from behind a bush and moved into the sunset along the ridge, giving us this surreal Disney scene.” ~ Anja Gröbel

? A leopard cub about to surprise mum in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya © Andy Howe (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

A leopard’s hunting technique is to either ambush its prey or to stalk it. In either instance, it tries to get as close as possible to its target. It then makes a brief and explosive charge (up to 60km/h), pouncing on its prey and dispatching it with a bite to the neck. Read more interesting facts about leopards here.

Leopard hunting quota was issued despite official report showing significant population declines

Leopard population decline example graph — This graph is for illustrative purposes only and is not a reflection of any of the graphs from the report. The graphs from the official report reflect downward trends in most areas surveyed.

Opinion post: Written by Maxine Gaines, wildlife biologist

The Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA) has just this past week announced that it has lifted the countrywide two-year moratorium on leopard hunting in South Africa. They announced a quota for hunting of leopard to be allocated as follows: Five male leopards in Limpopo Province and two male leopards in KwaZulu-Natal. The leopards, according to the announcement, have to be males seven years or older. They claimed to have made this decision based on a determination by the Scientific Authority.

The information and data behind their decision has not been made public, although I do believe that under the Promotion of Access to Information Act (PAIA), it should be made available to all interested and affected parties. I had the opportunity to examine some of the science behind the DEA’s decision – via an official report from the Scientific Authority to the DEA. I have to say that I am flabbergasted at the DEA’s decision. The Scientific Authority has done an incredible job of obtaining accurate population estimates and trends across much of the country in a very short space of time. The amount of money, effort and time that went into this study must have been monumental, and the scientific authority are to be commended. But the news is not good.

The official report states that leopard are in serious trouble in this country. A brief summary of the scientific report follows:

1. The population has shown an overall decline of 11% year on year. And this is in areas that are considered suitable leopard habitat, and where leopard are considered to be relatively well protected. The situation in more marginal habitat and where leopard are not adequately protected will in all likelihood be far worse. The reality is that these marginal and unprotected areas, form a large part of leopard range in South Africa.*

2. Of the reserves surveyed during the two-year study period, 70% showed declines in leopard populations, with 42% of them showing dramatic declines. Only 15 % showed stable populations.

3. In KwaZulu-Natal, where quota has been allocated to hunt 2 leopard, 71% of the reserves studied showed declines in leopard populations, with 43% showing dramatic declines. Only 29% of reserves sampled showed stable populations, although these were of small populations.

4. The situation in all other provinces is just as sobering, with the Limpopo Province also showing declines in leopard population density in 100% of Limpopo sites monitored during the study period (July 2017 to June 2018), with 38% of these sites exhibiting dramatic declines. And yet Limpopo has been allocated 5 leopards to be hunted. Given that the government said in its statement to the public that “It is important to note that the hunting of leopard is only undertaken in specified hunting zones where scientific evidence indicates stable leopard populations” I wonder where exactly in Limpopo they intend to hunt those five leopards?

How on Earth did the DEA decide that this was a good idea?

The report goes on to say that poaching for leopard skins for cultural and traditional uses has been the main cause of the population declines witnessed in KwaZulu-Natal and possibly throughout South Africa. They suggest that this problem receives urgent attention. One religious group in South Africa (which has over 4 million members/voters), uses leopard skins in their ceremonies. What does the government plan to do about this identified cause of leopard population reductions?

So, the DEA is told that poaching has had a dramatic effect on leopard populations across the board and that the population has continued the alarming decline during the two years of the hunting ban. And yet they see fit to place further pressure on the population by reinstating trophy hunting?

After having worked through this official report, I am concerned that the DEA seems to have little interest in the conservation of leopard in this country. Thankfully there are some true conservationists in government and at the South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI), who have the best interests of our leopards at heart and have taken heed of the concerning results of the study undertaken by the Scientific Authority. I have to assume that they are under pressure from the DEA and the trophy hunting industry, and had no choice but to play a role in the reinstatement of the quota. These good people have ensured that the initial quota is low, but who is to say that this will not change for the worse next year, as they come under increased pressure?

I also believe that many conservationists (some in the Scientific Authority) who certainly have the best interests of leopard conservation at heart have been held to ransom for too long by the hunting industry. We hear so many stories, from hunters, game farm owners and conservationists alike, that if leopard hunting is not allowed, and farmers/hunters cannot make money from the leopards that pass through their properties by hunting them, then they will shoot them anyway and bury the evidence (the “shoot and shovel” mentality). This is a very real threat. Many of these game farmers deal in the death of wildlife all the time, so would think very little of getting rid of a leopard that is killing their wildlife stock and eroding their profit margins. Understandably, many conservationists are scared senseless by this scenario, and are consequently bullied into coming up with ways to justify quotas for the trophy hunting of leopard.

The damning conclusion I come to, after thoroughly analysing the official leopard population research report, is this: The science produced by world-renowned, respected conservation biologists that clearly shows a leopard population in dire straits, has been ignored completely by the government in determining leopard trophy hunting quotas.

*References:

Swanepoel, L. H., Lindsey, P., Somers, M. J., Van Hoven, W., & Dalerum, F. (2013). Extent and fragmentation of suitable leopard habitat in South Africa. Animal Conservation, 16(1), 41-50.

Sierra Leone’s Turtle Islands: The ultimate digital detox

Boats and village at Bumpetuk, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Written, and photographs, by Ian Packham

My skipper Moses has had his line tucked beneath his big toe, the nail as deeply ridged as the bark on a British oak, and streaming out behind our canoe for more than three hours without a bite. It means our dinner is looking limited in scope to the packs of pasta and couscous tucked neatly beneath the simple bench I’m sitting on. Given I’ve seen him haul out coota – the Krio word for barracuda – stretching to half his height on choppier days than this one with the same simple hand line, it comes as something of a surprise to the both of us.

A lifelong islander, Moses, like many Sierra Leoneans, appears more comfortable on the slatted orange planks of the large hand-crafted pirogue than on the terra firma of the continent. In small forest-fringed villages such as York, Sussex and Kent, reminders of British colonial rule over this portion of the West African coast, let alone the centre of the bustling capital of Freetown, you’re never far from the buzz or beep of a smartphone demanding immediate attention.

Mr Moses preparing the boat for Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Escaping the rat race

Even in Sierra Leone, to escape the demands of our modern technologically-driven world you have to say goodbye to solid ground all together, and journey to what is often regarded as the remotest community in the region. There is no better tropical hideaway than the paradisaical Turtle Islands, and nowhere more isolated. There is no cold beer for god-knows how many miles, which is just as well given how far the nearest hospital is, or how long it would take to reach it.

But most importantly for someone who spends much of their life in front of a laptop and beside a phone, in constant contact with the outside world, reaching the islands means a complete digital detox, with no plug sockets, electricity of any sort, Wi-Fi connection or television news; miles from the nearest mobile phone signal and relay tower. There aren’t any sundowners unless you bring them, no spa but the warm lazy waters.

As a result, heading to the Turtle Islands is unlike any normal getaway and rather more like undertaking an expedition, with everything we might possibly need, from tents to spare engines, drinking water to toilet paper – and everything in between – loaded carefully into the nooks and crannies of the canoe in preparation for my departure.

Boat in Bumpetuk,, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Alone at sea

Clambering inelegantly aboard, swinging my legs over her high sides, Moses settles down what is jokingly referred to as his ‘Nescafe’, a jar of frothy, largely alcohol-free, poyo palm wine, and starts up the 55 horsepower outboard motor with effortless expertise. The heavy canoe glides out from its natural beach landing to the deep blue yonder, and never has the phrase sounded so apt than now. It would be only a slight exaggeration to say that my life depends on the skills of a man I barely know; a thought that never crosses my mind on boarding an international flight.

With the pirogue’s hand-crafted bow pointed into the open ocean, so calm I can see the surface tension on the gentle swell, I realise for the first time the importance of Moses’ oft-mentioned compass. It is our only form of navigation save the sun. Without it, and without a mobile phone signal or satellite tracking, we could roam the Atlantic until our fuel and food ran out without finding either the islands or our way back towards Freetown. I slather on an extra layer of sunscreen.

The Turtle Islands lie, like a cartographer’s spilt biscuit crumbs, off the western tip of the much larger island of Shebro, roughly three-quarters of the way down Sierra Leone’s coastline. Approaching from Freetown across the yawning gap of Yawri Bay, there’s not another speck of land as Moses directs the boat with what turns out to be pinpoint accuracy and nothing but dead reckoning, his compass and years of experience plying these same waters in search of coota, grouper and snapper. We’re as alone as the butterfly we incongruously pass hours after our last sighting of Africa’s great bulk.

Flag, village and huts on Bumpetuk, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Holy island

‘Hoong!’ Moses eventually declares with satisfaction, taking another swig of his palm wine. With the rising heat haze I can hardly see anything of the smudge that has appeared on the horizon, and it takes us a full fifteen minutes more before my landlubber’s eye catches my first real sight of the island. Sacred, it is forbidden for anyone to set foot on Hoong except the initiated men of the local secret society. Women are not even allowed to gaze upon it, turning away or covering their heads with wax cloth wraps or towels especially brought for the purpose.

Without a single tug on his hand (or should that be foot) line, Moses cuts the engine, allowing us to drift beside a local boat of gently perspiring Turtle Islanders. As adept on the water as on dry land, their toes splayed, their balance unaffected by the motion of the bay, they bob in the waters where the shallows around the islands drop to oceanic depths. Yet the sea bottom is just a foot or so beneath the keel in places; we’re arriving at the lowest tide of the month, on the new moon. I’ve never understood the need for moon phase information in diaries until this point in my life.

We are eyed by a large hawk glissading effortlessly above us looking for a meal as much as Moses and myself. We barter three good-sized fish – our dinner finally sorted – cold from the luxury of their onboard ice-box for a single precious 1.5-litre bottle of far-from-cool mineral water.

Moses skilfully manoeuvres our pirogue around the shallows at the lowest possible speed to prevent our stranding. To me, it seems beyond impossible without the technological help of a well-calibrated radar system or depth gauge, but Moses knows these waters. Sometimes the growing sandbanks are signalled by unusually smooth patches of water, while at others they are denoted by fierce waves breaking as if on a beach. Before now yachts with far more impressive navigation systems on board than Moses and his compass have been caught-out and almost sunk.

Boat approaching Bakei, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Making landfall

Beyond Hoong we approach the much larger and more welcoming Bumpetuk, the second of eight largely untouched islands that make up the group, then Chepo, Mut, Sei and Bakei, my day’s final destination. If I didn’t know better I would have thought Spike Milligan had come up with their names. I was promised cartoon versions of low desert islands rising out of pristine waters and comprising ‘two palm trees with a hammock strung between them’. I’m not disappointed.

On the beach at Bumpetuk a small village cluster around a hand-painted sign reading ‘Harbour fee 50,000 Le’. Surrounded all around by tall coconut palms, others lie fallen at the water’s edge, a reminder that these islands are slowly and constantly shifting sandbanks in the Atlantic shallows and nothing more.

Boats, village and huts on Bumpetuk, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Our first landfall however isn’t the ‘harbour’ of Bumpetuk but the yellow sands on the edge of the protected horseshoe-shaped bay of Bakei, where we pick up Alpha, the local harbour master. It’s more a matter of etiquette than necessity, in a culture where respect for roles within the community are vital. “It is custom here to shake hands with the harbour master,” says Moses simply.

Alpha presents me with three coconuts, cut from the heights of the palms, still green and meant for drinking the deliciously-refreshing water within than eating the thin lining of flesh, adding a digestif of sorts to my growing meal. He guides us the short distance across the mouth of the horseshoe lagoon to the basic palm-thronged shelter where we are to set up camp. The tide is now so low we all but abandon the boat in the mud, laying the anchor uselessly beside it in anticipation of the incoming tide.

Island idyll

The sandy loams that make up Bakei are adorned with low scrubby plants that look to be suffering from the intense heat reflecting back up from the water’s surface. There is none of the breeze of Yawri Bay, and it’s impossible to walk barefoot on the sand for the heat it emits as I explore the nearest end of the island. As I do so, Moses refloats the boat, raising the anchor on the hunt for that still-elusive catch. Crabs, larger than any I have ever seen, scuttle about the narrow width of sand between the shrubs and the waves, dispensing eggs with celebratory waves of their pincers to the coming of the new moon. Turtle tracks run up another beach to the high tide line.

Crabs on Bakei, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

I don’t see another soul and have already forgotten about deadlines, those emails I didn’t quite have time to send, and thoughts of uploading jealousy-inducing images onto social media.

On the off-chance, I test for a phone signal – needless to say, there isn’t one. My mobile is a useless frippery from another, less boisterous but more expecting world.

Village on Bakei, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

There is so little breeze that come nightfall I manage to keep an unprotected candle alight. The only other sources of light to be seen are the distant flashes of lightning, a dusting of stars more immediately above me, and the fleeting LED shine of Alpha’s torch from the opposite side of Bakei’s bay.

Mr Moses on the boat in Bakei, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Village life

A thin layer of cloud builds up overnight, making it almost chill the next morning, and the woodwork of the boat is wet.

“Did it rain last night?” I ask Moses.

“No, it’s snow” he says, using the Krio term for dew. “The snow here is not like Freetown.” But then nothing is.

Moses points the boat’s bow in the direct of Sei’s contrasting snow-white sands. The waters have a mirror-like sheen to them. Simple huts with walls of plaited palm-frond matting and roofs of unplaited fronds cluster around the beach.

The island’s children gather around, in gentle competition to be the ones who take hold of my hands. They pull the skin from my arms as they stroke the hairs on them. Most of the scattered population of the islands have little contact with the outside world; I’m an exciting interlude into a normal island day. As an elder sister struggles to carry a heavy toddler towards me; he bursts into uncontrollable tears. At the centre of the village, teenagers are bunched around a transistor radio, their only constant connection with the world beyond their islands as if the president in distant Freetown is about to declare an end to all work. But rather than a presidential decree, it’s the midweek football.

“You like football? You should support Liverpool” I’m told. They look disparaging when I say I follow Crystal Palace, the south London side, instead.

Back in Yawri Bay I count thirty local fishing boats, bedecked with fluttering flags like bunting. The arched back of a dolphin cuts through the currents to one side of them. We greet each in turn with a broad wave of an arm as they cut a path perpendicular to our own. Despite their presence, Moses’ bad luck holds, and he’s forced to pull in his line empty-handed once more as my mobile phone kicks back into life.

Mr Moses on Sei island, Turtle Islands, Sierra Leone — © Ian Packham

Ian visited the Turtle Islands with the team from Dalton’s Banana Guest House, based on Banana Island on the Freetown peninsula.

Namibia – On safari with my kid

It’s a familiar ritual to anyone who has camped at Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park in Namibia in June; it takes some effort to hammer your tent pegs securely into the hard, chalky ground, but it’s worth it when the wind blows. Our toddler, Sanne (18 months old), had seen us pitching our tent at the Waterberg Plateau campsite two nights before and she knew the drill, despite the hammer weighing almost as much as her. With each thwack, she kicked up a swirling puff of rose-tinted dust, then looked at us with a proud smile. In the distance, a black rhino ambled down for a drink at the waterhole.

We were six days into a month-long trip with friends through Namibia, and so far their toddler and our Sanne were handling the travel like seasoned pros. They were glowing with the fresh air, and full of curiosity about each of the new places we’d visited so far: Phuduphudu and Kalahari Rest Camp in Botswana, and the Waterberg Plateau in Namibia. After Etosha, we would make our way via Buschberg Guest Farm to Brandberg, Swakopmund, Spitzkoppe and Erongo, before heading home on the Trans-Kalahari Highway – a round trip of about 7,000 kilometres.

Namibia had been a logical choice for an extended camping trip. It’s malaria-free and full of wildlife and wild open spaces. It’s easy to get around and more beautiful than you can imagine.

Sunset at the Okaukuejo waterhole, Etosha National Park © Annemarie du Plessis (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

As we watched a second black rhino stroll down for a drink, we knew that our instincts had been right; having kids is no reason to avoid the wilds of southern Africa. In fact, it’s just another reason to go. At each stop, we would smile as Sanne and her friend Josh (20 months old) helped pitch the tents or unfold the camp chairs, absorbed in the logistics of camp making and the novelty of a familiar-but-new home for the next few nights. They filled every minute of every day with an endless enthusiasm that allowed us to experience the fun of camping and glimpse the wonders of Namibia’s wildlife and landscapes through their eyes, as well as our own.

Here are some of the highlights from our month-long road trip through Namibia.

The Waterberg

The Waterberg Plateau campsite in the Waterberg Wilderness, east of Otjiwarongo in northern central Namibia, was a brilliant find. There were rocks to climb, sand to dig in and hikes that are short enough for independent little legs. The private nature reserve borders the Waterberg Plateau Park, but there is no dangerous game around the campsite, making it a fun and safe area to explore on foot.

Arriving late, we got the last of the camp’s eight spots and in the morning headed out to hike one of the five demarcated trails that start at the camp. The views over the Omaheke plains towards the flat-topped mountain that gives the area its name is spectacular, and we took regular stops to drink them in and to examine ant trails and stones and spiderwebs.

Etosha

The beautiful location of Okaukuejo with its large campsite, nests full of sociable weavers and its waterholes made it an easy place to spend some quality time out of our vehicles. Our delight in the spectacular wildlife that came down to the camp waterhole to drink was magnified by the joy on Sanne and Josh’s faces as they spotted anything from elephants to springbok. They especially loved the creatures that came out after dark: black-tailed tree rats, resident white-faced scops owls, black-backed jackals, various scorpions and more, which provided hours of spotlight fun for everyone.

Halali was the least child-friendly of the camps, and we had a few awkward sundowner moments on the camp’s spectacular viewing deck when the kids’ chatter was met with frowns. Its honey badgers were fascinating, but bigger and bolder than the kids, so we had to pay extra attention to their movements after dark! We did drives during nap times (heat wasn’t an issue as we were travelling in winter) and had some of our most rewarding sightings at its floodlit waterhole after Sanne and Josh were asleep; rhino bulls fighting, a leopard making a kill, and thirsty elephants drinking from moonlit pools, then fading into the inky darkness.

Namutoni has a great network of shorter drives around the camp, and we enjoyed spending time in the big, cool swimming pool and on the green lawns around the campsite (Okaukuejo and Halali also have pools). We had our best lion sightings here, and the kids loved listening to them roar in the early hours of the morning and then setting out with flasks of hot chocolate to find them. We also spent a very relaxing morning at Mokuti Etosha Lodge. They serve a killer buffet breakfast, have an interesting snake park, and beautiful gardens to wander around.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *An excellent lion sighting in Etosha* © Dianne Tipping-Woods; 2) *The Namutoni campsite* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts; 3) *The Halali campsite’s spectacular viewing deck* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts; 4) *The entrance to Namutoni campsite* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts; 5) *The Namutoni campsite pool. Okaukuejo and Halali campsites also had pools for the kids to enjoy* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Brandberg

The drive from Etosha to Brandberg, which is near Uis in the heart of Damaraland, winds through dramatic scenery, so it was no surprise that the sprawling campsites at Brandberg White Lady Lodge were spectacular. The area is rural, with free-roaming wildlife and domestic animals sharing the same space, so we had to dodge donkey and elephant dung when picking our tent site.

The thick desert sand provided hours of entertainment for the kids, whose bucket baths with the fire-like mountain in the background, must rate amongst the most spectacular in the world. They also frequently wandered off with the resident meerkat to dig holes in the ground.

While there, we made the short drive to the famous White Lady rock painting site. The hike through a relatively lush and fragrant valley was well worth it as our knowledgeable guide talked about the 2000-year-old paintings (with the pigments bound with blood serum, egg white and casein), the fascinating biodiversity (about 16% of Namibia’s plants are endemic) and history linked to the granite monolith, which is Namibia’s highest mountain.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *The campsite area at Brandberg White Lady Lodge*; 2) *The small fauna were of great interest to the kids*; 3) *A grey go-away-bird in Brandberg.* All photos © Dianne Tipping-Woods

Swakopmund

After a desert drive from Brandberg to Swakopmund, we stayed in the bungalows at the municipal rest camp, an excellent value-for-money option in an often foggy Swakopmund. This vibey seaside city was lots of fun to explore with toddlers. We visited the aquarium and befriended creatures that thrive in the south Atlantic’s chilly Benguela Current, did an historic walking tour, watched people fish from the jetty (built in 1904), played on the beach and in the icy surf, ate delicious local food at several good restaurants (including amazing cheesecake from the institution that is Café Anton) and shed some of the sand we’d collected in the desert, which was replaced with salt.

We also visited the well-curated museum, which is full of accessible info on Namibia’s fauna, flora, geography and history with some impressive, interactive contemporary displays. We also visited the playground next door and spent a morning looking for welwitschias – desert plants that are thousands of years old.

This took us through the ‘moon’ landscape just outside of Swakopmund, which we wished we had longer to explore. Next time, we’ll go with a guide to find the creatures that have made it their home. Another highlight was the trip to Walvis Bay to see the flamingos; a drive between endless dunes, a moody sea and then masses of pink birds!

Spitzkoppe Campsite

The Spitzkoppe is one of the most photographed mountain motifs of Namibia © Jaco Beukman (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)Spitzkoppe is a place of golden light and glowing rocks, with campsites amongst the most beautiful and private of any we have ever stayed at. The community camp feels like the land that time forgot. Scale and space distort and you feel yourself to be a tiny thing in a vast and ancient universe. Wraparound views and a sky of stars that you can almost touch made each hour in the camp a special one. We pitched our tents up against a rock face and lazed with lizards, lingered over sundowners on hot rocks and tried to fathom the fact that the dramatic granite rising from the desert is more than 120 million years old.

While we skipped the hardcore climbs and longer hikes (where you need a guide), there were plenty of shorter walks that were suitable for us with our toddlers in tow. They tackled them like little dassies (rock rabbits) and seeing their confidence taught us a thing or two about tackling challenges head-on.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *There were plenty of shorter walks at Spitzkoppe that were suitable for us with our toddlers in tow*; 2) *The granite at Spitzkoppe is more than 120 million years old*; 3) *It’s never too early to start learning about birds!* All photos © Dianne Tipping-Woods

The last part of our journey was spent high up at Erongo Plateau Camp in search of Hartlaub’s spurfowl, which we never found, although birding during the rest of the trip was excellent. What we did find was a stark beauty and a tricky hike that we somehow navigated with kids in tow. It was hot and dry and quiet.

Although there was nothing particularly child-friendly about the camp or the area, by then, Sanne and Josh were able to amuse themselves with nothing more than some sand, sticks and stones.

Erongo Plateau Camp with hiker and child, Namibia — Erongo Plateau Camp is situated in the heart of the majestic Erongo mountain range near Omaruru and offers numerous hiking trails for the adventurous © Dianne Tipping-Woods

Heading home

When our month was up, we’d covered less ground than we might have without kids, but I think we saw more. We did fewer activities, but our eyes were opened like never before, both to the places we visited, but also to our children.

They literally grew in front of our eyes as Namibia filled them with its colours, smells and sights. We grew too, as friends and parents and travellers. Each time we repacked or unpacked during the trip (shedding items as we went), we were reminded of just how freeing it is to travel like this, not only for us but also for our kids. For the most part, they were resilient, curious, enthusiastic and easy to please. Which, as far as travelling companions go, are pretty good qualities to have.

Children on safari: Tips from our trip

• Temper your itinerary to keep the distances small;
• Take less than you think you need, but don’t skimp on your medical kit;
• Don’t include too many structured activities;
• Pack bags of toys, books and games;
• Make sure the kids have binoculars also;
• Make sure everyone wears closed shoes at night – there are plenty of scorpions!;
• Take extra sippy cups and snacks that you can pull out when needed;
• Respect other travellers, but don’t apologise for your well-behaved kids;
• Give the children (yes, even the toddlers) regular campsite chores;
• Take extra moisturiser for winter trips, as the desert air is very dehydrating;
• Don’t worry about stocking up on food before your travel (fresh meat and produce was easy to get);
• In unfenced camps: A little common sense goes a long way. We avoided unfenced camps in areas where there is a high likelihood of having predators move through the camp. In sparse game areas, be vigilant and watch your children.

Medical and potential health issues
• Be proactive before you travel. Speak to your paediatrician about emergency medication you might need.
• Doing a CPR and basic first aid course is a good idea. Otherwise, be aware of potential dangers from snakes and scorpions and find out how the response to these is organised in the places you visit.
• Inform yourself about medical evacuation procedures, local emergency numbers and cellphone coverage. Often the people who run the places you plan to stay at are excellent sources of advice and information. They usually have kids or know people in the area that do.
• Let your medical aid know you’re out of the country, and understand what they cover and what they don’t. If you’re going really off the beaten track, consider a satellite phone.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Dianne Tipping-Woods

Dianne Tipping-Woods is a Hoedspruit-based journalist who tells stories about conservation, travel and development in South and southern Africa. Working for various international print and online publications, she writes about a wide range of issues and gets to explore some of the world’s most wild and beautiful places, sometimes with her two kids in tow. Endlessly inspired by the people she meets and the places she goes, every journey is a privilege and an opportunity to learn, grow and write!

Safari tips: Going on safari with kids

Kid with buffalo skull while on safari — © Christian Boix

Travelling with kids on a safari in Africa may seem like a daunting task. They can get bored very quickly, especially on long road trips, and keeping their attention and interest piqued about wildlife can become a tedious, exhausting and stressful task. However, with proper planning and armed with the knowledge of what your children enjoy, you can make a safari quite an enjoyable and memorable experience for the whole family.

Here are a few useful tips to consider when going on safari with kids:

• Have a bag packed full of entertainment for the kids for those flights and long drives. Colouring-in books, small games, books, and puzzles are some items you can include, as well as electronic devices such as cellphones (consider getting educational wildlife-related apps), iPads and mini DVD players – remember to have those fully charged and pack extra battery devices just in case. Don’t forget to pack headphones for each member of the family. Of course, once on safari, you want to keep the children away from electronic devices, and enjoying the outdoor experience.

• When looking for accommodation options, note that some lodges have age restrictions, or do not allow children at all. For those that do allow children, choose family tents or rooms that can accommodate the whole family. This way, you can keep an eye on the little ones.

Kid watching elephant while on safari — © Christian Boix

• If you can afford it, opt for a private vehicle for your game drives. Sharing a vehicle with other guests may cause some stress as your kids may lose their patience and could start disturbing other guests. With a private guide and vehicle, you can make the game drive as long or short as you wish, depending on your kids’ mood and interest in wildlife. Some camps require you to book a private vehicle if travelling with children, so make sure to enquire about this when booking your safari accommodation. Be very sensitive about others when travelling with your children, but never apologise for taking your children with you on safari – this is the best thing you can do for them!

• Always discuss with your children what they should expect to see on a game drive, and how they will probably need to be patient. Perhaps even turn the game drive into a game to see who spots the animals first. Choosing a safari in an area that has an abundance of general wildlife, where there will most likely be action around every corner, is a good strategy.

• If animal sightings are few and far between, direct their attention to the other wonders of the bush – unusual insects, spider webs, birdlife, interesting trees, termite mounds, identifying the tracks on the ground, etc.

• Speak to your children about dangerous animal sightings, and why they need to be quiet, stay seated and keep their limbs inside the vehicle. Be prepared for any extreme sightings, such as a kill, as this may frighten the little ones.

• Consider choosing camps and lodges that offer a variety of experiences, such as kid-friendly walking excursions into the bush, boat rides, hot-air balloons, horse riding, and quad biking. Camps or lodges that are fenced-in and protected from the wildlife will allow more freedom for your kids to roam about, whereas those open to the bush will restrict their movements to the living areas and bedrooms.

• Choose a genuinely child-friendly safari lodge or camp. Ask the lodge about specialist guides for children, ask them if they give families free private vehicles and ask about specific activities offered in the ‘kids club’. Often a lodge will have two or three smaller lodges associated with the parent property, and it’s quite common for one of those to be specifically aimed at children, so be sure to check.

Kid with large antelope skull while on safari — © Christian Boix

• Don’t forget about the downtime. With their regular routine not possible, and early morning and late evening game drives, your children will probably find themselves exhausted and hopefully, they will rest during the midday siesta time. Make sure you also take some time out to relax and sleep.

Kid with binoculars while on safari — © Christian Boix

• If possible, provide your kids with their own cameras (disposable is a good choice) as it will help them create their own memories and keep them engaged with what’s going on around them.

• Give them a bird book and a pair of binoculars to identify the birds that are easily seen around the camp. A checklist to tick off the animals seen is always fun, or ask the little ones to draw the animals. One of the things that can help to keep older kids interested is to sit them up front next to the ranger and asking them to be the “tracker”!

• Remember that wild animals can be dangerous – especially for children. Be sure to ask for advice about how to behave when in wild areas, and read 10 Points About Wild Animals.

Epic Kruger

Definition of epic: [adj. colloq.] Particularly impressive or remarkable; excellent, outstanding. ~ Oxford English Dictionary
The Kruger National Park in South Africa is a photographer’s dream destination when it comes to incredible wildlife sightings – with every sighting unique and unforgettable. From buffalo bulls aggressively going at each other at a waterhole and an incredibly magnificent elephant bull towering over the landscape to a python strangling its enormous prey and lions, giving you the proverbial death stare. These are the epic moments that Kruger has to offer, and fortunately, there are photographers out there who have been able to catch these jaw-dropping scenes on camera.
So, without further ado, we present the gallery Epic Kruger, which comprises of a selection of stunning photos taken in the Kruger and Greater Kruger areas, along with some thoughts from the photographers themselves. And they’re not just any photos; they’re some of the special photos submitted during our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions.

? “Before the storm” – a lone elephant bull in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“I took this photo of an elephant bull standing on a slight hill using a wide-angle lens. A storm was brewing in the distance, which created a rather spooky effect.” ~ Annemarie du Plessis

? “Lioness with one eye, still a fierce warrior” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Garry Mills (Instagram/Millsgarry) (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“The water levels were low around this time of year, so you did not need to drive too far in search of wildlife as the animals would soon turn to the few permanent water sources to drink. At one of the waterholes a few old dagga boys turned up just after 8 am, and true to their grumpy nature the one bull aggressively launched at the other bull when he entered the water!” ~ Renata Ewald

? An African rock python kills an impala in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Jennifer Kucherawy (Photographer of the Year 2018 Website Favourite winner)

? A male lion in the twilight of his reign in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Craig Hayman (Photographer of the Year 2016 Finalist)

“Dramatic composition reigns supreme in this evocative black and white image that captures one of Africa’s most regal predators in a natural, rugged state.” ~ Craig Hayman

? Queleas cover the sky at sunset in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Rob Keulemans (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This is a rather gruesome sight of lions squabbling over one little zebra kill.” ~ Sibyl Morris

? African fish eagle flying away with a fish in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Fanie Heymans (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“While travelling from the airport to our photographic safari destination, we took a small detour on a well-known loop when suddenly this massive elephant bull appeared out of nowhere. He was so gracious and not bothered about our presence at all. While he was walking, the perfect side profile shot presented itself for this amazing capture. It was truly amazing to see this tusker in this area just going about his daily routine.” ~ Bernhard Bekker

? “Trio of Kings” in Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Christof Schoeman (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“Three old brothers walk together – a formidable coalition moving into unfamiliar territory.” ~ Christof Schoeman

Find out about Greater Kruger or Kruger National Park for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Biologist questions science behind leopard trophy hunting quota

Leopard with safari vehicle and guests — Maxine guiding during a sighting of a female leopard © Maxine Gaines

Opinion post: Written by Maxine Gaines, wildlife biologist

When the government announced in 2015 that it was placing a moratorium on the hunting of leopard in this country, I was proud to be a South African. Science had revealed that leopards were in decline across most of their range and that the South African hunting quotas at the time were based primarily on “thumb suck data”. Most scientists insisted that there was not enough population data available on leopards to justify the hunting quotas at the time or any hunting quota for that matter.

The moratorium was short-lived though. After only two years of no leopard hunting, we now have apparently accumulated enough population data to reinstate a hunting quota and lift the zero quota. I find this very hard to believe for such a cryptic species. The intent was already there in 2017, after only one year of the zero quota. The DEA, on the 8th of February 2017, placed a notice in the Government Gazette (No. 40601) entitled “Draft Norms and Standards for the Management and Monitoring of the Hunting of Leopard in South Africa for Trophy Hunting Purposes”.

Members of the public and all interested and affected parties were invited to lodge their written comments or objections to the proposed draft. They were given 30 days to do so. I immediately got working on an objection based on prevailing science and lodged this within the required time frame. I received absolutely no response to my objections – other than an acknowledgement of receipt, and this only after I kept emailing every day to insist that they acknowledge receipt.

I know that other organisations who lodged objections had the same response. I have repeatedly emailed the DEA in the interim, asking for an update on where they stood once objections had been heard, but my emails were ignored.

Eventually, at the beginning of this hunting season, after no response from Edna Molewa or Ms Makganthe Maleka, or SANBI, I included a Ms Magdel Boshoff in my mail enquiry and I finally got a reply, saying that she had forwarded my mail to Mr Mpho Tjiane and Ms Malepo Phoshoko – as their functions related directly to the leopard hunting quotas. Thank you Ms Boshoff.

I waited expectantly but was disappointed. The reply I got from Mr Mpho Tijane was as follows – quoted directly.

“Dear Maxine

There is decision on the quota for 2018. A decision will be made in due cause

Regards
Mpho”

Unenlightening and uninspiring to say the least.

My main objections summarised very briefly (and I am happy to send the entire referenced document to anyone who is interested) were the following:

1. The current leopard conservation status is of a population in decline and facing numerous threats, with increasingly disappearing and fragmented habitat. They are included in 3 of the 5 categories of species MOST vulnerable to extinction.

2. The proposed safe age (seven years old) to hunt leopard does not take into account later studies showing very high mortality due to infanticide. Infanticide would be worse in hunting areas where males in the prime of their lives are continuously removed.

3. Hunters have proven to be particularly poor at ageing and sexing leopards – and this was from clear photographs. Leopards in the wild are viewed at a distance, and often not from the best angle, which would hinder proper ageing. The exam used to test hunters’ abilities in this regard has some flaws.

4. Hunters have proven to be untrustworthy in terms of declaring if females were shot, and also have admitted their willingness to shoot females even if this is illegal.

5. Even moderate levels of hunting have been proven to be detrimental to large African felids like leopards and lions. Hunting of lion and leopard has been shown to cause declines in numbers in many well-known and supposedly well-managed hunting concessions AND the adjacent National Parks, in a number of African countries.

The quota of seven male leopards at this stage is a conservative one and applies only to two provinces – KwaZulu-Natal and Limpopo – but this is nothing to celebrate.

In 2009, researchers released a paper describing the Phinda leopard population in KwaZulu-Natal as “persecuted”. This population has recovered in no small part due to the efforts made by Phinda to change surrounding land uses from hunting to ecotourism. Previous hunting areas have been bought and converted to ecotourism, and other hunting areas that were won by the community in land claims have been turned over by the community to be managed by Phinda for ecotourism. This speaks volumes of Phinda’s community-based conservation ethic. Ask any Phinda guest, guide or staff member who has enough history to compare leopard viewing now at Phinda to what it was like 20 years ago, and you will hear only glowing reports. Visitors to Phinda now stand a good chance of seeing a leopard. The population is healthy and the leopards are relaxed and starting to trust the guides – to the point that they are very viewable. And this is great for ecotourism and leopard conservation in the area.

The reason for this change is, in my view, clearly related to the absence of hunting on the surrounding properties. Nothing else has changed. Poaching still occurs, the demand for leopard skins by the Shembe church and for other traditional uses is still high. But hunting has come to an end in the area and the leopard population has flourished.

And now, hunting is to be reinstated…

I for one would like clarification from SANBI as to who exactly the scientific authority was that gave the go-ahead to reinstate hunting. “The Scientific Authority” is a very vague label given to a number of different interested and affected parties and stakeholders, and I feel that we have the right to know who the scientists are who OK’d this so that we can look at the specific research directly and challenge it appropriately and scientifically. I know that Panthera has been very involved in this research, and probably formed part of the Scientific Authority, but I really believe that we need access to all the information and data relating to this decision so that those of us who care about leopard conservation in South Africa and who have an opposing viewpoint can challenge this decision in the appropriate manner – with science.

Read the original news story – SA reinstates leopard hunting quota – 7 to be shot this year – here.

SA reinstates leopard hunting quota – 7 to be shot this year

In a surprise move, South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA) has issued a quota of seven male leopards for trophy hunting during 2018.

The quota allocation is five from Limpopo Province and two from KwaZulu-Natal, and the leopards must be male and older than seven years. The hunting of leopards can only be undertaken in ‘specified hunting zones’, where scientific evidence indicates stable leopard populations.

This after zero quotas were issued for 2016 and 2017, as a result of an alert at the time by the country’s Scientific Authority that the number of leopards in the country was unknown and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species. This latest announcement by DEA was made based on a new determination by the same Scientific Authority that leopard populations in certain areas can now sustain a trophy hunting quota.

The Scientific Authority was established to assist in regulating and restricting the trade in threatened or protected species. In making this new recommendation, the Scientific Authority took into account data and reports from the National Leopard Monitoring Project and other inputs on leopard numbers.

As part of an ongoing adaptive management approach, the Scientific Authority concluded that a small quota, restricted to older males and coupled with the implementation of appropriate management systems as set out in the draft Norms and Standards for the Management and Monitoring of the Hunting of Leopard in South Africa for trophy hunting purposes, would not have a detrimental effect on the survival of leopard in the wild.

DEA further noted in their announcement that quotas may change every year depending on the updated available scientific information on the status of leopard populations in South Africa.

Read Biologist questions science behind leopard trophy hunting quota – written by a wildlife biologist who questions the science behind the leopard quota decision.

Researchers use “biological passport” to monitor whale sharks – Earth’s largest fish

Whale shark with trevallies and pilotfish in Tanzania © Clare Prebble, Marine Megafauna Foundation and University of Southampton

Media release from the Marine Megafauna Foundation (MMF)

Whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, roam less than previously thought. Local and regional actions are vital for the conservation of this globally endangered species moving forward, according to a new study by researchers from the Marine Megafauna Foundation, University of Southampton, and Sharkwatch Arabia. Their findings were recently published in the journal Marine Ecology Progress Series.

Whale shark at Mafia Island, Tanzania © www.simonjpierce.com

Previously, genetic research indicated that whale sharks mixed within distinct populations in the Indo-Pacific and Atlantic Ocean, respectively. This new study used stable isotope analysis, a biochemical technique, to demonstrate that whale sharks feeding at three disparate sites in the Western Indian Ocean (Mozambique and Tanzania) and the Arabian Gulf (Qatar) rarely swim more than a few hundred kilometres north or south from these areas.

“Whale sharks are amazing swimmers, often moving over 10,000 km each year, and they can dive to around 2,000 metres in depth. Biochemical studies tell us more about where they go and what they do when they’re out of our sight”, said Dr Clare Prebble, who led the research as part of her PhD project at the University of Southampton.

Whale sharks feeding at Mafia Island, Tanzania © www.simonjpierce.com

The researchers used isotopes of nitrogen and carbon that have similar chemical properties, but vary in their atomic mass. Ratios between the heavier and lighter isotopes of these elements vary naturally across different habitats in the marine environment. For example, more of the heavier isotopes are found in near-shore environments than offshore.

These ratios stay consistent as they are passed up through the food web, from tiny marine plants to top predators, and therefore provide a record of the animal’s feeding and movement behaviours. Stable isotope analysis thereby provides a ‘biological passport’ for whale sharks.

Whale shark in Mafia Island, Tanzania — Whale shark at Mafia Island, Tanzania © Clare Prebble, Marine Megafauna Foundation and University of Southampton

Electronic tags are commonly used with marine animals to record their movements and diving behaviors. However, the challenge of keeping them attached to a large shark, while minimising disturbance, has meant that only short-term deployments (weeks to months) have been possible. This study used tiny samples of skin tissue from wild, free-swimming whale sharks. These small pieces of skin, collected over 2-3 years at each location, were sufficient to reconstruct the sharks’ movements and feeding preferences over the weeks and months prior to sampling.

Values of both carbon and nitrogen stable isotopes differentiated at each site. To complement the biochemical analysis, the researchers also took photographs of the natural markings on each whale shark to identify and track individuals over a 10-year timeframe.

Every whale shark has a unique spot pattern, similar to a human fingerprint. The team recorded 4197 encounters with 1240 individual whale sharks within these three countries.

Only two sharks moved between sites, both swimming around 2,000 km north from Mozambique to Tanzania. Taken together, these findings indicate that there are limited movements between these major aggregation sites over months to years. These results have implications for the conservation of this endangered species.

“The best data available suggests that more than half of the world’s whale sharks have been killed since the 1980s. Although the Western Indian Ocean remains a global hotspot for the species, even the largest feeding areas only host a few hundred sharks. Our results show that we need to treat each site separately, and ensure good conservation management is in place, as the sharks may not re-populate if they’re impacted by people’s activities,” Prebble added.

Whale shark in Tofo, Mozambique © Clare Prebble, Marine Megafauna Foundation and University of Southampton

The study stresses the need to protect these filter-feeding sharks at the areas where they come together in numbers, particularly where human pressures are also present. Whale sharks are an incidental catch in coastal gillnets, which are frequently used in Mozambique and Tanzania. The Arabian Gulf is a huge oil shipping area where vessel strikes pose a major threat to the sharks when they are feeding near the surface.

“Whale sharks are fully capable of swimming across oceans, but it seems like the juveniles, at least, are choosing not to”, commented Dr Simon Pierce, Principal Scientist at the Marine Megafauna Foundation and a co-author on this study. “They like coming back to the same sites each year to take advantage of predictable feeding opportunities. Looking on the bright side, that emphasises that local protection can have a major benefit for the recovery of this endangered species. The rewards can also be felt locally, with whale shark tourism now worth over $100 million each year around the world.”

Whale shark with trevallies in Tanzania © Clare Prebble, Marine Megafauna Foundation and University of Southampton

Earlier this year, colleagues reported that whale sharks regularly visit Madagascar to feed, which has led to a growing ecotourism industry between the months of September and December. To date, none of the sharks identified in Madagascar have been seen outside that country, further reinforcing the results from this new study.

Dr Clive Trueman from the University of Southampton concluded: “Interestingly, most sharks found at these feeding sites are juvenile males of less than nine meters. To truly assess how populations are globally structured and distributed, we need to learn more about where the sharks go once they reach adulthood. They may well move out of our sight to feed and breed in deeper offshore waters.”

The study was supported by WWF Tanzania, Shark Foundation, Aqua-Firma, Waterlust, Maersk Oil Research and Technology Centre, Qatar Ministry of Municipality and Environment, PADI Foundation, Rufford Small Grants, and two private trusts.

Full report: Marine Ecology Progress Series, Prebble et al. (2018): Limited latitudinal ranging of juvenile whale sharks in the Western Indian Ocean suggests the existence of regional management units

Elephant saved by vets in Kenya after being hit twice with poison arrows

A stick props open the elephant's trunk to aid breathing — A stick props open the elephant’s trunk to aid breathing © The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust & Mia Dowson

Struck with two poison arrows, this 45-year-old bull elephant faced a slow and painful death without intervention. Luckily, he was observed limping through Tsavo National Park in Kenya by a pilot from The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (DSWT) – which operates ten de-snaring teams in the region – who called in ground teams to treat him. After a dramatic and successful operation that involved a helicopter, fixed-wing aircraft and numerous vehicles, he’s on the mend.

The elephant was initially observed late evening of 22 July 2018 as daylight was fading, making any operation to treat him at night too dangerous. Early next morning, DSWT pilots flew a Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) vet to the scene while ground teams prepared for the challenging operation in dense bush, which limited access and visibility for the rescuers.

The elephant is doused with water to keep him cool during treatment — The elephant is doused with water to keep him cool © The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust & Mia Dowson

The elephant was moved out of thick bush and into a clearing where he was darted by the vet from a DSWT helicopter hovering above, ensuring the team could have enough space and time to treat the elephant. Once sedated, the vet cleaned the animal’s first wound, cutting away rotten flesh destroyed by the arrow’s poison, before rolling the huge elephant over with a road grader so they could access the second wound on the other side of his body.

It took one hour to treat his wounds, and after administering long-acting antibiotics and a revival drug, the elephant was soon back on his feet.

Vets clean the sedated elephant bull's wound — Vets clean the sedated bull’s wound © The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust & Mia Dowson

Says Rob Brandford, Executive Director of the DSWT: “Without urgent treatment, this elephant would have died a very painful and slow death. As we celebrate World Elephant Day, we are reminded that every day across Africa, we are losing elephants to poachers and conflict with humans and that every individual matters.”

World Elephant Day, celebrated on 12th August 2018, aims to bring the world together to help elephants and raise awareness of the threats facing the species. An aerial census estimated Africa’s elephant population to be around 400,000 individuals, with 144,000 elephants lost to ivory poaching and habitat destruction in less than a decade.

The elephant's wound is packed with green clay to aid healing and prevent infection — The wound is packed with green clay to aid healing and prevent infection © The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust & Mia Dowson

Tsavo National Park is a safe haven for Kenya’s wildlife and home to more than 12,000 elephants – Kenya’s largest single population. Safeguarding this wilderness in support of the Kenya Wildlife Service is The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, East Africa’s oldest and most pioneering conservation charity. Their operations, which include de-snaring teams, aerial surveillance and a sniffer dog squad, patrol to stop wildlife crimes in the protected area, prevent habitat loss and work with communities to prevent human-elephant conflict – a growing threat to elephants across Africa. They also operate five mobile veterinary units across Kenya in partnership with the KWS, including in Tsavo.

Arrows and spears can be used to kill elephants for their ivory, but are also used by communities to protect themselves and their property when elephants leave protected areas in search of food. It is unknown how this elephant incurred his injuries.

Adds Rob Brandford: “Humans are the root cause of so many threats facing elephants. Veterinary initiatives are one of a plethora of solutions we have in place to save this magnificent species”.

The elephant awakens after the revival drug is given © The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust & Mia Dowson

Video: South African rhino doing circus tricks in Russia – what’s next for our wildlife industry?

Screenshot showing the white rhino in a Russian circus. — Screenshot from a video showing Mafa the white rhino in a Russian circus. Source: The Great Moscow State Circus YouTube page

Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

This appears to be how a (small) sector of South Africa’s respected and burgeoning wildlife conservation industry is now monetising their investment into ‘conservation’. A two-ton white rhino, sold from a South African farm, is being forced to perform tricks at Russian circuses. Mafa the rhino’s subjugation and capitulation to the life of circus pony with painted face and bejewelled ankles has been widely criticised on social media. And, bizarrely, some even support this circus act, with one individual even suggesting that this is OK because the rhino gets to ‘avoid poacher bullets’ (yes, actual reasoning on a social media comment stream).

The video clip below, from the Russian State Circus, shows the rhino being made to perform acts like sitting, balancing on a tiny platform and having the trainer climb onto its back while the rhino plods around the ring. The footage sees this massive creature flinch as his master brandishes two whips – clear indication that the whip plays a role in the rhino’s ‘training’. Imagine how much cruel persuasion is required to force this huge wild animal to perform such unnatural acts, and within such a crowded, noisy environment so far from his natural home range.

Mafa is from South Africa, one of many rhinos bred for ‘conservation’ purposes. Other rhino monetisation strategies include trophy hunting and of course the harvesting of rhino horn for sale to people from the Far East, who believe that the horn (made of keratin, the same substance as human hair and nails) will cure all sorts of ailments (including cancer), and uplift their social status. All of these bizarre malpractices are loudly defended by some as being all about saving rhinos from extinction in the wild. Go figure. Apparently having rhinos perform circus tricks is now also OK. We know that the same people also justify the farming of lions under appalling conditions for their bones, taking new-born lion cubs from their mothers and having tourists molest them before they are forced in their adolescent years to walk with the same ilk of tourist – and finally being shot from close range in a small enclosure (‘canned’ hunting). And then there is the display of wild-caught elephants in small cages in China – apparently also OK, as this too is apparently in the name of conservation.

So, what’s next? I do not see any scenario being rejected, so long as someone makes money and the term ‘sustainable utilisation’ can be loosely attached.

White rhino in Russian circus — Screenshot from a video showing Mafa the white rhino in a Russian circus. Source: The Great Moscow State Circus YouTube page

Surely the vast majority in our highly respected and successful wildlife conservation industry needs to say enough is enough? Does this next level abuse of our wildlife not embarrass the industry and make a mockery of its noble cause? Is it not time for industry leaders to stand up and be counted?

If you feel that this next level monetisation of our wildlife is not a true reflection of your industry, stand up and say so. Shout it out from the rooftops! If you feel the opposite, then let’s hear from you. My team will gladly publish your opinions and thoughts.

Rhino with handler standing on it in Russian circus — Screenshot from a video showing Mafa the white rhino in a Russian circus. Source: The Great Moscow State Circus YouTube page

Watch the video below from the The Great Moscow State Circus YouTube page

Where have all the chameleons gone?

A flap-necked chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by the road — A flap-necked chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) rescued from the side of the road © Tyrone Ping

So what really has happened to all the chameleons in South Africa? This is a question you’ll often see pop up all over social media when someone posts a photo of one either in the garden or whilst on holiday in places such as the Kruger National Park. Many people are quick to respond with: “When I was growing up we used to see chameleons ALL the time”.

That may well be true, although 10, 20 or even 30 years ago people did spend a lot more time outside than they do now. Children played outside, climbed trees and came home when the streetlights turned on. In contrast, many people spend most of their time behind a desk, in an office, and you’ll find children stuck behind a multitude of screens.

Before we begin, there are some positives: If you know where to look, what to look out for, and know the habits of these miniature modern-day dinosaurs, then it is not uncommon to find dozens of them in small patches of suitable habitat.

Baby southern dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion ventrale) in the Eastern Cape — A baby southern dwarf chameleon (*Bradypodion ventrale*) in the Eastern Cape © Tyrone Ping

A quick insight into the chameleons found in South Africa reveals that there are currently 19 described species: two typical chameleons (Chamaeleo) and 17 dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion) species.

Chameleons can be found just about anywhere in South Africa (where typical habitat still occurs) from coastal forests, grasslands, savannah, montane forests, fynbos, renosterveld, karoo scrub and even suburban gardens.

There are several factors which affect the chameleon populations throughout the country

Habitat loss and fragmentation is an obvious factor that affects most wildlife, so this is not strictly limited to chameleons. When acres of natural habitat is cleared for housing development, agriculture, or road construction, these animals, if not killed in the process of earth moving equipment or killed out of fear by the workers, attempt to flee but often have nowhere else to go.

Many people find chameleons crossing busy roads and sadly they rarely make it to the other side alive. With the clearing of natural habitat there is also the loss of prey which the chameleons need to feed on, and without adequate food sources these reptiles are forced to relocate and again are forced to cross busy roads.

A Setaro’s dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion setaroi) living amongst the tall grasses on a road verge — A Setaro’s dwarf chameleon (*Bradypodion setaroi*) living amongst the tall grasses on a road verge © Tyrone Ping

Domestic cats can have a crippling effect on local populations of chameleons as they make for easy prey. A single domestic cat can totally eradicate a population of chameleons in a suburban garden in a matter of months.

Suburban gardens generally made of up neatly manicured lawns, high walls and electric fences can pose as a threat to chameleons. Pristine, manicured lawns can create vast areas void of trees and shrubs which chameleons rely on to move around. Without green corridors of connected trees and shrubs chameleons are then forced to descend onto the lawns and become easy prey for a variety of animals (mainly cats and dogs). In addition, high walls (without vegetation) can prove to be too high for chameleons to traverse, and electric fences pose a risk of being electrocuted.

Many people do not like the idea of wild growing creepers as they may not be visually appealing, but these creepers and hedge rows provide the ideal habitat for these shy and secretive animals.

Pesticides and insecticides can have devastating affects on chameleons. Much like owls that feed on poisoned rats, a chameleon that unknowingly consumes insects that have been baited or sprayed with insecticides will suffer a similar fate.

Illegal trade of chameleons is a booming market in South Africa. For many years visitors to Sun City will have seen informal traders selling chameleons on the end of sticks, as well as tortoises. Although these informal traders are indeed a problem, it is important to look at the larger picture.

Large quantities of chameleons are collected from the wild and sold both locally and internationally. These indigenous chameleons are illegal to buy and when they are bought it is simply perpetuating a vicious cycle of supply and demand – so basically one is not saving or helping the species by buying chameleons from traders.

Fear and superstition, although not a major contributing factor to the decline of chameleons on a large scale, is still a factor. Many people (especially in African cultures) believe chameleons to be dangerous and are deadly or venomous – of course this couldn’t be further from the truth. There are many superstitions and beliefs that are associated with reptiles in general, and for chameleons some believe that they can shoot bolts of lightning from their eyes and are considered to be a bad omen, and are therefore senselessly killed.

A young flap-necked chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) on a fence © Tyrone Ping

What can you do to help?

• Plant small trees and shrubs which provide chameleons with adequate protection and perches which will allow them to move around freely. Also, by planting indigenous flowering plants in your garden you encourage insects – the primary food source for chameleons. If a garden is planted correctly chameleons can, and will, thrive in suburban gardens.

• Compost heaps are not only an environmentally-friendly way to recycle your food waste (and adds nutrients into your soil), but they also help with attracting scores of insect life.

• Avoid picking up chameleons you see in the wild and taking them home. They cannot live indoors on a pot plant and feed on flies (unfortunately these animals will slowly die if subjected to such a life).

• Do not support the illegal wildlife trade in chameleons – remember you’re not helping by buying these animals as it only contributes to the problem.

• Transform small, neglected areas by planting indigenous trees or shrubs and clearing alien vegetation, creating a habitat where chameleons can thrive.

Read more about chameleons here or visit Chameleons of South Africa. If you come across a chameleon in your garden or whilst on holiday, and would like to know what species it is, you can email your photos to contact@tyroneping.co.za for an identification.

A Knysna dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion damaranum) using its prehensile tail © Tyrone Ping

Celebrating Africa’s Culture

Africa’s culture is rich and diverse, and home to many tribes, ethnic and social groups. One of the key features of this culture is the large number of ethnic groups throughout the 54 countries. From the Himba in northern Namibia to the Surma in western Ethiopia, and the Maasai in Kenya and Tanzania, all cultures express themselves through their various traditions that are passed down from one generation to the next – from the arts, crafts, and music, to folklore, clothing, cuisine and language. Discovering the rich and splendid cultures Africa has to offer is usually at the top of anyone’s bucket list when travelling around the continent.
In this gallery, Celebrating Africa’s Culture, we take a look at some of the fascinating people and cultures of Africa through the lens of some incredibly talented photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions. The photos are accompanied by some interesting facts and thoughts from the photographers themselves.

“From a nation that was once so tragically divided, this image to me is a true testimony to the power of forgiveness.” ~ Nelis Wolmarans

“I captured this Samburu woman’s portrait during my visit to their tribe while I was working on a well-digging project to help supply water for the people who live there. While I was walking through the village, I saw a woman sitting at the entrance to a house. Our eyes met, and I was fascinated with her gaze and the energy which exuded from her.” ~ Vedran Vidak

A proud Maasai warrior stands by his hut as a summer storm brews on the outskirts of the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Andrew MacDonald (Photographer of the Year 2016 entrant)

The Maasai lead a semi-nomadic life, so their houses or inkajijik (Maasai word for house) are loosely constructed and semi-permanent. They are usually small, either circular or loaf-shaped, and are built by the women using mud, sticks, grass and cow dung.

A Maasai warrior jumps in Lolkisale, Arusha region, Tanzania © Ian Hanson (Instagram/thespurtrail) (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

“I stayed with the Maasai warriors for a week, and this man was my guide the entire time. He named the animals when I asked. He brought meds when I got sick. He drove the motorcycle when we needed to be somewhere. And when I approached him about an epic sunset photo… he jumped at the chance.” ~ Ian Hanson

“The Danakil Depression is one of the planet’s most inhospitable places; located in Ethiopia’s Afar region at more than 100 metres below sea level, it is the world’s hottest inhabited place, with temperatures rarely dropping below 40°C in winter and often soaring above 50°C in summer. Shade on the salt lakes is non-existent, the work is physically exhausting, and the pay is low. Once the salt has been mined, it is transported out on the backs of camels in long caravans.” ~ Marcus Westberg

The Maasai dress typically consists of red shuka (the Maa word for sheets traditionally worn wrapped around the body), adorned with beaded jewellery placed around the neck and arms. Both men and women wear these and may vary in colour depending on the occasion.

A food stall in the busy square of Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh, Morocco, © Miguel De Freitas (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

“I was walking around the Jemaa el-Fna square in Marrakech, looking for photo opportunities, when this stall caught my attention. The meticulous manner in which it was laid out and the pride the owner had in the display were something I just had to photograph. Asking for permission to take one quick snap, this stall owner accepted, even lifting a sample of his produce to get a better view. One shot was all he gave me time for, as it was quickly back to business. I was glad about the way the image came out with its beautiful, vibrant colours.” ~ Miguel De Freitas

“Children of the Surma tribe in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, Ethiopia, enjoy making outrageously creative headgear from fruits, flowers, and leaves gathered around their village.” ~ Robin Yong

“In the late afternoon sun at Lalibela, Father Abebe Sisay holds one of the ornate crucifixes of his church towards the light from the window. This image is the result of careful timing at Lalibela, for the sun only shines through this particular window at a certain time of the day.” ~ Inger Vandyke

“The intensity with which a Maasai warrior dances is incredible to watch as they enter a trance-like state, the rhythmical jumping and slow, droning hum of the singing make for a mesmerising show. I lay flat on my back, mere centimetres from the pounding feet of this warrior to capture a unique point of view to enhance the intensity of the leaps he was making.” ~ Andrew Aveley

Mursi girl with traditional ornaments in Omo region, Ethiopia © Enrique Lopez-Tapia (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“In southern Ethiopia, in the Omo Valley region, there live various tribes, including some of the most striking and surprising in Africa. Just looking at their eyes, you can sense their pride and dignity in belonging to their people, their culture, their land.” ~ Enrique Lopez-Tapia

“Each morning, the Himba women in Otjimazeva Village in Namibia undertake a lengthy beauty regime, whereby they crush small stones of ochre (a natural clay earth pigment) into a fine powder before adding it to a butterfat mixture to apply to their bodies.” ~ Ben McRae

“The Surma tribe of the Omo Valley in Ethiopia – a place where humankind probably began. The children and teenagers appear innocent and beautiful, with their ornate body paintwork and exotic head decorations made of flowers. The tribes of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley demonstrate the original and most beautiful place of tribal fashion.” ~ Robin Yong

Botswana’s Boteti

Shortly after arriving at camp, I was relishing a moment of pure bliss, washing off the heat and the dust under the best outdoor shower ever. From cold, foggy Cape Town to sunny Botswana. Filled with a sense of freedom and oneness with nature, I thought, “Can life get any better than this?”

Person watching sunset from pool in Meno a Kwena, Botswana — Serene sunset views from camp © Meno a Kwena

I think that a genie was tapped into my musings because a few seconds later loud sounds of splashing water interrupted the stillness. I quickly grabbed a towel and my camera and rushed out of the tent. And right there below me, a bull elephant was quenching his thirst in the Boteti River.

As I was admiring the graceful movements of this gentle giant, the realisation struck me of what an incredible privilege it is to enjoy such a special sighting from the veranda of my private luxurious tent. This was my introduction to this rustic camp called Meno a Kwena.

We now live in the selfie era, where the ultimate safari experience is determined by how close one can get to wildlife, to snap the perfect shot and post on social media. But isn’t the true essence of wildlife viewing being able to observe from a distance the animals behaving normally?

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *In the footsteps of a giant* © Ayo Gospodinova; 2) *A large bull elephant strolls across the salt pan fringes* © Ayo Gospodinova; 3) *The lodge overlooks the Boteti River, which provides some excellent wildlife sightings* © Meno a Kwena

Later, while I was sipping on a glass of ice-cold white wine, and munching on delicious veggie samosas, camp manager Justin Everingham told me the story of the camp.

In years gone by this area was frequented by legendary explorers and crocodile hunters. Later it became a mobile safari hotspot and eventually, in 2003, the foundations of this rustic camp were laid.

This is one of the few camps in the mostly flat Botswana that is perched on the edge of a rocky clifftop, providing amazing panoramic views of the river and wildlife below.

Sign post at Meno a Kwena in Botswana — All roads lead to Meno a Kwena © Ayo Gospodinova

“The [Okavango] delta is a unique oasis and a paradise, but you don’t get this view. To be up here, elevated, and to be able to look over across the Boteti River that has so many stories to tell, is a privilege,” said Justin.

He went on, saying that “there’s a spirit, a soul and an incredible atmosphere here. It’s the perfect way to get in touch with what the bush is all about – it’s about respecting nature from afar”.

He was echoing my earlier ponderings.

If you are looking for designer luxury, move on because this camp will not meet your needs. Instead, Meno a Kwena represents the authentic bush camp experience.

“The bushveld does not define by class; it’s not posh and prestigious. Raw, authentic beauty is often overshadowed by overt luxury – it loses its true essence,” said Justin.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *The verandah of my tented room* © Ayo Gospodinova; 2) *A room with a view* © Meno a Kwena; 3) *Fireside discussions, to end another wonderful safari day* © Ayo Gospodinova; 4) *The camp’s lounge are*a © Meno a Kwena; 5) *The camp bar and dining area* © Meno a Kwena

The essence of this place is to quietly observe the comings and goings of wildlife to the river below from your front-row seat – this is the “The Boteti River private show”.

You won’t get a personal butler or chef, but I can promise you that a bunch of naughty vervet monkeys might try to open your tent to check if you need anything early in the morning.

The beds are dangerously comfortable – you might be tempted to stay underneath the warm blankets and miss the early game drive. Luckily, I didn’t. But even if you do, there is plenty to do in camp.

After a delicious breakfast cooked on the fire, you can wander down to the floating hide to spy on the continuous wildlife parade, or relax in the pool with a view, or grab a great read from the library in camp.

**Left:** Everyone gathers around the fire to share stories © Ayo Gospodinova; **Right:** Breakfast is served © Pickford/Meno a Kwena

On one such quiet morning, I enjoyed exploring all the small details in camp, such as the old maps, photos, periodic decorations, and all the crocodile statues. I also took time to park off at the fire and get to know all the international guests and the friendly staff, hear their unique stories, and sip on the delightful beverages that flow so freely.

The camp is fantastic for children as well – it’s the perfect fortress or a spaceship where the little explorers can get to know Africa better. One evening I overheard a conversation between a Californian couple who came to Meno a Kwena with their seven-year-old twins. The kids loved the place so much that one day they will return to start a mokoro business.

My favourite aspect of camp is the staff – incredibly warm-hearted people with a true passion for wildlife and nature. My guides Kgabisi Bojosi and Mpaphi Dikaelo impressed me with their knowledge, but also made me feel as if I have known them for ages. The Tswana are known for their remarkable hospitality, but at Meno a Kwena one feels part of the family. Most of the camp team come from Moreomato, a nearby village, and they know this land like the back of their hands.

Communal area at Meno a Kwena lodge in Botswana — The camp communal area © Meno a Kwena

THE BOTETI RIVER

This camp would not be the same without the mysterious Boteti River, which is a magnet for wildlife in this otherwise desolate salt pan ecosystem. The river starts its journey as an offshoot of the Thamalakane River that passes through the town of Maun, en route from the Okavango Delta to its journey end at Ntwetwe Pan – part of the greater Makgadikgadi Pans system.

During a soothing boat safari on the river, Mpaphi explained that the name Boteti means “something mixed”, because of the ethnic diversity of the people living here.

Once, the Boteti was a life-giving force that provided a significant volume of water into the pans. The flow used to fill the Mopipi Dam, which is vital for a few diamond mines in the region and supplied the major grain-producing area around Sukwane with fresh water. And of course, the wildlife benefited from the fresh water.

**From left: 1)** The Boteti River, wildlife magnet and lifeline © Mpaphi Dikaelo; 2) The view of Meno a Kwena from the Boteti River © Ayo Gospodinova; 3) This wooden tool is used by the Khoisan people to indicate direction © Ayo Gospodinova

Between 1993 and 1995, the river started drying up – probably due to tectonic movements that deviated the annual Angolan floodwaters that feed the Okavango Delta (a 20-year cycle that researchers are still trying to understand). As a consequence, wildlife populations declined significantly. The management of Meno a Kwena started to pump water so that wildlife could at least survive the prolonged drought. Elephants, impalas and kudus were rubbing shoulders in the scrum for water, and large numbers of zebras died.

Human-wildlife conflict also escalated (read more about the human-wildlife conflict in the area here). Then, in 2008, the river suddenly started flowing again, and there were celebrations all around.

THE ZEBRA MIGRATION

The Boteti River also plays a crucial role in one of Botswana’s best kept secrets, the zebra migration – the longest land migration in the world. From April through to October / November – the dry season – this river is the only source of water in the region, providing an excellent stop for the migrating herds. The scale of the procession, and the optical illusions cast by so many moving stripes, can leave guests breathless. The camp name, Meno A Kwena, means “the teeth of the crocodile” – a possible reference to crocodiles snapping their teeth at the countless number of herbivores crossing the river at this point.

Zebras crossing Boteti River with safari vehicle in background, Botswana — Zebras on the Boteti River © Pickford/Meno a Kwena

THE PANS

One morning we embarked on a game drive to the Nxai Pans, which makes up part of the great Makgadikgadi landscape. Signs of lion spoor got my heart racing, particularly because a few of the guests had seen a large pride the previous day, but sadly for me, we did not see any of the big cats. We did, however, encounter giraffes, elephants, zebras, kudus, oryx, a variety of antelope, hippos and both black-backed and sided-striped jackals.

I have always wanted to improve my birding skills, and this was my chance. I made a list to show off to my colleagues once back in the office. It included kori bustards, red-billed buffalo weavers, long-tailed paradise whydahs, ostriches, secretary birds, southern yellow-billed hornbill, capped wheatears, lappet-faced vultures, lilac-breasted rollers and pale chanting goshawks!

We barely saw any other humans during our 12-hour-safari in the pans, and I felt like this wilderness belonged to me.

The Makgadikgadi Pans landscape is the world’s most extensive salt pan landscape. It covers an area of over 30,000 km² and is technically not a single pan, but consists of many pans – the largest of which are Sua, Nwetwe and Nxai pans. The Makgadikgadi Pans were once part of the old Makgadikgadi lake bed – an ancient lake that is believed to have covered as much as 80,000 km², and started drying up almost 10,000 years ago, leaving huge salt-encrusted pans behind.

The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park incorporates the western end of Ntwetwe. At its northern boundary, it meets the Nxai Pan National Park, separated only by the Nata-Maun Road.

Khoisan and guest sitting in salt pan in Botswana — Experience a salt pan sleep-out © Meno a Kwena

Some camps, such as Meno a Kwena, will take you camping on the pans at night, once the pans have dried up after the rains – an exceptional experience. The flat, moon-like surface of the pans is like one giant space auditorium, a natural observatory.

Another out-of-this-world experience in the pans is to venture out to Baines’ Baobabs or Kubu Island, home to gigantic baobab trees that loom over the flat landscape. I am a passionate tree-hugger and to be around these millennia-old baobab trees was a moment filled with awe.

This was a spiritual journey for me – it is believed that these trees assist with important decision-making. So if you have any life dilemmas, this is the place to be.

Baines baobabs in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana — Baines’ Baobabs are a cluster of millennia-old baobab trees in the Nxai Pan National Park © Ayo Gospodinova

WALKING WITH KHOISAN PEOPLE

I was eight years old when I discovered my passion for Africa, and by my teenage years, I was immersed in the rich culture and history of the continent. I was the weird cat in my home town school in Bulgaria – always talking about African tribes and rituals. And so the chance to rub shoulders with the Khoisan people was a dream come true.

I was beside myself when told by camp managers Tutalife and Matilda that I was to get ready for a walk with Khoisan people. And there they were – proud, humble people, with warm, genuine eyes. I sat as close as possible to them, absorbing every click, every gesture, every facial expression and every mimic. I felt profound and deep respect and connection with them from the get-go.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Khoisan people demonstrating their hunting skills* © Ayo Gospodinova; 2) *Food gathering in the bushveld* © Pickford/Meno a Kwena; 3) *Guests at Meno a Kwena can experience a bush walk with expert Khoisan guides* © Meno a Kwena

As they all gathered around the fire, dancing and singing, I sensed a deep longing in my heart. It felt like an endless wanderer who has finally come home. For a brief moment, while joining them in this ancient dance, I remembered something I had long forgotten.

We all kissed hands and said goodbye…

On the last night of this memorable journey, I was gazing at the stars, standing on this incredibly special piece of land that protects so many natural and cultural gems, whispering only one thing: “Thank you!”

ABOUT Meno a Kwena

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Meno a Kwena is a simple-but-stylish explorer-styled tented bush camp perched on a rocky clifftop above the Boteti River in Botswana, bordering the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. This elevated position allows for excellent wildlife viewing from your private verandah, as thirsty wildlife slakes its thirst at the river below. Meno a Kwena is a 90-minute drive from Maun, making it a good option for groups and families looking for that bush break.

Accommodation
Meno a Kwena is not about private butlers and air conditioning – it’s about making a genuine connection with nature and creating safari memories.

The canvas lounge and dining tents are decorated with old-world artefacts, books and trinkets – and a seemingly bizarre sculpted crocodile. The communal area includes a rocky swimming pool – perfect for cooling off as you watch the animals doing the same below you. Accommodation consists of nine classic tents, perched on a 100-foot high clifftop overlooking the Boteti river – and offering excellent ‘armchair’ game viewing. Furnishings merge classic safari with locally-woven fabrics and colonial-style furniture – simple fittings brightened by snippets of colour. All tents have fully-equipped en suite bathrooms, and there are two new family units, both with inter-leading tents, perfect for the kids.

Activities
Meno a Kwena offers game drives in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, complete with bush picnics and chilled drinks. Also on offer are cultural safaris and walks with the resident Bushmen, a cruise along the Boteti River by boat (water levels permitting), sleep out under the stars in the heart of the Makgadikgadi Pans and viewing the wildlife at the river at eye-level from the floating game-viewing hide.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Ayo Gospodinova

I am a traveller in time and space with a passion for Africa, wildlife and adventure! I was born and raised in Bulgaria, but my heart is moulded in the shape of the African continent. I came to Cape Town after I graduated with my Masters Degree in Journalism in the Netherlands and ever since day one I have been in love with the Mother City.

Elephants migrate despite boundaries and borders

Media release from University of Pretoria

A new study from the Conservation Ecology Research Unit (CERU) at the University of Pretoria (UP) set out to unravel migration in the world’s largest terrestrial mammal: the savanna elephant.

Migration, a term often associated with wildebeest in the Serengeti, is more common amongst large mammals than one might think, particularly in species that inhabit highly seasonal environments. A common assumption is that elephants also migrate but until now there has been a lack of evidence to support this notion.

“We know elephants can move long distances and that these movements often coincide with changes in season, but whether or not these movements were migratory was hearsay,” says Professor Rudi van Aarde, supervisor of the study and Chair of CERU.

The study, published last week in Scientific Reports, set out to answer a very simple question: Do elephants migrate? It turns out the answer is a bit more complicated.

Andrew Purdon, lead author of the study explains the findings, “Elephants are a facultative partially migratory species. In other words, only some elephants migrate, and if they are migratory, they may not migrate every year.”

The current study, which is one of the largest studies on elephant movement to date, comprised of movement data collected over 15 years from 139 savanna elephants distributed across seven southern African countries. Of the 139 elephants, only 25 showed migratory movements – to and fro movements between two non-overlapping seasonal ranges. Of these 25 elephants, only six migrated more than once during the period they were tracked.

Although it is unclear as to exactly why these elephants migrate, the theory suggests that benefits for migratory individuals include exploiting changes in food abundance or quality, accessing spatially limited resources, or even escaping competition from other individuals.

Map of southern Africa showing elephant distribution — Map of southern Africa illustrating the known and probable present-day savanna elephant distribution. The map colour represents a measure of primary productivity (the mean Enhanced Vegetation Index (EVI) over a 16-year time period from 2000 to 2016 © Andrew Purdon et al

Van Aarde elaborates, “It is plausible that during the dry season, elephants are restricted to habitats close to permanent water. At the advent of the rainy season, elephants are less restricted by water and are therefore able to move away from their dry season ranges towards areas that are greener, more productive, and that have fewer elephants.”

These results highlight the adaptive and flexible behaviour of elephants, but also their spatial needs.

Van Aarde continues, “If conditions demand it, elephants are capable of moving long distances to survive, as long as they have access to seasonal resources and the space to exploit it.”

Young elephant in herd in Africa, study about elephants and migration — © Rudi van Aarde

Although few elephants migrated, most of the protected area clusters that were studied harboured migratory individuals. This included elephants in Etosha National Park (Namibia), Chobe National Park (including the Linyanti region) and Moremi Game reserve (Botswana), Hwange (Zimbabwe), Kruger National Park (South Africa), North and South Luangwa (Zambia), and the Quirimbas National Park (Mozambique). However, almost all of the migrations moved beyond National Park boundaries (IUCN category I Parks) and 11 migrations crossed international borders.

According to Michael Mole, a co-author of the paper, “The one thing these protected areas all have in common is that they are large, often buffered by secondary protected areas, and are relatively un-fragmented. Migrations need space, some of these elephants’ travel over 100 km to reach their seasonal ranges.”

“The fact that elephants are still able to move such vast distances and beyond international borders speaks wonders and points to the amazing conservation initiatives employed by many governments and organisations striving to maintain functional space and connectivity between and around national parks.”

Elephant among a herd in the wild, study about elephants and migration — © Rudi van Aarde

Nowhere else is this clearer than in northern Botswana, where 15 elephants migrated. The national parks and surrounding protected areas (or Wildlife Management Areas) form a vast protected and mostly undisturbed heterogeneous landscape.

“At a time when long-distance dispersals are disappearing, this research underscores the importance of northern Botswana’s landscape to support some of the world’s longest large mammal migration,” explains co-author Dr Mike Chase, director and founder of Elephants Without Borders.

Nonetheless, the study begs the question. Are national parks big enough to adequately protect elephants?

Elephants that are moving beyond protected areas are at a higher risk of poaching and increasing human populations and habitat fragmentation are a reality threatening to isolate and fragment protected areas across Africa. So can more be done?

“We can start by gaining a better understanding of the spatial needs of large roaming species. Understanding the spatial requirements of species can help better inform the establishment of functional protected area networks,” Purdon says. “In this way, conservation areas across Africa can be large enough to effectively conserve large scale ecological processes such as migration.”

Full report: Scientific Reports, Andrew Purdon, Michael A. Mole, Michael J. Chase & Rudi J. van Aarde (2018): Partial migration in savanna elephant populations distributed across southern Africa

African elephant up close, study about elephants and migration — © Rudi van Aarde

Update on rhino translocation fiasco: WWF-Kenya admits mistakes were made

Dead black rhino in Kenya — One of the 10 black rhinos who died after a botched translocation in Kenya © Kenya Wildlife Service

WWF-Kenya has admitted that grave mistakes were made in the translocation operation in Kenya which saw 10 out of 11 critically endangered black rhinos die. The rhinos were being translocated from Nairobi and Nakuru National Parks to the newly-created sanctuary in the southeast of the country to offer a more secure location for the endangered species.

In a statement on their website, WWF-Kenya said that it will review the inquiry report into the rhino deaths and assess its processes as a donor.

“All of us at WWF are deeply saddened by the tragic deaths of ten rhinos following translocation to Tsavo East National Park by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) … The results of the inquiry released today by the Government of Kenya into the deaths stated that there were areas of clear negligence by KWS,” the statement read. “We recognise that grave mistakes were made in the translocation operation and as a result, we will be urgently reviewing the inquiry report and undertaking an assessment of our processes as a donor.”

For the translocation, WWF-Kenya made a donation of two Land Cruisers, three motorbikes, night vision cameras, tents, GPRS equipment, binoculars and boots.

18 Rhino horns displayed for the media — This photo shows the eighteen horns of the nine rhinos that died (before the tenth rhino died), displayed at Kenya Wildlife Service headquarters in Nairobi for the media to capture the images to disseminate to the public © Kenya Wildlife Service

Preliminary investigations into the rhino deaths showed that salt poisoning from the water may have been the cause.

“According to the inquiry team, the cause of all the deaths was due to multiple stress syndrome intensified by salt poisoning and complicated by the following conditions: dehydration, starvation, the proliferation of opportunistic bacteria in the upper respiratory tract, gastric ulcers and gastritis,” said Kenya’s Wildlife and Tourism Cabinet Secretary Najib Balala at a press briefing last week Thursday.

The eleventh rhino was in critical condition after being attacked by lions, but a recent photo posted on Kenya Wildlife Service’s Facebook page claims that it is doing well.

Black rhino in Kenya — The eleventh black rhino was attacked by lions and the only survivor of the translocation. According to KWS, it is recovering well © Kenya Wildlife Service

Balala said that six of the KWS officials involved in the deadly operation had been suspended due to negligence. He has since announced a new KWS Board of Trustees in a gazette dated July 31.

Rhino death in Lake Nakuru National Park

In a separate incident, Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) confirmed on Tuesday that a 12-year-old black rhino was killed on Monday by suspected poachers who escaped with two horns in Lake Nakuru National Park. A statement from KWS said that their rangers were still pursuing the suspected poachers, reinforced by the County security team, including the police.

“… Two rangers who were on duty have been interdicted pending investigations by the Directorate of Criminal Investigations (DCI) into their culpability. A post-mortem examination has been conducted on the 12-year-old male rhino to determine to exact cause of the death,” the statement concluded.

Poached black rhino in Kenya — A 12-year-old male black rhino in Lake Nakuru National Park was killed by poachers on Monday evening © Kenya Wildlife Service

The Extinction Business: Lion bone trade threatens world’s big cats

Captive-bred lions behind a fence — Boskoppie Lion and Tiger Reserve © EMS Foundation

The Extinction Business: South Africa’s ‘Lion’ Bone Trade is an investigative report by EMS Foundation and Ban Animal Trading that reveals startling and alarming factors that have a significant negative impact on worldwide big cat conservation. There is an evil network of traffickers and farmers who are using loopholes in CITES regulation, corrupt and slack government officials and a friendly wildlife trading environment in range states such as South Africa and markets in the Far East to enrich themselves and drive wild big cat populations to extinction.

The recent doubling of the annual South African lion bone export quota to 1,500 skeletons (from 800 last year) on the back of an interim study by a pro-trade economist, and the lack of transparency from both government and from the industry players themselves, makes this report essential reading. This post is a short summary of the 122-page report, and we recommend that you download the full report here.

Lion waiting to be slaughtered for his bones © EMS Foundation

The report suggests that the South African government’s strong support of this abusive industry, which has strong links with international criminal networks (including drugs, weapons, cars, prostitutes and human trafficking), fuels the demise of wild big cat populations by providing a legal channel for the trafficking of illegal big cat parts. Unchecked demand for tiger parts is seriously threatening the survival of wild tigers as well as leopards, snow leopards, clouded leopards, lions and jaguars – all of which are killed and traded illegally and sold to consumers as tiger. Tiger bones are used to make tiger ‘tonic’ wine, and other pseudo-medicinal and status products. Lion bones are now in some cases being valued above tiger bones.

The report goes on to question why the South African authorities seem to believe that this abhorrent and destructive industry is a sustainable and ethical option, when quite clearly this is not the case. There has been a tsunami of domestic and international criticism against South Africa, both locally and globally, with many conservation bodies, scientists and NGOs affirming that the government’s unfettered support for this globally rogue predator breeding industry cannot be supported scientifically or from a tourism, conservation, ethical or welfare perspective.

Lions and ligers at captive-bred lion farm in South Africa — In-breeding at Letsatsi la Africa in Free State, South Africa © EMS Foundation

There is no information in the public domain about how the lion bone industry works, a situation that needs to change. When the original bone export quota was legislated in South Africa, the authorities claimed the bone industry was merely a by-product of the trophy/canned hunting industry, and yet this report finds that 91% of the skeletons exported included skulls, and were therefore not sourced from hunters (who keep the skull as part of the trophy). Contrary to government claims, big cats are being commercially bred specifically for their bones, and lion mass slaughterhouses are now part and parcel of the industry. Also, since 2016 there has been a dramatic increase in poaching of big cats from captive environments in South Africa.

The report also highlights that the CITES permitting and enforcement process has substantial loopholes and management shortcoming that enable illegal wildlife trafficking. The report also suggests that South African CITES officials are issuing export certificates to known criminal syndicates. Amongst other shocking revelations, the report noted an average weight of 17,6 kg to 20,5 kg per lion for the skeletons exported – more than double the weight (9kg) of an average lion skeleton. In other words, the quota of 1,500 skeletons is more than likely being exceeded via the legal CITES channels because no weight quota has been implemented.

Siberian tiger park bone strengthening wine shown by Longying © EIA

The report discloses the main perpetrators of the lion bone trade, including international trading companies and traffickers from the Far East and a small band of South African bone Mafiosi – farmers and traffickers. The three countries taking the bulk of South African lion bone exports are Lao PDR, Vietnam and Thailand.

In short, the shady and poorly-managed legal trade in lion bones is fuelling the illegal trade in big cat bones by providing laundering opportunities. This overlap and merging of legal and illegal trade in wildlife parts is a toxic mix, when combined with poor management by the South African authorities and CITES loopholes. The revenue loss to the South African tourism industry is likely to be many times more than the value of revenue generated by this abhorrent industry – making this entire situation bizarre.

This thorough and detailed report recommends a zero quota for big cat body parts, a restriction of the keeping and breeding of big cats and improvement in animal welfare legislation. It also requests a forensic investigation and financial tracking of the industry, a stakeholder meeting to address the dismantling of the captive big cat industry and co-operation between the South African government and other relevant governments to dismantle international criminal networks. There is also a call to address CITES permitting and enforcement shortcomings and for more transparency, as regards these CITES processes.

Please download this report and invest your time in reading it. Keep the passion.

Lion in a small cage waiting to be killed — A miserable lion waits to be killed for its bones at the Wag’n Bietjie farm in the Free State, South Africa. Lions were held in very small crate for days before being slaughtered © Netwerk24 / EMS Foundation

Kruger – history and the future

It was a few years before the South African (Boer) War, in the late 1800s when President Paul Kruger (in office 1883 – 1900) was alerted by James Stevenson-Hamilton to the fact that a rapid extinction of various species of flora and fauna was taking place in South Africa. Unregulated hunting meant that wild animals were disappearing fast, and President Kruger had his eye on a piece of land he wanted to turn into a reserve.

Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the 1930s — A safari expedition in the 1930s © Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

MAKING A PARK

In 1898, he managed to declare the area between the Sabie and Crocodile rivers a game sanctuary and restricted hunting zone – which he called the Government Game Reserve, subsequently renamed to the Sabi Game Reserve. This was a time of great upheaval, during which President Kruger declared war on the British Empire, a war that ended in 1902.

In 1903, the area between the Sabie and Olifants rivers was added to the reserve, and by the end of 1903, the Shingwedzi Game Reserve was proclaimed – covering the area between the Letaba and Levuvhu rivers. The subsequent addition of further farms added to this vast protected area.

NCO's Steinackers Horse Komatipoort outside the big house in 1902, history of Kruger — NCO’s Steinacker’s Horse – a voluntary unit – at Komatipoort outside the big house (1902) © SANParks archives

Hunting was forbidden, but wildlife was still scattered and skittish. Staff were appointed, and James Stevenson-Hamilton became the first park warden. He became renowned for his dedication to conservation and famously disapproved of the tarring of the roads in the reserve, believing that people would then drive faster, resulting in the unnecessary deaths of wild animals. This man could see well into the future!

It soon became clear that the only way to secure the future of wildlife in the reserve was to establish it as a national park under the South African Union Government. Unfortunately, this idea was short-lived, as in 1914 World War I broke out, resulting in many of the staff leaving for active service. The poor state of the economy meant that most departing staff were not replaced.

With the lack of staff, the reserve suffered from rampant poaching. There was a single police sergeant at Komatipoort, to the south of the reserve, whose job it was to singlehandedly defend that section of the park. Also, soldiers returning home from the war hoped to be given the land for sheep farming.

At the time, it looked like the reserve would never recover, but by 1919 things started to improve. The staff numbers had increased again, and the discussion once again arose about the declaration of a national park.

Finally, on 31 May 1926, the National Parks Act was drawn up and passed by the Houses of Parliament, and the Kruger National Park was officially established.

WELCOME TOURISTS

The first ‘real’ tourists were welcomed to the park in 1926. Before that, in 1922, there were railway tours that passed through the reserve – the trains would stop for one day in the park to allow passengers to view the wildlife.

It was only in 1928 when the first tourist facilities were constructed in the park. Satara, Pretoriouskop and Skukuza (then known as Sabi Bridge) became the first locations for overnight huts. A tented camp was erected on the banks of the Luvhuvhu River in the far north of the park, but after being hit by floods, and swamped with mosquitos, it was concluded that it was, in fact, not the ideal location to bring tourists. Everyone involved was new to this, and through trial and error, the park began finding its feet.

Letaba Camp with old huts with fuel pump in 1930s, history of Kruger — Letaba Camp with the old huts and fuel pump in the early 1930s © SANParks archives

NO RULES

The late twenties seemed like a laid-back time in Kruger’s history. The only real rules that applied were to leave your firearms at home and pay your fee of one Pound at the gate. Other than that, you were a free agent. Guests weren’t even required to return to their cabins at night. Instead, they could camp out under the stars. Those early pioneering Kruger guests must have had a few adventures and stories to tell, what with such casual arrangements and the complete lack of communications. (Imagine the stress of an African safari without mobile phone apps and live updates to Instagram and Facebook 😉 )

The picnic spots in the park were unfenced, despite repeated warnings to the Board by warden Stevenson-Hamilton about the dangers involved. It was finally agreed that picnic spots would not be shown on tourist maps, and that warning signs would be put up.

By 1930, things were getting out of hand, and a few more rules were required to maintain order. Consequently, an official list of rules and regulations was drawn up. But with no funding to conduct patrols, they were rarely enforced.

THE TROUBLESOME BOARD

The historical evidence that exists on Kruger frequently mentions the epic fights that were had with the Board at the time, an assemblage of stooge-like characters. And, while curbing infrastructure in the name of conservation is a worthy cause, the Board didn’t seem to be committed to any particular ethical stance. Instead, they seemed to possess a staunch commitment to the slow turning wheels of bureaucracy.

One notable dispute took place over baths. A proposal was made that the camps had to be equipped with hot water, but the chairperson, Senator Jack Brebner, considered this a foolish luxury. The fight continued, and in 1933 hot water was granted on the condition that each guest paid a shilling per bath.

Being generally out of touch, the Board had to be convinced that the game rangers could not be expected to make the beds and bring the guests tea, while also trying to make sure the buffalo don’t go thundering through a neighbouring farm. Finally, much to everyone’s relief, no doubt, the Board agreed to hire more staff.

**Left:** *Aerial view of Satara camp in 1948.* **Right:** *The Lower Sabie camp in 1956.* Both photos © SANParks archives

PLANES, TRAINS AND CARS

Tourists in Kruger during the early days faced unique challenges, including the almost total lack of roads. Before 1928, there were only service roads, capable of low-volume traffic from Gravelotte and Acornhoek to the Portuguese border (modern-day border of Mozambique). The roads were not capable of carrying heavy tourist traffic.

In 1922, South African Railways offered tours via trains, and for a brief moment in history, air service was introduced, and then promptly cancelled. There were seven planes, of which six were legal, and they seated just two or three passengers at a time.

While there was a functioning airstrip at Mavumbye (near Satara), there was still the challenge of getting the guests from the airfield to the rest huts. In the 1940s the first official roads were built. There were several notable challenges to this construction process, including the thick vegetation that renders vast areas of the Lowveld reasonably inaccessible. Add to that challenge the shortage of finances and lack of manpower, and the situation became rather dire.

The Board dealt with these challenges by having the already overworked and underfunded game rangers help to clear the thick vegetation and make the roads.

This once again shows that a Kruger Park ranger’s remarkable forbearance and grit is never in question – then and now.

Eventually the full network of roads we know today appeared, and in the 1960s some of the roads were tarred. One has to wonder if we lost a bit of the ‘old’ Kruger when some of the dirt tracks were covered up. Stevenson-Hamilton most likely would have thought so.

Then and now at Shingwedzi Camp in 1935 and present — Then and now: Shingwedzi Camp in 1935 and present © SANParks archives

THE ‘GREATER KRUGER’

The 344,000 ha Greater Kruger is one of conservation’s biggest success stories, in that land outside the national park is incorporated into an overriding management strategy. Additional parcels of land (privately and community-owned) on the western border have been incorporated into the core protected area over the years, by the signing of management accords and the removal of fences. This ongoing process involves complex negotiations and varied land-use requirements and expectations, including photographic tourism rights and trophy hunting in some areas (there is no trophy hunting in the national park itself).

There are no longer fences between these reserves and Kruger, providing the animals with an opportunity to roam, thereby reducing pressure on vegetation and bringing back historical local seasonal wildlife movements in an east-west direction, compared to the north-south shape of the Kruger National Park.

Read more about the Greater Kruger and the related estimated economic benefits

Sabi Sand Reserve
The 65,000 ha Sabi Sand Reserve shares a 50km unfenced boundary with the Kruger National Park. When the Kruger National Park was declared in 1926, the original landowners of the Sabi Game Reserve were excised and had to settle for land outside of the national park. In 1948, 14 of these conservation-minded landowners met at Mala Mala and decided to join forces and create the first-ever private nature reserve in South Africa. The eastern fence of the reserve, bordering the Kruger National Park, was removed in 1993, making the Sabi Sand Reserve part of the Greater Kruger. Land use is for photographic tourism and private leisure use.

Lower Sabie aerial view, Kruger, 1948 — Lower Sabie camp aerial view, taken on 5th August 1948 © SANParks archives

Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR)
The 197,885 ha APNR is an association of privately-owned reserves that removed fences with the Kruger National Park in 1993 after operating before that as wildlife hunting and livestock farms. The reserves (which in turn are made up of multiple smaller properties) included in the APNR are Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (53,395 ha), Klaserie Private Nature Reserve (60,080 ha), Umbabat Private Nature Reserve (17,910 ha), Balule Nature Reserve (55,000 ha) and Thornybush Game Reserve (11,500 ha). Land use varies from private leisure use to photographic tourism and trophy hunting on some properties.

Manyeleti
Founded in 1963, the 23,000 ha Manyeleti Game Reserve is sandwiched between the Kruger, Sabi Sand, and Timbavati, with no fences in-between. It also has an interesting and unique history. During the Apartheid years, it was the only reserve that welcomed people of colour, and after claiming back the land, the local Mnisi people now own and manage the reserve. Land use is exclusively for photographic tourism.

Letaba Ranch
The 42,000 ha Letaba Ranch Game Reserve, just north of the mining town of Phalaborwa, shares an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park. The reserve is owned by the local Mthimkhulu community and has historically been used mainly for trophy hunting. Future plans include hunting and eco-tourism, but current operations appear to be in a state of turmoil.

Makuya
Makuya Nature Reserve is a 16,000 ha game reserve near the Pafuri gate in the far north of the Kruger, and also shares an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park. The reserve is owned by the Makuya, Mutele, and Mphaphuli communities and is used for both trophy hunting and photographic tourism purposes.

BEYOND SOUTH AFRICA AND THE BIG PICTURE

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP)
GLTP is a 3,8 million-hectare peace park, created on 10 November 2010, that straddles the international borders of three countries, with some of the best wildlife areas in southern Africa being managed as an integrated unit.

This transfrontier park links the Greater Kruger National Park in South Africa to Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park (1 million ha), and Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park (500,000 ha). Fences between the parks have started to come down, allowing the animals to take up their old migratory routes that were previously blocked by political boundaries. Translocations of various antelope species and entire elephant breeding herds have been undertaken, to speed up the process.

Transfrontier Conservation Areas (TFCA)
The TFCA is a strategy to expand the GLTP to an area of approximately 10 million hectares, by incorporating several more national parks, such as Mozambique’s Zinave National Park (400,000 ha) and Banhine National Park (725,000 ha), plus large tracts of state and community-owned tracts of land in-between these parks.

The Kruger National Park is the foundation and role model for this growing and evolving conservation success story. For more about big-picture plans, read Kruger 10-year Management Plan.

WIND BACK THE CLOCK: PRE-KRUGER TIMES

People have lived in and travelled through Kruger for thousands of years.

The Kruger is an archaeologist’s treasure trove, with more than 300 significant sites – from early Stone Age to San rock art – and cultural artefacts from thousands of years ago. The humans of history have left their mark on the Kruger National Park of today.

Before Kruger’s formalisation as a protected area, the area was home to people who mined, hunted, traded and lived their lives – as humans do. The ruins of Thulamela on the southern banks of the Luvuvhu River near Pafuri is one of the most significant archaeological finds in South Africa. This ancient stone citadel reveals a thriving historical mountain kingdom that was occupied by 3,000 people who traded in gold and ivory between 1200 and 1600 AD. The prolific trading community, descendants of the Great Zimbabwe civilisation, were skilled goldsmiths who also traded in iron extracted and smelted from 200 local mines. After the Thulamela dynasty a Tsonga-speaking agricultural and fishing community, known as the Makuleke, settled in the area and thrived until they were forcibly removed to make way for the national park.

The transition to conservation status heralded a less pleasant part of Kruger’s history, when these indigenous people were removed from the area, and relocated elsewhere. In recognition of this, and in line with South Africa’s ongoing land restitution process, in 1998 the Makuleke area in the Kruger was returned to the ownership of the Tsonga people, who now earn concession royalties in return for that area remaining within the Kruger National Park. Other areas within and bordering the Greater Kruger are currently under some form of land claim, and the future will reveal the results of this process.

Although there are no longer any indigenous people living inside the Kruger, there are still many interesting conversations to be had, across Africa, about indigenous people living semi-traditional lives within the boundaries of national parks and other protected areas.

These and other issues such as poaching continue to drive the evolution of this fantastic, iconic national park. The Kruger is one of the world’s most outstanding conservation success stories, with a fascinating past and promising future. Long may it continue to evolve and thrive!

Find out about Greater Kruger or Kruger National Park for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

We wish to thank South African National Parks (SANParks) and Joep Stevens, their General Manager Strategic Tourism Services, for sharing their numerous resources, including photographs and text, from their archives.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Noelle Oosthuizen
Growing up watching Beverly and Dereck Joubert’s documentaries and idolising Jane Goodall, Noelle Oosthuizen has always dreamed of living in the bush. For now, she writes about her bush adventures from her home in Cape Town, South Africa. She has a particular soft spot for chacma baboons, and she advocates for these charming primates every chance she gets. By far her favourite adventure has been being a foster mom to an orphan baby baboon.

About Etosha National Park

SEASONS

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Anja Denker

The re-discovery of the green-breasted pitta in Kibale National Park, as told by Ranger Harriet Kemigisha

Watch the green-breasted pitta in action, filmed by Christian Boix in Kibale National Park – don’t forget to turn up the sound to hear the “proop” and the chimps!

Opinion post by Dr FJ (Erik) Verreynne – a wildlife and livestock vet with a post-graduate wildlife management degree, who has been practising in Botswana since 2002.

Human-wildlife conflict

Finding a solution

The lions and their Guardians

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Marcus Westberg

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Compulsory Interventions

Arrests, investigations and prosecutions

Managing Rhino Populations

Long-term Sustainability Interventions

International and regional cooperation

Conclusion

The Ju/’hoansi of Nyae Nyae

Displaying extraordinary tracking prowess in the Kruger

My Journey

Conservation and Sustainability

Looking to the Future

About the African Great Lakes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Ross Exler

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Opinion post written by:

Watch Rewilding Africa from Peace Parks Foundation below

Stunning Selous

Remote Ruaha

Cheetahs

Magical Maasai Mara

Where to stay

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Mark Paul

The following is a letter from the Botswana government in response to the elephant poaching statistics:

THE ROUTES

TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE

WHAT TO CARRY

Final notes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, SARAH KINGDOM

Watch a video below of a young Ethiopian wolf taking the bait

RESOURCES

Opinion post: Written by Thalefang Charles (sourced from third-party site: Mmegi)

Watch highlights of the 2016 Journeys with Purpose: Elephant Ignite expedition:

WATCH: The first 90 buffalo were released to welcoming cheers from the community

Watch the video, Lions Return to Liwonde, from African Parks below

Brief introduction

Taxonomy

Conservation status and populations

Major threats

Final word

NEWS DESK POST by Humane Society International/Africa (HSI/Africa)

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Opinion post: Written by Maxine Gaines, wildlife biologist

Escaping the rat race

Alone at sea

Holy island

Making landfall

Island idyll

Village life

The Waterberg

Etosha

Brandberg

Swakopmund

Spitzkoppe Campsite

Heading home

Children on safari: Tips from our trip

Read more tips about travelling with kids on safari here: Taking children on safari

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Dianne Tipping-Woods

Read more about kids on safari, along with other informative tips in our story Namibia – On safari with my kid

Opinion post: Written by Maxine Gaines, wildlife biologist

Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

There are several factors which affect the chameleon populations throughout the country

What can you do to help?

THE BOTETI RIVER

THE ZEBRA MIGRATION

THE PANS

WALKING WITH KHOISAN PEOPLE

ABOUT Meno a Kwena

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Ayo Gospodinova

Rhino death in Lake Nakuru National Park