Page 28 – Africa Geographic

Painted Wolves

Everything is still and quiet as the sun pounds the floodplain of the Zambezi Valley. It is late afternoon, but the intensity of the heat has not abated. In front of me are a group of animals lying in a heap. Occasionally a big round ear will twitch, or a head might lazily rise, only to flop back down in exhaustion from the effort.

It is Blacktip and her pack of 14 painted wolves and nine puppies sleeping in the dense shade of a Trichilia tree. I am sitting 20 metres in front of them, my long lens and camera resting on its tripod in anticipation.

Excitement is building within me. From years of observation, I know what is about to happen but, to the casual eye, there is nothing to betray the eruption that will soon take place. Without warning the sleeping wolves explode and begin a ritual of unbounded joy and energy. Every wolf is on its feet as they squeak and skip, run and race, bite and barge, nudge and nibble, duck and dive, leap and lick and sniff and snort… just for the pleasure of being with each other.

Painted wolves playing in Mana Pools in Zimbabwe — Painted wolves are highly social animals in which pack members are in constant physical contact with each other © Nicholas Dyer

This is their greeting ceremony. It is like watching long-separated families meet at an airport, despite them having lain on top of each other all day.

For the last six years, I have been following and photographing three packs of painted wolves on foot, in Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe. This infectious joy of the pack is one reason why I have become obsessed with these creatures. Here in Mana Pools, the painted wolves are incredibly lucky. They live far from the ravages of man, living as so many packs have done before them, over hundreds of thousands of years.

Painted wolves at sunset in Mana Pools in Zimbabwe — Painted wolves are sometimes mistaken for spotted hyena or jackals. In addition, there is a long association with dogs due to some of the other names used. While part of the Canidae family painted wolves are part of the Lycaon genus and are only very distantly related to animals in the Canis genus. As the only remaining member of their genus, painted wolves are a unique evolutionary line amongst African wildlife © Nicholas Dyer

Yet most painted wolves are far from this fortunate. For the species, the last century has been devastating. Their population has dropped from 500,000 to an estimated 6,600 today, confined to roam across just a few remote corners of the African continent.

What has caused this demise? Like all African wildlife, they have lost much of their rangelands from expanding human populations. But the painted wolves have faced a far greater assault. Considered vermin by European settlers anxious to recreate their European farming systems, the painted wolf’s threat to livestock was highly exaggerated by ignorant farmers and a systematic programme aimed at their annihilation was carried out through much of Africa.

**Left:** In Mana Pools, two wild dog packs have mastered the technique of hunting baboons, the only known location where this happens. While only sufficient for a light snack, the inedible leftovers often provide the dogs with grim entertainment; **Right:** The most significant long-term threat to the painted wolf is the loss and fragmentation of their habitat. Painted wolves roam widely across vast expanses of land, well outside the boundaries of protected areas. As they are pushed into smaller areas, painted wolves are even more vulnerable to all the other threats that face them. Both photos © Nicholas Dyer

Colonial administrations offered generous bounties for each painted wolf’s death, and visitors were even allowed to shoot them on sight in many of Africa’s protected parks. In Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), they were considered a ‘problem animal’ right up until 1977. In 1975 alone, 3,404 painted wolves were destroyed in vermin control operations.

Even today, I hear old farmers talk about this animal with such hatred, and I have slowly come to recognise that their ignorance is totally impenetrable.

An Incredible Creature

But for those that really know them, this image of the painted wolf as a wanton killer could not be further from the truth. They are fascinating animals, and each wolf is an individual, most of whom I have got to know well.

They live in a matriarchal society. Only the alpha female will breed with a single alpha male. The rest of the pack will take on a different role – a doting aunt or uncle, a hunt leader, a look-out sentry and even the local doctor that will lick the wounds of any hurt family member.

Each is an individual character, and I am convinced to this day that one of my favourite wolves, Pip, was the clown whose job it was to entertain the children. It is at the den that you get the sense of the cohesion of the pack. Although there is usually only one mother, every member of the pack plays a critical role in their nurturing and development. The adults hunt twice a day and return to regurgitate food for the pups and the adults that remained behind.

Painted wolf puppies with adult — Painted wolves are highly social and cooperative animals, and all animals will share a little of their meal with those who have stayed at the den. The pack brings food back to the pups and the babysitter, not by carrying meat, but by regurgitating the morning or evening’s meal © Nicholas Dyer

An Exceptional Hunter

Their skill as a hunter is well-known and painted wolves have earned themselves a reputation as Africa’s most efficient predator – some say that 80% of their hunts result in a kill.

In my experience, that number seems a little high, but not by much. While many individual chases may be unsuccessful, it is a rare day when the pack goes hungry. To watch them hunt is exhilarating. Their speed, stamina and agility combine to make a kill far more spectacular than any lion or leopard hunt. From what I have seen, the notion that the pack uses telepathy to communicate during the hunt does not stand up. I have stood in the centre of a hunt many times with wolves and impala rushing past me as I desperately try to photograph. It is more like opportunistic mayhem – every wolf for itself.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Painted wolves are often attacked by hyenas who attempt to kill their pups and steal their prey. The wolves always mount an impressive defence, even though hyenas are much larger*; 2) *While painted wolves are Africa’s most efficient predator, not all chases result in a kill and often their prey escape*; 3) *Dust is kicked up as an elephants herd is disturbed by the presence of the pack.* All photos © Nicholas Dyer

Once they have made a kill, any sense of individualism evaporates. To the casual observer watching a pack of painted wolves devour its prey, the frenzy seems savage as they rip the carcass apart. They need to eat fast as they are continually threatened by hyenas that attempt to steal their food, and frenetic battles between these two species are common with the little puppies often a casualty. Closer observation of the feeding frenzy reveals their sharing attitude. They always let the pups eat first. Then any wolf that is wounded, sick or elderly will be allowed to take their fill. The alpha female will often be the last to feed, once her pack is comfortably replete.

Three painted wolves eating a carcass — Painted wolves devour the entire carcass of their prey in minutes, conscious of the constant threat from larger carnivores. Meat is shared amongst the whole pack, regardless of who made the kill or any individual’s ‘status’ within the pack © Nicholas Dyer

This is in sharp contrast to lions, where the big male hogs the kill and the rest of the pride must wait patiently until he is finished. And the little cubs only get to eat last. Rather than aggression, the dogs compete with submission, making for a far more harmonious, generous and kind existence. I am convinced this is because they are led by a female who nurtures rather than dominates.

Females Rule

Indeed, the alpha female is the core of the pack. She will lead her pack from its formation until she dies. She is the leader, general, decision-maker and caring mother. Once she dies, the pack splits, with the males and females heading in different directions to form new packs.

Tait of the Vundu pack was my favourite alpha female. She lived for over ten years and had eight litters, so her genes run through most of the dogs in the Zambezi Valley and probably beyond. Being with her, you could sense her strength of character. I remember when she was faced with an onslaught of 11 hyena against her 14 wolves. She seemed to stand back like a general and direct the defence, ensuring her pups remained safe. But she was no coward. When things got particularly hectic, she would be there in the mix.

Two painted wolves in Mana Pools in Zimbabwe — Unlike our domestic dogs, the chief sense of a painted wolf is sound. When separated they will ‘hoo call’ to each other and can detect the sound two miles away © Nicholas Dyer

As head of the pack, the alpha female presides over the pack’s generally harmonious family life. You get the sense that they really do care for one another with a deep bond of love. Or at least that is the best description I can provide, observing them from my very human viewpoint. Watching them at playtime is perhaps the greatest joy, especially around water. As the sun begins to set and temperatures cool, the pups run around ambushing each other and baiting the dozing adults. The grown-ups often can’t resist the fun and games, joining in with more vigour than the pups.

For the painted wolves, life in Mana Pools is how it should be. However, it is not all plain sailing. Hyena attacks are frequent, and the lions are a continual threat and are responsible for the deaths of many wolves. But in the remote Zambezi Valley, they are protected from their species greatest scourge… mankind.

Painted wolf pack playing in Mana Pools at sunset — Painted wolves are active early in the morning and late in the afternoon, sometimes into the night, especially on moonlit nights. The rest of their days and nights are spent sleeping somewhere cool © Nicholas Dyer

A Threatened Existence

In the west of Zimbabwe, Hwange National Park is surrounded by communal lands where the painted wolves are in daily contact with man. Here they are subjected daily to road kills, disease, snaring, as well as intolerant farmers.

Rabies and distemper often spread from domestic dogs, annihilating entire packs. Villagers lay snares to catch antelope to feed their families or pay for education. Painted wolves, while not the target, are all too often caught in these snares with fatal consequences.

While it is easy to criticise the villagers for laying snares, I would challenge anyone to say they would not do the same if their family was starving or their children unable to attend school. This is where organisations like Painted Dog Conservation (PDC), run by Peter Blinston, play a vital role. Not only do they carry out critical research and run a small army of anti-poachers to collect snares and apprehend criminals, but they also work hand-in-hand with these communities.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) Snares are set for subsistence and commercial hunting outside protected areas and for poaching inside them. The target is for antelope for the bushmeat trade, and painted wolves suffer the terrible side effects of this cruel practice; 2) *Wire snares inflict death and horrific injury on painted wolves. Here a snare is removed from around the neck of a painted wolf*; 3) *Radio telemetry to used track the painted wolves*; 4) *Peter Blinson, managing director of Painted Dog Conservation, makes his way to where a painted wolf has been darted for rehabilitation and tracking*; 4) *A painted wolf is fitted with a tracker*. All photos © Nicholas Dyer

They build boreholes, plant vegetable gardens, vaccinate domestic dogs and have built a string of medical clinics with HIV/AIDS and maternity facilities. These things really matter to the communities, and the message is simple.

“Without the painted wolves, PDC will not be here and neither will the benefits we bring. It is the wolves that are bringing these things to you.”
This message seems to be working, and the communities have even set up their own voluntary anti-poaching team, an initiative entirely of their own making.

This approach certainly has an impact in the short term, but long-term, education is the key. PDC has set up a Bush Camp which brings in over 1,000 children a year for a four-day course on the painted wolves, science and conservation. The camp is designed to change hearts and minds, in an environment which for the children is like going to Disneyland. Attitudes are changing, and this is what is necessary if the painted wolves are to have a chance.

**Caption:** The Painted Dog Conservation aims to directly benefit local people by providing a way for them to earn more and access nutritionally balanced and reliable meals. To these ends, they build and establish nutritional gardens with irrigation systems next to boreholes in the local communities whose children attend the Bush Camp. All photos © Nicholas Dyer

Beyond the villages and communities that must live with these predators on their doorstep, the painted wolves face a more significant problem. That is that so few people know that they exist.

In the conservation world, the elephant, rhino and lion continue to grab all the attention, while the painted wolf is not only ignored but unknown. Of course, these other animals are important – it is not a competition. But the painted wolf needs to be up there on the top table of conservation, especially given that so few remain.

To address this, Peter and I, together with leading conservationist Diane Skinner, have set up the Painted Wolf Foundation. Its objective is to increase the awareness of the painted wolf and raise money for organisations working for their conservation. Peter and I have also produced a book called Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life, which describes in detail the lives of these incredible creatures and what is being done to conserve them. It has been six years in the making and features the same packs in the BBC’s incredible film Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog Dynasty, narrated by Sir David Attenborough.

Two painted wolves greeting each other in Mana Pools in Zimbabwe — This hugely social animal has a complex communication system, involving calls (barks, twittering and hoo-calls), body language and dancing, and even their white tails, which many think are important communication markers during the hunt. © Nicholas Dyer

Turning the Tide

In the race to extinction, it is the painted wolves that are winning. It is a race they never wanted to enter. Few know they exist and even less care. As a species that has mistreated them, it seems to me that if we humans want to describe ourselves as more enlightened, we need to do something to tilt the balance back in their favour.

This is my passion. This is why we have the Painted Wolf Foundation. What we need is for more people to join us and become “Part of the Pack”.

ABOUT THE PAINTED WOLF FOUNDATION

The Painted Wolf Foundation was set up by Nicholas Dyer, Peter Blinston and leading conservationist Diane Skinner. The Painted Wolf Foundation aims to raise awareness about this much threatened and ignored species and support organisations that conserve painted wolves in the field.
The Painted Wolf Foundation has launched a significant campaign to raise global awareness about the species and its plight, working with many partners around the world and within Africa. For six years, wildlife photographer and author Nicholas Dyer has been tracking and photographing the painted wolves on foot in the Zambezi Valley. For twenty years, conservationist Peter Blinston has been doing all he can to save them from extinction.

What the foundation does:
• Raises awareness about the painted wolf worldwide
• Increases the support base for the painted wolf
• Elevates the profile of the organisations working to conserve painted wolves in the field
• Raises funds to support field-based conservation of the painted wolf
• Encourages sharing of best practices
• Supports painted wolf campaigns worldwide
The foundation does this by combining expert conservation knowledge with skills in communication and social media.

THE BOOK

PAINTED WOLVES: A Wild Dog’s Life

The painted wolf is a unique and remarkable creature. On the one hand, it is Africa’s most successful predator, yet on the other, it is an incredibly social animal, caring deeply for its family’s wellbeing in a tightly knit pack.
Yet for the last 100 years, the painted wolf has endured an outrageous onslaught, which has seen their numbers decrease from 500,000 a century ago to only 6,500 today. This 99% reduction in their population has put the wolf’s survival on a knife-edge.
Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life is their story. It is told with insight and passion from two people who know them well, each with their own unique perspective on this endearing animal.
For six years Nicholas Dyer has been tracking and photographing painted wolves on foot in the Zambezi Valley. For twenty years, Peter Blinston has been doing all he can to save the painted wolf from extinction through his organisation Painted Dog Conservation.
In this book, they have come together to tell you what they know and love about this incredible creature, sharing their in-depth knowledge and unique experiences.
The book is illustrated with more than 220 stunning images. Each photograph tells a story and brings alive the captivating and mysterious world of the painted wolves and the lives of those around them. All profits from the book will go to the Painted Wolf Foundation.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Nicholas Dyer

Nick grew up in Kenya and always had a passion for photography. After careers in finance and marketing, stuck behind a desk in London, he took the decision to return to Africa and turn his life around to dedicate it to photography, writing and wildlife conservation. In 2013, he discovered the painted wolves of Mana Pools National Park and fell in love with them. Nick has spent much of the last six years living in a tent while following and photographing three packs on foot.
He is the co-author of Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life, a founding trustee of the Painted Wolf Foundation and a finalist in the prestigious 2018 Wildlife Photographer of the Year Competition with his picture – ‘Ahead of the Game’. See more of his photography at www.nicholasdyer.com, and follow him on his Facebook and Instagram page.

Scientists warn that the world’s wilderness areas are disappearing

Red lechwe antelope in the Okavango Delta in Botswana © Thomas Dressler/Getty

Media release from Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS)

Producing the first comprehensive fine-scale map of the world’s remaining marine and terrestrial wild places, conservation scientists writing in the journal Nature say that just 23% of the world’s landmass can now be considered wilderness, with the rest – excluding Antarctica – lost to the direct effects of human activities.

These disturbing findings are particularly troubling as numerous recent studies reveal that Earth’s remaining wilderness areas are increasingly important buffers against the effects of climate change and other human impacts. The authors note two upcoming gatherings of key decision makes will be crucial to stopping current rate of loss.

Said the paper’s lead author James Watson of WCS and the University of Queensland: “These results are nothing short of a horror story for the planet’s last wild places. The loss of wilderness must be treated in the same way we treat extinction. There is no reversing once the first cut enters. The decision is forever.”

World map showing the remaining wilderness areas © Nature

The authors describe wilderness areas as those places that do not have industrial level activity within them according to the marine and terrestrial human footprint. Local communities can live within them, hunt and fish, etc.

Various analyses reveal that wilderness areas provide increasingly important refuges for species that are declining in landscapes dominated by people. In the seas, they are the last regions that still contain viable populations of top predators, such as tuna, marlins and sharks.

In addition, wilderness areas are also places where enormous amounts of carbon are stored and sequestered with intact ecosystems being at least twice important as similar degraded habitats when it comes to carbon mitigation.

A graph showing the top 20 countries that contain 94% of the world's wilderness — The top 20 countries that contain 94% of the world’s wilderness © Nature

The loss of wilderness is not just a biodiversity conservation and climate issue. Many wildernesses are home to millions of indigenous people who rely on them for maintaining their long bio-cultural connections to land and sea. Their loss is eroding many cultures around the world.

As bleak as these recent findings are, the authors say there is still a chance for Earth’s remaining wilderness to be protected. Incredibly, just 20 nations hold 94% of the worlds marine and terrestrial wilderness areas (excluding Antarctica and the High Seas), with five mega wilderness nations (Russia, Canada, Australia, United States and Brazil) containing 70%. The authors argue that these nations have an enormous role to play to secure the last of the wild.

Said John Robinson, WCS Executive Vice President for Global Conservation at WCS and a co-author of the paper: “Wilderness will only be secured globally if these nations take a leadership role. Right now, across the board, this type of leadership is missing. Already we have lost so much. We must grasp these opportunities to secure the wilderness before it disappears forever.”

Full report: James E. M. Watson, James R. Allan, Oscar Venter, Jasmine Lee, Kendall R. Jones, John G. Robinson, Hugh P. Possingham (2018) Protect the last of the wild. Nature. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-33380-4

Understanding elephant migration in the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area

Hwange National Park is the largest natural reserve in Zimbabwe, a staggering 14,651 km² of wilderness and wildlife, of empty spaces and large herds of animals, of deafening silence and the vibrating roar of a lion on a still night. At an isolated waterhole on a hot and cloudless September day in the far south-eastern corner of the Park, I meet Arnold Tshipa.

Arnold is a large man; both broad-shouldered and tall, dressed in weather-worn khaki and practical boots. He sits earnestly at a desk watching the waterhole. In front of him is a notebook, beside him his binoculars, and to his left hangs a thermometer. As I arrive he checks the thermometer and notes the temperature in his book.

Arnold’s face opens into a broad grin as he welcomes me and my intimidation at his size melts away. He explains that he is assisting Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe with their long-running annual game count in which all animals are recorded at designated water points throughout the Park over a 24-hour period. The data is compared with previous years and is available to anyone who needs it.

With flies buzzing around our faces eager for the moisture provided by a drop of sweat and with frequent pauses to record the arrival of another herd of thirsty elephants, I interview Arnold.

Herd of elephants approaching waterhole — © Sarah Kerr

He is currently finishing his Master’s thesis on elephant movement within and out of Hwange National Park and I am here to find out about his research, how it affects our understanding of Hwange’s elephants and what it means for elephant conservation.

Arnold received a degree in Forest Resources and Wildlife Management from the National University of Science and Technology Zimbabwe in Bulawayo. In his third year, he did an internship with the French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) at their Hwange research site. His time with the CNRS allowed Arnold to work in the field across multiple disciplines and thus to learn a huge amount about Hwange.

Arnold Tshipa studying elephant movement — Arnold assisting with the annual game count in Hwange © Sarah Kerr

Upon graduating he applied for and was granted the job of Chief Ecologist and Environmental officer for the Zambezi Region (Zimbabwe and Zambia) with Wilderness Safaris.

“I started at Wilderness with a passion for elephants and that is where I chose to focus my research,” he states.

Supervised by Dr Simon Chamaillé-Jammes from the CNRS, Arnold recently published a scientific paper entitled ‘Partial migration links local surface-water management to large-scale elephant conservation in the world’s largest Transfrontier conservation area‘.

Arnold used GPS tracking collars on 32 elephants between the years 2010 and 2016 to conduct the first study of large-scale movements of African elephants in Hwange.

Hwange is unfenced, allowing free movement of animals and is a vital part of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA). The KAZA TFCA is an enormous multi-country conservation area that spans five countries and is larger than Germany and Austria combined.

Arnold collared female elephants, explaining that “it is the females that drive the population as a whole. They move as a herd so this data reflects the general movement of elephants better then collaring males would have done”.

The GPS collars were programmed to send location data either each hour or every 4 hours giving a very detailed look at the elephant’s movement over the three years of the study.

Herd of elephants by waterhole — © Sarah Kerr

“We always spoke about cross-border movement but never had any proof of it, now we do,” he continued. “The biggest takeaway from my research is that partial elephant migration exists within Hwange National Park and that this is driven by water resources”.

“Of the 32 elephants we collared roughly one-third (10 elephants), proved to be long-distance migrants. These animals travelled from the Main Camp area to Botswana with one travelling as far as Nxai Pan National Park in Botswana. Another third were shown to be short-distance migrants. They travelled seasonally but they remained within Hwange National Park moving to the most Central and inaccessible areas of the park during the wet season. The final third of elephants in the study were resident to an area.”

He also found that an individual elephant was a short distance migrant for two years and then became a long-distance migrant in the third year, showing that this behaviour can change.

The data from the study brings to light that the elephant numbers within Hwange National Park vary hugely depending on the season. When the elephant population of Hwange is quoted it should always be qualified with the time of year.

Elephant calf chasing birds — © Sarah Kerr

Elephant numbers across Africa are dwindling and the KAZA TFCA is one of the last strongholds for these creatures. This research shows that elephants are a shared natural resource and do not belong to just one country. This is vital in deciding how this precious resource is managed and this research gives better data that can be used to determine current management practices. It is vital that if one country is to undertake population management exercises such as culling, all countries are consulted.

If Arnold could have one thing come about as a result of his research it would be that countries start looking at broader approaches with multiple stakeholders from surrounding regions.

“My hope is for people to work together with no arguments… we must focus on the long-term and embrace the Transfrontier concept,” he says. He is calling for integrative planning involving national wildlife management institutions and the private and communal sector.

Elephant herd in Zimbabwe — © Sarah Kerr

Arnold would like to convey his gratitude for the support of the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and his sponsors without whom the project would not have been possible.

Although Arnold’s research has shown that the seasonal movement of elephants exists, the question of what drives it still remains. Arnold is hoping to answer this question and others that will contribute to our ability to conserve these iconic animals in his PhD research.

Learning More

Although his research has provided interesting data, many questions remain. Arnold is looking for funding for his PhD. He would like to collar elephants in new areas of Hwange National Park, closer to the border with Botswana (he previously collared elephants around the Main Camp area in Hwange’s northeast) to see if new movement patterns emerge. It is likely that even greater cross-border movement in elephant populations located closer to the border may exist.

• To understand the influence of elephant herd demography on migration. i.e.: Does the ratio of male, female, sub-adults and babies in herds affect their ability to migrate?
• To understand the influence of habitat on migration. i.e.: Do elephants in areas with greater resources remain while others leave?
• To understand the influence of competition on migration. i.e.: Do dominant herds stay while others must leave in the leaner seasons?

To get in touch with Arnold, you can email him here.

Botswana’s president addresses the issue of game farms and hunting in Botswana

Sourced from third-party site: Botswana Government

In the latest Botswana Wildlife Producers Association annual general meeting, President Mokgweetsi Masisi made the following remarks regarding game farms and hunting in Botswana.

REMARKS BY HIS EXCELLENCY THE PRESIDENT DURING THE BOTSWANA WILDLIFE PRODUCERS ASSOCIATION ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING

• The Chairperson of the Botswana Wildlife Producers Association – Mr Rudie Dewet
• Distinguished Committee Members
• Members of the Media
• Ladies and Gentlemen

1. A very good morning to you all. I am delighted to be with you today at this important gathering where we will have the opportunity to discuss issues pertaining to natural resource utilisation in Botswana.

2. It is gratifying to note that over the years, Botswana has experienced quite a significant growth in the number of people participating in the Game Ranching sector and I can assure you that if well facilitated, the sector has the potential to contribute towards the diversification of the economy thus creating the much-needed employment amongst our rural communities.

3. In recognition of this potential, the Wildlife Conservation Policy (WCNP) of 1986 was formulated for the development of a viable commercial wildlife industry, to create economic opportunities, employment and generation of income for the rural communities through sustainable utilisation such as controlled hunting, processing of wildlife by-products and photographic safaris amongst others. In this regard, the revised policy of 2013 places the private sector at the centre of efforts to diversify the wildlife sector.

4. Government went further to develop the Game Ranching Policy in 2002, which gives detailed directions pertaining to the development of a game ranching industry, implementation guidelines and responsibilities for the stakeholders involved in the industry.

5. Consequently, the past years have been characterised by increased interest from private individuals and companies to participate in natural resource utilisation. This has led to an increase in the number of Registered Game Ranches from Thirty Three in 2000 to One hundred and Thirty to date. This resulted in the growth of wildlife population in Botswana including rare and endangered species such as sable and rhinos.

6. Ladies and Gentlemen, I am pleased to announce that Government recognises sustainable utilisation of natural resources as an area that can contribute to the growth of the economy of this country.

7. To this end, deliberate efforts have been made to ensure the participation of both communities and individuals in Game Ranching. Currently, individuals benefit from sustainable utilisation of natural resources through non-consumptive approach since 2014.

8. Despite the marked growth of natural resource utilisation, the sector has not yet reached its maximum potential in terms of contributing to the national economy as well as its ability to contribute to natural resource conservation due to its high investment costs which make it difficult for ordinary Batswana to venture into.

9. In this regard, I have instructed Ministers, to remove all the impediments that are slowing down the growth of any industry under their mandate. My expectation is that issues of land, lengthy application processes and sometimes duplicate license requirements and inspections will be reduced to facilitate all of you.

10. My Government is also aware of the damage caused by elephants on your properties especially fences and water points which results in your animals going for days without water. To address this, we have started National Consultative Meetings on the National Elephant Action Plan and Human-Wildlife Conflict.

11. Ladies and Gentlemen, A moratorium on hunting was effected in 2014 in a bid to allow the population increase of the animal species but Government is of the view that it is time for us to reconsider the hunting ban in light of the high population increase of some animals particularly elephants. In this respect, the Government has started national consultations on this critical issue.

12. Furthermore, Government views the auction and export of live animals as an area that can contribute significantly to the growth of the sector. It is thus important that discussions on how this would be done should be held between the industry and the regulating Ministry. The aim will be to achieve a win-win situation.

13. The outcome of the consultations will allow the Government to make informed decisions on the current challenges facing the industry. Our Policies must ensure that there is a balance between conservation and sustainable utilisation of natural resources for the betterment of our people.

14. Government, therefore, acknowledges challenges in natural resource utilisation hence the need to promote the facilitation of a regulated natural resource-based sector. This should be premised on sustainable off-take, science-based quota setting and efficient utilisation of the resources. We should also encourage natural resource enterprises by providing opportunities for communities, individuals and the private sector to participate in such ventures.

15. Distinguished Ladies and Gentlemen, Government will consider the review of the Wildlife and National Parks Act (WCNP) of 1992 and other relevant Legislation to facilitate beneficiation of Wildlife resources.

16. I would like to make it abundantly clear that animals in a game proof fenced farm belong to the Owner of the Farm. The Minister is however empowered under Section 25 of the WCNP Act to make regulations for game farms and game ranches which may include the conditions under which animals should be kept, the capturing and selling of animals on game farms. Any deviation from the above will require the amendment of the Act which can be motivated through National dialogue.

17. Notwithstanding the above, it is worth noting that there are certain endangered animal species, some threatened by extinction which are jealously protected by the State. These include rhinoceros and pangolins. As stated, The WCNP provides that any rhinoceros horn shall be a Government trophy as provided for under Section 67 (6), which states that no person shall have in his possession, transfer or in any way deal in rhinoceros horn.

18. It is therefore my expectation that this gathering will generate ideas and recommendations that will shape the industry for the benefit of both conservation and the economic growth of the country, ideas that will sustain the industry while creating jobs with a decent income.

19. In conclusion, I would like to point out that a well-researched game industry will allow few good quality animals in a reduced land instead of many low-quality animals occupying a large piece of land. The returns will be high, fast and at a reduced cost. If less land is required for each participant it will allow more people to participate in the industry.

20. Research will also allow some people to grow rare species of high value such as the pangolin. In the long run, they will realise high benefits and put the country on the world map.

21. With these few remarks I wish you successful deliberations during your annual meeting.

I thank you.

China lifts ban and legalises tiger bone and rhino horn for medical purposes

Seized rhino horn shipment — Customs officers stand next to part of a 33 rhino horn shipment seized by customs in Hong Kong. Image source: Reuters / Bobby Yip

Sourced from third-party sites: Reuters, WWF

China unveiled new rules on Monday that would allow the use of rhino horn and tiger parts for some medical and cultural purposes, watering down a decades-old ban in a move conservation group WWF said could have “devastating consequences”.

China’s State Council issued a notice replacing its 1993 ban on the trade of tiger bones and rhino horn. The new rules ban the sale, use, import and export of such products, but allow exceptions under “special circumstances”, such as medical and scientific research, educational use, and as part of “cultural exchanges”.

Horns of rhinos or bones of tigers that were bred in captivity could be used “for medical research or clinical treatment of critical illnesses”, it said.

Rhino horn and tiger products classified as “antiques” could be used in “cultural exchanges” with the approval of culture authorities, although they still may not be sold on the market or exchanged via the internet.

WWF said in a statement that Beijing’s move would have “devastating consequences globally” and be “an enormous setback to efforts to protect tigers and rhinos in the wild”.

“Even if restricted to antiques and use in hospitals, this trade would increase confusion by consumers and law enforcers as to which products are and are not legal, and would likely expand the markets for other tiger and rhino products,” WWF said.

Beijing banned trade in tiger bones and rhino horns, both prized in traditional Chinese medicine, 25 years ago as part of global efforts to halt declining animal stocks. But illegal poaching has continued, driven by demand in an increasingly affluent country. Commercial tiger farms in China are legal, and although using tiger bones in medicine was banned, tiger parts from these farms often end up being made into tonics or other medicines, animal rights groups say.

Conservation groups say Chinese traditional medicine recipes can make use of substitutes for products from wild animals. Some Chinese officials have in the past said full bans on the use of wild animal parts would threaten traditional Chinese medicine.

Seized crushed tiger bone — An officer holds a package containing crushed tiger bones, seized by the UK Border Force at Heathrow Airport. Image source: Reuters / Simon Dawson

BLOODLIONS Official statement:

“Blood Lions is deeply concerned about the announcement by Chinese authorities to lift the ban on rhino horn and tiger bone products for medicinal purposes.

There is a global movement by leading conservation groups to stop all trade in wildlife products. As has been the case with various other wildlife species, legal trade promotes demand and a parallel illegal market. This in turn puts pressure on wild populations.

As with lions, there are fewer tigers in the wild than there are in captivity. The lack of supply has ignited an alarming demand for lion bones as a substitute for traditional Chinese medicine. Although ‘tiger bone wine’ has been used in TCM for at least 1000 years, or more, there are no proven medicinal properties.”

REST – Rehabilitation & Conservation in Action

The morning sun was starting to make us sweat as we sat on the ground in a circle and waited. There wasn’t a breath of wind as small puffs of pale-yellow dust rose into the air, kicked up by four inquisitive creatures who were making their way towards us. Slowly but surely, they got within arm’s reach as grunts, squeaks, oinks and sniffling filled the dry Namibian air. Before we knew it we were surrounded by four adorable young warthogs, their tails swinging wildly as they came to investigate the new visitors to their home, with one warthog eyeing me out with particular interest…

It’s not often you get to say that you have been pushed over by a curious warthog, his knees jabbing into your chest as he makes his way to your face, snout leaving muddy ‘kisses’ on your neck and cheek… and all the while a lone meerkat looks on big-eyed from a nearby rock, as the curious and friendly warthogs entertain us with their antics.

As amusing as this would be if it were a cut scene from The Lion King, it was, in fact, something that happened while visiting REST – the Rare and Endangered Species Trust – in Namibia, where I had the pleasure of meeting ‘Monte’ the warthog, along with his adopted siblings; ‘Dexter’ the meerkat; and a host of other wild animals in need of care and rehabilitation.

Landscape showing REST centre in Namibia — The Rare & Endangered Species Trust is located on a 300-hectare piece of land, owned by Maria Diekmann, east of Outjo in northern Namibia © Thea Felmore

REST is a non-profit organisation founded in 2000 by conservationist and animal rehabilitator extraordinaire Maria Diekmann. She, along with her hard-working team, aims to bring attention to some of the most misunderstood and endangered animals in Namibia.

Initially, they began by helping only Cape vultures, but after a few years, it became apparent that there were a few species that needed specific support in Namibia. Now their research focuses on the ‘Forgotten Five + 1’ – the African wild dog, Cape vulture, Damara dik-dik, dwarf python, spotted rubber frog, and the pangolin.

Pangolin — Honey Bun the pangolin © Noelle Alcorn/REST

The warthog encounter occurred during one of the daily tours that REST offers, where visitors are shown around the centre with the possibility of meeting wild animals that are currently being looked after. One of REST’s key beliefs is that all animals that arrive should be released back into the wild if possible. Visitors to REST cannot be guaranteed to see specific animal species at the centre, as young or injured animals at the centre may be there one month, but the next month could have been returned to the wild.

The warthog orphans were raised by Maria and her team, having been rescued when they were just piglets. They were rewilded some time ago, and are now free to roam, but occasionally come back to the centre for a visit – and it was just luck that I happened to be there on the day they visited.

And of course, there is Dexter the meerkat. He was rescued as a baby and was raised at the centre until ready for release. However, because meerkats are sociable animals and there are no other meerkats around, Dexter decided to hang around and adopt Maria and her team into his colony. He disappears into a burrow at night, but prefers the company of humans during the day and often is found following the team around as they go about their daily activities, chirping away in typical meerkat fashion.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Dexter seemingly contemplating life at sunset*; 2) *Monte the warthog greets Rubeus, one of the pangolin handlers*; 3) *Dexter and the warthogs relax in the sun* © Noelle Alcorn/REST and © Thea Felmore

There are a few non-releasable animals at the centre, such as birds of prey who are unable to fly. Walking into the expansive aviary, visitors can meet two non-releasable Cape vultures and spotted eagle-owls, a bateleur, tawny eagles, and a couple of tortoises (which Maria hopes will eventually be released).

While inside the aviary, Maria explains to the visitors the plight that vultures face, and how REST was in 2004 the first in Africa to fit a satellite tracking unit on a vulture. From there, RESTs satellite successes grew to eventually having tracking on six Cape vultures and one suspected hybrid – all for research and conservation purposes.

Cape vulture sunning itself — A Cape vulture suns itself in the aviary © Thea Felmore

Vultures are endangered because of poisoned bait, dropped by cattle ranchers in their bid to wipe out jackals, and by elephant and rhino poachers, who have caught on to the fact that vultures circling a recently killed elephant or rhino can alert law-enforcement officials and game rangers that poachers are in the area – so they leave poison on the carcasses to kill the vultures.

**Caption:** *The bird of prey aviary houses numerous non-releasable birds, namely Cape vultures, owls, tawny eagles and a bateleur* © Noelle Alcorn/REST and © Thea Felmore

When asked about the highlights of running a rehabilitation centre, Maria replied:

“Rehabilitating a bird. Taking it outside. Letting it go and watching it fly off. And I can raise that bird or rehabilitate that bird for a year, feed it every day, love it and have a name for it and people ask how could you possibly let it go? But you know what? That bird loves you, and you love it. And knowing that is all that matters.”

**Left:** *The daily tour includes visiting the large bird of prey aviary*; **Right:** *Maria introduces Honey Bun the pangolin to the tour group while the warthogs keep us company*. Both photos © Thea Felmore

ENDANGERED PANGOLINS

When visitors book for a tour, REST lets them know that they cannot guarantee that they will see certain animals or species due to the unpredictable nature of wildlife, though these days 95% of visitors come in the hope of seeing a pangolin.

At present, it is believed that REST is the only centre in the world open to the public where baby Cape pangolins have been raised successfully and monitored until prepared for full release.

A few pangolins have come through the doors of the centre, such as Roxy and her son Katiti – who after three years of preparation, was successfully released back in the wild.

Cape pangolin sticking its tongue out — The tongue of a pangolin can reach up to over 40cm in length when fully extended © Noelle Alcorn/REST

But there is one particular pangolin that has stolen the limelight and has become the poster pangolin for REST: Honey Bun.

Maria found Honey Bun, or HB for short, in 2015, when she came across her severely abused mother. Honey Bun suffered no damage whatsoever, thanks to her mother’s protection. However, her mother was so traumatised that she escaped during rehabilitation, and Honey Bun has been in Maria’s care ever since.

Honey Bun shared stardom with one of China’s most famous women, actress and model Angelababy, in a WILDaid campaign clip that attracted 25 million viewers in the first 24 hours of release. Recently, Honey Bun was the star of the BBC wildlife documentary Pangolins: The World’s Most Wanted Animal, narrated by Sir David Attenborough, which was shown earlier this year.

Meeting Honey Bun in person was a surreal moment for me, and I was lucky enough to walk in the bush with her and Steven, a pangolin handler at REST.

Accompanying us was volunteer researcher Saskia, who follows Honey Bun every day during her walkabouts without disturbing her natural behaviour – taking notes and learning essential facts about pangolins, such as their diet, territory, interaction with other species, etc.

Honey Bun can walk up to five hours a day as she forages for ants and termites, and wherever she goes, the handler and researcher have to follow – even if it means scrambling through and under thorny acacia bushes. Only when I was faced with a wall of thorns, did I understand why I was told to wear old clothes for the walk. I did not come out unscathed, with my shirt and jeans subsequently sporting a somewhat ‘holier’ look than before.

**Clockwise from top left:**1) *One of Honey Bun’s handlers takes her out to the area where she will begin her walk in the bush*; 2) *A pangolin’s diet consists purely of ants and termites*; 3) *Honey Bun forages in her natural habitat*; 4) *Honey Bun heads into the tall grass under the watchful eye of Saskia*. Photos by © Thea Felmore and © Noelle Alcorn/REST

One of the challenges when dealing with pangolins is the lack of research and information out there to help with care. As Maria told me, with vultures there are established protocols about how to treat poisoned individuals, but with pangolins, there is no available information on the topic of rehabilitation.

“The hardest by far is losing a pangolin because there is no information available about that particular circumstance,” Maria shares with me. “So we have this constant pressure to figure everything out as quickly as possible while operating in the dark, and that is hard to face because we sometimes feel disempowered and helpless – nobody likes to feel that way.”

The one silver lining in all this is that REST is making an effort to learn as much as they can with every pangolin that they care for, teaming up with researchers to work out ways to monitor and study these incredible creatures in their natural habitat, and through this build up their knowledge and expertise in pangolin care and rehabilitation.

Two people watchign a pangolin forage in Namibia — Everyday Honey Bun goes out for her daily walk in the bush, accompanied by her handler and a researcher who takes down various information about her movements, diet, etc. © Thea Felmore

REST doesn’t want to disappoint when visitors come in anticipation of seeing a pangolin, but wanting to satisfy visitors’ curiosity cannot under any circumstances be to the detriment of that pangolin. It is of vital importance to REST that visitors realise that they are not a zoo. Expectations should be to learn about the various species they focus on, and if lucky to see a pangolin firsthand.

Honey Bun lives by her own rules, and schedule and the team work around her, and Maria briefly showed her to us while providing various facts about pangolins – from their physiology and diet to conservation status and threats – before taking her back to where she rests during the day.

REHABILITATION, EDUCATION AND TOURISM

REST’s primary aim in being a good wildlife centre is to practice good conservation first. Maria feels strongly that although research and education are key, conservation of a species must take priority.

Maria says that one of the challenges faced when running a wildlife rehabilitation centre is trying to find that very fine balance between fundraising and conservation, research and education. The centre needs revenue from tourism to be able to pay its costs and be sustainable, “and yet…” she says, “you must be very careful not to cross the line and be all about the money, or to be perceived as such”.

“I’d rather see an animal in the wild than in captivity,” Maria goes on to say. “But there are times when you keep an animal in captivity for its health or welfare. Some animals are not releasable if permanently injured, and some don’t want to be released and have problems on a psychological level.”
One example Maria provided was that of an owl that she has tried to release about 30 times at various locations, but the bird keeps returning to REST and now prefers the comfort of his aviary.

**Left:** *The shop where one can buy gifts and souvenirs*; **Right:** *Volunteer researchers (from left) Soledad Galli, Hanna Buchler, Saskia Reuschling, and REST’s social media and fundraising manager – Noelle Alcorn.* Both photos © Thea Felmore

Two visitors, I met at REST were JP and his sister Carla, who were visiting from South Africa to see if they could help to promote the centre, and pangolin conservation. I asked them their thoughts on REST and Maria’s efforts with wildlife rehabilitation and conservation.

“The commitment – it’s so inspiring to see someone commit their whole life to a higher cause. REST is such an amazing cause, I now want to do more to help,” Carla tells me.

JP adds to Carla’s sentiment: “It’s great to see someone fighting for the underdogs. This is not the glamorous ‘save the rhino’ deal, this is about the forgotten and often ignored species. Maria’s selfless efforts are incredibly inspiring and helping those who can’t help themselves is near to my heart. So I think they’re doing fantastic work at the centre.”

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *Honey Bun and Steven ready for the daily bush walk*; 2) Volunteer *Saskia in the bird of prey aviary*; 3) *A wide range of animals pass through the doors of REST, including this baby Cape serotine bat, who was successfully released back into the wild*; 4) *This serval was another of the many animals rehabilitated and released from REST*. Photos by © Noelle Alcorn/REST and © Thea Felmore

THE REALITY

Many wild animals have come through the doors of REST and have been released back into the wild – from owls to pigeons, tortoises, warthogs, pangolins and dik-diks.

But the joys and elation of successful reintroductions are tempered by heart-breaking moments…

Not two weeks had passed since my visit when poachers brandishing pangas raided the burrow where the warthogs live. The eldest warthog, Missy, has not been seen since and is presumed killed for bushmeat. Monte and Madeline were injured, and Matilda managed to escape unharmed.

Three warthogs and a meerkat — Monte (left) recovers from a poacher panga slash to his rear, with fellow hogs Matilda and Madeline, and Dexter the meerkat © Maria Diekmann/REST

It was incredibly difficult for me to hear the news of the attack on the warthogs, having just met the four young orphans. Almost every day in my job, I am faced with news about various accounts of wildlife poaching, and I’ve learnt to tuck those emotions away and get on with the job of reporting. However, this attack was hard to swallow, and I found myself thinking how strong Maria and the team at REST must be to be able to handle heartbreaking situations where their former patients are injured or killed, after having worked so hard to release them back into the wild.

**Left:** *Maria with Honey Bun*; **Right:** *Honey Bun foraging for ants and termites during her daily bushwalk.* Both photos © Thea Felmore

THE SILVER LINING

Maria is a strong, resilient person, relentless in her drive to rescue, rehabilitate and release wildlife. She is someone to be admired.

And the team behind her are just as impressive as they go about spreading the word, fundraising, looking after injured animals and constructing buildings to help house future patients.

Before I left to return home, I asked Maria about her ultimate goal for REST. And she once again demonstrated her unwavering determination and dedication to wildlife conservation, saying:

“Watching that rehabbed pangolin walk off into the bush as a wild animal is the ultimate high for my team and I. But as far as ultimate goals are concerned, imagine if we could keep tracking that pangolin from a computer at REST – and so contribute meaningfully to growing the available information about this special animal. Now THAT would be amazing, and surely that is the ultimate goal.”

Pangolin taking a nap in the bush — Honey Bun naps during one of her bush walks © Noelle Alcorn/REST

ABOUT the Rare & Endangered Species Trust

The Rare & Endangered Species Trust is located on a 300-hectare piece of land east of Outjo in northern Namibia.

It is a non-profit organisation, and their mission is to initiate and support the scientific and practical study of rare and endangered species in Namibia and to help develop and facilitate solutions to conservation problems among these species at community, national and international level.

How you can help

REST relies on donations, both big and small, to help keep the centre running and providing medicine and food for the wild animals in need of care. They are always thankful for any monetary donations, and currently, their greatest need is proper perimeter fencing – at 30US$ per metre – to help keep poachers off the property. Visit their donation page and sponsor page for more information.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, THEA FELMORE

As a former field guide and teacher, Thea has combined her passion for the English language and love of African wildlife, travel and culture in her previous work as Africa Geographic editor. When not in front of the screen she makes time to get out and explore the beautiful Cape Town countryside in search for her favourite reptile species (and other fascinating creatures, of course).

Video: Gorilla males who babysit have greater reproduction success

Male gorilla with baby in Rwanda forest — © Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

Press release from the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

A new study based on research at the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Rwanda and just published in Scientific Reports suggests that mountain gorillas who are nice to infants have greater success in siring more infants.

This finding is scientifically noteworthy because it contradicts what was long believed about male gorilla reproduction and male primates in general – that all that matters is the ability to fight for the dominant position, not whether you’re a good parent.

Silverback Isabukuru with infant — © Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

The study’s senior author, Fossey Fund President and CEO/Chief Scientific Officer Dr Tara Stoinski, says this study shows that long-term research of a species continues to pay off in unexpected ways.

“Dian Fossey first went to study these mountain gorillas in the 1960s, with the goal of furthering our understanding of human evolution,” Dr Stoinski says. “More than five decades later, the Fossey Fund’s continued research on this population – which makes them one of the world’s longest-studied animals – is still providing critical insights into what it means to be a gorilla – or a human,” she adds.

Dian Fossey and Digit © Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

“Learning about what mountain gorillas do, and why, helps us understand how human males may have started down the unique path to our more-involved form of fatherhood,” says Dr Stacy Rosenbaum, former Fossey Fund researcher and the study’s lead author. She is now a post-doctoral fellow at Northwestern University.

“We don’t fully understand the mechanism, but based on this study, we propose that females preferentially mate with males who are nice to kids,” Rosenbaum says. And, she adds, “the evolutionary origins of male caretaking in the primate lineage that led to humans may be much older than we think.”

Isabukuru and Icyororo, mountain gorillas — © Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

Additional research is now underway to investigate whether hormones, such as testosterone, may play a role in helping to facilitate these behaviours in the gorillas, as they do in humans.

Full report: Stacy Rosenbaum, Linda Vigilant, Christopher Kuzawa, Tara Stoinski. (2018) Caring for infants is associated with increased reproductive success in male mountain gorillas. Scientific Reports. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-33380-4

Watch male mountain gorillas interacting with kids in the video below (© Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund)

Celebrating African Elephants

The African elephant (Loxodonta africana) is one of the most easily recognisable animals in the whole wide world. They once roamed across most of the continent from the northern Mediterranean coast to the southern tip, but they are now confined to a much smaller range in eastern and southern Africa, with the highest densities found in Botswana, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Zambia and South Africa. For many people, elephants epitomise an African safari. Their big stature, tactile trunks, and human-like qualities make them a point of interest for both avid and novice safari-goers alike.
In this gallery, Celebrating African Elephants, we are sharing with you some incredible photos of these giant pachyderms, taken by photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018 competitions. Have you heard about our popular Maasai Mara photographic safari?

? “The inquisitive one” in Kariega Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andrew Aveley (Photographer of the Year 2017 Finalist)

“While on safari, I came across a small breeding herd of elephants. We were stationary in a small narrow valley, and the elephants slowly started to move past us in very close quarters. While I was watching, this small elephant calf approached the vehicle and slowly lifted his trunk to get a scent of these strange creatures in the metal object mere inches away. It was great to create this image showing the inquisitive nature of the baby elephant.” ~ Andrew Aveley

? “Broken” – an elephant with a broken tusk in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

An in-depth study of the African elephant’s wrinkly skin has revealed how its intricate design helps to keep the animal cool, protect it from parasites and prevent dehydration. Read about the study here

? A solitary elephant bull in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Martin Fromer (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

Elephants live for 50 to 70 years. Bulls only start contributing to the gene pools at 35 to 40 years old and cows start breeding at 12 to 14 years old. Cows undergo the longest gestation period of all mammals – they are pregnant for 22 months.

? The perfect itching post in Madikwe Game Reserve © Kevin Dooley (Instagram/kevinsphotographyusa) (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Elephants can detect seismic signals via their feet, through the leg and shoulder bones and into the middle ear. They communicate with each other over distances up to 10 km via low-frequency rumbles, again picked up via the feet.

? Playful elephant calf in Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa © Annette Heymans (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“We visited the Addo Elephant National Park and were photographing the elephants at Hapoor dam. There were three babies in the herd, but this one was the eldest. He was chasing anything that moved around him, no matter how big or small. He had also discovered his trunk and was turning and tossing his head while his trunk swung in every direction – he seemed to enjoy this tremendously.” ~ Annette Heymans

? “Elephants approaching” in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Brigitta Moser (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

“The Amboseli National Park in Kenya has the biggest herds of elephants in Africa. When we were there, I saw from afar a large elephant family coming directly towards us, heading for the swamp that was just behind us. This photo is the only one I got when all the elephants were looking head-on.” ~ Brigitta Moser

? “The land of giants” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Björn Persson (Photographer of the Year 2017 Semi-finalist)

Elephants are the heaviest land mammals, at 4 – 7 tons, and the second tallest land mammal (behind the giraffe) at 3.1 to 3.4 metres at the shoulder. The largest elephant on record weighed 10.9 tons and was 3.9 metres at the shoulder.

? “In unison” at Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa © John Vosloo (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

There are about 50,000 muscles in an elephant’s trunk, made up of six muscle groups, and no bones. This compares to 639 muscles in the entire human body! The closest thing we have to an elephant’s trunk is our tongue. Elephants use their trunks to breathe, drink, eat, smell, snorkel, wrestle, communicate, touch, feel, hold, grab and pull. We can’t think of any other appendage that is so versatile.

? Desert elephants in the Huab River Valley, Damaraland, Namibia © Norman Victor (Instagram/norm_northmen) (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“It was after the heavy rains in Namibia when I saw these elephants travelling on the dry, arid land from the mountains towards the Huab River in search of vegetation.” ~ Norman Victor

? A herd of elephants dig for water in a dry riverbed in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Arno Pietersen (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

During the dry season, elephants provide access to water for other species. They dig holes in dry riverbeds to get to deep water – opening the water up for other species not able to dig. They also enlarge, and compact mud wallows to form large pans that fill up with water – again providing water for other species.

? “Elephant sunset” in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

The elephant’s sense of smell is estimated to be four times that of a bloodhound or 160 times that of a human. They can smell water from many kilometres away.

? A recently born elephant calf seeks comfort and safety against mom in Addo National Park, South Africa © Prelena Soma Owen (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

A baby elephant is called a calf. It weighs about 250 pounds at birth and stands about three feet tall. Calves can’t see very well at first, but they can recognise their mothers by touch, scent, and sound.

? Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Andrew Campbell (Instagram/acsafaris) (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

“I watched these two bulls sparring for over an hour on the edge of the lakebed in Amboseli. At first, there were clear skies and then a huge storm built up above and around them. What with the dust, the clouds, the light, the drama and the action, it was truly an incredible scene, and I was lucky to pop off a few shots before they eventually moved off.” ~ Andrew Campbell

? “Unleashed fury” in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Dana Kennedy (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“Amboseli is the ultimate canvas in which to encounter elephants in their natural environment. In this photograph, the bull, who was in musth, is mock-charging our vehicle, coming within metres of us and moving with aggressive intent. He continued his antics, displaying signs of displeasure by stomping his feet and violently shaking his head from side to side. It was a compelling display of a 12,000-pound giant’s fury. Heart racing and adrenaline high, I managed to keep composure and capture the image of his violent display as dust and mud flew all about him. Nothing compares to coming face-to-face with a force of nature like this elephant’s unleashed fury.” ~ Dana Kennedy

? A beautiful atmospheric sunset with elephants in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe © Greg Metro (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

Hwange National Park is home to one of the largest elephant populations in Africa. An estimated 44,000 pachyderms are inhabiting the 14,651 km² park, making up 90 % of the above-surface biomass. The park is lacking in natural surface water so during the dry season the animals, including the elephants, rely on human-made pans of calcium-rich water pumped from boreholes.

Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life

Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life – by Nicholas Dyer and Peter Blinston

The painted wolf (Lycaon pictus), also known as the African wild dog, is a unique and remarkable creature. On the one hand, it is Africa’s most successful predator. Yet, on the other, it is an incredibly social animal, caring deeply for its family’s wellbeing in a tightly knit pack. Yet for the last 100 years, the painted wolf has endured an outrageous onslaught, which has seen their numbers decrease from 500,000 a century ago to only 6,500 today. This 99% reduction in their population has put the wolf ’s survival on a knife-edge.

Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life is their story. It is told with insight and passion from two people who know them well – award-winning photographer Nicholas Dyer and renowned conservationist, Peter Blinston, both Painted Wolf Foundation Trustees.

For six years Nicholas Dyer has been tracking and photographing painted wolves on foot in the Zambezi Valley. For twenty years, Peter Blinston has been doing all he can to save the painted wolf from extinction through his organisation Painted Dog Conservation.
In this book, they have come together to tell you what they know and love about this incredible creature, sharing their in-depth knowledge and unique experiences.

The book is illustrated with more than 220 stunning images. Each photograph tells a story in its own right and brings alive the captivating and mysterious world of the painted wolves and the lives of those around them.
In this gallery, we are sharing just a small selection of the stunning painted wolf photos that feature in the book. You can order your copy of the book here, and all profits from the sale of this book will be donated to the Painted Wolf Foundation.

BUY THE BOOK HERE

? A pair of painted wolf pups play a macabre game of tag with the head of a baboon – the remains of their breakfast. This photo, ‘Ahead of the Game’, was awarded Highly Commended in the 2018 Wildlife Photographer of the Year awards. © Nicholas Dyer

? Painted wolf litter sizes can be quite variable but average around ten pups. Pups weigh about 300 grams each. They stay in the den for three months, moving from milk to meat by the age of eight weeks. After leaving the den, they only join the pack as full-fledged hunters at 12 months. © Nicholas Dyer

? Every painted wolf has a unique pattern, although most have a distinctive white flash at the tip of their bushy tail. Painted wolves in north-east and east Africa have darker patterns, while in southern Africa the coats are more lightly coloured. © Nicholas Dyer

? This hugely social species spend a significant amount of time playing, especially with the pups, who seem to take a long time to grow up! © Nicholas Dyer

? When one of the pack is ill or injured, the painted wolves rally around to care for the sick animal, regurgitating meat after a hunt, or even licking the wound to keep it clean. Here, one shares a carcass with his wounded brother. © Nicholas Dyer

? “Wild dogs are among the world’s most successful predators. Before the chase, the dogs often move in a single file together, heads down, backs straight and ears pricked; they are serious, focused and energised. These dogs are part of the Vundu Pack in Mana Pools. While this picture captures their hunting pose, the reality here is that they had just woken up after a day in the blistering sun and were excitedly moving to wake the pups who were still sleeping. Despite their menacing look, all they wanted to do next was to play with their pups in an expression of boundless joy.” ~ Nicholas Dyer © Nicholas Dyer

? The pack disturbs a herd of elephants in Mana Pools. © Nicholas Dyer

? While playing, a painted wolf pup realises that her brother is growing up… and so are his teeth. © Nicholas Dyer

? Painted wolves live in a pack, led by an alpha female. Pack size ranges from just two to over 30, but somewhere in the range of ten is most common. Packs usually need at least four to six members to successfully raise their pups. Same-sex groups disperse from their natal pack around the age of two and hopefully meet up with another dispersal group (of the opposite sex!) to form a new pack. © Nicholas Dyer

? Painted wolves are continually competing with lions and hyenas, who often try to steal kills and, sometimes, even kill the painted wolves. © Nicholas Dyer

? Before the pack goes on the hunt, they perform a joyous ‘greeting ceremony’. Even though they have been sleeping next to each other all day or all night, their enthusiasm in this pre-hunt ritual is incredible to watch. © Nicholas Dyer

? Except for the three months when they are denning, painted wolves are the nomads of the African bush, moving widely within an extensive home range. © Nicholas Dyer

? The Latin name for the painted wolf is Lycaon pictus, translating literally to ‘painted wolf-like creature’. The species is known by a multitude of names, including ‘wild dog’, ‘painted dog’ and ‘African hunting dog’. And those are just the English ones! Whatever the name you choose to use, this is a species deserving of our respect and attention. © Nicholas Dyer

The Okapi: The Shy Forest Dwellers of Central Africa

The mysterious and enigmatic okapi is one of the oldest mammals on Earth, but it has only been known to the western world since the early 20th century.

Covered in unusual markings on their rump and legs, okapi are elusive, shy and gentle, and nearly impossible to observe in the wild due to their secretive nature.

Okapi have incredibly acute senses of hearing and smell that help them avoid predators, such as leopards, and make them hard to find in the wild © Okapi Conservation Project

The Okapi Conservation Project (OCP) has been steadfastly protecting okapi in the Democratic Republic of Congo long before the country became known as such. Founded in 1987, when the country was called Zaire and under the ruling of Mobutu Sese Seko, the Project struck up a Contract of Collaboration with the Institut Congolais pour la Conservation de la Nature (ICCN) with the agreement to protect the okapi and its habitat through wildlife protection, community assistance and conservation education.

Just five years later in 1992, the OCP, alongside ICCN, the Zaire government and many other partner NGOs, helped develop the Okapi Wildlife Reserve – a nearly 14,000 km² World Heritage Site in the Ituri Forest in the northeast of the DR Congo – dedicated to protecting the largest populations of okapi, forest elephants and chimpanzees.

Once a tourist hotspot under Belgian rule until 1961 when DR Congo gained independence, the town of Epulu is centrally located inside the protected area and where the Okapi Conservation Project is based, along with the ICCN headquarters for the Okapi Wildlife Reserve.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) Okapi are well known for the white stripes on both their front and back legs. The fur that makes up the white stripes is longer than the rest of brown coat, and helps to regulate their body temperature in the rainforest; 2) A single okapi can eat over 43 kg (95 pounds) of leaves per day. Currently, there are no captive okapi located at the Okapi Wildlife Reserve headquarters in Epulu, but in the past, the population of 14 captive okapi could consume as much as 600 kg (1,323 pounds) of leaves a day; 3) *The OCP staff hang bundles of leaves between the trees, letting the okapi browse from section to section.* All photos © Okapi Conservation Project

In 2016, the OCP launched a camera trap program aptly named ‘Team Okapi’ consisting of a group of ICCN rangers, local people and Pygmy guides to place camera traps in strategic locations around the reserve to understand what species exist nearby, the number of individuals, and any other natural history or interesting knowledge gained from capturing stills and video clips from the motion-sensing cameras.

'Team Okapi' set up the initial phase of the camera trap study © Okapi Conservation Project — ‘Team Okapi’ set up the initial phase of the camera trap study in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve © Okapi Conservation Project

It is possible to identify individual okapi based on their markings, as each okapi has a unique pattern, like human fingerprints. Camera trapping has the potential to be very useful in determining okapi population size and enhancing current population estimates, as before camera traps the populations were estimated using dung counts.

So far, the results have been fantastic! After a few trial-runs of learning how to use the cameras, Team Okapi was able to capture the first-ever footage of an okapi feeding in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and more recently, the first-ever footage of an okapi calf in the wild.

Okapi mother with calf — Even though it is challenging to see an okapi in the wild, you can find them in several zoos around the world. Here Meghan and mum Oni enjoy the sunshine at the London Zoo © ZSL London Zoo

We believe this calf to be the offspring of a pregnant female that was captured on film in December, and that she gave birth immediately following the footage – and a mere two months later the mother and her calf casually strolled past the camera, much to the delight of the team.

See the first-ever footage to be taken of a wild okapi calf below (© Okapi Conservation Project)

The okapi’s life and unique behaviours revolve around avoiding their only natural predator – leopards. As such, when a female gives birth, the calf finds a safe place to nest and remains there for roughly two months while the mother goes off to feed, ensuring her scent stays away from the youngster.

The calf only leaves the nest to feed when the mother calls using infrasonic sound at a level that both humans and leopards cannot hear. After those initial eight or so weeks, the calf begins following the mother, continuing to nurse. This unique behaviour may explain why we did not see the calf for the first few months.

The okapi has been referred to as the ‘African unicorn’. The moniker does not come from the ossicones, but its elusive nature. The okapi was not known to the western world until 1901, and before then were the subject of rumours. The embellished descriptions and lack of sightings gave okapi a mythical quality, and it was not until it was officially identified that the rest of the world learned what an okapi looked like. Photos © ZSL London Zoo & © Okapi Conservation Project

Brief introduction TO the OKAPI

Extracted from IUCN & the Giraffe & Okapi Specialist Group

The okapi (Okapia johnstoni), also known as the forest giraffe, Congolese giraffe or zebra giraffe, is an ungulate native to the central and northeastern tropical rainforest of DR Congo. Although superficially resembling a cross between a zebra and an antelope, the okapi is, in fact, the closest living relative of the giraffe; together they make up the group known as the giraffids.

An okapi’s short, oily fur acts as waterproofing in the damp rainforest environment. Their distinctive stripes are thought to act as camouflage by breaking up the outline of the body in the light and shade of the forest understory and are unique to each individual, which helps with identification. Okapi are one of the few species of mammals where the females are bigger than the males – the average okapi weighs between 200-300 kg. They also get to be around 6.5 feet tall and have an average length of 8 feet! The dark blue prehensile tongue is adapted for selective browsing and can be up to 18 inches (45 cm) in length, long enough that the animal uses it to clean its own eyes and ears.

Watch an okapi using its tongue to clean itself below (© Okapi Conservation Project)

Okapi share several characteristics with giraffe, including bilobate canine teeth and skin-covered, horn-like structures called ossicones, which are only present in males.

Okapi derives from the name given to it by the Lese tribes local to the area of its discovery. They called it ‘o’api’, which is a compound of two Lese words, oka, a verb meaning to cut, and kpi, a noun referring to the design made on pygmy arrows by wrapping the arrow with bark to leave stripes when scorched by fire.

The stripes on the legs of the okapi resemble these stripes on the arrow shafts.

Okapi are a dimorphic species, meaning there are clear visual differences between males and the females. Males have ossicones, which are lacking in females. Ossicones are small horn-like structures covered with skin, extending from the head. Ossicones on an okapi are small, less than 6 inches and point backwards, so they do not get tangled in the dense rainforest © Okapi Conservation Project

ECOLOGY

Okapi are a shy and gentle species which occur in a wide range of primary and older secondary forest types. They are not found in forest-savannah or disturbed habitats near human beings. Their diet consists solely of understorey foliage from the rainforest trees. They prefer treefall gaps for foraging, where they browse on only the young leaves from more than 100 plant species.

Okapi eating leaves in rainforest of DR Congo — An okapi’s diet consists solely of understorey foliage from the rainforest trees © Okapi Conservation Project

They are mainly diurnal but have also been recorded feeding at night. Okapi are usually solitary, and have well-defined, non-exclusive home ranges, averaging 4-7 km² for adult females and up to 10-17 km² for adult males. Daily movement varies between 2.5 km and 4 km for an adult, often following regular pathways through the trees, a trait that makes them vulnerable to pitfalls and large snare traps.

Okapi are thought to be vulnerable to predation by leopards. Longevity in the wild is unknown, but okapi typically live 15-30 years in captivity, becoming sexually mature at around two years of age.

Camera trap photo of an okapi with presumed leopard scar — This camera trap photo shows a male with significant scarring on his rear. It is presumed that this could possibly be from a leopard – the primary predator for okapi in the dense forests of the DR Congo © Okapi Conservation Project

Okapi calves are usually able to stand thirty minutes after birth, but for the first few months of their life spend most of the day hiding while their mothers forage. Infants first defecate 1-2 months after birth, perhaps as an adaptation to reduce the chances of predator detection. One calf tracked by radio-collar was independent at approximately nine months of age.

Preliminary studies indicate that okapi are not highly social animals. While individuals may utilise sections of forest simultaneously, they do not form bonds or tight-knit groups.

Okapi calf frolicking in zoo — An okapi calf, called Meghan, frolics in the sun at London Zoo © ZSL London Zoo

Conservation status

Until late 2013 okapi were classified on the IUCN Red List as ‘Near Threatened’. This was mainly due to a lack of evidence regarding trends in their population.

Studies show a 43% decline within the Okapi Wildlife Reserve between 1995 and 2007, and data from ranger patrols conducted from 2007-2012 suggest this decline may have continued to the present day. In light of this evidence, the okapi has been reclassified as ‘Endangered’ (facing a very high risk of extinction in the wild) on the IUCN Red List. The rate of decline is estimated to have exceeded 50% over three generations (24 years). They face severe, intensifying threats and lack of effective conservation action, and, unless their present rate of decline is halted, extinction is likely.

Range and population

Okapi distribution extends across parts of central, northern and eastern DR Congo. They used to occur occasionally in the adjoining Semliki Forest of western Uganda, where the species is now extinct. The most significant concentrations of okapi occur within the Okapi Wildlife Reserve and Maiko National Park.

Population estimates are not known to any degree of certainty – ranging from ‘over 10,000’ to ‘35,000 to 50,000’. Recorded presence is concentrated in and around protected areas, where surveys are carried out. Much of suitable okapi habitat is poorly studied, due to security concerns, remoteness and inaccessibility.

Additionally, okapi often go undetected because they occur in low densities and are secretive.

Threats

Expanding human populations, deforestation and forest degradation have eliminated important portions of the okapi range, in particular in the southern and eastern Ituri Forest where the species was at one time abundant. Also, in a small area in the southern part of their range, okapi are hunted for their meat and skin by the locals who consider okapi the most prized bushmeat available.

The most prominent current threat to okapi is the presence of illegal armed groups in and around key protected areas. These groups prevent effective conservation action and monitoring and engage in elephant poaching, bushmeat hunting, illegal mining (gold, coltan and diamonds), illegal logging, charcoal production and agricultural encroachment. In a notorious incident in June 2012, armed rebels attacked the Okapi Wildlife Reserve Epula Station headquarters and killed seven people and all 14 captive okapi – since then no okapis have been brought back to the station.

**Left:** *Okapi skin confiscated by ICCN Rangers*; **Right:** *Gold mining camp seen during an aerial survey in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve.* Both photos © Okapi Conservation Project

Final word

“The okapi is a curious animal whose reclusive mystery adds to its allure. Solely living in a country that has struggled with insecurity and poverty, but still a vast and varied landscape rich in natural and cultural resources, the okapi maintains itself as a respected symbol of conservation and hope for the future of Congo’s people. We hope that by protecting the peaceful okapi, we can help bring the country’s citizens together to benefit all people and wildlife.” ~ Lucas Meers, Program Officer for Okapi Conservation Project

Okapi at Epulu Station in DR Congo — An okapi at Epulu Station. This photo was taken before the 2012 attack on the reserve’s Epula Station headquarters by armed rebels © Okapi Conservation Project

ABOUT THE OKAPI CONSERVATION PROJECT (OCP)

The Okapi Conservation Project was established in DR Congo in June of 1987 when the country was still known as Zaire. The project focusses on three issues: wildlife protection, community assistance and conservation education.

The Okapi Conservation Project works closely with the communities around the reserve and the Institute in Congo for the Conservation of Nature (ICCN) to implement its programs. The OCP assists with coordinating wildlife patrols to remove snares, arrest poachers and close illegal gold mines – thus helping to preserve critical rainforest habitat for threatened species.

During patrols, ICCN rangers document all actions they take to protect wildlife and make a note of any sightings or signs of key wildlife species they encounter, including okapi. Data collected on the number and type of species encountered while on patrol helps develop population estimates of okapi, forest elephants and chimpanzees in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve (OWR).

**Left:** A group of *ICCN rangers*; **Right:** The ICCN rangers during training. Both photos © Okapi Conservation Project

The protection efforts are integral to protecting the okapi and the other imperilled wildlife in the reserve, but this is only possible with the support of the local communities that live alongside wildlife. The OCP manages highly successful programs that reduce negative impacts by residents in the forest.

The Community Assistance programs focus on several key components: agroforestry, women’s groups, pygmy assistance, rebuilding water sources, support for health centres and team sports. The programs aim to create positive relationships with ICCN and provide incentives to protect forest habitat through sustainable resource use. The objective of each program is to improve the financial and food security of families, reducing their reliance on bushmeat and involvement in illegal activities. By providing services, opportunities and training for community members, the OCP has been able to improve the quality of life for the people living in the reserve and reduce their exploitation of natural resources.

Our agroforestry program utilises community demonstration gardens and community tree nurseries to engage community members in cultivation practices that are not only sustainable but also increase crop yield by at least 25%. In communities that have gone through the program, there have not been any clearing of the forest outside of the ICCN designated agricultural zones.

The Women’s Groups show an entrepreneurial spirit, working together to start their own micro-enterprises, such as sewing and gardening, thus producing additional income for their families to improve their houses, pay for school fees and healthcare costs.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *The OCP provides sewing machines, supplies and training for the local women to make* *clothing for their families and sell the surplus items for an additional source of income to cover healthcare costs and school fees for their children*; 2) & 3) A significant threat to okapi is the loss of prime habitat through slash-and-burn agriculture. Through the OCP’s agroforestry program, the team works with farmers to reduce slash-and-burn agriculture to protect and enhance the okapi’s rainforest habitat. All photos © Okapi Conservation Project

Conservation education is a key component to the OCP’s conservation programs, enlightening communities to the importance of symbiosis with the environment and being active stewards of their natural heritage. Education in the reserve takes several forms; large scale radio broadcasting, informative posters printed in multiple local languages and classroom lessons with secondary students. Schools are provided with educational materials, from posters that identify the local fauna to curriculum that highlights the value of okapi and their associated biodiversity. Students in the reserve are all exposed to okapi and their conservation, to create conservation ambassadors.

The Okapi Conservation Project was the driving force behind the advent of World Okapi Day, celebrated on October 18th each year. Events like World Okapi Day act as informal education opportunities, reaching further into the community and engaging members that are not reached otherwise.

Learn more about the Okapi Conservation Project below (© Okapi Conservation Project)

The IUCN SSC Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group (GOSG)

The Okapi Conservation Project has been working closely with the Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group – one of over 120 IUCN SSC Specialist Groups, Red List Authorities and Task Forces working towards achieving the SSC’s vision of “a world that values and conserves present levels of biodiversity”. Made up of experts from around the world, the group leads efforts to study giraffe, okapi and the threats they face, as well as leading and supporting conservation actions designed to ensure the survival of the two species into the future. The Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Zoological Society of London (ZSL) are institutional co-hosts of the GOSG for giraffe and okapi, respectively.

Discovering the forest birds of Maasai Mara

Violet-backed starling in Maasai Mara in Kenya — Violet-backed starling © Alisa Bowen

The banks of the Mara River offer ideal habitat for the forest birds of Maasai Mara – and for bird-watchers. What better way to spend those hot afternoons when the plains are sweltering than under shaded leaf canopies. These trees act as a refuge for a variety of mammals who move amongst the towering trunks, keeping cool as they wait for the temperatures to drop out on the open plains.

You may even encounter families of elephants wandering past, en-route to drink from the river, or warthog piglets trotting around in search of fresh grass, while troops of both banded and dwarf mongooses busy themselves looking for beetles and grubs in the detritus layer on the forest floor.

Ross's turaco in Maasai Mara in Kenya — Ross’s turaco © Alisa Bowen

But these riverine forests also offer habitat for a diverse number of forest-dwelling bird species, and some of these species are incredibly rare to see in other parts of the Maasai Mara and even in other parts of Africa. As with all forest species they tend to be very shy and one must really be patient if you hope to catch a glimpse of them, and even more patient if you would like to photograph them.

Such was the case when I wanted to photograph the two turaco species that are usually seen hopping high above in the treetops in search of ripening berries.

Schalow's turaco in Maasai Mara in Kenya — Schalow’s turaco © Alisa Bowen

Ordinarily, this would be a somewhat doomed-to-fail mission, as both species are incredibly wary of human onlookers. But, if you find a secluded puddle of water, hang around because this will be a magnet for thirsty birds, especially in the dry season. I found one such puddle, and I positioned myself and watched quietly as the birds gradually came down through the tangled vines to sip from the cool pool of water. First common bulbuls, then various species of weavers and a few mousebirds gained the confidence to drink in my presence.

African paradise flycatcher in Maasai Mara in Kenya — African paradise flycatcher © Alisa Bowen

I watched the turacos up high through my binoculars and could see that they were panting and knew that they too would eventually come down. And sure enough, they did after quite some time. They didn’t waste a second drinking the water before quickly hopping back up to their sanctuary of the tree canopy.

African olive pigeon in Maasai Mara in Kenya — African olive pigeon © Alisa Bowen

Other forest birds of Maasai Mara that can be seen flitting through the camps include violet-backed starlings that come to feast on ripening figs and other berries. Both African paradise flycatchers and African blue-flycatchers are beautiful residents of these riverine forests.

African blue flycatcher in Maasai Mara in Kenya — African blue flycatcher © Alisa Bowen

Another real gem to spot is the extremely secretive Narina trogons which blend invisibly into the foliage once they’ve turned their emerald-green back to you.

Narina trogon in Maasai Mara in Kenya — Narina trogon © Alisa Bowen

Madagascar

The fourth-largest island in the world, Madagascar is one of the most biologically diverse countries on Earth, home to thousands of plant and animal species, about 80% of which are found nowhere else on the planet. The island’s unique character has led some to classify it as the world’s eighth continent. Incredible and colourful chameleons, eerie-looking fossas, tomato frogs, giant rats, oddly-shaped insects, and hedgehog-like tenrecs are just a few of the curious creatures that inhabit this exotic realm. At the same time, the country’s centuries-long isolation has led to the development of remarkable tree species, such as majestic baobabs. Madagascar is simply breathtaking, and a photographer’s dream come true.
So, without further ado, we present the gallery Madagascar, comprising a selection of stunning photos taken in this unique country, along with interesting facts and some thoughts from the photographers themselves. And they’re not just any photos; they’re some of the special photos submitted during our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions.

A pair of collared nightjars roost on the ground in Madagascar © Aron Frankental (Instagram/afrankental) (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“This photograph was taken in the rainforest of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. It was pouring with rain, but fortunately, I had decided to carry my tripod on the hike, as it was far too gloomy for handheld photography. Even when our guide pointed out the two birds, it was almost impossible to differentiate them from their surroundings. They rely entirely on camouflage and roost in open areas. Our guide pretended to have stumbled on them, but I suspect they roost in the same spot every day, and he knew exactly where to locate them.” ~ Aron Frankental

Brown lemurs search for food on the forest floor in Madagascar © Paolo Torchio (Photographer of the Year 2017 Entrant)

Brown lemurs eat mostly fruit, leaves and flowers, but also sometimes bark. They do not often drink because they obtain most of their moisture from leaves. To feed, they pull a branch to their mouth and eat directly from the branch. They rarely handle their food directly with their hands.

A brown leaf chameleon takes a break while crossing a path in Ranomafana National Park, Madagascar © Alastair Marsh (Photographer of the Year 2016 Entrant)

The brown leaf chameleon (Brookesia superciliaris) is a small chameleon whose appearance mimics that of a dead leaf. It is found along Madagascar’s eastern coast and on the island of Nosy Boraha, and spends its days foraging among dead leaves on the forest floor.

A Verreaux’s sifaka takes a selfie in Berenty Reserve, Madagascar © Gary Krosin (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“I was walking along a path when I came across this Verreaux’s sifaka, which then became intrigued with my camera lens. He could see another lemur – actually his reflection – in the front, nearly hemispheric, glass element of my wide-angle lens. Since he thought it was another lemur, he carefully reached out to touch it.” ~ Gary Krosin

A giraffe-necked weevil in Ranomafana National Park, Madagascar © Alastair Marsh (Photographer of the Year 2016)

Giraffe-necked weevils are no doubt one of the unique insects on Earth. Endemic to Madagascar, they derive their name from an extended neck much like that of the common giraffe. The extended neck is an adaptation that assists in nest building.

A lowland streaked tenrec in Masoala National Park, Madagascar © Deborah Jordan (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

Tenrecs are little hedgehog-like creatures with spikes. As a result of convergent evolution, they resemble hedgehogs, shrews, opossums, mice and even otters. Research indicates that the various tenrec species on Madagascar evolved from a single tenrec that washed ashore from mainland Africa millions of years ago.

Keeping an eye out inAndasibe National Park, Madagascar © Simon Webber (Photographer of the Year 2016 Entrant)

Madagascar is home to around 50% of the world’s chameleons. One hundred fifty chameleon species inhabit the island, which has a diverse range of habitats, including desert and rainforest. Most of the island’s chameleons are forest floor dwellers, as opposed to arboreal. The Malagasy have some colourful expressions regarding chameleons, one of them being “Ratsy karaha Kandrondro”, which translates to “ugly as a chameleon”.

Fossa having a hard day in Ankafarantsika, Madagascar © Frank Scheelings (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“The fossa was walking along the track towards us and promptly decided to flop down for a siesta. He was completely oblivious, if not contemptuous, of us.” ~ Frank Scheelings – Read more interesting facts about fossas here

A little boy stands behind a fruit stand at a roadside market in central Madagascar © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

“With its unique landscapes, flora, and especially fauna, Madagascar is certainly one of the most exotic destinations that any international traveller could visit in their lifetime. The one thing that stood out for me on my trip was the kindness of the country’s people. I am usually quite shy about photographing people during my travels for fear of intruding, but this little boy was so proud to show me his family’s fruit stand that I couldn’t resist. You can only imagine his face when he saw the photo on my camera’s display!” ~ Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

A ring-tailed mongoose in Amber Mountain National Park, Madagascar © Kathy West (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

The most common native carnivore of Madagascar is easily recognised by its bushy, ringed tail, after which it is named. The Malagasy ring-tailed mongoose is the size and shape of a typical mongoose, with a low-slung body, short legs, a small, pointed head and rounded ears. The pads of its feet are large, smooth and hairless, providing it with remarkable arboreal agility.

Moments before dusk at a swamp near the ‘Avenue of the Baobabs’ in western Madagascar © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“When visiting the Allée des Baobabs in Madagascar, one late afternoon, my biggest dilemma was where to position myself to photograph this mystical spectacle of colours, shapes, and scenery. The sun sets quickly, so I had to make the most of the occasion. After many shots of the backlit line of trees, and once the sun had already disappeared, I started to walk back for some final photos of this unique, baobab-flanked, dusty ‘allée’. That’s when I realised just how beautiful this water hyacinth- covered swamp with the baobabs and the purple sky in the background looked.” ~ Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

Mother and baby brown lemur in Madagascar © Gerrie Rall (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

“During a late September visit to Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, this brown lemur allowed us to take a photo of her baby. The brown lemur is one of 101 species of lemurs in Madagascar and is considered to be a true lemur from the genus Eulemur.” ~ Gerrie Rall

A day gecko sunning on a palm leaf after the rains clear in Andasibe National Park, Madagascar © Jennifer Vitanzo (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

The Madagascar day gecko is a diurnal subspecies of geckos. It lives on Madagascar’s eastern coast and typically inhabits rainforests, where it dwells in trees and feeds on insects, fruit, and nectar.

A female crowned lemur rests in Ankarana Special Reserve, Madagascar © Kathy West (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

Crowned lemurs are mostly diurnal animals, which means they are active during the daytime. They are found only in a very small area at the northern tip of Madagascar. They prefer dry, deciduous forests and mid-altitude rainforests. They are social animals, usually living in groups of 5-6 (at most 15), led by dominant females.

Muddy roads near Farafangana, Madagascar © Žiga Lovšin (Photographer of the Year 2017 Entrant)

Madagascar’s summer (November – March) is considered the wet season. It rains throughout the island, although the arid west and southwest do not experience ma rains. From January to March, heavy rain occurs, and most parts of the country are difficult to access as roads become muddy and impassable.

A leaf-tailed gecko in Masoala National Park, Madagascar © Deborah Jordan (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

As their name suggests, leaf-tailed geckos are named after their broad, flat leaf-like tail. Their cryptic colouring and skin texture resemble tree bark and provide effective camouflage while basking in the sun among the branches.

A Coquerel’s sifaka leaps across the beach in Madagascar © Alastair Marsh (Photographer of the Year 2016 Entrant)

In a single jump, Coquerel’s sifakas can propel themselves more than 30 feet thanks to their powerful hind legs.

SA rhino film wins top awards at US film festivals

Collection of photos showing STROOP film producers receiving awards — © STROOP

Press release by STROOP / JAG Communications

The South African feature documentary STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War has won the coveted Best Documentary award at the prestigious San Diego International Film Festival held this past weekend.

Hollywood’s Mudbound producer Kyle Tekiela presented the award to filmmakers Bonné de Bod and Susan Scott saying, “documentaries tell stories that bring big issues to light and the jury felt this was one of the biggest of them all, that poignantly conveys the struggle the world’s rhinos are having to remain alive for the next decade”.

The weekend was a winning one for the filmmakers as they also scooped an additional two awards – from the LA-based Glendale International Film Festival where they picked the Best Female Filmmakers award (a huge accomplishment given that over 130-films across fiction and documentary were in competition, which meant that STROOP was given the nod across all genres). And – also in LA – from the city’s premiere film festival, LA Femme, which supports women producers from around the world, De Bod and Scott were awarded the Special Documentary of Focus Award.

The previous weekend, the film received another nod in the form of Best Documentary award at the San Pedro International Film Festival, also held in Los Angeles, and last month, STROOP was handed the 2018 Green Tenacity Award by the judges of the San Francisco Green Film Festival.

STROOP, best documentary award at San Diego Film Festival — © San Diego International Film Festival

In recognition of the impact the South African film is having in California, the California Legislature, as well as the State Senator, have sent the filmmakers certificates of recognition from the State of California for outstanding achievements in the cinematic arts, thanking the South Africans for their work in revealing the rhino crisis to the world and contributing to the arts and the Californian community.

Says STROOP producer and presenter de Bod: “Winning these awards has opened up new opportunities to get the film seen around the globe.

“Film festival directors and distributors are contacting us directly because of the buzz around the documentary and to get something this hard-hitting and shocking in front of as many audiences as possible is of course vital for everyone who is concerned about the ongoing slaughter of our dwindling rhino population.”

Adds director Scott: “I do find it incredible and ironic that the state of California is recognising the film in such a huge way, because many times during filming, we were told to put Americans in the film to give relevance for the international audience. But this has connected with Americans precisely because it’s about ordinary South Africans doing extraordinary things for our planet.

“I’m so glad we stuck with keeping the story about our heroes on the ground! These awards recognise their work.”

Film poster for STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War — *STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War* tells the shocking and touching story of the ongoing poaching of rhino and the trade in its coveted horn.

In addition to the slew of awards the film has won, STROOP has been invited to screen at no less than 15 official film festivals, and this number is growing daily as it receives worldwide attention and acclamation.

STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War tells the shocking and touching story of the ongoing poaching of rhino and the trade in its coveted horn. In an exclusive first, de Bod and Scott filmed special ranger units inside the Kruger National Park and at the home of the white rhino, the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park. The pair also travelled undercover to the dangerous back rooms of wildlife traffickers and dealers in China and Vietnam and the result is a powerful, hard-hitting and incredibly moving documentary that will challenge and shock viewers.

STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War will premiere in South Africa later this year.

Awards for STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War to date:

• 2018 Green Tenacity Award given by the San Francisco Green Film Festival
• Best Documentary at the San Pedro International Film Festival
• Best Female Filmmakers at the Glendale International Film Festival
• Best Documentary at the San Diego International Film Festival
• Special Documentary of Focus at the LA Femme International Film Festival

**Watch the trailer for STROOP – Journey into the Rhino Horn War from the Green Film Fest**

Newborn giraffe: Defying the odds

Newborn giraffe with mother — © Samuel Cox

Written by Sophie Brown, photographs by Samuel Cox

The very nature of wildlife means you never know what may be around the corner. This was epitomised during a recent drive on a private game reserve.

It had been a relatively quiet drive when suddenly our guide stopped the vehicle and made a statement I never thought I would have the odds of hearing.

“There’s a giraffe giving birth.”

And sure enough, a brief look to the left showed that very sight.

Giraffe giving birth in the wild — © Samuel Cox

In amongst the acacias, whilst making sure to be in an open area in order to sight potential predators, stood a lone female. Her waters had broken, amniotic fluid pooled on the ground next to her, the beginnings of legs protruding from her rear, fluid still dripping from its hooves.

With the vehicle positioned in the perfect spot and the engine turned off, we waited with baited breath to see how she would react to our presence.

Fortunately for us, she seemed undisturbed and remained calm as we settled into our seats to watch something none of us ever thought we would be privileged enough to see.

Giraffe licking amniotic sac off newborn giraffe — © Samuel Cox

Almost an hour passed and we watched as slowly, through intense strains from the mother, the remaining front legs and head emerged, a mucus plug remaining around its nose and mouth, sustaining its precious life during its arrival.

Then, as the neck slipped out and despite her acceptance of our presence, in a typical wildlife manner she retreated behind a termite mound, her giraffe instincts to hide kicking in. At this moment, the rear of the calf emerged and the newborn made its first contact with the earth, its back legs flailing out from behind the termite mound.

Newborn giraffe sitting on ground with mother licking it — © Samuel Cox

As our vehicle was repositioned, our hearts were in our mouths as the calf stayed still on the ground for what felt like an agonising amount of time. In reality, it was perhaps only a couple of minutes but in that moment time stopped.

Then, a back leg kicked out and a tiny head swung up in an attempt to take up a seated position. Everybody breathed out a sigh of relief.

But now came the next agonising wait. We all knew it was crucial that the calf stood as quickly as possible as in its current state it was in the most vulnerable position it would ever be in. Predators would take the opportunity to take down a newborn giraffe should there be any in the area.

Its mother was as aware of this as we were, and she quickly began licking the calf’s face, ears and neck in order to clean the amniotic sack still attached to the young.

She also began eating the placenta. By doing this, the mother removed the smells of the birth, giving the calf the best possible chance of survival in its first hours.

Newborn giraffe trying to stand up — © Samuel Cox

We watched for an hour as the young calf made failed attempt after failed attempt to stand. With each minute that ticked by, the increasing risk of predator attack was forever on our minds. However, with each failure, he inched closer to achieving his goal of standing.

Newborn giraffe failing to stand up — © Samuel Cox

Finally, with one mighty push, he staggered forward, rocking on his back legs, forcing his front legs up, standing for the first time in his short life.

Despite spending 15 months in his mother’s womb, developing his muscles, the baby trembled with the effort and energy it took him to maintain his standing position.

The sight was the most endearing sight I have ever seen, emotion filling the space as we all willed the calf to succeed in taking his first steps. As his mother began cleaning the remaining fluid from his body, he tentatively lifted his right hooves, replacing them a little further forward, followed tentatively by the left. He had accomplished his first steps. Pride overwhelmed us all.

Newborn giraffe making attempt to stand up — © Samuel Cox

At this point, we left the new family to themselves, emotionally drained and adrenaline pumping.

When we stepped into the game drive vehicle as the sun began to rise that morning, we could never have expected to see such a sighting. The odds of seeing such a sight are truly once in a lifetime with many people never being able to claim to see such an event.

Newborn giraffe standing up with mother helping — © Samuel Cox

It was an honour to watch as his mother expertly cared for her newborn in his first moments, magical to watch as he finally stood and heartwarming to witness his first steps. However, in the back of our minds was the overwhelming knowledge that he would have to continually defy the odds.

He had made it through his first moments of life but he will still have many obstacles to overcome if he is to beat the 50% chance of seeing his six-month birthday, let alone the course of his journey to fully-fledged adult.

By the end of his first day, he would be able to run, and within the next few days his mother would likely join a group of females and their young, and as a group they would work together to raise their young, giving them all the best possible chance of survival.

We hope that he will continue to defy the odds.

Wobbly newborn giraffe standing for the first time in its life — © Samuel Cox

Rhino Dehorning: Tip of the Iceberg

Before coming to Africa, I had little to no knowledge of the constant efforts being made to save our precious rhinos – one of Africa’s most iconic animals. Not long after arriving, however, I had the opportunity to photograph and assist in a rhino dehorning operation, a somewhat controversial method of hopeful poaching prevention, and got to witness firsthand how the process is done.

It was a day full of adrenaline and mixed emotions, and looking back, it is hard to describe all the feelings that came and went while being on the ground and in the thick of such a delicate undertaking.

A black rhino and her calf © Natalia Gaal

Early in the morning, we joined a group of photographers, researchers and vets on the boundary of the reserve. It was cloudy and cold, somewhat symbolic of the harsh realities we were about to face, but there was a sense of excitement too, if not just from the circling helicopter flying low and kicking up dust.
The lead vet had briefed everybody on every detail and aspect of the operation, what we were after, why, and how every step in the procedure was so important. After that run through, we got into our vehicles and waited as the helicopter took flight to find the first patient. Within only a few minutes the radio crackled to life, and we were off…

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *“…there was a sense of excitement too, if not just from the circling helicopter flying low and kicking up dust”*; 2) *The helicopter taking flight to locate the rhino*; 3) “*Dust plumes covered the roads as we drove hastily in convoy to the area where the rhino had been tranquillised from the air”*. All photos © Natalia Gaal

Dust plumes covered the roads as we drove hastily in convoy to the area where the rhino had been tranquillised from the air and approached the scene once the vets had sprung into action.

It was a blur of freneticism, but perfectly organised and communication between everyone was flying as the white rhino lay on the ground surrounded by people who just a few minutes ago were all patiently waiting for the call. Everybody was a helping hand, whether it was carrying heavy equipment, administering antiseptics, supporting a supply of oxygen or applying brute strength to manoeuvring the immobilised giant, so he didn’t lose lung capacity or the feeling in his legs (2,000 kg is a lot of weight, after all).

Rhino being dehorned — Before the chainsaw could be used the rhino’s eyes were treated with a moisturiser before being covered with a blanket © Natalia Gaal

His eyes were treated with a moisturiser before being covered, and the ears were plugged before the buzzing of the chainsaw ripped through the air. It’s impossible to convey how quick this all happened, as before we knew it the horn was being sawed off, with shards and dust flying everywhere.

It initially surprised me to see how much the shards resembled nail clippings, before realising it’s the exact same material after all – keratin.

Rhino being dehorned with chainsaw in dehorning process — Shards of horn fly off during the dehorning process © Samuel Cox

The smell produced during that moment eliminated any feelings of excitement and made me question exactly why we have to do this to these beautiful animals?

That we must take something so iconic and important to them, to ultimately protect them from ourselves. I had to think for a minute about the lengths we go to because of the cruelty of mankind, and seeing the chainsaw, the tubes, syringes and surrounding vehicles caused a momentary emotional retreat from the scene.

**Left:** *“Everybody was a helping hand, whether it was carrying heavy equipment, administering antiseptics or supporting a supply of oxygen”*; **Right:** *A dose of adrenaline is administered to counteract the immobilising drug.* Both photos © Natalia Gaal

After the horn removal, the remaining stump was smoothed down to prevent any future damage, and treated with antiseptic. Temporary orange paint was applied as a marker for the helicopter so they could identify which rhinos had already been dehorned throughout those couple of days in which the operation occurred, and a dose of adrenaline was administered to counteract the immobilising drug. We were back on our vehicles moments before the poor rhino stumbled to his feet, no doubt confused, disorientated, and slightly unamused. It was a beautiful moment to see this animal back on his feet again, but it wasn’t the time to relish the victory as there were more rhinos to find.

This was just the first of many to be done in this reserve.

Rhino being helped by the team as part of a dehorning process — The team had to ensure that the rhino didn’t lose lung capacity or feeling in his legs, manoeuvring him into the best possible position © Natalia Gaal

Throughout the rest of the morning, four more rhinos were dehorned, including a calf, and a few days later a black rhino too.

I couldn’t shake my mixed feelings; pride that what we were doing was for the best, but also shame for us humans being the cause of this pain and suffering. If poaching continues to happen at the rate it is today, soon more rhinos will be killed than are born per year.

**Left:** *After the dehorning the rhino’s stump was smoothed down to prevent any future damage, and treated with antiseptic*; **Right:** *Temporary orange paint was applied as a marker for the helicopter to identify which rhinos had been already dehorned – the paint naturally washes off a few days later.* Both photos © Natalia Gaal

It seems like an impossible task to tackle, with a demand that doesn’t seem to be shrinking. However, it inspires me and reaffirms my faith in humanity when I got to see, document and lend a helping hand to the people who spend countless hours on protecting and prolonging the survival of these animals.

It’s hard to imagine a world without the iconic rhino, and these people who spend their lives fighting for rhinos need recognition and our full and unqualified support.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Natalia Gaal
Natalia Gaal is a Brazilian photographer passionate about wildlife. She graduated in civil engineering but always knew that the big city life wasn’t for her and only truly feels at home around nature. Her main goal is to use her images to spread awareness about wildlife conservation.

Samuel Cox
Samuel Cox originally studied filmmaking, earning a BA Honours degree in filmmaking before moving his sights onto photography. Travelling to Africa since 1999, his passion for wildlife quickly drew him to focus on photographing the diverse wildlife the continent has to offer and has seen his images published online with National Geographic and Africa Geographic, with printed publications in Travel Africa Magazine and BBC Wildlife Magazine.
Wanting to put aside work photographing weddings and events in the UK for a life and career in Africa, he dipped his toes into the water by volunteering with African Impact in Zimbabwe and South Africa – using his camera skills to aid in conservation efforts. Since then, he has joined the team at African Impact in the Greater Kruger National Park as the Photography Coordinator, teaching wildlife photography to international volunteers while also contributing to conservation and local community-based projects.

Celebrating Reptiles

Reptiles are one of the most diverse groups in the animal kingdom. Their behaviours and physical attributes cover a broad spectrum, which is one of the reasons we humans find them so fascinating. While out on an African safari, you will almost be guaranteed to spot some species of reptile, be it a snake, lizard, crocodile, chameleon or tortoise (to name but a few) – it’s like a herpetologist’s dream destination!
In this gallery, Celebrating Africa’s Reptiles, we are taking some time out to appreciate a small selection of those stunning cold-blooded creatures, through the lens of some incredibly talented photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018 competitions. Some of the photos are accompanied by interesting facts and thoughts from the photographers themselves.

? A rock monitor hides in a tree in Ndumo Game Reserve, South Africa © Ernest Porter (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 5 Commendable Finalist)

“I was in Ndumo Game Reserve when a quick movement caught my eye, and I saw the tail of a rock monitor disappear behind a tree. I approached slowly, hoping to find a nice photo opportunity, and planned to intercept it on the other side of the tree. Imagine my surprise when I realised that it was watching me through a knothole! I was very pleased to see that I had a unique image of an often overlooked species. I love the way the rough bark suggests the skin of the monitor, while the eye eerily peers out of an unexpected place.” ~ Ernest Porter

? “The eyes of the desert” – a web-footed gecko in Swakopmund, Namibia © Tyrone Ping (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

“Being nocturnal, these geckos live mostly nestled in deep burrows in the desert sand where there is a moderate amount of moisture during the day. They venture out to the surface only when the desert’s temperature has dropped at night.” ~ Tyrone Ping

? “Narrow focus” in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Nicholas Dyer (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“Walking in Mana Pools, I noticed a martial eagle having a tussle with something in the distance. I walked over quietly to get a better look but was too noisy, and the bird flew off. On the ground, I noticed a legavaan (rock monitor), clearly dazed but seemingly undamaged. I lay down quietly some distance away, and the monitor composed itself and slowly stalked across the baked earth towards me, tongue darting in and out. It wandered around about for several minutes, unaware that I was there. Its skittish senses soon returned though and realising how exposed it was; it darted up a nearby tree.” ~ Nicholas Dyer

? Tree skink hunting brown-veined white butterflies in the Namib Desert, Namibia © Ettienne Rossouw (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? A large Parson’s chameleon in the Masoala Rainforest, Madagascar © Paolo Torchio (Photographer of the Year 2017 Semi-finalist)

The Parson’s chameleon (Calumma parsonii) is the largest in the world. Found in the lush rainforests of eastern and northern Madagascar, the Parson’s is a magnificent reptile to behold. There are two subspecies of Parson’s chameleon; the Calumma parsonii cristifer grows up to 45cm, while the larger Calumma parsonii parsonii grows up to 68cm – about the size of a domestic cat! Read more fascinating facts about the Parson’s chameleon here

? Getting up close and personal with a puff adder in a reserve in South Africa © Joel Alves (Instagram/joelalves15) (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

? “Black Beauty” at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve, South Africa © Dionne Miles (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“I was staying at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve when I was told that one of the rangers, a snake enthusiast and guide, had rescued a black spitting cobra (Naja nigricincta woodi) from one of the staff toilets. Having never seen one, I hot-footed it over to him and asked if I could take a few photographs. I was thrilled when he said I could go with him to release it back into the surrounding bush. It was such an honour to share a few moments with such a majestic and beautiful creature: an experience I will never forget.” ~ Dionne Miles

? “Crocodile smile” in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Alan Smith (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? Now you see me, and now you don’t – a Peringuey’s adder in the Namib Desert, Namibia © Tyrone Ping (Photographer of the Year 2017 Finalist)

“The Namib Desert is known for its true beauty of shape-shifting sand dunes and the iconic Dead Vlei. We came across this Peringuey’s adder (Bitis peringueyi) beneath the scorching desert sand – a true master of camouflage and desert living. With only its oddly positioned eyes sticking out of the sand, any small lizard who wanders too close will meet an untimely end.” ~ Tyrone Ping

? Up close with a chameleon in Sapo National Park, Liberia © Gianluca D’Amico (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

? A day gecko sips nectar from a succulent plant in Ranomafana National Park, Madagascar © Sarah Zito (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

“I noticed this delightful day gecko sipping the nectar from some succulent plants near where I was having lunch in Ranomafana National Park. I raced off to get my camera gear and managed to get some macro images before he disappeared.” ~ Sarah Zito

? A blue-headed tree agama in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? An African tiger snake on a tree in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana © Fanie Heymans (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

“This African tiger snake, also known as the Eastern tiger snake, was spotted on a tree at Mabuasehube in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. This is a small, slow-moving snake that hunts at night.” ~ Fanie Heymans

? A well-camouflaged male barking gecko in Goegap Nature Reserve, Namaqualand, South Africa © Jörg Jager (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

The territorial calls of the barking gecko can be heard at dusk and on overcast days during the hottest time of the dry Namaqualand summer. The males sit at the entrance to their burrow and emit a “kek-kek-kek” sound for hours on end. Apart from territorial defence, the calls also attract females.

3 Epic safaris to do before you kick the bucket

Not all safaris are born equal. Some are so special by the very nature of what they offer, that even our seasoned teamAG keep them in their personal ‘must-do’ lists. Some refer to them as ‘bucket-list’ safaris; we simply suggest that you really should consider embarking on these journeys before you kick the bucket.

Remember that if none of these grabs your fancy, we can design that safari of a lifetime – just for you. The best time to plan your next safari is right now!

Our 3 epic safaris to do before you kick the bucket are:

Walking with Giants in Tsavo

Join us in Kenya’s legendary Tsavo East National Park as we follow the wise old elephant herds over an 80 km walking route along the Galana River as it winds through the park, from Tabangunji Camp to the park boundary and then onwards by vehicle to the Indian Ocean shore at Malindi.

Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing surely supersedes any previous game viewing experience you may have had, and of course, we’ll also encounter other wildlife such as the famous maneless lions of Tsavo, hirola (the rarest antelope in the world), range-restricted fringe-eared oryx, the weird long-necked gerenuk and many of the over 500 bird species.

Maasai Mara Specialist Photographic Safari

Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests in the famous Maasai Mara in Kenya, with daily game drives into the park from your community-owned safari camp bordering the park (there are no fences). Your small group will enjoy the use of a specially modified photographer’s vehicle and an off-road permit – only available to those who have a proven track record of responsible driving. This off-road permit, issued by the authorities on a trip-by-trip basis, means that the possibility of obtaining unique pictures is significantly higher.

Your basecamp is in a Maasai village, offering a unique and authentic insight into the traditional lives of these pastoral herdsmen. This unique safari offers genuine empowerment for local people, and so helps to conserve the greater Serengeti/Maasai Mara ecosystem. There are no fences between the park and the community land, and the wildlife roams throughout the area.

See this gallery of Arnfinn’s spectacular photos from the Maasai Mara

Mountain gorilla trekking in Rwanda

Mountain gorilla trekking is rightfully heralded as one of the world’s most exhilarating bucket list pilgrimages. And Rwanda is Africa’s mecca for ‘convenient’ trekking – gorillas can be seen within hours of arrival in Rwanda. Volcanoes National Park in northwest Rwanda is prime mountain gorilla territory.

This compact safari can be supplemented with incredible primate viewing opportunities in neighbouring DR Congo. So in addition to mountain gorillas, we could send you to see troops of golden monkeys and track Grauer’s lowland gorillas – the largest and most endangered gorilla in the world. Add chimpanzees and mega troops of pied colobus monkeys and you have the ultimate primate safari!

Kruger’s roaming lions

Kruger Stories written by Linda Oosthuizen

“Never a dull moment in the bush” is something my husband and I tell each other all the time. Well, that is certainly true for the events of a few weekends ago when a male lion got out of our stunning Kruger National Park! People driving on the N4 highway between Komatipoort and Hectorspruit saw him on the side of the road early in the morning. Now that is something you don’t see every day!

Luckily they managed to find the lion and dart it from the SANParks helicopter. At noon the vet and a reporter brought the lion back home to Kruger through the Malelane Gate. The lion was sound asleep in the back of their bakkie! We happen to live at Malelane Gate and I could not resist the opportunity to go and have a look. I could see that they were in a hurry to get the lion released, but they allowed me to take a quick photo before they drove off.

Darted escaped lion sleeping in the back of a bakkie — The Kruger escapee on his way back home, photographed entering Malelane Gate © Linda Oosthuizen

Our escapee looked in excellent condition. He was big! So big in fact that they could not close the tailgate of the bakkie! It must have been a crazy sight: a bakkie driving on the highway with a sleeping lion in the back – only in Africa!

Below is a video of the lion casually walking across the road, before it was safely darted and returned to his home in the Kruger.

Male lion spotted on the busy N4 between Crocodile bridge towards Hectorspruit. Rangers are on the scene. pic.twitter.com/BRoP0ZlIGo

— Yusuf Abramjee (@Abramjee) September 23, 2018

The situation with this escaped lion from Kruger reminds me of a hectic situation that occurred in Lower Sabie a few years ago. I was just a tourist back then, visiting my friends who worked and lived in Lower Sabie at the time:

My one friend was a guide. He had the morning off and we decided to go for a bit of a game drive and explore the area between Lower Sabie and Muntshe Mountain. When we got back to camp, it was all chaos, madness and mayhem.

There was a huge traffic jam on the no-entry road towards the section ranger’s house. People were looking at something through the fence in the day visitors area. We looked at each other, slightly puzzled; a no entry is supposed to be just that: a no entry. What on Earth were all those people doing there then? All of a sudden my friend’s phone started beeping and buzzing nonstop. He had over 15 missed calls and text messages: There were lions in camp!

Lion sitting inside a fenced section of a rest camp in Kruger — There’s a lion in the camp! © Linda Oosthuizen

Apparently, the lions had caught a waterbuck against the fence close to the gate in the early hours of the morning. People leaving Lower Sabie were treated to a very special sighting not even 20 metres from the gate, which obviously resulted in a huge traffic jam. Before long, the lions were completely boxed in by the electrified fence on one side, and cars and safari vehicles on all other sides. From what I heard, the lions tried to get away but they couldn’t. They were totally blocked by people in their cars.

The only way out for the lions was to follow the fence and try to sneak out behind the cars. Something must have spooked the three young lions because they jumped over the cattle grid and ran straight through the open gate and into the overgrown day visitors area.

This meant all hands on deck for all rangers, the duty manager and reception staff. They closed the camp for incoming visitors and issued a warning to all people to stay inside. Especially to the people in the campsite, which is right across from the day visitors area.

This is more or less when my friend and I got back from our game drive. One of the other senior guides in Lower Sabie was already on the scene and so was Steven: a good friend back then and now my husband. They had blocked the road running past the day visitors area from both sides and were keeping people at a distance.

A lion inside a camp in Kruger with vehicles around it — A lion sits on the inside of the rest camp by the fence © Linda Oosthuizen

The SANParks vet was on his way from Skukuza (about an hour’s drive away) with his team. The plan was to dart the lions and to release them back into the bush a distance away from the rest camp and people.

I can only imagine these lions must have been scared with all the commotion and attention all on them, and we were all very relieved when the SANParks vet and his team arrived. Now it was time to get the lions back in the bush where they belonged!

A SANParks bakkie had blocked the no entry on the other side of the fence and was controlling the traffic. One of the vet’s assistants cut the fence around the helipad and they drove in with their Land Cruiser. They found the first two lions quickly and darted them. We had a look at them before the vet’s assistant took them to the bush to release them. It was fantastic to see a lion up close like that. The vet’s assistant was in the back of the bakkie with one of the lions. He explained that they had taken some blood for research and he was monitoring the lions while they were asleep. You don’t want a sleeping lion to all of a sudden wake up while you are right next to it! That would be a bit of a disaster!

A darted lion in the back of a vet's bakkie — One of the darted lions in the vet’s bakkie © Linda Oosthuizen

Unfortunately, the third lion was spooked by the vet’s vehicle and it ran into the staff village. There were not many houses in the staff village and the bush there is very overgrown. Which makes it extremely hard to find a scared lion. So after chatting to the vet, they decided that Steven and his colleagues would walk in one line other from the far side of the staff village to the other end, where the vet and his assistant were waiting with the dart gun. The team hoped to flush the lion out and to also dart him successfully.

At first, they could not find the lion. They had been everywhere in the staff village. The last place for them to search was a particularly dense piece of bush close to where the vet was waiting. They carefully went in there. By the time the vet saw the lion, it was only about two metres away and almost on top of him. No dart will take effect that quickly so, unfortunately, the vet had no choice but to shoot the lion.

This was an outcome that no one wanted. Everybody involved was heartbroken. The rangers, vet, everyone worked so closely together and tried so hard to release all three lions. It all came together nicely with the first two lions but the third one sadly had to be shot.

I have to be honest. I was angry and upset. This all could have been avoided – simply by the onlookers giving those lions some space at their kill. I found a little comfort in the fact that the vet was going to take the lion back to Skukuza. They were going to test it for bovine tuberculosis in lions and use it for other research too. And after this incident, they electrified the cattle grid at the gate. So hopefully this will not happen again.

This incident happened years ago. I have been in two minds about writing about it, because of the sad outcome. But after the escaped lion from Kruger was returned safely on Sunday, I decided that this also was a story worth telling. Even though it only had a happy ending for two of the three lions. That, unfortunately, is also part of the harsh reality of working with wildlife and with animals in general.

Lower Zambezi: where the wild things are

The Lower Zambezi valley, with its majestic escarpment sloping down to meet the river, protects a massive rift in the earth’s crust through which the Zambezi River flows. Over millennia, mineral-rich volcanic soils deposited by the river have given rise to lush vegetation, while the many channels and oxbow lakes attract an array of wildlife.

The 4,092 km² Lower Zambezi National Park lies on the northern bank of the Zambezi River in south-eastern Zambia – downstream of Victoria Falls. Until 1983, when the area was declared a national park, it was the private game reserve of Zambia’s president, which has resulted in the area being protected from the ravages of mass tourism, leaving it a relatively pristine wilderness.

The park itself is surrounded by a much larger Game Management Area (GMA), there are no fences between the two and animals are free to roam throughout the entire area. One of the primary attractions of the Lower Zambezi National Park and the surrounding GMA is its remote location. The escarpment along the north acts as a physical barrier and the bulk of the park consists of hilly ground. As a result, most of the game is concentrated on the valley floor, in the flat alluvial plains beside the deep, wide river.

The Zambezi River in Lower Zambezi National Park — The Zambezi River with the Lower Zambezi National Park lying on its northern bank © Baines’ River Camp

The Lower Zambezi is relatively undeveloped, its beauty lies in its very wildness. The diversity of animals is not as extensive as some other big parks, but the opportunities to get up close to the game are spectacular. The park lies opposite the famous Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, so the whole area on both sides of the river is a massive wildlife sanctuary.

Most visitors arrive by boat or light aircraft. The park’s relative inaccessibility limits tourist numbers. Unless you have some pretty good off-road driving experience and come at the right time of year, it is not advisable to attempt a road trip.

We had felt a bit of an adventure was in order and so had decided to drive…

Five hours from Lusaka, three of which were spent on dirt, we finally reached our destination. A slight ‘issue’ with dirty fuel and a clogged fuel filter had slowed us down just long enough for me to (single-handedly) eat nearly all the snacks I had packed for our road trip… something I was to regret when we arrived at camp and were greeted with a delicious lunch!

Classical Baines

Baines’ River Camp is located just upstream of the park’s boundary, inside the GMA, with spectacular views over the Zambezi River. Named for Thomas Baines, the famous 19th-century artist and explorer, the small and intimate lodge captures the feel of a bygone era with its classic colonial-style buildings and casual elegance.

Zambezi River with firepit in foreground at sunset — The view of the Zambezi River from the firepit deck © Baines’ River Camp

Straight after lunch, we were off onto the river. It was wonderful to be back with all the sights, sounds and smells of the bush around us. Our boat ride took us downstream into the national park, past elephants with babies and pods of hippos, to where our canoes were ready and waiting on the riverbank. Leaving the main river, we headed off down a channel fringed with overhanging jackalberry and Natal mahogany trees. We would re-join the main river at 7 km.

This was some of the easiest canoeing I’ve ever done. I had paddled for all of five minutes when our guide, Luke, informed me that I could put down my paddle, as he would steer and the current would carry us through the channel – so much for getting in any exercise to burn off all those ‘car snacks’ and enormous lunch!

We spent a tranquil afternoon drifting downriver, past banks teaming with birdlife, stopping briefly on an island for a drink to watch the sun set on our first evening in this beautiful park.

**Left:** *Preparing the sunset cocktails* © Sarah Kingdom; **Right:** *An elephant spotted walking through the park’s forest* © Baines’ River Camp

Just as the sun was going down, we heard the hum of an aeroplane approaching and were perfectly positioned to see the regular patrol flight of the Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLZ) plane passing directly over our heads. The park is home to lion, hippo and wild dog, who are all listed as ‘Vulnerable’ or ‘Endangered’ under the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species and are endangered by poaching and the illegal trade in wildlife products.

To counteract this, the CLZ – a non-profit NGO – was set up in 1994 to work to preserve the wildlife in the national park and the GMA (a total area of approximately 9,000 km²). CLZ provides technical advice and support to the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), runs an environmental education programme targeting over 2,500 young scholars a year, and runs a Community Support Programme focusing on human-wildlife conflict mitigation in the neighbouring GMA.

After 20 years of working with local wildlife authorities in the Lower Zambezi valley, the CLZ is now one of the oldest, most well-established and well-recognised conservation organisations in Zambia.

Elephant on the banks of a river with canoe — Canoeing down the Zambezi can provide excellent sightings of wildlife close up © Baines’ River Camp

In the morning we awoke to a river as smooth and shimmering as shot silk, stretching out in front of us, across to the opposite bank. The air was crisp as we set off in the boat, rugged up in blankets, mist rising off the water.

Around 20 minutes and 30 km later, we reached the park’s boundary, stopping briefly while our driver went to sort out entry formalities. A little while later we disembarked from the boat, into our waiting vehicle, setting off for an early morning game drive in the Lower Zambezi National Park.

**Left:** *Buffalo look on as guests from Baines’ watch from a safe distance* © Baines’ River Camp; **Right:** *Lion footprints in the sandy road* © Sarah Kingdom

Within minutes we heard the roar of a lion and saw its footprints on the sandy road. Around the bend we heard baboons raising an alarm call, warning the rest of the troop of a leopard in the thicket. Carrying on we found, in quick succession, the spoor of hyena and then wild dog… with this, we knew we were back in the bush.

A myriad of birds surrounded us; 378 species have been recorded in the park. Red-billed and yellow-billed hornbills swooped through the trees like clowns with their oversized beaks, black crakes flitted on the riverbank, a woolly-necked stork preened itself in the shallows, and one of my personal favourites, the ground-hornbills strode across the landscape like they were heading to an important meeting.

Luke pointed out what was new to me, but apparently not uncommon locally, a pair of collared palm-thrush.

Rounding the bend in a dry riverbed, we stumbled upon a lioness sleeping in the deep wheel ruts left behind in the sand by previous vehicles. The guides knew her and said she had two young cubs that she must have hidden out of sight nearby. We watched and waited for some time, but aside from some tiny lion footprints in the sand, we didn’t see a trace of the cubs. Clearly, they were obeying mum’s orders to stay out of sight.

Spotting some vultures swirling high in the sky, we headed in their direction, eventually reaching the spot they seemed to be concentrating on. The trees were weighed down by lappet-faced and white-backed vultures, but we could find no trace of any fresh kill. We did, however, find the ripe-smelling, month-old carcass of an elephant, rather curiously alongside an equally desiccated crocodile carcass. Luke filled us in on the story: Apparently, a month earlier, the elephant had died of natural causes, the crocodile, attracted by the promise of a feed, had walked from the river to feast on the elephant meat, only to meet his fate in the jaws of a leopard.

Buffalo on riverbank with guests in canoe — Guests watch a lone buffalo on the banks of the river from their canoe © Royal Zambezi Lodge

The rest of our morning was a journey through the picturesque riverine landscape of ebonies, leadwoods, acacias and fig trees, past Natal mahoganies, ilala palms, winter thorns and battle-scarred baobabs, until reaching an oxbow lake, luminously green with water hyacinth, where we stopped for a bush breakfast.

A pod of bobbing hippos watched us and we, in turn, watched an old buffalo chomping his way morosely through mouthfuls of the unappetising water hyacinth.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Hippos in the water hyacinth lake*; 2) *Elephants feeding along the riverbank*; 3) *The river was as smooth and shimmering as shot silk, stretching out in front of us*. All photos © Sarah Kingdom

Sophisticated Anabezi

The next morning came, and we felt as though we were heading off into the unknown – no maps, no signposts and, frankly, no idea. All we knew was that we had approximately 50 or 60 km to drive. We didn’t see another soul along the way, but after three hours and a couple of slightly nerve-wracking wide stream crossings, we arrived at Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp.

Guest tents along the lower Zambezi River © Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp — Guest tents along the Zambezi River © Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp

The camp is located in the stunning and remote, eastern end of the Lower Zambezi National Park, where the Zambezi River and the Mushika River floodplain meet. I could see why the area had been chosen to build the governor’s personal retreat in the days of the British Colony, and we saw the nearby ruins of the now derelict building while out on a drive.

Anabezi is built on raised timber decks and walkways, perched on top of the riverbank with superb views in front and the Zambezi escarpment as a beautiful backdrop.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Relax from the comfort of your tent while watching the wildlife pass by the river*; 2) *A mouthwatering lunch*; 3) *The pool and bar area.* All photos © Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp

From the moment you arrive at Anabezi, there is an atmosphere of understated, unpretentious luxury, with a quiet air of sophistication. We arrived in time for a quick freshen up, and then lunch followed with a ‘power nap’ before heading out on a game drive.

Sometimes on safari, it is easy to forget about the little things, but out on our drive, after we’d had our fill of lions, waterbucks, impalas and other fabulous sightings, Prisley, our guide, switched off the engine and the lights and we sat and absorbed the night sounds of the bush.

The cool air physically pulsated with the chorus of crickets, baboons moaned and complained to one another as they settled down for the night, hippos grunted in the distance… this was the true essence of the bush.

The walkway at Anabezi in Lower Zambezi — The elevated wooden walkway at Anabezi © Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp

It wasn’t only on game drives that we were surrounded by wildlife. All around us in camp we found animals, from a pair of mating lions that had set up their ‘honeymoon suite’ just 60 metres from our room (and remained there ‘honeymooning’ every 20 minutes for the next three days) to elephants just below the verandah at lunchtime and later tearing branches off trees behind us in the dark while we ate our dinner. Hippos had late-night pool parties in the channel below our room.

Walking back to my room from lunch, I was chaperoned by a squirrel who ran the entire length of the elevated wooden walkway, barely a metre ahead of me, spectacularly leaping into a tree at the last minute. While under the walkway a family of warthogs were busy digging up the grass.

We spent a wonderful morning walking in the winter thorn forest not far from camp, accompanied by herds of impala, waterbuck families and an array of birdlife. On the way back to camp we had a spectacular sighting of a leopard resting high in a tree. It was such a clear view that we could even see the two puncture wounds in her shoulder that could have been fatal if they had been a few inches to the right. Eventually, the leopard, bored with our presence, stretched, yawned and climbed down from the tree before sauntering off.

Not to be outdone by the leopard, just before we reached camp, we found a male lion, one of the area’s resident males, lying calmly and conspicuously by the side of the road. After allowing us a leisurely look, he calmly got up and disappeared into the long grass.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Elephants block the road*; 2) *A leopard rests high up in a tree*; 3) *Taking a walk through the winter thorn forest*; 4) *A male lion resting in the shade*. All photos © Sarah Kingdom

Waking from an afternoon nap, I watched from our tent as an elephant pushed his forehead against the trunk of winter thorn tree, persistently shaking the tree to dislodge its seedpods. Once the seedpods had ceased to fall, he delicately collected his prize, one at a time, with the tip of his trunk and transferred them to his mouth.

Watching him eat reminded me that it was time for yet another of the camp’s delicious meals… this time afternoon tea!

**Left:** *A delicious tea-time treat*; **Right:** *The stunning views from the breakfast table.* All photos © Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp

Intimate Royal Zambezi

Our drive back across the park was a lot less daunting now that we knew where we were going. Back in the GMA, we were now staying at Royal Zambezi Lodge, a picturesque, thatched lodge situated at one of the broadest points of the river.

Setting out from the lodge, a sedate afternoon boat cruise soon turned into an unexpected game viewing opportunity when we found seven lions resting on the riverbank. Five sub-adult males and two young females lazed on the banks of the Zambezi. Two of the young males lay right on the edge of the overhanging riverbank, watching us intently, not remotely shy or timid. This particular pride, the guides told us, had swum across the river from Zimbabwe, looking to claim new territory.

Elephants in front of the lodge © Royal Zambezi Lodge

Worn out from the ‘rigours’ of safari life, I decided to take the next day off from boats, vehicles and early morning wake up calls. Waking at 5.30 am – just long enough to push my husband out the door and off on another fishing expedition – I allowed myself a sleep-in, a cup of tea in bed and a leisurely breakfast alone while all the other lodge guests were out doing various activities.

But a day of relaxing did not mean a day devoid of wildlife. While I may have decided not to go to the animals, that did not stop them from coming to me! A precocious young vervet monkey staged an ambush, helping itself to my unattended bread roll while I was distracted at lunch.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *The latest wildlife sightings marked on a whiteboard for guests to read* © Sarah Kingdom; 2) *The incredible view from the deluxe suite’s shady veranda that overlooks the river* © Royal Zambezi Lodge; 3) *Inside the presidential suite* © Royal Zambezi Lodge; 4) *An array of reading material, featuring Africa Geographic’s Yearbooks* © Sarah Kingdom

After lunch, I retired for a nap on the daybed located on our private verandah that jutted out over the wide riverbank. An enormous monitor lizard surprised me by suddenly appearing from underneath the verandah. Not remotely intimidated by me, it took its time thoroughly investigating the area before ambling off.

Once ensconced on the daybed, I had a rather pleasant nap, only stirring to check what was making the rustling noises beneath the deck. This turned out to be two extended families of warthogs, with three large elephants close by.

Our last night in the Lower Zambezi was one to remember. Driving a short distance, downstream from the lodge, we arrived in a clearing where a long, lantern-lit table was set up for a bush dinner – accompanied by a full moon and a blanket of shimmering stars. Lions roared across the water, and we were serenaded by an ‘African choir’ of the lodge staff.

Halfway through dinner we heard splashing behind us in the river and turning saw a lone elephant wading across the river, heading our way, a silvery stream of reflected moonlight in its wake.

I had visions of diners scattering in all directions, but the elephant reached a deep channel in the river and disappeared underwater. Resurfacing, he changed course, heading downstream and leaving our dinner undisturbed — a magical end to a magical trip.

WHERE TO STAY

Are you keen to embark on your own trip to this epic safari destination? Check out our safaris to the Lower Zambezi here. You can choose from ready-made safaris or ask us to build one just for you.

BAINES’ RIVER CAMP
This true colonial-style safari lodge, named after the famous artist and explorer Thomas Baines, offers a wide variety of land and water-based safari activities in and around the Lower Zambezi National Park. The camp can accommodate 20 guests in eight individual suites and a two-bedroom family unit, each decorated with rich, classical fabrics and colourful kelims. Each of the colonial-style safari chalets commands its own view of the Zambezi River from a comfortably furnished, private veranda.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *The verandah offers incredible views of the Zambezi River*; 2) *Each of the colonial-style safari chalets commands its own view of the Zambezi River*; 3) *Each suite is decorated with rich, classical fabrics and colourful kelims*; 4) *The lodge is situated on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, offering an exquisite view towards Mana Pools National Park.* All photos © Baines’ River Camp

ANABEZI LUXURY TENTED CAMP
Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp is a 24-bed camp located on the banks of the Zambezi River at the lower end of the Lower Zambezi National Park. The camp comprises of two common areas and 12 spacious luxury tents on raised timber platforms at the edge of a ridge providing magnificent views of both the Zambezi River and Mushika River floodplain. All luxury tents are equal in size and décor, and each common area boasts a swimming pool, viewing deck, lounges, bar and dining area.

ROYAL ZAMBEZI LODGE
Royal Zambezi Lodge, a spacious but intimate privately owned lodge, is situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River just minutes from the Lower Zambezi National Park and directly opposite Zimbabwe’s famous Mana Pools World Heritage Site. Royal offers the ultimate in luxury and cuisine while enjoying and participating closely in the sights and sounds of the African wilderness. The 15 airy canopied canvas tents nestle under mature trees, and each is positioned for maximum enjoyment of the surrounding views and complete privacy. Natural tones, luxurious textures and comfortable armchairs create a secluded retreat.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, SARAH KINGDOM

Travel writer, mountain guide and mother, Sarah Kingdom was born and brought up in Sydney, Australia. Coming to Africa at 21, she fell in love with the continent and stayed. Sarah guides on Kilimanjaro several times a year and has lost count of how many times she has stood on the roof of Africa. She has climbed and guided throughout the Himalayas and now spends most of her time visiting remote places in Africa. She runs a cattle ranch in Zambia with her husband when she is not travelling.

Kruger 10-year management plan

Kruger National Park landscape — © Simon Espley

SANParks has released its Kruger National Park management plan covering the next 10 years. This 259-page report is essential reading for Kruger fans who enjoy debating the issues that the Kruger management team has to deal with on a regular basis, such as problem-animal management, hotels in Kruger and trophy hunting of free-roaming wildlife on reserves adjoining Kruger.

Of relevance to this report is the previously-released elephant management plan. Please also read Kruger history and future to better understand Kruger.

THE REPORT

SANParks applies a ‘strategic adaptive management’ when managing Kruger, in order to cater for the various demands and expectations placed on them that reflect the relationships between people and natural landscapes. The various Kruger stakeholders have widely varying or even conflicting expectations of the Kruger, and SANParks has to consult widely in its planning and implementation, encourage public participation and be agile and responsive to changing societal values. In this regard, consider the conflicting views about trophy hunting and the expectations of affected communities living near the park versus those of international tourists. Ultimately though, SANParks has to manage Kruger under the legal framework of South Africa’s Constitution and relevant environmental legislation.

Cover image of the Kruger National Park management plan

The Kruger mission statement is a good place to begin understanding management focus:

“To conserve, protect and manage biodiversity, wilderness qualities and cultural resources, provide a diverse and responsible visitor experience, contributing towards social, ecological and economic resilience and well-being whilst strengthening constituency within a unique regional landscape”.

The following 12 Kruger ‘vital attributes’ are identified as being central to how Kruger is managed, and the report analyses each in detail:

1. A flagship South African wildlife attraction and iconic local experience;
2. Diverse and unique visitor experiences across a local and international range of conservation-friendly land uses;
3. Catalyst for tourism and economic development in the region;
4. Recognised international brand and global tourism destination for a unique African wildlife experience in a large and safe protected area;
5. Unique location in a diverse regional landscape with multiple land uses;
6. Multiple rivers across the park, promoting biodiversity and regional socio-ecological connectedness;
7. Largely intact biota and ecological processes;
8. One of the last remaining protected areas in South Africa which contains large undeveloped areas contributing to sense of wilderness;
9. Rich and unique natural, historical and cultural heritage;
10. Well-developed infrastructure;
11. Internationally recognised long-term institutional management experience and reputation affording insight and foundations which support management decisions; and
12. Diverse stakeholder relations and co-operative governance.

Aspects of the report that we found particularly interesting include:

1. The zoning of areas in the Kruger as to the intensity of use: wilderness, remote, primitive, low intensity leisure and high intensity leisure.

This exercise serves as a tool to facilitate the wide diversion of user expectations and to facilitate visitor use without unduly compromising biodiversity conservation. According to the report only 18.59% of Kruger is zoned for tourism use (low and high intensity), and these two zones contain the least sensitive areas in the park. The remaining 81.41% is zoned as wilderness, remote and primitive use. The document covers each use zone in detail.

2. The tourism and commercialisation strategy for Kruger, as guided by the zonal plan above. In this regard, the report advises that: “Importantly, a decision has been taken that no further accommodation development (apart from the current and approved future developments) will take place south of the Sabie River.”

3. The inclusion of private and community land into the Greater Kruger and beyond into Zimbabwe and Mozambique – thereby creating a massive area under conservation, with Kruger at the core.

4. The sustainable use of Kruger resources, such as thatching grass, plant seeds and even the meat from culling and problem animal control events.

5. The management of human-wildlife conflict (HWC) and damage-causing animals (DCA), which the report acknowledges as “problematic and …. contentious”.

6. The annual cost of running Kruger – R1,1bn in 2018/2019, the annual revenue shortfall of R247m, and possible options to fund that shortfall

7. There is a very informative series of maps towards the end of the report.

To fully understand Kruger, please read the full Kruger National Park management plan

Regional map showing location of Kruger National Park — Regional map of Kruger National Park © SANParks – *Kruger National Park management plan*

Video: How cracks in an elephant’s skin keep it cool

An in-depth study of the African elephant’s wrinkly skin has revealed how its intricate design helps to keep the animal cool, protect it from parasites and prevent dehydration.

African elephants are well-known to love bathing, spraying, and mud-wallowing. These behaviours are not just for fun. Indeed, elephants lack the sweat and sebum glands that allow many other mammals to keep their skin moist and flexible.

Furthermore, because of their huge body size, and their warm and dry habitat, African elephants avoid over-heating by losing energy through the evaporation of the water they collect in and on their skin. By covering themselves with mud, elephants also avoid the attacks of relentless parasites and the excessive exposure of their skin to solar radiations.

Researchers from the University of Geneva (UNIGE) and the Swiss Institute of Bioinformatics have now worked out how these cracks, or what at first glance looks like folds and wrinkles, are formed, and how the skin – which is made up of an intricate network of minuscule, micrometre-wide channels – can retain five to 10 times more water than a flat surface would.

Published in a report in the journal Nature Communications, the researchers were able for the first time to show how these tiny channels on the elephant’s skin form, using customised computer simulations that model the growth of the elephant’s skin based on CT scans of the real thing.

The researches found that the elephant’s skin channels are true fractures of the animal’s brittle outermost layer of skin – the stratum corneum. The accumulation of layers of deeper skin as an elephant ages forces the brittle stratum corneum to bend around the mounds, which then cracks from mechanical stress as the elephant moves. These cracks then join to form channels that collect water and help the animal to stay cool.

In this regard, the cracks are not considered to be folds or wrinkles in the traditional sense.

Full report: António F. Martins, Nigel C. Bennett, Sylvie Clavel, Herman Groenewald, Sean Hensman, Stefan Hoby, Antoine Joris, Paul R. Manger, Michel C. Milinkovitch (2018). Locally-curved geometry generates bending cracks in the African elephant skin. Nature Communications. DOI: 10.1038/s41467-018-06257-3

Watch a video showing in detail the skin structure of the African elephant:

Cannibal cobras

Cape cobra eating smaller Cape cobra — A Cape cobra male consumes a smaller male of the same species in southern Africa, a display of cannibalism thought to be rare among the species © Bryan Maritz.

Press release by Ecological Society of America (ESA)

Last spring, researchers in South Africa’s Kalahari Desert found a large male cape cobra devouring another smaller male of the same species. Surprised by the thought-to-be-rare event, they decided to investigate how common and widespread cannibalism was in cobras.

Apart from a few species, scientific understanding of snake diets is lacking. Snakes are elusive creatures that feed relatively infrequently, making feeding observations difficult to come by. Bryan Maritz, a researcher at the University of the Western Cape and lead author of the new study in the Ecological Society of America’s journal Ecology, explains, “This work highlights a renewed effort to meaningfully quantify several aspects of snake natural history, especially in poorly studied regions such as Africa.”

While Cape cobras (Naja nivea) are known to eat other snake species – up to a third of their diet – recorded instances of Cape cobras eating individuals of the same species, known as conspecifics, has been extremely rare. Scientists have treated such reported observations as aberrant behaviour.

Researcher inspecting sociable weaver nest and a Cape cobra — **Left:** Study co-author Robin Maritz inspects a sociable weaver nest for cobras. **Right:** A Cape cobra peers down from a sociable weaver nest © Bryan Maritz

So, what caused this Cape cobra to attack and eat the smaller male of its kind? How often does this happen? Do all cobras take part in cannibalism?

Maritz and fellow researchers in the southern African region were studying resource competition between two African snake species when they saw the rare cobra cannibalistic display that inspired them to conduct the new study. Snakes provide a unique opportunity to examine both cannibalism and when animals hunt and eat snakes (ophiophagy) because of their shape – prey fits easily into the predator’s mouth and body for consumption and digestion.

“Cobras” consist of about 30 species, six of which were included in the study. Results suggest that not only do wild cobras frequently eat other snakes – snakes accounted for 13-43% of all species they consumed – but also that cannibalism may be somewhat common as well, given that five of the six species displayed the behaviour.

Interestingly, Cape cobras ate conspecifics in surprising abundance – the only species they consumed more frequently was puff adders. Additionally, the researchers only found males engaged in cannibalism events, as prey or predator, hinting that this might impact intrasexual competition. This raises the question of whether cannibalism evolved from a male-male combative behaviour, considering that male-male combat in cobras typically includes biting.

Understanding how snakes interact with not only other species but also with individuals of their own, can provide a basis for learning about more complex behaviour in different scenarios. If their ecosystem warms drastically and food becomes scarcer, will snakes engage more often in cannibalism? If cannibalism drives snakes to select for larger sizes, what effect will that have on the other kinds of prey they eat? Maritz hopes that “improved understanding of snake ecology and feeding, in general, will help to highlight the ecological functional roles that snakes are performing in African ecosystems.”

Cape cobras occur are found throughout the Western Cape‚ Northern Cape‚ Eastern Cape‚ Free State‚ and North West Province in South Africa. They are also found in the southern half of Namibia‚ southwestern Botswana‚ and western Lesotho.

Full report: Bryan Maritz, Graham J. Alexander, Robin A. Maritz. (2018) The underappreciated extent of cannibalism and ophiophagy in African cobras. Ecology. doi: 10.1002/ecy.2522

Kenya’s Shaba National Reserve: Wild Africa at its best

Maurice Schutgens in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Shaba National Reserve, deep in northern Kenya’s expanse, is a stunning wilderness area of dramatic gorges, open plains and extinct volcanoes. Made famous by the special bond between man and beast, namely Joy Adamson and the lioness Elsa (subjects of the 1966 film Born Free), Shaba is an incredible destination drenched in history and just waiting to be explored.

I arrived at the entrance to the reserve full of excitement.

“You don’t want an armed guard?” the reserve ranger asked rather surprised after I had signed in.

“No thanks. I do this all the time. I like exploring places by myself. Plus, nothing ever goes wrong!” I replied confidently.

So much for those words…

Land Cruiser in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

The reserve opened up before me. The landscape was staggeringly beautiful. But it was almost completely devoid of life.

I saw a herd of nervous Grevy’s zebras, a couple of gerenuks sticking out their awkwardly long necks from behind some bushes, and a lone male waterbuck eyeing me suspiciously.

Waterbuck in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

It was strange. Across the road in Samburu National Reserve I would have tripped over a hundred elephant trunks already, but here in Shaba there was nothing. Maybe it was seasonal. Still, the park’s beauty was undeniable – wild Africa at its best.

Landscape in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

I parked my Land Cruiser and climbed a nearby hill to take in the views from above. I spotted a small herd of buffalo in the distance as the wind tore at my clothes. It didn’t get better than this.

Naturally, that’s when things went sideways.

Dried up lake in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

The car didn’t start. Excellent. Just excellent. I looked down the valley in the distance searching for a sign of life. Nothing. I hadn’t seen a single other vehicle the entire day. I was on my own. I got to work.

An hour later, caked in oil and dirt, I threw in the metaphorical towel. I had fiddled with the battery terminals, bled the fuel from the filter and generally aimed a bunch of obscenities at my car. He’s called Ali. He wasn’t having any of it. Try as I might he wouldn’t start. A plane passed low overhead, I waved, but the pilot didn’t as much as tip the wings to acknowledge me. He disappeared into the halo of the sun.

Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

I was out of options. I climbed a nearby hill and waited, scanning the horizon. Nothing. Suddenly, a glint in the distance. Then it vanished, almost as if I had imagined it. I rubbed my eyes. Then it reappeared. A car. It did not come my way, but I had a feeling that I could intercept it if I was quick.

I headed for a track in the distance.

“Do you guys mind giving me a jumpstart” I asked politely, breathing heavily.

The Dutch tourists in the car were as surprised as anyone to find another Dutchman in the middle of the African wilderness. They couldn’t really say no to my request.

River in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Bodich Mountain towered over my campsite on the banks of the mighty Ewaso Ng’iro River that night. A large Nile crocodile slipped into the water, disturbed by my presence.

I awoke at midnight and photographed the stars. It was a peacefully magical night. A leopard roared nearby. Shaba was alive and I loved it.

Nile crocodile in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

As I headed back out of the reserve in the morning I spotted a leopard’s tracks in the soft sand clear for all to see.

Somewhere in this barren landscape a predator still roams.

Tent and Land Cruiser in Shaba National Reserve in Kenya — © Maurice Schutgens

Etosha through my eyes

There is a distinct excitement in the air as we make our way through the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern side of Etosha National Park in Namibia. The sun has just risen, dappling the mopane shrubs lining the road in mottled shades of gold and green.

Barely a few minutes into the park, and we are greeted with the astonishing sight of a large martial eagle sitting on the carcass of a Damara dik-dik, the second smallest antelope in Africa. The guide tells us that this particular eagle specialises in preying on the diminutive dik-diks.

Cheetah walking in Etosha National Park — “I see you too!” in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Dave Gale

Our senses heightened by this bizarre encounter, we head to Klein Namutoni, the first waterhole on our journey. Luck is with us today; there is a pride of lions lying close to the water’s edge, claiming the waterhole for themselves and keeping everyone else at bay. The male is draped over the remains of a wildebeest, chewing away on a leg and keeping a beady eye on two opportunistic black-backed jackals hovering in the background. A few giraffes are standing in the distance, casting a wary eye in the direction of the lions, while some impala and kudu cautiously mill about.

We are in absolute awe of these beautiful, powerful predators and of the eternal cycle of life and death so vividly depicted before us. Shutters are clicking away wildly, and the lions are oblivious to the interest they are generating.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lions on giraffe carcass* © Janine Avery; 2) *Male lion resting after feeding on a giraffe kill* © Bart Breet; 3) *A ‘whispering’ lion couple in strong wind* © Johan J. Botha

Etosha is a stronghold for lions, with an estimated population of 450 to 500; a significant drawcard for tourists and certainly one of the many reasons I return again and again.

The summer temperature is rising; it is late November, and 40°C is on the cards for this time of year. It is advisable to bring plenty of sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, insect repellent and long, loose clothing to keep the heat and mosquitoes at bay. The winter months are considerably cooler, but still reach 25-27°C during the day.

The lions stroll to the shade of the nearest tree, leaving the carcass for the cleaning crew to finish. Our driver-guide is dispensing water bottles and cold drinks from a well-stocked cooler box, and suitably fortified, we make our merry way to Chudob – one of my favourite waterholes in Etosha due to its size and the sheer abundance of animals that congregate there when water is scarce elsewhere.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *A spotted hyena takes a mud bath* © Natasha Culver; 2) *A black rhino is photographed through the legs of an elephant while drinking* © Johan J. Botha; 3) *A leopard pauses to rest and survey his territory on a road marker* © Andrea Dekrout; 4) *An eland and giraffe drink together* © Johan J. Botha; 5) *Springbok at Fishers Pan* © Anja Denker; 6) *A mature bateleur defends its territory at a waterhole* © Johan J. Botha

Several people seem to have the same idea, and we manage to jostle into position, the height of our open game drive vehicle a distinct advantage and guaranteeing us the best possible view of the waterhole. It’s mid-morning, and Chudob is teeming with wildlife.

Herds of zebra are milling in the distance, with a motley crew of impala, springbok and kudu quenching their thirst at the water’s edge. Dense flocks of red-billed queleas are descending in a flurry of wings, jostling for space amongst double-banded sandgrouse and guineafowl. The cacophony of their wingbeats and chirping is deafening.

An eland bull and oryx emerge from the dense mopane shrub, and a warthog mom trots towards the water, with four piglets in tow.

Suddenly, there is a collective “Ahh” from everyone in the parking lot, as a black rhino emerges from the distant line of trees! He breaks into a trot, making a beeline for the water, scattering the jittery antelope into a panicked stampede in the billowing white dust.

**Left:** *The view from Namutoni camp* © Christian Boix; **Right:** *Elephants at the Halali waterhole* © Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Lunchtime beckons, and as we head back to the lodge, we make a final detour via Fisher’s Pan, named after Lieutenant Adolf Fischer, who was stationed at Namutoni during the 1880s. During the rainy season, which usually starts in December and can last until April, Fisher’s Pan is a haven for several wetland and migratory bird species, especially the flamingo.

Namutoni © Namibian Wildlife Resorts — Namutoni camp © Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Now bereft of water, the pan is a vast flat white expanse in a shimmering haze. A lone elephant is the only sign of life on the pan, which is flanked by undulating fields of yellow grass.

Cheetahs love to frequent the area, and it was not more than a few weeks ago that I was privy to seeing one of them use one of the many termite mounds frequenting the landscape as a scouting point for possible prey opportunities.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A cheetah* sentinel near Fishers Pan; 2) *Elephants and zebra at the Nebrowni waterhole*; 3) *Photographing elephants at Okerfontein*. All photos Anja Denker

Back at the lodge, a dip in the sparkling blue pool refreshes body and mind, followed by a delicious light lunch and a brief siesta in the tastefully decorated and air-conditioned room. Yes, life is indeed good.

The afternoon game drive starts early and is scheduled to take us to the various waterholes in the Halali region, one of the three main camps in Etosha.

The Goas waterhole does not disappoint. A breeding herd of elephants congregate around the wide, blue expanse of the waterhole. The youngsters are frolicking in the water and wallowing in the mud. A pair of mating lions is reclining in the shade of a huge purple-pod terminalia (Terminalia pruniodes), and a motley crew of spotted hyenas are fast asleep a little distance away, while a few scattered springbok remain vigilant.

Elephant herd at Goas in Etosha National Park — Elephant herd at the Goas waterhole © Anja Denker

The access road winds around the two water sources, allowing for fantastic sightings of animals drinking and moving to and from the water – game viewing at its best, and one of the things that makes Etosha so very special.

High hopes are set on tracking the resident female leopard at the Rietfontein waterhole, which she has been frequenting for quite some time now. She is a formidable huntress and habituated to vehicles. We wait for a while, binoculars scanning the area. No luck this time, and we move on.

At Salvadora waterhole, a bull elephant is dowsing himself in white mud from the pan, giving him a distinct ghostly white appearance. (The Nebrowni waterhole near Okaukuejo is another fantastic place to spot the famed ‘white’ Etosha elephants.)

Salvadora offers a stunning vista of the pan stretching far into the distant horizon and derives its name from the evergreen mustard tree (Salvadora persica) found in the area. It is one of my favourite waterholes, and as we gaze out over the vast expanse of the pan, I reflect on the many unforgettable moments I have experienced here – from lions killing zebras to a cheetah chasing across the plains and those unforgettable sunsets as the red sun melts into the distant horizon.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A black rhino chases away a curious lioness* © Simone Basini; 2) *White rhino and calf against the backdrop of the pan* © Anja Denker; 3) *A cheetah cub guards its kill* © Manuel Graf

We have quite a distance to cover back to our lodge, and soon the night shift of aardwolf, bat-eared foxes, aardvark, and small-spotted genets will make their appearance.

We have one last surprise in store. Driving past Rietfontein in the dying light, the Rietfontein female leopard makes an appearance, surveying her domain in the golden glow of the afternoon sun with no other vehicle in sight. It was breathtaking!

Female leopard in Etosha National Park — Rietfontein female leopard © Anja Denker

We are stunned into silence, and the atmosphere on our game drive vehicle as we leave is one of contentment and wonder, brought about by the shared experience of fabulous game viewing, surprises, breathtaking scenery of contrasts and colours, wide-open spaces and the smells and sounds of the African bush. The essence of Etosha.

Etosha is the perfect year-round destination, with each season having its particular charm and beauty. I cannot think of a time in the park where I have not had memorable encounters.

Pangolin walking through Etosha National Park — “Pangolin landscape” in Etosha © Anton Kruger

About Etosha National Park

Etosha is a wildlife-rich, arid savannah that is wrapped around an enormous salt pan, which floods to various degrees during the rainy season. The gravel roads are in good condition and easily navigable in sedan cars, making it the perfect location for a self-drive Namibia safari. Expect excellent sightings of lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas, and also expect to get very close to elephant, giraffe, zebra, rhino, springbok, black-faced impala, gemsbok and other species. At the same time, you relax at the waterholes waiting for the animals to come to drink during the dry winter season from May to October. Etosha has approximately 340 bird species, including the kori bustard – the world’s heaviest flying bird.

There is basic self-catering and camping accommodation inside the park, with very popular night-time floodlit waterholes. Still, we recommend staying in one of the private lodges based just outside the park, where you can go on night drives and bush walks, which are not permitted inside the park.

Etosha is an easy drive on tar roads from Windhoek, but many choose to fly directly to the park when planning a trip to Namibia.

SEASONS

The best time to visit the park is during the dry winter season, when many animals are concentrated at waterholes, and the grass is low, providing better viewing.

Winter: May to October is the dry season, when Etosha sees the most action as wildlife congregates around the waterholes. This is the busiest season for visitors, who are attracted by the mild weather and better wildlife sightings.

Summer: November to April is the rainy season, with January and February generally enjoying the most rainfall. This is also when temperatures rise to 40° Celsius, and visitors should take precautions against the intense sun. It is in these months that the usually dry salt pan of Etosha floods and is transformed into an exquisite birder’s haven with thousands of flamingos and migratory birds. However, it is harder to guarantee game sightings during this period, as the widespread pools of water mean that animals do not need to visit the waterholes. Many of the larger mammals, such as elephants, move towards the eastern side of the park at this time, especially the Namutoni area, as it receives more rainfall than the western/Okaukuejo area.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Anja Denker

I follow the wild things… “When a person starts to talk about their dreams, it’s as if something bubbles up from within. Their eyes brighten, their face glows, and you can feel the excitement in their words”. ~ John C. Maxwell. This quote pretty much sums up my passion for wildlife – especially lions – and nature. I have always followed a career in the arts, from fashion design to postage stamp design, before taking up wildlife photography – the camera firmly welded to my hands ever since! Living in Namibia, the country of my birth, I strive to convey emotion through my work, whether in photography, visual art, or words.

Social media’s role in advertising illegal wildlife trade, including cheetah trafficking

Cheetah in cage, illegal wildlife trafficking — Eight cheetahs were seized in two raids in Somaliland in August © Cheetah Conservation Fund

Press release from Cheetah Conservation Fund

An analysis of Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) research establishes that dozens of cheetahs are being advertised for sale each year via popular social media platforms. Further, it infers the Internet’s role in driving the trade of cheetahs is prominent, and engaging social media companies should be part of any solution. The analysis, which covers the period between January 2012 and June 2018, aims to determine the extent to which illegal cheetah trade exists online and to document the most relevant threats.

Cheetahs are listed under Appendix I of the Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES). This means trade in wild-born cheetahs is permitted only in exceptional circumstances. However, CCF data analysis shows that 1,367 documented cheetahs were offered for sale through 906 adverts, which is approximately one-fifth (20%) of the world’s remaining wild cheetah population. Cheetahs are on a swift decline, dropping from an estimated 100,000 individuals a century ago to fewer than 7,500 today.

The most utilised platforms are Instagram, 4Sale (a mobile app) and YouTube, comprising fifteen countries. However, the Gulf Cooperation Council accounted for over 90% of the adverts, with Saudi Arabia totalling more than 60% of those. The analysis focused on the three top sellers, all of whom are based in Saudi Arabia and posted 20% of all adverts. Of these sellers, one alone accounted for 12% of all adverts analysed and was found to offer multiple species that include lions, tigers, jaguars, wolves, gibbons and chimpanzee.

These two cheetah cubs, kept in appalling conditions, were confiscated in Somaliland © Cheetah Conservation Fund

“The illegal trade in live cheetahs impacts the smaller, fragmented populations in East Africa most. Mitigating the threat requires a concerted effort by governments to not only to confiscate the animals but to embark on a major awareness campaign to reduce demand for endangered species as pets”, said Dr Laurie Marker, CCF Founder and Executive Director. “Already vulnerable cheetah populations, particularly those in Ethiopia and Somalia, are at risk of local extinction because of poaching for the illegal pet trade”.

CCF estimates put the number of smuggled cheetahs out of East Africa at 300 per year. Many more die before being shipped to the Middle East.

“CCF maintains a ‘safe house’ in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland, where a team of animal keepers are caring for eleven confiscated cheetahs. Eight were confiscated within a three-week period, and two were just three-weeks-old when intercepted. One of the youngest died a few days after confiscation”, said Patricia Tricorache, CCF’s Assistant Director of Illegal Wildlife Trade.

CCF has been working to counter poaching and trafficking since 2005. Since 2011, CCF has assisted the Somaliland government with the surrender or confiscation of 50 cheetahs. On 28 August, a landmark victory was achieved in Somaliland courts when two subjects charged with wildlife trafficking were sentenced to three years in prison and fined $300 USD and their vehicle seized – the first conviction for illegal cheetah trade in Somaliland.

Dr Laurie Marker with the surviving cheetah cub rescued from poachers in Somaliland © Cheetah Conservation Fund

ABOUT CHEETAH CONSERVATION FUND (CCF)

Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) is the global leader in the research and conservation of cheetahs. Founded in Namibia in 1990, CCF maintains a research programme studying the biology, ecology and genetics of the cheetah and operates the only fully-equipped genetics laboratory at an in-situ conservation site in Africa. CCF has created a set of integrated programmes based on this research that addresses threats to the cheetah and its entire ecosystem, including human populations. CCF operates from the principle that only by securing the future of the communities that live alongside the cheetah can you secure a future for the species.

Video: Searching for the elusive green-breasted pitta

A green-breasted pitta in Kibale National Park © Christian Boix

Written, and photographs, by Christian Boix

I am standing still, deep inside Uganda’s Kibale National Park. It is dark, way too early in the morning, and a lush canopy above my head mantles today’s dawn. There is an eerie and almost deafening silence, unlike the conspicuously noisy forests I have visited in West Africa, South America and southeast Asia.

My aim today is to listen out for the green-breasted pitta, to track it down to its perch and stealthily approach it to take a decent photo. I tell myself to stay focused – perhaps my luck will change today. I close my eyes and scan the silence with my ears. I am listening for a quasi-imperceptible frog-like “proop”, from somewhere in the forest canopy. The call itself is a rather subdued tremolo – more like a frog than a bird.

So how then was this bird ever found in this forest you may ask? And why have only a handful of birders ever laid eyes on a green-breasted pitta before? The answer is truly charming…

The re-discovery of the green-breasted pitta in Kibale National Park, as told by Ranger Harriet Kemigisha

“I was a ranger guide in Kibale National Park, mostly taking out clients for birding and chimpanzee tracking in this beautiful rainforest. On June 21st 2005, I had a group of six clients which I took out for chimpanzee tracking.

We came across a fruiting fig tree (in an area well-known to us guides) where we found chimps feeding high up on the fruits. We watched them for about 30 minutes until they all descended and started walking on the ground at a very fast pace, so we decided to follow them. Somehow I lost sight of them, but I could hear them calling from a distance of about 300 metres. Blindly following the chimps we had wandered off the trail and were now thoroughly lost!

The good thing was that I had a radio and was able to get in touch with my other colleagues in the forest. I called Godfrey and talked to him in our local language Rutoro, to make sure that the clients don’t know that we were lost in the forest.

‘Nyowe Mbuzile nabagenyi timanyile ambilendi’, I said to him, which basically means: “I am lost with visitors and I have no idea where I am”.

He told me to walk towards the sounds of the chimps, which I did, all the while making sure that my clients thought their guide was looking for more chimps and not totally lost.

As I walked in the direction my colleague gave me, I spotted a beautiful bird hopping on the ground like a thrush. I turned to my clients in excitement and said, ‘That’s a pitta!’. My clients were not interested in birds at all and they ignored my pitta.

I kept watching the bird as it carried nesting materials, but my clients were impatient as they were only interested in seeing the chimps. We continued following the calls of chimps until we ended up at the same fig tree where we were at before, to find more chimps feeding. We were not lost anymore!

This helped me to estimate the distance from where I had seen the pitta. We walked back to Kanyachu visitor centre and I shared my good news of the pitta and quickly picked up the bird book to properly identify it – but the book only had one species of pitta – the African pitta, which didn’t look like the one I had just seen in the forest.

I called Hassan Mutebi, who had left Kibale a few days ago with a Spanish birder Ignacio Ufera. I told him that I had seen a pitta but did not look like an African pitta. Hassan shared the news with his client and they immediately changed their itinerary and came back to Kibale the next day.

I guided them to the exact spot where the bird was and we all started looking on the ground when I heard Ignacio shouting, ‘I have seen it, there are two!’.

Since then, the news of the green-breasted pitta in Kibale has spread all over the world. Pitta experts say that this is the most difficult and unknown species of pitta in the world.

After this discovery, there was an increase of birding groups to Uganda by 80%, and I was getting many bookings for guiding from various birding groups – and with each group I successfully located the pitta.

I have now learnt the pitta’s various behaviours, from feeding and breeding, to displaying and territories. I feel like I know this bird like I know myself.”

And that is how the green-breasted pitta became a traceable species in Kibale, part luck, part know-how and a healthy wallop of grit, determination and birding passion.

So here I am in Kibale, with Harriet as my guide. It’s my sixth time trying to catch a glimpse of this iconic species. I have prayed to each and every birding god I know for assistance, as I am not sure I can handle being stood up yet again. As it is, this pitta already holds the dubiously honourable rank of number ONE African bogey bird in my books, a title am hoping to lose today.

Timing is key, for hearing its call is essential to narrowing down the search area. They are most likely to call in (February and June) and one is more likely to hear it when the forest is quiet, in the morning, just before the usual dawn chorus – at other times forest soundscape drowns out the soft call. Alternatively, they are known to breed in June-July and the bird guides in Kibale have realised how sought-after this bird is, and have developed a stellar approach to showing nesting couples to clients, from a safe distance, without affecting breeding. Outside of these months, one has almost no chances of catching a glimpse of this bird on the forest floor.

Suddenly, there is a subdued and distant “proop”, and we all lock onto the sound. Torches off, and with brisk but mindful steps we close the gap. Harriet orchestrates the best approach, knowing already which individual it is and his perching preferences. It takes another 5 or 6 “proops” for the bird to drop off from the canopy, and soon enough the “prooping” emanates from a mere five metres off the ground and right in front of us.

“Scan that tree,” Harriet orders.

And my word… after two sweeps my eyes land on a mossy, sunlit branch where the distinct shape and colours of my quarry appear as if by magic! Seconds later I see the coveted ‘twitch’ display, as it hops into the air whilst “prooping” and claiming stake to this patch of forest.

I am elated, excited, riveted as I absorbing every second and my brain buffers as it downloads the sights and sounds of this stunning bird and its stellar display. For the next 20 minutes a number of sun-flecked branches are used to call and display, until the bird eventually drops to the forest floor. And disappears.

We relocate it, and follow it for an hour. It is easy to lose sight of this dumpy, thrush-like bird – as colourful as it is. Green-breasted pittas will dash from one dappled shadow to the next, slaloming past sun flecks on the forest floor, revealing itself on its own terms. Like a puff of smoke, this Houdini will evaporate from plain sight as it blends into the background, and appear yonder as if to tease you. It is clear to me that one cannot observe a green-breasted pitta if it does not want to be seen. Needless to say, one needs to be focused and save the blinking for later.

Stealth is paramount. Maintaining the right distance, pre-empting its next dash, and understanding the terrain are important factors to consider in order to get a decent, prolonged view. One wrong move, and it will disappear, or worse, it will flush and fly into a densely wooded area, or straight up to the canopy. Gone.

Thank you Harriet, for sharing your forest, knowledge and awesome green-breasted pitta.

Watch the green-breasted pitta in action, filmed by Christian Boix in Kibale National Park – don’t forget to turn up the sound to hear the “proop” and the chimps!

Should you be interested in trying your luck on a ‘Pitta Quest’, have a look at our 4-night itinerary here, and do not hesitate to contact us should you require further information. Whether it is African (Angolan) or the green-breasted pitta, we will do our best to deliver.

The best time of the year to see green-breasted pittas is mid-June, July, August, and February/March, plus early April.

There are two pitta species in Africa, and approximately 42 elsewhere in the world, mostly in southeast Asia. They are all drop-dead gorgeous, but the African representatives are much harder to find (in my opinion).

Djibouti: Adventure in the Horn of Africa

Man and camel in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

The Horn of Africa brings to mind treacherous coastlines patrolled by AK47 wielding pirates, unforgiving desert plains and fiercely proud tribes. And there is Djibouti, a land of stark beauty with blinding salt flats, mysterious moonscapes, petrified forests and remote mountains hidden away, far off the beaten track, waiting to be discovered.

It was hot. I didn’t need to hear the expletive escaping my brother’s mouth to confirm this as we descended down the plane’s steps. Nor did I need to double check my Lonely Planet copy which helpfully stated, “May-Sep: Some like it hot… some like it hot.”

Landscape of arid Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

It was the first week of July. It was no less than 50 degrees Celsius. I could barely breathe. We found temporary respite in the airport. We spotted no other tourists; it looked like we had Djibouti all to ourselves. The perks of travelling in the low season.

We had no plan, just a vague idea about what we wanted to see in the next six days. Our French was terrible, my only carefully rehearsed phrase being, “What type of beer do you have?” It was not used much. Still, this was Djibouti and there was nothing that couldn’t be fixed.

Landscape outside of Djibouti City — © Maurice Schutgens

Salah, a friend we made on the plane, soon hooked us up with Ibrahim who had just started his own business venture aptly named “Ibrahim Tours”. We were to be his first customers as we sketched out an itinerary with hand signals on a dirty napkin in Club Ethiopia (a place with the only affordable beer in town).

“There is nothing out here.” I mused as I stared out of the window as our Land Cruiser ate up the sands of the desert.

Limestone landscape in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

All signs of life had disappeared the moment we left the outskirts of Djibouti City, morphing into the barrenness of the Gran and Petit Barra depressions. It was a parched landscape etched with intricate patterns into the clay, windswept over millennia. It seemed unending.

As the sun dropped low over the horizon a land of pre-historic limestone chimneys emerged in the distance, rising from the desert carrying with them the angry heat from the depths of the earth. Our skilled Afar guide, Abdul, carefully navigated us through the quicksand-ridden expanse on unmarked roads. We watched the resilient Afar herdsmen stand guard on hilltops and draw near in a cloud of dust guiding their cattle to the precious water, a lifeline in these parts. Humanity can carve out an existence in the most extreme of places.

Driving in the arid desert of Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Lac Abbe was not a place for the faint-hearted. Lightning ravaged the skies and the wind tore at our clothes as we slept under the stars. In the morning, the thick mist obscured the chimneys as they hauntingly emerged and disappeared at a moments notice. Lac Abbe was positively apocalyptic in every sense of the word.

Lac Abbe in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

We left Lac Abbe behind and headed for Lac Assal, a crater lake located in the centre of the country deep in the Afar Triangle, known to be many times saltier than the ocean.

At 150m below sea level it is the undisputed lowest spot on the African continent.

Author at the shoreline of Lac Abbe in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

A storm loomed large over the lake as we arrived at the blindingly white salt flats. The turquoise waters danced in the wind as we carefully stepped into the shallows. The salt was sharp like razor blades under our exposed feet. I screamed into the wind. I felt alive.

As night fell our Land Cruiser crawled its way up high into the remote Goda Mountains in search of the settlement of Dittilou located on the border of the famed Foret du Day.

We arrived deep into the night at a local camp and sleep came easy. The morning revealed the most incredible mountain vistas.

Dittilou in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Hiking deep into the mountains in search of plane crashes and waterfalls was a privilege. Our journey continued on to another settlement in the mountains: Bankouale, a place where the elusive leopard is still said to roam.

Driving towards the settlement of Bankouale in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

We left the mountains in our wake as we headed for the gritty Port City of Tadjoura, Djibouti’s oldest town, once ruled by the mighty Sultans of the gulf.

Today all that remains is camel strewn streets and a brand new Chinese port that sees no ships.

Another mystery that we weren’t going to solve that day – instead we headed for Sables Blancs, a beach only accessible by a steep ramp from the plateau above. The water was magical.

Sables Blancs in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Djibouti is a place like no other. It’s a place made for the intrepid traveller who is searching for an experience that’s different and untouched by mass tourism.

Make no mistake, Djibouti is outrageously expensive but would I go again…? Probably!

Local on a mountain in Djibouti — © Maurice Schutgens

Celebrating Etosha

Etosha National Park in Namibia is the perfect year-round destination, offering unique experiences in each season. It is one of Africa’s top safari destinations and a photographer’s dream – probably one of the best places in Africa to photograph wildlife, whether you’re a beginner or an expert. Elephants, zebras, black and white rhinos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, herds of springbok, giraffe, and wildebeest all call Etosha home in plentiful numbers. The landscapes are also spectacularly photogenic with wide, vast vistas, and barren salt pans under stunning blue skies. In this gallery, we are celebrating Etosha in all its glory with a selection of incredible photos by Simone Basini, a guide, wildlife photographer, and a Photographer of the Year competition entrant, from his time in Etosha.

“During the dry season, elephants travel long distances to reach the water. The excitement of this herd is palpable as they approach the Okaukuejo waterhole in Etosha National Park.” © Simone Basini

“These three cheetah cubs were busy learning how to pierce through the thick skin of a black-faced impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi) carcass, while mom was resting close by after the successful hunt.” © Simone Basini

“This lioness was stalking towards a springbok in the vast open plains of Gemsbokvlakte in Etosha. She was also lactating – a sign that her cubs were probably hidden close by.” © Simone Basini

? “Near the Nebrownii waterhole, an elephant used his foot to pull out a root from the ground. In the dry season, when there is less foliage, elephants tend to eat more stems, barks and roots.” © Simone Basini

“I took this photograph while en route to Okondeka. The sun was shining, but under the thick cumulonimbus clouds in the distance, you could see the thunderstorm approaching.” © Simone Basini

“A black rhino pauses while crossing the northern grasslands.” © Simone Basini

“This lone lioness had a perfect throat clamp on this springbok. It takes exceptional skills to ambush prey in the vast plains of Etosha, where there is hardly any cover to hide behind.” © Simone Basini

“A rare sighting of a bachelor herd of greater kudu out in the open on the banks of the Etosha Pan, on the Onkoshi side. After an excellent rainy season, part of the Etosha Pan becomes a lake once more.” © Simone Basini

“An adult Damara dik-dik, with a height of just 40cm, is the smallest antelope to be found in Etosha. This photo was taken at sunset close to Klein Namutoni.” © Simone Basini

“Churning up clouds of dust, these two bulls were so intent on fighting that they paid no attention to the nearby predators.” © Simone Basini

“Giraffe and ostriches stand tall against the white of the Etosha Pan in the Wolfsnes area.” © Simone Basini

“This lioness caused all of the animals at the Bitterwater waterhole to scatter when she started to pick up speed.” © Simone Basini

“Springboks wading at Chudob waterhole.” © Simone Basini

“This giraffe took great care to make sure that there were no predators nearby before she splayed her legs to reach for the water – this is the most vulnerable moment for a giraffe.” © Simone Basini

“On the edge of the Etosha Pan, a small group of wildebeest appeared as if they were suspended in time.” © Simone Basini

“These two black rhinos’ reflection was in near symmetrical perfection, and lasted for only a few seconds.” © Simone Basini

Botswana elephant poaching debate: Wildlife vet speaks his mind

Elephant herd crossing delta in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Opinion post by Dr FJ (Erik) Verreynne – a wildlife and livestock vet with a post-graduate wildlife management degree, who has been practising in Botswana since 2002.

Driving on the white gravel road from Seronga, past Eretsha, Betsa and Gudigwa, to the village of Gunostoga in the northwest of Botswana marks the boundary between the flood plains of NG12 to the south and the dry mopane veld of NG11 and NG13 in the north. The Namibian border is roughly 80km to the north. To the north from here, along the Caprivi strip, is one of the areas reported to contain the so-called strewn carcasses of the many poached elephants.

There is no better area to seek perspective on the BBC article where Elephants without Borders raised the alarm on large numbers of elephants being poached in Botswana.

Gravel road to Gunotsoga in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

The gravel road connecting the area is here because the people are here. And the people are here because the water and the floodplains are here. And so are the wildlife. It has been like this for many years, long before the areas to the south and east were re-classified as photographic safari areas. Long before local people were stopped from hunting or herding their cattle to the apple leaf sandy ridges to the south.

People were and are still working their fields in the wet season, or herding their cattle on the floodplains during the dry season. They are fishing from mokoros and harvesting reeds for building shelters and houses.

Cattle herd in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

The elephants have always been here, mixing with people and other wildlife and taking chances with raiding crops. But they were perceived as much less of a menace then, reportedly because they were fewer in number. In general, people got by without major issues and life at large was peaceful. NG12 was a controlled hunting area, and elephants and other wildlife were hunted in a controlled manner, supervised by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, while communities benefited either directly or indirectly by means of employment, money or meat.

The nearby open international borders posed a poaching threat and the Botswana Defence Force was deployed along the border after two recent episodes of near-total extinction of rhinos by poachers.

It all changed a few years ago when the hunting of elephant and other wildlife in the area was banned. The ban was put in place after little consultation, motivated by blaming dwindling wildlife numbers on overhunting with no tangible evidence of real cause. Hunting concessions were then converted into photographic safari concessions.

Photographic tourism was subsequently greatly promoted, and labelling Botswana as a safe haven for elephants and rhinos was at the core of the tourism marketing drive. Elephant population numbers were manipulated and inflated to as much as 200,000 to celebrate the conservation success and to lure more people. Tourism, as one of the main earners of foreign exchange, grew tremendously and surpassed agriculture as part of the GDP, while the influx of elephants resulted in dispersal all over Botswana, causing widespread human-wildlife conflict and vegetation damage, and placed enormous strain on Botswana’s compensation and anti-poaching resources.

To achieve greater control over the nature-based tourism growth process, wildlife resources were centralised, and local responsibilities and benefits were largely taken away from the communities. The benefits of tourism only benefited a few large companies, leaving the communities behind with the stark reality of the sheer number of elephants (and predator conflict). While the world was celebrating Botswana tourism stakeholders with rewards and accolades, the picture in rural Botswana looked quite different – that of locals paying a high price.

Elephant damage to a tree in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

So here is part of that dark picture. This remote area, which Thalefang Charles refers to as “Overseas”, has about 16,000 people and 18,000 elephants. More than 16,000 cattle graze the floodplain between Seronga and Gudigwa. Small settlements dot the area between the villages all along the road, on the floodplains and into the dry north.

Elephant corridor sign in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

As you drive along the road, signs by a conservation NGO indicate the elephant corridors that the elephants use to reach the water on the floodplain. This is to prevent future development but does not safeguard the houses and fields already established in the way of the ever-increasing elephant herds.

To some extent, these signs are rather ironic. The short stunted mopane shrubs strewn with skeletons of large trees interspersed with well-worn elephant paths and heaps of elephant dung where they cross the road is stating the obvious.

Stripped vegetation due to elephants in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

As the rain-filled waterholes in the north are drying up, the elephant herds need to walk south to the floodplains to drink every day, not only intensifying the human-wildlife conflict, but causing an ever radiating devastation to the vegetation which is now also starting to affect the large trees on the islands of the floodplains.

They arrive at dusk and leave again at dawn, preventing human movement in the dark. Where it used to be only elephant bulls hanging around on the floodplains during the day, now some cow herds do not leave, staying close to villages and preventing free movement of people from working their fields or tending to their livestock – even during the daylight hours. For not only water, but also browse is getting scarce in the north. And the crop-raiding during the rainy season has escalated and some people have stopped planting.

Vultures eating elephant carcass in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Close to the road on the floodplain near the village of Gunotsoga lies the carcass of a female elephant, with vultures cleaning the hollows in her skull where her tusks have been removed. This is the matriarch of a small herd. She killed an old man on the road three weeks ago. He left on foot for the village from his settlement at about six in the morning but never got there. His mutilated body was found next to the road by a passerby, with the story written in the sand – a tale of unprovoked fury by the cow elephant.

She must have been enraged by a very bad experience with people. She charged at him from nearly 80 metres away, tusking and tossing him several times before rejoining her herd far on the opposite side of the road. She was shot by an officer of the Department the same day, and the tusks removed for safekeeping. The community was furious about the killing of the old man, and two other elephants were apparently killed shortly after by community members in retaliation, the bodies left with the tusks intact…

Rural village in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

So back to the BBC article and the pure hate and condemnation it has provoked from some circles. Allow me some perspective while remembering the souls of the old man and the elephant matriarch, and so many old men and elephants in villages all over the north of Botswana. No good will come from their deaths if it based on lies.

Firstly, the anti-poaching units were never disarmed. Their military weapons were removed as it is against the law in Botswana and they are already assisted by the Botswana Defence Force which is suitably armed and equipped. The APU’S still have their semi-automatic weapons. So blaming the poaching on the “de-weaponising” of the law enforcement agencies is not factual or logical.

The areas in question are close to the Namibian border, and away from the core areas usually covered by the APU’s where a number of Defence Force Units are already deployed. Despite the presence of these units, the alleged killing of such large numbers of elephants in such a short period of time was not noticed. Some areas involved are prone to anthrax-related mortalities. As such the spatial and time scale claims, and the cause of mortality as claimed by the BBC report, are to be questioned.

Furthermore, the statement that the scale of poaching recorded by EWB was not witnessed before, seems sensation driven since East Africa lost 30,000 elephants per year (80 per day) not so long ago.

Botswana does not approve of poaching on any scale. Our past track record is proof of that. But Botswana as a safe haven is a marketing stunt. It does not exist and will never exist because no such haven country exists anywhere in Africa.

With the number of elephants in Botswana, the scale of human-elephant conflict, the geographical challenges and the regional onslaught, it is inevitable that we will experience a degree of poaching. And poaching will most likely increase. But with an annual elephant population increase of 5%, on 154,000 elephants in Botswana, even the BBC reported poaching rate is insignificant and will not threaten elephants as a species in Botswana. To hold Botswana responsible for the conservation of the whole African elephant population is unfair.

No international vocalisation will reduce the scale of poaching in Botswana. Poachers do not read newspapers or Facebook. It is our responsibility and we are not afraid to take it on. That also includes admitting when things are not working.

The previous exclusive conservation policy has now been proven to be disastrous and very expensive to our national budget. Not only the elephants, but also people and other species like the rhinos in the Delta are in jeopardy.

Tree damage due to elephants in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Change is imperative and you need to give us that chance.

We need to shift the emphasis of our poaching mitigation in Botswana away from our ability to arm our APU’s or to ban hunting, or even on the size of the tourism industry. We need to base it on our ability to restore a safe and stable rural, political and economical environment combined with pragmatic conservation measures where local communities are part and parcel of the responsibilities and benefits of sustainable conservation.

We also need to redefine co-existence – not to fulfil a western conservation doctrine, but to include a workable definition based on sustainability for communities and wildlife.

Culling the elephants is not a solution due to the numbers involved. As such the proposed lifting of the hunting ban will not negatively affect the numbers. The annual elephant trophy hunting quota for Botswana never exceeded 400 animals per year, complemented by a small number of citizen hunting licenses. But hunting may provide a fast track to tangible benefits for the hardest-hit communities until a better sustainable solution can be established. And hunting in hot spot conflict areas may induce elephant movement out of those areas, as has happened in neighbouring range states (to our detriment).

Additionally, we need to shift the emphasis of our tourism marketing drives.

For too long we have built our nature-based tourism industry on a false illusion of “pristineness” that excludes any signs of human existence. It is these illusions that allow for the current hype of emotions based on misleading reporting. The wilderness areas in Africa were never without people and will never be without people. By excluding people, and allowing elephant numbers to get out of hand in Botswana, we are running the risk of losing more elephants and other wildlife through the conflict, poaching and starvation than are sacrificed through hunting. And I dare not imagine the cruelty that goes with that scenario.

At the same time, we should educate tourists to accept that people and livestock are part of the environment and the safari experience that they are paying for.

Our President needs support in his conservation approach. He does not deserve the condemnation that followed the BBC article. If any are to be blamed, then perhaps look at neighbouring elephant range countries and their lack of taking responsibility for their own elephants.

It is the right of Batswana to live in a safe environment. It is embedded in our Constitution, as it is in most countries’ Constitutions. And to impose measures that we can afford. Only when we are feeling safe and secure will we be able to conserve our rich wildlife heritage. And for now, we are threatened by our own success.

Give us some room? Change is never without pain. Especially to those who benefited most in the past.

Elephant feeding in Botswana — © Erik Verreynne

Kenya’s Lion Guardians

Dawn is just breaking when Kamunu Saitoti sets out across the Amboseli bush in search of lions. At first glance, he appears much like any other Maasai warrior: Lean and tall, his dark red shuka is wrapped around his torso and waist concealing his only weapon, a long knife with a simple wooden handle. Brightly coloured beads adorn Saitoti’s neck, ears, forearms, and ankles, and his feet, far more weathered than the rest of his body, are only partially covered by dusty sandals fashioned from discarded car tyres.

“I killed my first lion when I was 21,” Saitoti says as he scans the horizon. In all, he has killed five lions. This, he says, was an integral part of his family history, part of being raised as a moran, a Maasai warrior. “My brother and father have also killed lions.”

Maasai Kamunu Saitoti takes meticulous notes about his observations while tracking lions in Amboseli — Lion Guardian Kamunu Saitoti takes meticulous notes about his observations, including GPS readings of animal locations, as he makes his way through the Amboseli rangelands © Marcus Westberg

The Maasai are traditionally a nomadic people subsisting almost exclusively on the milk, blood, and meat of cattle grazed on East Africa’s vast rangeland, amidst what once appeared to be endless numbers of wild animals. In the past, lion killing for the Maasai was as much about tradition as it was about protecting livestock from predators. To hunt and kill a lion was a critical right of passage known as olamayio – how young Maasai males became men. The tradition has also created a powerful connection between warriors and lions, with each young moran receiving a lion name after his first successful hunt. Saitoti’s lion name, Meiterienanka, means “one who is faster than all the others.”

But traditions are beginning to change.

On this day, in place of a spear, Saitoti carries a radio telemetry kit. He unfolds the antenna in a manner suggesting he has done this countless times before and looks around in search of a hill – not an easy task in a landscape as flat as this. He settles for the remnants of an abandoned termite mound and begins to scan for a signal. Once he has a sense of the direction the signal is coming from, he packs away the kit and starts walking, dust trailing his brisk march along the well-used track.

Car tyre sandals — Nothing is wasted in Kenya. Discarded car tyres, for example, have become a popular material for sandals © Marcus Westberg

For the next three hours, Saitoti stops only to look for signs of lions, or to talk to herders. Most tracks he sees are too old to bother with, but as the sun nears its zenith, he finds a set that elicits visible excitement – a departure from his otherwise solemn demeanour. Lion cubs, young ones, and very fresh. Patience, however, will be required here. The narrow trail leads into a maze of dense shrubs, and that is no place to follow a lioness with cubs – even for someone as experienced as Saitoti.

At 36, Saitoti is a seven-year veteran, and one of Kenya’s three regional coordinators, of an organisation known as Lion Guardians. Established in 2007, the program is dedicated to finding ways for Maasai and lions to coexist. At its core is a shift in the relationship between the moran and the lion: Hunters have become protectors.

This profound change in perspective is a critical component of East Africa’s lion conservation efforts. But the Guardians have a lot of ground to cover – just 45 Maasai warriors patrol about a million acres of Kenyan rangelands – and human-wildlife conflict is a bigger problem than one organisation, or one approach, can solve.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lion guardian Kamunu Saitoti and a local community manager analyse wildlife tracks crisscrossing through the dry Amboseli soil*; 2) *Saitoti can determine a lion’s identity, its direction of travel, and how long ago it passed through an area by merely examining its tracks*; 3) *Standing on the remains of an old termite mound, Saitoti scans for a signal. A number of the lions in the area have been fitted with radio collars*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

Lion Guardians is just one of several small- and medium-sized efforts by government officials, NGOs, and locals to reduce human-wildlife conflicts in Kenya and elsewhere in sub-Saharan Africa. As human populations in the region have exploded, consuming increasing amounts of wildlife habitat in the process, the numbers of some of the region’s most iconic and important species have been in steep decline.

Populations of many of Kenya’s large herbivores have fallen by 70 to 90% since the late 1970s. And as their prey has become more scarce, so too have lions. Scientists estimate that lion populations have fallen by more than 40% in the past 20 years, and the 20,000 or so wild lions that remain occupy just 8% of the species’ historical range.

In many ways, the need for such intervention has never been greater. Yet, in a region where droughts are frequent, and famine is never entirely out of sight, finding a path toward peaceful coexistence between herders and the predators that hunt their livestock will require a great deal of persistence, creativity, and a shift in how the region’s wildlife is valued.

**Left:** *For most Maasai, the response to finding a leopard in your goat pen, surrounded by several slain goats, would be quick and straightforward: Kill the leopard*; **Right:** *A traditional boma constructed of wood and thorny branches*. Both photos © Marcus Westberg

Human-wildlife conflict

For most Maasai, the response to finding a leopard in your goat pen, surrounded by several slain goats, would be quick and straightforward: Kill the leopard. There would be no repercussions, as Kenya’s wildlife laws allow citizens to dispatch so-called problem animals. And this young male, like his mother before him, would certainly fit that description. He had been terrorising the village of Ngerende and several neighbouring communities for years, killing hundreds of goats – losses keenly felt in what is one of Kenya’s poorest regions, and a hotbed of human-wildlife conflict.

With the leopard’s paw now caught in the fencing of the pen, or boma, as livestock enclosures are called here, there seemed to be only one possible outcome. But the owner of this particular boma, Mark Ole Njapit, is no ordinary Maasai.

“I understand the value of wildlife for the future of our people,” says Njapit (48), a Ngerende community elder known by most as ‘Pilot’. “Everyone was agitated and wanted to spear it, but I calmed them down and called KWS (Kenya Wildlife Service).” Fortunately for the leopard, KWS officers were treating some elephants nearby and responded quickly. After tranquillising the cat, they were able to cut him free and move him to an area where he would be less likely to get into trouble.

Maasai standing outside new boma — Members of Pilot’s family stand at the gate of his new boma © Marcus Westberg

That was six months ago. Today, Pilot is supervising as members of his village – in partnership with the Anne K. Taylor Fund (AKTF), an organisation working in its own way to reduce human-wildlife conflicts – construct his new boma.

The enclosure they’re building is formidable, with welded corner posts interspersed with termite-proof eucalyptus timber poles, all set in concrete. The chain-link fence is stretched tight, 7 feet above the ground and another foot buried in the soil; the fence is designed to be virtually impossible for a predator to push over, climb, or dig beneath. (While a leopard could easily scale a similar-sized fence constructed entirely of wood, they tend to avoid chain-link fencing.)

Today, after more than two years and nearly a hundred of the latest iteration of AKTF bomas constructed, the program’s record remains intact: Not a single livestock animal protected by one of these enclosures has been killed by a wild predator.

The effectiveness of the new bomas means they’re in high demand. And while AKTF doesn’t usually work in villages as far north as Ngerende, when Pilot reached out, the program’s construction director, Felix Masaku, made an exception.

“Here is a man whose small village loses maybe ten goats a week choosing not to kill the leopard that is doing much of that damage. That is very unusual, and it is important to support this man so others might follow his example,” says Masaku.

Workers stretching out fencing for a new boma construction — Workers stretch out the chain-link fencing for Pilot’s new boma. The construction process typically takes two days, one for setting the posts in cement, and another for attaching the fencing © Marcus Westberg

In general, AKTF priorities cases in which livestock losses have been most significant.

“This is about conservation and co-existence,” Masaku continues. “We want to minimise conflict and retaliatory killings. If someone is losing five goats and two cows every week, that person is more likely to try to kill predators than someone who loses maybe one goat a month.”

By reducing the vulnerability of livestock to predation, this program and others like it aim to reduce, if not eliminate, retaliatory killings, known as olkiyioi. This practice poses a grave threat to lions in particular, especially when angry cattle owners turn to poison rather than spears to wipe out entire prides of lions. In recent years, there have been several high-profile killings. For example, several members of the Marsh pride (of BBC Big Cat Diary fame) were deliberately poisoned in the Maasai Mara National Reserve (MMNR) in 2015, and six lions, including two cubs, were speared to death outside Nairobi National Park in early 2016.

One troubling detail about the slaughter of the Marsh pride members is that it was carried out by Maasai seeking revenge for cattle killed while being grazed illegally inside the reserve. This practice is not uncommon. In fact, a paper published in the Journal of Zoology in 2011 estimated that by the early 2000s, livestock made up 23% of the MMNR’s mammal biomass – up from a mere 2% a few decades earlier. Today, this figure dramatically exceeds that of any resident wildlife species in the protected area except for buffalo. This is as much a sign of declining wildlife populations as it is of human incursions into the reserve, and it underscores significant challenges both in terms of protecting livestock and preventing human-wildlife conflicts.

As Anne Taylor, the founder of AKTF, put it: “Inside the bomas is one thing, but keeping cattle safe if they are literally brought into the lions’ den is virtually impossible.”

Elephants walk through the Amboseli landscape in southern Kenya © Marcus Westberg

Finding a solution

For many Maasai today, lions and other predators have become an expensive nuisance at best, and a source of deep-seated resentment at worst. In general, this resentment is not directed toward the predators themselves, but toward a government – and the world at large – which often appears to place more value on the big cats (and the tourism dollars they generate) than on Maasai lives and livelihoods.

National parks and reserves cover a mere 8% of Kenya’s land area and support only a third of its wildlife. The remaining two-thirds of the country’s wild animals inhabit private and communal rangelands. This is land they share with the Maasai, Samburu, and other pastoral people. Many think it is here, outside of the parks and reserves, that the future of Kenya’s wildlife will be decided.

According to a report co-authored by Panthera, WildAid, and the Wildlife Conservation Research Unit, loss of habitat due to agricultural expansion, which invariably pushes wildlife into closer contact with farmers and pastoralists, is the underlying factor of all major threats that lions face.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *A lion grooms a lioness*; 2) *A cheetah relaxing*; 3) *Spotted hyena with cubs*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

To many, the conversion of unprotected rangelands to agriculture might seem inevitable as the region’s population grows. Still, Calvin Cottar, a fourth-generation Kenyan whose great-grandfather emigrated from Iowa in 1915, disagrees. According to Cottar, it all comes down to economic security.

“We are talking about some of the world’s poorest people,” Cottar says. “For them, it is about survival. Why should we expect them to care about lions or elephants when they are struggling to put food on the table – if they even have a table? Wildlife is costing them money, not earning them money, and that is what has to change.”

Toward this end, while working with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), Cottar initiated several district wildlife associations in an attempt to help landowners acquire ownership rights to the wildlife residing on their lands. Because all wild animals in Kenya have historically been considered the property of the state, benefits to local communities having to co-exist with these creatures have generally been few and far between. Now in his 50s, Cottar says there’s much more to be done. He is more convinced than ever that the future of Kenya’s wildlife lies with the people sharing the land with them – and with a shift in government policy.

“It’s really quite simple,” he says. “We all have to pay for ecosystem services. Pay the Maasai landowners a monthly lease for their land in return for leaving it intact. The problem is that wildlife has no value to them, whereas cattle and commercial agriculture do.”

While removing snares, building livestock enclosures, and monitoring lion populations are all essential management practices, Cottar says, they don’t solve the root cause of human-wildlife conflict. Wild animals are basically a nuisance and a liability to the Maasai, he explains. “We have to make maintaining wildlife the most productive land use, and preferably in a way that respects the Maasai lifestyle and culture.”

Snare being removed by an AKTF team member in Maasai Mara National Reserve — The AKTF team spends much of its time searching and removing snares from inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Although the snares are set primarily to catch herbivores, they are indiscriminate killers, trapping lions, leopards, and other predators © Marcus Westberg

That is why Cottar now finds himself sitting in a circle with perhaps 50 Maasai – young and old, men and women. The topic, just as it has been for the last three years, is the formation of the Olderkesi Conservancy, on the land where Cottar’s safari camp currently stands. In general, the conservancy model consists of land being leased directly from its owners for conservation purposes. Olderkesi is slightly different in that the 100,000-hectare ranch has yet to be subdivided, making it the last communally owned ranch left in Kenya. As a result, the land will be leased from a trust representing all 6,000 landowners, and because the agreement involves the Maasai, a complete consensus is required before anything can be signed. In Maasailand, patience is not so much a virtue as an absolute necessity.

One of the community’s most respected elders joining Cottar in the circle is Kelian Ole Mbirikani (58), a member of the Olderkesi Land Committee and Chairman of the Olentoroto landowners group, which owns the land immediately surrounding Cottar’s camp. He is also one of the driving forces behind the conservancy initiative.

“The Maasai depend almost completely on their cattle,” Mbirikani explains, “so convincing them that it is possible to have both wildlife and livestock at the same time has been our biggest challenge. In their experience, when land is set aside for wildlife, all of the cattle disappear. That’s what national parks do.”
Mbirikani is convinced the conservancy concept can work, though. He and a group of other Maasai travelled with Cottar recently to conservancies as far north as Samburu. There, they saw wildlife and met landowners who are still able to graze their cattle. “The people are really benefiting,” Mbirikani says. “Their children are being educated all through university level with the money from the conservancies. That is what we want for our people, too.”

**Clockwise from bottom left:** 1) *Members of the Maasai community meet at Olpalagilagi Primary School to discuss the formation of the Olderikesi Wildlife Conservancy*; 2) *Saitoti while out tracking lions*; 3) *Calvin Cottar is presented with a goat by the teachers and parents of Olpalagilagi Primary School as a token of their appreciation*; 4) *An elephant looks on as Saitoti tracks for lions*. All photos © Marcus Westberg

There are nine other conservancies around the MMNR, and a handful more in other parts of the country, which all make regular, direct payments to local landowners. Similar approaches have been employed by Wilderness Safaris in Namibia and the Nature Conservancy in the United States, among others. While none of them can be said to offer financial benefits on the same scale as Olderkesi, Cottar is not alone in seeing this as a promising solution.

Indeed, two studies published last year demonstrate the effectiveness of Kenya’s conservancy approach. According to one of these assessments, despite lack-lustre political support conservancies managed to achieve “direct economic benefits to poor landowner households, poverty alleviation, rising land values, and increasing wildlife numbers”. The other study saw a direct positive effect on lion populations within Kenya’s conservancies, with a nearly three-fold increase in just ten years.

However, while these results seem promising, there will always be areas outside of conservancy boundaries – borderlands and buffer zones – where human-wildlife conflict are bound to continue. There’s not enough funding available to expand the conservancies enough to eliminate these conflict zones. The question, then, is whether people can learn to co-exist with lions and other wildlife even when there is no monthly payment to be collected.

The lions and their Guardians

As Kamunu Saitoti waits patiently, hoping to glimpse the new lion cubs when they finally appear from the thicket, he is joined by a younger Lion Guardian, Kikanai Ole Masarie. Not long after, a battered Land Cruiser arrives with one of the organisation’s founders, Director of Science Stephanie Dolrenry. The two warriors pile into the vehicle, and they all set off in search of the cubs.

“These lions are not like those in the parks,” Dolrenry explains. “There’s no tourism here, so they are not habituated to people or cars. We’ll be lucky if we find them at all. They can be extremely shy, especially with young cubs.”

Four lion cubs with mother — The first sighting of lioness Nenki’s four young cubs © Marcus Westberg

But this is a lucky day, it seems. With thorny acacia bushes screeching against the glass and metal of the bouncing vehicle, the team suddenly finds itself in a veritable crowd of cats. Dolrenry, like the Guardians, can identify them all. Mere metres from the car, Meoshi, her three cubs, and her mother, Selenkay, lounge in the shade. A few dozen paces away, but on their way to join them, Meoshi’s sister Nenki with her own four cubs. Much smaller than Meoshi’s, these were the young lions whose tracks Saitoti was following. This is the first time anyone has laid eyes on this new generation.

“Selenkay is a bit of a celebrity around here,” Dolrenry says. “She causes problems like no other lion, but she’s a tough one, and it’s hard not to admire her.”
Saitoti nods. Selenkay is his favourite lion – her guile and tenacity are something to be respected. She and her family frequently target cattle and give the Guardians plenty of headaches. She has been hunted more times than anyone cares to remember. One of her sisters has fallen victim to poison, and so too has one of her mates, while another sister was killed by spear. She has endured three male takeovers and has even attacked a Maasai moran to protect her young cubs. Like the owners of the livestock she frequently kills, she is a true warrior.

But her legacy is far greater than her own reputation. Her longevity, itself the result of the unyielding commitment of Saitoti, Masarie, and the other Guardians and the growing tolerance of the Maasai inhabiting these rangelands, has helped to connect populations in vital conservation areas and has added much-needed genetic diversity to established prides. One of her sons has made it as far north as Nairobi National Park where he is now breeding successfully.

**Left:** *Lion Guardian Kikanai Ole Masarie celebrates the sighting of lioness Nenki’s new cubs with a fresh cup of tea*; **Right:** *A pair of male lions take shelter in the shade of a tree.* Both photos © Marcus Westberg

Saitoti did not become a Guardian because he loved lions. Instead, he was in trouble and needed a job. Arrested for being part of an illegal hunt, his father had to sell three cows to have him released on bail. That made him reconsider his path. Killing lions, despite bringing prestige and honour, also brought hardship.

“For the first two years my feelings about lions were the same,” Saitoti says. “This was just a job. But slowly, things began to change. They give food for my family, and they help educate my children. I even buy veterinary medicine for my cattle with my salary from the lions.”

“And we still get the girls!” Masarie chips in with a broad smile, referring to the social status that killing lions – and, more recently, protecting lions – can bring to a young Maasai man. At 24, he is part of a younger generation of Guardians, and his words are significant, as they hint at an ability for long-held Maasai beliefs and traditions to change.

“The other warriors mostly stay at home, but we are close to the lions every day, tracking them and finding lost cattle. The girls know we must be very brave!” Masarie adds.
Saitoti smiles and continues: “For me, now, I feel there is no difference between the lions and my cows at home. I care about them equally.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Marcus Westberg

Marcus Westberg is an acclaimed photographer and writer, focusing primarily on conservation and development issues in Sub-Saharan Africa. A photojournalism finalist in the 2015 Wildlife Photographer of the Year, Marcus works closely with several non-profit organisations and projects across the continent. He is a conservation and community development advisor for Luambe Conservation in Zambia.

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Exploring Africa’s Oceans Gallery
Home to some of the most spectacular and treasured life, the oceans and seas surrounding Africa contain a multitude of creatures that thrive in the warm and cold currents that run along our continent. Various bodies of water surround Africa – the Mediterranean Sea to the north, the Suez Canal and the Red Sea along the Sinai Peninsula to the northeast, the Indian Ocean to the east and southeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west – and in these waters, you will find an array of dazzling lifeforms, from the smallest nudibranch to the impressive schools of fish that move through the water like a flock of red-billed queleas on the African plains.

GO TO THE GALLERY HERE

DEA announces 2018 rhino and elephant poaching stats to date

The DEA has released its rhino management report for 2018, to the end of August. The report is thorough and worth reading in its entirety. Notable figures coming from the report (this is not a complete summary):

1. 508 rhino were poached in South Africa, compared to 688 for the same period in 2017;

2. 292 rhino were poached in Kruger National Park, compared to 333 for the same period in 2017;

3. 83 rhino were poached in KwaZulu-Natal, compared to 163 for the same period in 2017;

4. Approximately 400 suspects have been arrested (162 in Kruger) on a range of charges including rhino poaching, and 13 wildlife traffickers (five Chinese nationals and eight South Africans) were arrested by the Hawks while en route to China, Hong Kong and Vietnam at the time of their arrests;

5. Elephant poaching is on the increase, with 58 elephants were poached in the Kruger during 2018 to date;

6. Rhino horn trading: Since the lifting of the moratorium on the domestic trade in rhino horn in 2017, a total of 28 permits have been issued for the trade of rhinoceros horns and 12 permits actually granted to 16 buyers for the sale of 1,219kg rhino horn.

Poaching is always worse during the dry season in Africa, when wildlife movements are more predictable (animals seek out remaining water sources) and the bushveld is less dense, so animals are easier to see.

Media release by Department of Environmental Affairs

The South African Department of Environmental Affairs has released a statement highlighting their progress on the Implementation of the Integrated Strategic Management of Rhinoceros. The report back covers the period 1 January to 30 August 2018.

The Integrated Strategic Management of Rhinoceros approach was adopted by Cabinet in 2014 and draws together the work of the Department together with the Justice, Crime Prevention and Security (JCPS) Cluster Departments and Agencies. This is supported by the work of South African National Parks (SANParks), the provincial conservation authorities, the South African Revenue Service (SARS), the Asset Forfeiture Unit, the Financial Intelligence Unit in the Ministry of Finance and National Prosecuting Authority (NPA).

Importantly, the ranger corps continue to play a key role in the conservation of South Africa’s fauna and flora; and in government’s anti-poaching efforts.

Compulsory Interventions

Intensive Protection Zones (IPZ)

The Intensive Protection Zone approach has allowed government to effectively allocate limited resources to ensure maximum protection in areas of greatest importance.

There has been success with the IPZ in Kwa-Zulu Natal (KZN) in particular – as a result of collaboration between the SAPS and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Early detection and rapid response, not just within the IPZ but the parks in general, has been bolstered by the use of additional technology that we have been able to procure with the support of the Peace Parks Foundation (PPF). SANParks continues to provide K9 support as well as personnel training.

The integration of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife within the SAPS National Operation Rhino information gathering, operations and case management system is also proving to be critical.

The collaboration between Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the provincial SAPS KwaZulu-Natal Stock Theft and Endangered Species Unit has also yielded benefits.

Game-changing technological interventions

The Department through SANParks is actively pursuing appropriate technologies as force multipliers. Superior connectivity and situational awareness not only reduces risk to the rangers, it also ensures more proactive engagement and the utilisation of resources in a cost-effective manner.

The Department is currently piloting home grown solutions between the parks as end users, the CSIR and industry; such as a mobile radar system. This system has ensured the decrease of rhino poaching in high density areas by more than eighty percent; and has ensured that the rangers now can dominate the night hours as well.

Operation Rhino

Following on the successes of Operation Rhino 1 to 8, implementation of Operation Rhino 9 is progressing well; operating from the respective Mission Area Joint Operations Centres (MAJOC’s) in Acornhoek, Phalaborwa and Hluhluwe.

Since January 2018 approximately 400 suspects have been arrested on a range of charges including rhino poaching.

Additional successes recorded under Operation Rhino 9 include:

• The initiation of intelligence-driven operations in Mpumalanga resulting in the seizure of numerous unlicensed firearms and ammunition;
• The seizure of an assortment of incriminating evidence, including cell-phones and axes, during arrests;
• Securing a range of sentences following a number of convictions with the maximum sentence being 9 years imprisonment.

Arrests, investigations and prosecutions

Arrests

In addition to the arrests effected by Operation Rhino 9, a total of 13 wildlife traffickers (five Chinese nationals and eight South Africans) were arrested between 1 January and 31 August 2018 by the Hawks. These Level 3 and 4 traffickers were en route to China, Hong Kong and Vietnam at the time of their arrests.

More than 60.92kg of rhino horn was confiscated and linked to poaching crime scenes in KwaZulu-Natal and the Northern Cape.

For the Kruger National Park, the number of arrests of alleged poachers stands at 162 for the period 1 January 2018 to 31 August 2018.

A total of 145 weapons have been seized in rhino-related incidents both inside and outside the KNP since the beginning of 2018; and a total of 83 rhino horn confiscated in the same period.

It is still of concern that our own personnel are being arrested for rhino poaching related offences. Since January, four officials have been arrested by SANParks enforcement staff in the Kruger National Park for poaching-related offences. These include members of the SAPS and the SANDF.

Since SANParks introduced integrity management throughout the organisation to support ongoing anti-poaching efforts, a number of officials have been dismissed following disciplinary processes. A number of these have also faced criminal charges.

Investigations and Prosecutions

One of the challenges facing new enforcement when it comes to poaching-related offences is that suspected poaching kingpins and syndicate members hide and even dispose of the proceeds of their alleged activities as a result of lengthy trial delays. A welcome development is that a number of rhino poaching related cases are now being dealt with by the Asset Forfeiture Unit (AFU).

Investigations

There are currently 530 rhino poaching related cases on the court roll involving 750 accused and 1,738 charges.

Close to 300 of these cases are trial-ready.

The charges range from rhino poaching, to rhino horn trafficking, to the illegal possession of firearms and ammunition.

Some of these high-profile cases include:

I. State v Groenewald and 8 others (Pretoria High Court) Trial date: 1 – 12 February 2021
II. State v Ras and 9 others (Pretoria High Court) Trial date: 7 December 2018.
III. State v Gwala and others (Mtubatuba Regional Court) Trial date: 26-30 November 2018.
IV. State v Nyalungu and 9 others (Nelspruit Regional Court) Trial date: 23 November 2018
V. State v Landela (Skukuza Regional Court) Trial date: November 2018
VI. State v Ndlovu and others (Grahamstown High Court) Trial date: 26-30 November 2018
VII. State v Petrus Sydney Mabuza, Nozwelo Mahumane, Moshe Thobela and Romez Khoza (White River Magistrates Court). Next court date: 26 October 2018.

Prosecutions

From January to August 2018 a total of 70 cases, involving 163 accused were finalised. The trials have resulted in 93% guilty verdicts, translating to 288 years in sentencing.

Ports of Entry and Exit

The Green Scorpions continue with their work at OR Tambo International Airport and assist the DPCI with cases where illegally traded rhino horn have been detected. To mark World Wildlife Day 2018, the Green Scorpions, Hawks and SARS K9 unit and customs and excise officials participated in an awareness raising day at OR Tambo International Airport, reaching thousands of international travellers as they passed through the arrivals hall.

Training

The Department’s Environmental Management Inspectorate (Green Scorpions) has been regularly training officials based at ports of entry and exit on matters pertaining to the illegal trade in wildlife, such as rhino horns and other parts and derivatives. Over 2,000 officials from 2017 to date have been trained at South African ports. This includes members of the SA National Defence Force (SANDF) responsible for patrolling border lines between ports.

Awareness-raising

Commodity identification manuals, audio visual training resources and awareness material have been developed through a collaborative project between the DEA and the World Wildlife Fund South Africa (WWF-SA) – with funding provided by the US International Narcotics and Law Enforcement (INL). These manuals and associated posters are being distributed as part of an on-going port and borderline training programme and target law enforcement authorities, port operators and road traffic officers.

Joint Operations

In line with the Integrated Strategic Management approach DEA, SANParks and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife have initiated joint planning, and operations to combat rhino poaching.

This includes deployments into provincial parks with rhino populations to provide back up, support and clandestine operations to take place in a joint, but independent, manner.

The placement of Kruger National Park operations staff into provincial parks in KwaZulu-Natal with rhino populations is allowing independent operations to be planned and executed.

In addressing the increase in rhino poaching in the province, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife has also made some critical appointments of field rangers into the Parks which has improved the observation and reaction ability in all areas.

The improved sharing of information between all law enforcement agencies has allowed for more focused prevention, effective investigations, and successes.

Managing Rhino Populations

Translocation

Translocation of rhino has proven to be an effective tool in enhancing the safety of these animals, encouraging population growth and expanding rhino range. The emergence of bovine tuberculosis in rhinos in Kruger, however, has placed some constraints on the full benefits of white rhino strongholds. SANParks is now using innovative ways to overcome risks associated with diseases.

Biological Management

The integrated initiatives of SANParks to manage its rhino population have had varied successes. In our rhino parks that are more than 50,000ha on average, black rhinos of both sub-species are increasing and they now boast 63 south-central and 199 south-western black rhino.

White rhino populations in other national parks are also increasing, with 250 counted by the end of 2017.

In 2017 the black rhino population in the Kruger National Park was between 427 to 586 animals. SANParks’ Black Rhino Guardian initiative has most likely contributed to halting the decline in black rhino numbers in the Kruger National Park.

White rhino numbers in the Park, however, continued to decline, with the population estimated at between 4,759 and 5,532 individuals during 2017. White rhino, unlike black rhino, were affected by the drought – with natural mortalities increasing from 1% to 1.5% during the drought, while the birth rate dropped from approximately 9% to 5% one year after the drought.

Poaching Statistics

There has been a decrease in the number of rhino poached nationally compared to the same period in 2017, with nearly all provinces experiencing dramatic declines.

Between 1 January 2018 and 31 August 2018 508 rhino were poached, compared to 691 for the same period in 2017.

Rhino poaching numbers in the Kruger National Park also continue to decline. In the period under review, a total of 292 rhino were poached, compared to 332 in the same period last year.

This decline comes despite a dramatic escalation in poacher activity inside the Park, ranging from sightings, to poacher camps found, to incursions. A total of 1,873 incidents were recorded in the period under review. This is compared to 1,702 in 2017.

It is also particularly pleasing to note the decline in the numbers of rhino poached in KwaZulu-Natal during the period under review.

In the same period in 2017, 163 rhino were poached, whereas this year the number stands at 83. This is extremely noteworthy and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, working in collaboration with the SAPS, are to be commended.

The provincial and national breakdown for the period 1 January to 30 August 2018 is as follows:

National	2017 (8 mths)	2018 (8 mths)
Kruger National Park	333	292
Gauteng	3	0
Limpopo	54	25
Mpumalanga	31	38
North West	56	50
Eastern Cape	4	13
Free State	28	4
Northern Cape	19	3
KwaZulu-Natal	163	83
Western Cape	0	0
Total	688	508

Regrettably, elephant poaching is also on the increase. A total of 58 elephants were poached in the Kruger National Park between 1 January and 31 August 2018. Specific risk areas have been identified and strategies to address the threat are being adapted and implemented.

Long-term Sustainability Interventions

Export of live rhinoceros

In line with requirements in the Convention for the International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), the Department of Environmental Affairs has recommended the export of a total of 538 live rhino from South Africa since 2014. The exports were both for zoological purposes and for reintroduction to range states.

The majority of the exports (361) were to former and existing rhino range states, including Botswana, Chad, Namibia, Rwanda and Zambia. The translocations form part of the plans outlined in the African Rhino Range States Conservation Plan, which seeks to establish new rhino populations within the continent as well as the African Rhino Conservation Plan.

One such translocation was of six black rhino that were translocated to the Zakhouma National Park in Chad in May 2018. It is the first time in 46 years that there are rhino in Chad.

The remaining total of 177 rhino were recommended for export to non-range states in North America, Asia, Middle East and Europe.

It should be noted that the export of live rhino from South Africa to international zoo facilities is restricted to facilities that are either members of the World Associations of Zoos and Aquaria (WAZA), institutional members of an affiliated member of WAZA or an accredited member of a regional zoo association. These institutions must be recognised by the CITES Management Authority of the state of import as a reputable association.

Domestic sale of rhino horn

Since the lifting of the moratorium on the domestic trade in rhino horn by the Constitutional Court in 2017, a total of 28 permits have been issued for the trade of rhinoceros horns.

In terms of the permits issued, 12 permits were granted for the sale of 1,219kg rhino horn, while permits were granted to 16 buyers.

Stockpiles

The Department commenced with full compliance audits on private rhino horn stocks in August 2018. This process will ensure that all audits conducted by the provinces have been correctly done.

The DEA’s Environmental Management Inspectors will ensure that all rhino horns in private possession have been correctly audited by the provinces, including marking with an external number and a microchip and measurements and weights of each horn. It will further be confirmed that DNA samples and photographs were taken of the horns and that the information on the horns is correctly entered into the National Stockpile Database, either through the Department’s Electronic Document Management System or the eRhoDIS App (from the University of Pretoria’s Veterinary Genetics Lab). These audits will also include horns that have been traded legally since the lifting of the moratorium on domestic trade.

The rhino horn stockpiles must comply with the Norms and Standards for the marking of rhinoceros and rhinoceros horn and for the hunting of rhinoceros for trophy hunting purposes.

One of the new additions to the soon to be published amended Norms and Standards is the reporting of any rhinoceros mortality, irrespective of the cause of such mortality, as well as the theft of a rhinoceros horn, which must be reported to the permit issuing authority within five working days of discovering the death of such rhinoceros or the theft of such rhinoceros horn. Rhino owners and managers of farms where rhinoceros are kept have to ensure that they comply with the amended Norms and Standards.

Communities

By creating a legitimate economy for communities, particularly those in the rural areas where most of our national parks are situated, it is hoped that people will be deterred from rhino poaching-related activities. Giving them a stake in natural resource management and ownership will enable poverty-stricken communities to access greater economic opportunities. This is one of the aims of the government’s National Biodiversity Economy Strategy (NBES).

The 3rd Biodiversity Economy Indaba (BEI) hosted by DEA earlier this year ended with pledges by stakeholders in the wildlife, bioprospecting and bio trade, and eco-tourism sectors to ensure greater inclusivity and transformation of the sector.

Among the pledges included a SANParks undertaking to donate 3 000 head of game to emerging wildlife farmers and communities in the next three years, the pledge to donate 1,200 head of game over four years by Ezemvelo KZN wildlife, and the promise to donate 1 500 animals by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency in support of transformation and mobilisation of rural previously disadvantaged communities over five years.

Other community developments include:

• The identification of 11 community rhino hotspots, and the monitoring of and direct deployment of programmes there.
• Conducting skills audits to assess literacy levels, which will assist the Department with the design of relevant educational interventions in affected communities.
• The deployment of around 1,500 Environmental Monitors.
• Undertaking youth education and awareness programmes in partnership with local businesses
• Identifying offices in four provinces to support the creation of a communication and facilitation mechanism for liaison between the Department and rhino protection structures in the communities
• Partnering with the EWT to develop and drive a restorative justice programme guideline that will assist in creating alternatives to imprisonment, and provide offenders with an opportunity to share their experiences with communities

International and regional cooperation

International cooperation is a critical component of our overall response strategy to the scourge of wildlife crime. In this regard, we have continued to cooperate with a number of strategic partners across the world and activities are being implemented in terms of our existing MoU’s.

Mozambique

Significant progress has been made with the implementation of the MOU between South Africa and Mozambique.

Within the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTFP) the Mozambican government is in the process of moving 225 families from Bingo to Chitare. The relocation will take place in 2019 as the houses are currently being constructed for the relocated families.

Construction of 720 new houses for Mavodze village is also currently underway, and a tender process is also underway for the construction of 130 new houses in Salane.

In August 2018 a group of 70 Mozambican youth from the resettled communities visited the Kruger National Park where they interacted with South African youth from the villages surrounding the Park. The aim was to gain a further understanding of the issues around rhino poaching. They also took part in a soccer tournament.

With regard to enforcement, law enforcement officials from both countries continue to share information in an effort to curb wildlife crimes, particularly rhino poaching.

China

South Africa and China are this year celebrating 20 years of formal diplomatic relations. Over the past 20 years, the two countries achieved a significant number of bilateral cooperation agreements in areas including trade, investment, economic and people-to-people relations.

On the 6 February, SANParks received a donation of R200,000 for the fight against wildlife crime from the Chinese Embassy and the Chinese Community in South Africa. The Chinese government’s comprehensive efforts on wildlife are to be commended.

The Chinese Embassy has also been instrumental in assisting the Alibaba Foundation and Paradise International Foundation set up the first African Ranger Awards that were held earlier this year, and during which two SANParks rangers were acknowledged.

Conclusion

Rhino poaching is a national priority crime, and as such, all the relevant government departments will continue their close collaboration to ensure that this iconic species is conserved for generations to come. A recent example of this integrated effort, although it does not fall within the reporting period covered in this statement, is the arrest this week of at least six key syndicate members in Mpumalanga which is a significant breakthrough in the fight against rhino poaching and rhino horn trafficking.

The Department of Environmental Affairs calls on members of the public to report any suspicious activities around wildlife to its environmental crime hotline which is 0800 205 005 or the SAPS number 10111.

Tracking with the Ju/’Hoansi Master Trackers in Kruger

The four trackers at Lanner Gorge in the Kruger National Park © Simon Sephton

There is a great deal of mystique surrounding the Bushman/San and their tracking prowess. Fuelled by storytellers from Laurens van der Post to latter-day mythologists, the legends live on, rendered now deeply poignant by the plight of the remaining ancients. People on the brink.

The Ju/’hoansi of Nyae Nyae

The Ju/’hoansi of Nyae Nyae in Namibia are the last standard-bearers of southern Africa’s hunter-gathers. For, uniquely and tragically, only they have the full suite, however precarious: their signal click language, access to wild land, the legal right to hunt by traditional means, and a slender, unbroken knowledge bridge to millennia upon millennia of savanna-attuned living. They hold the flinted keys to surviving and thriving in a pre-agricultural, pre-industrial world.

I went to the remote //xa/oba settlement in north-eastern Namibia because there, as Louis Liebenberg told me, I would find three old-way geniuses: /ui-Kxunta, /ui-G/aqo and ≠oma Daqm. Indigenous Master Trackers. The only three formally recognised as such in Namibia, although there are others out there, scarcely known, talents unseen.

Two Master Trackers in Nyae Nyae Pan in Namibia — /ui-G/aqo and /ui-Kxunta in Nyae Nyae Pan in Namibia © Simon Sephton

In the scrubby grasslands of Bushmanland they showed me how they could stay on the tracks of gemsbok (oryx) for as long as my water bottle lasted in the scorching heat (a couple of hours). They pointed out in the soft sand two sets of blurred parallel tracks of some four-legged creatures – a bat-eared fox and black-backed jackal, they said.

Now anyone who has walked through mopane thickets in Kruger knows how maze-like they can be. One tousled bush looks very much like every other. A good place to get lost. The same can be said of the terminalia scrub of Nyae Nyae. We set off following roan tracks and came across a mamba, the continent’s deadliest snake, disappearing into the bush. Some hours later, as the trackers threaded their way unerringly back through the uniform bushveld to wherever we had left the vehicle, we passed yet another indistinguishable bush. “That’s the mamba bush”, they said. Okay. No questions.

Two trackers birding in the fever tree forest in the Makuleke Concession — Ui-G and Ui-K birding in the fever tree forest in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

A rare skill, this tracking art. There are probably only a dozen masters of the intact African lineage left alive. And yet the bearers of this long and riveting history, the //xa/oba community, face constant food insecurity and are burdened by wholly treatable diseases, TB foremost. Little by way of employment. Hunting and gathering has its limits in depleted Nyae Nyae. Poverty is their crushing condition.

Across the Kalahari Basin, this is the 21st century signature of being San.

Trackers and guide on a snake spoor in Makuleke Concession — Guide Kewan Bagley, Dam Debe and ≠oma Daqm on a snake spoor in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

Displaying extraordinary tracking prowess in the Kruger

About a million and a half tourists visit the Kruger National Park each year. About ten thousand of the more serious devotees go on wilderness walks. Walking through the bush brings all the senses into play, the full symphony, along with a sense of trepidation – you are back where it all began, on the African savanna. Predators, prey, and dust.

And so, on 28 June 2018, the three Namibian masters plus another tracker, Dam Debe (last seen in the movie, The Gods must be Crazy, as a child) arrived at Kruger’s northern Pafuri Gate. The first day in the Makuleke Concession was for orientation, and sightings of civets, white-tailed mongoose, bushbuck, and nyala were all unknown animals to them, though not for long – once seen they became firmly imprinted in their minds.

The four trackers and Clive Thompson at the Pafuri Gate, Kruger National Park — The four trackers and Clive Thompson at the Pafuri Gate © Simon Sephton

They tracked an eland – totem of many a Bushmen clan. They narrated its movements for us: “Here the bull stopped, half-turned and looked back at us. Then it went on. Here it nibbled at the end bits of the mopane. See the moist twigs. See the crumbs on the ground. Now it has trotted off at speed. We won’t be seeing it again.”

Guide and four trackers searching for tracks in the Makuleke Concession — Searching for tracks in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

The next day we went far off the beaten track to Makuleke’s bushman painting site. The last San walked this precipitous sandstone terrain perhaps three hundred years ago. Our local lead guide went a little astray, as she wound her way over-circuitously through heavily vegetated gullies and ridges to the gallery.

The trackers, even though they were walking behind us, cautioned us of the buffalo in the thicket ahead before we even heard or saw them. No oxpeckers around to give us their rasping warning chirrups.

Trackers in the Makuleke Concession in Kruger National Park — Trackers scrum in the Makuleke Concession © Simon Sephton

That figurine on the cave wall which everyone had seen as an eagle was in fact a person wearing a kaross, they told us. That which we thought was a human was an animal, but the forelegs had been washed away by centuries of seepage.

In jest, I asked one of the trackers to take us back to the vehicle – hills and dales away. Nyae Nyae is boundlessly horizontal – plains and pan country, without rocky outcrops. The occasional baobab spears the distant perimeter. Makuleke’s bushman paintings are tucked away in the hills, just before the land plunges down to the Luvuvhu River. Clarens sandstones, basalt ridges, thick vegetation, mosaic topography – an utterly alien 3D world for a 2D Kalaharian.

“Sure”, he said. It had taken us forty-five minutes to labour away through the crumpled landscape to the paintings. It took our tracker twenty minutes to cut his way directly back to the road, just short of the vehicle.

“Could have come out at the vehicle,” he said. “But quicker to hit the road first.”

Four Master Trackers in Makuleke Concession in Kruger National Park — /ui-Kxunta, Dam Debe, ≠om Daqm and /ui-G/aqo in the Makuleke Concession in Kruger © Simon Sephton

The Bushmen of old had a pact with lions: We don’t hunt them, they don’t hunt us. It had worked for /ui-G/aqo years ago in Nyae Nyae when, alone on a hunting trip and sleeping up in an acacia thicket, he was surrounded in the middle of the night by a pride. He told us that the lions of the human spirit told the others to leave him alone, and they did.

I was wondering about the currency of that pact as we tracked lions in Kruger’s Nyalaland wilderness.

The trackers then pick up the tracks of a paired lion and lioness.

“They have switched from ambling to hunting,” they say.

“How so?” I ask.

“Because now they are walking apart and see, their paw prints have become slightly smaller. Their muscles are tensing.”

Then the trackers stopped where the lions had frozen a little earlier, and looked ahead to the right. They walked twenty-five paces in that direction.

“Come here,” they beckon us over. “This is where a buffalo bull meandering along suddenly smelt the lions, stopped and stared at them. Then he bolted away – look at the dig mark in those tracks. The lions bounded after him, but not far. They gave up.”

Master Tracker showing the sign for a lion in Kruger National Park — /ui-Kxunta, for good reason, gives the sign for a lion: clenched hand, thumb and pinkie as cat’s ears © Clive Thompson

Over six walking trails, four in Makuleke and two in Nyalaland, and the masters never did lose any of the tracks we chose to follow, even when the quarry turned out to be beyond our endurance to find. This was no problem to us at all, as the fascination was in the twisting journey, not an embodied destination.

We had some knowledgeable people on the trail, including accomplished Kruger guides – and their faces said it all. Each tracking episode ended with guest and guide shaking their head in stunned appreciation, then handshakes all round. It was better than an opera and in the best of opera houses.

Zebras in the fever tree forest in Makuleke Concession — Zebras in the fever tree forest © Roy Terlien

Exploring Africa’s Oceans

Home to some of the most spectacular and treasured life, the oceans and seas surrounding Africa contain a multitude of creatures that thrive in the warm and cold currents that run along our continent. Various bodies of water surround Africa – the Mediterranean Sea to the north, the Suez Canal and the Red Sea along the Sinai Peninsula to the northeast, the Indian Ocean to the east and southeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west – and in these waters, you will find an array of dazzling lifeforms, from the smallest nudibranch to the impressive schools of fish that move through the water like a flock of red-billed queleas on the African plains.
Join us as we take a glimpse into the underwater world of our African oceans and seas through the eyes of photographers who submitted their photos into our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions.

? A healthy reef with an abundance of life in Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“The life-sustaining benefits of rainforest to our planet is more commonly known than those provided by a healthy ocean, but in fact, the ocean contributes even more – and I wanted to capture a photo conveying this message. The school of fish represents the ozone, and the reef below is Earth. Sadly, when it comes to the ocean, the ‘out of sight out of mind’ way of thinking often applies. This has led to major pollution and overfishing. Should we carry along the same path, it’s estimated that there will be no fish left in the ocean by 2050. However, all is not lost as marine reserves around the globe have proven what a remarkable recovery the marine ecosystem can make if given full protection. Sodwana Bay is the oldest marine reserve in South Africa and its healthy reefs and rich; diverse marine life is a prime example of this.” ~ Geo Cloete

? The rare and protected tiger rockcod at Rocktail Bay, iSimangaliso Marine Park, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“The tiger rock cod is a rare saltwater fish species. Not a lot is known about the species, but they occur in deep water reefs and is vulnerable to overfishing. They are solitary and derive their name from the beautiful colour and spots.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

? A green turtle swims in the blue waters at Marsa Abu Dabbab in the Red Sea, Egypt © Cristian Umili (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

? “Compass in the dark” at Atlantis Reef dive site, Simon’s Town, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“I went diving at the newly discovered Atlantis reef. The visibility was less than five metres, and it was a disappointing dive. I saw this compass jellyfish at the safety stop at five metres after completion of the dive. I was swimming slowly after it, blacking out the background to highlight its vivid colours.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

? A humpback whale breaches in the waters by Nosy Boraha Island (Île Sainte-Marie), Madagascar © Gudkov Andrey (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

? A blue shark just below the surface about 40km off Cape Point, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“Sail southwest from Cape Point and eventually you will be surrounded by the blue horizon in all directions. It’s here, in the deep, pelagic waters, where blue sharks (Prionace glauca) call it home. It’s a beautiful part of the world – this blue ‘desert’ with its hidden abundance of life. Inshore, people often mistake the pectoral fin of a sunfish floating on the surface to be that of a shark’s dorsal fin. Out here in the deep blue waters, the fin indeed belongs to a blue shark, swimming just below the surface. Blue sharks have the largest distribution range around the globe, and are unfortunately the shark species targeted the most by fishermen for their fins.” ~ Geo Cloete

? A dense concentration of box jellyfish in the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town, South Africa © Geo Cloete (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“In 2016, I published a photo of an unusual and yet to be described behaviour displayed by box jellyfish. The scene was of a huge congregation which consisted of a densely stacked (but spread out) base. From the base, several ‘columns’ stretched up high into the water column. Due to the sheer size of the smack of jellyfish, it was impossible to capture the complete scene in a single frame, even though I was using a fisheye lens. This photo depicts a portion of the base of the smack, illustrating the dense concentration of jellyfish.” ~ Geo Cloete

? A gasflame nudibranch in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2018 Entrant)

? A blacktip shark cruises the lagoon as a storm approaches in Aldabra atoll, Seychelles © Adam Mitchell (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“The Aldabra atoll has one of the highest shark densities of anywhere in the western Indian Ocean. This particular shark was cruising with the outgoing current towards the lagoon entrance as a storm front darkened the sky on the horizon. Within minutes, the blindingly bright white flats had been obscured by the downpour, and I lost the shark in the rain. Fast as they are, I doubt this shark was quick enough to outrun the storm.” ~ Adam Mitchell

? A close up of a giant sea clam in Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“Giant sea clams typically occur on the east coast of Africa in clear water of less than 10 metres. They are filter feeders by their specialised gills. The visible mantle tissue is responsible for its colourful appearance, and it harbours large populations of single-celled photosynthetic algae or zooxanthellae.” ~ Peet J. van Eeden

Great Lakes: A Solo, Man-powered Expedition

In early 2018, I set out to journey across the three largest of the African Great Lakes: Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika, and Lake Victoria. My objective was to traverse the region by “fair means”: solo, self-sufficient, and entirely human-powered. I would start in the south, and make my away across the lakes via kayak, paddling each day and coming to shore each night to sleep, while between lakes I would travel by bicycle. Without engines and guides, I would have no choice but to embrace the landscape and its people without any degree of separation. And, if I succeeded, it would be in a style that I could be proud of.

Lake Victoria viewed from a kayak — Lake Victoria is a relatively shallow and extremely wide lake, quite unlike Tanganyika and Malawi, which are narrow and deep rift valley lakes. What it does share with the other lakes are a high number of endemic species and a population that’s largely dependent on the lake for their way of life © Ross Exler

My journey through the Great Lakes of Africa began as a student in the research lab of the University of Colorado, as we explored inhabitants of Lake Tanganyika. I quickly discovered that the Great Lakes has a massive impact on global biodiversity, as well as the lives of millions of people who call the region home. This formed a seed of inspiration for me to gain a more ‘hands-on’ research experience alongside local nature conservancy the Tuungane Project.

I designed this expedition to be the purest and most challenging form of expedition travel. I planned to enchain the African Great Lakes by human power – kayaking each lake and bicycling in between – without a support team, solo, and carrying all of my equipment along with me. In that way, by exposing myself to the insecurities of being alone and the rigours of human-powered travel, I would strip down the expedition to its purest elements.

**Clockwise from left:** 1) *Lake Tanganyika is like the big brother of Lake Malawi. It’s also a Rift Valley lake, so it is long, narrow, very deep, and contains an incredible diversity of mostly endemic fish species*; 2) *On this expedition, I used a tandem, folding kayak, which could be packed up in bags for transport between lakes*; 3) Lake Malawi is extremely important for the population living around it, though while there I saw ecologically destructive fishing practices. Fishing regulations supposedly exist, but I didn’t see any enforcement whatsoever. All photos © Ross Exler

I knew that a trip of this scale, with this level of commitment, is something that shouldn’t be entered into lightly. The most important thing that I needed to do to succeed on the trip and remain safe was to prepare sufficiently, but that preparation comes in myriad forms. For me, this expedition was the culmination of years of preparation: studying the region in university, sharpening my wilderness survival skills in the Amazon, educating myself on tropical diseases, spending time in Africa becoming acclimated to the culture and learning about dangerous animals and how to avoid them, mastered the use of my field equipment, and countless days spent on the water. This expedition was something that I had aspired to for a long time, but I only decided to move forward with it once I thought that I was sufficiently prepared.

That said, I also needed to do significant research into the different areas, routes, and potential problems that could present themselves along the way. Even things as banal as border crossing procedures aren’t necessarily so straightforward when you intend to cross the border on water. I spent months online researching topics from crocodile attacks to weather patterns. Where possible, I also reached out to people who could provide information, such as lodge owners and NGO workers, and they were very generous with their time.

Aerial view of bike on dirt road in Africa — For getting between the Great Lakes I assembled my folding bicycle and trailer, loaded them with my equipment, and cycled to the next lake © Ross Exler

My Journey

A trip like this isn’t for the faint of heart. Risk comes with the territory, but if I was going to succeed in this endeavour, I needed to be an expert in my craft, trust my instincts, and remain hyper-aware throughout the trip. All of these things are significantly magnified by being alone. At a baseline, I was certainly more at risk when alone and had fewer options for recourse if things do go wrong, but perhaps more challenging is the psychological aspect of spending months making decisions that have significant consequences, and then dealing with the endless internal monologue that is second-guessing each decision. There’s no comforting consensus when you are alone, and it takes a certain amount of resolve to be able to, or willing to, push through the excruciating loneliness and isolation.

When I would arrive in a village, I would immediately be greeted by a crowd of curious onlookers. The thing is that wherever you go in the world, people are people. Connecting on a human level, even when there was a language barrier, was relatively effortless.

Every community extended to me great warmth and welcoming, despite virtually all of the communities experiencing the daily struggle to a certain extent. Poverty is a great challenge through the entire region, and yet it didn’t impede the kindness that I experienced in every village.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *I only ‘bush’ camped when there was no one around, and no one knew of my presence – in general, I didn’t like to camp near people without speaking to them*; 2) *On one of my first nights on the lake, I was greeted by dozens of smiling kids who helped me drag my boat onto the beach*; 3) *The people of Lake Tanganyika, living in this remote corner of Tanzania were surviving off the land – a timeless, subsistence way of life*; 4) *On the road, unlike on the lake, I was always around people. Some would jog along with me or wave and smile.* All photos © Ross Exler

Camping alone, however, was slightly concerning, and in general, I didn’t like to camp near people without speaking to them. That is to say, I only ‘bush’ camped when there was no one around, and no one knew of my presence. If that opportunity didn’t present itself, then I would go into a community and introduce myself and ask if it was alright for me to spend the night there.

By declaring my presence and asking for permission, I felt as though I belonged, even if only for the one night.

That said, no expedition like this is without significant danger. On the third day, while paddling north along the shoreline of Lake Malawi, I heard a splashing sound from the water. When I turned to look, I saw that a four or 5-metre crocodile had surfaced and was staring at me icily before it disappeared back under the surface. After that, I took even greater precautions to avoid crocodiles – paddling several kilometres offshore, avoiding river mouths and wetlands, and staying away from the water at night, and I was mostly able to neutralise that threat.

Still, I looked over my shoulder every few minutes for the remaining months of the trip, hoping that I wouldn’t find a large predatory reptile behind me.

**Left:** *Early one morning, an enormous Nile crocodile surfaced about five metres from my boat, looked at me coldly, and then vanished below the water*; **Right:** *The route would require approximately 1,500 miles of paddling and peddling, through Malawi, Tanzania, and Uganda.* Both photos © Ross Exler

Conservation and Sustainability

During my trip, I realised that the main issues are overfishing, unsustainable fishing practices, unsustainable agricultural practices such as bush charcoal production and steep hillside agriculture which lead to significant sediment inputs into the lake, climate change, and introduction of invasive species. The local human impacts, such as fishing pressures and agriculture, are particularly compounded by rapid population growth in the region.

Boats along the shore of Lake Malawi — Lake Malawi’s shortline was lined with small fishing villages built out of locally available materials © Ross Exler

Despite this, communities are very receptive to learning about sustainability. The local people understand that fish populations are decreasing over time, and they are hungry for education that can empower them to protect their resources.

I spoke with many fishermen and farmers who stated exactly this and voiced their understanding that these resources need to be protected so that they will continue to provide for local people well into the future.

Fishing nets on the shore of Lake Malawi — The population of Malawi has grown from approximately 3.5 million people in 1960 to over 18-million today, and many of those people live along the lake, where they can make a living by fishing. The impacts of this population growth on the environment were obvious as my trip progressed © Ross Exler

At the same time, some of these people are barely getting by, so alternative means of producing income is essential. When people are desperate, they are going to do whatever they have to do to survive, even if it’s a short-term gain that has significant long-term consequences. There also needs to be enforcement of fishing regulations, whether it’s conducted by the government or by a local community group such as the Beach Management Units, so that a few bad actors don’t damage the shared resource.

What the Tuungane Project is trying to do is to educate and foster growth in sustainable means of agricultural production and fish yields, alternative income, and grassroots enforcement of fishing regulations. They’re also working with Pathfinder International, another NGO, to improve family planning education and access to birth control, which will allow women to decide how many children they want to have and may reduce population growth. All of these working in conjunction is the only way forward.

Agriculture conservation seminar in Mahale — I stopped in a town north of Mahale to visit an international NGO, The Nature Conservancy (TNC), working in the area. They aim to empower local people through education and training, organisation, and by providing access to critical resources. While I was there a seminar on climate-smart agriculture was taking place © Ross Exler

Looking to the Future

I want to continue to be an ambassador for The Great Lakes region and continue to promote conservation initiatives. I think that the most pressing issue we need to consider is population growth, which leads to an increase in consumption and a correspondingly bigger footprint. More people will need more fish, which produce more plastic and turn more forests into agricultural lands, and so on.

But population growth is only experienced for a while; then it tends to level off, especially when people are empowered with knowledge of family planning and have access to birth control. So, I think that it’s essential that people get out there and help to educate others on sustainable behaviours so that the environment can be preserved.

Kayak off Lake Malawi's shore — Each morning, I’d paddle out a kilometre or two, and then turn and paddle up the shoreline. Most of the time, I would be close enough to shore to see villages and fishing boats, though occasionally I would cross bays large enough for me to find myself seven or eight kilometres offshore © Ross Exler

About the African Great Lakes

The African Great Lakes are a series of lakes that make up part of the Great Rift Valley lakes in East Africa. The lakes hold approximately 27% of the world’s fresh water and 10% of the world’s fish species.

The major African Great Lakes include Lake Victoria (26,563 sq mi), Lake Tanganyika (12,355 sq mi), Lake Malawi (11,428 sq mi), Lake Turkana (2,472 sq mi) and Lake Albert (2,046 sq mi). There are other smaller lakes in the region which include Lake Edward (977 sq mi), Lake Kivu (857 sq mi), Lake Mweru (1977 sq mi), and Lake Rukwa (759 sq mi). They are classified based on river basins, the presence of a draining river or its absence, and the size of the lake.

The exact number of lakes considered part of the African Great Lakes varies by list, and may include smaller lakes in the rift valleys, especially if they are part of the same drainage basin as the larger lakes, such as Lake Kyoga that is part of the Great Lakes system but is not itself considered a Great Lake, based on its size of 660 sq mi.

The three Great Lakes that Ross Exler traversed were Lake Tanganyika, the second largest lake in the world by volume, the second deepest lake, and the longest lake in the world; Lake Victoria, the second largest lake in the world by surface area; and Lake Malawi, thought to have the most species of fish of any lake in the world and is the fourth-largest by volume.

The Great Lakes region comprises of Burundi, Rwanda, northeastern Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, and northwestern Kenya and Tanzania – the areas lying between northern Lake Tanganyika, western Lake Victoria, and lakes Kivu, Edward and Albert. The term ‘ Great Lakes region’ is used in a broader sense to extend to all of Kenya and Tanzania, but not usually as far south as Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique nor as far north as Ethiopia, though these four countries border one of the Great Lakes.

An estimated 107 million people live in the Great Lakes region and depend almost exclusively on natural resources for their livelihoods – the lakes being a significant source of food, water and income. Overpopulation is now competing for the habitat used by many endangered species, including the mountain gorilla and the forest elephant. Resources have already deteriorated due to unchecked or unregulated exploitation, invasive species, habitat degradation, pollution, and eutrophication, though governments in the region are attempting to lessen the impact through integrated conservation and development projects

Mountain gorillas in Mahale Mountain National Park — In Mahale Mountain National Park, I had the good fortune of observing chimpanzees and avoiding crocodiles and hippos. Chimpanzees, our charismatic cousins, win the popularity contest when it comes to conservation in this region, and it’s easy to see why people love these stunning animals © Ross Exler

Development and conservation of the lakes and their basins are complicated by the fact that they are shared by more than one country, with actions often being implemented at national levels in the absence of regional institutions to coordinate and harmonise efforts among countries.

Even those lakes with regional authorities, such as Lake Tanganyika Authority or Lake Victoria Basin Commission, struggle to implement lake management programs due to limited access to funding mechanisms and limited to no enforcement powers.

**Left:** *Storms were a challenge, as powerful squalls came through erratically and forced me to decide between paddling through dangerous weather or fleeing to land*; **Right:** Lake Tanganyika was much more sparsely populated, with long sections of wild coastline seemingly untouched by people. On some of these remote sections, I could find wilderness beaches to spend the night. Both photos © Ross Exler

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Ross Exler

Ross Exler is an ambitious world adventurer, passionate about biodiversity and the sustainability of ecosystems in Africa. So much so, he decided to embark on a journey to become the first person to complete a solo, man-powered crossing of the African Great Lakes. His aim? To understand more about sustainability, conservation and the balance between humans and the environment.
Ross’s choice of man-powered transportation when crossing these natural wonders reflects the necessity for humans to power real environmental change in and around Lake Malawi, Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika. To read more about his journey through the Great Lakes of Africa, click here.

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Maasai Mara Specialist Photographic Safari
This is possibly the most exciting photographic safari to Kenya’s Maasai Mara that we have seen in a while. Award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen will host four lucky Africa Geographic guests for nine days / eight nights, making use of a specially-adapted vehicle and an off-road driving permit to secure epic wildlife images.

Elephant hunting: Botswana initiates month-long consultation process

Sourced from third-party site: AFP

Botswana initiated on Wednesday a month of public hearings to decide whether to lift the 2014 hunting ban, including elephant hunting. The review comes just days after the advocacy group, Elephants Without Borders, said that about 90 elephants were slaughtered in recent months for their tusks in Botswana. The government disputes the group’s claims, saying the report was exaggerated to thwart the review of the hunting ban.

The prohibition on big game sports hunting was the work of ex-president Ian Khama, a keen conservationist, to shield species decimated by hunting and habitat loss.

But lawmakers from the ruling Botswana Democratic party have been lobbying to overturn the ban, especially on elephant hunting. According to them, elephant populations have grown rapidly, with other elephants coming from neighbouring countries to seek refuge from poachers, prompting an increase in human deaths and declining incomes in farming communities.

Khama’s successor, President Mokgweetsi Masisi will meet with researchers and will then address a kgotla (traditional gathering) on the issue. The report from the hearings will be submitted to cabinet next month.

With its unfenced parks and wide-open spaces, landlocked Botswana has the largest elephant population in Africa, at over 135,000. The number of elephants on the continent has fallen by around 111,000 to 415,000 in the past decade, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Skye the lion hunting furore: Parliament wants Kruger NP agreement with private reserves revised

Parliament is concerned with issues related to the trophy hunting of Kruger National Park animals and specifically with the contractual relationship between the Kruger and neighbouring private reserves whereby Kruger animals are hunted in the Greater Kruger area, outside of the Park. The Greater Kruger area is an open system permitting Kruger animals to roam across private reserves. Some of the private reserves utilise trophy hunting to generate revenue that is ploughed into reserve running costs, which are now higher than ever due to increasing anti-poaching efforts. Parliament’s concern also includes the alleged lack of inclusion of benefits for broader society stemming from this contractual relationship between Kruger and the private reserves.

Media release by South African Parliament:

The Portfolio Committee on Environmental Affairs today (September 12) had an engagement with the Department of Environmental Affairs, South African National Parks (SANParks) and Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency Board on issues arising from our recently held Colloquium on Captive Lion Breeding, particularly hunting in the Greater Kruger National Park and the implementation of TOPS (Threatened or Protected Species) regulations.

The recent hunting of a male lion which took place in Umbabat Private Nature Reserve in Mpumalanga on the 7th of June 2018, highlighted wider issues of concern, both in terms of law governing hunting in the Kruger National Park and the contractual arrangements between the Kruger National Park and the Association of Private Nature Reserves (APNR).

The committee is extremely concerned that 10 years after the promulgation of the amended TOPS regulations in 2008, Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency is not complying with the regulations, especially those relating to the hunting of listed species in the regulations like lions, based on a flawed technical argument that the regulations are in conflict with the Provincial Act as they have not been taken through the NCOP. The committee has thus directed that the department should ensure that these regulations are processed through the NCOP before the end of the year and that the Mpumalanga Tourism & Parks Agency should ensure compliance with these regulations by January 2019. Baiting as a form of hunting of TOPS-listed species should cease immediately.

The committee would further like to urge the Minister of Environmental Affairs to expedite the process of realising full compliance with these regulations, through the MINMEC process in order to have a uniform standard for the whole country.

The other matter which concerns the committee is the agreement between the Kruger National Park and Association of Private Nature Reserves (APNR) concluded in 1996. We believe that this agreement needs to be revised to ensure that there is sharing of benefits arising from the collapse of the fences in the western boundary of the Kruger National Park in the interest of the broader society. The committee believes that issues of transformation and beneficiation should be taken into account in this agreement. In this regard, the committee has directed SANParks to develop a concept paper on this matter for discussion with the committee in October/November 2018. The committee will hold public hearings to determine the best way forward after its engagement with SANParks.

The committee also wants discussions to take place around the current hunting protocol that allows hunting of animals in the Greater Kruger National Park as a result of an open system arising from the taking down of the fences between the Kruger National Park and Association of Private Nature Reserves. The committee wants this protocol to be interrogated to properly account for this system, for which the Kruger National Park prohibits hunting inside the park, but nonetheless, animals are hunted when they roam over to private nature reserves.

Scientists question BBC reporting over elephant poaching crisis in Botswana

Elephant carcass in Botswana — An elephant carcass found during the investigation exercise © Botswana Government (Facebook)

A group of prominent scientists have questioned the reporting by the BBC of the elephant poaching crisis in Botswana. Their conclusions, which differ significantly from those of the BBC, were derived from the same information provided by Dr Mike Chase of Elephants Without Borders.

In addition to the analytical response below, the scientists also emphasized the following two very important matters, which have been falsely reported:

1. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks is still armed with high-caliber weapons, but no longer carry automatic assault rifles;

2. The Botswana military, which is also dedicated to anti-poaching and patrols throughout the country, removes tusks from all elephant carcasses. The process to remove the ivory is the same as that used by poachers. It is thus not possible to distinguish between elephants that died from natural causes and those that were poached. To determine if an elephant has been poached, one would need to consult with the Botswana Defence Force.

The response by the scientists, as sent by them to BBC:

Response to recent BBC Report of Elephant Poaching Crisis in Botswana

In a recent BBC report, Mike Chase of Elephants without Borders reports what has been interpreted as massive poaching of elephants in Botswana, findings which arise from some preliminary aerial survey results. This “discovery” has gone viral on social media, creating digital hysteria and global concern and even some condemnation of the Government of Botswana.

In the BBC report, Chase is quoted saying, “When I compare this to figures and data from the Great Elephant Census, which I conducted in 2015, we are recording double the number of fresh poached elephants than anywhere else in Africa.” Such assertions are important in terms of elephant conservation but they also have important consequences that impact international perceptions of Botswana and its citizens. As scientists working in conservation in Botswana, we have received numerous requests for comment on the BBC report.

In order to do so, we rely on the numbers recently reported and Chase’s published paper of the 2015 surveys (Chase et al, 2016, https://peerj.com/articles/2354/ ) for comparison – comparative data referred to by Chase himself. We find it difficult to reconcile the information provided in the published paper with Chase’s recent numbers and assertions that unprecedented poaching is now occurring in Botswana.

Says Chase: “The scale of elephant poaching is by far the largest I’ve seen or read about anywhere in Africa to date.” (BBC News/world-Africa). The following is a quote directly from the publication of the 2015 Great Elephant Census (Chase et al, DOI: 10.7717/peerj.2354), “The highest fresh carcass ratios were found in Angola (10%), Cameroon (10%), the W-Arly-Pendjari (WAP) Ecosystem (3%), and Mozambique (3%), suggesting high levels of recent elephant mortality in these countries.”

By comparison, in the same table, Botswana is reported to have a fresh carcass ratio of 0.1%, equalling 130 fresh elephant carcasses identified during the 2015 survey in a population estimated to be at 130,451 at their last count. This can be compared with 340 and 288 fresh elephant carcasses reported for Angola (total pop est. 3395) and Mozambique (total pop est. 9605), respectively, during the same time period (DOI: 10.7717/peerj.2354/table-2).

The current EWB report of 87 fresh carcasses in Botswana in the 2018 survey (to date) cannot be characterised as an extreme loss of elephants compared to other range countries nor to numbers reported for Botswana in past surveys unless, for some reason, the current Survey Intensity is not comparable to previous surveys.

We appreciate the importance of survey work and population monitoring and share the concerns that elephant poaching remains a threat throughout the elephant range, including in Botswana. In conclusion, using Chase’s numbers directly, we find no scientific basis for the dramatic assertions made in the recent BBC report and question why such a report was disseminated to the media prior to completion of the current survey and data analysis.

Opinion post written by:

Kathleen Alexander, DVM PhD, Board President CARACAL, Botswana; Professor, Virginia Tech, USA

J.W. McNutt, PhD, Director, Botswana Predator Conservation Trust

Mark Vandewalle, PhD, CEO CARACAL, Botswana

Video: 500 animals journey from Kruger to Zinave

Running with wildlife is par for the course when you're part of a game capture team — Running with wildlife is par for the course when you’re part of a game capture team © Peace Parks Foundation

The past two months saw the translocation of zebra, blue wildebeest and impala from Kruger National Park in South Africa to Zinave National Park in Mozambique. The animals were donated by South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA) to Mozambique’s Ministry of Land, Environment and Rural Development (MITADER) in a collaborative effort between the governments to further develop key wildlife areas as part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, spanning Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe.

“In protecting key natural resources one can no longer have a fortress conservation mentality, and the Great Limpopo Transfrontier treaty is leading the way towards the formulation of a new conservation management plan for Kruger National Park that looks beyond our borders. If we can share our surplus wildlife with our neighbours, and in so doing eventually share our 1.9 million annual visitors into Mozambique, it will not only benefit the people of Mozambique, but contribute to a balanced and sustainable ecotourism system for the whole region”, stated Glenn Philips, Managing Executive, Kruger National Park.

Currently, the animal populations in the Kruger National Park are doing extremely well and the animal numbers of certain species are in sufficient enough numbers that it can be removed from the park without causing any adverse ecological impacts – a testimony to the successful conservation management strategies of South African National Parks (SANParks).

Blue wildebeest take their first steps into their new home, Zinave National Park © Peace Parks Foundation

On the other side of the border, the 408,000 ha Zinave National Park is still recovering from a civil war that left it almost devoid of wildlife. In 2016, Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks Foundation signed a co-management agreement with the objective to restore the park to its former glory. The agreement sets out a framework whereby the partner organisations agreed on a strategy to rehabilitate and rewild Zinave by investing in anti-poaching, infrastructure development, tourism development and community development interventions.

The end goal will be to attract tourism back to the park that will generate sufficient revenues to sustain the operations of park management – thereby conserving nature for the benefit of people and animals alike.

The crew gets going early to so that the animals can be captured before the heat of the day steps in © Peace Parks Foundation

Through the support received from DEA and SANParks, a total of 291 impala, 153 wildebeest and 85 zebra were moved from Kruger National Park into Zinave this year, with Peace Parks Foundation funding the translocation costs. The overall goal is to reintroduce 7,500 game animals in Zinave over the next five years and to date over 1,300 animals have been rewilded to the Park.

Director General for ANAC, Mr Mateus Mutemba, shared: “Mozambique would like to extend its gratitude to South Africa for its continued support in rewilding Zinave. Gorongosa National Park, in central Mozambique, is a living testimony of how nature is resilient and animal populations can thrive after being nearly depleted. In Gorongosa we saw a ten-fold increase in animal numbers within ten years, and the park is now sharing animals with other protected areas. In the same way, we strongly believe that a decade from now, Zinave will play an important role in the biodiversity economy of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier area, being a source of employment, a source of living, for the children of Zinave, and they will take pride in conserving the region’s nature. Well-protected and existing in harmony with man, wildlife populations will thrive, and soon Zinave will be able to also supply wildlife to other areas in the country. Nature has been taking care of human beings since the dawn of time. As long as we continue protecting it and integrate our people in biodiversity economy-related programs alongside conservation education we can succeed.”

The expansive capture chute, aerial view — The expansive capture chute. Translocating animals is an enormous operation that requires expert planning and execution © Peace Parks Foundation

The animals are first released into a 18,600 ha fenced sanctuary where they can acclimatise to their new environment. Each animal plays a critical role in keeping the biodiversity of a conservation area healthy and balanced. Through various translocations over the past couple of years, numerous animal herds can now be seen in the area and are doing very well.

Zebra in Zinave National Park — Zinave offers ideal grazing habitat and translocated wildlife are settling in well © Peace Parks Foundation

“Collaboration such as this is what developing peace parks is all about. It promotes cross-country collaboration, through which nations have the opportunity to work together on projects that directly impact and promote the well-being of their citizens. The rewilding of Zinave National Park is a vital next step in reconnecting traditional wildlife dispersal areas within the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, and eventually reconnecting the Zinave, Banhine and Limpopo National Parks in Mozambique with Kruger National Park in South Africa and Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe -a vast landscape spanning almost 100,000 square kilometres. Wildlife corridors are essential to enable animals to move naturally along ancient migratory routes, strengthening the significance of maintaining healthy ecosystems which is a cornerstone of transboundary conservation efforts,” says Peace Parks Foundation Chief Executive Officer, Werner Myburgh.

Watch Rewilding Africa from Peace Parks Foundation below

Our secret season safari in East Africa

As our plane touched down on a small, remote dirt strip in Selous, Tanzania, a game drive vehicle appeared as if out of nowhere – and Imani, our guide, and Mgoma, the driver, waved and beamed their broad, friendly smiles at us. Welcome to Africa! This fantastic safari for David and I, arranged by Africa Geographic, was during the so-called ‘secret season’ of June when game reserves were virtually empty of other holidaymakers and yet brimming with wildlife – perfect for a classic Tanzania safari experience. Just the way we like it.

safari — An epic sunset with hippos in Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania © Mark Paul

Stunning Selous

Soon after arrival at Lake Manze Camp, we found a pride of lions lazing about – spread out on a slab of cool concrete under a thatched roof. We parked the vehicle nearby and watched. A male got up and slowly ambled our way, but he was not interested in us. A few feet from our vehicle he stretched luxuriously up against a tree, scratching the bark with his claws, before lumbering on down the road, an open wound on his leg evidence of the harsh life of a lion in paradise.

Our tented camp overlooked Lake Manze, which only days earlier had risen and flooded the area nearby. From March through to May the rains can be heavy, and life here is not conducive to being on safari. But as the rain subsides, so do the water levels.

On our first full day on safari, we had leopards and wild dogs on our minds and shared our ambitions with Imani. He had an idea where to find wild dogs, and sure enough, after a short search, we were lucky enough to find and spend time with about 15 dogs. But no leopards. We got back to camp only to find out there had been a leopard in a tree in camp!

Late afternoon we took a peaceful boat ride on Lake Manze and enjoyed getting close to a malachite kingfisher and a pair of fish eagles. With plenty of water in the early season, wildlife is more dispersed, but hippos were everywhere. They bobbed and disappeared, then popped up again, exhaling an occasional languid yawn.

Suddenly a large hippo bull charged our boat, and it was gaining on us fast! I forgot that I had my camera and just watched in awe as this immense creature rose out of the water. I thought he would join us in the boat, but then he backed off, and we sped up – each agreeing to part ways peacefully.

My family often asks me, “Aren’t you afraid to be in Africa?” and my response is always no. But for a brief moment, that hippo had me really scared. People say that hippos are the most dangerous animal in Africa, and I now believe them!

As a photographer, you always want to be prepared for moments like this because you don’t usually get a second chance. Well, I blew it on that occasion and did not get a single picture of the hippo charging us. But a few minutes later, I got a second chance. This time I swung around, put my single focus point on the charging hippo and clicked away, capturing the entire charge. Success!

At dinner that night, our camp host Shaun explained that hippos can sink – and run fast on the bottom – because of the high bone density in their legs. Amazing.

The sun was setting, and the sky and water were turning orange. Hippos were moving towards the reflection: a perfect picture and a gorgeous end to our first day on safari in Selous.

Remote Ruaha

Our second stop was Ruaha National Park – the largest national park in Tanzania – in the remote and seldom-visited southwest of this vast country. As we flew in, the Ruaha River sparkled in the afternoon sun, and shades of green dominated the landscape.

David and I had told team Africa Geographic that we wanted to be in the thick of it. He and I had met while taking a class in Kenya five years earlier and were of the same mind – we were in Africa to see wildlife! So Mdonya Old River Camp was perfect for us, and we were up bright and early at 6 am with coffee and out on a game drive by 6:30 – giving us the best possible chance for wildlife sightings and the best photographic lighting.

In our open vehicle, the cool morning breeze brought tears to my eyes as I tried to stay warm under a blanket. I held my camera in anticipation, and the possibilities of a new day excited me.

Kahimba, our guide, had a hunch where he could find lions. Johnny, the young apprentice, spotted them first: three males and one female. Two males soon left, and we followed the remaining pair for a while. Kahimba thought she might have small cubs hiding someplace. The soft morning light was beautiful as we watched the pair disappear into the bush. A great start to the day!

Back on the road, we found a large troop of baboons, backlit and all aglow. After a few shots we drove on, taking in the sounds and smells, smiles etched on our faces, feeling like we had Ruaha all to ourselves.

Suddenly, something large jumped out in front of us! We couldn’t make it out at first with the sun shining directly into our eyes.
“Leopard,” I heard someone say.

In my excitement, I immediately tried taking photos while the vehicle was still moving, but soon gave up and put my camera down. Fortunately, the cat went up a tree, and we were able to pull over and observe.

Kahimba said he knew this cat – he was about a year and a half old and the son of Fundi. You could see that this young leopard was intent on something and ignored us completely, gazing out into the bush for a while before finally relaxing and making eye contact with us. Eventually, he hung all four legs over a large branch and settled in for a nap. We decided to leave him alone in peace.

Leopards and lions in the first hour; that is why you get up early when you’re on safari in Africa!

Eventually, we stopped for breakfast. Kahimba and Johnny laid a cloth over the hood and put out an excellent assortment of foods for us to choose from.
Later in the day, we stopped, and Kahimba began making a whistling noise. He pointed to a bush, but I could not see anything. With some guidance, I spotted a diminutive pearl-spotted owlet, wide-eyed and looking our way. Kahimba called again, and it flew towards us – in fact, it was flying directly at my head, and it felt like I would have been impaled had I not ducked!

**Left**: *Red-billed hornbill*; **Right:** *A territorial pearl-spotted owlet flew straight at us after our guide mimicked its call*. All photos © Mark Paul

Around every turn, we scared up doves, guineafowl, francolins, hornbills, and many other birds. We stopped to scan for wildlife on the ledges and outcroppings, often seeing lizards and hyrax (rock rabbits).

As the sun went down, we drove through pockets of cool air, flushing nightjars from the dirt road. A pair of black-backed jackals appeared in front of us – my grainy, low-light photo later revealed that the prize possession one of them had in its mouth was a 6-8″ length of vertebrae.

The day had been long and rewarding.

Ostriches make their way past a baobab tree in Ruaha © Mark Paul

Cheetahs

The landscape in this part of Ruaha is incredibly diverse. Significant elevational relief provides views of shrubby grasslands, open woodlands and baobab trees scattered in all directions. On day two, we were hoping to see cheetahs, but we were not optimistic. The grass was high in the early season, making it difficult to spot this cat.

Our first sighting of the day was of a black-shouldered kite mobbing a martial eagle. A little later on, we watched two large tuskers sparring in the Ruaha River.

It was during lunch when Kahimba got a call: Another vehicle had found four cheetahs. Lunch was over!

We arrived to see four cheetahs – two-year-old siblings – hunting impala. We sat quietly and watched as they surrounded their prey and set up an ambush. I could see one of the cats hidden behind a shrub. An impala moved closer. The cat waited…

A cheetah with its eyes locked on an impala © Mark Paul

With a sudden burst of breathtaking speed, the cheetah attacked. There was a brief chase; then, the cheetah abruptly pulled up. It had been too impatient, and the hunt was over. Kahimba said they showed their inexperience by not waiting for the impala to get closer.

Every day brought something new and exciting, as did every night because when you sleep in the bush, the sounds of wildlife surround your tent. Our time in Tanzania had been amazing, but David was now off to enjoy the World Cup Soccer in Russia, and I still had one more safari destination…

Magical Maasai Mara

Whereas in the rolling terrain of Ruaha you could often not see over the next hill or beyond the next bend in the road, the Maasai Mara in Kenya offered views to the horizon from almost everywhere – and at this time of year, it was cheaper than being in Tanzania’s Serengeti. That level of advice is what makes a safari with Africa Geographic so rewarding.

We were out on a game drive at 6:30 am on my first full day at Sentinel Mara Camp – just Jackson (my driver) and I. We enjoyed a fantastic sunrise, accompanied by silhouetted elephants on a dew-covered savannah, lit up in a red-orange glow. Golden hour!

Elephant at sunrise in the Maasai Mara — Elephants at sunrise in the Maasai Mara © Mark Paul

Further along, we found a male lion sitting majestically, looking out over his kingdom, with grassland as far as you could see in the background. Jackson told me that soon the wildebeest would arrive and darken the landscape – prime time for a migration season safari.

I imagine the scene to be something like the Great Plains in North America before a herd of buffalo moved through. The savannah was lush; the table was set for the zebra and wildebeest. But there was still food for predators – impala and Thompson’s gazelle were plentiful – so finding big cats was not difficult.

We headed towards a river where the vegetation favoured leopards. Just as we were approaching the area, Jackson got the call that a leopard mom with two cubs had been spotted. When we arrived, the mom was up in a tree, but soon came down, and we saw her walking with one of her young.

Jackson followed the stream, anticipating beautifully where they would come out. We watched them cross the river and disappear into a thicket. According to Jackson, the mother had brought her cub to feast on a Thompson’s gazelle she had dragged up a tree.

Leopard mother and cub by a river in the Maasai Mara — A great sighting of a leopard mom and cub crossing the river © Mark Paul

That afternoon brought a cheetah mother with a cub. From a distance, we could see the mom on her back and the cub jumping on her. They played for quite a while before disappearing under some bushes.

This is the animal I most wanted to see on my third trip to Africa, and now I had had two amazing encounters.

**Clockwise from left**: 1) *A grey-crowned crane*; 2) *Ostriches in the expansive plains of the Maasai Mara*; 3) *Hippo basking in the sun in the Mara River*. All photos © Mark Paul

We were back at camp by late morning for lunch and would go out again around 4 pm when the day had cooled off. Minnie was waiting to greet us, and the staff offered cool towels and refreshing juice. Sentinel Camp made this country boy feel like royalty.

The meals were excellent at all of the camps, but Sentinel food – “international cuisine” as Minnie put it – was especially amazing. The red snapper was just one of many highlights for me.

We shared stories at lunch with the other guests. One couple had seen a serval – we were all jealous. Not to be outdone, the next morning I had a close up look at an African wildcat. Within less than 24 hours, all the cats you could have seen in this part of Kenya had been spotted close to Sentinel Camp.

Leaving was tough. In a short period, the Sentinel staff had made this feel like home, and I admired their eco-efforts: no plastic bottles (they supplied a glass water bottle for everyone); water was heated exclusively by solar, and there was no plumbing – you received just the amount of water you needed when you needed it.

At Sentinel Camp you get the best of both worlds: the feeling of wilderness, sitting next to the Mara River watching hippos; but with a cool drink as a pleasant reminder that you are safe and in good hands.

An elephant herd making their way over the plains of the Maasai Mara © Mark Paul

Where to stay

LAKE MANZE TENTED CAMP
Lake Manze Tented Camp is situated deep inside the vast Selous Game Reserve in southern Tanzania, on the banks of Lake Manze. The authentic tented camp shelters under huge doum palms and is perfectly positioned to enjoy the daily ritual of elephants trampling the old, well-worn path that runs in front of the camp. The camp has 12 Meru style walk-in tents with stunning views across the lake, each with twin or double beds, flush toilet, outdoor shower and private veranda. There is a large thatched communal area above a sand floor, with armchairs and sofas for lounging with a drink to watch the animals come and go.

MDONYA OLD RIVER CAMP
Mdonya Old River Camp is situated deep inside the remote Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania. This rustic, authentic tented camp languishes in the shade of gigantic sycamore fig and winter thorn trees, on the winding banks of the scenic Mdonya sand river. The camp has 12 traditional safari tents spaced out along the river, each comfortably furnished and featuring verandahs, en-suite bathrooms with dressing room, open-roofed solar-heated shower and separate flush toilets. The large verandahs are ideal for relaxing and viewing the passing wildlife.

SENTINEL MARA CAMP
Sentinel Mara Camp is a non-permanent tented safari camp set up each season in a forest along the banks of the Mara River in one of the prime areas of the renowned Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. Accommodation consists of seven large en-suite tents, sheltering under large trees, each with excellent views of the Mara River. Each tent is tastefully furnished with campaign furniture to capture the romance and adventure of a bygone era.

Have a look at the bucket-list safaris in Tanzania and Kenya:

• Serengeti great migration safari (4 days)
• Maasai Mara Secret Season (6 days)
• Maasai Mara Migration Season Safari (7 days)
• Family safari in the Maasai Mara (6 days)
• Walking with Giants in Tsavo (13 days)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Mark Paul

Mark Paul is a former high school biology and environmental science teacher who loves to travel and share his passion for the outdoors with others. When he is not immersed in nature, he loves to play acoustic guitar and electric bass, bike, hike and swim. Mark is now a freelance photographer, writer and videographer living in Starksboro, VT, USA with his wife and three dogs.

Join our Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari

This is possibly the most exciting Maasai Mara photographic safari that we have seen in a while. Award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen will host four lucky Africa Geographic guests for nine days / eight nights, making use of a specially-adapted vehicle to secure epic wildlife images.
The Maasai Mara is renowned for the large numbers of resident big cats and, of course, for the Great Wildebeest Migration. A little-known secret about the Mara is that the best time to see and photograph the big cats is during the so-called ‘Secret Season’ when you get to encounter the cats without the crowds of tourists that follow the migration. Our July 2019 safari with Arnfinn is timed to avoid the crowds that arrive a month later and to give you the best chance of taking epic photos.
Arnfinn will ensure that you get up close and personal with Mara’s fantastic wildlife, and find those unique angles and light conditions that make the difference between good photos and truly amazing photos.
Before you read the details of this superb safari here, scroll down to see some incredible photos taken by Arnfinn in the Maasai Mara.

Cheetah sitting in the long grass of the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/640 sec at f/5.6. ISO 2000

“The open grassland savannah of the Maasai Mara suits cheetahs, making this one of the best places to find and photograph these elegant cats. Composition is important, and sometimes open landscapes without distractions are the best way to emphasise the essence of the subject.”

Two lions mating in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/125 sec at f/8. ISO 16,000

“These mating lions were photographed using a remote-controlled buggy with wifi control for the camera. Before dispatching the buggy, we always make sure that it will not intrude or scare the lions. We often make use of early morning and late night light, which we enhance with special torches that add a soft and warm dimension – resulting in images that are very different to those taken in broad daylight.”

Serval cat in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/1600 sec at f/5. ISO 2500

“Some view the serval as our most elegant cat, and a sighting is never guaranteed. This exquisite portrait was taken in fading light, again from the low angle of the specially-adapted game drive vehicle. Our drivers/guides are extremely skilled regarding the positioning of the vehicle, and we often position ourselves and wait for shy species like this to approach us – making for relaxed subjects and natural images.”

Maasai child against sunset in Maasai Mara — Moody skies and fading light create the backdrop for this exquisite portrait of a Maasai child © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/800 sec at f/5.6. ISO 320

“The camp we stay at is located near Oltepesi Village, which is a genuine Maasai village. This close proximity to the village provides a unique opportunity to learn about the Maasai way of living, adding an authentic cultural experience to the journey. The villagers are our partners, and we have permission to photograph and film without asking for permission. Also, guests can choose to spend a night in a traditional Maasai house.”

Ostrich carcass with lion in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/400 sec at f/11. ISO 400

“Positioning a remote-controlled camera near a carcass will often produce excellent results for the patient photographer. Patiently staking out a kill site gives us time to plan photographs and understand the ebb and flow of life and death on the plains.”

Leopard up close in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/500 sec at f/4.5. ISO 4500

“Some photographers want their subjects to walk into full view; others capture each moment for what it is. This resting leopard provided the ideal opportunity to exploit the gaps in the vegetation to take close-ups and emphasise the animal’s habitat.”

Topi sparring in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 400/2.8E, 1/500 at f/3.2. ISO 450

“This image of two topi sparring against a bruised and moody early morning sky was taken on foot, which we do as often as possible to achieve freedom of movement.”

Gazelle newborn about to be caught by a cheetah in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/1250 at f/4. ISO 360

“Moments such as this cheetah hunting a newborn Thomson’s gazelle are rarely captured from this perspective. The young cheetahs played with the calf for almost 45 minutes before finishing it off. We were caught in the middle of the drama, and although we felt sorry for the victim, we also felt privileged to have witnessed this life and death struggle.”

Kirk's dik-dik in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/250 at f/4. ISO 6,400

“The tiny Kirk’s dik-dik is a common resident of the Maasai Mara. Understanding the habits of animals can be crucial to taking great photos. The shy dik-dik will usually run away from vehicles, but in this case, it had sensed a leopard and was standing still to avoid detection. We used the opportunity to observe and take fantastic photos of this reclusive species.”

Young lion approaching camera in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/160 sec at f/11. ISO 2,500

“Wide-angle photography of lions with a specially built remote-controlled buggy with wifi control for the camera provides a different perspective. One has to be sensitive to the lion’s behaviour and make sure not to intrude or scare them.”

African buffalo covered in mud in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/2000 at f/5.6. ISO 3,600

“Craggy buffalo males make for excellent photographic subjects, especially when covered in mud. This photograph was taken in harsh light, and zooming in allowed me to avoid the bright background, and I edited out the harsh glare.”

Cheetah in the rain in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4, Nikkor 600/4 VR, 1/250 sec at f/5. ISO 1000

“Good photographers make use of ‘bad’ weather to capture intimate moments, often set against dramatic skies and the movement of driving rain. When shooting in the rain, you should choose a longer shutter speed than usual, depending on how hard the rain is. Use of a wide aperture provides the blurred foreground and background and enhances the sense of drama.”

Elephants in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D4s, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 VRII @ 95mm, 1/500 sec at f/5.6. ISO 1,400

“The expansive Maasai Mara is the perfect canvas for herds of elephants set against dramatic, threatening skies. Photographing in silhouette emphasises the animals’ characteristics, and we actively seek out opportunities such as this during the early morning and late evening light.”

Lioness approaching camera in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/250 sec at f/11. ISO 3,200

“Lions are curious creatures, and will often approach strange-looking objects to investigate. A low perspective is the alpha and omega, for both telephoto and wide-angle photography. Our safari vehicle is specially designed for low-angle photography.”

Cheetah cub and mom in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 600/4E, 1/1250 sec at f/5.6. ISO 1,000

“This tender moment between a cheetah mother and her kitten is cropped tightly to enhance the feeling of intimacy. Catching interactions like this takes great patience, with moments like this often occurring unexpectedly and without warning. Having an off-road permit is crucial in that it gives us the freedom to spend time with the subject without the disturbance of other vehicles.”

Male lion in the Maasai Mara at sunset — A relaxed lion surveys his kingdom © Arnfinn Johansen – Nikon D5, Nikkor 16-35/4 VR @ 18mm, 1/10 sec at f/8. ISO 12,800

“The ground-level perspective and subtle lighting against a moody backdrop enhance the sense of drama in this photo of a relaxed lion. The use of suitably angled torch light fills in the dark spots and adds a degree of drama.”

Inside a specially-adapted photographic safari vehicle — © Arnfinn Johansen

Arnfinn’s game drive vehicle is custom-built for photographers. The vehicle is spacious, with eight seats for four guests – allowing you to move around easily. The sides of the vehicle have no window glass, and low frames – for better panning and action photography. The roof is removable, allowing you to photograph from a high perspective.
It is also possible to remove one row of seats, to permit the lowest possible shooting angle. The vehicle has canvas instead of a back door, for photography at animal eye level. There are 230-volt power outlets for charging of batteries. The vehicle design also makes for easy use of tripods, monopods and bean bags. Beans bags of various sizes are provided.

Photographer taking photos from a specially-adapted photographic safari vehicle — © Bjørn H. Stuedal

A guest demonstrates how Arnfinn’s specially-adapted game drive vehicle, with a safe ground-level vantage point, delivers angles and perspectives for epic photos and wonderfully intimate wildlife encounters.

Inside a tent in the Maasai Mara with Maasai woman — © Arnfinn Johansen

Your accommodation is in large canvas safari tents, with en-suite bathroom facilities (including shower and flush toilet) and plenty of room to organise your camera equipment for each day’s adventure.

Tent accommodation in the Maasai Mara — © Arnfinn Johansen

Your basecamp is on the outskirts of a Maasai village bordering the Maasai Mara, with daily game drives in the reserve. This unique positioning offers a unique and authentic insight (and excellent photographic opportunities) into the traditional lives of these pastoral herdsmen. This unique safari provides genuine empowerment to local people who live amongst the Maasai Mara wildlife, there being no fences to restrict the movement of wildlife.

Celebrating Africa’s Landscapes

Landscape photography is regarded as the art of capturing an image of nature and the outdoors in a way that allows the viewer to be absorbed into the scene and witness the incredible beauty for themselves. It’s about bridging that connection between the viewer, the photographer, and the landscape, allowing the chance for the viewer to feel those same emotions that the photographer felt when taking the photo. From sparse deserts to lush, green deltas, landscape photography highlights the best nature has to offer, and today we share some of those incredible scenes with you to admire and appreciate.
In this gallery, Celebrating Africa’s Landscapes, we are taking a look at some incredible scenes from around Africa, through the lens of some incredibly talented photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2016, 2017 and 2018 competitions. Please take your time and enjoy this stunning gallery with us.

“An aerial view above Sossusvlei just before sunset presents the perfect specimen of Namibia’s unspoilt desert beauty. Probably one of the most spectacular places in Namibia, the way the sunset plays on the ancient dunes transforms them into a stunning red and orange masterpiece.” ~ Panos Laskarakis

“In Africa, the most famous waterfalls are Victoria Falls, where Dr David Livingstone was quoted as saying ‘they are so beautiful angels must have flown here’. I can only say that the angels must have flown via Epupa! I fumbled around in the dark with a head torch trying to find safe ground to place my tripod, the roar of the Falls in the background. There were a few hairy moments as I slipped and skidded on the wet rocks to take up my position, but it was well worth the effort; I think it added something to the drama of the moment!” ~ Charlie Lynam

? The ‘Madonna and her Worshippers’ rock formation in the Drakensberg, South Africa © Carl Smorenburg (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101)

“The Madonna and her Worshippers is a massive outcrop in the northern Drakensberg, South Africa. It is a long two-day hike up Fangs pass to get there. The epic light, followed by a huge storm, was worth the suffering though.” ~ Carl Smorenburg

? “Rainforest in the mist” in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“We were on the way to Lake Bunyonyi, having left Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in the early morning. Along the way, we stopped at the edge of the forest, and this incredible view presented itself of the misty mountains of Uganda.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

“My wife, Anne, and I hiked up Lions Head before sunrise to get this photograph of Table Mountain, complete with the tablecloth. To the left lies Cape Town city bowl, the harbour and Signal Hill. On the right is Bakoven, Camps Bay and Clifton, and of course that fantastic rainbow. Capturing such a photograph made it worth getting up early.” ~ Denis Roschlau

? Storm approaching in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Rory Ouwerkerk (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

? Madagascar’s ‘Avenue of the Baobabs’ in western Madagascar © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“I just love it when a place exceeds my expectations once I actually experience it in person, even though I have looked at thousands of images before. The Allée des Baobabs in Madagascar will forever stand out as one of those places.” ~ Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

? Aerial view of the Jao Concession in north-western Okavango Delta, Botswana © Mike McCaffrey (Photographer of the Year 2017 entrant)

? Lake Bunyonyi surrounded by green-terraced hills and scattered with 29 islands © Helen Suk (Photographer of the Year 2016 entrant)

“The White Desert in Egypt is a small but spectacular part of the eastern Sahara. The best time to take photographs in the desert is in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun creates magnificent effects with shadows and light.” ~ Sepp Friedhuber

Elephant poaching: Botswana gov provides context, questions irresponsible reporting

Sourced from third-party site: Botswana Government (Facebook)

Stories are doing the rounds about the discovery of at least 87 elephant carcasses in Botswana, sparking an international outcry over what is being called the largest scale of elephant poaching to date.

The following is a letter from the Botswana government in response to the elephant poaching statistics:

The Government of Botswana has noted with concern unsubstantiated and sensational media reports on elephant poaching statistics in Botswana carried by some local and international media attributed to Elephants Without Borders (EWB), a non-governmental organisation contracted by the Botswana Government to carry out the dry season aerial survey of elephants and wildlife in northern Botswana covering Chobe, Okavango, Ngamiland and North Central District. The stories allege that about 90 elephants have been indiscriminately killed recently.

To this end, the Government of Botswana wishes to inform members of the public and other key stakeholders that these statistics are false and misleading. At no point in the last months or recently were 87 or 90 elephants killed in one incident in any place in Botswana.

The Government of Botswana wishes to further inform that the survey conducted by EWB started on 5th July 2018 and is expected to end by 30th September 2018.

During the conduct of the survey from 5th July up to 1st August 2018, EWB reported that they had come across 53 elephant carcasses which were incidents that had already been cumulatively reported officially to the Government as early as July and August of this year.

Of the aforementioned 53 reported, a verification mission between July and August established that the majority were not poached but rather died from natural causes and retaliatory killings as a result of human and wildlife conflicts.

The Government of Botswana wishes to state that it is unfortunate that some media reports attribute the rise in elephant poaching primarily to the withdrawal of weapons from the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) anti-poaching unit. The fact of the matter is that the withdrawal of such weapons from DWNP, did not in any way affect the effectiveness and operations of the anti-poaching units.

It should be noted that the Government of Botswana has from the 1980s directed all security agencies to commit resources towards anti-poaching, a practice that continues to this date. Therefore the withdrawal of weapons from DWNP has not created any vacuum in anti-poaching operations as the anti-poaching unit in DWNP continues to play a pivotal role in combating wildlife crime through other strategic interventions.

Furthermore the public is informed that withdrawing weapons from DWNP is in line with the existing legislation which does not allow the Department of Wildlife and National Parks to own such weapons. This action was taken whilst corrective measures are to be undertaken.

In conclusion, the Government of Botswana wishes to condemn in the strongest terms possible attempts by individuals or groups who give a false impression that they love Botswana wildlife more than citizens of Botswana. Government wishes to reiterate the fact that wildlife remains a national heritage and our citizens will protect it at all costs.

Thank you.

Thato Y. Raphaka
PERMANENT SECRETARY

Elephant bones in Botswana, with rangers — Elephant bones found during the investigation © Botswana Government (Facebook)

Namibian ‘problem’ lion dies during relocation, remaining five are safe in a private reserve

Desert-adapted lion in Namibia — Nkosi – XPL 110 – died during translocation from the Ugab River in mid-August 2018 © Inki Mandt

The attempted relocation of six Namibian desert-adapted lions (3 adults and 3 cubs) from the Daures area (Erongo region) to Skeleton Coast Nation has failed, and the subsequent relocation of the same lions to a private game reserve in the Khomas Region was dogged in controversy as one lion died in the process.

According to Namibia’s Ministry of the Environment & Tourism (MET), the six lions were twice relocated to Skeleton Coast after they caused “problems” (communities were reporting ongoing livestock losses) in their home range in the Erongo region, and on both occasions, the lions returned to their home ranges. MET subsequently decided to relocate the lions to the 9,500 hectare N/a’an ku sê wildlife sanctuary where they “will not cause any problems”.

The male lion, Nkosi – XPL 110, died during this relocation, reportedly of “capture stress”. The adult lions had previously been collared for a monitoring and early warning system, as part of MET’s attempts to deal with ongoing human-lion conflict in the area.

MET advised that the relocated lions would remain the property of MET, and will be relocated to a national park once MET is “satisfied with their behaviour”.

In a Facebook discussion, Izak Smit of Desert Lions Human Relations Aid (DeLRHA) questioned the death of a male lion in the prime of his life. He also questioned why MET would tranquillise and move a lactating female with three cubs and a heavily pregnant female lion.

Smit also commented that “The male and females are of outstanding genetic material and their absence will leave the pride with 5 sub-adults of about 2.7 and 3 years old, two females and three males whom are all closely related (siblings or cousins). This could mean third generation in-breeding as there is no known record of “outside” males, i.e. new blood.”

In their statement, MET suggested that the lions were being fed by people in the vicinity of White Lady Lodge in the Daures area of Erongo, hence their returning to the area after two unsuccessful relocations. This claim was rejected by Smit, who countered that, to the best of his knowledge, the lions were targeting hobbled donkeys and sheep kept in a flimsy kraal near the lodge. In reply to questions on Facebook, he suggested that there is no evidence of “blatant feeding” of lions in order to lure them for viewing by tourists, and asked why no charges had been filed if this was the case.

Smit did concede that White Lady Lodge does have a history of keeping livestock in poorly constructed kraals, and of losing a large number of livestock to lions.

Climbing Kili

Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro, at 5,895m high, is Africa’s tallest mountain, the world’s highest free-standing peak, and one of the famed ‘Seven Summits’.

Climbing Kilimanjaro is classified as an extreme altitude mountain trek, but with proper preparation, climbing ‘Kili’ can be an achievable goal and a life-changing experience.

Rising from the plains of Tanzania, Kilimanjaro gives climbers a taste of a wide variety of vegetation zones; starting with tropical forest, then heath and moorland, which give way to a highland lava desert, before ultimately reaching the summit zone – a moonscape of rock, ice and scree.

Rock cairns dwarfed by Mount Kilimanjaro in the distance © Shelley Hyne — Rock cairns dwarfed by Mount Kilimanjaro © Shelley Hyne

Climbing Kilimanjaro is not ‘a walk in the park’, and it presents considerable physical challenges. The oxygen level at the summit is only 50% of that at sea level, so altitude sickness is an ever-present threat. The temperature at the base averages 35°C, while at the summit it can plummet to minus 25ºC with a stiff wind.

The summit is ice-capped, with five glaciers carrying snow down the mountain’s flanks. Roughly 60-70% of climbers attempting Kilimanjaro will reach the top. If you want to be one of those successful climbers, then there are several factors to take into consideration.

Summit of Mount Kilimanjaro with climbers — Climbers celebrate at the summit © Shelley Hyne

THE ROUTES

There are seven established routes up Kilimanjaro, and these routes not only vary in length, cost and scenery but also in difficulty and success rates. There is an eighth route, Mweka, used for descents only.

Selecting a Kilimanjaro climb route is one of the most important decisions you have to make. There is no single ‘best route’ up the mountain, and the best route for you depends on several factors, including the availability of time and money, previous experience, fitness level and the time of year.

THE MARANGU ROUTE
Marangu is mistakenly thought of as an easy route with a short ascent but is a more serious and difficult climb as there is less time to acclimatise. Due to the negative repercussions on some climbers regarding acclimatisation, there is a lower success rate – with roughly 30% of climbers reaching the summit.

THE MACHAME ROUTE
This is the most popular and crowded climbing route. Machame is considered the best route of all, albeit slightly tougher than the Marangu route. It is very scenic, with proper acclimatisation – but be prepared for crowds (especially on summit night). Approximately 60% of climbers reach the summit.

THE RONGAI ROUTE
With arguably the best acclimatisation, this is probably the ‘easiest’ route. It is away from the crowds, and climbers make their way through true wilderness areas before joining the Marangu route at Kibo hut camp. This route has an excellent success rate, with roughly 70% of climbers reaching the summit.

**Caption:** *Kilimanjaro provides climbers with a wide variety of vegetation zones, from lush, tropical forest and moorland, to a windswept, moonscape alpine desert.* Photos by © Shelley Hyne, Mariska Nell and Sarah Kingdom

THE SHIRA ROUTE
This route takes you into some serious altitude (3,500 metres) from day 1, which can hurt if you live at sea level and haven’t had the time to acclimatise. There is generally low traffic on this route before it merges with the Machame route at Baranco.

THE LEMOSHO ROUTE
Probably the most beautiful route, but also the most expensive. Like the Shira route, this one also merges with the Machame route, so everything said about that route remains relevant here. It is a longer route, allowing time for proper acclimatisation, and therefore the success rate is also reasonable. The best option for those who want a wilderness experience, but for whom cost is not the primary consideration.

THE UMBWE ROUTE
The most difficult and demanding route on Kilimanjaro and the most spectacular. It is not a very technical route but is very direct, very steep, very tough and in parts, very exposed. Again, this route joins the Machame route. Due to the level of difficulty, the success rate is low – so don’t consider it unless you have experienced climbing mountains.

THE NORTHERN CIRCUIT
This is the newest route and also the longest. It is good for acclimatisation, and you’ll find very few climbers here. It is the only route to traverse all of the northern slopes on a circumnavigation of the mountain. Due to how long it takes to climb, and how it is easier to acclimatise properly, the summit success rate is quite high.

Aside from choosing your route up Kilimanjaro, there are several other factors to think about as you prepare for this epic adventure – read on to find out more.

Mount Kilimanjaro with climber in foreground — A lone climber and the majestic Kilimanjaro © Shelley Hyne

TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE

The highland areas of East Africa have a pleasant, temperate climate throughout the year, with a long rainy season from mid-March to June (an ideal safari month), and a second, shorter rainy period from October to late December. The maximum daytime temperature you can expect to encounter at the base of Kilimanjaro is around 28ºC, dropping to 15ºC at night. At 3,000m (10,000ft), daytime temperatures are 15ºC.

Above 4,000m (13,000ft), nighttime temperatures will fall below freezing, and it will be no more than 10ºC during the day (although in the heat of the sun it will feel warmer than this). Summit night will be your coldest, and you can expect temperatures to drop to -25ºC, with cold winds.

Summit night
Summit night is when climbers make the final ascent to Uhuru Point (5,895m). Usually, climbers are woken up at 10 pm and start the gruelling, steep climb (which can take 6 to 8 hours) to reach the top by sunrise. During this time climbers are exposed to potentially sub-zero temperatures and strong winds while hiking slowly.

Northern Ice Field on Kilimanjaro, glacier — The Northern Ice Field is near the summit of Kilimanjaro, on the west slope of the peak © Shelley Hyne

WHAT TO CARRY

Keep it light! What you are expected to carry during the day on the trail is a day pack with all the things that you may require throughout the day (such as your camera, extra batteries, water bottle, packed lunch, snacks, waterproofs, toilet paper, and a fleece or a jumper).

The rest of your trekking gear should be packed in a large, tough duffle bag. It will be carried by your porters (not the best place for a fragile bag!). The packed weight of your duffle bag while on the mountain should be no more than 15kg. You should be provided with a suggested packing list by your trekking company.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *Camping in the moorlands*; 2) *The temperature on summit night can drop to -25 deg C with cold winds*; 3) *The gear you take is important to protect you from the harsh, cold environment – this includes a good pair of hiking boots*; 4) *A fleece top with waterproof jacket will help keep the cold out at the higher elevations*. All photos © Sarah Kingdom

Footwear
A good pair of waterproof, broken-in boots are essential. Few things will make you more miserable during the trek than blisters, and these are certain to occur if your boots are not broken in. If buying new boots, buy them as soon as you can and wear them as much as possible before the trek.

Clothes
All that is usually needed during the day is a T-shirt and trousers. However, warm clothes will come into play in the mornings and evenings when the temperatures drop, and you aren’t doing much physically. Here is a brief list of what you should include in your packing list:

• A good base layer with a T-shirt on top will keep you warm and dry.
• Mid-layers provide insulation (e.g. a mid-weight fleece top), and if you really feel the cold, then substitute the fleece layer with a down jacket.
• The outer layer is the final layer between you and the elements and must be capable of keeping out the wind, rain, sleet and snow. Any good waterproof/windproof jacket should do the job.
• Legwear in the form of thermal long johns is invaluable for summit night.
• Gloves (thin and thick).
• A good sun hat is essential. Also, a beanie (woollen hat) for warmth, a balaclava for face coverage, and a headlamp.
• Sunglasses which offer 100% UV protection are necessary to combat strong sunlight and snow reflection.

Sleeping bag
A good quality sleeping bag ensures a good night’s sleep (-15 degrees is recommended). Do not compromise on your sleeping bag, as carrying a light one will give you many sleepless nights.

**Left:** *Hikers getting ready to start the next leg of the climb*; **Right:** *The Askari Project team who climbed Kilimanjaro in 2017 for Tsavo’s elephants.* Both photos © Sarah Kingdom

Final notes

Crew
You should expect your group to be led by an experienced mountain guide, with the help of a Tanzanian local guide who has considerable experience leading climbs on Kilimanjaro. Depending on size, each group would typically have a main guide, a local lead guide, four assistant guides, one cook, a few assistant cooks and three porters per person.

Food
Food on the mountain is usually a mix of local and European dishes, all cooked by the team cook. The emphasis is on a high carbohydrate and easily digestible and largely vegetarian diet, especially at high altitude.

Altitude considerations
The principal difficulty for anyone aspiring to climb Kilimanjaro is the mountain’s considerable height, rising abruptly from the plains. In high mountain ranges, acclimatisation is usually achieved by approaching the ultimate objective by crossing a series of ridges, gaining height gradually. This is not possible on free-standing peaks like Kilimanjaro.

The process of acclimatisation does take time, and the most important rule is to gain height slowly. If you have suffered serious problems at altitude before, you should seek the advice of your doctor or a specialist. I strongly recommended the medication Diamox as I found it helps to acclimatise (not suitable for people allergic to sulphur drugs), though please make sure first to consult your local practitioner when it comes to choosing the right medication.

Training for the climb
On some days you will only be walking for 3 to 5 hours, while on the longest day, to the summit of Kilimanjaro, you can expect to have a 12-15 hour day. As the duration of the climb is relatively short, you need to be in good shape right from the start. Training for at least two months before the climb is pretty essential. People with poor fitness levels will find the trip extremely tough, even impossible.

Mount Kilimanjaro with climbers — The long road to Kili © Shelley Hyne

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, SARAH KINGDOM

Travel writer, mountain guide and mother, Sarah Kingdom was born and brought up in Sydney, Australia. Coming to Africa at 21, she fell in love with the continent and stayed. Sarah guides on Kilimanjaro several times a year and has lost count of how many times she has stood on the roof of Africa. She has climbed and guided throughout the Himalayas and now spends most of her time visiting remote places in Africa. When she is not travelling, she runs a cattle ranch in Zambia with her husband.

Oral vaccination protects Ethiopian wolves – Africa’s most endangered carnivore

Ethiopian wolf eating bait laced with a vaccine — An Ethiopian wolf takes bait containing the rabies vaccine © Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Press release by Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Over the past month, a team from the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme (EWCP) implemented the first oral vaccination campaign to pre-empt outbreaks of rabies among Ethiopian wolves, the world’s most endangered canid, in their stronghold in the Bale Mountains of southern Ethiopia.

This is a turning point in the plight to save Ethiopian wolves from extinction, following a decade of intensive research, field trials and awareness work, led by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit and funding from the Born Free Foundation among others. Working alongside the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority, regular oral vaccination campaigns will now expand to all six extant wolf populations to enhance their chance of survival.

There are fewer than 500 Ethiopian wolves in the world, all in the wild and highly exposed to infectious diseases transmitted by domestic dogs.

“Thirty years ago I witnessed an outbreak of rabies which killed the majority of the wolves I had followed closely for my doctoral studies,” said Prof Claudio Sillero, EWCP Director and Founder. “We have learnt much about these wolves and their Afroalpine homes since. By the time we detect rabies in a wolf population, already many animals are fatally infected and doomed. We now know that pre-emptive vaccination is necessary to save many wolves from a horrible death and to keep small and isolated populations outside the vortex of extinction. I whole-heartily celebrate the team’s achievement”.

Long-term programmes and targeted research are the cornerstones of biological conservation, as success often relays on an intimate knowledge of the workings of populations, the behaviour of individuals and the social, political and economic context. With a generous donation from Virbac of 3,000 SAG2 oral vaccines, EWCP has launched a vaccination strategy, guided by strong empirical information and predictive modelling, and a key component of the National Action Plan for the conservation of the species.

The Ethiopian wolf is the most threatened canid in the world and the only wolf species to be found in Africa © Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme

Muktar Abute, the EWCP vet team leader, described the vaccination plan : “Vaccine contained within a meat bait were distributed at night time to three Ethiopian wolf packs. Our target is to immunise at least 40% of all wolves in each population, reaching as many family packs as possible, including the dominant pair – on which pack stability largely depends. We recorded good uptake, with 88% of 119 baits deployed consumed over two nights. Using camera traps we monitored bait consumption, and we will next measure rabies titres levels in blood, to confirm the effectiveness of the vaccine over a larger sample than that of the trials”.

Oral vaccination using SAG2 has been successful in controlling, and even eradicating, rabies in wild carnivore populations in Europe. This approach now raises hopes for the survival of one of the rarest and most specialised carnivore species.

Preventive vaccination can improve the status of other threatened wildlife, and the Ethiopian wolf experience may lead to other practitioners to embrace it as part of their conservation tool kit, in a world demanding closer control of pathogens shared by wildlife, domestic animals and humans.

Watch a video below of a young Ethiopian wolf taking the bait

httpv://youtu.be/Ll2R5SSlWRg

RESOURCES

Elsevier. Sillero-Zubiri C, Marino J, Gordon CH, Bedin E, Hussein A, Regassa F, Banyard A and Fooks AR (2016): Feasibility and efficacy of oral rabies vaccine SAG2 in endangered Ethiopian wolves

Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (2017): National Action Plan for the conservation of the Ethiopian wolf (revised version 2017)

Big Cats in the Rain

”I think that the world should be full of cats and full of rain, that’s all, just cats and rain, rain and cats, very nice, good night.” ~ Charles Bukowski, ‘Betting on the Muse: Poems and Stories’
Cats and rain don’t generally go well together. However, if you’re a big cat in the African wild, then it is pretty challenging to avoid those epic, rainy season downpours, and at other times the occasional passing shower. For those mighty felines, it’s just something they’ve learnt to live with – even if it looks like they are not enjoying it!
That said, there is something magical and enchanting about seeing leopards, lions and cheetahs in the rain, and for both amateur and professional photographers alike, these scenes can produce some stunning images. For that reason, we are sharing with you today some of the incredible and captivating Big Cats in the Rain photos, taken by our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018 competition entrants. Enjoy!

? Waiting for the rain to pass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Willem Kruger (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

“It was a hot day in the park, and as we were near Kampersboom, we came across two lionesses and one male lion lying in the shade. We decided to leave them be and drove on. About 10 km further in we saw some dark clouds with rain and lightning approaching us. Then we realised that the rain would move directly over the lions – so we turned around and waited patiently with the lions for the rain to arrive. It was interesting to see that when raindrops started to fall, the lions got up from under the trees and walked to the middle of the riverbed where they just sat there, waiting for the rain to pass. They did not look very impressed with the rain.” ~ Willem Kruger

? A magical shower in Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania © George Turner (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 5 Commendable Finalist)

“Habitat loss, illegal trade and human conflict have led to cheetah numbers plummeting to under 8,000 globally and less than 100 in Asia. I wanted to capture the vulnerability of the species in one, single image. I’d dreamt of chunky raindrops being illuminated by a distant light, with a storm overhead. With the forecast right, I waited in the hope that a cheetah would pass. He did. The image doesn’t shout ‘doom’ for a reason, and the ethereal effect of the light and raindrops highlights an element of hope.” ~ George Turner

“Two cheetah brothers getting drenched during a heavy downpour in the Maasai Mara.” ~ Shivang Mehta

? “Lioness in the rain” in Ndutu, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This photo was taken in the marshes of the Ndutu region. It was already evening and raining, and a pride of lions lay in the grass awaiting the arrival of the wildebeest. This particular lioness has risen to search the area for prey.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

? Leopard hunting in the rain in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Willie van Schalkwyk (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This female leopard was photographed while hunting in the pouring rain in the Kgalagadi.” ~ Willie van Schalkwyk

? Affectionate lion brothers in the rain in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Johan J. Botha (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“Lion brothers during an affectionate greeting in the rain.” ~ Johan J. Botha

? “Licking party” – a mother and her four cubs in the rain in Ndutu, Tanzania © Roie Galitz (Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalist)

“It is not easy, and quite rare these days, for cheetah mothers to successfully raise all of her cubs to adulthood. They must overcome major struggles, like habitat loss, climate change and droughts. This is why I was so happy to capture this delightful sight of a mother and her four grown cubs coming together to celebrate the welcomed rainfall, after the long hot days in the savannah of Tanzania.” ~ Roie Galitz

“It was a rainy day in the Maasai Mara, and we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time, as these two lion brothers gave us some amazing photographic moments in the rain.” ~ Subhash Nair

“It was a Sunday family outing in the Nairobi National Park. After witnessing the beautiful early morning sunrise and a day-long drive throughout the park, we were on our way back when we saw two lionesses with their five cubs playing. I started to take photos when it started drizzling, though the rain didn’t stop them from playing. However, one of the lionesses then stood up – she seemed to have mixed emotions on her face. It was that moment, captured in this photo, that I will never forget.” ~ Nagaraj Tilakraj

The wet or green season in the Maasai Mara happens from November to April. In this season there are two rainy periods: the short rains in November and the heavy rains in April and May. Many lodges and camps may close over the heavy rainy period because dirt roads turn muddy, rivers flood their banks, and visitor numbers are lower.

? A cheetah walks in the rain in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Thorsten Hanewald (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This photo was taken in the Maasai Mara during the rainy season. The grass was extremely high and the trails muddy, and I spotted this cheetah using the trails to move about.” ~ Thorsten Hanewald

Elephants: Listen to the people of the Okavango – opinion

Elephants in the Okavango Delta in Botswana

Opinion post: Written by Thalefang Charles (sourced from third-party site: Mmegi)

SERONGA: Two days after the World Elephant Day on August 12, just after the worldwide thumb activists stopped tweeting their beautiful elephant images and messages calling for the protection of the last remaining gentle giants, an elephant killed a man near Gunotsoga in the Ngamiland, east of the Okavango Delta panhandle.

This is a story of the area that is popularly known as ‘Overseas’ in Botswana. It is dubbed Overseas because of its remoteness – to access the area involves either crossing the river with a ferry at Mohembo or flying in.

This remote eastern side of the Okavango Delta, an area of about 8,000 square kilometres is home to over 16,000 people who are living with just over 18,000 elephants. It is one of the unique places in the world, where elephants outnumber people.

The people of the area are battling to learn to live amongst the growing population of elephants, although at times it feels in vain, like this week when they have to bury another victim of an elephant trampling.

The entire area has no tarred road, even though it has some of the country’s most scenic villages. Every day the people observe an elephant curfew and seek refuge in their homesteads made out of letlhaka or river reeds. After sunset herds of elephants come from inland past the villages to the river.

Standing by the Ngarange riverside watching the mighty Okavango River stretching wide as far back as the eye can see or the beautiful high grounds of Sekondomboro overlooking the evergreen river plain are special sights. And it is clear from all the villages lined along the scenic river why the people decided to settle there. The area is incredibly beautiful and the perennial mighty river is a source of life to almost all the living creatures around the area.

On this side of the river, just after the Mohembo Ferry is the village of Mohembo East. It is the first settlement in Overseas in the NG11. In there Kgosi Mothohelo begins with complaints of too many elephants. He says, “Most of the elephants that are troubling us are from a park [Mahango Game Park] in Namibia. They destroy our crops, especially at Kutakae along the border”.

Mothohelo suggests that the government should provide wildlife guards to camp around Kutakae during the farming season so that they could assist in driving the elephants away from their farms.

Elephant crossing fence in South Africa — Image source: The Dodo

Twenty kilometres from Mohembo East past Kauxwi and Xakao is the village of Sekombondoro. There Kgosi Mbindira Matabo reveals that they too have many elephants. Matabo suggests that hunting tenders of elephants should be brought back to control their growing population. He also recommends that the government should increase the number of game wardens in the area during the farming season.

Kgosi Keemetse Johane from Ngarange says an elephant attacked and nearly killed a person in April this year and the incident has sent shockwaves in the village.

“We are now living in fear. We can’t go and look after our cattle or travel to our lands, which are far from the village because we are scared of elephants,” Johane says.

He requested the government to speed up the compensation process after wildlife damages and find ways that the people would realise the benefit of the wildlife so that they do not see them just as dangerous beasts that are hazardous to their lives.

After Ngarange is the village of Mokgacha, located at an area with beautiful big trees and there, Kgosi Joshua Gwexa also complains about the elephants.

He says, “Here the elephants are so many that during the ploughing season we did not plant anything because of the many elephants in the area. After sunset, we do not go out at night. So we support the lifting of the hunting ban because we feel it might help with the elephants’ movement”.

The village of Seronga is located at the end of the panhandle as the Okavango River transforms into a delta. Seronga is the largest village in the area and its leader Kgosi Maeze Maeze holds major influence in Overseas. Kgosi Maeze says the elephant population in the area is threatening the existence of other species.

“There are many elephants here and they have destroyed the vegetation. Our goats and small wild animals are under threat because there is not enough grass for eating and hiding. They are out of control,” Maeze reports. “The people are not cultivating crops because of the elephants and they now rely on government destitute programmes although they are able and capable to feed themselves.”

The Seronga chief also welcomed the move to lift the hunting ban saying it would assist in controlling of the elephant population in their area.

Elephants walking down a road in Botswana

From Seronga, the road follows the Okavango spillway heading towards the Linyanti area. The first settlement on this road is Gunotsoga. Kgosi Gakegane Saoxo of Gunotsoga says they love elephants but they are now just too many.

“We want them here. They make our land beautiful and that is also why our grandparents lived here, but they are too many and that is problematic. We want to remain with a manageable number so the government must figure out how to do that, even with hunting it would help us,” Kgosi Saoxo states.

Kgosi Boitshwarelo Mosenyegi from Eretsha says some days the elephants do not even leave the village throughout the day.

“As we speak now, there are elephants in the middle of the village. People can’t access the river to fetch water because they are afraid of elephants. Right now they got small calves and they are extremely dangerous and we live in fear. So the government must find a way, whether through hunting or otherwise to reduce the numbers in our area,” Kgosi Mosenyegi argues.

After Eretsha is a village of Beetsha where Kgosi Bonang Karundu also reiterated other chiefs’ suggestions of finding a way to reduce elephants in the area.

Kgosi Karundu says, “We’ve got a lagoon in the village and the elephants drink here, which poses serious risk to many people. Some of these elephants are very aggressive as they attack people without any provocation”.

Another village elder from Beetsha, Marota Moriri suggested that elephants should be sold to other countries because they are just too many and are unmanageable in their area.

An elephant biologist based in the area, Dr Anna Songhurst of Ecoexist Project differs with the people’s reports of over-population of elephants. She reports that from their surveys of NG11 there are about 18,000 elephants. She argues that the assumption that there are too many elephants is not based on scientific fact, but it is mainly due to “more people encountering elephants”.

“I wouldn’t say there are too many elephants in the area. And I wouldn’t say that the current numbers are unsustainable,” notes Songhurst.

Songhurst suggests that the best solution is to create big movement corridors across the borders of Botswana, Namibia and Angola.

Anthropologist at Ecoexist Project, Dr Amanda Stronza who has been working with communities in the area to find solutions to co-exist with elephants says, “to ensure a future for elephants, we must partner with people to find solutions to human-elephant conflict and wildlife crime”.

“The world loves elephants, but who are the people that bear the costs of living with elephants? It’s people here in Botswana. People here experience relatively few benefits from elephants, and we talk a lot in our project on finding ways for the people to benefit from elephants,” says Stronza.

“If you care about elephants, the best thing is to support the people that live with elephants,” she challenges all elephant lovers.

Herd of elephants at a river in Botswana

‘Rise of the Matriarch’: International crew for SA-led all-women conservation expedition

The Elephant Ignite Expedition crew at Linyangwa School in Malawi — The first expedition was held in 2016, called the Elephant Ignite Expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

Final touches are being made to an all-women 50-day conservation adventure from South Africa into southern Africa. The Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition brings together 12 women from around the world who will travel 9,000 km across four countries to raise awareness about the contentious human-wildlife conflict.

Headed by Carla Geyser, a KwaZulu-Natal-based eco-warrior, humanitarian and founder of the NPO, Blue Sky Society Trust, the team will fan out across South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia next month in an epic 4×4 adventure that see them meeting women conservation heroes who are involved in extraordinary projects to help conserve Africa’s nature and wildlife.

South African conservationist and adventurer, Carla Geyser, with elephant being collared — South African conservationist and adventurer, Carla Geyser, is putting the finishing touches to her all-women *Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch* expedition that will see her leading a team of 11 women into southern Africa for as SOS conservation mission. Here she is during a elephant collaring exercise with the 2016 Elephant Ignite Expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

American wildlife biologist and conservation scientist, Jennifer Palmer, will fly in to join the team for 28 days. The 44-year old is the founder of Women for Wildlife – an international movement to support and unite women and girls around the world who are devoted to wildlife and conservation.

Palmer’s belief that the solutions to the world’s greatest wildlife challenges are found among the power and leadership of women, is what drew her to the Journey’s with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition. “I’m looking forward to being part of a dedicated team of inspiring women, being back in the field connecting with on-the-ground conservation projects and offering support in whatever way I am able. I also can’t wait to connect with communities and wildlife along the journey.”

For 41-year old Durban-born Bronwyn Laing, this will be her second conservation mission with Geyser. Laing, who now lives in Tanzania, was part of South Africa’s first all-women expedition to Kenya in 2016 that was also headed by Geyser. That experience has helped manage her expectations this time around. She will join the team for the final two weeks of the expedition.

“Having done this before, I know what an incredible experience it is,” Laing says.”Carla puts a lot of time and effort into getting to know the organisations that we support. This allows us to have a unique behind the scenes look at the exceptional work that is being done to conserve our animals and wilderness.”

American nurse and travel blogger, Emily Scott, signed up as soon as she heard about the expedition.

“I am looking forward to meeting inspiring people working in wildlife conservation,” the 33-year old explains. “Human-wildlife conflict is an extremely complicated issue – finding ways to protect threatened species while also respecting local communities is a real challenge. But based on the ingenuity and commitment I’ve seen throughout Africa, I’m very excited to learn about how locals are tackling these issues and how we can support their efforts.”

Locally, three women from Geyser’s home province, KwaZulu-Natal, are counting down the days to their eco-adventure.

East Coast Radio personality, Erin Dickson, will spend two weeks on the road with the team.

“I hope that we can make a real impact on how people view our wildlife and draw attention to the impact of human-wildlife conflict and poaching on our environment,” says the 26- year old. “It’s so important that we get the message out there. I hope to make a positive impact on the lives of everyone we meet along the way and make some great memories while making a difference.”

Midlands resident, Lungile Dimba, an Education Administrator at WESSA (Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa) will spend 14 days on expedition alongside Geyser.

The 24-year old believes the Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch mission is bigger than any of the crew members: “Morally, everything on Earth deserves love and deserves to be taken care of. This includes all the animals and the environment. There are few people who care about nature and I am so grateful for the opportunity to be part of the few who educate the importance of valuing our environment. I believe environmental work is the cleanest career path on Earth.”

Environment education administrator, Lungile Dimba — KZN Midlands environment education administrator, Lungile Dimba, says it’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to join the Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition © Blue Sky Society Trust

Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela, who works part-time at Geyser’s Blue Sky Society Trust, will spend 15 days on the journey.

The 29-year old, who is from Umzimkhulu, says she’s looking forward to meeting amazing women from around the world who share the same passion that she does.

“I feel honoured to be given such an amazing opportunity,” Biyela says. “Carla’s work really inspires me to play my part and to make a difference not only here in South Africa but elsewhere on the continent too. I’m looking forward to learning and growing as an individual, teaching children how to protect our environment, and I look forward to them teaching me something too.”

Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela, from Durban, says she’s looking forward to meeting amazing women from around the world who share the same passion for the environment that she does © Blue Sky Society Trust

Cape Town documentary-maker, Sam Suter from Black Bean Productions and Alize Jireh a camera lady from USA round off the 12-member crew.

While Geyser is putting the finishing touches to expedition she says it’s not too late for corporates or benevolent individuals to get involved:

“Here in Africa, we are losing on average two game rangers a week, three rhinos a day, and one elephant every 15 minutes. That’s a pretty sobering thought. Our conservationists and brave anti-poaching units put their lives on the line and grapple this issue on a daily basis as they seek to educate the youth about conservation and in the process empower communities with skills needed to reduce human-wildlife conflict. We can’t simply sit back and do nothing. We owe it to future generations to do as much as we possibly can to protect our precious planet. If we each do a little, we can accomplish a great deal. Every little bit counts. Every cent matters.”

The expedition will see crew members engage with local communities especially children on the human-wildlife issue and distribute 30 000 educational booklets, connect with anti-poaching groups, visit conservation groups and schools, and meet with incredible women, “she-roes” who are doing remarkable things at a grassroots level to assist in conservation efforts.

Funds raised during the expedition will benefit four causes: Elephants Alive (South Africa), Rare and Endangered Species Trust (Namibia), Eco-Exist Project (Botswana) and the Soft Foot Alliance Trust (Zimbabwe).

“We encourage fellow South Africans to be part of our journey on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter,” says Geyser. “Your messages of encouragement are truly appreciated. We don’t have a backup team so it’s nice to know that there is some positive support coming from home.”

The Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch team leaves from the Getaway Show, Ticketpro Dome, Johannesburg on 16 September 2018. The expedition returns to South Africa on 28th October 2018.

Watch highlights of the 2016 Journeys with Purpose: Elephant Ignite expedition:

Video: 90 African buffalo welcomed into community conservancy in Zambia

African buffalo being released into conservancy in Zambia — “The buffalo are back! The buffalo are back! I never thought that I would see this happen in my lifetime!” exclaimed Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta © Peace Parks Foundation

Media release from Peace Parks Foundation

On 23 August 2018, the first 90 of 200 African buffalo were presented to the communities of Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Deputy Chief Joyce Sekute to further develop the Simalaha Community Conservancy, which forms a vital Zambian component of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, or KAZA as it is known.

KAZA is the biggest terrestrial cross-border conservation system in the world – connecting 37 protected areas across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The aim is to preserve large ecosystems across borders and re-establish corridors that allow the free movement of wildlife along ancient migratory routes.

Dr Nyambe Nyambe, Executive Director of the KAZA Secretariat, stated: “Our vision is to establish KAZA as a world-class transfrontier conservation and tourism destination. Within this, socio-economic development is critical. This can only be done by increasing sustainable livelihood and development opportunities for the local communities, such as those in Simalaha, who often bear the ‘cost’ of living with wildlife.”

The Simalaha Community Conservancy comprises 180,000 ha of communal land and lies within one of six key wildlife dispersal areas in KAZA, namely the Chobe Zambezi dispersal area that reaches from Chobe National Park in Botswana to Kafue National Park in Zambia. The Conservancy was established in 2012 to ensure viable natural resource management and support wildlife conservation; to address basic human rights of the Sesheke and Sekhute people, and develop alternative models for income generation for these two communities.

Income from wildlife management was identified as a critical component of the Conservancy and in 2013 a wildlife sanctuary measuring 24,000 ha was established as part of Simalaha. Through the active reintroduction of wildlife that used to occur in the area, and with the addition of the buffalo, the sanctuary now boasts eight different species totalling more than 1,600 animals.

African buffalo being captured for relocation into Zambia — Experts game capture teams were used to safely capture and transport the buffalo from Namibia to Zambia © Peace Parks Foundation

The buffalo were purchased from the Waterberg Plateau Park in Namibia, which had exceeded its carrying capacity for the species. In July, 120 buffalo were captured and spent 30-days in a quarantine facility in Namibia where they were tested and monitored for any signs of foot-and-mouth disease. Ninety of the now certified disease-free animals were released into a 2,500-ha fenced section within Simalaha’s wildlife sanctuary, with the remaining 30 to be brought in next week. An additional 80 will be captured and transported to Simalaha in September, bringing the total to 200 buffalo. Providing disease-free buffalo to Simalaha was crucial, as this member of Africa’s popular Big 5 will not only boost the tourism offering, but will also generate income through the sale of the offspring of the buffalo to other areas in Zambia.

Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta highlighted the fact that the totem animal for his Chiefdom was the buffalo. In years gone by, his chiefdom was responsible for defending their territory from invasion from neighbouring communities and through their efforts were given the totem animal of the buffalo, renowned for its fierceness and impressive defensive skills.

“The buffalo are back! The buffalo are back! I never thought that I would see this happen in my lifetime!” exclaimed the Chief.

The acquisition of the buffalo was made possible by Peace Parks Foundation through the support of its generous donors. The Foundation has been providing the Sesheke and Sekute chiefdoms with technical and financial support since the inception of the Conservancy.

Speaking at the ceremonial release of the buffalo, Peace Parks Foundation CEO, Werner Myburgh said: “These buffalo represent intrinsic economic value and improved livelihoods for people living in the Conservancy and demonstrate our continued commitment to the Simalaha initiative. Simalaha serves as a model of success for community-based conservation engagement and we are continuously inspired by the community’s devotion to protecting the region’s natural and cultural heritage.”

The people of Simalaha rejoiced through dance and song. — The people of Simalaha rejoiced through dance and song © Peace Parks Foundation

Simalaha seeks not only to conserve wildlife but also to improve the social, economic and environmental circumstances of the communities that host the Conservancy. In this regard, important milestones have been achieved over the past five years which include the training of 22 community wildlife scouts, known as Village Scouts, to protect the animals in the wildlife sanctuary; provision of solar lighting to key communal facilities; and the construction of houses for teachers at a local school. In addition, more than 1 200 farmers have been provided with seeds and trained in Conservation Agriculture methods to improve their yield with less impact on the environment, with many now producing surplus crops to sell. In partnership with Grounded, a process has started to create access to markets for the excess produce.

“We want to thank our partners, the Department of National Parks and Wildlife of Zambia and the Namibian Ministry of Environment and Tourism as well as the kind and continued support of our donors, in particular the MAVA Foundation for Nature, Pamela and Neville Isdell, the COmON Foundation, Coffr Foundation, the Swedish and Dutch Postcode Lotteries and KfW for helping to make Simalaha the success it is today”, concluded Mr Myburgh.

WATCH: The first 90 buffalo were released to welcoming cheers from the community

Video: Lions return to Malawi’s Liwonde National Park

Lions in the boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

Press release from African Parks

Nine lions made history this past week when they were translocated to Liwonde National Park in Malawi, returning the species to the park for the first time in 20 years.

On the 22nd of August 2018, conservation non-profit African Parks, in partnership with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), and with support from the Dutch Government, the Lion Recovery Fund and the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, announced the completion of a series of lion translocations from South Africa to Malawi. Wild lions have been reintroduced to Liwonde National Park two decades after a breeding population was present. Seven lions from South Africa joined two males brought from Majete Wildlife Reserve in March to re-establish the species in the park.

Their arrival also follows the recent reintroduction of cheetah to Liwonde in May 2017, as part of a wider initiative to restore predators to the region. This translocation also included introducing an additional five lions into Majete from South Africa to enhance genetic diversity of the founder population in the reserve, where the predators were also reintroduced by African Parks in 2012, years after being poached out.

These latest introductions highlight the ongoing restoration of Malawi’s natural heritage by the Malawian Government and African Parks for the long-term benefit of the people of Malawi.

Female lion in boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

“We are immensely proud of the restoration of our country’s parks and are committed to ensuring the ongoing protection of these extraordinary national assets” said the Director of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife, Brighton Kumchedwa. “The reintroduction of lions and other emblematic species form a core part of this vision, enabling the rejuvenation of wildlife populations, enhancing tourism and socio-economic development, and contributing to the well-being of those living around the parks”.

Lion in crate moved to boma in Liwonde © Frank Weitzer

In Liwonde, years of human-wildlife conflict and poaching eradicated resident predator populations, but, before bringing predators back, African Parks overhauled law enforcement to secure the park, constructed a robust perimeter fence, removed thousands of snare traps, established rigorous ranger patrols, and worked with local communities to prevent poaching and human-wildlife conflict.

With infrastructure and security in place allowing a prey base to recover, African Parks began the process of reintroducing wildlife.

Lion loaded on to truck for relocation — Lion loaded on to truck © Sean Viljoen

The latest translocation marks the return of an iconic predator to Liwonde but also represents a new chapter for Majete Wildlife Reserve.

In addition to the seven lions sent to Liwonde from South Africa, five lions were introduced into Majete, bringing the reserve’s population up to 17 while ensuring greater genetic diversity. The new arrivals, fitted with tracking collars to facilitate daily monitoring, were released on Wednesday August 15th into the wider park from enclosed bomas which supported their adjustment and social bonding.

Lion released in to boma in Liwonde © Sean Viljoen

A century ago, Africa contained more than 200,000 wild lions but in recent decades, habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict and diminished prey have caused Africa’s lion population to plummet to just fewer than 20,000, eradicating them from up to 90% of their historical range. Lions are now extinct in 26 African countries, but Malawi has become a bright spot among efforts to conserve the species.

Male lion in boma in Liwonde © Sean Viljoen

“Alongside Malawi’s Government and people, African Parks has shown what the pinnacle of lion recovery looks like,” said Dr Jeffrey Parrish, Vice-President of the Wildlife Conservation Network, founder of the Lion Recovery Fund. “Rewilding Malawi’s parks and restoring this flagship predator to its past domain serves as a beacon of hope that we can indeed recover lions and their landscapes across Africa, with and for communities and economies.”

Predators serve an important ecological function. “Bringing back lions restores a key species that is critical to the healthy functioning of the natural system” explains Patricio Ndadzela, African Parks’ Deputy Director of Conservation, “Symbolic of the Malawian Government’s commitment to revitalising its parks and wildlife, the translocation also contributes to the establishment of a significant national predator population and to the development of sustainable tourism economies to promote local livelihoods and socio-economic growth”.

“Parks are the cornerstones of conservation and rewilding parks with their top predators makes a park complete,” said Justin Winters, Executive Director of the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation. “We are honoured to support the bold actions of African Parks through the Lion Recovery Fund.”