Page 12 – Africa Geographic

THIS WEEK

Miss me? Well then, go on safari with Africa Geographic! Kidepo Valley, Uganda.

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And the winner is …

It’s early prime safari season and we have clients all over Africa enjoying this incredible place. Safari njema, folks!

Exciting news is that our app now empowers you to play a bigger role in planning your own safari. You can now select lodges from the ‘Travel with us’ tab by place (country, reserve name) and add them to your ‘wishlist‘. Our team are on stand by to mould your wishlist into a life-changing safari – when you are ready. You can also toggle between map view and list view, select non-malaria options and see prices in the currency of your choice.

We are now loading ready-made safari packages to the mix – which you can also add to your wishlist. Again you can filter by place – and also by your preferred experience. Expect more packages in the coming weeks as we populate that app feature.

Another great improvement to the app is that you can filter our stories and forum posts by topic – simply tap/click the red topic labels and voila!

Exciting times 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

?? We have a winner! ??
Sound the trumpets, beat the drums – see the conquering heroes come! This week, we reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images from Photographer of the Year 2022. We’ve celebrated epic Africa through impeccable images from some of the world’s most talented photographers.

Thank you to every photographer who courageously shared your valuable art with us, so that we may all experience Africa as you have. Your skill and creativity have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Evolution is one of those things that happens so slowly that we can’t really see the changes, right? Well, not entirely, as it turns out. Did you know that in certain animals, adaptive evolution may be occurring up to four times faster than previously believed?

Scientists looked at 19 different wild populations of birds and mammals studied over several decades to figure this out. The data utilised represent around 2.6 million hours of fieldwork and a quarter of a million study subjects! They then applied some somewhat complicated genetic models and statistics to quantify the rate of evolution.

As the lead author explains, we are witnessing Darwinian evolution “acting observably in our lifetimes“.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-winners/
AND THE WINNER IS
We have a winner! See the winning image, runners-up and highly commended entries from Photographer of the Year 2022

Claim safari savings, like Roger

App subscriber Roger Whittle says:
“Earlier this year, I went on an epic 17-day Kenya safari with AG. We searched for and found super tuskers and endangered hirola in Tsavo and Amboseli. In Mara we had great leopard, lion, serval and cheetah sightings. I stayed at Satao Camp (Tsavo East), Satao Elerai Camp (Amboseli) & Sentinel Mara Camp (Maasai Mara) and, booking with AG, I received a great rate. So when it came down to it, I saved US$ 1,485 on my trip. Plus, I got some iconic shots of elephants against the backdrop of Kilimanjaro to boot.”

Want to claim safari savings? Download the AG app

WATCH: One minute and 15 seconds of Botswana’s finest landscapes, waterways and wildlife, to inspire your next safari. Get the AG app to start planning your upcoming safaris now (01:15). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Winners

Announcing… ?? the winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 ??! We’ve waited on this moment with bated breath, and the results do not disappoint. The winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana, where they’ll take more wonderful snaps of our wildlife, landscapes and people.

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

A note from our editor

What a feat – we have reached the summit of Photographer of the Year 2022 – after traversing 7,389 glorious entries, which rendered 344 images selected in our weekly galleries. We’ve narrowed these wondrous images down to 14 highly commended, two runners-up, and one ultimate winner.

Over the past few months, we’ve witnessed authentic Africa come to life. We’ve been granted rare otherworldly glimpses into the ocean’s depths and onto the peaks of the continent’s tallest mountains, into rare species, ethereal treescapes, and some uncanny creatures in compromising positions. We’ve witnessed wondrous wildlife caught in junctures between survival and demise and in moments of calm and affection. We’ve been transported by visceral images of intimate human rites and rituals, and our understanding of the natural world has been tested and enlightened, igniting introspection and inspiration. From victorious wins to desperate losses, from new life to untimely death, we’ve realised that the great continent will never cease to surprise us. All of our entrants found themselves in precisely the right place at the right time, and through their skill and creativity, they have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.

I gush over these enlightening experiences as it bears repeating that the selection process was tough. But our chosen winners are right where they belong. They have evoked emotion, told explicit tales and captured true Africa with artistic and considerate skill. Thank you to everyone who fearlessly laid the wares of your efforts and skill bare so that we may experience Africa as you have.

Lastly, we offer thanks and gratitude to our sponsors, Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection, whose epic prizes are the most fitting reward for the endeavours of these excellent photographers.

WINNER – PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2022

Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Judges’ comment:

There is something about this dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras that transcends the many predation photos that we receive for consideration. The desperate battle for survival is etched on their faces, and a final goodbye between mother and child emphasises the raw emotional energy of the moment. This is the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“That morning, we decided to follow four cheetahs on the hunt. We followed them for hours. We passed herds of topis, gazelles, and zebras. We knew something was going to happen. When, five hours later, our Maasai guide whispered, ‘they are going for the zebras,’ I was convinced they would attack the topis or gazelles dotted across the valley. Seconds later, the cheetahs burst into a small group of zebras. One cheetah ran towards us, clinging onto a foal. In those seconds, I took this picture of the mother zebra launching a last attempt to push her foal away from the attacking cheetah. She failed. I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life.”

About photographer Alex Brackx

Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.

Instagram: @alex_brackx_nature

RUNNERS-UP

(in no specific order)

Sandy anemones (*Aulactinia reynaudi*), found in shallow coastal waters around southern Africa, are dependent on tidal and wave action to bring oxygen and nutrients. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones close up. But when their pools are full of water, a bright festival of colour ensues. False Bay, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Judges’ comment:

The explosion of colour against the restless energy of the waves, with backlighting courtesy of the sun, combine with the photographer’s patience and technical skills to create an exceptional capture. The ocean’s creatures are largely hidden from us, so otherworldly. This image helps us cross the divide; hopefully, enough of us will listen when we are told that our future depends on healthy oceans.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Sandy anemones are native to the very shallow waters around the coasts of southern Africa. Those living in rock pools are greatly dependent on tidal and wave action for their survival. These actions bring nutrient and oxygen-rich water to these mostly stationary creatures. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones will close up, and the landscape will become rather barren-looking. But when these pools are full of water, a kaleidoscope of colours can be seen. It’s as if they celebrate life as they are so vividly reminded about the fragile line between feasting and starving with each tidal change.”

About photographer Geo Cloete

Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for Mission Blue, an organisation that inspires action to explore and protect the ocean.

Instagram: @geo_cloete
Facebook: @GeoCloete

Floating water. A splendid sunbird demonstrates a preference for water from a leaking pipe mere metres from the Saloum River. Sokone, Senegal. © Cecile Terrasse

Judges’ comment:

The mystical impression that this sunbird is carrying a drop of precious liquid to some sacred place makes this a unique capture. Of course, split-second timing was required, and the photographer spent ten days working the scene.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I am passionate about bird photos, and during my trip to Senegal, I sprained an ankle. I could not walk for days. But I noticed that sunbirds were regularly coming to drink water at a pipe that had a leak. It seemed as if these birds preferred to drink this ‘softer’ water, as the water of the Sine Saloum River is very salty. For ten days in a row, I photographed these birds at that spot. Finally, I could capture the perfect moment, as this sunbird took this water droplet into its mouth.”

About photographer Cecile Terrasse

Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.

Instagram: @cecileterrasse_wildlife

HIGHLY-COMMENDED

(in no specific order)

Fade to fynbos. A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an Erica shrub. Garden Route Botanical Gardens, George, South Africa. © Brendon White

Judges’ comment:

The explosion of colours immediately tags this capture worthy of a second look. What a wonderful celebration of a cryptic creature accessible to anybody in the right area with loads of patience. Note the flat (non-arched) posture and lack of dark colouration on the chameleon – it’s relaxed.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an erica shrub. These chameleons are surprisingly common in the Garden Route Botanical Gardens, although until you get your ‘eye in’, they can be quite tricky to spot.”

About photographer Brendon White

Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.

Instagram: @brendon_white_

A Tsonga fisherman spears a fish caught by the tide in a fish kraal trap. Kosi Bay, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer

Judges’ comment:

Both the fish and the fisherman are caught in a trap. Decreasing naturally functioning habitat means fewer fish and fewer sustainable protein sources and jobs. This is another of Africa’s stories – that vital bond between biodiversity and local people.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Early morning at low tide, this Tsonga man speared a fish in his family’s fish kraal, which consists of a guide fence that curves towards a fish trap, allowing fish easy entry, but no escape. The Tsonga tribal authority granted his family this specific site for building the kraal. For centuries, the Tsonga people have fished the Kosi Bay lake system, using a skill passed down from generation to generation. Historically, these fish kraals provided a significant food source. In the 1990s, the numbers of these kraals trebled, leading to overfishing in the area. Today, fishermen in the area struggle to provide for their families because of the dwindling fish population.”

About photographer Hesté de Beer

Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.

White-fronted bee-eaters take flight. The Aloe Farm, Hartbeespoort, North West, South Africa. © Sean Davis

Judges’ comment:

This bee-eater stack had us all searching for signs of a composite image! What a celebration of these beautiful birds, movement and grace. Stunning!

Photographer and photo details – read more

“White-fronted bee-eaters are such busy birds and constantly look for insects to feed on. I arrived at the Aloe Farm’s nesting wall to find the bee-eaters flying in and out of their nests and settling on perches along the wall. There were ten bee-eaters perched next to each other: some were basking in the sun, others snacking on insects, and many were preening themselves. Suddenly, something startled them, and they took flight – allowing me to capture this image.”

About photographer Sean Davis

Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.

Instagram: @sdphotography_za
Website: sdphotography.co.za

Shades of night descending. A black leopard skulks off with a freshly caught dik-dik. The dark colour of this leopard’s fur is caused by melanism, earning it the name ‘black panther’ – a name given to any black-coated big cat within the Panthera genus. Laikipia, Kenya. © Nick Kleer

Judges’ comment:

The stuff of legends. This breathtaking image is for the countless numbers of wildlife enthusiasts that have tried in vain to see a black leopard, let alone photograph one, and with a kill! No further words are required.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“On the night I captured this shot of a young female leopard, I was hosting a safari with guests to spot her. This was the last of our six nights, and we had been hoping for a good view of her. She delivered spectacularly. We observed her for almost an hour, and she was clearly on the hunt. It is tough to follow a black leopard at night as they camouflage very well. We alternated spotlit scans of the area with periods of darkness in the hopes she would be successful on the hunt. And then we heard it: the unmistakable cry of an animal that had been caught. Silence followed. We scanned again. She appeared out of the shadows, carrying a dik-dik kicking helplessly. The leopard proceeded to carry the then lifeless animal toward a nearby riverbank through dense scrub. We moved to an opening where I captured her dragging the carcass over the rocks. Her eyes and the dik-dik lit up for the briefest moment against the pitch-black background before she disappeared and melted into the darkness. This encounter was beyond privileged, and I count myself extremely lucky to have been able to capture this moment.”

About photographer Nick Kleer

Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.

Instagram: @nickkleer

An Ethiopian herder watches over his cattle as they rest. Ethiopia. © Kevin Dooley

Judges’ comment:

Excellent composition and creative post-production make for a striking portrait. The dramatic sky seems to radiate from this herder – to give him wings – and his intense stare adds to the energy of this capture.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“We left camp around 4.30am. Even in the excited anticipation of photographing the remote tribes of Ethiopia, I dozed on and off as we rocked back and forth along the long and dusty road. Our goal was to reach the tribal village before sunrise. We wanted to capture authentic images of the people going about their morning activities. I love photographing people – I have been a professional portrait photographer all my adult life. When we arrived, the men were busy with their cattle, and I saw this gentleman standing on a small sand mound, watching over his cattle. The sunrise was full of dramatic clouds and beautiful textures. The light was flat enough to maintain detail in the man and the sky. I knelt and placed the clouds in perfect alignment. The man glanced over his cows, and I made the exposure. This will always be one of my favourite photographic moments.”

About photographer Kevin Dooley

Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.

Instagram: @kevindooley_idubephotosafaris

André Bauma and his ward, Ndakasi – rescued as an infant when the rest of her family was murdered. Bauma and Ndakasi remained close throughout her life until she died in his arms in 2021. Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of the Congo. © Marcus Westberg

Judges’ comment:

This photo tells the story of one of Africa’s true conservationists – a man who has dedicated his life to saving mountain gorillas – one gorilla at a time. Unlike many in the greater wildlife industries space, Andre Bauma has realised that for some species, we are down to every individual being vital for population stability.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Andre Bauma rescued the then two-month-old Ndakasi in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, in 2007. Poachers had killed her parents, and she was still clinging to her mother’s dead body when she was found. Carrying her to safety inside his shirt to keep her warm, Andre came to take on the role of both mother and father, sharing Ndakasi’s bed, feeding her, playing with her, and comforting her at her new home, the Senkwekwe Mountain Gorilla Sanctuary. Their bond grew stronger, with Andre often speaking of Ndakasi and the other orphaned gorillas as his children. In September 2021, despite access to specialist veterinarians, Ndakasi succumbed to illness and died in Andre’s arms, 14 years after he found her.”

About photographer Marcus Westberg

Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.

Instagram: @marcuswestbergphotography

Allegory of life and death. Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Hendri Venter

Judges’ comment:

This is not an image to gladden the heart. On the contrary, our judges agonised over this depiction of “cruelty”. Is this wanton violence; should we suppress it because of the poor baby monkey’s lot? Or should we stay the course we chose 31 years ago to also reflect harsh reality? And that, dear reader, is why we chose this image – because the emotional rollercoaster it sparks in our minds leads to a better understanding of how nature works.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“While following a pride of lions in Zimanga Private Game Reserve early one morning, I noticed something attracted the young male lion’s attention, and I followed his gaze. He had noticed that a young vervet monkey had wandered away from the troop, foraging on the ground in dense vegetation. The vervets were oblivious to the predator, and he made his move. The noise of his hastened approach alerted the mother, and she turned to rescue her baby. Lion and mother arrived together, and opportunistically the lion turned his attention to the desperate mother. In trying to save her baby, she paid the ultimate price for her maternal instinct.”

About photographer Hendri Venter

Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.

Instagram: @hendriventer

Children entertain themselves beneath towering Grandidier’s baobabs – the tree giants of Madagascar, which grow up to 25 metres tall. Western Madagascar. © Aimin Chen

Judges’ comment:

The juxtaposition of these massive Grandidier’s baobabs and the playing children makes for a telling story. The kids belong to parents that sell their wares to tourists that come to wonder at the baobabs. Without tourism money, those trees will likely go the way of much of Madagascar’s natural vegetation, and the rural villagers would have fewer livelihood options. This is one of Africa’s most compelling stories – the bond between biodiversity, local people and tourists.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The photo was taken in August 2018. The name ‘baobab’ is derived from an Arabic term meaning ‘seed-bearing fruit’. As it takes seven years for a small tree to grow only 50cm high, some of the oldest baobabs with thick trunks are regarded as holy trees. Many people come to the trees to pray for children, money, good fortune and illness. In Madagascar, locals regard the baobab tree as sacred, and it is known as the ‘tree of life’.”

About photographer Aimin Chen

Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.

After standing statue-like for the longest moment, a shoebill makes the attack and captures a marbled lungfish. A satisfying moment for the photographer: “When the shoebill catches a fish in front of you, you will never forget that action.” Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

Judges’ comment:

You can wait for hours while the dinosaur of birds patiently monitors a lungfish breathing hole on a floating raft of papyrus reeds. And then, nothing. Or, your patience might be rewarded with a brief glimpse of a kill – and a blurry photographic memento. Rarely do you capture the perfect shot of predator and prey. That makes this an exceptional capture worth celebrating.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The prehistoric-looking shoebill is an iconic bird in Uganda. My dream of photographing this bird in its natural environment led me to Entebbe. I travelled with the guide and boatman on a wooden dinghy to Mabamba Swamp, where we found one bird standing in the swamp vegetation. Our boatman was able to manoeuvre the dinghy into the ideal spot to capture the photo. But the hard work was yet to begin: we were waiting for the bird to hunt. This can take hours, as shoebills – too heavy to chase their prey – stand still for long periods, waiting for unsuspecting creatures to swim close by. But after a long wait, the bird suddenly made an attack, catching a large lungfish – grabbing a beak full of swampy vegetation in the process. It is magical to share this moment with others. What an extraordinary bird!”

About photographer Guenther Kieberger

Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.

The herd brings the drama as it arrives at a spring to drink. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

Judges’ comment:

If you have experienced the oppressive heat and enveloping, suffocating dust at the peak of the African dry season, you will live this capture with every cell in your body. The desperate search for water is written on every face as this pathfinder leads her herd to the natural spring.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“For the past ten years, I have spent a few months a year in northern Zimbabwe, where, in untouched wilderness, one can still watch nature’s dramas unfold. In 2021, at the end of the dry season, I spent a couple of weeks at Chitake Springs in the interior of Mana Pools National Park. With dwindling food sources, soaring temperatures up to 45°C, and the daily need to drink, the buffalo were drawn to whatever water remained. I was on foot when I captured this image as the herd of buffalo arrived at the spring. Given the dynamics and unpredictability of the encounters, there is always a lot to consider when in these situations!”

About photographer Jens Cullman

Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.

Instagram: @jens_cullmann
Website: jenscullmann.de

A chimpanzee peers up at a commotion of cascading fruit, urine and branches falling from overhead. Just like the photographer, he seems concerned he may be the target. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Johan Siggesson

Judges’ comment:

A brilliant capture of the moment when a mere glance becomes a ponder, a calculation even. Our genetic similarities aside, this image forces us to recognise another great ape as sentient and thoughtful.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“After two unforgettable gorilla treks in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the next step on the expedition was visiting Kibale National Park to see the chimpanzees. We found a large family group and stayed with them for some time. We were able to observe the many different personalities in the group. Some were shy and skittish, whilst others were bold. We came across this individual who was very comfortable in our presence. I felt privileged to be accepted in his presence. Some of the other family members in the group were still in the trees above, and, just like me, this chimp was regularly looking up, seemingly worried that he would be the target of fruit, urine and branches falling from the trees above.”

About photographer Johan Siggesson

Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.

Instagram: @johan_siggesson_photo
Facebook: @johansiggessonphotography
Website: www.johansiggesson.com

Gently symmetry. An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, elegant aquiline muzzles brushing the mineral-rich red earth of the salt lick. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. © Julian Asher

Judges’ comment:

What goes where, and who owns what? A bit of fun as we are forced to concentrate for longer than the usual glance at our busy mobile phone feeds.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I’ve always been struck by the sense of calm projected by giraffes, and there was something almost meditative about the concentration of these two, and the demure sweep of their lashes and slow grace of their long velvet noses as they nuzzled the soil – as if they were savouring the moment. I chose my angle and held my breath as their heads moved ever closer, and they continued to brush against the earth – until they finally attained a fleeting moment of symmetry.”

About photographer Julian Asher

Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.

Instagram: @pictusafrica
Website: http://www.timelessafrica.com/

A leopard sneaks in under the fence line of Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. Hoedspruit, South Africa. © Owen Gröbler

Judges’ comment:

This leopard sliding under the electric fence of a residential wildlife estate on the outskirts of a bushveld town is a sensational illustration of peri-urban leopard survival and cunning. It’s also a sad depiction of a wild creature “navigating between two prison cells”, as one Facebook observer commented.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The leopardess captured in this image has been the primary subject of a peri-urban leopard identification project that I started over three years ago. Her territory includes a disturbed landscape with a large human presence. Despite this, she has found a way to survive while evading our detection almost entirely and has successfully raised at least three litters of cubs to independence. I was determined to capture an image which showcased her remarkable versatility, so I set out to look for her, day after day, night after night. After almost two years of failed attempts, fortuitous circumstances finally intervened. On a late afternoon game drive, my wife and I spotted the leopardess and one of her cubs outside the perimeter fence line. I reversed the vehicle to a respectful distance and cut the engine. Though these leopards are hypersensitive to human presence, I was certain they had a kill on the wildlife estate, so they would need to enter underneath the electric fence. I waited until the mother leopard emerged from the roadside thickets and effortlessly slid underneath the electric fence. I witnessed the leopard’s mellifluous motion through my camera’s viewfinder as the firing shutter captured her attention. Then the cub swiftly followed her mother. Now, this resilient peri-urban leopard’s story is known by many.”

About photographer Owen Gröbler

Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.

Instagram: @a_bush_Owen

Website: www.searchingforspots.com

After a long hot December day near Punda Maria Rest Camp, an elephant calf rests at its mother’s feet. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Judges’ comment:

Mom’s massive foot gently cradling her tiny baby seems to curve around that delicate ear. A touching, tender moment that so defines elephants and makes us want to spend time with them.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“This photo was taken during a visit to Kruger National Park in December 2021. It was a scorching day near Punda Maria when we spotted a large herd of elephants making their way down to the river to quench their thirst and cool off in the water. One female elephant was not interested in joining the fun and was just standing still. At first, I thought she was injured or sick, but as we drove closer, I noticed her tiny calf resting peacefully at her feet in the shade that she provided. An epitome of a mother’s love and protection of her little one.”

About photographer Ilna Booyens

Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.

Instagram: @booyensilna

THIS WEEK

Pemba Island, Tanzania. Find the best prices for this and other inspirational camps & lodges in our app.

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Photo finalists ? + rhino-horn trade + gorilla trekking

Announcing the finalists for Photographer of the Year! After much deliberation over the past few weeks, we’ve narrowed down 7,389 submissions to 44 truly exceptional images. Kick-start your weekend with an endorphin rush as you indulge in these marvellous images.

The scourge of rhino poaching has policymakers seeking creative solutions. In 2021, discussions on rhino-horn trade were floated by Barbara Creecy’s High-Level Panel – sparking highly polarised debate. Would the farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? In our third story below, we examine the research into the preferences of the actual consumers of rhino horn – which has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that rhinos make squealing noises like cetaceans (dolphins and whales)? Rhinos of all ages use this whine to communicate, though it is especially adorable when the youngsters do it. If you don’t believe me, follow the link to enjoy an enchanting pair of rhino calves squealing for their lunch.

It’s cute, right?

Over 100 rhinos have been massacred in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa in just five months. We could debate the merits of trade (see our story below) in circles for eternity and would likely never reach a consensus, but we are running out of time to act. South Africa’s rhinos are vanishing in front of our eyes. Though if Minister Creecy is to be believed, it is simply increased anti-poaching measures in Kruger (and not dwindling rhino numbers) that has sent poachers scurrying to Kwa-Zulu Natal …

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-1/
FINALISTS GALLERY 1
The final round of Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Check out our 1st gallery of finalists

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-2/
FINALISTS GALLERY 2
The top images for Photographer of the Year have been chosen. Check out the 2nd gallery of finalists

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/farmed-vs-wild-rhino-horn-what-the-research-tells-us/
RHINO HORN
Does farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? Research into consumer preferences sheds light on the rhino-horn trade. Club members only

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now? Our 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.

MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is the ultimate bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …

WATCH: Five minutes of calm – explore South Africa’s forest beneath the waves. Many algal forests are in decline due to warming oceans. But along South Africa’s coastline, the 1,200km-long Great African Sea Forest still thrives (05:02). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 1

Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

This is Gallery 1 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year top finalists, click below:
Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 2

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Cleansing with smoke and heat. A Samburu mother invites a photographer in to witness the daily rite of disinfecting a milk container with smoke. Waso, Kenya. © Bob Chiu

Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 2

This is Gallery 2 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year top finalists, click below:
Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 1

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

An anti-poaching ranger touches a rhino skull in Namibia. The rhino had been shot, but escaped its pursuers and died with horns intact. The horns were removed by Namibian authorities when the body was found, but the remains of the rhino were left where they lay. Namibia. © Marcus Westberg

After a long hot December day near Punda Maria Rest Camp, an elephant calf takes a rest at its mother’s feet. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Farmed vs wild rhino horn – what the research tells us

As conservationists and rangers work around the clock to protect Africa’s rhinos, scientists on the other side of the globe are attempting to unravel different aspects of the trade: including the perspectives and market preferences from actual consumers of rhino horn. Do these consumers prefer the horn of a wild rhino over that of a “farmed” or captive rhino? The answer to this question has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.

Rhino populations in Africa continue their dizzying decline due to poaching. The Kruger National Park – a protected area in South Africa where populations were once thriving – for example, has experienced a 75% decline in population numbers in the past 10 years. Conservation circles are locked in a fierce debate on whether legalising the horn trade would save these iconic animals or be the instrument of their final destruction. (A complete summary of the nuances of this debate can be found here: Rhino horn trade – yes or no.) The success or failure of a controlled trade strategy will depend on several factors, including how the market develops if legal restrictions are removed. This is a complex question involving everything from economics to sociology, and it is almost impossible to predict accurately.

The history of wildlife trading has shown that wildlife farming can benefit species conservation under certain specific conditions. In particular, the end consumer would need to consider the farmed/sustainably harvested products to be equal in quality and status to wild products and to be a suitable substitute¹ ². If consumers who buy rhino products prefer horns from wild rhinos, this would constitute a threat to the remaining population of wild rhinos.

What does the research say about the rhino horn debate?

The two largest rhino-horn markets are in China and Vietnam³, and much of the market research conducted in recent years has focussed on consumer surveys in these regions.

The most recent study⁴, published at the end of 2021, identified 345 rhino horn consumers in Vietnam, where the horn is used as a treatment for hangovers and fevers, and as a detoxifying agent. The researchers found that, on average, those surveyed were willing to pay more for horn from wild or semi-wild rhinos due to the belief that these have more potent medicinal properties. (A summary of their methods and conclusions can be accessed here.) Notably, wealthy respondents with a high “need” for rhino horn favoured wild rhino horn, while those with lower incomes and a lower “need” for rhino horn preferred semi-wild horns over wild horns.
A previous study⁵ by two of the authors of the above research found that 73% of survey respondents in Vietnam preferred wild horn to horn from farmed animals. One consumer stated, “I am willing to pay more for the wild ones, even double. Even though there was a legal trade rhino horn, I would only buy the wild ones [sic]”.
Another study conducted using similar methods that approached the question from a slightly different angle⁶ found that consumers preferred wild horn over semi-wild and farmed products. However, there was a definite preference for horns harvested in a sustainable, nonlethal manner: “the finding that [those surveyed] strongly prefer horn acquired from nonlethal harvesting has not been reported previously and suggests that horn sourced humanely from living rhinos would attract a premium in the market”.
A study that focussed on traditional Chinese-medicine practitioners in Hong Kong⁷ found a similar pattern. Though this research did not specifically address the distinction between wild and farmed horn, 50% of the practitioners interviewed expressed a preference for sustainably harvested horn should the trade be legalised. The remaining half suggested that they would not distinguish between sustainably harvested or lethally obtained horn.

A word of caution?

It is important to note that there are inherent limitations in market surveys conducted in a “what if” scenario. It is challenging to expand these responses to predict the ultimate market behaviour should the trade in rhino horn be legalised. This applies to arguments both for and against the legalisation of rhino horn trade and is in large part responsible for the deadlock in making the call one way or another.

Critics of the research into wild/farmed horn consumer preferences suggest that “the wild versus farmed narrative is based on assumptions that over-simplify consumer behaviour and can lead to conclusions that do not recognise the complexity of real wildlife markets”⁸. Hinsley and t’Sas-Rolfe (2020) argue it is challenging to link preferences with real-world behaviour, as other confounding factors (such as legality or availability) may also play an influential role.

Naturally, the legal trade in rhino horn is both a scientific and ideological conundrum, and subconscious biases could impact scientific methodology and conclusions. Even the terminology used could potentially influence consumers. For example, rhinos in South Africa are generally not “farmed” in the way people might think of feedlot cattle, and most private rhino owners operate a semi-intensive system. Creating a distinction between “farmed”, “wild”, and “semi-wild” was a vital step in the research process.

When preference could kill

It is clear from available science that if given a choice between horns from wild rhino and farmed rhino, many consumers show an evident preference for wild horn. This tendency to associate increased potency or effectiveness with wild-sourced products is seen in traditional medicine involving other wild species such as tigers⁹. How this will translate in terms of behaviour is more challenging to predict.

Regardless, these preferences need to be taken seriously. Supposing legal rhino horn enters the market, the wealthiest users may still be willing to pay a premium for wild rhino horn. In that case, a preference for wild horn could drive wild rhino populations to extinction.

References

L. Tensen, Under what circumstances can wildlife farming benefit species conservation? Global Ecology and Conservation, 6 (2016), pp. 286 – 298
D. Biggs, F. Courchamp, R. Martin, H.P. Possingham, Legal trade of Africa’s rhino horn, Science, 339 (2013), pp. 1038-1039
J.A.J. Eikelboom, R.J.M. Nuijten, Y.X.G. Wang, B. Schroder, I.M.A. Heitkönig, W.M. Mooij, F. van Langevelde, H.H.T. Prins, Will legal international rhino horn trade save wild rhino populations?, Global Ecology and Conservation, 23 (2020)
H.N.D. Vu, M.R. Nielsen, J.B. Jacobsen, Conserving rhinos by legal trade: Insights from a choice experiment with rhino horn consumers, Ecological Economics, 193 (2022)
H.N.D. Vu & M.R. Nielsen, Understanding utilitarian and hedonic values determining the demand for rhino horn in Vietnam, Human Dimensions of Wildlife, 23:5 (2018), 417-432
N. Hanley, O. Sheremet, M. Bozzola, D.C. MacMillan, The allure of the illegal: choice modeling of rhino horn demand in Vietnam, Conservation Letters, 11 (2018)7.
H. Cheung, L. Mazerolle, H.P. Possingham, D. Biggs, Medicinal use and legalized trade of rhinoceros horn from the perspective of traditional Chinese medicine practitioners in Hong Kong, Tropical Conservation Science, 11 (2018), 1-8
A. Hinsley, M. ‘t Sas-Rolfes, Wild assumptions? Questioning simplistic narratives about consumer preferences for wildlife products, People and Nature, 2 (2020), 972– 979
B. Gratwicke, J. Mills, A. Dutton, et al. Attitude toward consumption and conservation of tigers in China. PLOS ONE, 3 (2008)

THIS WEEK

Wish you were here? Savute, Botswana. Contact one of our safari consultants and describe your perfect holiday.

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Of mammoths & tuskers + fantastical Madagascar + horny toads

Why is transparency SO DIFFICULT for some? The info-gathering journey for my follow-up below was an interesting one. Our usual network of information brokers performed well, as usual – thanks to every one of you. And also a SHOUT OUT to Nyambe Nyambe of KAZA who was courteous and professional in fielding teamAG questions about elephant trophy hunting. BUT

Our attempts to determine THE FACTS from the trophy hunting industry about this particular Botswana tusker hunt were met with petulance, insults, smoke and mirrors. We are used to this from a minority of loud individuals within the industry – water off a duck’s back – but from representative body officers? I won’t repeat what is included in the notes below my op-ed (or stoop to their levels of personal and brandAG attacks), but I will say that the LACK OF dignity, professional courtesy and foresight exhibited by the representative body for Botswana trophy hunters will come back to haunt them. Hopefully, the ethical members from within that body will one day exorcise the rot.

I will be enjoying a 4-day mountain biking sojourn deep in the northern Kruger National Park as you read this, with other bushveld junkies. SAFARI NJEMA my friends

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

We will soon be revealing the finalists, and shortly thereafter, WINNERS of Photographer of the Year. Our team of judges is deeply immersed in a cauldron of contemplation, giving each pic in our Top 101 galleries due deliberation. Watch this space!

Will Africa’s great tuskers face the same fate as the now-extinct woolly mammoths? A few weeks ago we broke the news that two of Botswana’s largest tuskers were trophy hunted. This week, Simon delves into the great debate following this fallout, and spotlights the threat this brings to community wealth, an important wildlife corridor and tusker survival. See our first story below.

Madagascar – the fantastical land of plenty – is a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. For those seeking spiny forests, elegant sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs and desert canyons, south and central Madland is just the ticket. Read more in our second story.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Science is a serious business. The business of publishing in scientific journals even more so. This is why I find brief glimpses of humour so profoundly refreshing. Along with fun taxonomic names, tongue-in-cheek article titles are right up my alley.

Take my most recent read, entitled “Finding love in a hopeless place”. It’s about frogs. More specifically, it is about desperate frogs. Did you know that during their chaotic breeding seasons, male frogs will grab almost anything in the hope that it’s a female? When this approach goes wrong, it is called misdirected amplexus (amplexus describing the Anuran mating position). These love-struck amphibians have been known to clasp boots, carcasses and pythons.

Given that the Bufonidae were well represented in this research, I can think of at least one alternative title that would have worked just as well. Though it probably wouldn’t have made it past the reviewers…If you think you know what I was thinking (or have a better idea), why not share it in our club comments section?

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/how-much-to-kill-a-woolly-mammoth/
HUNTING TUSKERS
The trophy hunting of 2 of Botswana’s largest tuskers threatens community wealth, a wildlife corridor & tusker survival. By Simon Espley

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/south-and-central-madagascar-wondrous-wildlife/
ANCIENT ADVENTURES
South & central Madagascar is popular with tourists for spiny forests, elegant sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs & desert canyons

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

A rare find indeed – affordability in the birthplace of walking safaris. This well-priced safari is a must for those seeking true wilderness and expert walking guides. Expect excellent game viewing (did someone say LEOPARDS?) and tracking on foot, plus epic bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Unwind, detox and let 5 days in remote Africa recharge your batteries.

And then there is this – 19 days in paradise – Greater Kruger, Cape Town & the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls. From bush to beach, Pinotage to predators and the biggest curtain of falling water in the world, this epic safari showcases the best that southern Africa has to offer.

WATCH: Your feel good fix for the week! Watch two rangers rescue an exhausted honey badger, trapped in the base of a marula tree (04:01). Click here to watch

How much to kill a woolly mammoth?

The debate after we broke the story on the trophy hunting of two of Africa’s largest tuskers in Botswana has focussed on the ethical issues surrounding trophy hunting, and rightfully so. Should humans be permitted to kill animals for fun? And then there is the potential threat to big-tusker genes of selectively removing these giants from the breeding pool.

But for this post, I focus on three other issues that go to the core of trophy hunting, and hunting elephants, as a conservation tool:

1. FAIR VALUE

The trophy hunter paid at least US$80,000 for the ‘pleasure’ of killing this giant elephant*. Is this ‘fair value’ for one of a diminishing population of large-tusked elephants (tuskers)?

The questioning of fair value is essential. For example, what would the modern-day trophy hunter pay TODAY to kill a woolly mammoth – how many millions of USD? Because in 20 years, that will be a relevant comparison – these giant elephants are the woolly mammoth of today, and their slide into oblivion is surely a concern.

2. ADEQUATE COMPENSATION – RURAL COMMUNITIES

We have been advised that the Tcheku Community Trust, on whose land (NG13) this tusker was killed, was paid BWP200,000 (about US$16,285) for this elephant hunt – by a company called Old Man’s Pan Propriety Limited.

The company is owned by professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer and Derek Brink – one of Botswana’s wealthiest men. So let’s be clear about this. Two wealthy individuals generate a massive 500% return on this giant elephant – and an entire community has to survive on the scraps.

Obviously I do not speak for this community (based in an area where protein sources are likely scarce) – who may appreciate an estimated minimum 600kg of elephant meat that such a hunt could produce. However, of concern is that our request to BWPA (see below) and Kachelhoffer for evidence – photos – that the meat was given to community members was refused. Also, suggesting that the supposed meat provision is a substitute for the cash they should have earned is insulting – the ultimate slap in the face for these desperate people. Do they know what this elephant was really worth?

The community trust’s total elephant allocation for the year is five elephants – all purchased in advance by Kachelhoffer and Brink. Seeing how little the community benefited from the killing of one of Africa’s largest tuskers, I would imagine that their revenue expectations for the remainder of the year are pretty grim.

This is nothing more and nothing less than the syphoning off of rural community wealth by hardened wealthy businessmen.

Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed far more than just menial jobs and will enjoy the economic benefits of sustainable wildlife management. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry? Is this particular scenario fair to the good people of Botswana, or even sustainable – surely not!

3. MIGRATING ELEPHANTS

And what about the rural people in neighbouring countries – how do they benefit from this once-off event?

After all, this giant elephant was an international wanderer who would undoubtedly have paid his way via many photographic appearances over the years in the nearby (in roaming bull elephant terms) popular tourist areas of the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Caprivi, Victoria Falls and Hwange – to name a few.

On the topic of international elephant migration routes, we approached Nyambe Nyambe, executive director of Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), for feedback about trophy hunting elephants in elephant migration routes and the possibility of this creating ‘fear zones’ which hinder migration away from human-elephant conflict areas. One of KAZA’s aims is to enable elephant migration away from human-elephant conflict zones.

Nyambe pointed out that KAZA partner states consider trophy hunting a component of the wildlife economy. But he also said, “Partner States have imposed moratoriums on trophy hunting in particular areas of KAZA for purposes of rebuilding the populations alongside strengthening other conservation measures…”

Why then does Botswana create a new controlled trophy hunting area out of NG13 – which is slap bang in the elephant-migration corridor? On the face of it, this seems contrary to the underlying KAZA strategy to create safe migration corridors and alleviate human-elephant conflict.

Nyambe pointed out that KAZA cannot prevent partner states from going against the spirit of the partnership: “Any potential negative effects that could arise from efforts towards sustainable use (not just from hunting) will be duly investigated to mitigate any unplanned or negative impacts,” but KAZA does not take up issues with partner states, and rather relies on partner states to “engage with other or a particular partner state in the event of a concern.”

On the subject of fear zones, Nyambe suggested that my concerns are noted but probably overstated because trophy hunting does not occur across the entire wildlife dispersal area.

PARTING THOUGHTS

Botswana, and any other country, has the sovereign right to decide their own way forward when it comes to conservation issues such as these. And their focus on local people as beneficiaries of the wildlife industries is justified and necessary.

But surely Botswana can do better than this? Permitting a few privileged individuals to benefit at the expense of desperate rural communities is going to end badly – for Batswana and for their wildlife and ecosystems.

The trophy hunting industry seems incapable of self-regulation and has never been transparent about its dealings. Claims of sustainability are not backed by science and claims of significant benefits for local people are not supported by evidence. The authorities must step in and enforce better scientific rigour, transparency and accountability. They need to ensure a better distribution of wealth for Botswana’s rural people, better mitigation of human-wildlife conflict and a more sustainable offtake of genetically gifted animals that are now so popular as mantelpiece adornments.

* Notes

a) Three separate sources advised us that the minimum price for this sized elephant was US$80,000 to US$100,000

b) Our request to professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer for information about the hunt proceeds, NG13 environmental management plan, license tender process and other specifics was initially met with assurances of cooperation, but he suspended discussions shortly after that. We were subsequently sent a letter by Kachelhoffer’s fellow Botswana Wildlife Producers Association committee members. The letter provided generic notes about elephant hunting and how the elephant was located in the vast NG13 but did not provide the requested information mentioned above. This lack of transparency is, unfortunately, par for the course. In a bitter, strongly worded follow-up letter, the BWPA advised us that they would not be responding to future requests for information.

South and central Madagascar

This time we adventure to southern and central Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.

For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km² (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).

The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.

In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.

South and central Madagascar

Madagascar’s ancient geography – shaped by volcanic forces and tectonic tearing – consists of a rather thin band of coastline, the massive central plateau and several massifs scattered across the island. The eastern section is lush and green, watered by Indian Ocean trade winds and with the forested escarpment descending in a series of steep steps to the rugged coastline. Further west, the arid highlands and grasslands of central Madagascar are riven by stark desert canyons. The weather becomes even drier as the land slopes gently to the island’s southern tip, giving way to the strange and formidable plants of the Tolkienesque spiny forests.

The southern circuit of Madagascar is more popular with tourists and includes two of the island’s most famous parks: Ranomafana and Isalo National Parks. Away from the main holidaymaker routes, the south-central highlands offer a vast but intimidating adventure for intrepid and experienced explorers. However, the more circumspect traveller will find these more accessible destinations provide a great fill of Madagascar’s wondrous wildlife and sublime scenery.

South and central Madagascar — Diademed sifaka

Ranomafana National Park

Situated on the precipitous slopes of the High Plateau, the forests of one of Madagascar’s largest national parks cover an area of around 416km² (41,600 hectares). The name comes from the Malagasy term for ‘hot springs’ (‘rano’ meaning water and ‘mafana’ meaning warm), in which visitors can soak aching muscles after hiking the undulating and sometimes strenuous trails. Ranomafana and Berenty Private Reserve (see below) are absolute musts when visiting this part of Madagascar. The park is part of the Rainforests of the Atsinanana UNESCO World Heritage Site – a serial property composed of six national parks protecting relict forests along the eastern strip of Madagascar and known for their exceptional biodiversity. The other five parks are Masoala National Park, Marojejy National Park, Zahamena National Park, Andringitra National Park, and Andohahela National Park.

Ranomafana owes its existence to Dr Patricia Wright and her discovery of the golden bamboo lemur in 1986. This prompted the authorities to declare the region a national park and helped save the dwindling populations of one of the most unusual primates in the world. As a result, the critically endangered golden bamboo lemur is probably the park’s star character. Their main claim to fame is that they are the only primate specialising in a bamboo diet (chimpanzees and gorillas eat bamboo, but it does not form the basis of their diets). No one fully understands how they process the enormous quantities of cyanide present in the bamboo shoots’ soft stalks and growing tips. Experts estimate that they ingest approximately 50 times the lethal dose for a similarly sized mammal every day.

Apart from the cyanide guzzling golden bamboo lemurs, Ranomafana is home to many other lemur species, including the eastern woolly lemur, eastern grey bamboo lemur, red-bellied lemur, greater bamboo lemur, black-and-white lemur, red-fronted brown lemur, ruffed lemur, small-toothed sportive lemur, and the Milne-Edwards sifaka. The bushbaby-like mouse lemurs are undoubtedly the forest’s cutest offering – emerging at night with the eerie aye-ayes (for fortunate travellers) to take advantage of the plethora of insect life. Ayes-ayes are most easily seen near Tamatave.

Madagascar is an incredible birding destination, with at least five endemic bird families: vangas, ground-rollers, cuckoo rollers, Malagasy warblers and mesites. Though the forests (and birding opportunities) of Ranomafana are similar to those of Andasibe-Mantadia, Ranomafana offers the best chance to spot (among others) the yellow-bellied sunbird-asity, the cryptic warbler, and Madagascan snipe. Of course, this being Madagascar, the reptiles (especially chameleons) are many and varied, and the waterways and forest paths are dotted with colourful little frogs. The aptly named giraffe-necked weevils are another Madagascan endemic – a peculiar insect with an elongated neck designed for nest building and fighting off rivals.

Isalo National Park

Delving further into Madagascar’s interior, the 815km² (81,500 hectares) Isalo National Park is a world apart from the tropical rainforests of the east. Hot and dry though it may be, Isalo is one of Madagascar’s busiest parks for a reason. The views are different every day, with shifting shadows and changing colours creating a living work of art as the sun moves across the sky. Isalo boasts wooded ravines, idyllic pools like “Piscine Naturelle”, and incredible flora. The park is also very close to the main road.

Isalo is often described as Madagascar’s equivalent of the Grand Canyon, though this is probably a slight overstatement. Regardless, the scenery is not dissimilar to Arizona’s in the US, complete with dramatic canyons and colourful sandstone ridges. The sweeping panoramas can be explored across several different hikes ranging from a few hours to several days in duration. Some magnificent trails also descend into the sclerophyllous (hard leaved, drought-adapted) woodlands of the gorges to arrive at limpid pools where visitors can refresh body and soul.

Here tourists delight in the antics of the park’s ring-tailed lemurs. They’re unlikely to bust out any dance moves or speak with Sasha Baron Cohen’s inexplicable Indian accent like DreamWorks’s famous (mis)representation, but these black and white lemurs are equally sassy. From the endemic and distinctive elephant’s foot (which looks a bit like a bulbous bonsai baobab) to several native species of aloe, the plant life is unique and fascinating. Recent studies indicate that the park is home to 24 different amphibian species, 47 reptiles, and over 100 different bird species have been recorded in Isalo.

All this said, seeing birds and mammals in Isalo can be tricky. An excellent birding option is Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, where expert bird guides will delight you with incredible sightings of giant couas, cuckoo-rollers, the highly restricted Appert’s greenbul and myriad non-venomous snakes and endearing chameleons.

Clockwise from top left: Giant-striped mongoose; giraffe-necked weevil; red fody; yellow-bellied asity; long-tailed ground roller

Tsimanampetsotsa National Park

No discussion of southern Madagascar would be complete without mentioning the island’s seemingly inhospitable but enthralling spiny forests (cover image above). Situated in the south-western corner of Madagascar, the 432km² (43,200 hectares) Tsimanampetsotsa National Park lies in the driest part of the country and protects a section of this unique ecoregion. This is a difficult area to access, but it is not impossible – you can catch a boat to Anakao from Toliara and then a four-wheel-drive or open truck tour from Anakao to the park. The park can only be accessed by road. One has to wonder at the various pronunciations of the name local taxibrousse (a Malagasy bush taxi) drivers must have heard from eager tourists. Tsimanampetsotsa takes its name from Lake Tsimanampetsotsa – the “lake in which no dolphins live”. There are indeed no dolphins in the salty waters, but at certain times of the year (April-November), the alkaline lake is covered in a pink flush of greater and lesser flamingos.

Tsimanampetsotsa is also home to one of the rarest carnivorans in the world: the Grandidier’s mongoose (also known as the giant-striped mongoose or Grandidier’s vontsira). As playful and bold as any mongoose species, they are commonly seen at campsites searching for scraps. They are not found anywhere else on the island.

Away from the sacred salt lake and associated wetlands, the landscape changes to the sparse dry woodlands that define the ecoregion of southern Madagascar. The region boasts exceptionally high levels of plant endemism, with an estimated 95% of plant species classified as endemic. These include the unmistakable octopus trees (Didierea madagascariensis) – a kind of woody semi-succulent not dissimilar to a cactus. They sport enormous and vicious-looking thorns, but this does little to deter the groups of critically endangered Verreaux’s sifaka from clambering and leaping between them. With their profoundly disproportionate limbs, these sifakas are designed for arboreal life, and when moving across the ground, they are forced to do a two-legged canter on their back legs, with arms thrust out to the side for balance.

Scattered within the dry forest plant life are the brooding outlines of ancient, squat baobabs. Known as fony (sacred) baobabs (Adansonia rubrostipa), these trees are fascinating ecosystems in their own right. An ancient baobab, nicknamed the “Grandmother” (or “Mother of the Forest”), has recently been revealed to consist of three different, fused trees: one 200 years old, one 1,000 years old and the oldest being 1,600 years old. The roadrunner-like long-tailed ground-roller dashes around at the base of these trees, its wings lined by bright blue streaks. In the Mitoho Grotto, a hidden cave, blind sleeper goby fish still swim the freshwater pools, isolated forever. Here, fossils bear testament to a time when giant lemurs the size of small gorillas once roamed.

One need not travel to Tsimanampetsotsa if it is a little out of the way and time is limited. A few kilometres north of Toliara, in the Ifaty area, there are great lodges, a reef, guides and bird guides that will show you Didierea and baobabs along with all the bird endemics the area has to offer.

Berenty Reserve

On the banks of the Mandrare River, the small private Berenty Reserve also protects around a third of Madagascar’s remaining tamarind gallery forest. It is a popular destination for visitors looking for close encounters of the lemur kind – ring-tailed lemurs are the true stars of Berenty. Lucky visitors might be treated to a sighting of a Verreaux’s sifaka’s “dancing” movements. Other great fauna to look out for in Berenty include Dumeril’s boa, Madagascar flying fox, sickle-billed vangas and running coua.

The ins and outs of exploring southern Madagascar

Want to go on safari? to Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round. However, the wet season and tropical cyclones during the summer (November to March) can make Ranomafana National Park inaccessible. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, which is particularly important when exploring the island’s central highlands or southernmost tip where temperatures regularly exceed 35–40˚C. You will need just over two weeks to explore this part of Madagascar.

There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the major parks, but luxury accommodation is relatively sparse. An exploration of Madagascar is often a rough and ready experience. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but hiring a car to drive between the various attractions is possible. The roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4×4 is essential. Parts of the central plateau are dangerous to travel through, and it is advisable not to travel alone without being well informed.

Land of plenty

Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer every nature enthusiast. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.

The rainforest of Ranomafana National Park

Want to plan your safari? Get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.

Enquire now

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Resources

Northern Madagascar

Eastern Madagascar

Western Madagascar

Lemurs of Madagascar

Fossa: Five fascinating facts

Madagascar photo gallery

Photographers

Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com

Alistair Marsh’s photography can be seen and purchased from www.alastairmarsh.co.uk

THIS WEEK

I see you. Okavango Delta, Botswana. 2019 Photographer of the Year entrant Clare Doolan

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Top 101 photos + leopard Hosana’s death + Kaokoland’s Himba

The southern hemisphere autumn chill has nothing on the incandescence emitting from AG’s Photographer of the Year 2022. The competition is hotting up, and we’ve selected the Top 101 entries (from a whopping total of 7,389 submissions!) for the year. Our winners are somewhere in these four galleries below.

Hosana, famous leopard of Sabi Sand, has been killed. News of the leopard’s untimely death evoked an outpouring of emotion on social media. Sabi Sand has subsequently issued another statement defending the APU’s actions, stating “there is exponentially more at play here than meets the eye,” and that this “isolated incident is in fact a miniscule fraction of a much bigger picture”. Sadly, further details are unforthcoming. The facts we do know so far are contained in Jamie’s balanced and heartfelt reflection on the incident and Hosana’s life, in our first story below.

In our second story, anthropologist Izzy Sasada delves deep into the challenges facing Kaokoland’s Himba people, reflecting on how climate change and marginalisation are forcing Namibia’s iconic tribe towards modernity.

On a brighter note, safari season is upon us! Check out the hundreds of options we have for travel across the continent – it’s not too late to plan your 2022 travels.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that leopards sometimes fall asleep while hunting? Admittedly, no one else I have spoken to has ever witnessed something similar, and my sample size for this fact is one leopard. His name was Hosana, and I was watching him hunt impalas. He was still relatively young, and I think he might have been trying to learn from past failed hunts, which he had messed up with an overeager approach.

He was crouched in the grass, watching the herd gradually moving towards him. It was one of those gloriously warm autumn days, and the antelope were in no hurry. When the moment finally arrived for him to launch an attack, nothing happened. Still nothing happened when one of them stepped just two metres away from his head. And then the impalas were gone, and I took a closer look. Hosana had dozed off, blissfully unaware that his lunch had just wandered away.

This was just one of the memories running through my mind as I wrote our first story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/hosana-famous-sabi-sand-leopard-killed-under-tragic-circumstances/
HOSANA KILLED
Well-known leopard Hosana of Sabi Sand has been killed in self-defence by an anti-poaching unit – our scientific editor’s take

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/himba-a-people-in-transition/
NAMIBIA’S HIMBA
The Himba people navigate an uncertain, modernising world affected by climate change and marginalisation

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-1/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 1
The next round of Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Check out Gallery 1 of the Top 101.

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-2/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 2
Gallery 2, featuring standout images from Photographer of the Year. Entries are now closed.

Story 5
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-3/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 3
Competition is hotting up in our 2022 selection! Check out some of the top entries in Gallery 3.

Story 6
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-4/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 4
Photographer of the Year overall winners will be announced in late May. See some of the Top 101 entries in Gallery 4.

WATCH: Longing for a new experience, for an escape? Retreat to the makhani palm forests of Kaokoland, Namibia, to refresh the soul. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp is a magical, cosy lodge on the Kunene River, where you’ll experience the culture of Namibia’s iconic tribe, the Himba people (02:30). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 4

Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 2
Gallery 3

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

A dramatic crossing of the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Artur Stankiewicz

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 3

This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 2
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 2

This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 3
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 1

This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:
Gallery 2
Gallery 3
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

The Himba – a people in transition

Deep in the heart of Kaokaland in the Namibian desert live the Himba people – a group of semi-nomadic pastoralists who have lived there for hundreds of years. But climate change, combined with a lack of government support and ongoing marginalisation, is forcing this iconic tribe to choose which parts of modernity to claim, and which to reject.

Namibia’s iconic tribe

If you are familiar with any of Africa’s tribal groups, it is probably the Himba. The tribe are renowned for their unique adornments and their continued adherence to tradition. Women of the tribe are bare-breasted and heavily decorated with symbolic jewellery. They cover their bodies with ‘otjize’, a mixture of animal fat and ochre which gives their skin and hair a reddish hue.

Traditionally, these cattle-herding tribes live in wooden huts which encircle a sacred ancestral fire, and daily work revolves around rearing and herding livestock.

The Himba people have long avoided contact with the modern world, continuing their quiet lives of pastoral cattle-herding in the barren corner of north-western Namibia for generations. The region had no direct Western influence until well into the 20th century, and little is known about the inhabitants of Kaokoland before the first European expeditions in the remote area.

Consequently, the Himba people have often been presented (in particular in recent tourism brochures) as timeless and archaic, representing a ‘forgotten’ or ‘ancient’ age of Africa.

The Himba - a people in transition — A traditional Himba village near Epupa Falls

A foot in each world

Whilst presented as isolated from the modern world, in reality, many Himba people are now moving towards modernity. As the tribe is in transition, Himba culture is not static nor homogenous, and while some aspects of their lifestyle are being left behind, new opportunities await those moving from the barren desert to towns.

For those members of the tribe keen to take the plunge, the nearest town is Opuwo, the capital of the Kunene region. The small settlement contains schools, shops and petrol stations, and for many newcomers, it is the first taste of life in the 21st century.

For an unfamiliar traveller, it is indeed a sight. The town is a melting pot of Namibia’s other tribes too, and large groups converge on the streets of Opuwo, drinking beer, chatting on mobile phones, and gathering in their dozens. Seen alongside the Himba tribe are the Herero people, known for their extravagant Victorian-style dresses, and also members of the Zemba group.

Push factors

Compared to traditional living, life in towns such as Opuwo may seem more convenient, but in reality, there are more push than pull factors causing people to move from rural homesteads.

Mr Ondoba, a Himba traditional chief whose original homestead is 180km north of Opuwo, explains why his family has made the journey south. “Life has become far harder for us in recent years,” he says. Sitting in the shade of one of Opuwo’s many bars, he has a miniature spear tucked behind his ear which he uses to snort ground tobacco between sentences. “We lost all of our cattle to drought a few years ago, and that’s why we’re here. Life without cattle – it is impossible.”

Mr Ondoba now owns a small garden in Opuwo to harvest maize and other plants. While he and his family have enough to survive, his current lifestyle is a far cry from that established in the historic practice of cattle-herding.

The loss of cattle makes it practically impossible for traditional life to continue, as cattle are the basis for subsistence; the need to graze cattle has dictated the Himba’s nomadic way of life for hundreds of years. Cattle have cultural significance too, determining social status, and forming an integral part of marriage and dowries.

Many other Himba residents in Opuwo share a similar story to Mr Ondoba. Down the street, sisters Veerii and Ondu sit on the hard floor, drinking beer. They, likewise, have moved to Opuwo in recent years. “Before, in Onjuva [a homestead about an hour’s drive away] things were better for us. We could live easily. But our cattle were taken – we think by a lion, and we could not stay.”

Namibia’s Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme provides compensation when livestock is lost to predators through the human-wildlife conflict compensation scheme. But it appears the scheme’s efforts are proving inadequate for many.

According to Dr Michael Bollig, an anthropologist who has conducted extensive fieldwork in the Kunene region, the human-wildlife conflict compensation is a “cumbersome process, whereby the conditions are nonsensical.”

“Compensation is a tricky business,” he explains, “conservancy budgets are often too small to adequately compensate for lost livestock, and local communities do not have the administrative infrastructure right away to compensate for this pertinent issue – how could they?’

“Resultantly, compensation is returned at a quarter of the market price for cattle, sometimes after far too great of a waiting time, and the management is so complicated that very few are successful.”

Veerii and her sister’s experience supports this. “We knew we were on a list waiting for compensation, but we never received the money.” Veerii explains, “if the government helped us just by providing say two or three goats, we could rebuild our livestock and we would not have to beg here.”

Livestock loss is exacerbated by extreme droughts which have plagued the region in recent years. Some scientists believe these extreme conditions to be linked to climate change. As global temperatures are set to rise further in the coming decades, the situation in Kunene reflects the general global trend of climate change impacting socio-economically vulnerable groups, from countries that have contributed the least to global emissions.

New problems

For all their hopes of a new life in Opuwo, things are perhaps a disappointment for many Himba people who have made the move. Life in a town requires money, and it is difficult for newcomers to find employment. Many Himba people now survive from the government’s pension scheme, often with one person’s pension handout providing for the entire family.

In homestead Otjakati, just an hour’s drive from Opuwo, life is far quieter. Here, the elders worry about the fate of those looking for employment in towns.

‘”They leave looking for a job, but they won’t find one. Even the most educated Himba won’t get a job,” one of the elders explains. “Then, they turn to things like drinking and end up spending all of the money on alcohol, and then the problems start, like crime and prostitution.”

Alcoholism certainly appears to be a problem amongst Himba urbanites, and the streets of Opuwo are lined with numerous bars.

Discrimination, and favouritism towards dominant tribes are felt to be reasons why few Himba people attain employment. “Most Himba cannot even get a sweeping job,” Ueri tells me, “people think we are dirty.”

A tribe in transition

The world for the Himba people is changing. With inadequate compensation when cattle are lost to predators, exacerbated by an increased frequency of droughts, it is likely that more Himbas will be forced towards towns like Opuwo in search of employment.

Anthropologist and conservation pioneer Margie Jacobson, who has spent decades conducting fieldwork with the Himba tribe, explains how this move is impacting the group.

“Whilst they continued to be great subsistence herders for generations after contact with so-called ‘modernity’,” she says, “now their social systems are beginning to erode.”

“Now,” she explains, “those… democratic and powerful structures are breaking down. With the introduction of euro-centric education, party politics, wage labour and a cash economy, in many cases, every man is for himself.”

Recent research also indicates a loss of indigenous knowledge as Himba people move to towns, with cosmopolitan Himbas experiencing a reduced ability to focus during optical tests than their pastoral counterparts (much like urban people who also exhibit this reduced ability to focus).

Although the Himba people now face a plethora of previously unfamiliar problems as the modern world encroaches upon them, their historical resilience in the face of change should give us hope. Culture is not static, and the Himba should not be perceived as fossilised relics of a past time.

And why shouldn’t they enter the ‘modern’ world?

“The Himba are people,” says Margie, “they want the things that we want, and they have every right to them.”

Asking the elders at Otjakato “where will you be in 20 years’ time?” they assert in response, “we will still be in the homestead, where we belong… but of course, we will visit Opuwo.”

Note: some names have been changed.

Resources

To see images of Himba culture, view a photo series captured by travel photographer Matthieu Rivart.

For insight into Himba traditions and history, read more here.

Northern Namibia and other African safari destinations will benefit from the growth of tourism as a revenue generator that is sensitive to the needs and cultues of local people.

Hosana, famous Sabi Sand leopard, killed under tragic circumstances

The message on our group chat read, “Guys, just reading now that Hosana has been killed”. It was followed by a screenshot of the official announcement from the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media account (the official social media account of Sabi Sand Game Reserve) confirming that a male leopard had been killed by an anti-poaching unit acting in self-defence. The statement, released on Friday, 6 May 2022, notes a “strong likelihood that the leopard was the Hosana male” – a leopard made famous by the Wild Earth live safaris that had followed his story since birth. I have known him since he was born, as I was guiding in Sabi Sand at the time.

Hosana – the legend

Hosana has been in the spotlight since he was only a few hours old. He was born in Djuma Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (Greater Kruger) on the 2nd of February 2016. We know this because footage of him and his sister, Xongile, was broadcast across the globe during a live safari only a few hours after his birth. His mother, Karula, was a legend in her own right and an extremely confiding cat, even when tracked on foot. She allowed us untold hours of access to her cubs, and we watched with joy from the vehicles as they slowly transformed from tiny, clumsy balls of fluff to miniature versions of the lithe predators they were destined to become.

We realised that Karula was sufficiently comfortable for us to approach her and the cubs on foot, though we never pushed her boundaries by trying to get too close. Hosana and Xongile became increasingly accustomed to these strange bipedal interlopers, initially curious but eventually ignoring us. We would sit on the ground and watch two wild leopard cubs play, and I would have to pinch myself occasionally at the magic of it all. He was named Hosana – meaning “the little chief” – and he became famous.

Karula was getting older and eventually disappeared in 2017, just after the cubs turned a year old. Xongile vanished shortly afterwards, following a savage fight with her older sister. Suddenly alone in the world, Hosana had to face independence far sooner than he was ready for, and we watched his struggles with bated breath as the Little Chief learnt to survive.

Against all odds, he did survive and, in so doing, won the hearts of the thousands of people who watched his transformation from bumbling teenager hunting terrapins to a skilled predator. He regularly waltzed through the camp, often in broad daylight, drank from the swimming pool, and occasionally came and looked through the windows of my room. One of the last times I saw Hosana, he was sleeping peacefully 15 metres away from where I was standing. He was three years old and dispersed shortly after that.

We watched from afar like proud mother hens as Hosana filled out, gained a few new scars and eventually established his territory and began siring cubs.

The incident

On Friday, 6 May 2022, the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media pages released a statement confirming that an adult male leopard, believed to be Hosana, had “ambushed” an anti-poaching unit (APU) patrolling a drainage line at dusk. They “responded in self-defence resulting in the leopard losing its life”. Africa Geographic immediately reached out to the Sabi Sand authorities to request further information about the date of the incident and a detailed explanation of the circumstances that led to the leopard’s death. AG also asked for images to confirm that the leopard was, as the statement suggested, Hosana. AG had not yet received a response at the time of publication but will update this article as and when one is forthcoming. None of our other sources were able to confirm conclusively that the leopard was Hosana (through images). However, we can safely assume that it was Hosana as the Sabi Sand authorities would not have invited the inevitable outcry without cause.

The unfortunate use of the word “ambushed” was a poor choice and seemed to imply that Hosana set out to do deliberate harm to the APU. Of course, leopards can and do hunt people on rare occasions (and assuming the leopard wouldn’t hurt people just because it was Hosana is anthropomorphism at its worst). Perhaps this was precisely what happened, but such opportunistic attacks on people are unusual. It seems highly unlikely that Hosana would target a group, especially given his history of being tracked on foot.

The first statement noted that “a full investigation” had been carried out, and it was concluded that all safety protocols were adhered to. However, a second statement was issued on 8th May, stating that the Sabi Sand authorities had conducted “preliminary investigations”, “will be engaging further with the contracted Anti Poaching Unit”, and “are conducting a full investigation”. They confirm that a more detailed statement will be forthcoming.

Bravery in the face of danger

Speculation is inevitable without knowing the exact details of how it all played out (and the conspiracy theories that spring up are almost impressive). We do not know the circumstances – the leopard may have been sick, injured, mating or defending a kill. The APU may have been moving very silently (as would be expected during an anti-poaching patrol) and surprised him. However, we can say that the APU must have believed that he posed a real and immediate threat to their safety. These men and women risk their lives to protect our continent’s most endangered animals, and we cannot vilify their reaction in the heat of the moment. They work under considerable pressure and in perilous circumstances. That was not Hosana the beloved leopard to them – it was an animal capable of killing a person with relative ease and speed.

No matter how special that leopard was to so many, a leopard’s life cannot be valued above an anti-poaching team’s safety. Their work in protecting the region’s rhinos and other endangered species and searching for and clearing snares is vital and requires enormous bravery. When patrolling the bushveld on foot, there is always a risk of encountering a potentially deadly animal, and things can go wrong quickly. Just a few days before the announcement about Hosana, 36-year old Shando Mathebula was killed by a buffalo while carrying out his duties as a field ranger in the Kruger National Park. By virtue of the nature of their work, APUs are forced to move quietly at risky times of the day, increasing their chances of a lethal encounter. It could have been an elephant, hippo, lion, or buffalo, but in this case, it was Hosana.

A tragic combination of circumstance

We are not able to comment on what wildlife training the APU in question had received. However, a full-blown leopard warning charge is a genuinely terrifying thing, and it requires preparation and training to face it down and then extricate oneself safely. It can be explosive, loud and fast. This incident does emphasise the importance of training those who operate in the field to handle wildlife encounters – both for their safety and that of the animals they meet in the line of duty. There may be circumstances where there is no option but to shoot an animal to save lives, but it should always be the last resort.

If the leopard in question is Hosana, he was cut down in his prime. This is an absolute tragedy. I mourn for the leopard we knew and loved – a goofball who treated us to endless hours of both hilarious antics and fascinating leopard behaviour. We learned so much from him about leopard life, and I am so profoundly grateful for having had the opportunity to watch him grow. To me, and to so many, he was a special cat, and while he would never have known it, he changed a fair few lives for the better. His clumsy insouciance was undeniably endearing, his resilience heartening. After everything he survived, it is deeply upsetting for those who knew him that he died in this way.

In loving memory of Hosana, 2016 – 2022

I cannot find it in my heart to blame the actions of the APU, though I do not doubt that they are currently being dragged through the mud on various platforms. I hope that lessons were learnt and that his death was not entirely in vain.

I am sorry, Hosana, for how things ended. You inspired a love of Africa and her creatures in people of every generation across the world, and I hope that when the grief is less raw, your legacy will continue to drive that passion and bring people together. I donated to a rehabilitation and anti-poaching organisation in your memory because, to me, you were the essence of the wild, and now, more than ever, the wild needs our support.

Rest in peace, Little Chief.

Want to send your tributes to Hosana? Join the club to share your memories and tributes below. Learn how below this story.

Resources

Read about Hukumuri, another leopard made famous by live safaris, who died last year.

Read more about leopard behaviour here.

THIS WEEK

The setting sun spotlights a herd of elephants in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant.

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Last epic photo entries + best spots to see leopard + the swallow songstress

The hairy rock fig tree is again dripping with delicious ripe figs, and our bushveld garden is the centre of attention for frugivores seeking that energy fix. Green pigeons, black-collared barbets, grey go-away-birds and other feathered beauties are jostling for the spoils during the day, and epauletted fruit bats and woodland dormice are amongst the nighttime partygoers. OK, this exciting news (for us) does not rock the world like Elon Musk buying Twitter or Depp suing Heard for US$50m – but it’s all relative. Right? Enjoy your own personal relativity – it’s free and all around you. Seriously.

In other local news, the onset of the dry winter months sees queleas begin to flock like locusts and the thinning out bushveld means that we now hear more roaring lions and whooping hyenas during the dark hours. The morning air has a chill to it, and that morning dose of pressed coffee goes down like a home-sick mole 🙂

This is also the start of the safari season – a busy time for teamAG (loving it) – and our clients are out there having fun, learning stuff and making a difference. Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

I’m a bit giddy this week as the final entries for Photographer of the Year are now in. We had so many extraordinary pics in our last round of submissions that we’ve put together two jam-packed galleries for you.

Our entrants this week have scoured under-explored corners of the continent. I’m particularly taken with the photos of Sahara wanderers, Sebeïba ceremonies, and Algeria’s ancient Hoggar Mountains. Omar Dib’s images invoke echoes of spiritualism past and ethereal glimpses into the present. Also not to be missed is some otherworldly underwater photography. There’s plenty to satisfy the wildlife cravings too, including a black leopard photographed in the dead of night in Laikipia. Check out our two galleries below.

In our story, you’ll also spot a black leopard – and tips on where to find one – which will likely serve as a reference for your leopard-seeking adventures for years to come. We’ve compiled a list of our seven favourite leopard-viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings. So read on and let the adventures begin!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that female songbirds sing? Goodness Jamie, I hear you exclaim, of course they do! That is patently obvious to anyone who has ever spent more than five minutes watching a member of the enormous Passeri (songbird) clade.

And yet, scientists only just recently confirmed that female barn swallows (one of the most researched bird species on the planet) like a good ditty as much as their male companions. How did this come to be? It comes down to research bias, and the authors of the resulting paper explain it best themselves. However, one of their conclusions is that “men [the predominant researchers] are significantly less likely than women to lead research projects studying female song”. Of course, the reverse is true in some cases. For instance, we are only just beginning to understand the role of bull elephants in herd memory, behaviour and demographics.

Biases aside, the female birdsong revelation also shows that sometimes a disconnect can develop between science and the bleedin’ obvious.

Story 1
EPIC PHOTOS 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-1/
One of two galleries featuring our Week 13 Photographer of the Year selection – our last round of entries – filled with award-worthy submissions celebrating Africa. Final judging will take place through the month of May

Story 2
EPIC PHOTOS 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-2/
The second gallery of our Week 13 selection – our last round of entries – chock-a-block with extraordinary Photographer of the Year entries. Winners will be announced at the end of May

Story 3
SPOTTING LEOPARDS
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-7-best-places-to-see-leopards-in-africa/
Want to see leopards on your next safari? Here are the 7 top destinations for seeing this elusive member of the Big 5

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

We have a few places left on our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe). The safari sold out within hours of going live on our website, so we opened a second slot for those that missed out. We will not be adding further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!
– Here is why you need to go on this safari
– Check out the details here

JUST DO IT

For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days. You know you want to

OR, DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL SAFARI and we will hand-craft it

WATCH: In the coming weeks, billions of newly spawned sardines will flank the coast of South Africa. The frenzy of pursuant predators will produce a spectacle followed by hundreds of marine enthusiasts. See what the Sardine Run fuss is all about (03:04). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 2

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here is Gallery 2 of the best submissions for this week.

Exit downstage left. Children play outside the Hotel Mahazatra in Antananarivo. Madagascar. © Aimen Chen

Living still life. A Natal forest treefrog (*Leptopelis natalensis*) sits for its portrait. Kenneth Steinbank Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

An impressive leopard surveys his forest kingdom. Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania. © Hannah Strand

Surefooted mountain dweller. The endangered Walia ibex is found only in the mountains of Ethiopia. Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

A young, curious and restless pangolin takes an interest in its photographer. Mozambique. © Jo Taylor

A cheetah cub in joyful full trot. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

Sunrise captured from Assekrem hermitage. At 2,726 metres high, the early 20th century hermitage overlooking the Hoggar Mountains once served as a retreat for Frenchman Charles de Foucaut, who spent the last years of his life studying Tuareg language and culture. Ahaggar National Park, Algeria. © Omar Dib

A tapestry of red-billed queleas takes flight. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Prelena Soma Owen

A black mamba takes shelter from a snake eagle. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Sara Jenner

Dance macabre. A lioness drags a zebra carcass away after having her fill. The photographer had the opportunity to follow the pride during three days of feeding. On the third day, this lioness dragged the remaining carcass away into a site between tall grasses. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Silvia Ribeiro

Sandy anemones (*Aulactinia reynaudi*), found in shallow coastal waters around southern Africa, are dependant on tidal and wave action to bring oxygen and nutrients. When there is not enough “fresh” water, the anemones close up. But when their pools are full of water, a bright festival of colour ensues. False Bay, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

I’ve got you covered. A cheetah mother and her sub-adult cub take a quiet but vigilant rest. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

After standing statue-like for the longest of moments, a shoebill makes the attack and captures a marbled lungfish. A satisfying moment for the photographer: “When the shoebill catches a fish in front of you, you will never forget that action.” Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

After the successful kill, the shoebill gulps plenty of water, washing down its fish prey. Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

Portrait of a frenzied and ferocious sugar ant. Capturing an image of this busy ant was a challenge for the photographer, who was pleased with the focused and striking result. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

A young man practises his dancing during the annual Sebeïba ceremony in the oasis of Djanet. Male dancers and female singers represent their communities during the rituals held in the first month of the Islamic lunar calendar. “The Touaregs have celebrated this event every year for more than 3000 years. This picture shows one of the children dancing like a man… and learning how to protect this national heritage of Algeria.” Djanet, Algeria. © Omar Dib

In a rare moment of tranquility amidst the angry ocean and the treacherous rugged west coast of South Africa, the stars align. The photographer had tried for years to capture a magical occasion of calm depicting the life apparent in the intertidal zones and rock pools. “I had to work as fast as possible to capture all the photos required for this panorama whilst staying well alert.” Western Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Friendly fire. Not all interactions between the usually sociable Cape weavers are amicable. When real estate and resources are tight, those stepping out are reminded to toe the line. Langebaan, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 1

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here is Gallery 1 of the best submissions for this week.

Static trapeze. A young mountain gorilla hones its climbing skills. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Daniel Walther

In an unusual occurrence, small fish evade the tentacles of a smack of South African box jellyfish (*Carybdea branchi*), which in this case did not appear to be hunting the fish. “I was able to observe both for a while and none of the fish were caught,” says the photographer, who speculates this may be a rare case of commensalism – with the small fish possibly taking refuge between the tentacles. Cape Town, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Great expectations. A serval kitten tests the boundaries of its agility as mom keeps a watchful eye. © Andrea Castelli

Floating water. A sunbird demonstrates a preference for water from a leaking pipe, mere metres from the Saloum River. Sokone, Senegal. © Cecile Terrasse

Imminent inquisition. A boomslang on the hunt in Mokala National Park. South Africa. © Chris de Billot

The persistence of memory. A mountain gorilla idly watches over his family, appearing to be deep in thought. Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo. © Christy Bennie

“Though she be but little, she is fierce”. A barking gecko fights back after facing the fate imposed by a juvenile pale chanting goshawk. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

Big smooches. A tender moment between a black-backed jackal and its pup. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Danielle Carstens

A minute yet radiant grass fly dazzles. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

Mighty things from small beginnings grow. A *Baryphas* jumping spider scans her surroundings from the perches of a fallen yellow leaf. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

A pangolin rescued from the illegal trade photographed while undergoing rehabilitation. The pangolin will be released back into the wild once the rehabilitation is complete. South Africa. © Dominic Cruz

A colony of purple soft coral (*Alcyonium fauri*) – 4mm organisms made up of polyps with eight arms each – extend their arms to feed. Here, one polyp can be seen retracting all of its arms to its mouth after catching food. Cape Town, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Warm words with a Sahara wanderer. Nomads of Algeria once travelled the desert in great numbers. Today the rovers of this ever-changing landscape have been reduced to small groups, scattered across the harsh sandy terrain. “I met this nomad in the heart of the desert. He smiled through our entire meeting. I asked if I can photograph him and share these images, and was so happy when he accepted.” Tamanrasset, Algeria. © Omar Dib

A pygmy goose launches off the Chobe River. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Danielle Carstens

An ostrich, rudely interrupted during her dust bath, leaps into retreat after being startled by a predator. Namibia. © Vicki Santello

A desert-adapted lioness, collared for scientific research, strides across the harsh landscape. Namibia. © Vicki Santello

Burning inversion. The morning light bursts through the silhouettes of baobabs. Kubu island, Makgadikgadi, Botswana. © Simone Osborne

THIS WEEK

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Last chance + Tarangire’s migration + farewell to super tusker Tolstoy

Last chance …

This is the FINAL COUNT DOWN for entries to our immeasurably inspirational Photographer of the Year. Entries close in two days, and then my amazing team starts to sift through the weekly selections for the nuggets. US$10,000 and an epic Botswana safari on offer for the winners!

MEANWHILE, the South African Minister of Environment (et al.) has been instructed by the courts to pause her plans to issue trophy hunting quotas for leopards, black rhinos and elephants. In my op-ed of a few months ago, I bemoaned her application of suspect ‘science’ in her decision-making processes – and that’s precisely what the courts have decided. She failed to provide the requisite scientific evidence that such hunts would not be detrimental to the species, amongst other shortcomings. Watch this space for counter-measures by the trophy hunting industry and retabling of the quotas.

Surely it’s time for real science and demonstrable benefits to local people to be the primary parameters in these critical decisions and for political wrangling to exit backstage?

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

In ANOTHER BLOW to Africa’s dwindling population of giant elephants, Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy has died, six weeks after being treated for a spear wound. We celebrate the life of this iconic, majestic elephant in our second story below.

This week we had a really tough time narrowing down the excellent entries for our Photographer of the Year Week 12 selection. This gallery is one of our best yet – so grab a coffee and take a moment to browse and be inspired by some incredible moments captured around the continent. See the gallery below.

As a member of the AG tribe you are naturally familiar with the Great Migration. But another often forgotten national park in northern Tanzania offers a similar and no less sensational experience: the Tarangire Migration. Tarangire National Park is a mecca for wildlife enthusiasts. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks. Read more about the true romance offered on safari in this national park, in our first story below.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The 27th of April was World Hyena Day, and while I have personally always found World Something Days a bit trite, I can never resist the urge to share a fun fact about my favourite animal.

There is a very persistent misconception (twisted from dated research) that spotted hyena cubs are the Cain and Abel of the animal kingdom – committing siblicide on a regular basis. Did you know that this is largely utter nonsense? Yes, hyena cubs are born with fully erupted teeth, and they will squabble to establish dominance during their first few weeks. During times of resource shortages, this hierarchy may translate to facultative siblicide because the dominant sibling outcompetes its submissive sibling for access to milk – but such instances are rare.

Given their already poor reputation, it seems unfair to suggest that spotted hyenas are born with such murderous instincts. Sibling bonds in hyenas are strong, and, for twin sisters, in particular, they may last a lifetime.

Story 1
MAGNIFICENT TARANGIRE
https://africageographic.com/stories/tarangire-national-park/
Tarangire National Park’s amazing scenery, giant baobabs and abundance of wildlife make for the perfect safari

Story 2
LOSING TOLSTOY
https://africageographic.com/stories/iconic-super-tusker-tolstoy-dies-in-amboseli/
Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy (51) has died, six weeks after being treated for a spear wound

Story 3
INCREDIBLE PICS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-12/
Browse our Week 12 Photographer of the Year entries. Last chance to enter and win!

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

DESERT & DELTA – 11 days
This iconic and ever-popular safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets.

WALKING WITH GIANTS – 13 days
Join us in Kenya’s Tsavo National Park as we follow the wise old elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River and onwards by vehicle to the Indian Ocean coast at Malindi. We hope to see huge elephant tuskers, the famous Tsavo maneless lions, rare hirola and fringe-eared oryx, the long-necked gerenuk and many of the over 500 bird species. This is an authentic safari – from a bygone era!

WATCH: This ghost town in Namibia is haunted by a rare creature. Watch how elusive brown hyenas have made a home in the Namib Desert ruins (03:14). Click here to watch

Iconic Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy dies

Iconic super tusker Tolstoy dies in Amboseli — Tolstoy pictured in front of Mt Kilimanjaro

Tolstoy, the Amboseli super tusker, has died at the age of 51, just weeks after being treated for a spear wound.

Tolstoy was speared in his right front leg six weeks ago, likely by a farmer defending his crops from one of the tusker’s night-time crop-raids, according to Big Life Foundation. He was treated by joint Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS)/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (DSWT) mobile veterinary units at the time, and the teams continued to monitor him following the treatment.

On the morning of his death on 27 April, rangers in Kimana Sanctuary (the central part of a corridor linking Amboseli National Park and Chyulu Hills) who had been checking on Tolstoy every morning and evening since the initial treatment, found him lying down. While it was not unusual for him to lie down, on closer inspection the rangers found that he was struggling to get up.

“Following another treatment, the rescue team spent hours trying to get him back on his feet, eventually trying to prop him up with a front-end loader,” says BLF’s Jeremy Goss. “But this time around, he was just too weak, and died lying there.”

The combined efforts of thirty people from KWS, DSWT, and BLF, one helicopter, four vehicles, the front-end loader, and the best veterinary medicine possible was not enough to prevent Tolstoy from succumbing to his injury.

Tolstoy was a member of the prolific TD family of super tuskers, and survived multiple spear wounds and drought over the years. He was uncle to Amboseli’s famous elephant, Tim, who died in 2020 at the age of 50. The two were often seen together and maintained a kinship throughout their lives. Tolstoy’s mother, Teresia, was the matriarch and leader of the TD family, known for her long, straight tusks. “The males born to the TD family have all been magnificent and each one has had a calm and gentle personality,” according to Amboseli Trust for Elephants. “Tim and Tolstoy had many friends among the independent males and were much admired by the females.” Tolstoy’s tusks were once so long that they grazed the ground as he walked. But the lower portion of his tusks were sawn off by Kenya Wildlife Service in an attempt to relieve him of extra baggage – an action which was criticised by some at the time.

“Tolstoy was one of the few elephants in Africa with thick tusks that grazed the ground,” according to Elephant Voices. “To the world he was a super tusker. To us, he was Tolstoy, an elephant who came up through the ranks over the course of the time we have worked in Amboseli – from a calf in a well-known family, to a role model to younger males and a father to many of Amboseli’s younger elephants.”

One of Kenya’s much-loved elephant elders and ultimately a victim of human-wildlife conflict, Tolstoy was well known by conservationists for his calm nature. The spear wound that led to his death was the fourth spearing incident he suffered in as many years. “The case of Tolstoy is a reminder that there is still a lot of work to be done and this will not be able to continue without financial support and the support from the communities who must reckon with Tolstoy and his like on a daily basis, especially with regards to land subdivision,” says BLF’s Josh Clay.

Land subdivision plans have been completed for areas in the Amboseli ecosystem, whereby one million acres have been divided into tens of thousands of privately owned plots. It is essential that communities and conservation organisations work together in creating land-use plans that take into account the needs of both humans and wildlife to prevent similar incidents of conflict in the future.

Tolstoy was a familiar sight in and around Amboseli (photos courtesy @ryan.wilkie.photos)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 12

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Tiptoeing on the clouds. A crab spider considers the white roses of a quiet suburban garden. Centurion, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

Lioness and cubs in the aureate morning light of the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Alex Brackx

Knock, knock, anybody home? A rock monitor emerges from an unproductive stakeout in the bowels of a tree stump. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Leshalabe Matlala

Gotcha! Serval in flight. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

The wind ruffles the fur of a large gelada, exaggerating its large and intimidating appearance. Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Pepe Arespacochaga

A picture-perfect lioness at the golden hour. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

Portrait of a Kilimanjaro mustard baboon spider – a feisty, old-world tarantula. Ruiru, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A black-maned Kalahari lion surveys everything the light touches. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Anja Denker

A bickering blowout between two hooded vultures, squabbling for the spoils of a nearby warthog carcass. Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe. © Anup Kiritbhai Mistry

Read between the lines. The face of Medina, the 95 year-old matriarch of a Bisharin nomad family, tells tales of an almost century spent in the Bayuda Desert. Sudan. © Beatrice Wong

Buffalos with grass-stained horns comically cavorting. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

An intensive grooming session nurtures chimp kinship in Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Gonçalo Ferreira

Mating of the damselflies. Parys, Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie

Twice shy. A leopard cub timidly peers out from the tree canopy. Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya. © Heiko Mennigen

Flower power. A juvenile spiny flower mantis clutches onto the violas, showing off its powers of aggressive flower mimicry. Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve, Durban, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

All eyes on you. A rain spider (*Palystes* sp.) locks its eight eyes on the photographer. Mt. Kenya, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

An ostrich indulges in a dramatic dust bath. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Kaleidoscopic salt pans of Walvis Bay. Namibia. © Jaroslaw Klej

Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Alex Brackx

A doe-eyed steenbok ram forages peacefully, unperturbed by the presence of the photographer. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Leshalabe Matlala

Of provocation and regret. A juvenile lanner falcon is unimpressed with a black-backed jackal who startled the doves away from Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana. © Michiel Duvenhage

A Neumann’s marsh terrapin photographed amidst the ponds of Ruiru, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

Star of the show. An imposing silverback makes his way downstage. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Pedro Amaral

An African wild cat freezes to cautiously observe its surroundings. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Peter Winnan

A small calf blithely amuses itself with its mother’s tusks as she grazes on. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Robert Elliott

An acrobatic four-striped grass mouse dines out at a dizzying height. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

A juvenile rhinoceros viper – a species heavily poached for the pet trade – clings on to existence in a small fragment of a once-great forest. Kakamega Forest, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A pre-game stretch as this spotted eagle-owl prepares for an evening hunt. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Serval kittens in sprightly play. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

Tarangire National Park

Northern Tanzania’s safari scene is dominated by the Serengeti and neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater. There are many good reasons for this – sightings are reliable, especially when the Great Migration is passing through, and the scenery is breathtaking. Yet there is a third, often forgotten, national park in the northern circuit: Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a place of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas, where wildlife roams in abundance. In this region, travel is still infused with the true romance of an African safari.

Tarangire National Park

Situated in Tanzania’s Manyara Region, just southeast of Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire is just over 100km from the city of Arusha. This makes it easily accessible for travellers en route to the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area, situated further west. The national park extends over 2,850km² (280,500 hectares), but the land available to wildlife is expanded by Game Controlled Areas, conservancies, and the Tarangire Conservation Area. Here, people and wildlife exist side-by-side. Several luxury lodges operate in these concessions on the park’s fringes, allowing their guests to experience both the park and the increased freedom away from its confines – by offering night drives, for example.

From the Tarangire River in the north, rolling hills give way to vast swamps. These soak up the rain like sponges and maintain a tinge of green, even during the dry season. Away from the watery marshlands, the landscape is dotted with granitic ridges, red-earth termite mounds and sparse whistling thorn (Vachellia drepanolobium) woodlands. Throughout, bulbous baobabs (Adansonia digitata) impose themselves upon the backdrop, dwarfing even the enormous herds of elephants that forage around them.

The Tarangire Migration

Life in the northern section of the park (in terms of lodges, campsites, and wildlife) revolves around the sinuous bends of the Tarangire River. This geographical feature plays a pivotal role in Tarangire’s most remarkable natural phenomenon – the Tarangire migration. Though not involving the same wildlife numbers as the famous Great Migration, Tarangire’s migration is arguably equally sensational given its strict seasonality and the exceptional variety and densities of wildlife.

The park is part of an enormous ecosystem that includes Lake Manyara, the Maasai Steppe, and the area from Lake Natron to Mount Kilimanjaro. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction. These include several species of antelope, buffalo, giraffe and zebra. Elephants also arrive in their hundreds, and Tarangire is believed to have one of the largest elephant populations in Tanzania.

Elephants, elephants (and everything else) everywhere

Tarangire is an elephant enthusiast’s paradise. It is impossible to spend time in the park without encountering these iconic pachyderms, feeding at the base of a baobab, strolling through the riverine forests or playing in the mud of the marshes. They are often present in a conglomeration of herds that may number close to 300 individuals – an incredible sight for even the most seasoned safari-goer.

Elephants aside, Tarangire is home to one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife outside of the Serengeti ecosystem. The dry season influx of ungulates sees a profusion of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, eland, hartebeest and buffalo assembled near the river, or around residual pools in the swamps. Such a concentration of prey serves to attract the attention of the park’s various resident predators – particularly the ever-attendant lions. The lions of the Silale Swamps are particularly renowned, not only for their marshy hunting techniques, but also for their habit of lounging in the boughs of trees, perhaps to escape the tsetse flies. Leopards and cheetah are also present, though less regularly seen, and even African painted wolves (wild dogs) come haring through the park on occasion.

Away from the wetter areas of the park, visitors may even be fortunate enough to spot a gerenuk or fringe-eared oryx, making Tarangire one of the few places in Tanzania to see these arid specialists.

Twitching through Tarangire

For those able to tear their eyes away from the mammal life on display, Tarangire’s many varied habitats confer it the status of one of Tanzania’s top birding hotspots, with over 500 species recorded. From chattering flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds to stately ostriches picking their way across the plains, avid birders will find it a struggle to know where to look next. In contrast to mammal viewing, the best bird sightings are during the wetter months (November to May). This is when the swamps come into their own for waterbird watching, and migrant arrivals fill the skies. In addition, many dry-region bird species such as vulturine guineafowl and northern pied babbler are present at the margins of their ranges. Enthusiasts can while away the hours searching for the drab but sought-after endemic rufous-tailed weavers and ashy starlings, or search for the flash of colour signalling the arrival of the dazzling red-and-yellow barbets.

Explore & Stay

Like much of East Africa, Tarangire experiences two rainy seasons: the “short” rains in November and the “long” rains in April and May. However, heavy rainfall can occur any time from November until May, and many of the lodges and camps close down for the rainy season when the park becomes boggy and difficult to traverse.

Accommodation ranges from the basic to luxury in Tarangire; a hot-air balloon safari offers an opportunity to see the Serengeti from a unique perspective at Lemala Mpingo Ridge Lodge; here, guests can enjoy sweeping views across the Tarangire River and valley

Accommodation options in Tarangire National Park and surrounds range from public and private campsites to high-end luxury lodges. Naturally, Tarangire is at its best during the dry season, from July until October. During this time, concentrations of wildlife are mind-boggling, and, conveniently, this is also when tsetse flies are at their least active. Walking safaris at this time of year are as phenomenal as game drives, and the open habitats allow for comfortable and easy encounters with the larger wildlife species. For those looking to combine their trip with a chance to see the Great Migration, this is generally when the zebra and wildebeest begin to move north into the Maasai Mara in Kenya.

One of the major attractions of Tarangire National Park is that even during the tourism high season (June to August) when many of the parks throughout Africa are at their busiest, it remains one of Tanzania’s best-kept, uncrowded secrets.

Tarangire Treetops is situated on the path of an annual elephant migration, amid a landscape of rolling, baobab-studded hills

The perfect safari

Tarangire is often treated simply as a stop-over between the more popular destinations on Tanzania’s northern safari circuit. Yet those visitors who opt to explore this varied and fascinating national park are richly rewarded by one of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. With magnificent scenery and an abundance of wildlife, Tarangire National Park has every ingredient needed for the perfect safari.

Want to go on safari to Tarangire? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

THIS WEEK

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Epic pics (last chance to enter) + best pools + Mara family safari

There has been much ANGER and polarised debate about two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana being reduced to hunting trophies on some needy person’s wall. And so it should be – these critical issues need to be broadcast to the world so that decision-makers understand the gravity of the situation and work to stop this annihilation of Africa’s icons. Thanks to those who weighed into the debate in the comments beneath our breaking news report. As often happens, many of the large news networks picked up on our story and repackaged it for their audiences – excellent!

What has this got to do with your next African safari?

Our profound belief is that people should safari in Africa knowing the brutal truths, the SPECTACULAR joys, and the real difference they can make when choosing a long-haul African safari over a short-haul beach vacation. This is why teamAG blends these flavours into our eclectic story recipe for you – we believe that YOU want to know what makes Africa tick and how you can get involved via discussion, safari or donations. Sadly many safaris are still sold based on myths and a sanitised version of Africa.

We are currently awash with safari enquiries – proving that increasing numbers of people are taking our Manifesto seriously. Thank you all from the bottom of our hearts. Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Only one week left! If you haven’t entered Photographer of the Year, now’s your chance. The entries are boiling beyond fever pitch. This week’s selection (below) is one of our hottest yet, featuring famous gorilla Ndakasi and her rescuer André Bauma, and magnificent cats of the Mara. Enter now!

This week we’re also bringing some poolside magic to top off your safari. Whether your vibe is gazing out over the big blue in an oceanside pool, or spending your safari break taking a fresh dip while gazing over wildlife at a waterhole – we’ve got a recommendation for you in our second story.

Safe travels to you all.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

If you haven’t seen the documentary Virunga, do yourself a favour and watch it immediately (or as soon as you have finished reading this newsletter). When you do, you will understand how André Bauma (see this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery) became beloved by millions worldwide. His unflinching refusal to leave his gorilla charges as the M23 rebel fighters invaded the national park was an act of absolute heroism.

Animals have always paid the price of our wars. Did you know that curlew sandpipers and many other bird species depart from Africa on their migration back to Europe in the next week or two? For many, their path will take them directly across the skies of Ukraine… Somewhat unsurprisingly, “warfare ecology” is becoming an increasingly important field of study.

Story 1
EPIC PHOTOS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-11/
This week’s selection for Photographer of the Year. Winners will receive their share of a US$10,000 cash prize and an epic Botswana safari. Don’t miss out.

Story 2
BEST POOLS
https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-30-best-swimming-pools/
Our list of THE 30 best swimming pools in Africa. Best views, best sightings, spots for sundowners & more!

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This could be the BEST INVESTMENT you ever make
Family safari SPECIAL OFFER – stay 4, pay 3. This classic 6-day safari at Enkewa Camp in Kenya’s Maasai Mara is what families dream of – for kids of all ages ;-). Expect fun activities in camp, a local village and the bushveld. And, of course, the usual Mara wildlife Big 5 extravaganza – enjoyed in a game drive vehicle, on foot or in a hot air balloon.

Zen Safari moments
This 4-day SALT PANS add-on to your Botswana safari is ideal for that feeling (we all know it) at the end of an enthralling, exhausting wildlife safari when you want to chill out and reboot. Price ranges to suit all pockets

WATCH: The largest mammal migration on Earth. Can you guess the species? (0:44). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 11

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Shaking it off. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andrea Castelli

Camel thorn trees and mountains in the early morning light. Sossusvlei, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

A lone gemsbok crosses impressionistic dunes. Perfectly adapted to its desert environment, the gemsbok can go days without water, thriving in this barren landscape. Namib desert, Namibia. © Dewald Tromp

Relevé in shades of coral. Flamingos sashay through the shallows. São Sebastião, Vilanculos, Mozambique. © Jay Roode

A flock of red-billed queleas against the early morning light. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, aquiline muzzles brushing the red earth in symmety. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. © Julian Asher

A colourful klipfish shows off its good side. False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa. © Peet J. van Eeden

Fear and confusion in the eye of a black rhino before its horns are removed by a team of veterinarians using a chainsaw – an unfortunate but necessary measure to protect rhinos against the illegal wildlife trade. South Africa. © Marcus Westberg

The herd crosses a dry lake. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Serval on the prowl, backlit by the setting sun. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

An African wildcat rests in a camel thorn tree, its coat blending in with the tree’s bark. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Daniela Anger

A secretary bird feasts on a juvenile mole snake. The bird’s nictitating membrane – which can be drawn across the eye for protection and to moisten it while maintaining vision – is visible. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Marijke Claassen

Reading an ancient hand-written Bible in Lalibela – one of Ethiopia’s holiest cities and a site of pilgrimage for many Christians in the country. © Mark Levitin

A ceremonial warrior – a member of the chief’s retinue – performs during the Odwira Festival. Dunkwa-on-Offin, Ghana. © Nyani Quarmyne

Rain-soaked leopard. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andrea Castelli

Zebras among a sea of chaos at a waterhole. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

Killer instinct. A cheetah, captive bred in a zoo in Canada and relocated to Imire Rhino and Wildlife Conservancy in Zimbabwe as a part of a rehabilitation programme, makes its first-ever kill. After 60 days spent in a boma to acclimatise to its new surroundings, the cheetah underwent a “soft release” exercise, slowly allowing it to transition to the wild. Within 24 hours of its release from the boma, this cheetah managed to prey on a waterbuck calf. Zimbabwe. © Sam Turley

Africa’s 30 best swimming pools

Africa’s sensational destinations each come with their own magnetism. But no matter where you happen to find yourself, a magnificent swimming pool is guaranteed to add an extra element of magic.

Read on to discover our favourite pools in Africa.

Want to go discover the best swimming pools while on an African safari? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.

Best for ocean views

What can be better than gazing out over the big blue, cocktail in hand, while floating in temperate, calm waters? Look no further to find the best oceanside pools.

Azulik Lodge, Vilanculos, Mozambique: Perched atop a massive dune in a wildlife sanctuary is the tropical paradise of Azulik Lodge. As views from infinity pools go, this one across this corner of the Indian Ocean is hard to beat. Grab an R&R (Tipo Tinto rum and raspberry) or some fruit kebabs, and let the peace of paradise wash over you.

Canelands Beach Club & Spa, Salt Rock, South Africa: With 180˚ views of the ocean, the long pool at Canelands Beach Club & Spa is the perfect spot to watch for the fins of passing dolphins surfing the waves.

Tintswalo Atlantic, Cape Town, South Africa: Situated on the ocean’s edge, below Chapman’s Peak and offering spectacular views of one of the most beautiful urban/natural settings in the world, the view from the Tintswalo Atlantic pool is simply unbeatable.

Grab a cocktail at Azulik Lodge; soak up Cape Town at Tintswalo Atlantic; search for dolphins at Canelands Beach Club & Spa

Best for bush views

You can never get too much of the bush. But after a long day out on safari, soaking it all up while washing off the day and taking in the surroundings can be just the decompression you need.

Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: 1.4 million years ago, ancient tectonic forces began to propel lava to the surface in a series of volcanic eruptions that created the Chyulu Hills. Today, the swimming pool at Old Donyo Lodges looks out across this magnificent ancient scenery where some of the last great tuskers still roam.

Settlers Drift, Kariega Game Reserve, South Africa: Tucked into a steep, densely vegetated slope in a remote corner of Kariega Game Reserve, Settlers Drift offers spectacular views over the Bushman’s River, and the pool is the best spot to take it all in.

Khaya Ndlovu Manor House, Hoedspruit, South Africa: The infinity pool at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House looks out across to the Limpopo Drakensberg Mountains and over the miles of bushveld between. On a blazing hot Lowveld day, take refuge in the pool and watch arguably one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills, Zimbabwe: Matobo Hills is Zimbabwe’s oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like the rest of Amalinda Lodge, the swimming pool has been incorporated into a granite outcrop to look out across a wilderness of wildlife and history.

View the bush below at Settlers Drift; overlook the Drakensberg at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House; experience true wilderness at Amalinda Lodge

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania: In the heart of Serengeti National Park, the pool at Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge overlooks the vast sweeping plains of the “place where the land runs forever”. Close to the Maasai kopjes, the Museum of Olduvai Gorge, Seronera and the Grumeti River, visitors here will have no shortage of options for adventuring. But a day spent at the pool overlooking the bush is high up on the bucket list for memorable moments in the Serengeti.

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge’s view over the Serengeti makes a whole day spent in the pool well worth it

Best for sighting wildlife

Don’t feel like being out on safari for the day? Satiate your FOMO by having your own sightings right in camp.

Mihingo Lodge, near Lake Mburo National Park, Uganda: Perched high atop the granite boulders of a kopje, the Mihingo Lodge infinity pool provides a magnificent vantage point for spotting wildlife in the savannah valley below.

Mihingo Lodge offers arguably one of the best pools in Africa

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe: On the northern border of Gonarezhou National Park, one of the last true pristine wilderness areas in Africa, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge looks out across the vast expanse of the Save River. Sip a cocktail in the cool waters while watching animals moving in for a drink below.

Saruni Samburu, near Samburu National Reserve, Kenya: Guests of Saruni Samburu can take their pick between two different swimming pools that overlook a waterhole. Escape the arid heat and watch as some of Samburu’s fascinating wildlife wanders through! Check out our Samburu special offer here.

Gonarezhou’s Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge overlooks the Save River; view the waterhole from Saruni Samburu’s pool; take a dip in the Great Karoo at the Manor House in Samara

The Manor House, Samara Karoo Reserve, Great Karoo, South Africa: Samara Karoo Reserve is a pioneering conservation journey to regenerate South Africa’s semi-arid Great Karoo region through rewilding and responsible tourism. The mountain landscape unfolds over a 21-metre infinity pool, descending to a waterhole frequently visited by wildlife.

Best oases in the African heat

Africa’s sweltering sun and desert destinations don’t need to leave you feeling flustered. Soothe away the scorch in the cool welcoming waters.

Pel’s Post, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger National Park: The magnificent eco-lux property Pel’s Post offers views over the Luvuvhu River. It is an exclusive-use property, so the pool is shared only with family and friends. Temperatures in the magical Makuleke Contractual Park regularly exceed 40˚C, so a refreshing dip, with the sound of elephants not far off, is essential.

The swimming pool at Pel’s Post overlooks the Luvuvhu River

Chitwa Suite, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa: Picture this: you’re awoken at the crack of dawn with freshly brewed coffee, treated to a morning of leopard sightings and returned to the lodge for a sumptuous breakfast. The remaining hours of the day stretch ahead, begging to be filled with something relaxing yet extraordinary. As the sun bakes overhead, this is the perfect time to escape into the azure waters of your private swimming pool.

Kwessi Dunes Lodge, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia: In the vast desert wilderness, the pool at Kwessi Dunes Lodge is a veritable oasis with a view of the waterhole that draws in wildlife day and night.

Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi: This pool, perched above the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, is perfect for cooling off after a day out in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve. Surrounded by a riverine forest of marula, leadwood and star chestnut trees in a private concession, visitors will find true tranquillity in this piece of heaven.

Experience a true oasis in the Namibian desert at Kwessi Dunes Lodge; while away the hours in Chitwa Suite’s pool in Sabi Sands; take a cool poolside break at Mkulumadzi Lodge

Best for sundowners after a long day

Nothing can beat the magic of a sundowner on safari. But some spots offer just a little more magic than others – especially when you can float about, cocktail in hand.

Duba Plains Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana: Raised above the marshy Delta on decking made of recycled railway sleepers, each suite at Duba Plains features a private plunge pool – the perfect private spot to watch the sun go down and reflect on a day packed full of Okavango action.

Duba Plains Camp offers private pools for each suite

Bakuba Lodge, Ankilibe, Madagascar: After a day exploring the nearby mangrove beach in the fishing village of Ankilibe, situated in magnificent southern Madagascar, this picturesque pool at Bakuba Lodge will offer welcome relief. Or choose to spend the day out taking a trip on the Onilahy River, and head back to the lodge to settle down for a local-rum cocktail.

Makanyi Private Game Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: The graceful curves of the Makanyi Lodge swimming pool are perfectly in keeping with the rest of the lodge aesthetic – graceful, yet unobtrusive in its bushveld setting.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda: World-famous Murchison Falls National Park was one of the premier safari destinations in Africa and is once again a park on the rise. Nile Safari Lodge and its glorious swimming pool look out over a tranquil section of the Nile River from a raised riverbank.

Enjoy sundowners above the Nile River at Nile Safari Lodge; take a breather poolside at Makanyi Private Game Lodge; Experience a sunset like not other at Bakuba Lodge

Pumulani Lodge, Lake Malawi, Malawi: Gaze over the sunset flickering over the waters of Lake Malawi in this stunning infinity pool. Set on top of a hill in this fascinating part of the world, one could be forgiven for thinking they’ve found paradise. When you’re not treading water in the pool, head down to the lake-shore bar for cocktails on the beach.

Best for immersing yourself in your surroundings

Just when you thought your experience of these destinations could not get better… These pools will make you feel like you can reach out and touch the forest, ocean, mountains or river nearby.

Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, Kalagala Island, Nile River, Uganda: Watch the fierce rapids of the mighty Nile River come tumbling right past from the cool, calm comfort of the Lemala Wildwaters swimming pool. A visit to this remote and wild section of the Nile is like stepping back in time.

The Nile River churns past at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, offering one of the best pools one can experience

Denis Private Island, Seychelles: Does the idea of an infinity pool on a private tropical island seem like overkill? It isn’t, trust us. Rinse off the sea salt and float about in the shade, cocktail in hand.

Sundy Praia, Príncipe Island, São Tomé and Príncipe: Hidden in the veritable jungle, Sundy Praia is one of several historical plantations now overtaken by the wild forests of Príncipe. The crystal waters of the infinity pool merge perfectly with those of the Atlantic Ocean just beyond.

Track and Trail River Camp, bordering South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Spend whole afternoons in this pool with views across the Luangwa river, surrounded by the sounds of the bush. Track and Trail River Camp is located on a breath-taking spot overlooking the South Luangwa National Park.

Denis Private Island is picture-perfect; view the river below while poolside at Track and Trail River Camp; Sundy Praia’s pool is perched above the Atlantic Ocean

Jua Retreat, Zanzibar, Tanzania: Situated in the southeast of Zanzibar on the tip of the Michamvi peninsula, Jua Retreat’s beaches and immersion into nature promise an extraordinary experience. This pool, mere metres from the beach, offers the chance to soak up the sea air in the cool respite of one of Africa’s most beautiful pools.

Breathe in the sea air while having a refreshing dip at Jua Retreat

Best for true luxury

As if the food, service, surroundings and safari are not enough: these pools epitomise the luxury offered by their respective establishments – and are perfectly selfie-worthy to boot!

Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana: Jack’s Camp is resplendent in draped muslin and canvas – as is its pool. Shelter from the oppressive midday heat beneath the folds of the tent – a homage to a forgotten era of safari.

The iconic 1940s-style interiors at Jack’s Camp offer old-world luxury

Chikunto Safari Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Boutique luxury ecolodge Chikunto is located on the iconic ‘Big Bend’ site overlooking the Luangwa River in South Luangwa National Park in Luangwa Valley. The saltwater counter-current swimming pool overlooks a waterhole, providing an inviting space to cool off and relax, or even get some exercise – in between adventuring in the bush.

The Motse, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Kalahari, South Africa: From the landmark Korannaberg mountains to the grassy, red dunes rippling away to the horizon, this vast tract of Kalahari wilderness is one of the most atmospheric destinations on our list.

The Oyster Box, Umhlanga Beachfront, South Africa: The Oyster Box does nothing in half measures – unapologetic grandeur and lavish interiors adorn every corner of this exclusive luxury hotel. Naturally, the swimming pool would have to live up to the standard throughout the rest of the hotel, which it does in absolute style.

True romance at the Motse in Tswalu in one of Africa’s best pools; Chikunto Safari Lodge offers a boutique luxury ecolodge experience; the Oyster Box offers an iconic view of the Umhlanga lighthouse

THIS WEEK

Victoria Nile River Lemala Wildwaters — Fancy going off-radar on an island in the Victoria Nile River, Uganda? Go here for the best prices at Lemala Wildwaters plus many others.

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Tuskers hunted + best photos + 3 days in Vic Falls

A lucky few of you may be reading this newsletter from bed, the beach or while watching wildlife at a favourite waterhole – as a string of April holidays around the globe come as splendid respite. Perhaps you’re spending the temporary quietening of the mad rush dreaming up new travel exploits. Never fear, as teamAG’s wheels keep on turning!

I highly recommend drawing travel inspiration from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery below. I’m blown away by the diverse subject matter in this week’s selection, including a number of allegories on life and death from Chobe, Kruger and Sossusvlei, and even skateboarders “shredding the patriarchy” in Morocco. There are only two weeks left to get your entries in, so don’t miss out.

On a nauseating note, trophy hunters in Botswana have killed two of the largest elephants on the continent. The outcry on our social media pages at this news was immense, and with good reason. That an elephant hunt of any kind – never mind of a large tusker – could be allowed in an important elephant-migration corridor boggles the mind. Read more in our first story.

Knowing the size of animal populations in protected areas and reserves is at the heart of effective conservation strategies. Those in the know predict that one day, wildlife will be counted by drones and AI. Read how researchers are laying down the foundations for this in our second story.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Not all that long ago, we were just another species wandering the globe, subject to the same whims of weather and fortune as any other wild creature. So it is only natural that evidence of that time remains.

One such example is our relationship with honeyguides, which probably goes back to the time of Homo erectus. Certain members of this bird family will guide people to beehives so that they can feast on the spoils once the useful humans have broken open the hive. Seasoned travellers among you probably knew that, but did you know that in northern Tanzania, this guidance increases the Hazda tribe members’ bee-raiding success rate by 560%? The Boran people of East Africa and the Yao honey-hunters of Mozambique also have a unique call to attract the bird and begin the search.

The sad thing? As these traditional ways of life gradually disappear from human existence, the “guiding” instinct of the honeyguide will vanish entirely …

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunters-kill-two-of-africas-biggest-elephants-botswana/
TUSKERS HUNTED
Trophy hunters have killed two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/counting-animals-the-technology-helping-conservationists/
COUNTING ANIMALS
Counting wildlife in Africa’s massive protected wild areas can be a complicated process. Read how technology can help

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-10/
BEST PHOTOS
Check out this week’s Photographer of the Year entries. Only two weeks left to enter! Cash prizes and a Botswana safari are up for grabs

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

And now – for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.

Enjoy a quick break (or safari add-on) at Africa’s adventure capital. Victoria Falls is massively famous for many excellent reasons. Repeat visitors or newbies will enjoy chunks of wall-to-wall action and swathes of chill time staring in awe at the smoke that thunders. This is a 3-day quick fix that we can massage to suit your ideal time in heaven.

WATCH: 72 seconds of safari heaven to encourage you to get our APP and start planning your safaris (01:12). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 10

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Aerial abstract. A bird’s-eye view of Sossusvlei reveals life sprouting from the dunes. Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia. © Lucy Gemmill

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

The surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. Two massive bulls have been killed in the last few weeks in northern Botswana. The tusks of the two bulls each weigh more than 100 pounds and 90 pounds respectively – marking them as among Africa’s largest elephants.

The 100-pounder

The 100-pounder tusker is the largest elephant to be hunted in Botswana since 1996, according to contributors on AfricaHunting.com. The professional hunter involved is Leon Kachelhoffer and the elephant was hunted in the area known as NG13 (see map below). The location of the hunt is significant – refer to the closing discussion below.

Tusk dimensions:
Tusk 1: Weight 105.6 pounds (48kg) | length 238.76 cm (7,83 feet) | circumference 49.5cm (19.5 inches)
Tusk 2: Weight 95.7 pounds (43.5kg) | length 223.52 cm (7.33 feet) | circumference 49,5cm (19,5 inches)

Editorial note: We contacted Leon Kachelhoffer with the following request: “In the interests of transparency and accurate reporting, could you answer a few questions? We would like to clarify the nationality of your client, the total amount paid by the client and how that amount is distributed to the various suppliers and communities.” He responded by advising us that he is “a bit busy at the moment”. We will update this post if he does come through with the requested information. FURTHER UPDATE: Our follow up report is worth reading.

Trophy hunters — The 100-pounder tusker recently hunted in NG13, northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The hunted elephant’s tusks weighed 201.3 pounds combined. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The 90-pounder

The 90-pounder (estimate provided by AfricaHunting.com) was recently hunted by Johan Calitz Safaris, also in northern Botswana. At this stage, we have no further information about this elephant.

The big picture

Botswana hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, largely because of historically sound conservation practices and a dominant photographic tourism industry. Elephants migrate seasonally across much of southern Africa (particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area – KAZA), with Botswana and Zimbabwe hosting the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlement, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles – forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels. Read this research for more information about the impact of trophy hunting on elephant movements.

Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of tree cover.

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

Comment from our CEO Simon Espley:

“The 100-pounder hunt took place in NG13 – which is in the elephant migration corridor that KAZA hopes will help reduce human-elephant conflict. Angola and Zambia have large tracts of suitable elephant habitat and the KAZA strategy is to ensure that wildlife migration corridors remain free of obstacles and fear zones – so that elephants can again move freely between the KAZA countries and place less pressure on Botswana’s people and ecosystems. The location of this hunt pegs NG13 as a ‘fear zone’ (see research link above) for elephants – resulting in this particular hunt being damaging to Botswana’s wish to reduce human-elephant conflict and so improve the lives of its people.

The surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of the selection of large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of tuskers from the African landscape.”

Counting animals – the technology helping conservationists

Counting wild animals can be a complicated process, particularly when estimating populations in some of Africa’s massive protected wild areas. Yet policymakers and conservationists need to make the best possible decisions regarding the programmes put in place to conserve certain species, especially where limited budgets are available.

Consistent analysis is vital to monitoring population trends over the years and proactively identifying potential threats and problems, rather than attempting to rectify population declines after the fact. Now scientists working with Save the Elephants and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) have shown how technology can be used to make aerial population surveys more accurate.

Typically, aerial wildlife counts are considered a more accurate method for counting animals, particularly in open spaces and where larger animal species are concerned. The standard method is to fly systematic reconnaissance flights over transects or along a survey line, with a ‘rear-seat-observer’ counting the number of animals within the transect or within a specific distance of the line. These numbers are used as sample units, and the population is extrapolated from there using various statistical methods. The researchers compared this method to a newly-devised ‘oblique-camera-count’ over Tsavo National Park. They concluded that human counters missed approximately 14% of the elephants, 60% of the giraffe, 48% of the zebra and 66% of the larger antelope. This, in turn, suggests that aerial counts have resulted in significantly undercounted wildlife populations.

This is not as a result of any negligence or lack of expertise on the part of the counters – animals can be hidden under dense vegetation, or cryptically coloured. Safety concerns mean that the plane has to maintain a specific altitude and speed, so counters only have a maximum of 7 seconds to count a particular area. Added to that is the inevitable variability as a result of aircraft type, ground speed, altitude, sample strip width and observer fatigue and the fact that using a helicopter to allow for more thorough counting is prohibitively expensive.

While these limitations had long been recognised, this is the first study of its kind where continuous oblique imagery (more suited to areas where animals might be resting under trees than imagery taken from directly overhead) was acquired over the complex terrestrial environments in Africa. Tsavo was chosen because wildlife counts had been planned for that period but it also presented challenges due to high ambient temperatures, strong winds and turbulence. The cameras were mounted to mimic the viewing perspective of the human counters. The images were later analysed by a team of interpreters who methodically worked through and enlarged thousands of images to identify and count animals.

At this stage, the authors of the study acknowledge that this process of image interpretation is labour intensive, as the interpreters went through over 200 images a day for nine months. Thus, they explain that this is just the starting point in the move towards more automated counting by machine learning where, at the very least, a software program can flag the potential presence of an animal. As technology improves, so will the ability to conduct aerial counts more accurately and cost-effectively.

As Save the Elephants has previously explained in an annual report, ever-changing technology has enormous implications for the conservation sphere. From specialised recognition software, scientists have already developed algorithms that recognise individual zebras and leopards. This information can only serve those tasked with protecting wilderness areas and the animals that call them home. Says Frank Pope, CEO of Save the Elephants: “Counting wildlife is critical for management but is expensive and surprisingly hard. Modern cameras mounted on aircraft can greatly improve accuracy, but counting the wildlife in the hundreds of thousands of images that result is impractical. Artificial intelligence holds the key to processing the images, and making these surveys cheaper as well as more precise. One day wildlife will be counted by drones and AI – what we’re doing is laying the foundations for that future.”

Resources

The full study can be accessed here: “Comparing an automated high-definition oblique camera system to rear-seat-observers in a wildlife survey in Tsavo, Kenya: Taking multi-species aerial counts to the next level”, Lambrey, R., Pope, F., Shadrack, N., et al, (2020), Biological Conservation

The Save the Elephants annual report referenced can be accessed here.

THIS WEEK

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Moremi glamping + best pics + tiger farming + Chobe developments

So we all SURVIVED one overpaid Hollywood narcissist (OHN) bitch-slapping another OHN on stage while a coterie of OHN’s gawked and then applauded. Moving on swiftly.

The Botswana government is trying to force-feed its good people a very bitter lemon. Our third story below is a classic case of political manoeuvring at the cost of the environment and an already established economy. That the Batswana need FAR MORE direct involvement in the tourism industry is not in doubt – that has to happen. But killing the goose that lays the golden eggs is short-sighted and naive. Time will reveal the shady dealings and identity of the predetermined beneficiaries. Walks away shaking his head …

And finally, from the maladroit to the RIDICULOUS, there is this. Lab-grown lion and tiger meat for sale. Laugh or cry – your choice

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The mornings have turned crisp and the leaves are yellowing here in a fresh Autumn Johannesburg. To stay warm, I’m turning my attention to toastier destinations. This week we explore the wonders of a mobile glamping safari in Moremi Game Reserve – an AG expedition that’s not to be missed. Check out our second story.

The Week 9 entrants to Photographer of the Year have also been out and about in the African sun – and they’ve brought back incredible, award-worthy images. This week’s gallery is filled with rare species, otherworldly treescapes, and some interesting creatures in some, ahem, passionate positions. Check these out below.

Our third story focuses on Botswana’s dubious call for tenders for 8 new lodges in Chobe NP. We’re also delving into the stark reality of South Africa’s big-cat farming industry. Illegal tiger and lion breeding is still rampant in the country, despite Barbara Creecy announcing plans for a complete ban on the captive-lion industry. See how this illegal trade threatens wild populations of these animals across the world in our final story below.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

It is no secret that our relationship with alcohol goes back a very long way. As far back as there have been people, they have been finding new and inventive ways to ferment things. In many countries, indulgence in the Bacchanalian delights has translated into an enormous public health concern.

But did you know that this love of liquor may well link to our evolutionary history? The theory is (appropriately) called the “drunken monkey” hypothesis and suggests that the attraction has its roots in early dietary requirements. Scientists recently proved that spider monkeys in Panama prefer fruits with a higher ethanol content – quite possibly because they can metabolize the alcohol and harness additional calories. So, in theory, people have a penchant for booze because our early, fruit-eating ancestors derived nutritional rewards from it. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective), we are no longer limited to the 2% alcohol content of slightly “off” fruit, hence people making monkeys of themselves …

Story 1
BEST PHOTOS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-9/
Award-worthy images of the African continent in our Week 9 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Get your entries in now!

Story 2
MOREMI MAGIC
https://africageographic.com/stories/moremi-bucket-list-mobile-safari/
Explore Moremi on a mobile glamping safari with expert guides: 5 spots open in AG’s May expedition

Story 3
NEW CHOBE DEVELOPMENTS
https://africageographic.com/stories/botswana-to-develop-8-new-lodges-on-chobe-riverfront/
Botswana’s plans for eight new lodges in Chobe NP, despite recommendations and regulations against developments, have angered environmentalists

Story 4
TIGER FARMING
https://africageographic.com/stories/big-cat-farming-and-illegal-tiger-trade-in-south-africa/
South Africa’s illegal tiger trade and farming of other big cats threaten the wild populations of these animals across the world

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Come get it while it’s still warm!
A last-minute cancellation means that we can offer a VERY SPECIAL price for this dream glamping safari in late May. Six days in intoxicating Khwai and Moremi for US$2,380 per person is a steal (5 places available). There is also one seat left for a late April departure for US$2,215. Fully-catered mobile safaris that will reboot your life. For further info also refer to our story above.

And, for the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days

WATCH: South Africa’s vervet monkeys survive in urban spaces (03:31). Click here to watch

Botswana to develop 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront?

The decision by the Botswana government to call for tenders for the development of eight lodges of 75 beds each on the Chobe Riverfront within Chobe National Park (CNP) has raised concerns amongst stakeholders and environmentalists.

This process seems to be going ahead, despite stipulations in the current gazetted CNP management plans that no new lodge developments should take place within the park. Antagonists are questioning the Botswana government’s commitment to wildlife conservation and raise concerns that this tender process is being fast-tracked via allegedly illegal and unconstitutional means.

The government also appears to have disregarded existing USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review recommendations that no further lodges be developed within the national park. In this regard, the recently edited draft CNP Management Plan (which has not yet been gazetted) goes against advice by consultants as evidenced by the existing management plan.

The country’s Ministry of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism recently invited citizen-owned companies and consortiums to submit ‘expressions of interest’ to lease eight lodge sites within an area on the Chobe Riverfront , with little notice provided and reportedly without following due process – threatening the survival of Chobe National Park. The eight lodge sites measure three hectares each along the Chobe River and are spaced two kilometres apart. Tender processes for three additional lodge sites (totalling 11) proposed in the updated draft management plan – in the Madamboza and Ngwezumba Medium Intensity Use zones – have not yet been initiated.

The Ministry’s invitation sent earlier this year for Expressions of Interest (EOI) called for parties to submit ‘Management Plans’ related to the sites in question – for the development and operation of tourism sites lease periods of fifty years. Applicants were expected to attend a compulsory site visit to proposed sites on 3 March of this year, and EOI applications were due on 21 March. No affected entities or stakeholders were given the opportunity to consult and discuss the proposed development of lodges before the EOI invitation was published.

Various stakeholders, including public and private corporates, SMMEs, owner-operated establishments, NGOs and private citizens (under the name Concerned Stakeholders Chobe District) filed a formal opposition to these development plans in a Letter of Objection on 7 March. Various concerns were raised by the parties, stating that the “clandestine” manner in which government rushed the tender process raises suspicions of illegal and perhaps even unconstitutional conduct by the Ministry.

“The rushed time frame offered on that brief public notification to participate in the EOI was unrealistic and provides ample speculation to the legality and inclusiveness of the process,” states the Letter of Objection. “It begs the question, had select participants already been established/offered the chance to tender before the all-too-brief public notice was made?”

Botswana to develope 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront — Stakeholders opposing the new Chobe NP lodge sites fear overdevelopment could threaten the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and existing tourism operations.

Botswana’s government appears to be fast-tracking the initial allocation of land in order to speed up the allocation of the sites and allocation of land to empower Batswana. This was related during a session of Parliament at the end of March by the Minister of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism, Philda Kereng, who stated that the management plan had been updated with technical advice and in fact showed that up to 11 lodge developments could be established on the Chobe Riverfront. “The sites that could be built there are 11 [sic] but we are going for eight because we don’t want high traffic there,” she said. Furthermore, Kereng stated that bid winners would conduct EIAs and then incorporate these into their specific plans for the sites.

This is a complete about-turn by the government, which in recent years (under different administration) rejected proposals for development within the CNP Riverfront, including for the establishment of an elephant orphan sanctuary, the construction of a communications tower by Botswana’s telecommunications regulator and a lodge proposed by the Botswana Defence Force (BDF) Welfare Trust Fund. At the time, the Department of Environmental Affairs stated no further development of lodges within the CNP should be considered as the environmental and long-term economic impacts of such developments far outweigh any perceived short-term economic benefits. In the 2017 rejection of the BDF’s proposed lodge, the Department stated the increase in the carrying capacity of the area created by one new lodge on the Chobe Riverfront would “significantly put pressure on the environment, the natural resources and the Chobe River front [sic] area.” Only five years later, the government is pushing for the development of eight lodges in this area.

In a further twist, consultants to the USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review noted with concern that updated versions of the Management Plans in question appear to have been altered after they signed off on their approvals.

Consultant Lin Cassidy requested that the names of the USAID-funded team be removed from the latest approved plans, stating “we have learned that versions of [these] management plans…. that we submitted to the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) and which were accepted and approved by DWNP, may have been changed since our submission and completion of our contract.”

The Hospitality and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB) has added its voice to those in opposition to the developments, stating these will have a “very significant impact” on the Chobe Riverfront by increasing congestion and environmental pollution, restricting animal movement and “placing increased pressure on already threatened species such as the Chobe bushbuck” – especially during the lodge construction process. Once lodges are up and running, the maximum 75 beds for each facility would potentially mean 600 more people in the park at peak times – in addition to support staff for each lodge.

While the stakeholders are not in opposition to economic upliftment and the creation of employment opportunities, there are major concerns that the proposed developments will threaten the environmental wellbeing of the national park, and that the tender process has been unconstitutional. The proposed developments could contribute to human-wildlife conflict, threatening animal populations that are already contending with encroaching agricultural developments and human settlements. The new lodges will result in the loss of 8km of wildlife corridors and up to 8km of wildlife-viewing roads within an already limited road network. “The impact of increasing an already high-traffic volume by an estimated minimum of 50 game viewing vehicles will be devastating to the quality of the tourist experience and will certainly change wildlife behaviour and distribution,” states the Letter of Objection. “The myriad environmental impacts seem not to have been considered at all.”

The letter raises concerns that expansion of these lodge sites, which are bounded by the main road to the south and annually flooded plains to the north, can only occur laterally east and west, consuming more river frontage and exacerbating the degradation of the ecosystem.

Further objections to the tender process have been raised by young tourism entrepreneurs, who say the specifications, which require companies to own existing tourism licences, favour established businesses and do not support the creation of opportunities for the youth of Botswana, reports Mmegi Online.

“Our interpretation is that only companies that are operational and own a tourism-related business are favoured,” reads a complaint by Eco Tours director, Othusitse Ranko. “It is our considered view that the above is discriminating to individuals and companies, especially the youth who haven’t had an opportunity before to own and operate tourism-related facilities and who by default won’t have the required tourism licence.”

Stakeholders opposing the developments are in agreement that the oversaturation of the market by businesses is unsustainable and could lead to all-round collapse – of both the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and of existing tourism operations within CNP. “The jewel of Botswana requires protection,” read the objection by HATAB, “and thus we encourage our government, developmental and environmental partners to protect our parks for the benefit of our posterity.”

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 9

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Moremi: bucket-list mobile safari

If the thought of glamping in Botswana’s Big 5 wilderness appeals to your sense of freedom and adventure, you may be ticking a magical Moremi safari off your bucket list before you know it. Moremi Game Reserve is in the renowned Okavango Delta. We are offering an extraordinary fully-catered mobile safari expedition to Moremi with a touch of pampering and minimal effort on your part – only five spots are open in our upcoming May expedition. You could soon find yourself gliding through the waters of the Okavango on a mokoro, indulging in the local knowledge of an expert guide who’ll leave no stone unturned to unlock Moremi’s secrets, and falling asleep to the sounds of lion roars and hyena cackles piercing the darkness. Why settle for five stars when you can have five million?

Read more about this incredibly priced special offer departing in May this year. This is a rare opportunity to experience this epic adventure at an exceptional price.

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari — Big 5 sightings abound in Moremi

No-fuss mobile camping adventure

This experience is designed for adventurers longing to explore Botswana’s most pristine and wild areas – from Moremi’s Xaxanaka and 3rd Bridge areas to magnificent Khwai and the eastern regions of the Okavango Delta – without the hassle. A hospitality team takes care of all the practicalities, from setting up and breaking camp in Meru-style tents at every destination, cooking three delicious meals a day over an open fire and expert guiding while exploring the wilderness. The accommodation in spacious mobile canvas tents includes beds with linen and fleece blankets, en-suite bucket showers, comfortable bush toilets, open kitchen, mess area, and campfire hearth.

In between various day-time adventures and game drives, safari-goers can float along the waters of the Delta on a mokoro, which provides the opportunity to silently approach unsuspecting wildlife. Witnessing an elephant splashing about in the water, sneaking up on otters or viewing hippos and crocodiles at eye level is a profound experience, both hypnotic and exhilarating.

After mornings and afternoons spent ambling through the bushveld in the true spirit of African adventure, guests arrive back at camp for sundowners around the fire (don’t wander too far – lest you stumble upon a curious lion or hyena). Evenings are spent stargazing while staying warm around the campfire as dinner is prepared by hosts.

Moremi’s pristine wilderness

The fascinating habitats of the Okavango Delta make for a safari paradise. Exploring this with your group’s safari vehicle and local guide with in-depth knowledge of the area means the opportunity to come face to face with the Big 5, hyena, wild dog, cheetah, and the more scarce but equally desirable creatures such as aardwolf and pangolin (which do require a dash of good luck). There is a great deal of freedom when on safari in this area – night drives, walking safaris, and even off-roading are allowed. Birding is prolific, with over 400 species recorded, including Pel’s fishing owl, coppery-tailed coucal and iconic colonies of seasonal carmine bee-eaters.

Unwind through the rhythm of the wild

When AG CEO Simon Espley returned from this bucket-list adventure, his time on this bushveld escape had him returning infinitely nourished. “There’s a rhythm to this mobile safari that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind,” he says. “Time takes on a different meaning, perhaps because you have more of it. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars and owls. You’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you.”

Want to join this epic safari? Guests can book an entire mobile expedition for family and friends or join an existing expedition. Read more or book here.

Big cat farming and the illegal tiger trade in South Africa

South African farmers illegally breed tigers and other big cats for sale into the luxury goods and traditional medicine markets. This illegal tiger trade and associated big cat farming threatens the wild populations of these animals across the world, as illegal networks launder wild-poached and captive-bred animals and their body parts.

This and other revelations are contained in a new report compiled by the South African office of animal-welfare organisation FOUR PAWS. Note that in mid-2021, South Africa’s Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment (DFFE), Barbara Creecy, announced plans for a complete ban on the controversial captive-lion breeding industry – but despite that, the industry remains firmly in place.

The global captive tiger population is three times the size of the remaining wild population

Other big cats bred and trophy hunted in South Africa for export include lions, leopards and jaguars. The report focuses on the captive-tiger industry in South Africa, but most issues raised also impact the other big cat species.

This commercial trade in tiger parts flouts agreements set out by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) that state “tigers should not be bred for trade in their parts and derivatives.” Report author Kieran Harkin says: “It is clear that South Africa is overtly allowing tigers and other big cats to be intensively bred for commercial trade in their body parts. This is unacceptable as the farming of tigers for commercial trade has detrimental effects on wild tiger populations. South Africa is playing a significant role in contributing to the decline of a species that is non-native to Africa. They need to shut down this industry to help reverse the decline of all big cats and not just the tiger.”

“The lack of effective regulations for species like tigers combined with the existence of a legal captive-lion industry and bone trade, has allowed a legal industry to flourish, whilst also acting as a conduit for an illegal trade,” says Fiona Miles, Director of FOUR PAWS in South Africa.

The report ultimately calls for South Africa to end its big-cat industry and reverse its role as an exporter of big cats and their parts. This would give the relevant enforcement authorities a better chance to tackle the illegal trade within and from South Africa.

A lack of effective regulations or minimum conditions for species like tigers and lions has allowed a legal industry to flourish

Notable extractions from the report

Worldwide, there are an estimated three times as many tigers in captivity (+/- 12,600) as there are in the wild (4,400).
The hunting and killing of tigers is permitted in all nine South African provinces.
The regulations relating to the keeping, breeding, killing, and trading of tigers are so different between the nine South African provinces as to make effective management and record-keeping impossible.
Most live tigers exported went to Vietnam, China and Bangladesh.

The largest number of tigers exported from South Africa was to zoos. The number-one importer of tigers from South Africa is China. *© FOUR PAWS*

The exact number of captive tigers in South Africa is not known. Requests to the provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored, replied to in part or confusing/inaccurate. Similarly, the volume of live tigers and tiger parts traded is unknown.
A study of the CITES Trade Database reveals that 359 live tigers and 93 tiger ‘trophies’ were exported from South Africa between 2011 and 2020. In addition, 34 items exported were labelled as code ‘T’ (for commercial purposes) – a direct contravention of CITES Decision 14.69.
There are no known tiger zoos or captive breeding facilities that introduce tigers into the wild or maintain studbooks to maintain genetic diversity. This is also a contravention of Cites Decision 14.69, which stipulates that the breeding of captive tigers is restricted to a ‘level supportive only to wild tigers.’
CITES records in Egypt indicate that 15 live tigers were imported from South Africa, yet South African records indicate only 4 live tigers exported to Egypt. These discrepancies in CITES records are commonplace and ensure that proper analysis of the scale and nature of trade in wild species and their parts is impossible.
Lions: South Africa exported 27,418 lions and lion parts between 2011 and 2020 – the majority of which were captive-bred.
Leopards: South Africa exported 61 live leopards (of which 48 were captive-bred), 807 leopard ‘trophies’ and 374 skulls during 2011 and 2020.
Big cats bred in South Africa and exported live are facilitating the growth of big cat breeding operations throughout the world.

Requests by FOUR PAWS to provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored or inaccurate. © *FOUR PAWS*

Recommendations from the report on the lion and tiger trade

As the legal industry has made the tiger trade and trafficking of lion parts easier, the report makes the following recommendations to minimise the negative effects of the intensive tiger- and lion- breeding industry:

South Africa should end the commercial breeding of all big cats and the export and commercial trade in live animals and parts.
A clause should be introduced whereby current owners can keep their living animals but must stop all breeding and allow the animals to see out their lives naturally – with all welfare needs met.
Detection and law enforcement efforts around smuggling should be increased at South Africa’s entry and exit points.
Awareness around the modus operandi of wildlife trafficking syndicates should be increased amongst key stakeholders.
The majority of the 27,418 exported lions and lion parts from South Africa between 2011 and 2020 were captive-bred

Conclusion

South Africa has become a haven for the illicit big-cat breeding industry. It is clear from this report that nobody knows how many big cats are being kept in South Africa or the volume and nature of illegal and legal trade – least of all the relevant authorities required by law to control the industry and maintain accurate records. The burgeoning trade encourages illegal operations and contributes to the demise of wild big-cat populations. Neither international nor South African authorities effectively control the lion or tiger trade, or reign in the burgeoning illicit trade.

Resources

Full report: Harkin, K. & Locke, S. 2022. Year of the tiger? Big cat farming in South Africa: the need for international action. FOUR PAWS.

Read more on the ban of the captive lion industry in South Africa.

Read more on FOUR PAWS and their work in South Africa.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 01 April 2022

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Awesome photos + talking elephants + Africa’s jackals

The great continent is well and truly open for travel, with restrictions easing up around borders every week. I’m bursting with bliss to see our AG community buzzing with trip plans – plotting voyages to the shores of Lake Kariba, prepping for mountain gorilla treks in Uganda and lacing up boots for walking safaris in Greater Kruger. Our forum is alive with requests for travel and tipping advice, and teamAG’s safari experts are aglow with ideas and inspiration.

Our first story below is a handy guide on the rare and tasty craft beers our travellers can order on their African journeys. We’ve skipped the mass-produced regulars in favour of the special flavours you’ll find nowhere else in the world. I’m sure many of you will soon be toasting your safaris along the Okavango River or watching the sun go down over the Namib Desert with a cold one in hand.

We’re also celebrating the continent’s most underestimated carnivores – daring and endearing jackals. Read our second story to see why they are a favourite for us.

There is only one month left to get your entries in for Photographer of the Year. The extraordinary pics keep rolling in: see our third story to see which images made the cut this week.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Once a year, on April Fool’s Day, a popular social media site shares a crudely manipulated image of wildlife doing something crazy. A few years ago, their chosen joke was a picture of an elephant carrying a lion cub. The caption explained that the mother lioness was tired, and the elephant, in the spirit of peace and love, opted to help her out. The picture went viral, with thousands of comments about how we could learn a thing or two from animals—a perfect example of how people are at their most gullible when they want to believe. And people want to believe that wildlife behaves like children’s stories.

On that, here’s an extraordinary fact that sounds a lot like a hoax (but isn’t). Did you know that there is an elephant in captivity in Korea believed to be capable of mimicking human speech? Koshik can “say” five words in Korean: “hello”, “sit”, “lie down”, “no” and “good”. We are still a long way from knowing everything about elephants’ capabilities. (But we do know they don’t go around helping lion cubs across the road…)

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/6-beers-to-order-on-safari/
BEST BEERS
Our guide to the 6 best locally brewed beers from top-class breweries to enjoy on your African safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/jackals-of-africa-consummate-survivors/
AFRICA’S JACKALS
Jackals are expert opportunists and the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-8/
BEST PICS
Our selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 8 is out now

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

6 ways to enjoy the magnificent MAASAI MARA & SERENGETI

Migration season – river crossings – Maasai Mara and Serengeti
Migration season – babies and predators
Green season – avoid the crowds
Take the family – activities for kids
Special offer – Maasai Mara & Samburu for 7 days
Photographers – expert guides + modified vehicle

WATCH: Anatomy of a bribe. A riveting exposé by Al Jazeera’s Investigative Unit into corruption in the Namibian fishing industry. This is a story of how foreign companies plunder Africa’s natural resources. (51:11). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 8

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

6 beers to order on safari

What better way to celebrate a successful safari than to crack open a cold one at the end of a long hot day, take that first refreshing sip and stare at the majesty of Africa around you? For almost as long as there have been people, they have been brewing beer. Across cultures and continents, the bacchanalian discovery of the delicious and intoxicating product of fermented cereals became ingrained in everyday life.

Like the rest of the world, Africa has a long-standing and merry history of brewing beer – both commercially and traditionally. Preparing (and consuming) indigenous beers is still a part of life, especially in rural areas and during customary celebrations. For many tribes, the rituals involved vary depending on specific events and require different vessels and formalities for each. Umqombothi, chibuku, changa’aa, khadi, hydromel… Africa is awash with distinctive traditional brews – some of which are more meal than drink!

While beer enthusiasts may protest in horror, the truth is that the basic beer recipe is not a complex one: some malted barley here, a handful of hops there, plenty of water and enough yeast to get the party started. However, brewers in Africa rely upon sorghum and maize and flavour the product with everything from fruits and flowers to roots and honey. These local techniques have been gradually incorporated in commercial, craft and boutique brewing practices to create flavours unique to each country.

Have a look at our list of unusual favourites below to guide your decision.

6 best beers to order on safari — Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s zero-alcohol Hero Original; the Okavango Craft Brewery’s Delta Lager; The Big Five Brewery’s Temstout; Namib Dunes Craft Brewery’s Irish Red; Tiemann Beer’s Wild Dog Shempa Ale; and Twiga Brewery’s Blonde Ale

1. ‘Delta Lager’ from the Okavango Craft Brewery, Botswana

The Okavango Craft Brewery sources their millet from the small-scale farmers around the Okavango Delta – at premium prices. In partnership with the local NGO Ecoexist, the aim is to reward local communities for their efforts to coexist with elephants and stimulate local economies while producing the perfect quality beer to toast your safari in the Delta. Be sure to order one when on your next adventure in this iconic, pristine wetland system.

2. Wild Dog Shempa Ale from Tiemann Beer, Zambia

From the vats of Zambia’s first craft beer producers, the Wild Dog range from Tiemann Beer has taken the country by storm. Zambia is famous for its walking safaris, and the light, flavourful ale is the perfect end-of-day beverage to gulp down while soaking tired feet in the Luangwa River. When next you head to the vast Zambian wilderness playground in search of an authentic, unfussy safari experience on foot, be sure to order a Shempa Ale.

3. Irish Red from Namib Dunes Craft Brewery, Namibia

Beer is to desert as oxpecker is to buffalo: the perfect pair. Beer brewing is a source of national pride in Namibia, and in keeping with this proud tradition, Namib Dunes Craft Brewery has produced some of the best beers for watching the sun go down over the red dunes of the Namib Desert.

4. Twiga Blonde Ale from Twiga Brewery, Tanzania

Operating from the green slopes of Mount Meru in Arusha, Twiga Brewery is a small, independent operation offering hand-crafted beverages of the highest international standard and craftsmanship. As the wildebeest and zebra gallop across the savannah during the Great Migration, take a moment to celebrate a day of extraordinary sightings while sipping on the Twiga Blonde Ale.

Crack open a cold one while watching the Great Migration; refresh while overlooking the Namib Desert; or sip on an ale at the edge of the Luangwa River

5. Temstout from The Big Five Breweries, Kenya

From one of the top breweries in Kenya, The Big Five Breweries, this full-bodied beer carries a hint of dark chocolate and, of course, a strong coffee flavour from a country that produced some of the best coffee in the world. Whether heading to the magical Maasai Mara, or to spot tuskers in Tsavo or Amboseli National Parks be sure to keep an eye out for this beer on the menu.

6. Hero Original from Devil’s Peak Beer Company, South Africa

Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s Hero Original presents the ideal solution for those who want to enjoy the crisp taste of a beer from one of South Africa’s premier craft breweries, minus the alcohol. Whether saluting the day surrounded by the magnificent vistas of Cape Town or lounging away in the heat of a South African bushveld afternoon, you can refresh with the non-alcoholic Hero range.

So, what should your order be? Well, for a start, forgo the more commercial brands and take a chance on something more distinctively African.

Want to sample these tasty beers on safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Sip on your favourite African beer at the bery best sundowner spots.

Is beer o’clock the best time of the day? Have a look at our guide to the highs and lows of the safari day.

Did we miss something? Tell us about your safari beer of choice by commenting below.

Jackals of Africa – consummate survivors

A lion’s roar or hyena’s whoop are considered “iconic”. But the song of the jackal is one of the wild’s most hauntingly beautiful sounds, easily on par with spine-tingling wolf howls in other parts of the world. As dusk descends, the haunting lupine melody of the continent’s most underestimated carnivore cuts through the air and raises goosebumps on the skin.

The basics

Nearly anyone on safari is likely to encounter a jackal at some point, often around a lion kill and very seldom at the centre of attention. They are expert opportunists and masterful lurkers with iron-clad stomachs capable of handling everything from rotten carcasses to berries and even lion faeces. As underappreciated species go, jackals are very close to the top of the African safari list. Without the rarity factor, they are generally overlooked or dismissed. This is unfortunate as they are fascinating, intelligent, social and, on occasion, clownish creatures. Besides, any animal that dares to snatch the scraps out from beneath a hungry lion’s nose should be entitled to automatic respect. They are also skilful hunters, particularly the black-backed variety.

Not to be confused with foxes (of which there are several species in Africa, learn more about them here), jackals are taller and stockier than the various members of the Vulpes genus, with longer, more obviously wolf-like facial features. There are two species in Africa – the black-backed and side-striped jackal. Another species, the golden jackal, inhabits parts of southern Europe and Asia. As the name indicates, the black-backed jackal can be distinguished by the saddle of black (with white patterns) that runs across the centre of the back, while the stripe of the side-stripped jackal is often indistinct.

Jackal and elephant — A black-backed jackal on the prowl near Kasane Forest, Botswana

The side-striped has the more extensive range of the two species and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. They are notably absent in the more arid areas of the southwestern part of Southern Africa, where black-backed jackals reign throughout most of South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. Where the two species do overlap (as they do across much of East Africa), the black-backed jackal seems to dominate, despite being the smaller of the two. This has often been connected to the observation that black-backed jackals appear to hunt more frequently (and hunt bigger prey) than their side-striped cousins. However, whether this is true across all populations and habitat types has yet to be confirmed.

These differences aside, there are several species similarities. Both jackals are omnivorous, with plant matter accounting for over 50% of their diet in some places. They are also both monogamous and territorial.

Jackals of Africa — A side-striped jackal spotted in the Okavango Delta

Quick facts

	Black-Backed Jackal	Side-Striped Jackal
Mass	6-13kg	6.5-14kg
Shoulder height	38-48cm	35-50cm
Social Structure	Monogamous, small family groups	Monogamous, small family groups
Gestation	Just over two months	Just over two months
Number of pups	One to nine pups	Three to six pups

The lifelong couple

As they are monogamous, there is minimal sexual dimorphism between male and female jackals. The bond between mated pairs is profound and may last for several years – usually the duration of their lifespan. The couples are almost inseparable and cooperate in virtually every aspect of their joint lives. This includes foraging and, on occasion, hunting cooperatively to bring down larger prey. In East Africa, jackals are renowned for a tendency to target Thomson’s gazelle fawns. One member of the duo (or small family) will fend off the spirited defence of the mother while the other lunges for the fawn. There is even anecdotal evidence of jackals using a “fascination display” to lure prey or distract larger predators from their meals. They lie down and squirm comically, attracting curious prey close enough to grab or infuriating a predator to the point that it temporarily forsakes its kill, only for the jackal to leap up and snatch a bite.

The breeding pair will also join forces to defend territories against other jackals, and observational research shows that the death of one partner has dire consequences for the survivor, usually involving the loss of territory and subsequent displacement. Territorial boundaries are ignored when a large carcass is present, and not even the pair’s combined efforts are sufficient to deter trespassers.

Playing happy families

A successful couple will raise several litters of puppies throughout their lives, some of which will stay on to help their parents with the subsequent litter before dispersing. The pups are born in a den, which is usually an abandoned aardvark or warthog tunnel, but the female may excavate the tunnel herself. She remains with the helpless pups for up to three weeks or longer until they emerge above ground on wobbly legs. During this time, the male and any older offspring will forage for her and regurgitate food upon their return. As the pups grow and begin to explore, she will join forces with the rest of her family to provide for their voracious appetites. All family members will bravely defend the pups against predators several times their size, snapping and snarling at hyenas or dashing in front of lions to draw them away from the vulnerable puppies. Naturally, this means that having older offspring “helpers” has a direct bearing on pup survival, particularly for larger litters.

Jackal pups transform from fluffballs into competent predators within a few short months

The tiny pups rapidly transform from cuddly fluffballs to competent predators, and they are already able to hunt for themselves (albeit somewhat unsuccessfully at times) at six months old. They remain with their parents for another two months, after which most will disperse, but some will stay behind as helpers. Research shows that the dominance hierarchy between siblings, particularly pronounced in black-backed jackals, may well play a role in determining which individuals decide to stick around.

A wolf in jackal’s clothing

In 2015, the scientific community was rocked (well, relatively) by the revelation that Africa was, in fact, home to two jackal species, not three as previously believed. The third member – now known as the African wolf – had diverged from the Asian golden jackals well over a million years ago.

Later research revealed that it is a genetically admixed canid with both grey and Ethiopian wolf ancestors. The African wolf (Canis lupaster) looks and behaves exactly like a jackal, showing how classification based on morphology or behaviour alone can be distinctly deceptive.

Advancements in genetic analysis have contributed significantly to the reclassification of many supposedly related species across several prominent mammal families, including the canids. DNA analysis from several studies shows that both the black-backed and side-striped jackals are the basal members of the wolf-like clade. In other words, they diverged very early on and are genetically distinct from the other members like the wolf and coyote (and domestic dog). As such, the IUCN Canid Specialist Group recently recommended that their scientific genus be designated as Lupulella, rather than Canis. The recommended scientific name for the black-backed jackal is Lupulella mesomelas, while that of the side-striped jackal is Lupulella adusta.

Jackals and people

Since the jackal-headed Anubis (okay, so technically, he was an African wolf) first weighed the hearts of the dead, and possibly long before, jackals have played a role in the mythology of many different cultures. In many, they are the bad guy, a cunning trickster, or a sorcerer capable of shape-shifting. In Khoikhoi legends, many of the stories involve the jackal outwitting or betraying the lion. Some of these beliefs persist today, and jackal body parts and pelts are used in traditional medicine by tribes throughout Africa.

Today, however, their biggest threat comes from conflict with farmers, especially those with smaller livestock animals – as jackals will readily hunt lambs. For several centuries, jackals were seen as vermin, and various lethal methods were employed to rid the farms of their presence. Yet, as bigger wildlife species were gradually eradicated from farmlands throughout history, jackals remained, despite being killed in large numbers. Fortunately, today, educational programmes have begun to change attitudes towards the jackals and non-lethal (and more effective) techniques such as guard dogs are used to ensure livestock safety. Despite being persecuted for centuries, jackal numbers are believed to be stable and healthy populations persist across most of their natural range.

Jackal scavenger — An opportunistic black-backed jackal taking a chance

Ultimate survivors

For the most part, the human brain is not particularly well designed to grasp the timescale of evolution. It’s a bit like understanding the size of the universe – immense but in a nonspecific way. Yet for aeons, nature has had time to play with different recipes for survival, rejecting failed attempts without mercy and casually throwing environmental curveballs into the mix. Over the years, these forces have shaped teeth, lengthened and fused tarsals and carpals, stretched out trunks, created opposable thumbs and designed wildlife perfectly adapted for their chosen environment and competitors.

Out of this melee, the continent’s two jackal species emerged relatively early on compared to the other dog family members. From then on, these clever little canids have proved repeatedly that they are the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld and should be appreciated as such.

Resources

Browse pics from a fantastic black-backed jackals vs honey badgers sighting.

Enjoy this video of two jackals serenading each other (and their neighbours).

Comment – teamAG – Friday 25 March 2022

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Brilliant pics + elephant auction + Katavi + ultimate Mara safari

Rant alert!

Recently we published our thoughts on the 6 best places to see painted wolves (wild dogs). Of course, you may have suggestions on how to improve on this list – which are always welcome. But here’s the thing: On our Facebook page, every comment focussed on our choice of name for Lycaon pictus – some so AGGRESSIVE that we hid the comments. Not one person on Facebook responded to the advice provided in our story. Not one. Juxtapose that with the comments in our app – every comment was relevant to the topic at hand. This is why we built the app – for relevant, CONSTRUCTIVE discussions. Plus, of course, to find the best prices at Africa’s most authentic camps & lodges. And to make secure donations to conservation projects that make a difference at ground level.

I am so over how social media has become a cesspit of trolls, scams and manipulative algorithms. Moving on. Please GET OUR APP (there is also a desktop version) by scrolling to the prompts below.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Photographer of the Year is picking up steam! With every selection, it becomes harder to narrow down entries to a choice few. Don’t miss our epic Week 7 gallery below.

And if the entries are not enough to inspire longing for adventure, our story on Katavi National Park – Tanzania’s wildest secret – will. This guide to an electrifying safari nirvana, teeming with herds in the dry season, will have you packing your bags.

We’re moving with giants this week, and delving into the challenges of human-elephant conflict. In our third story below, read how beloved super tusker Tolstoy was saved last week after meeting the wrong end of a spear.

Majestic elephants conjure intense emotion in us. It’s no wonder Namibia’s controversial elephant auction has sparked debate. The first captured elephants have now entered the murky muddle of international wildlife trade. Our last editorial below, by conservationist Gail Thomson, is the most balanced view I have read on the matter to date, and is not to be missed.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that we share around 96% of our genome with chimpanzees? Here’s another fun fact – that number is almost meaningless unless you happen to have a relatively comprehensive understanding of the science of DNA. The number jumps around from 96% to 99% for a start, depending on which similarity is measured. Chromosomes, genes, proteins, gene expression, mutations – it all gets very complicated!

Yes, we share many of our genetic building blocks with our closest relatives. But roughly 35 million differences change everything! These differences created the characteristics that make us uniquely human: our permanently bipedal stance, hairless (mostly) bodies and extraordinary intelligence (and frightening capacity for evil). The point is that tiny changes matter. And on a related (ha) note, a reminder that you can download our app and seamlessly donate to 61 vetted conservation organisations. Just a thought…

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-7/
BRILLIANT PHOTOS
The entries are getting tougher to judge as the great pics keep rolling in. Check out our Week 7 selection, and don’t forget to enter.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/katavi-national-park/
WILD KATAVI
Tanzania’s Katavi draws hoards of wildlife in the dry season & flourishes under floodplains in the rainy months

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/super-tusker-tolstoy-treated-for-spear-wound/
TUSKER TROUBLE
Rangers jumped into action to treat super tusker, Tolstoy of Amboseli, for a spear wound following conflict with farmers

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/namibias-elephant-auction-evaluating-the-results/
ELEPHANT AUCTION
Opinion Editorial: balancing conservation, welfare & legality around Namibia’s controversial elephant auction

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The ultimate Maasai Mara safari for those wanting to push the boundaries of their photography – to achieve THAT image that everyone talks about. Award-winning photographer-guide + a specially modified vehicle for those low-angle shots + off-road driving permits = the perfect combo. Need we say more? August 2022 – 2 places left.

WATCH: Baby elephants rescued from mud in Mana Pools. Footage from two years ago that tugs at the heart-strings (02:45). Click here to watch

Super tusker Tolstoy treated for spear wound

Originally published by Big Life Foundation

Super tusker Tolstoy of Amboseli National Park in Kenya is a living natural wonder, carrying some of the largest tusks on the planet. So when the rangers from Big Life Foundation, who preserve the wildlife and habitats of the Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem, don’t see Tolstoy for a while – they go looking.

When Tolstoy’s absence was noticed last week, the rangers set out to search beyond their regular patrol areas. Eventually, they found Tolstoy resting under a tree. All appeared well, until the giant took a step. It was evident that Tolstoy was struggling to walk. After getting closer to get a better view, the rangers could identify the problem: Tolstoy had a puncture wound in the joint on his front right leg.

A wound like this was no accident. Tolstoy is known for raiding crops. He usually returns unscathed from his night-time forays into farmland but, when he is caught in the act of crop-raiding, farmers will do whatever they can to defend their fields. In this case, Tolstoy was speared in the leg. Crop-raiding by elephants can cost a farmer their entire season’s income in one night, and despite Tolstoy being one of Africa’s last remaining ‘super tuskers’, that doesn’t stop farmers from protecting their livelihoods. It is also not the first time this has happened. Tolstoy was treated for three spear wounds in 2018 – injuries that were also received during crop-raiding.

The joint Kenya Wildlife Service/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust mobile veterinary unit was quick to respond, but the decision to treat Tolstoy was not made immediately. Darting an animal of his size, particularly with a wound in a sensitive joint, is extremely risky because the elephant may not be able to stand after treatment. The decision was made to wait 24 hours and see if his condition improved.

Tolstoy super tusker — Tolstoy was darted and quickly treated by the vet team. After receiving a jab to wake up, he retreated to rest in the shade.

The rangers stayed by his side through the waiting period, spending the entire night out with him. However, the wound showed no sign of improvement. The decision was then made to dart him – which was done quickly and professionally. His wound was thoroughly cleaned and treated, and Tolstoy was given antibiotics and painkillers before receiving a jab to wake him up.

With great effort, Tolstoy finally stood and stared back at the treatment team, before retreating into the shade. For now, his prognosis looks good. But he is unfortunately not yet in the clear and Big Life’s rangers will continue to monitor him as his wound heals and he walks the road to recovery. The rangers will also continue to spend their nights out in the farms around Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, keeping elephants safe and helping farmers to protect their crops – in the hopes of preventing similar occurrences in the future.

Learn more about Big Life Foundation’s work or make a donation here.

Resources

Want to follow super tuskers on safari in Tsavo and Amboseli? We show you how.

You can also read about AG travel client Roger’s experience searching for super tuskers on the app forum.

Read more about the super tuskers of Tsavo.

Learn about dealing with the challenge of crop-raiding elephants in Tanzania.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 7

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Namibia’s elephant auction: Evaluating the results

Note from our CEO Simon Espley: ‘This is an emotional topic for most of us. The author of this opinion editorial on Namibia’s elephant auction succinctly differentiates between the science and the ethical issues at play and between fact and speculation. This is a tough read for those of us who believe that there can be no justification for capturing wild elephants and subjecting them to incredible hardships and early death in zoos and other forms of prison. The lucky ones will be moved to large protected areas in Africa, but many will disappear through CITES loopholes into the fog of the wildlife trading industry. That said, it is important to read the facts so that our opinions are informed, and to recognise that solutions have to be found in instances where elephants and humans clash for space and water.’

By Gail Thomson, originally published by Conservation Namibia

Namibia’s decision to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots has to date resulted in the capture and translocation of 37 wild elephants from the Kamanjab and Omatjete areas. Both captures for the elephant auction involved family groups of elephants, with one group translocated to a private reserve in Namibia run by N/a’an ku sê and the other exported to two safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Following the conclusion of these transactions, more details are now available that allow for an evaluation of the decision to auction elephants and its consequences.

The reasons for this tender are covered in detail in a previous article on this topic. Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is both a cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. The dominant land use in these areas is livestock farming, where fencing and water infrastructure (pipes, reservoirs, drinking troughs) are not built to withstand elephants.

The elephant removal plan was thus a short-term action to alleviate some of the conflict by removing elephant herds from high-conflict areas, while simultaneously providing income to the Game Products Trust Fund (GPTF). This Fund does not contribute to MEFT’s overall budget, but is ring-fenced for conservation projects and the Human-Wildlife Conflict Self-Reliance Scheme. Long-term plans that MEFT wants to implement to reduce human-elephant conflict would thus be funded through the GPTF. Offers to pay the GPTF without removing any elephants from the target areas were not aligned with MEFT’s primary objective to reduce elephant numbers and did not include specific amounts of money or detailed plans of action. Such vague promises were therefore not considered valid bids.

Thus far, N$ 4.4 million has been paid to the GPTF by two successful bidders. One of these bidders, the N/a’an ku sê Foundation, translocated 15 elephants from the Omatjete area to their newly established private reserve covering 33,000 hectares. The other successful bidder is game farmer Gerrie Odendaal, who bought the elephant herds and resold them to two safari parks in the UAE. Since the latter bid involves exporting elephants into captive conditions outside the natural elephant range, it is the more controversial of the two. (Note that another 20 elephants have been sold on auction but are yet to be captured, and their destination yet to be revealed.)

Elephant movements in Namibia — (Left) The coloured marks represent elephant movements in Namibia, and the southern border of Etosha is represented by the upper green line. The herd moved to N/a’an ku sê’s property came from the pale blue area (Omatjete-Kalkfeld-Fransfontein). The herd exported to UAE via quarantine in Gobabis was from the pale green area (near Kamanjab). The core range of desert-adapted elephants is around the dry riverbeds in communal conservancies and protected areas further west. (Right) A land use-map showing the same overview of Namibia, demonstrating freehold and communal farming areas. Note that the desert-adapted elephant population generally ranges to the west of the red line on the map (areas receiving less than 150mm of rain per year on average)

The main issues involved with capturing wild elephants for the purposes of captivity relate to elephant conservation and welfare. Exporting elephants internationally must further satisfy conditions set by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Here, I provide relevant information on each of these issues as they relate to the current elephant auction.

Elephant Conservation

There are two aspects of MEFT’s elephant tender that need to be considered to evaluate this decision in terms of elephant conservation. The first is whether there was any conservation value to this decision in Namibia, and the second is whether there is any conservation value at the elephants’ ultimate destinations.

The contribution to GPTF and the short-term alleviation of some human-elephant conflict in the two target areas has some conservation value. This is especially so if the N$ 4.4 million is earmarked not just for conservation projects generally but for implementing longer-term research and conservation projects that aim to reduce conflict and assist local farmers. Alleviating the current conflict by removing some elephants (other herds remain in the area) further shows these farmers that MEFT is willing to take concrete action to reduce conflict in the long term. Evidence of collaborative projects between MEFT, the Namibian University of Science and Technology’s Biodiversity Research Centre and Elephant Human Relations Aid strongly suggest that the elephant removals will be followed up with future assistance.

The case for elephants being exported to safari parks in the UAE having conservation value at their destination is much weaker. The Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) strongly agrees with the IUCN African Elephant Specialist Group on this matter: keeping elephants in captivity provides no direct benefit to elephant conservation in the wild. As Dr Chris Brown, CEO of NCE states, “keeping elephants in zoos is a Victorian-era practice that has no place in modern conservation, which focuses on maintaining wild animal populations and their associated ecosystems”.

This is part of a larger debate, however, as zoos and safari parks worldwide claim that they have a role to play in educating the public and creating awareness of the need to conserve animals in Africa. Some zoos provide conservation grants, while others claim to contribute to species conservation through research and captive breeding programmes. One of the safari parks receiving these Namibian elephants is a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA) and the other states that EAZA will be a partner in their future breeding programmes. Both parks have refused to be publicly named as destinations for these elephants.

Regardless of the claims made by zoos and safari parks of their contribution to conservation, it would have been vastly preferable if these elephants were sent to other African range states with depleted elephant populations. As MEFT discovered from the responses to their tender notice, however, there are vanishingly few areas in Africa that are ready to receive elephants at this time. MEFT is certainly willing to engage with other African countries to assist with restocking depleted elephant populations, but one would first have to address the causes of that depletion (e.g. poaching) before undertaking a reintroduction programme.

In early 2020, African Parks signed a management agreement with Iona National Park, which is part of a Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) that includes Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park. Elephants from north-western Namibia would therefore be well-suited to conditions in south-western Angola. It will likely take a few years of improving the infrastructure and staff capacity to address poaching in Iona before they are ready to accept elephants. African Parks did not approach MEFT regarding these elephants, so it is reasonable to conclude that they are not ready to receive elephants yet. MEFT is more than willing to support an elephant translocation to Angola provided they receive a formal request from that government.

Moving elephants within Namibia to areas that are suitably fenced is another option, which was provided by N/a’an ku sê’s new private reserve. Like other Southern African nations with growing elephant populations, however, there are very few areas in Namibia that can host more elephants. Translocating the elephants back into Etosha National Park, for example, would have a low likelihood of success because Etosha’s population is close to its capacity. This is why these elephant groups broke out of Etosha in the first place – to seek water and grazing elsewhere. Further, the Etosha fence line is in no fit state to keep elephants inside the park. Even some private farms in Namibia that have elephants struggle to maintain their fences against elephant damage, thus becoming a source of human-elephant conflict rather than a solution.

With clearly limited options for translocating wild elephants to other areas within natural elephant range that could make a significant contribution to conservation, what other options remain for MEFT? The only other practical option for reducing elephant numbers in the short-term is culling. Unlike the tender option, this would provide no income to GPTF. Since CITES prevents international ivory trade, the only value that could be captured from culling is the meat that could be locally distributed or sold. As Botswana discovered, this option is even less popular among the general public than a live elephant auction.

Elephant Welfare

Some of the greatest protests against exporting elephants to captivity are related to animal welfare. Certainly, if the destination of these elephants were small concrete enclosures in disreputable zoos, this move would be rightly condemned on animal welfare grounds alone. The practice of separating young animals from their mothers and training them using cruel or questionable methods to “break” them is abhorrent. The conditions of the Namibian tender (that family groups had to be moved together) were such that unscrupulous buyers such as these would not be interested, and several other conditions set out in the tender document addressed elephant welfare during the translocation process.

Gerrie Odendaal, the game farmer who organised and paid for the translocation, quarantine and export of the 22 elephants destined for the UAE was also concerned for the welfare of these animals. He remained in constant contact with an independent veterinarian and the MEFT wildlife veterinarian during the time that the elephants were in his care. He says that when they arrived at his 28-hectare quarantine facility, the elephants were aggressive and afraid of people, probably because they were continually harassed on the farms around Kamanjab. Odendaal continues, “after a few weeks in my care, they calmed down considerably and even females with young calves were comfortable in the presence of people.” Odendaal commented, “I even fed the older bull with apples straight from my hand, although I respected their space and never approached them on the ground.”

Photos of these elephants reveal neat puncture holes in the ears of some of the older females, which have most likely been caused by small-calibre bullets intended to chase the elephants away from farms where they were unwelcome. Sadly, one of the younger elephants seems to be an orphan. Odendaal speculates: “It is old enough to feed itself, but does not associate closely with any of the adult females. It seems that its mother was killed sometime before we captured the herd.”

The 28-hectare camp is based on the final destination facility at one of the safari parks (the elephant enclosure at the other one is 24 hectares). Prior to the elephants’ arrival, Odendaal’s quarantine area contained large camel thorn trees and plenty of smaller bushes, but the elephants have destroyed these trees in the last few months (the quarantine period had to be extended due to COVID-related travel restrictions). Artificial shade near the feeding area has therefore been provided to replace the shade trees. Odendaal provided bales of lucerne, branches harvested from bushes on the rest of his farm, and hundreds of apples to sustain the elephants’ healthy appetites. The herd was provided with fresh piped water and a muddy pool to cool themselves off.

In consultation with a veterinarian who has many years of experience with elephants, the 22 elephants that were captured in Kamanjab were split into two female herds, with one unrelated bull each, that were delivered to the two safari parks at the same time. While in quarantine, all of these elephants were kept together and the two sub-groups were identified by closely observing how the herd split up when moving around the camp. The elephants that were born in the quarantine facility (having been conceived in the wild prior to capture) were added to the Namibian CITES export permit and were provided with extra care during transit. On the Namibian side of this translocation, every effort was taken to ensure the welfare of these elephants, and the destinations in the UAE seem to be capable of maintaining a high welfare standard.

Concerns nonetheless remain about the destination of the next generation of elephants, if these herds breed successfully in the UAE. Dr Brown comments: “Their future is now out of our hands. Will they land up in Victorian-style, cramped zoos, or in even worse caged conditions in China? What prevents these safari parks from selling elephants on to less reputable places? It is imperative that zoo associations (EAZA and others) ensure that captive elephant populations are carefully monitored to prevent welfare abuses of this nature.”

CITES Permits

Import and export permits are not provided by CITES itself, but each country must have its own national authority that provides such permits, following rules and guidelines set by CITES. The national authorities report to CITES regularly on their numbers of imports and exports, and provide information to the CITES Secretariat on specific decisions when required.

CITES categorises plants and animals that are (or could be) threatened by international trade into Appendix I, II and III (Appendix III is not of concern here). Species in Appendix I are considered to be highly threatened by international trade. CITES therefore restricts all trade in these species, except under specific conditions. Appendix II species are considered to be not currently threatened by international trade, but could become so if this trade is not closely controlled. African elephants are listed as Appendix I in all range states except Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe, where they are listed under Appendix II.

Previous exports of elephants from Zimbabwe to non-African states (including China and the UAE) were completed under Appendix II guidelines, which state that the animals can only go to appropriate and acceptable destinations. At the most recent CITES Conference of the Parties (CoP18) in 2019, the definition of what is appropriate and acceptable was amended to destinations located within the natural range of African elephants and that contribute to in situ (i.e. in the wild) conservation programmes.

A recent statement by CITES on the Namibian elephant export explains the conditions that national authorities must adhere to when issuing export and import permits for Appendix I and II species. From this statement, it is clear that if Appendix II conditions are not met, the animals must be treated as Appendix I species. Given the recent restrictions on exporting Appendix II species outside of elephant range, these Namibian elephants are being exported and imported under Appendix I conditions.

Under these conditions, the Namibian national authority (MEFT) must be satisfied that this particular deal is:
a) not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) not illegal under national laws;
c) the translocation methods must minimise the risk of injury, damage to health or cruel treatment; and
d) that an import permit has been granted by the destination country.

The Namibian government has met all of these conditions and is therefore operating within CITES regulations.

As the importing country, the UAE national authority must be satisfied that:
a) the transaction is not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) the facility where the elephants will be kept is suitably equipped to house and care for them; and
c) the elephants are not to be used for primarily commercial purposes.

The last clause does not refer to money being paid to the exporter for the animals, but for how the buyer in the importing country will use those animals. Since the UAE has granted an import permit that covers both safari parks, it seems that their national authority is satisfied that they meet all three of these conditions (the third condition is described in more detail here).

On final evaluation

The definitive evaluation of MEFT’s decision to auction 170 elephants is thus not straightforward. From a CITES point of view, it is legal. In judging whether or not it was a good decision, one must take into account both conservation and welfare concerns.

For conservation purposes, at the very least, these decisions must not compromise the survival of the elephant population. Removing 170 elephants from farmlands outside protected areas will not have a detrimental effect on the survival of the Namibian elephant population, thereby meeting this minimum condition. The most vulnerable sub-population in Namibia occurs in arid areas on the unfenced communal conservancies and protected areas in the far west: these are commonly known as the desert-adapted elephants. The elephants that were removed are not part of the desert-adapted population, but occur directly south of Etosha.

MEFT and its partners are implementing a longer-term plan to try and mitigate the conflict between farmers and the remaining elephants. It is reasonable to say that a net gain for conservation was achieved for Namibia by selling rather than culling these herds. Nevertheless, keeping elephants in captivity has no direct conservation value, as reintroductions from captivity into the wild are far more costly and risky for the elephants than wild-wild translocations.

On the welfare side, our actions must limit animal suffering as much as possible. In this case, not removing elephants from farmlands also has negative welfare implications, as they may be harassed and even killed by frustrated farmers. We do not know what the elephants would choose if given the option between a safe, boring life in captivity, a dangerous life alongside hostile humans, or a quick death at the hands of a professional culling team. Of the options available for captivity, large safari park enclosures that allow whole family herds to stay together in semi-natural conditions are preferable to individual elephants living in cramped zoo conditions.

In an ideal world, none of this would be necessary. Humans and elephants would have no problems living side-by-side, the elephant range could keep expanding across southern Africa with no difficulties, and poaching would no longer be a problem. No elephants would be kept in captivity worldwide, and anyone wishing to see an African elephant would visit protected areas on the continent and thus boost tourism revenues. Unfortunately, we do not live in an ideal world. In reality, decision-makers have to strike a balance between competing human and elephant needs, while taking elephant conservation and wildlife safaris into account.

Resources

Dive into the key questions for human-elephant conflict research.

Read more on the story behind the Namibian elephant auction.

Learn about the great balancing act between elephants and communities.

Katavi National Park

Life in sub-Saharan Africa is ruled over by the cadence of the seasons. Nowhere in East Africa is the dichotomy between the dry and wet season more apparent than in Tanzania’s Katavi National Park. The arrival of the rains transforms landscapes, and a scarcity (or overabundance) can mean the difference between life and death. As the last thunderstorm dissipates beyond the horizon in Katavi, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun. Rivers slow to a trickle, honeycomb cracks appear in the mud, and the remaining water becomes a raw battleground. Hippos pack together in lingering wallows, crocodiles slither into sandbank caves, and herbivores must run the predator gauntlet as they line up to quench their thirst each day. For those in the know, this is what makes the remote Katavi one of the most electrifying safari destinations – a seldom-visited natural nirvana.

Katavi National Park

At 4,500km²(450,000 hectares), Katavi is one of Tanzania’s largest national parks. It is situated not far from the country’s western border, just east of Lake Tanganyika in a truncated arm of the Great Rift Valley (the Rukwa Rift Basin) that ends around Lake Rukwa. The Lyamba Iya Mfipa and Mlele escarpments line the park to the west and east. The protected area is significantly augmented by surrounding game reserves, including Rukwa, Lukwati and Luafi (also spelt Lwafi) Game Reserves. Together with the national park, these reserves encompass some 12,000km² (1,2 million hectares) of prime wilderness, stretching to the Ruaha ecosystem to the east and the chimpanzee forests of Mahale National Park to the north. Much of the park is dominated by miombo woodland interspersed by vast open clearings (including the 425km² – 42,500 hectares – Katisunga Plain) and floodplains. Naturally, life revolves around the park’s rivers and reed-lined waterway networks. The Katuma River feeds the seasonal Katavi and Chada Lakes, its network supplemented by the Kavu and Kapapa Rivers. Ancient riverine forests dominated by tamarind trees line these river systems, providing ample shade for the elephants, buffalos and tourists that seek refuge beneath the canopy during the soporific heat of the day.

East Africa is, of course, a safari mecca and there are many places where wildlife viewing is simply extraordinary. Yet Katavi, on Tanzania’s southern circuit, stands out because it is so far off the traditional beaten safari track that it receives fewer than 500 visitors every year. Those visitors who make the journey are richly rewarded and often find themselves with a vast chunk of African savanna to themselves, without another tourist in sight.

Leopard in tree — Katavi’s predators are not as habituated to humans as in more popular reserves, providing truly wild experiences

Without the pressure of high tourist densities, the park authorities offer more freedom and activities to their adventurous patrons. Walking safaris are permitted in the company of an armed ranger, and self-drive visitors looking to camp in the park have innumerable options when picking a suitable site.

The park’s animals are less accustomed to people and vehicles. While far from skittish, they do not display the almost zoo-like disinterest in passing cars as seen in some more popular safari destinations. This, combined with Katavi’s remote and secluded ambience, gives the impression of a world where, for once, humankind is not entirely in control.

The Wild West

While Katavi’s far-flung and off-the-map quality is its most impressive drawcard, that is not to suggest that the wildlife sightings are not jaw-dropping in their own right. As already mentioned, Katavi truly comes into its own as a safari destination during the dry season. As the grass turns golden, the vanishing water turns the park into an extravaganza of nature at her most raw. This region boasts Tanzania’s highest densities of hippos and crocodiles – obviously species entirely dependent upon the presence of water. Yet, both have adapted to survive the annual disappearance of their preferred habitat for months at a time. Pods of hippos pack themselves into mud wallows by the hundreds, desperately seeking protection from the blazing sun. Social though hippos may be, hundreds of two-tonne animals crowded together are bound to cause the odd neighbourly feud and fights between bulls are especially common. During this spectacle, the resultant photographic opportunities are renowned for their bleak representation of nature’s savagery. Somewhat sensibly, the crocodiles prefer to avoid these Brobdingnagian mosh pits. Instead, they crowd into caves on the riverbanks, slithering over each other for a prime spot and entering a state of dormancy to wait out the dry season.

Bloats of hippos numbering in the hundreds are a common sight in Katavi during the dry season

The more land-based creatures of Katavi are also forced to congregate around the drying water points, and the profusion of wildlife on display from May until October is an impressive sight. The Katavi region is known for its massive herds of buffaloes and numerous elephants, and hosts robust populations of lions, painted wolves (wild dogs), cheetahs, and hyenas. Elands gather in large herds in certain parts of the park, and fortunate visitors could be lucky enough to spot both roan and sable antelopes.

Over 400 bird species have been recorded. Naturally, most visitors are looking to take advantage of the mammal displays of the dry season, which does not equate with the best birding opportunities that Katavi offers. Instead, the best time for bird watching in the park is when the migrant species return to “summer” in Katavi from November until April, coinciding with the arrival of the rains. During these months, the seasonal lakes fill, and floodplains revert to boggy marshland, making the waterbird viewing exceptional.

Wildlife in Katavi — Large gatherings of wildlife around the shallowing water points in the drier months provide astonishing displays

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Katavi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Though Katavi may be remote, the park and surrounds offer a small number of luxury lodges on par with grandeur and comfort found anywhere else in Africa. These beautiful camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the arid months, offering spectacular “armchair” wildlife viewing from the lodge decks between game drives. Unfortunately, most of the camps are closed for part of, if not all, of the rainy season from November until May, when the roads become sludgy, and parts of the park become totally inaccessible. For the more intrepid visitor, camping and self-drive through the park is an option, though it is essential to consider the journey to get there (measured in days rather than hours). Most visitors opt to fly into the Ikuu airstrip – a three-hour flight from Dar es Salaam.

Accommodation in Katavi — Chada Katavi is a luxurious option when exploring the park, and Mbali Mbali offers a comfortable, remote experience away from regular tourist routes

Parting thoughts

In the heart of Katavi National Park, near Lake Katavi, an innocuous-looking tamarind tree holds a deep spiritual meaning. Here, the Bende and Pimbwe people believe that the spirit of Katabi – a great hunter – has taken up residence, and he looks out across the mountains where his wife, Wamweru, resides. Katavi was named for Katabi, the hunter-spirit, and it is believed that gifts and offerings placed at the base of the tree will bring good fortune and blessings. The local people are seemingly content to share the favours of Katabi, and visitors are encouraged to leave behind their gifts to the precious tree.

This gem of cultural history is just one part of what makes the Katavi experience so raw and intense – an awareness of both the power of nature and our intimate, intuitive connection to it. With her seasonal foibles and dramatic interplay of life and death, untrammelled Katavi is genuinely one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.

Giraffe in Katavi — Katavi’s camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the surroundings

Comment – teamAG – Friday 18 March 2022

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Best photos + top painted wolf spots + Japan’s illegal ivory

Once in a blue moon, a safari opportunity comes along that awakens the ESSENCE of me. As if someone has stuck a big spoon into my soul and stirred every raw nerve, every instinctive impulse.

I had, of course, heard of Chitake, but THESE IMAGES & VIDEO became the stirring spoon, and I took more notice. Then my colleague Nadia spent a few days there and came back with stories of sleepless nights because of the loud nocturnal battles between lions and their targets – buffaloes and elephants. She is an experienced guide with tons of bush time – and not prone to exaggeration. Her final summation: ‘Next level.’

And so we crafted this safari. The first group of six sold out in hours, and we have four places left on the second (and only other) group. This safari is not about rim-flow pools and crystal champagne flutes – it’s in-your-face primal Africa, unlike a luxury honeymoon safari in Kenya.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

When teamAG isn’t out finding the best safaris, we’re at our desks packaging them for delivery to you. So we too have time to develop travel FOMO. Especially when we’re choosing (and reliving) Africa’s 6 painted wolf hotspots – see our first story below. For me, it’s Kruger. For Simon, the vital population of Khwai, and for Jamie, the famous canids of Mana Pools.

Our third story brings you the week’s best photos, where you can visit the otherworldly Danakil Depression and the tuskers of Amboseli.

By contrast, images of raw ivory from Japan’s legal market, which commoditises elephants and conceals illegal international trade, bring a stark reality home. Our second story below refers.

Send us your thoughts (join the club to comment)!
Happy celebrating Africa to you all.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

At the top of your newsletter, the photograph features the glorious sandstone Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park’s most famous landmark. Below them flows the Runde River on its way to the confluence with the Save River and then a meandering journey of over 300km to the Indian Ocean. Why do I mention this? Because Zambezi sharks are regularly recorded at the confluence.

Did you know that the Zambezi shark (bull shark) thrives in both salt and fresh water? These are not just brief forays upriver into estuaries either – they have been known to travel as far as 1,100km from the ocean up the Mississippi River and 4,000km up the Amazon River into Peru. These are usually gravid females searching for a safe place to give birth. So a short trip to landlocked Zimbabwe is nothing for a shark with travel FOMO.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-6-top-places-to-see-painted-wolves/
PAINTED WOLF
Here are the 6 top spots in Africa to scout for wild dogs

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/japan-an-illegal-ivory-traders-haven-new-report/
ILLEGAL IVORY
Japan’s domestic ivory market has created a haven for illegal traders – new report

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-6/
BEST PHOTOS
Our selection from this week’s magnificent Photographer of the Year entries

WATCH: Epic aerial footage of African landscapes you are dying to visit (0:58). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 6

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

On the dry lake beds of Amboseli, a breeding herd leaves its night-time resting spot to head to the marshes. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss

Satisfaction. A satiated cheetah takes a break after a meal. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Aarti Shah

The volcanic chemicals of otherworldly Dallol decorate hydrothermal ponds trapped amongst ancient coral reefs and salty minerals. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

After the breeding season, Lake Bogoria’s alkaline waters are a haven for almost a million lesser flamingos – more than a quarter of the global population of these birds. Kenya. © XIAOCHENGUANG

The new king of Liuwa Plain strides across the vast landscape. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

Once plentiful, only a few remaining super tuskers roam Amboseli National Park today. Here, super tusker Craig towers above the camera, with Mount Kilimanjaro in neighbouring Tanzania seen in the distance. Kenya. © Dewald Tromp

A lion cub takes a break from rolling in the grass after suckling. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dirk Johnen

Playtime for two young elephant calves. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Gabriela Staebler

Eyes on the prize. A cheetah sets her laser-focused sights on a Thomson’s gazelle. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

A trader from the Afar Triangle, bound for Mekele, packs his camel with slabs of salt mined from one of the Earth’s hottest places. Here, Red Sea floods 30,000 years ago created one of the world’s richest salt deposits. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

Remarkable patterns of tracks criss-cross the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Occasional small herds of wildebeest and zebra cross the expanse to take advantage of the more nutritious grasses sprouting on the edge of the pans. Botswana. © James Gifford

Back to black. Grey crowned cranes perch in front of two black rhinos. Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Mega-gardener of the forest. The straighter, downward-pointing tusks of the smaller forest elephant distinguish it from the savannah elephant. These elephants play a crucial role in dispersing many tree species in their last strongholds in West and Central Africa. Loango National Park, Gabon. © Lynn Gindorff

Head’s up! A Nile crocodile feasts on the head of a badly decomposed antelope. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Holland

A black-backed jackal takes a dove by surprise at Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

Sunrise silhouette of a mating pair of lions in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

Samburu moran (warrior), Sam, at Ololokwe Mountain. This sacred desert mountain holds cultural significance for the Samburu tribe. Kenya. © Mojgan Arashvand

A Cape cobra attempts to devour a small leopard tortoise near Dikbaardskolk waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Pierre Rossouw

The drama is tangible when witnessing a hippo brawl from the bow of a boat. Chobe River, Botswana. © Antionette Morkel

A family of elephants, bothered by a bull in musth not far behind, crosses the plains below Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss

An early morning scuffle in Amboseli National Park. Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald

A Suri woman wears a unique lip plate featuring a hollow centre. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

Long in the tooth. A Nile crocodile’s mouth is filled with up to 68 sharply pointed teeth. Chobe River, Botswana. © Trix Jonker

Japan: An illegal ivory trader’s haven – new report

Japan is failing to regulate its domestic ivory market, resulting in the perfect cover for illegally imported ivory and a supply source for illegal export. This is according to a new report compiled by the non-profit organisation, the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund (JTEF). The report challenges the Government of Japan’s (GoJ) claim that “Japan has been implementing stringent measures to ensure that its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade”, calling it “flawed and unjustified”.

In 2016, the state parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) adopted a resolution calling for those member states with a legal domestic ivory market to take urgent measures to close the commercial trade. Three years later, at the next Conference of the Parties, those states (including Japan) that opted not to do so were requested to report to the Secretariat on the measures taken to ensure that these domestic ivory markets were not contributing to poaching or illegal trade.

Japan remains the world’s most significant open ivory market. In response to the CITES request, the Government of Japan issued a firm assurance that these measures were in place, pointing to controls such as the stringent oversight of dealership registration, the compulsory registration of whole tusks and the use of carbon dating to determine tusk origin. However, the comprehensive 22-page report from the JTEF gives detailed examples of how these measures have failed in their supposed purpose.

In summary, findings of the JTEF report include:

The persistent illegal ivory exports from Japan result from the country’s authorised legal market selling many different ivory items.
The compulsory registration of ivory dealers (or renewal thereof) should involve a rigorous examination of eligibility – something the Government of Japan claims is done. However, the JTEF contends that this examination is, in reality, non-existent and does not preclude the registration of problematic dealers.
The requirement to register all whole tusks was successfully bypassed as registered dealers simply cut them into pieces and processed them into Hanko (traditional signature stamps).
The use of carbon dating to increase scrutiny for whole tusk registration came too late, and a vast number of tusks with unknown origin and acquisition have been legalised and entered the market.
Despite assurances of traceability, the report indicates that there is no official verification on the legality of origin and acquisition at the point of production for ivory cut pieces and products, making traceability impossible.
Closing the domestic legal market may be the only way to eliminate the significant trade loopholes.
The influence of Japan’s buoyant domestic ivory market on the international community’s goal of preventing illegal international ivory trade should not be downplayed.

Semi-processed ivory pieces observed at indoor antiques fairs in Tokyo and Kyoto; Display of ivory items at a shop in Tokyo’s tourist areas; Raw ivory displayed at an auction house; Newly manufactured ivory products found at two shops in Tokyo’s major tourist areas

Each chapter of the report is dedicated to one of the measures supposedly set to prevent Japan’s legal market from contributing to the illegal trade in ivory. For example, the first chapter delves into how, despite “rigorous examination”, dealership registration is granted or renewed for kingpins in the ivory market, even when these companies have a recent-track record of illegal ivory trade.

The second chapter deals with the requirement for all whole tusks to be registered before they are involved in any transactions. The registration process requires identifying each tusk’s legal origin and acquisition. According to the JTEF, the dealers predicted the 2019 tightening of tusk registration ahead of time. Given that the law only requires that whole tusks are registered, traders rushed to take advantage of the loophole by cutting registered and unregistered tusks. Unregistered stockpiles are posed as registered stockpiles using the registration cards of those already consumed.

The report also claims that carbon dating to examine tusks upon registration was intentionally delayed. As a result, tusks of unknown but questionable origin were legalised and entered the market before carbon-dating analysis may have exposed their background.

The report challenges the Government of Japan’s claims that stringent measures are in place to ensure its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade

The authors of the JTEF report conclude that not only has the Government of Japan failed to regulate the domestic ivory market, but these failures are systemic and consistent and have left the market open to the illegal trade in tusks. They call upon Japan to end all ivory trade as a matter of urgency, stating that the “stockpile is vast and the market remains tireless”.

A few weeks after the release of the JTEF report, the Standing Committee of CITES agreed that countries must continue to report on their domestic ivory markets. The EU has also called for an analysis of whether ivory seizures connected to countries that have not closed their domestic ivory markets may influence illegal international trade – a call echoed by Gabon.

Resources

For more on the extent of Japan’s ivory trade, you can watch the video of shocking evidence of Japan’s dirty ivory trade.

For more on how ivory Hanko stamps became popular, read Elephant ivory and the Japanese Hanko stamp.

And finally, read about how TRAFFIC and the WWF have also called for the closure of Japan’s ivory market.

The full report from the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund can be accessed here: Sakamoto, M., (2022), ‘Japan’s Tireless Ivory Market: A Trader’s Haven Free of Strict Control‘, Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 11 March 2022

Cape clawless otters frolic in the coastal waters of Vermont, Western Cape, South Africa.

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Epic pics + Central Kalahari magic + entertaining otters

Such Disneyfied drama!

Fig, a confiding and beloved leopardess from a conservancy bordering the Maasai Mara, is no more – killed by a male lion. I can imagine how traumatic this must have been for the guests and guides that bore witness. And yet this PRIMAL process plays itself out all over wild Africa, in so many ways.

One gent, a respected photographer and local lodge owner, was so upset about the manner of Fig’s demise that he threw himself into a rather dramatic Facebook post. He described the lion as “a brutal alpha male” that “invaded a small unthreatening enclave“. On the lion’s behaviour, he commented that the “leonine tyrant savaged its innocent prey in an unprovoked, unnecessary and seemingly unwarranted attack“. Fig was described thus: “She was our bank, inspiration, figurehead, and confidant. She was our Zelensky.”

Stepping aside from the peculiar reference to the Ukraine situation, reactions like this from a person of influence in response to nature behaving normally emphasize the ongoing Disneyfication of real life in Africa. CELEBRATE Fig and mourn her, but never ever condemn nature for doing her thing. Drops the mic

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Is there a right way to photograph people?

A few of this week’s Photographer of the Year entries capture intimate human moments around the continent – allowing visceral views into diverse cultures and sparking introspection in the AG office. When is photographing people intrusive? Where is the line drawn between respectfully representing a complex situation, or reducing it to a one-sided, simplistic narrative? Is it invasive to position one’s lens amidst a Maasai circumcision ceremony or a Boloye dance – or does this depend on the circumstances in which a subject agrees to be photographed?

Our consensus in the office is reflected in our guidelines for submissions. Authenticity is key. Permission: essential. And the subject’s understanding of the potential exposure a photograph’s journey can bring: vital. The results can be wonderful – images that enlighten through education, stirring the viewer’s understanding of the world and expanding horizons. A single image can ignite action and change history. And it can bring inspirational Africa straight to you, our AG family. We’d love to hear your thoughts on this – comment on our Photographer of the Year entries via our first story below (join the club to comment).

For a bit of escapism this week, our second story below takes you to the wildlife-dotted plains of Kalahari Central Game Reserve. Read about this remote part of Botswana, which calls to the most rough and ready of adventurers. Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Every story has its villain, and nature is no different when trying to force it into a neat narrative. Vilification is inevitable when animals don’t conform to our moral expectations. It’s peculiar, the disparate values people assign different species – a lion killing a buffalo is exciting, a lion killing a leopard is a tragedy, a lion killing lion cubs is an abomination. (All often discussed in horror over a steak or pork chop dinner.)

But did you know that scientists have traced the neural pathways of infanticide? Their results are not all that straightforward, but, in essence, aggressive acts towards young of the same species (like infanticide) are mediated by regions of the brain entirely separate from those associated with other types of aggression. This behaviour is pure instinct and is therefore simply part of the natural way of things. And we cannot cherry-pick the aspects of nature we choose to appreciate…

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-5/
EPIC PICS
Celebrate Africa’s people and wildlife in our Week 5 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Submit your entries now.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/central-kalahari-game-reserve/
CENTRAL KALAHARI
Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a true wilderness that casts a spell on her visitors

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is always a favourite bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …

TIPPING – when to tip and how much? Now that the go-on-safari surge is gaining momentum, we address this perennial source of angst amongst travellers. Here then, are a few tips about tipping.

WATCH: The illegal trade in African grey parrots is facilitated by traders using social media – as presented by BBC Click. This documentary features club member World Parrot Trust – Africa. Watch this portion 02:01 – 11:15

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 5

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Namaqua sandgrouse on lift off at Bedinkt Waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

A hippo lies motionless in the mud during a hot day. The hippo’s fine epidermis renders its skin extremely sensitive to direct sunlight. Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

Flamingo affection at Rocherpan Nature Reserve. West Coast, South Africa. © Leon Labuschagne

Two of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s oldest cheetah females (sisters born in 2011), both accompanied by litters of sub-adult cubs, cooperatively hunt a gemsbok calf. South Africa. © Mark Kaptein

A toktokkie beetle feeds on a dragonfly in the Namib desert. Namibia. © Antionette Morkel

A Cape sugarbird flies over a protea after feeding on its sweet nectar. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

A member of the nomadic Fulani tribe from West Africa displays face tattoos and characteristic adornments. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand

Zenabu, also a member of the Fulani Tribe, displays the tattoos which indicate the diversity within small groups of this region in the norther parts of Benin. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand

Three blue wildebeest engage in a fierce battle. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dominique Maree

A cheetah family slows down for a quiet moment of nursing. Every few days the mother must move her cubs to avoid predators. This female has been collared for monitoring purposes. Marataba, Marakele National Park, South Africa. © Francoise Fourie

A Suri woman with decorated ear plate and large lip plate. The size of the lip plate indicates the number of cattle required for a Suri woman’s dowry. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

The wild, athletic movements of a ‘panther man’ dancing a Boloye dance. Côte d’Ivoire. © Inger Vandyke

A young Maasai boy’s face is painted during the Elatim circumcision ceremony. Tanzania. © Lewi Haskins

Male southern masked weavers having a spat at a hide near Bloemfontein. Free State, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

Cape fur seals gather where the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Namibia. © Anne-Françoise Tasnier

Through a glass darkly. These young giraffe and guardians seem to forge a mirror image on a ridge in Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Millie Kerr

A *Nephila* spider (golden-orb web spider) snacks on a fly. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Tiffany Duncan

Strawberry anemones have the ability to glow if subjected to UV light. Fluorescence absorbs high-energy light and re-emits it as low-energy light. Partridge Point Dive Site in False Bay, South Africa. © Peet J van Eeden

The owner of these dromaderies ‘conducts’ his camels as they drink from a well dug to water passing caravans between the ancient Ksours of Oualata and Tichitt. From here, the caravans leave for Mali, Côte d’Ivoire and Burkina Faso to transport harvested salt. Mauritania. © Romain Miot

A male lion showing a flehmen response while doing his morning rounds. This often takes place when a lion sniffs and smells the urine of another. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro

A Cape sugarbird perches amongst colourful blooming common mimetes. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

The Kalahari casts a spell upon her visitors – the kind of magic that can only be experienced first-hand. It is partly to do with a sense of space, a true wilderness stretching as far as the eye can see, both untamed and austerely beautiful. Yet, there is an element to the mystery of its allure, creating a tantalising combination of the immediate and the timeless. At the heart of this vast stretch of sand lies Botswana’s rugged Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where travellers can refresh world-weary souls beneath the cool blaze of the Milky Way.

The reserve and surrounds

As the name clearly implies, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) is situated smack in the middle of Botswana at the centre of the Kalahari Basin. Descriptors such as “vast” or “extensive” fail to do justice to the sheer scale of this enormous reserve, which extends over 52,800km² (over five million hectares) of arid bushveld. Along its boundaries, several private conservancies have successfully converted former farmland back to its original state and the protected area is further supplemented by the 2,500km² (250,000 hectares) Khutse Game Reserve to the south.

The word “Kalahari” shares its etymology with “Kgalagadi”, likely drawn from the Tswana word “kgala”, which can be roughly translated to mean “thirst” or “to dry up”. Thus, Kalahari is interpreted as “land of great thirst” and Kgalagadi as “a waterless place”. Whatever the exact translation, the overtones are unmistakable – this is a land devoid of surface water, a harsh and inhospitable wilderness. Yet once again, this fails to encapsulate the complexity of this amazing landscape fully.

One of the Kalahari’s most iconic sights

The Kalahari Desert is technically more semi-desert (apart from the far southwestern portion) and encompasses several different types of habitats, including grasslands, scrubland, and rich arid savanna – all of which can be found within the CKGR. Throughout the reserve, there is evidence of a more bountiful time in the Kalahari’s history, when rainfall was more abundant and temperatures a little less extreme. Fossil riverbeds crisscross the reserve, the most famous of which is Deception Valley in the northeast corner, so named because of the mirage created over the surface of the salt pan.

Although the terrain may seem harsh, nature always finds a way to survive, and the CKGR is no exception. Though not necessarily as abundant as the Okavango and Chobe areas to the north, wildlife abounds in CKGR, from herds of antelope to the predators that have learnt to stalk them through the long grasses.

Fundamentals

For the most part, the remote CKGR attracts a certain kind of traveller. These hardy adventurers are the sort prepared for any eventuality, driving 4x4s packed to the brim with equipment, water, fuel and everything but the kitchen sink (and sometimes a makeshift kitchen sink). With the astonishing capacity to set up/dismantle a rooftop tent with the speed and efficiency befitting a Formula One pitstop crew, they revel in the unspoilt peace of the wild. They will readily assist the less experienced with only a faintly detectable hint of smugness.

Adventurous travellers will be at ease setting up camp in the open wilderness of the reserve

Though it is unnecessary to be such a dab-hand at overlanding, a self-drive stay in the CKGR cannot be approached without meticulous planning. There are no shops within the reserve, and sufficient food, fuel, firewood and water must be purchased beforehand (only one camp has running water, which is not always available). Fuel supplies should be gauged with the significant distances between four entrance gates and the various campsites in mind.

The roads alternate between thick sand and clay that turns into sludge during the short rainy season. Phone signal is non-existent, and visitor density is extremely low, so it is not uncommon to spend the day exploring without seeing another soul. The northern section of the park tends to be slightly busier and offers greater concentrations of wildlife. This may all sound somewhat intimidating, but the result is more than worth the effort. This is, without doubt, one of the wildest parts of Southern Africa. The immersion in nature is absolute, and it is pretty easy to imagine one has this wilderness entirely to oneself.

Not much can compare with the experience of sleeping in a tent, with just a slip of canvas between you and the black-maned lion roaring in your campsite – with miles between you and the nearest civilisation.

Still too much? Well, fear not, less intrepid travellers can still experience the magic of the Kalahari without having to worry about being self-sufficient. The reserve and surrounds are peppered with luxury lodges where guests can still revel in the beauty and isolation of the desert — more on this below.

The creatures of the Kalahari

A leonine visit in the middle of the night is a common campsite occurrence in the CKGR, but, as might be expected, there is an element of luck involved in all desert wildlife sightings, particularly where predators are concerned. However, lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted wolves (wild dogs) are all resident, albeit in low densities compared to some of the northern parts of Botswana.

The famous black-maned lions of the Kalahari draw many visitors to CKGR

Elephants can and do move through the reserve. Still, sightings are few and far between, and elephant enthusiasts should visit the Okavango Delta, or head to Linyanti or Chobe National Park for their pachyderm fix. The upshot of this is that CKGR is generally not marketed as a suitable option for the first time or once-off safari-goers looking for the ‘Big 5’ and other iconic safari wildlife. Yet, the African desert never disappoints those who appreciate animal marvels of every shape and size.

Elephants are a less common and thus more special sighting in the reserve

Brown hyenas slink through the ancient riverbeds and smaller carnivores like jackals, caracals and honey badgers are always a highlight. The families of bat-eared foxes are a source of constant entertainment, sporting ridiculously oversized ears and somewhat sardonic expressions, while charismatic meerkats forage through the undergrowth. The usual assortment of campsite opportunists – ground squirrels, hornbills, mongooses and spurfowls, for example – are always around and don’t be surprised to find one drinking your shower water next to your feet with zero regard for privacy.

The wide-open plains of the Kalahari make for striking wildlife sightings

First people of the Kalahari

The Kalahari is the ancestral homeland of various San peoples, the oldest human inhabitants of the region and collectively one of the most persecuted groups in Southern Africa. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen (as they have expressly confirmed they prefer to be called) previously occupied the now CKGR region as nomadic hunter-gatherers. In fact, the reserve was initially established as a “place of sanctuary” for them during the 1960s.

However, a campaign to relocate the inhabitants began two decades later, culminating in forced removals to “resettlement camps” outside the park during the mid-1990s. The move was “justified” on conservation grounds but coincided with the discovery of diamonds in the southern section of the reserve. Though some of the Gana, Gwi and Tsila people have since won their legal battle to return to their ancestral homeland, returning to their old way of life has proved next to impossible. The legal conflict continues to this day in one of the most expensive court cases in Botswana’s history. (For a brief account of some of their hardships, read about the struggle of the Kalahari people.)

Central Kalahari Game Reserve — The CKGR experience – game drives, walks, cultural interactions with the subcontinent’s First People and iconic African animals.

One of the highlights for many travellers is to spend time with Bushmen, tracking or learning more about their cultures and traditions. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen have a deep and intimate connection to their homeland, and these experiences can be highly educational. Though a complete account of the land conflict in Botswana is beyond the scope of this article, it is beholden upon visitors to bear this context in mind when visiting the reserve and interacting with those who call it home. It is also essential to research the various cultural programmes on offer to ensure that the Bushmen guides receive the proceeds of this tourism-generated revenue.

Desert Rose

Though there are no roses in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the desert does bloom once a year. The fauna and flora of the Kalahari are all beautifully adapted to survive the pulse of the desert seasons, patiently awaiting the arrival of the rains. As storm clouds gather and lightning scythes through the sky, there is almost a palpable sigh of relief from the parched earth and inhabitants. The transformation is almost immediate and utterly breathtaking. The plants seize their chance before the greedy sand soaks up the water, bursting into life, covering the red dunes in shades of green and yellow.

The reserve comes alive in the rainy season

The salt pans of the north fill with water, and the herbivores gather in large numbers around the surrounding grass plains, forming impressive herds of giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, oryx, impala and springbok. Many give birth during the height of the green season, much to the delight of tourists and predators.

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Central Kalahari Game Reserve? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Very unusually, this desert rejuvenation means that the rainy season (between November and March) is the best time to visit the Central Kalahari Game Reserve or surrounding private conservancies. Though the afternoon thunderstorms can be disruptive to plans, they do help to take the edge off the summer heat. The only downside is that the clay soils turn into sludge, making driving conditions somewhat tricky. As expected, temperatures can be extreme, with boiling days and very chilly nights, especially during the dry season.

Luxury accommodation is available for those not willing to rough it on a self-drive 4X4 trip

There are several very basic campsites spread throughout the park, divided into state-run campsites and others that are privately operated. Generally, there is a trade-off between price and state of cleanliness/infrastructure that can be easily inferred from the above distinction. The luxury lodges offer the perfect alternative for those less keen on the necessary planning and potential pitfalls of self-drive. Of course, one of the significant advantages of going the lodge route is that the heat of the day can be spent dipping in and out of swimming pools looking out across the spectacular desert scenery!

The vast plains make for spectacular sunsets

Resources

A first-hand account of camping in CKGR – Camping in the Central Kalahari

Stunning photo gallery – The Dark Side of the Kalahari