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Africa’s 30 best swimming pools

Africa’s sensational destinations each come with their own magnetism. But no matter where you happen to find yourself, a magnificent swimming pool is guaranteed to add an extra element of magic.

Read on to discover our favourite pools in Africa.

 


Want to go discover the best swimming pools while on an African safari? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you


Best for ocean views

What can be better than gazing out over the big blue, cocktail in hand, while floating in temperate, calm waters? Look no further to find the best oceanside pools.

Azulik Lodge, Vilanculos, Mozambique: Perched atop a massive dune in a wildlife sanctuary is the tropical paradise of Azulik Lodge. As views from infinity pools go, this one across this corner of the Indian Ocean is hard to beat. Grab an R&R (Tipo Tinto rum and raspberry) or some fruit kebabs, and let the peace of paradise wash over you.

Canelands Beach Club & Spa, Salt Rock, South Africa: With 180˚ views of the ocean, the long pool at Canelands Beach Club & Spa is the perfect spot to watch for the fins of passing dolphins surfing the waves.

Tintswalo Atlantic, Cape Town, South Africa: Situated on the ocean’s edge, below Chapman’s Peak and offering spectacular views of one of the most beautiful urban/natural settings in the world, the view from the Tintswalo Atlantic pool is simply unbeatable.

Grab a cocktail at Azulik Lodge; soak up Cape Town at Tintswalo Atlantic; search for dolphins at Canelands Beach Club & Spa

Best for bush views

You can never get too much of the bush. But after a long day out on safari, soaking it all up while washing off the day and taking in the surroundings can be just the decompression you need.

Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: 1.4 million years ago, ancient tectonic forces began to propel lava to the surface in a series of volcanic eruptions that created the Chyulu Hills. Today, the swimming pool at Old Donyo Lodges looks out across this magnificent ancient scenery where some of the last great tuskers still roam.

Spot tuskers from Ol Donyo Lodge’s pool

Settlers Drift, Kariega Game Reserve, South Africa: Tucked into a steep, densely vegetated slope in a remote corner of Kariega Game Reserve, Settlers Drift offers spectacular views over the Bushman’s River, and the pool is the best spot to take it all in.

Khaya Ndlovu Manor House, Hoedspruit, South Africa: The infinity pool at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House looks out across to the Limpopo Drakensberg Mountains and over the miles of bushveld between. On a blazing hot Lowveld day, take refuge in the pool and watch arguably one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills, Zimbabwe: Matobo Hills is Zimbabwe’s oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like the rest of Amalinda Lodge, the swimming pool has been incorporated into a granite outcrop to look out across a wilderness of wildlife and history.

View the bush below at Settlers Drift; overlook the Drakensberg at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House; experience true wilderness at Amalinda Lodge

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania: In the heart of Serengeti National Park, the pool at Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge overlooks the vast sweeping plains of the “place where the land runs forever”. Close to the Maasai kopjes, the Museum of Olduvai Gorge, Seronera and the Grumeti River, visitors here will have no shortage of options for adventuring. But a day spent at the pool overlooking the bush is high up on the bucket list for memorable moments in the Serengeti.

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge’s view over the Serengeti makes a whole day spent in the pool well worth it
Africa Geographic Travel

Best for sighting wildlife

Don’t feel like being out on safari for the day? Satiate your FOMO by having your own sightings right in camp.

Mihingo Lodge, near Lake Mburo National Park, Uganda: Perched high atop the granite boulders of a kopje, the Mihingo Lodge infinity pool provides a magnificent vantage point for spotting wildlife in the savannah valley below.

Mihingo Lodge offers arguably one of the best pools in Africa

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe: On the northern border of Gonarezhou National Park, one of the last true pristine wilderness areas in Africa, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge looks out across the vast expanse of the Save River. Sip a cocktail in the cool waters while watching animals moving in for a drink below.

Saruni Samburu, near Samburu National Reserve, Kenya: Guests of Saruni Samburu can take their pick between two different swimming pools that overlook a waterhole. Escape the arid heat and watch as some of Samburu’s fascinating wildlife wanders through! Check out our Samburu special offer here.

Gonarezhou’s Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge overlooks the Save River; view the waterhole from Saruni Samburu’s pool; take a dip in the Great Karoo at the Manor House in Samara

The Manor House, Samara Karoo Reserve, Great Karoo, South Africa: Samara Karoo Reserve is a pioneering conservation journey to regenerate South Africa’s semi-arid Great Karoo region through rewilding and responsible tourism.  The mountain landscape unfolds over a 21-metre infinity pool, descending to a waterhole frequently visited by wildlife.

Best oases in the African heat

Africa’s sweltering sun and desert destinations don’t need to leave you feeling flustered. Soothe away the scorch in the cool welcoming waters.

Pel’s Post, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger National Park: The magnificent eco-lux property Pel’s Post offers views over the Luvuvhu River. It is an exclusive-use property, so the pool is shared only with family and friends. Temperatures in the magical Makuleke Contractual Park regularly exceed 40˚C, so a refreshing dip, with the sound of elephants not far off, is essential.

The swimming pool at Pel’s Post overlooks the Luvuvhu River

Chitwa Suite, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa: Picture this: you’re awoken at the crack of dawn with freshly brewed coffee, treated to a morning of leopard sightings and returned to the lodge for a sumptuous breakfast. The remaining hours of the day stretch ahead, begging to be filled with something relaxing yet extraordinary. As the sun bakes overhead, this is the perfect time to escape into the azure waters of your private swimming pool.

Kwessi Dunes Lodge, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia: In the vast desert wilderness, the pool at Kwessi Dunes Lodge is a veritable oasis with a view of the waterhole that draws in wildlife day and night.

Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi: This pool, perched above the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, is perfect for cooling off after a day out in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve. Surrounded by a riverine forest of marula, leadwood and star chestnut trees in a private concession, visitors will find true tranquillity in this piece of heaven.

Africa Geographic Travel
Experience a true oasis in the Namibian desert at Kwessi Dunes Lodge; while away the hours in Chitwa Suite’s pool in Sabi Sands; take a cool poolside break at Mkulumadzi Lodge

Best for sundowners after a long day

Nothing can beat the magic of a sundowner on safari. But some spots offer just a little more magic than others – especially when you can float about, cocktail in hand.

Duba Plains Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana: Raised above the marshy Delta on decking made of recycled railway sleepers, each suite at Duba Plains features a private plunge pool – the perfect private spot to watch the sun go down and reflect on a day packed full of Okavango action.

Duba Plains Camp offers private pools for each suite

Bakuba Lodge, Ankilibe, Madagascar: After a day exploring the nearby mangrove beach in the fishing village of Ankilibe, situated in magnificent southern Madagascar, this picturesque pool at Bakuba Lodge will offer welcome relief. Or choose to spend the day out taking a trip on the Onilahy River, and head back to the lodge to settle down for a local-rum cocktail.

Makanyi Private Game Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: The graceful curves of the Makanyi Lodge swimming pool are perfectly in keeping with the rest of the lodge aesthetic – graceful, yet unobtrusive in its bushveld setting.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda: World-famous Murchison Falls National Park was one of the premier safari destinations in Africa and is once again a park on the rise. Nile Safari Lodge and its glorious swimming pool look out over a tranquil section of the Nile River from a raised riverbank.

Enjoy sundowners above the Nile River at Nile Safari Lodge; take a breather poolside at Makanyi Private Game Lodge; Experience a sunset like not other at Bakuba Lodge

Pumulani Lodge, Lake Malawi, Malawi: Gaze over the sunset flickering over the waters of Lake Malawi in this stunning infinity pool. Set on top of a hill in this fascinating part of the world, one could be forgiven for thinking they’ve found paradise. When you’re not treading water in the pool, head down to the lake-shore bar for cocktails on the beach.

Best for immersing yourself in your surroundings

Just when you thought your experience of these destinations could not get better… These pools will make you feel like you can reach out and touch the forest, ocean, mountains or river nearby.

Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, Kalagala Island, Nile River, Uganda: Watch the fierce rapids of the mighty Nile River come tumbling right past from the cool, calm comfort of the Lemala Wildwaters swimming pool. A visit to this remote and wild section of the Nile is like stepping back in time.

The Nile River churns past at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, offering one of the best pools one can experience

Denis Private Island, Seychelles: Does the idea of an infinity pool on a private tropical island seem like overkill? It isn’t, trust us. Rinse off the sea salt and float about in the shade, cocktail in hand.

Sundy Praia, Príncipe Island, São Tomé and Príncipe: Hidden in the veritable jungle, Sundy Praia is one of several historical plantations now overtaken by the wild forests of Príncipe. The crystal waters of the infinity pool merge perfectly with those of the Atlantic Ocean just beyond.

Track and Trail River Camp, bordering South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Spend whole afternoons in this pool with views across the Luangwa river, surrounded by the sounds of the bush. Track and Trail River Camp is located on a breath-taking spot overlooking the South Luangwa National Park.

Denis Private Island is picture-perfect; view the river below while poolside at Track and Trail River Camp; Sundy Praia’s pool is perched above the Atlantic Ocean

Jua Retreat, Zanzibar, Tanzania: Situated in the southeast of Zanzibar on the tip of the Michamvi peninsula, Jua Retreat’s beaches and immersion into nature promise an extraordinary experience. This pool, mere metres from the beach, offers the chance to soak up the sea air in the cool respite of one of Africa’s most beautiful pools.

Breathe in the sea air while having a refreshing dip at Jua Retreat

Best for true luxury

As if the food, service, surroundings and safari are not enough: these pools epitomise the luxury offered by their respective establishments – and are perfectly selfie-worthy to boot!

Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana: Jack’s Camp is resplendent in draped muslin and canvas – as is its pool. Shelter from the oppressive midday heat beneath the folds of the tent – a homage to a forgotten era of safari.

The iconic 1940s-style interiors at Jack’s Camp offer old-world luxury

Chikunto Safari Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Boutique luxury ecolodge Chikunto is located on the iconic ‘Big Bend’ site overlooking the Luangwa River in South Luangwa National Park in Luangwa Valley. The saltwater counter-current swimming pool overlooks a waterhole, providing an inviting space to cool off and relax, or even get some exercise – in between adventuring in the bush.

The Motse, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Kalahari, South Africa: From the landmark Korannaberg mountains to the grassy, red dunes rippling away to the horizon, this vast tract of Kalahari wilderness is one of the most atmospheric destinations on our list.

The Oyster Box, Umhlanga Beachfront, South AfricaThe Oyster Box does nothing in half measures – unapologetic grandeur and lavish interiors adorn every corner of this exclusive luxury hotel. Naturally, the swimming pool would have to live up to the standard throughout the rest of the hotel, which it does in absolute style.

Africa Geographic Travel
True romance at the Motse in Tswalu in one of Africa’s best pools; Chikunto Safari Lodge offers a boutique luxury ecolodge experience; the Oyster Box offers an iconic view of the Umhlanga lighthouse

THIS WEEK

Victoria Nile River Lemala Wildwaters
Fancy going off-radar on an island in the Victoria Nile River, Uganda? Go here for the best prices at Lemala Wildwaters plus many others.

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Tuskers hunted + best photos + 3 days in Vic Falls

A lucky few of you may be reading this newsletter from bed, the beach or while watching wildlife at a favourite waterhole – as a string of April holidays around the globe come as splendid respite. Perhaps you’re spending the temporary quietening of the mad rush dreaming up new travel exploits. Never fear, as teamAG’s wheels keep on turning!

I highly recommend drawing travel inspiration from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery below. I’m blown away by the diverse subject matter in this week’s selection, including a number of allegories on life and death from Chobe, Kruger and Sossusvlei, and even skateboarders “shredding the patriarchy” in Morocco. There are only two weeks left to get your entries in, so don’t miss out.

On a nauseating note, trophy hunters in Botswana have killed two of the largest elephants on the continent. The outcry on our social media pages at this news was immense, and with good reason. That an elephant hunt of any kind – never mind of a large tusker – could be allowed in an important elephant-migration corridor boggles the mind. Read more in our first story.

Knowing the size of animal populations in protected areas and reserves is at the heart of effective conservation strategies. Those in the know predict that one day, wildlife will be counted by drones and AI. Read how researchers are laying down the foundations for this in our second story.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Not all that long ago, we were just another species wandering the globe, subject to the same whims of weather and fortune as any other wild creature. So it is only natural that evidence of that time remains.

One such example is our relationship with honeyguides, which probably goes back to the time of Homo erectus. Certain members of this bird family will guide people to beehives so that they can feast on the spoils once the useful humans have broken open the hive. Seasoned travellers among you probably knew that, but did you know that in northern Tanzania, this guidance increases the Hazda tribe members’ bee-raiding success rate by 560%? The Boran people of East Africa and the Yao honey-hunters of Mozambique also have a unique call to attract the bird and begin the search.

The sad thing? As these traditional ways of life gradually disappear from human existence, the “guiding” instinct of the honeyguide will vanish entirely …


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunters-kill-two-of-africas-biggest-elephants-botswana/
TUSKERS HUNTED
Trophy hunters have killed two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/counting-animals-the-technology-helping-conservationists/
COUNTING ANIMALS
Counting wildlife in Africa’s massive protected wild areas can be a complicated process. Read how technology can help

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-10/
BEST PHOTOS
Check out this week’s Photographer of the Year entries. Only two weeks left to enter! Cash prizes and a Botswana safari are up for grabs


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

And now – for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.

OR

Enjoy a quick break (or safari add-on) at Africa’s adventure capital. Victoria Falls is massively famous for many excellent reasons. Repeat visitors or newbies will enjoy chunks of wall-to-wall action and swathes of chill time staring in awe at the smoke that thunders. This is a 3-day quick fix that we can massage to suit your ideal time in heaven.


WATCH: 72 seconds of safari heaven to encourage you to get our APP and start planning your safaris (01:12). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 10

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

 

Photographer of the Year
A blue crane – rare in most parts of South Africa – thriving with chicks in the Garden Route. Albertinia, Western Cape, South Africa. © Deon Oosthuizen
Photographer of the Year
Victor in a game between siblings, a cheetah cub claims a triumphant spot atop a leadwood stump. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Mattheuns Pretorius
Photographer of the Year
White-fronted bee-eaters take flight. The Aloe Farm, Hartbeespoort, North West, South Africa. © Sean Davis
Photographer of the Year
Luscious locks at sunrise. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald
Aerial abstract. A bird’s-eye view of Sossusvlei reveals life sprouting from the dunes. Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia. © Lucy Gemmill
Photographer of the Year
Collared pratincole in full-wing stretch. Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Tiny dragon with penetrating gaze. Rough-scaled bush vipers are hard to spot in their preferred hideaways of dense vegetation, where they are well camouflaged. Uganda. © Bobby Bok
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Strandwolf in miniature at dawn. A brown hyena walks amongst the impressive red dunes as it returns to its den site. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia. © Brendon White
Photographer of the Year
Mud on canvas. An elephant gets sloppy during a mud bath. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Shrouded ambition. Phinda Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Brendon White
Photographer of the Year
‘Shred the patriarchy’. 23-year-old Hilam’s portrait on a rooftop in Casablanca forms part of a series of the same name, focusing on the empowerment of Moroccan women in marginalised communities through subcultural expressions of identity. Morocco. © Chantal Pinzi
Photographer of the Year
A lucky shot as a leopard returns to its carcass. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Deon Kelbrick
Photographer of the Year
The elegant motion of a little bee-eater in full dive. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Obligations of youth. Frollicking in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ernest Porter
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Allegory of life and death. Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Hendri Venter
Photographer of the Year
A pair of blue-billed teals take downtime from dabbling, reflections floating on the water’s surface. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Aarti Shah
Photographer of the Year
Fade to fynbos. A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an Erica shrub. Garden Route Botanical Gardens, George, South Africa. © Brendon White
Photographer of the Year
Scaled enchanter. A green bush viper survives in the last remnants of the once-great Kakamega Forest. Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse
Photographer of the Year
Red bishop showing off. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Muddy cakewalk. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Sean Koekemoer
Photographer of the Year
Dangerous catch. A crocodile drags its baboon prey to the water. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Tania Cholwich
Photographer of the Year
Yellow bishop hawking flying ants. Greystone Nature Preserve, Harare, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Africa Geographic Travel

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

The surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. Two massive bulls have been killed in the last few weeks in northern Botswana. The tusks of the two bulls each weigh more than 100 pounds and 90 pounds respectively – marking them as among Africa’s largest elephants.

The 100-pounder

The 100-pounder tusker is the largest elephant to be hunted in Botswana since 1996, according to contributors on AfricaHunting.com. The professional hunter involved is Leon Kachelhoffer and the elephant was hunted in the area known as NG13 (see map below). The location of the hunt is significant – refer to the closing discussion below.

Tusk dimensions:
Tusk 1: Weight 105.6 pounds (48kg) | length 238.76 cm (7,83 feet) | circumference 49.5cm (19.5 inches)
Tusk 2: Weight 95.7 pounds (43.5kg) | length 223.52 cm (7.33 feet) | circumference 49,5cm (19,5 inches)

Editorial note: We contacted Leon Kachelhoffer with the following request: “In the interests of transparency and accurate reporting, could you answer a few questions? We would like to clarify the nationality of your client, the total amount paid by the client and how that amount is distributed to the various suppliers and communities.”  He responded by advising us that he is “a bit busy at the moment”. We will update this post if he does come through with the requested information. FURTHER UPDATE: Our follow up report is worth reading.

Trophy hunters
The 100-pounder tusker recently hunted in NG13, northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.
The hunted elephant’s tusks weighed 201.3 pounds combined. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The 90-pounder

The 90-pounder (estimate provided by AfricaHunting.com) was recently hunted by Johan Calitz Safaris, also in northern Botswana. At this stage, we have no further information about this elephant.

Trophy hunters
90-pounder elephant hunted recently in northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The big picture

Botswana hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, largely because of historically sound conservation practices and a dominant photographic tourism industry. Elephants migrate seasonally across much of southern Africa (particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation AreaKAZA), with Botswana and Zimbabwe hosting the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlement, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles – forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels. Read this research for more information about the impact of trophy hunting on elephant movements.

Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of tree cover.

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

Comment from our CEO Simon Espley:

“The 100-pounder hunt took place in NG13 – which is in the elephant migration corridor that KAZA hopes will help reduce human-elephant conflict. Angola and Zambia have large tracts of suitable elephant habitat and the KAZA strategy is to ensure that wildlife migration corridors remain free of obstacles and fear zones – so that elephants can again move freely between the KAZA countries and place less pressure on Botswana’s people and ecosystems. The location of this hunt pegs NG13 as a ‘fear zone’ (see research link above) for elephants – resulting in this particular hunt being damaging to Botswana’s wish to reduce human-elephant conflict and so improve the lives of its people.

The surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of the selection of large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of tuskers from the African landscape.”

Counting animals – the technology helping conservationists

Counting animals - the technology helping conservationists
Spotting animals is easier from a helicopter, but more expensive.

Counting wild animals can be a complicated process, particularly when estimating populations in some of Africa’s massive protected wild areas. Yet policymakers and conservationists need to make the best possible decisions regarding the programmes put in place to conserve certain species, especially where limited budgets are available.

Consistent analysis is vital to monitoring population trends over the years and proactively identifying potential threats and problems, rather than attempting to rectify population declines after the fact. Now scientists working with Save the Elephants and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) have shown how technology can be used to make aerial population surveys more accurate.

Counting animals - the technology helping conservationists
A plane flies over a herd of elephants in Tsavo National Park during an aerial count

Typically, aerial wildlife counts are considered a more accurate method for counting animals, particularly in open spaces and where larger animal species are concerned. The standard method is to fly systematic reconnaissance flights over transects or along a survey line, with a ‘rear-seat-observer’ counting the number of animals within the transect or within a specific distance of the line. These numbers are used as sample units, and the population is extrapolated from there using various statistical methods. The researchers compared this method to a newly-devised ‘oblique-camera-count’ over Tsavo National Park. They concluded that human counters missed approximately 14% of the elephants, 60% of the giraffe, 48% of the zebra and 66% of the larger antelope. This, in turn, suggests that aerial counts have resulted in significantly undercounted wildlife populations.

Counting animals - the technology helping conservationists
Elephants from the air. This is the first study where continuous oblique imagery was acquired over complex terrestrial environments in Africa

This is not as a result of any negligence or lack of expertise on the part of the counters – animals can be hidden under dense vegetation, or cryptically coloured. Safety concerns mean that the plane has to maintain a specific altitude and speed, so counters only have a maximum of 7 seconds to count a particular area. Added to that is the inevitable variability as a result of aircraft type, ground speed, altitude, sample strip width and observer fatigue and the fact that using a helicopter to allow for more thorough counting is prohibitively expensive.

Africa Geographic Travel

While these limitations had long been recognised, this is the first study of its kind where continuous oblique imagery (more suited to areas where animals might be resting under trees than imagery taken from directly overhead) was acquired over the complex terrestrial environments in Africa. Tsavo was chosen because wildlife counts had been planned for that period but it also presented challenges due to high ambient temperatures, strong winds and turbulence. The cameras were mounted to mimic the viewing perspective of the human counters. The images were later analysed by a team of interpreters who methodically worked through and enlarged thousands of images to identify and count animals.

At this stage, the authors of the study acknowledge that this process of image interpretation is labour intensive, as the interpreters went through over 200 images a day for nine months. Thus, they explain that this is just the starting point in the move towards more automated counting by machine learning where, at the very least, a software program can flag the potential presence of an animal. As technology improves, so will the ability to conduct aerial counts more accurately and cost-effectively.

Counting animals - the technology helping conservationists
These nine oryx are almost invisible in shadow conditions

As Save the Elephants has previously explained in an annual report, ever-changing technology has enormous implications for the conservation sphere. From specialised recognition software, scientists have already developed algorithms that recognise individual zebras and leopards. This information can only serve those tasked with protecting wilderness areas and the animals that call them home. Says Frank Pope, CEO of Save the Elephants: “Counting wildlife is critical for management but is expensive and surprisingly hard. Modern cameras mounted on aircraft can greatly improve accuracy, but counting the wildlife in the hundreds of thousands of images that result is impractical. Artificial intelligence holds the key to processing the images, and making these surveys cheaper as well as more precise. One day wildlife will be counted by drones and AI – what we’re doing is laying the foundations for that future.”

Counting animals - the technology helping conservationists
These animals would not be detected had the cameras been mounted vertically

Resources

The full study can be accessed here: “Comparing an automated high-definition oblique camera system to rear-seat-observers in a wildlife survey in Tsavo, Kenya: Taking multi-species aerial counts to the next level”, Lambrey, R., Pope, F., Shadrack, N., et al, (2020), Biological Conservation

The Save the Elephants annual report referenced can be accessed here.

THIS WEEK

Comment – teamAG
That safari feeling! Visit our app for the best prices at Pungwe Safari Camp (Manyeleti, Greater Kruger) and other authentic African lodges

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Moremi glamping + best pics + tiger farming + Chobe developments

So we all SURVIVED one overpaid Hollywood narcissist (OHN) bitch-slapping another OHN on stage while a coterie of OHN’s gawked and then applauded. Moving on swiftly.

The Botswana government is trying to force-feed its good people a very bitter lemon. Our third story below is a classic case of political manoeuvring at the cost of the environment and an already established economy. That the Batswana need FAR MORE direct involvement in the tourism industry is not in doubt – that has to happen. But killing the goose that lays the golden eggs is short-sighted and naive. Time will reveal the shady dealings and identity of the predetermined beneficiaries. Walks away shaking his head …

And finally, from the maladroit to the RIDICULOUS, there is this. Lab-grown lion and tiger meat for sale. Laugh or cry – your choice

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The mornings have turned crisp and the leaves are yellowing here in a fresh Autumn Johannesburg. To stay warm, I’m turning my attention to toastier destinations. This week we explore the wonders of a mobile glamping safari in Moremi Game Reserve – an AG expedition that’s not to be missed. Check out our second story.

The Week 9 entrants to Photographer of the Year have also been out and about in the African sun – and they’ve brought back incredible, award-worthy images. This week’s gallery is filled with rare species, otherworldly treescapes, and some interesting creatures in some, ahem, passionate positions. Check these out below.

Our third story focuses on Botswana’s dubious call for tenders for 8 new lodges in Chobe NP. We’re also delving into the stark reality of South Africa’s big-cat farming industry. Illegal tiger and lion breeding is still rampant in the country, despite Barbara Creecy announcing plans for a complete ban on the captive-lion industry. See how this illegal trade threatens wild populations of these animals across the world in our final story below.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

It is no secret that our relationship with alcohol goes back a very long way. As far back as there have been people, they have been finding new and inventive ways to ferment things. In many countries, indulgence in the Bacchanalian delights has translated into an enormous public health concern.

But did you know that this love of liquor may well link to our evolutionary history? The theory is (appropriately) called the “drunken monkey” hypothesis and suggests that the attraction has its roots in early dietary requirements. Scientists recently proved that spider monkeys in Panama prefer fruits with a higher ethanol content – quite possibly because they can metabolize the alcohol and harness additional calories. So, in theory, people have a penchant for booze because our early, fruit-eating ancestors derived nutritional rewards from it. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective), we are no longer limited to the 2% alcohol content of slightly “off” fruit, hence people making monkeys of themselves …


Story 1
BEST PHOTOS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-9/
Award-worthy images of the African continent in our Week 9 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Get your entries in now!

Story 2
MOREMI MAGIC
https://africageographic.com/stories/moremi-bucket-list-mobile-safari/
Explore Moremi on a mobile glamping safari with expert guides: 5 spots open in AG’s May expedition

Story 3
NEW CHOBE DEVELOPMENTS
https://africageographic.com/stories/botswana-to-develop-8-new-lodges-on-chobe-riverfront/
Botswana’s plans for eight new lodges in Chobe NP, despite recommendations and regulations against developments, have angered environmentalists

Story 4
TIGER FARMING
https://africageographic.com/stories/big-cat-farming-and-illegal-tiger-trade-in-south-africa/
South Africa’s illegal tiger trade and farming of other big cats threaten the wild populations of these animals across the world


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

Come get it while it’s still warm!
A last-minute cancellation means that we can offer a VERY SPECIAL price for this dream glamping safari in late May. Six days in intoxicating Khwai and Moremi for US$2,380 per person is a steal (5 places available). There is also one seat left for a late April departure for US$2,215. Fully-catered mobile safaris that will reboot your life. For further info also refer to our story above.

And, for the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days


WATCH: South Africa’s vervet monkeys survive in urban spaces (03:31). Click here to watch

Botswana to develop 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront?

The decision by the Botswana government to call for tenders for the development of eight lodges of 75 beds each on the Chobe Riverfront within Chobe National Park (CNP) has raised concerns amongst stakeholders and environmentalists.

This process seems to be going ahead, despite stipulations in the current gazetted CNP management plans that no new lodge developments should take place within the park. Antagonists are questioning the Botswana government’s commitment to wildlife conservation and raise concerns that this tender process is being fast-tracked via allegedly illegal and unconstitutional means.

The government also appears to have disregarded existing USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review recommendations that no further lodges be developed within the national park. In this regard, the recently edited draft CNP Management Plan (which has not yet been gazetted) goes against advice by consultants as evidenced by the existing management plan.

The country’s Ministry of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism recently invited citizen-owned companies and consortiums to submit ‘expressions of interest’ to lease eight lodge sites within an area on the Chobe Riverfront , with little notice provided and reportedly without following due process – threatening the survival of Chobe National Park. The eight lodge sites measure three hectares each along the Chobe River and are spaced two kilometres apart. Tender processes for three additional lodge sites (totalling 11) proposed in the updated draft management plan – in the Madamboza and Ngwezumba Medium Intensity Use zones – have not yet been initiated.

The Ministry’s invitation sent earlier this year for Expressions of Interest (EOI) called for parties to submit ‘Management Plans’ related to the sites in question – for the development and operation of tourism sites lease periods of fifty years. Applicants were expected to attend a compulsory site visit to proposed sites on 3 March of this year, and EOI applications were due on 21 March. No affected entities or stakeholders were given the opportunity to consult and discuss the proposed development of lodges before the EOI invitation was published.

Various stakeholders, including public and private corporates, SMMEs, owner-operated establishments, NGOs and private citizens (under the name Concerned Stakeholders Chobe District) filed a formal opposition to these development plans in a Letter of Objection on 7 March. Various concerns were raised by the parties, stating that the “clandestine” manner in which government rushed the tender process raises suspicions of illegal and perhaps even unconstitutional conduct by the Ministry.

“The rushed time frame offered on that brief public notification to participate in the EOI was unrealistic and provides ample speculation to the legality and inclusiveness of the process,” states the Letter of Objection. “It begs the question, had select participants already been established/offered the chance to tender before the all-too-brief public notice was made?”

Africa Geographic Travel
Botswana to develope 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront
Stakeholders opposing the new Chobe NP lodge sites fear overdevelopment could threaten the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and existing tourism operations.

Botswana’s government appears to be fast-tracking the initial allocation of land in order to speed up the allocation of the sites and allocation of land to empower Batswana. This was related during a session of Parliament at the end of March by the Minister of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism, Philda Kereng, who stated that the management plan had been updated with technical advice and in fact showed that up to 11 lodge developments could be established on the Chobe Riverfront. “The sites that could be built there are 11 [sic] but we are going for eight because we don’t want high traffic there,” she said. Furthermore, Kereng stated that bid winners would conduct EIAs and then incorporate these into their specific plans for the sites.

This is a complete about-turn by the government, which in recent years (under different administration) rejected proposals for development within the CNP Riverfront, including for the establishment of an elephant orphan sanctuary, the construction of a communications tower by Botswana’s telecommunications regulator and a lodge proposed by the Botswana Defence Force (BDF) Welfare Trust Fund. At the time, the Department of Environmental Affairs stated no further development of lodges within the CNP should be considered as the environmental and long-term economic impacts of such developments far outweigh any perceived short-term economic benefits. In the 2017 rejection of the BDF’s proposed lodge, the Department stated the increase in the carrying capacity of the area created by one new lodge on the Chobe Riverfront  would “significantly put pressure on the environment, the natural resources and the Chobe River front [sic] area.” Only five years later, the government is pushing for the development of eight lodges in this area.

In a further twist, consultants to the USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review noted with concern that updated versions of the Management Plans in question appear to have been altered after they signed off on their approvals.

Consultant Lin Cassidy requested that the names of the USAID-funded team be removed from the latest approved plans, stating “we have learned that versions of [these] management plans…. that we submitted to the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) and which were accepted and approved by DWNP, may have been changed since our submission and completion of our contract.”

The Hospitality and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB) has added its voice to those in opposition to the developments, stating these will have a “very significant impact” on the Chobe Riverfront by increasing congestion and environmental pollution, restricting animal movement and “placing increased pressure on already threatened species such as the Chobe bushbuck” – especially during the lodge construction process. Once lodges are up and running, the maximum 75 beds for each facility would potentially mean 600 more people in the park at peak times – in addition to support staff for each lodge.

While the stakeholders are not in opposition to economic upliftment and the creation of employment opportunities, there are major concerns that the proposed developments will threaten the environmental wellbeing of the national park, and that the tender process has been unconstitutional. The proposed developments could contribute to human-wildlife conflict, threatening animal populations that are already contending with encroaching agricultural developments and human settlements. The new lodges will result in the loss of 8km of wildlife corridors and up to 8km of wildlife-viewing roads within an already limited road network. “The impact of increasing an already high-traffic volume by an estimated minimum of 50 game viewing vehicles will be devastating to the quality of the tourist experience and will certainly change wildlife behaviour and distribution,” states the Letter of Objection. “The myriad environmental impacts seem not to have been considered at all.”

The letter raises concerns that expansion of these lodge sites, which are bounded by the main road to the south and annually flooded plains to the north, can only occur laterally east and west, consuming more river frontage and exacerbating the degradation of the ecosystem.

Further objections to the tender process have been raised by young tourism entrepreneurs, who say the specifications, which require companies to own existing tourism licences, favour established businesses and do not support the creation of opportunities for the youth of Botswana, reports Mmegi Online.

“Our interpretation is that only companies that are operational and own a tourism-related business are favoured,” reads a complaint by Eco Tours director, Othusitse Ranko. “It is our considered view that the above is discriminating to individuals and companies, especially the youth who haven’t had an opportunity before to own and operate tourism-related facilities and who by default won’t have the required tourism licence.”

Stakeholders opposing the developments are in agreement that the oversaturation of the market by businesses is unsustainable and could lead to all-round collapse – of both the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and of existing tourism operations within CNP. “The jewel of Botswana requires protection,” read the objection by HATAB, “and thus we encourage our government, developmental and environmental partners to protect our parks for the benefit of our posterity.”

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 9

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

Photographer of the Year
Stand off. A young Cape cobra and ground squirrel locked in a staredown at Nossob campsite. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Chris Burczak
Photographer of the Year
Keeping a close eye on proceedings. Grevy’s zebra. Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya. © Andy Campbell
Photographer of the Year
An early morning kudu kill at Gwarrie Pan. Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa. © Antionette Morkel
Photographer of the Year
Broad-billed roller in upward lift after skimming the water. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Goodbye, cruel world. A crab spider feeds on a jumping spider. Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie
Photographer of the Year
A giant kingfisher displays its catch of a Mozambique tilapia. Intaka Island Wetlands, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Sleepy hollow. The nocturnal Ankarana sportive lemur, endemic to northern Madagascar, peers out from its daytime hiding spot. Ankarana Special Reserve, Madagascar. © Johan Siggesson
Photographer of the Year
Backyard brawl. Two black-backed jackals in a territorial squabble at Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Chris Kinross
Photographer of the Year
Fisherwomen of Zanzibar check their nets for the morning catch. © Cohan Zarnoch
Photographer of the Year
Samplings the hors d’oeuvres. An aardwolf savours the tasty morsels of a termite mound. Kimberley, South Africa. © Dewald Tromp
Photographer of the Year
A bateleur takes off from the Cubitje Quap waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ed Aylmer
Photographer of the Year
Two Cape porcupines – Africa’s largest rodents – amble about moments before sunset. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ernest Porter
Photographer of the Year
Uninvited guests. A crab spider battles stowaways on its bee prey. Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Suddenly stormy. A moment of passion captured on the fifth day of mating. Olare Orok Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Mohammad Murad
Photographer of the Year
Everything the light touches. Hamadryas baboons settle in at their night-time resting spot before sunset. Awash National Park, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
Photographer of the Year
Quiver trees stretch out towards starry skies. Keetmanshoop, Namibia. © Jens Cullmann
Photographer of the Year
A chimpanzee peers up at a commotion of cascading fruit, urine and branches falling from overhead. Just like the photographer, he seems concerned he may be the target. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Johan Siggesson
Photographer of the Year
A young man from the Kara Tribe in Omo Valley holds a prized goat, enveloped in a cloud of dust. Ethiopia. © Alex Stoll
Photographer of the Year
Flamingos flying over Lake Magadi. The mineral deposits and floating brine in the lake reflect sunlight, forming colourful and constantly changing patterns. Kenya. © Yang Jiao
Photographer of the Year
A Cape fox kit gives in to anticipation, rushing out to meet its mom returning with a mouse gift. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
A leopard sneaks in under the fenceline of Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. Hoedspruit, South Africa. © Owen Gröbler
Photographer of the Year
An innocent snack. A lioness of the Maasai Mara Lookout Pride with freshly hunted warthog piglet. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Johan Siggesson
Photographer of the Year
A scuffle at Matabole Hide. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Rodger Bowren
Photographer of the Year
Will he or won’t he? A red-billed firefinch hot on the tail of a flying ant. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Barry Launder
Photographer of the Year
Red-hot love. Red-headed flies caught in a moment of passion. Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie
Photographer of the Year
A young male crosses a flowing river with determination. Dinokeng Game Reserve, South Africa. © Stefan Toerien
Photographer of the Year
The African bullfrog burrows underground, waiting for the exact right amount of rainfall that will facilitate a successful breeding season. After ample summer rains, dozens emerge to compete aggressively for breeding rights. Okonjima Nature Reserve, Namibia. © Susanna Lewis de Amable
Photographer of the Year
A young leopardess eyes out the remnants of her steenbok prey, hanging in the fork of a tamboti tree. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Todd Skinner
Photographer of the Year
Mother of the year. Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
Photographer of the Year
Contact. This zebra lifted its head just as the photographer was capturing an abstract portrait of the zebras’ stripes. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Johan Siggesson
Photographer of the Year
Portrait d’un canard. An artistic crop of a yellow-billed duck preening and displaying its striking feathers. Intaka Island Wetlands, Cape Town. © Braeme Holland

Moremi: bucket-list mobile safari

If the thought of glamping in Botswana’s Big 5 wilderness appeals to your sense of freedom and adventure, you may be ticking a magical Moremi safari off your bucket list before you know it. Moremi Game Reserve is in the renowned Okavango Delta. We are offering an extraordinary, fully-catered mobile safari expedition to Moremi with a touch of pampering and minimal effort on your part – only five spots are open in our upcoming May expedition. You could soon find yourself gliding through the waters of the Okavango on a mokoro, indulging in the local knowledge of an expert guide who’ll leave no stone unturned to unlock Moremi’s secrets, and falling asleep to the sounds of lion roars and hyena cackles piercing the darkness. Why settle for five stars when you can have five million?

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari
Big 5 sightings abound in Moremi

No-fuss mobile camping adventure

This experience is designed for adventurers longing to explore Botswana’s most pristine and wild areas – from Moremi’s Xaxanaka and 3rd Bridge areas to magnificent Khwai and the eastern regions of the Okavango Delta – without the hassle. A hospitality team takes care of all the practicalities, from setting up and breaking camp in Meru-style tents at every destination, cooking three delicious meals a day over an open fire and expert guiding while exploring the wilderness. The accommodation in spacious mobile canvas tents includes beds with linen and fleece blankets, en-suite bucket showers, comfortable bush toilets, open kitchen, mess area, and campfire hearth.

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari
Mobile camps are set up for guests every night, and include fireside comfort, Meru-style tents with comfortable beds, full catering by expedition chefs, en-suite bathrooms, and prime-time stargazing

In between various daytime adventures and game drives, safari-goers can float along the waters of the Delta on a mokoro, which provides the opportunity to silently approach unsuspecting wildlife. Witnessing an elephant splashing about in the water, sneaking up on otters or viewing hippos and crocodiles at eye level is a profound experience, both hypnotic and exhilarating.

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari
A mokoro safari offers a fascinating look into the Okavango Delta’s ecosystems

After mornings and afternoons spent ambling through the bushveld in the true spirit of African adventure, guests arrive back at camp for sundowners around the fire (don’t wander too far – lest you stumble upon a curious lion or hyena). Evenings are spent stargazing while staying warm around the campfire as dinner is prepared by hosts.

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari
Experience Moremi’s wilderness from a mokoro, on your own personal game drive, or even on foot

Moremi’s pristine wilderness

The fascinating habitats of the Okavango Delta make for a safari paradise. Exploring this with your group’s safari vehicle and local guide with in-depth knowledge of the area means the opportunity to come face to face with the Big 5, hyena, wild dog, cheetah, and the more scarce but equally desirable creatures such as aardwolf and pangolin (which do require a dash of good luck). There is a great deal of freedom when on safari in this area – night drives, walking safaris, and even off-roading are allowed. Birding is prolific, with over 400 species recorded, including Pel’s fishing owl, coppery-tailed coucal and iconic colonies of seasonal carmine bee-eaters.

Africa Geographic Travel
Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari
Listen through the tent canvas for the roaring of lions

Unwind through the rhythm of the wild

When AG CEO Simon Espley returned from this bucket-list adventure, his time on this bushveld escape had him returning infinitely nourished. “There’s a rhythm to this mobile safari that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind,” he says. “Time takes on a different meaning, perhaps because you have more of it. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars and owls. You’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you.”

Moremi bucket list mobile safari
Enjoy relaxing fireside in the mobile camp, which is set up by the hospitality team

 

Big cat farming and the illegal tiger trade in South Africa

South African farmers illegally breed tigers and other big cats for sale into the luxury goods and traditional medicine markets. This illegal tiger trade and associated big cat farming threatens the wild populations of these animals across the world, as illegal networks launder wild-poached and captive-bred animals and their body parts.

This and other revelations are contained in a new report compiled by the South African office of animal-welfare organisation FOUR PAWS. Note that in mid-2021, South Africa’s Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment (DFFE), Barbara Creecy, announced plans for a complete ban on the controversial captive-lion breeding industry – but despite that, the industry remains firmly in place.

The global captive tiger population is three times the size of the remaining wild population

Other big cats bred and trophy hunted in South Africa for export include lions, leopards and jaguars. The report focuses on the captive-tiger industry in South Africa, but most issues raised also impact the other big cat species.

This commercial trade in tiger parts flouts agreements set out by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) that state “tigers should not be bred for trade in their parts and derivatives.” Report author Kieran Harkin says: “It is clear that South Africa is overtly allowing tigers and other big cats to be intensively bred for commercial trade in their body parts. This is unacceptable as the farming of tigers for commercial trade has detrimental effects on wild tiger populations. South Africa is playing a significant role in contributing to the decline of a species that is non-native to Africa. They need to shut down this industry to help reverse the decline of all big cats and not just the tiger.”

“The lack of effective regulations for species like tigers combined with the existence of a legal captive-lion industry and bone trade, has allowed a legal industry to flourish, whilst also acting as a conduit for an illegal trade,” says Fiona Miles, Director of FOUR PAWS in South Africa.

The report ultimately calls for South Africa to end its big-cat industry and reverse its role as an exporter of big cats and their parts. This would give the relevant enforcement authorities a better chance to tackle the illegal trade within and from South Africa.

A lack of effective regulations or minimum conditions for species like tigers and lions has allowed a legal industry to flourish

Notable extractions from the report

  • Worldwide, there are an estimated three times as many tigers in captivity (+/- 12,600) as there are in the wild (4,400).
  • The hunting and killing of tigers is permitted in all nine South African provinces.
  • The regulations relating to the keeping, breeding, killing, and trading of tigers are so different between the nine South African provinces as to make effective management and record-keeping impossible.
  • Most live tigers exported went to Vietnam, China and Bangladesh.
The largest number of tigers exported from South Africa was to zoos. The number-one importer of tigers from South Africa is China. © FOUR PAWS
  • The exact number of captive tigers in South Africa is not known. Requests to the provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored, replied to in part or confusing/inaccurate. Similarly, the volume of live tigers and tiger parts traded is unknown.
  • A study of the CITES Trade Database reveals that 359 live tigers and 93 tiger ‘trophies’ were exported from South Africa between 2011 and 2020. In addition, 34 items exported were labelled as code ‘T’ (for commercial purposes) – a direct contravention of CITES Decision 14.69.
  • There are no known tiger zoos or captive breeding facilities that introduce tigers into the wild or maintain studbooks to maintain genetic diversity. This is also a contravention of Cites Decision 14.69, which stipulates that the breeding of captive tigers is restricted to a ‘level supportive only to wild tigers.’
  • CITES records in Egypt indicate that 15 live tigers were imported from South Africa, yet South African records indicate only 4 live tigers exported to Egypt. These discrepancies in CITES records are commonplace and ensure that proper analysis of the scale and nature of trade in wild species and their parts is impossible.
  • Lions: South Africa exported 27,418 lions and lion parts between 2011 and 2020 – the majority of which were captive-bred.
  • Leopards: South Africa exported 61 live leopards (of which 48 were captive-bred), 807 leopard ‘trophies’ and 374 skulls during 2011 and 2020.
  • Big cats bred in South Africa and exported live are facilitating the growth of big cat breeding operations throughout the world.
Requests by FOUR PAWS to provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored or inaccurate. © FOUR PAWS

Recommendations from the report on the lion and tiger trade

As the legal industry has made the tiger trade and trafficking of lion parts easier, the report makes the following recommendations to minimise the negative effects of the intensive tiger- and lion- breeding industry:

  • South Africa should end the commercial breeding of all big cats and the export and commercial trade in live animals and parts.
  • A clause should be introduced whereby current owners can keep their living animals but must stop all breeding and allow the animals to see out their lives naturally – with all welfare needs met.
  • Detection and law enforcement efforts around smuggling should be increased at South Africa’s entry and exit points.
  • Awareness around the modus operandi of wildlife trafficking syndicates should be increased amongst key stakeholders.

    The majority of the 27,418 exported lions and lion parts from South Africa between 2011 and 2020 were captive-bred

Conclusion

South Africa has become a haven for the illicit big-cat breeding industry. It is clear from this report that nobody knows how many big cats are being kept in South Africa or the volume and nature of illegal and legal trade – least of all the relevant authorities required by law to control the industry and maintain accurate records. The burgeoning trade encourages illegal operations and contributes to the demise of wild big-cat populations. Neither international nor South African authorities effectively control the lion or tiger trade, or reign in the burgeoning illicit trade.

Resources

Full report: Harkin, K. & Locke, S. 2022. Year of the tiger? Big cat farming in South Africa: the need for international action. FOUR PAWS.

Read more on the ban of the captive lion industry in South Africa.

Read more on FOUR PAWS and their work in South Africa.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 01 April 2022

Comment - teamAG
Portuguese man-o’-war (Physalia utriculus), False Bay, Cape Town. Previous entry to Photographer of the Year. 

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Awesome photos + talking elephants + Africa’s jackals

The great continent is well and truly open for travel, with restrictions easing up around borders every week. I’m bursting with bliss to see our AG community buzzing with trip plans – plotting voyages to the shores of Lake Kariba, prepping for mountain gorilla treks in Uganda and lacing up boots for walking safaris in Greater Kruger. Our forum is alive with requests for travel and tipping advice, and teamAG’s safari experts are aglow with ideas and inspiration.

Our first story below is a handy guide on the rare and tasty craft beers our travellers can order on their African journeys. We’ve skipped the mass-produced regulars in favour of the special flavours you’ll find nowhere else in the world. I’m sure many of you will soon be toasting your safaris along the Okavango River or watching the sun go down over the Namib Desert with a cold one in hand.

We’re also celebrating the continent’s most underestimated carnivores – daring and endearing jackals. Read our second story to see why they are a favourite for us.

There is only one month left to get your entries in for Photographer of the Year. The extraordinary pics keep rolling in: see our third story to see which images made the cut this week.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Once a year, on April Fool’s Day, a popular social media site shares a crudely manipulated image of wildlife doing something crazy. A few years ago, their chosen joke was a picture of an elephant carrying a lion cub. The caption explained that the mother lioness was tired, and the elephant, in the spirit of peace and love, opted to help her out. The picture went viral, with thousands of comments about how we could learn a thing or two from animals—a perfect example of how people are at their most gullible when they want to believe. And people want to believe that wildlife behaves like children’s stories.

On that, here’s an extraordinary fact that sounds a lot like a hoax (but isn’t). Did you know that there is an elephant in captivity in Korea believed to be capable of mimicking human speech? Koshik can “say” five words in Korean: “hello”, “sit”, “lie down”, “no” and “good”. We are still a long way from knowing everything about elephants’ capabilities. (But we do know they don’t go around helping lion cubs across the road…)


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/6-beers-to-order-on-safari/
BEST BEERS
Our guide to the 6 best locally brewed beers from top-class breweries to enjoy on your African safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/jackals-of-africa-consummate-survivors/
AFRICA’S JACKALS
Jackals are expert opportunists and the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-8/
BEST PICS
Our selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 8 is out now


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

6 ways to enjoy the magnificent MAASAI MARA & SERENGETI


WATCH: Anatomy of a bribe. A riveting exposé by Al Jazeera’s Investigative Unit into corruption in the Namibian fishing industry. This is a story of how foreign companies plunder Africa’s natural resources. (51:11). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 8

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

Photographer of the Year
After trying and failing to hunt a Thomson’s gazelle, young male Ngao rests on top of a hill, swatting flies away with his tail. For a moment, Ngao appears to be shielding his eyes from the sun. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Antonio S. Chamorro
Photographer of the Year
The thorn amongst the roses. A mantis pauses on a rose bush minutes before a dramatic rainstorm breaks. Kathu, Northern Cape, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw
Photographer of the Year
Watch your step. A puff adder slithers across the Lion’s Head hiking trail. Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa. © Tyrone Ping
Photographer of the Year
Black-backed jackals agree to differ at a waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Gerbus Vermaak
Photographer of the Year
Mountain gorillas are capable climbers from a young age, spending much of their day at play, swinging from branches. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Antonio S. Chamorro
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Bed-headed boulder. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Bjorn Hellberg
Photographer of the Year
Hippos wallow in the crystal-clear waters of the flooded Okavango Delta. Botswana. © Dewald Tromp
Photographer of the Year
A black-backed jackal shoots an icy glare on frozen ground. Golden Gate Highlands National Park, South Africa. © Ernest Porter
Photographer of the Year
Changing stripes. Grevy’s zebras in Samburu National Reserve. Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
Photographer of the Year
An African paradise flycatcher feeds bite-sized insects to its chicks in Featherbrooke Estate. Gauteng, South Africa. © Gerbus Vermaak
Photographer of the Year
Hiding in plain sight, a lioness pauses amidst the similarly shaded taupe-hued grasses of Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Mashatu’s future elephants. Photographers at a water-level hide in Mashatu are treated to a herd featuring a variety of youngsters. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Anne-Marie Etienne
Photographer of the Year
A mantis stands out against blue hydrangeas and stormy skies, anticipating a Highveld afternoon thunderstorm. Gauteng, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw
Photographer of the Year
A muddy muddle of fighting hippos. Chobe River, Botswana. © Tim Driman
Photographer of the Year
A young jackal cautiously contemplates the camera, shielded by a fallen tree. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Ilna Booyens
Photographer of the Year
A jellyfish – one amongst hundreds drawn into the shallows of False Bay after days of strong southeasterly winds and rough seas – could easily be mistaken for an otherworldly creature. Cape Town, South Africa. © Keri Muller
Photographer of the Year
Two males take a break from marking their territory along the Auob River. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Peter Winnan
Photographer of the Year
Frog in the throat. A determined Argus reed frog puts up a fight against a south-eastern green snake. This photo was taken at a hide using two small flashes on either side of the camera. Kuleni Game Park, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Tyrone Ping
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Bamboo barre ballet. A golden monkey poses mid plié in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda. © Vladimir Cech Jr
Photographer of the Year
After this Cape fox mother called her cubs out of their den near Kij Kij waterhole, they spent the final moments of the day playing in the last rays of sunshine. As the sun disappeared, they settled down to suckle. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer
Photographer of the Year
Fresh out of its Batesian badger colours, a young cheetah stands frozen and alert in the presence of the photographer. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ernest Porter

6 beers to order on safari

What better way to celebrate a successful safari than to crack open a cold one at the end of a long hot day, take that first refreshing sip and stare at the majesty of Africa around you? For almost as long as there have been people, they have been brewing beer. Across cultures and continents, the bacchanalian discovery of the delicious and intoxicating product of fermented cereals became ingrained in everyday life.

Like the rest of the world, Africa has a long-standing and merry history of brewing beer – both commercially and traditionally. Preparing (and consuming) indigenous beers is still a part of life, especially in rural areas and during customary celebrations. For many tribes, the rituals involved vary depending on specific events and require different vessels and formalities for each. Umqombothi, chibuku, changa’aa, khadi, hydromel… Africa is awash with distinctive traditional brews – some of which are more meal than drink!

While beer enthusiasts may protest in horror, the truth is that the basic beer recipe is not a complex one: some malted barley here, a handful of hops there, plenty of water and enough yeast to get the party started. However, brewers in Africa rely upon sorghum and maize and flavour the product with everything from fruits and flowers to roots and honey. These local techniques have been gradually incorporated in commercial, craft and boutique brewing practices to create flavours unique to each country.

Have a look at our list of unusual favourites below to guide your decision.

 

6 best beers to order on safari
Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s zero-alcohol Hero Original; the Okavango Craft Brewery’s Delta Lager; The Big Five Brewery’s Temstout; Namib Dunes Craft Brewery’s Irish Red; Tiemann Beer’s Wild Dog Shempa Ale; and Twiga Brewery’s Blonde Ale

1. ‘Delta Lager’ from the Okavango Craft Brewery, Botswana

The Okavango Craft Brewery sources their millet from the small-scale farmers around the Okavango Delta – at premium prices. In partnership with the local NGO Ecoexist, the aim is to reward local communities for their efforts to coexist with elephants and stimulate local economies while producing the perfect quality beer to toast your safari in the Delta. Be sure to order one when on your next adventure in this iconic, pristine wetland system.

2. Wild Dog Shempa Ale from Tiemann Beer, Zambia

From the vats of Zambia’s first craft beer producers, the Wild Dog range from Tiemann Beer has taken the country by storm. Zambia is famous for its walking safaris, and the light, flavourful ale is the perfect end-of-day beverage to gulp down while soaking tired feet in the Luangwa River. When next you head to the vast Zambian wilderness playground in search of an authentic, unfussy safari experience on foot, be sure to order a Shempa Ale.

3. Irish Red from Namib Dunes Craft Brewery, Namibia

Beer is to desert as oxpecker is to buffalo: the perfect pair. Beer brewing is a source of national pride in Namibia, and in keeping with this proud tradition, Namib Dunes Craft Brewery has produced some of the best beers for watching the sun go down over the red dunes of the Namib Desert.

4. Twiga Blonde Ale from Twiga Brewery, Tanzania

Operating from the green slopes of Mount Meru in Arusha, Twiga Brewery is a small, independent operation offering hand-crafted beverages of the highest international standard and craftsmanship. As the wildebeest and zebra gallop across the savannah during the Great Migration, take a moment to celebrate a day of extraordinary sightings while sipping on the Twiga Blonde Ale.

Africa Geographic Travel
Crack open a cold one while watching the Great Migration; refresh while overlooking the Namib Desert; or sip on an ale at the edge of the Luangwa River

5. Temstout from The Big Five Breweries, Kenya

From one of the top breweries in Kenya, The Big Five Breweries, this full-bodied beer carries a hint of dark chocolate and, of course, a strong coffee flavour from a country that produced some of the best coffee in the world. Whether heading to the magical Maasai Mara, or to spot tuskers in Tsavo or Amboseli National Parks be sure to keep an eye out for this beer on the menu.

6. Hero Original from Devil’s Peak Beer Company, South Africa

Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s Hero Original presents the ideal solution for those who want to enjoy the crisp taste of a beer from one of South Africa’s premier craft breweries, minus the alcohol. Whether saluting the day surrounded by the magnificent vistas of Cape Town or lounging away in the heat of a South African bushveld afternoon, you can refresh with the non-alcoholic Hero range.

So, what should your order be? Well, for a start, forgo the more commercial brands and take a chance on something more distinctively African.

Want to sample these tasty beers on safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Sip on your favourite African beer at the bery best sundowner spots.

Is beer o’clock the best time of the day? Have a look at our guide to the highs and lows of the safari day.

Did we miss something? Tell us about your safari beer of choice by commenting below.

Jackals of Africa – consummate survivors

A lion’s roar or hyena’s whoop are considered “iconic”. But the song of the jackal is one of the wild’s most hauntingly beautiful sounds, easily on par with spine-tingling wolf howls in other parts of the world. As dusk descends, the haunting lupine melody of the continent’s most underestimated carnivore cuts through the air and raises goosebumps on the skin.

The basics

Nearly anyone on safari is likely to encounter a jackal at some point, often around a lion kill and very seldom at the centre of attention. They are expert opportunists and masterful lurkers with iron-clad stomachs capable of handling everything from rotten carcasses to berries and even lion faeces. As underappreciated species go, jackals are very close to the top of the African safari list. Without the rarity factor, they are generally overlooked or dismissed. This is unfortunate as they are fascinating, intelligent, social and, on occasion, clownish creatures. Besides, any animal that dares to snatch the scraps out from beneath a hungry lion’s nose should be entitled to automatic respect. They are also skilful hunters, particularly the black-backed variety.

Not to be confused with foxes (of which there are several species in Africa, learn more about them here), jackals are taller and stockier than the various members of the Vulpes genus, with longer, more obviously wolf-like facial features. There are two species in Africa – the black-backed and side-striped jackal. Another species, the golden jackal,  inhabits parts of southern Europe and Asia. As the name indicates, the black-backed jackal can be distinguished by the saddle of black (with white patterns) that runs across the centre of the back, while the stripe of the side-stripped jackal is often indistinct.

Jackal and elephant
A black-backed jackal on the prowl near Kasane Forest, Botswana

The side-striped has the more extensive range of the two species and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. They are notably absent in the more arid areas of the southwestern part of Southern Africa, where black-backed jackals reign throughout most of South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. Where the two species do overlap (as they do across much of East Africa), the black-backed jackal seems to dominate, despite being the smaller of the two. This has often been connected to the observation that black-backed jackals appear to hunt more frequently (and hunt bigger prey) than their side-striped cousins. However, whether this is true across all populations and habitat types has yet to be confirmed.

These differences aside, there are several species similarities. Both jackals are omnivorous, with plant matter accounting for over 50% of their diet in some places. They are also both monogamous and territorial.

Jackals of Africa
A side-striped jackal spotted in the Okavango Delta

Quick facts

Black-Backed Jackal Side-Striped Jackal
Mass 6-13kg 6.5-14kg
Shoulder height 38-48cm 35-50cm
Social Structure Monogamous, small family groups Monogamous, small family groups
Gestation Just over two months Just over two months
Number of pups One to nine pups Three to six pups

The lifelong couple

As they are monogamous, there is minimal sexual dimorphism between male and female jackals. The bond between mated pairs is profound and may last for several years – usually the duration of their lifespan. The couples are almost inseparable and cooperate in virtually every aspect of their joint lives. This includes foraging and, on occasion, hunting cooperatively to bring down larger prey. In East Africa, jackals are renowned for a tendency to target Thomson’s gazelle fawns. One member of the duo (or small family) will fend off the spirited defence of the mother while the other lunges for the fawn. There is even anecdotal evidence of jackals using a “fascination display” to lure prey or distract larger predators from their meals. They lie down and squirm comically, attracting curious prey close enough to grab or infuriating a predator to the point that it temporarily forsakes its kill, only for the jackal to leap up and snatch a bite.

The breeding pair will also join forces to defend territories against other jackals, and observational research shows that the death of one partner has dire consequences for the survivor, usually involving the loss of territory and subsequent displacement. Territorial boundaries are ignored when a large carcass is present, and not even the pair’s combined efforts are sufficient to deter trespassers.

Jackals
A territorial disagreement

Playing happy families

A successful couple will raise several litters of puppies throughout their lives, some of which will stay on to help their parents with the subsequent litter before dispersing. The pups are born in a den, which is usually an abandoned aardvark or warthog tunnel, but the female may excavate the tunnel herself. She remains with the helpless pups for up to three weeks or longer until they emerge above ground on wobbly legs. During this time, the male and any older offspring will forage for her and regurgitate food upon their return. As the pups grow and begin to explore, she will join forces with the rest of her family to provide for their voracious appetites. All family members will bravely defend the pups against predators several times their size, snapping and snarling at hyenas or dashing in front of lions to draw them away from the vulnerable puppies. Naturally, this means that having older offspring “helpers” has a direct bearing on pup survival, particularly for larger litters.

Jackal pup
Jackal pups transform from fluffballs into competent predators within a few short months

The tiny pups rapidly transform from cuddly fluffballs to competent predators, and they are already able to hunt for themselves (albeit somewhat unsuccessfully at times) at six months old. They remain with their parents for another two months, after which most will disperse, but some will stay behind as helpers. Research shows that the dominance hierarchy between siblings, particularly pronounced in black-backed jackals, may well play a role in determining which individuals decide to stick around.

A wolf in jackal’s clothing

In 2015, the scientific community was rocked (well, relatively) by the revelation that Africa was, in fact, home to two jackal species, not three as previously believed. The third member – now known as the African wolf – had diverged from the Asian golden jackals well over a million years ago.

African wolf
Not a jackal: the African wolf (Canis lupaster)

Later research revealed that it is a genetically admixed canid with both grey and Ethiopian wolf ancestors. The African wolf (Canis lupaster) looks and behaves exactly like a jackal, showing how classification based on morphology or behaviour alone can be distinctly deceptive.

Advancements in genetic analysis have contributed significantly to the reclassification of many supposedly related species across several prominent mammal families, including the canids. DNA analysis from several studies shows that both the black-backed and side-striped jackals are the basal members of the wolf-like clade. In other words, they diverged very early on and are genetically distinct from the other members like the wolf and coyote (and domestic dog). As such, the IUCN Canid Specialist Group recently recommended that their scientific genus be designated as Lupulella, rather than Canis. The recommended scientific name for the black-backed jackal is Lupulella mesomelas, while that of the side-striped jackal is Lupulella adusta.

Jackals and people

Since the jackal-headed Anubis (okay, so technically, he was an African wolf) first weighed the hearts of the dead, and possibly long before, jackals have played a role in the mythology of many different cultures. In many, they are the bad guy, a cunning trickster, or a sorcerer capable of shape-shifting. In Khoikhoi legends, many of the stories involve the jackal outwitting or betraying the lion. Some of these beliefs persist today, and jackal body parts and pelts are used in traditional medicine by tribes throughout Africa.

Today, however, their biggest threat comes from conflict with farmers, especially those with smaller livestock animals – as jackals will readily hunt lambs. For several centuries, jackals were seen as vermin, and various lethal methods were employed to rid the farms of their presence. Yet, as bigger wildlife species were gradually eradicated from farmlands throughout history, jackals remained, despite being killed in large numbers. Fortunately, today, educational programmes have begun to change attitudes towards the jackals and non-lethal (and more effective) techniques such as guard dogs are used to ensure livestock safety. Despite being persecuted for centuries, jackal numbers are believed to be stable and healthy populations persist across most of their natural range.

Africa Geographic Travel
Jackal scavenger
An opportunistic black-backed jackal taking a chance

Ultimate survivors

For the most part, the human brain is not particularly well designed to grasp the timescale of evolution. It’s a bit like understanding the size of the universe – immense but in a nonspecific way. Yet for aeons, nature has had time to play with different recipes for survival, rejecting failed attempts without mercy and casually throwing environmental curveballs into the mix. Over the years, these forces have shaped teeth, lengthened and fused tarsals and carpals, stretched out trunks, created opposable thumbs and designed wildlife perfectly adapted for their chosen environment and competitors.

Out of this melee, the continent’s two jackal species emerged relatively early on compared to the other dog family members. From then on, these clever little canids have proved repeatedly that they are the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld and should be appreciated as such.

Resources

Browse pics from a fantastic black-backed jackals vs honey badgers sighting.

Enjoy this video of two jackals serenading each other (and their neighbours).

Comment – teamAG – Friday 25 March 2022

Comment - teamAG

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Brilliant pics + elephant auction + Katavi + ultimate Mara safari

Rant alert!

Recently we published our thoughts on the 6 best places to see painted wolves (wild dogs). Of course, you may have suggestions on how to improve on this list – which are always welcome. But here’s the thing: On our Facebook page, every comment focussed on our choice of name for Lycaon pictus – some so AGGRESSIVE that we hid the comments. Not one person on Facebook responded to the advice provided in our story. Not one. Juxtapose that with the comments in our app – every comment was relevant to the topic at hand. This is why we built the app – for relevant, CONSTRUCTIVE discussions. Plus, of course, to find the best prices at Africa’s most authentic camps & lodges. And to make secure donations to conservation projects that make a difference at ground level.

I am so over how social media has become a cesspit of trolls, scams and manipulative algorithms. Moving on. Please GET OUR APP (there is also a desktop version) by scrolling to the prompts below.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Photographer of the Year is picking up steam! With every selection, it becomes harder to narrow down entries to a choice few. Don’t miss our epic Week 7 gallery below.

And if the entries are not enough to inspire longing for adventure, our story on Katavi National Park – Tanzania’s wildest secret – will. This guide to an electrifying safari nirvana, teeming with herds in the dry season, will have you packing your bags.

We’re moving with giants this week, and delving into the challenges of human-elephant conflict. In our third story below, read how beloved super tusker Tolstoy was saved last week after meeting the wrong end of a spear.

Majestic elephants conjure intense emotion in us. It’s no wonder Namibia’s controversial elephant auction has sparked debate. The first captured elephants have now entered the murky muddle of international wildlife trade. Our last editorial below, by conservationist Gail Thomson, is the most balanced view I have read on the matter to date, and is not to be missed.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that we share around 96% of our genome with chimpanzees? Here’s another fun fact – that number is almost meaningless unless you happen to have a relatively comprehensive understanding of the science of DNA. The number jumps around from 96% to 99% for a start, depending on which similarity is measured. Chromosomes, genes, proteins, gene expression, mutations – it all gets very complicated!

Yes, we share many of our genetic building blocks with our closest relatives. But roughly 35 million differences change everything! These differences created the characteristics that make us uniquely human: our permanently bipedal stance, hairless (mostly) bodies and extraordinary intelligence (and frightening capacity for evil). The point is that tiny changes matter. And on a related (ha) note, a reminder that you can download our app and seamlessly donate to 61 vetted conservation organisations. Just a thought…


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-7/
BRILLIANT PHOTOS
The entries are getting tougher to judge as the great pics keep rolling in. Check out our Week 7 selection, and don’t forget to enter.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/katavi-national-park/
WILD KATAVI
Tanzania’s Katavi draws hoards of wildlife in the dry season & flourishes under floodplains in the rainy months

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/super-tusker-tolstoy-treated-for-spear-wound/
TUSKER TROUBLE
Rangers jumped into action to treat super tusker, Tolstoy of Amboseli, for a spear wound following conflict with farmers

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/namibias-elephant-auction-evaluating-the-results/
ELEPHANT AUCTION
Opinion Editorial: balancing conservation, welfare & legality around Namibia’s controversial elephant auction


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

The ultimate Maasai Mara safari for those wanting to push the boundaries of their photography – to achieve THAT image that everyone talks about. Award-winning photographer-guide + a specially modified vehicle for those low-angle shots + off-road driving permits = the perfect combo. Need we say more? August 2022 – 2 places left.


WATCH: Baby elephants rescued from mud in Mana Pools. Footage from two years ago that tugs at the heart-strings (02:45). Click here to watch

Super tusker Tolstoy treated for spear wound

Super tusker Tolstory

Originally published by Big Life Foundation

Super tusker Tolstoy of Amboseli National Park in Kenya is a living natural wonder, carrying some of the largest tusks on the planet. So when the rangers from Big Life Foundation, who preserve the wildlife and habitats of the Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem, don’t see Tolstoy for a while – they go looking.

When Tolstoy’s absence was noticed last week, the rangers set out to search beyond their regular patrol areas. Eventually, they found Tolstoy resting under a tree. All appeared well, until the giant took a step. It was evident that Tolstoy was struggling to walk. After getting closer to get a better view, the rangers could identify the problem: Tolstoy had a puncture wound in the joint on his front right leg.

A wound like this was no accident. Tolstoy is known for raiding crops. He usually returns unscathed from his night-time forays into farmland but, when he is caught in the act of crop-raiding, farmers will do whatever they can to defend their fields. In this case, Tolstoy was speared in the leg. Crop-raiding by elephants can cost a farmer their entire season’s income in one night, and despite Tolstoy being one of Africa’s last remaining ‘super tuskers’, that doesn’t stop farmers from protecting their livelihoods. It is also not the first time this has happened. Tolstoy was treated for three spear wounds in 2018 – injuries that were also received during crop-raiding.

The joint Kenya Wildlife Service/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust mobile veterinary unit was quick to respond, but the decision to treat Tolstoy was not made immediately. Darting an animal of his size, particularly with a wound in a sensitive joint, is extremely risky because the elephant may not be able to stand after treatment. The decision was made to wait 24 hours and see if his condition improved.

Tolstoy super tusker
Tolstoy was darted and quickly treated by the vet team. After receiving a jab to wake up, he retreated to rest in the shade.

The rangers stayed by his side through the waiting period, spending the entire night out with him. However, the wound showed no sign of improvement. The decision was then made to dart him – which was done quickly and professionally. His wound was thoroughly cleaned and treated, and Tolstoy was given antibiotics and painkillers before receiving a jab to wake him up.

With great effort, Tolstoy finally stood and stared back at the treatment team, before retreating into the shade. For now, his prognosis looks good. But he is unfortunately not yet in the clear and Big Life’s rangers will continue to monitor him as his wound heals and he walks the road to recovery. The rangers will also continue to spend their nights out in the farms around Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, keeping elephants safe and helping farmers to protect their crops – in the hopes of preventing similar occurrences in the future.

Learn more about Big Life Foundation’s work or make a donation here

Resources

Want to follow super tuskers on safari in Tsavo and Amboseli? We show you how.

You can also read about AG travel client Roger’s experience searching for super tuskers on the app forum.

Read more about the super tuskers of Tsavo.

Learn about dealing with the challenge of crop-raiding elephants in Tanzania.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 7

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

Photographer of the Year
A storm brewing over the mountains of Golden Gate Highlands National Park forms a striking backdrop to a black wildebeest. South Africa. © Ernest Porter
Photographer of the Year
A baby mountain gorilla pauses during its roll in the grass to examine the remains of lunch. Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. © Yobel Muchang
Photographer of the Year
A bearded vulture eyes out the photographer below. Giant’s Castle, Drakensberg, South Africa. © Juan Venter
Photographer of the Year
Quelea obscura. The sunken hide at Mashatu Game Reserve provided some unusual opportunities, especially when this flock of red-billed queleas took to the skies in front of elephants. Botswana. © Marius Swart
Photographer of the Year
Taking refuge in a delicious monster potplant during a rainstorm, this mantis made a meal of the ants passing by. Gauteng, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw
Photographer of the Year
A flap-necked chameleon sheds its skin. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Chris Collyer
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Road to nowhere. A small herd of gemsbok treks across the dunes in the Namib Desert. Namibia. © Dewald Tromp
Photographer of the Year
Black-winged kite with striped mouse prey in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. South Africa. © Ernest Porter
Photographer of the Year
Light reflects on the early morning dew caught on a moth caterpillar’s setae. Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie
Photographer of the Year
A desert-adapted elephant in Kaokoland reaches for the green leaves of an ana tree. Namibia. © Hesté de Beer
Photographer of the Year
During the day, hippos prefer to stay away from the sun, submerged in mud or water. But their nostrils discretely emerge from time to time to take a breath. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca
Photographer of the Year
Zebra trio of Serengeti National Park. Tanzania. © Hilda le Roux
Photographer of the Year
After a long hot December day near Punda Maria rest camp, an elephant calf takes a rest at its mother’s feet. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Every year, fires burn areas of Botswana’s Okavango Delta. In 2021, fires were more frequent and out of control than in past years, ravaging large sections of pristine wilderness. Many trees in this woodland were scorched to the ground, leaving white ash apparitions from disintegrated trees in between elephant pathways. © James Gifford
Photographer of the Year
Follow the leader. A single wildebeest leads a large group out of the Mara River after a successful crossing. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Janice Katz
Photographer of the Year
A painted reed frog clings to the reeds in a gust of wind. KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Jean Goldstone
Photographer of the Year
A panorama of the ‘Bridge’ – a natural arch in the Spitzkoppe, Namibia. © Julio Castro
Photographer of the Year
Sunrise through the Gannabos Quiver Tree Forest. Niewoudtville, Northern Cape, South Africa. © Marie Knight
Photographer of the Year
A juvenile giant kingfisher displays its Mozambique tilapia catch. Intaka Island Wetlands, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland
Photographer of the Year
A cut-throat finch drinks at a waterhole. Karongwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Mart Mari
Africa Geographic Travel
Photographer of the Year
Not always black and white. A rare capture of a scrap between a white and a black rhino. Botswana. © Muriel Moreau
Photographer of the Year
A matriarch of the Arbore tribe in southern Ethiopia’s Omo Valley poses in front of her home near Lake Chew Bahir. © Alex Stoll
Photographer of the Year
A young female leopard pauses mid-stride to focus on a noise heard through the grasses. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Rian Boshoff
Photographer of the Year
Hyena at sunset. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Shaun Estebeth
Photographer of the Year
A reed frog spends the heat of the day hidden on a blade of grass. Sodwana Bay, South Africa. © Thilo Beck
Photographer of the Year
Abushe, a young boy from the Ari tribe living in Jinka, Omo Valley, has what is believed to be a genetic quirk that gives him these striking blue eyes. Ethiopia. © Alex Stoll
Photographer of the Year
A striped hyena photographed at a water-level hide. Nguruman, Kajiado County, Kenya. © Zhugang Zheng
Photographer of the Year
The rains come too late for this Springbokvlakte quiver tree, which succumbed to the previous year’s drought. |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer

Namibia’s elephant auction: Evaluating the results

Elephants in their quarantine facility

Note from our CEO Simon Espley: ‘This is an emotional topic for most of us. The author of this opinion editorial on Namibia’s elephant auction succinctly differentiates between the science and the ethical issues at play and between fact and speculation. This is a tough read for those of us who believe that there can be no justification for capturing wild elephants and subjecting them to incredible hardships and early death in zoos and other forms of prison. The lucky ones will be moved to large protected areas in Africa, but many will disappear through CITES loopholes into the fog of the wildlife trading industry. That said, it is important to read the facts so that our opinions are informed, and to recognise that solutions have to be found in instances where elephants and humans clash for space and water.’


By Gail Thomson, originally published by Conservation Namibia

Namibia’s decision to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots has to date resulted in the capture and translocation of 37 wild elephants from the Kamanjab and Omatjete areas. Both captures for the elephant auction involved family groups of elephants, with one group translocated to a private reserve in Namibia run by N/a’an ku sê and the other exported to two safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Following the conclusion of these transactions, more details are now available that allow for an evaluation of the decision to auction elephants and its consequences.

The reasons for this tender are covered in detail in a previous article on this topic. Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is both a cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. The dominant land use in these areas is livestock farming, where fencing and water infrastructure (pipes, reservoirs, drinking troughs) are not built to withstand elephants.

The elephant removal plan was thus a short-term action to alleviate some of the conflict by removing elephant herds from high-conflict areas, while simultaneously providing income to the Game Products Trust Fund (GPTF). This Fund does not contribute to MEFT’s overall budget, but is ring-fenced for conservation projects and the Human-Wildlife Conflict Self-Reliance Scheme. Long-term plans that MEFT wants to implement to reduce human-elephant conflict would thus be funded through the GPTF. Offers to pay the GPTF without removing any elephants from the target areas were not aligned with MEFT’s primary objective to reduce elephant numbers and did not include specific amounts of money or detailed plans of action. Such vague promises were therefore not considered valid bids.

Thus far, N$ 4.4 million has been paid to the GPTF by two successful bidders. One of these bidders, the N/a’an ku sê Foundation, translocated 15 elephants from the Omatjete area to their newly established private reserve covering 33,000 hectares. The other successful bidder is game farmer Gerrie Odendaal, who bought the elephant herds and resold them to two safari parks in the UAE.  Since the latter bid involves exporting elephants into captive conditions outside the natural elephant range, it is the more controversial of the two. (Note that another 20 elephants have been sold on auction but are yet to be captured, and their destination yet to be revealed.)

Elephant movements in Namibia
(Left) The coloured marks represent elephant movements in Namibia, and the southern border of Etosha is represented by the upper green line. The herd moved to N/a’an ku sê’s property came from the pale blue area (Omatjete-Kalkfeld-Fransfontein). The herd exported to UAE via quarantine in Gobabis was from the pale green area (near Kamanjab). The core range of desert-adapted elephants is around the dry riverbeds in communal conservancies and protected areas further west. (Right) A land use-map showing the same overview of Namibia, demonstrating freehold and communal farming areas. Note that the desert-adapted elephant population generally ranges to the west of the red line on the map (areas receiving less than 150mm of rain per year on average)

The main issues involved with capturing wild elephants for the purposes of captivity relate to elephant conservation and welfare. Exporting elephants internationally must further satisfy conditions set by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Here, I provide relevant information on each of these issues as they relate to the current elephant auction.

Elephant Conservation

There are two aspects of MEFT’s elephant tender that need to be considered to evaluate this decision in terms of elephant conservation. The first is whether there was any conservation value to this decision in Namibia, and the second is whether there is any conservation value at the elephants’ ultimate destinations.

The contribution to GPTF and the short-term alleviation of some human-elephant conflict in the two target areas has some conservation value. This is especially so if the N$ 4.4 million is earmarked not just for conservation projects generally but for implementing longer-term research and conservation projects that aim to reduce conflict and assist local farmers. Alleviating the current conflict by removing some elephants (other herds remain in the area) further shows these farmers that MEFT is willing to take concrete action to reduce conflict in the long term. Evidence of collaborative projects between MEFT, the Namibian University of Science and Technology’s Biodiversity Research Centre and Elephant Human Relations Aid strongly suggest that the elephant removals will be followed up with future assistance.

The case for elephants being exported to safari parks in the UAE having conservation value at their destination is much weaker. The Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) strongly agrees with the IUCN African Elephant Specialist Group on this matter: keeping elephants in captivity provides no direct benefit to elephant conservation in the wild. As Dr Chris Brown, CEO of NCE states, “keeping elephants in zoos is a Victorian-era practice that has no place in modern conservation, which focuses on maintaining wild animal populations and their associated ecosystems”.

This is part of a larger debate, however, as zoos and safari parks worldwide claim that they have a role to play in educating the public and creating awareness of the need to conserve animals in Africa. Some zoos provide conservation grants, while others claim to contribute to species conservation through research and captive breeding programmes. One of the safari parks receiving these Namibian elephants is a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA) and the other states that EAZA will be a partner in their future breeding programmes. Both parks have refused to be publicly named as destinations for these elephants.

Regardless of the claims made by zoos and safari parks of their contribution to conservation, it would have been vastly preferable if these elephants were sent to other African range states with depleted elephant populations. As MEFT discovered from the responses to their tender notice, however, there are vanishingly few areas in Africa that are ready to receive elephants at this time. MEFT is certainly willing to engage with other African countries to assist with restocking depleted elephant populations, but one would first have to address the causes of that depletion (e.g. poaching) before undertaking a reintroduction programme.

In early 2020, African Parks signed a management agreement with Iona National Park, which is part of a Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) that includes Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park. Elephants from north-western Namibia would therefore be well-suited to conditions in south-western Angola. It will likely take a few years of improving the infrastructure and staff capacity to address poaching in Iona before they are ready to accept elephants. African Parks did not approach MEFT regarding these elephants, so it is reasonable to conclude that they are not ready to receive elephants yet. MEFT is more than willing to support an elephant translocation to Angola provided they receive a formal request from that government.

Moving elephants within Namibia to areas that are suitably fenced is another option, which was provided by N/a’an ku sê’s new private reserve. Like other Southern African nations with growing elephant populations, however, there are very few areas in Namibia that can host more elephants. Translocating the elephants back into Etosha National Park, for example, would have a low likelihood of success because Etosha’s population is close to its capacity. This is why these elephant groups broke out of Etosha in the first place – to seek water and grazing elsewhere. Further, the Etosha fence line is in no fit state to keep elephants inside the park. Even some private farms in Namibia that have elephants struggle to maintain their fences against elephant damage, thus becoming a source of human-elephant conflict rather than a solution.

With clearly limited options for translocating wild elephants to other areas within natural elephant range that could make a significant contribution to conservation, what other options remain for MEFT? The only other practical option for reducing elephant numbers in the short-term is culling. Unlike the tender option, this would provide no income to GPTF. Since CITES prevents international ivory trade, the only value that could be captured from culling is the meat that could be locally distributed or sold. As Botswana discovered, this option is even less popular among the general public than a live elephant auction.

Elephant Welfare

Some of the greatest protests against exporting elephants to captivity are related to animal welfare. Certainly, if the destination of these elephants were small concrete enclosures in disreputable zoos, this move would be rightly condemned on animal welfare grounds alone. The practice of separating young animals from their mothers and training them using cruel or questionable methods to “break” them is abhorrent. The conditions of the Namibian tender (that family groups had to be moved together) were such that unscrupulous buyers such as these would not be interested, and several other conditions set out in the tender document addressed elephant welfare during the translocation process.

Gerrie Odendaal, the game farmer who organised and paid for the translocation, quarantine and export of the 22 elephants destined for the UAE was also concerned for the welfare of these animals. He remained in constant contact with an independent veterinarian and the MEFT wildlife veterinarian during the time that the elephants were in his care. He says that when they arrived at his 28-hectare quarantine facility, the elephants were aggressive and afraid of people, probably because they were continually harassed on the farms around Kamanjab. Odendaal continues, “after a few weeks in my care, they calmed down considerably and even females with young calves were comfortable in the presence of people.” Odendaal commented, “I even fed the older bull with apples straight from my hand, although I respected their space and never approached them on the ground.”

Elephants in their quarantine facility
Gerrie Odendaal’s 28-hectare quarantine facility features a feeding area that elephants are free to move out of surrounded by shipping containers; A close view of this elephant’s left ear reveals several neat puncture holes, likely caused by small-calibre bullets used to chase the elephants away from farms; Caretakers stand on the containers to feed them and do not approach them from the ground; Artificial shade was created near the feeding area.

Photos of these elephants reveal neat puncture holes in the ears of some of the older females, which have most likely been caused by small-calibre bullets intended to chase the elephants away from farms where they were unwelcome. Sadly, one of the younger elephants seems to be an orphan. Odendaal speculates: “It is old enough to feed itself, but does not associate closely with any of the adult females. It seems that its mother was killed sometime before we captured the herd.”

The 28-hectare camp is based on the final destination facility at one of the safari parks (the elephant enclosure at the other one is 24 hectares). Prior to the elephants’ arrival, Odendaal’s quarantine area contained large camel thorn trees and plenty of smaller bushes, but the elephants have destroyed these trees in the last few months (the quarantine period had to be extended due to COVID-related travel restrictions). Artificial shade near the feeding area has therefore been provided to replace the shade trees. Odendaal provided bales of lucerne, branches harvested from bushes on the rest of his farm, and hundreds of apples to sustain the elephants’ healthy appetites. The herd was provided with fresh piped water and a muddy pool to cool themselves off.

In consultation with a veterinarian who has many years of experience with elephants, the 22 elephants that were captured in Kamanjab were split into two female herds, with one unrelated bull each, that were delivered to the two safari parks at the same time. While in quarantine, all of these elephants were kept together and the two sub-groups were identified by closely observing how the herd split up when moving around the camp. The elephants that were born in the quarantine facility (having been conceived in the wild prior to capture) were added to the Namibian CITES export permit and were provided with extra care during transit. On the Namibian side of this translocation, every effort was taken to ensure the welfare of these elephants, and the destinations in the UAE seem to be capable of maintaining a high welfare standard.

Concerns nonetheless remain about the destination of the next generation of elephants, if these herds breed successfully in the UAE. Dr Brown comments: “Their future is now out of our hands. Will they land up in Victorian-style, cramped zoos, or in even worse caged conditions in China? What prevents these safari parks from selling elephants on to less reputable places? It is imperative that zoo associations (EAZA and others) ensure that captive elephant populations are carefully monitored to prevent welfare abuses of this nature.”

CITES Permits

Import and export permits are not provided by CITES itself, but each country must have its own national authority that provides such permits, following rules and guidelines set by CITES. The national authorities report to CITES regularly on their numbers of imports and exports, and provide information to the CITES Secretariat on specific decisions when required.

CITES categorises plants and animals that are (or could be) threatened by international trade into Appendix I, II and III (Appendix III is not of concern here). Species in Appendix I are considered to be highly threatened by international trade. CITES therefore restricts all trade in these species, except under specific conditions. Appendix II species are considered to be not currently threatened by international trade, but could become so if this trade is not closely controlled. African elephants are listed as Appendix I in all range states except Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe, where they are listed under Appendix II.

Previous exports of elephants from Zimbabwe to non-African states (including China and the UAE) were completed under Appendix II guidelines, which state that the animals can only go to appropriate and acceptable destinations. At the most recent CITES Conference of the Parties (CoP18) in 2019, the definition of what is appropriate and acceptable was amended to destinations located within the natural range of African elephants and that contribute to in situ (i.e. in the wild) conservation programmes.

A recent statement by CITES on the Namibian elephant export explains the conditions that national authorities must adhere to when issuing export and import permits for Appendix I and II species. From this statement, it is clear that if Appendix II conditions are not met, the animals must be treated as Appendix I species. Given the recent restrictions on exporting Appendix II species outside of elephant range, these Namibian elephants are being exported and imported under Appendix I conditions.

Under these conditions, the Namibian national authority (MEFT) must be satisfied that this particular deal is:
a) not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) not illegal under national laws;
c) the translocation methods must minimise the risk of injury, damage to health or cruel treatment; and
d) that an import permit has been granted by the destination country.

The Namibian government has met all of these conditions and is therefore operating within CITES regulations.

As the importing country, the UAE national authority must be satisfied that:
a) the transaction is not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) the facility where the elephants will be kept is suitably equipped to house and care for them; and
c) the elephants are not to be used for primarily commercial purposes.

The last clause does not refer to money being paid to the exporter for the animals, but for how the buyer in the importing country will use those animals. Since the UAE has granted an import permit that covers both safari parks, it seems that their national authority is satisfied that they meet all three of these conditions (the third condition is described in more detail here).

On final evaluation

The definitive evaluation of MEFT’s decision to auction 170 elephants is thus not straightforward. From a CITES point of view, it is legal. In judging whether or not it was a good decision, one must take into account both conservation and welfare concerns.

For conservation purposes, at the very least, these decisions must not compromise the survival of the elephant population. Removing 170 elephants from farmlands outside protected areas will not have a detrimental effect on the survival of the Namibian elephant population, thereby meeting this minimum condition. The most vulnerable sub-population in Namibia occurs in arid areas on the unfenced communal conservancies and protected areas in the far west: these are commonly known as the desert-adapted elephants. The elephants that were removed are not part of the desert-adapted population, but occur directly south of Etosha.

MEFT and its partners are implementing a longer-term plan to try and mitigate the conflict between farmers and the remaining elephants. It is reasonable to say that a net gain for conservation was achieved for Namibia by selling rather than culling these herds. Nevertheless, keeping elephants in captivity has no direct conservation value, as reintroductions from captivity into the wild are far more costly and risky for the elephants than wild-wild translocations.

On the welfare side, our actions must limit animal suffering as much as possible. In this case, not removing elephants from farmlands also has negative welfare implications, as they may be harassed and even killed by frustrated farmers. We do not know what the elephants would choose if given the option between a safe, boring life in captivity, a dangerous life alongside hostile humans, or a quick death at the hands of a professional culling team. Of the options available for captivity, large safari park enclosures that allow whole family herds to stay together in semi-natural conditions are preferable to individual elephants living in cramped zoo conditions.

In an ideal world, none of this would be necessary. Humans and elephants would have no problems living side-by-side, the elephant range could keep expanding across southern Africa with no difficulties, and poaching would no longer be a problem. No elephants would be kept in captivity worldwide, and anyone wishing to see an African elephant would visit protected areas on the continent and thus boost tourism revenues. Unfortunately, we do not live in an ideal world. In reality, decision-makers have to strike a balance between competing human and elephant needs, while taking elephant conservation and wildlife safaris into account.

Resources

Dive into the key questions for human-elephant conflict research.

Read more on the story behind the Namibian elephant auction.

Learn about the great balancing act between elephants and communities.

Katavi National Park

Life in sub-Saharan Africa is ruled over by the cadence of the seasons. Nowhere in East Africa is the dichotomy between the dry and wet season more apparent than in Tanzania’s Katavi National Park. The arrival of the rains transforms landscapes, and a scarcity (or overabundance) can mean the difference between life and death. As the last thunderstorm dissipates beyond the horizon in Katavi, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun. Rivers slow to a trickle, honeycomb cracks appear in the mud, and the remaining water becomes a raw battleground. Hippos pack together in lingering wallows, crocodiles slither into sandbank caves, and herbivores must run the predator gauntlet as they line up to quench their thirst each day. For those in the know, this is what makes the remote Katavi one of the most electrifying safari destinations – a seldom-visited natural nirvana.

Katavi Map

Katavi National Park

At 4,500km2 (450,000 hectares), Katavi is one of Tanzania’s largest national parks. It is situated not far from the country’s western border, just east of Lake Tanganyika in a truncated arm of the Great Rift Valley (the Rukwa Rift Basin) that ends around Lake Rukwa. The Lyamba Iya Mfipa and Mlele escarpments line the park to the west and east. The protected area is significantly augmented by surrounding game reserves, including Rukwa, Lukwati and Luafi (also spelt Lwafi) Game Reserves. Together with the national park, these reserves encompass some 12,000km2 (1,2 million hectares) of prime wilderness, stretching to the Ruaha ecosystem to the east and the chimpanzee forests of Mahale National Park to the north. Much of the park is dominated by miombo woodland interspersed by vast open clearings (including the 425km2 – 42,500 hectares – Katisunga Plain) and floodplains. Naturally, life revolves around the park’s rivers and reed-lined waterway networks. The Katuma River feeds the seasonal Katavi and Chada Lakes, its network supplemented by the Kavu and Kapapa Rivers. Ancient riverine forests dominated by tamarind trees line these river systems, providing ample shade for the elephants, buffalos and tourists that seek refuge beneath the canopy during the soporific heat of the day.

East Africa is, of course, a safari mecca and there are many places where wildlife viewing is simply extraordinary. Yet Katavi, on Tanzania’s southern circuit, stands out because it is so far off the traditional beaten safari track that it receives fewer than 500 visitors every year. Those visitors who make the journey are richly rewarded and often find themselves with a vast chunk of African savanna to themselves, without another tourist in sight.

Leopard in tree
Katavi’s predators are not as habituated to humans as in more popular reserves, providing truly wild experiences
Africa Geographic Travel

Without the pressure of high tourist densities, the park authorities offer more freedom and activities to their adventurous patrons. Walking safaris are permitted in the company of an armed ranger, and self-drive visitors looking to camp in the park have innumerable options when picking a suitable site.

The park’s animals are less accustomed to people and vehicles. While far from skittish, they do not display the almost zoo-like disinterest in passing cars as seen in some more popular safari destinations. This, combined with Katavi’s remote and secluded ambience, gives the impression of a world where, for once, humankind is not entirely in control.

The Wild West

While Katavi’s far-flung and off-the-map quality is its most impressive drawcard, that is not to suggest that the wildlife sightings are not jaw-dropping in their own right. As already mentioned, Katavi truly comes into its own as a safari destination during the dry season. As the grass turns golden, the vanishing water turns the park into an extravaganza of nature at her most raw. This region boasts Tanzania’s highest densities of hippos and crocodiles – obviously species entirely dependent upon the presence of water. Yet, both have adapted to survive the annual disappearance of their preferred habitat for months at a time. Pods of hippos pack themselves into mud wallows by the hundreds, desperately seeking protection from the blazing sun. Social though hippos may be, hundreds of two-tonne animals crowded together are bound to cause the odd neighbourly feud and fights between bulls are especially common. During this spectacle, the resultant photographic opportunities are renowned for their bleak representation of nature’s savagery. Somewhat sensibly, the crocodiles prefer to avoid these Brobdingnagian mosh pits. Instead, they crowd into caves on the riverbanks, slithering over each other for a prime spot and entering a state of dormancy to wait out the dry season.

Bloats of hippos
Bloats of hippos numbering in the hundreds are a common sight in Katavi during the dry season

The more land-based creatures of Katavi are also forced to congregate around the drying water points, and the profusion of wildlife on display from May until October is an impressive sight. The Katavi region is known for its massive herds of buffaloes and numerous elephants, and hosts robust populations of lions, painted wolves (wild dogs), cheetahs, and hyenas. Elands gather in large herds in certain parts of the park, and fortunate visitors could be lucky enough to spot both roan and sable antelopes.

Over 400 bird species have been recorded. Naturally, most visitors are looking to take advantage of the mammal displays of the dry season, which does not equate with the best birding opportunities that Katavi offers. Instead, the best time for bird watching in the park is when the migrant species return to “summer” in Katavi from November until April, coinciding with the arrival of the rains. During these months, the seasonal lakes fill, and floodplains revert to boggy marshland, making the waterbird viewing exceptional.

Wildlife in Katavi
Large gatherings of wildlife around the shallowing water points in the drier months provide astonishing displays

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Katavi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Though Katavi may be remote, the park and surrounds offer a small number of luxury lodges on par with grandeur and comfort found anywhere else in Africa. These beautiful camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the arid months, offering spectacular “armchair” wildlife viewing from the lodge decks between game drives. Unfortunately, most of the camps are closed for part of, if not all, of the rainy season from November until May, when the roads become sludgy, and parts of the park become totally inaccessible. For the more intrepid visitor, camping and self-drive through the park is an option, though it is essential to consider the journey to get there (measured in days rather than hours). Most visitors opt to fly into the Ikuu airstrip – a three-hour flight from Dar es Salaam.

Accommodation in Katavi
Chada Katavi is a luxurious option when exploring the park, and Mbali Mbali offers a comfortable, remote experience away from regular tourist routes

Parting thoughts

In the heart of Katavi National Park, near Lake Katavi, an innocuous-looking tamarind tree holds a deep spiritual meaning. Here, the Bende and Pimbwe people believe that the spirit of Katabi – a great hunter – has taken up residence, and he looks out across the mountains where his wife, Wamweru, resides. Katavi was named for Katabi, the hunter-spirit, and it is believed that gifts and offerings placed at the base of the tree will bring good fortune and blessings. The local people are seemingly content to share the favours of Katabi, and visitors are encouraged to leave behind their gifts to the precious tree.

This gem of cultural history is just one part of what makes the Katavi experience so raw and intense – an awareness of both the power of nature and our intimate, intuitive connection to it. With her seasonal foibles and dramatic interplay of life and death, untrammelled Katavi is genuinely one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.

Giraffe in Katavi
Katavi’s camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the surroundings

Comment – teamAG – Friday 18 March 2022

Comment – teamAG
Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. Read more about Gonarezhou here.

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Best photos + top painted wolf spots + Japan’s illegal ivory

Once in a blue moon, a safari opportunity comes along that awakens the ESSENCE of me. As if someone has stuck a big spoon into my soul and stirred every raw nerve, every instinctive impulse.

I had, of course, heard of Chitake, but THESE IMAGES & VIDEO became the stirring spoon, and I took more notice. Then my colleague Nadia spent a few days there and came back with stories of sleepless nights because of the loud nocturnal battles between lions and their targets – buffaloes and elephants. She is an experienced guide with tons of bush time – and not prone to exaggeration. Her final summation: ‘Next level.’

And so we crafted this safari. The first group of six sold out in hours, and we have four places left on the second (and only other) group. This safari is not about rim-flow pools and crystal champagne flutes – it’s in-your-face primal Africa, unlike a luxury honeymoon safari in Kenya.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

When teamAG isn’t out finding the best safaris, we’re at our desks packaging them for delivery to you. So we too have time to develop travel FOMO. Especially when we’re choosing (and reliving) Africa’s 6 painted wolf hotspots – see our first story below. For me, it’s Kruger. For Simon, the vital population of Khwai, and for Jamie, the famous canids of Mana Pools.

Our third story brings you the week’s best photos, where you can visit the otherworldly Danakil Depression and the tuskers of Amboseli.

By contrast, images of raw ivory from Japan’s legal market, which commoditises elephants and conceals illegal international trade, bring a stark reality home. Our second story below refers.

Send us your thoughts (join the club to comment)!
Happy celebrating Africa to you all.


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

At the top of your newsletter, the photograph features the glorious sandstone Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park’s most famous landmark. Below them flows the Runde River on its way to the confluence with the Save River and then a meandering journey of over 300km to the Indian Ocean. Why do I mention this? Because Zambezi sharks are regularly recorded at the confluence.

Did you know that the Zambezi shark (bull shark) thrives in both salt and fresh water? These are not just brief forays upriver into estuaries either – they have been known to travel as far as 1,100km from the ocean up the Mississippi River and 4,000km up the Amazon River into Peru. These are usually gravid females searching for a safe place to give birth. So a short trip to landlocked Zimbabwe is nothing for a shark with travel FOMO.


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-6-top-places-to-see-painted-wolves/
PAINTED WOLF
Here are the 6 top spots in Africa to scout for wild dogs

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/japan-an-illegal-ivory-traders-haven-new-report/
ILLEGAL IVORY
Japan’s domestic ivory market has created a haven for illegal traders – new report

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-6/
BEST PHOTOS
Our selection from this week’s magnificent Photographer of the Year entries


WATCH: Epic aerial footage of African landscapes you are dying to visit (0:58). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 6

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

On the dry lake beds of Amboseli, a breeding herd leaves its night-time resting spot to head to the marshes. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss
Satisfaction. A satiated cheetah takes a break after a meal. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Aarti Shah
The volcanic chemicals of otherworldly Dallol decorate hydrothermal ponds trapped amongst ancient coral reefs and salty minerals. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
After the breeding season, Lake Bogoria’s alkaline waters are a haven for almost a million lesser flamingos – more than a quarter of the global population of these birds. Kenya. © XIAOCHENGUANG
The new king of Liuwa Plain strides across the vast landscape. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald
Once plentiful, only a few remaining super tuskers roam Amboseli National Park today. Here, super tusker Craig towers above the camera, with Mount Kilimanjaro in neighbouring Tanzania seen in the distance. Kenya. © Dewald Tromp
Africa Geographic Travel
A lion cub takes a break from rolling in the grass after suckling. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dirk Johnen
Playtime for two young elephant calves. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Gabriela Staebler
Eyes on the prize. A cheetah sets her laser-focused sights on a Thomson’s gazelle. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Jenny Zhao
A trader from the Afar Triangle, bound for Mekele, packs his camel with slabs of salt mined from one of the Earth’s hottest places. Here, Red Sea floods 30,000 years ago created one of the world’s richest salt deposits. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
Remarkable patterns of tracks criss-cross the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Occasional small herds of wildebeest and zebra cross the expanse to take advantage of the more nutritious grasses sprouting on the edge of the pans. Botswana. © James Gifford
Back to black. Grey crowned cranes perch in front of two black rhinos. Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
Mega-gardener of the forest. The straighter, downward-pointing tusks of the smaller forest elephant distinguish it from the savannah elephant. These elephants play a crucial role in dispersing many tree species in their last strongholds in West and Central Africa. Loango National Park, Gabon. © Lynn Gindorff
Africa Geographic Travel
Head’s up! A Nile crocodile feasts on the head of a badly decomposed antelope. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Holland
A black-backed jackal takes a dove by surprise at Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage
Sunrise silhouette of a mating pair of lions in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Jenny Zhao
Samburu moran (warrior), Sam, at Ololokwe Mountain. This sacred desert mountain holds cultural significance for the Samburu tribe. Kenya. © Mojgan Arashvand
A Cape cobra attempts to devour a small leopard tortoise near Dikbaardskolk waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Pierre Rossouw
The drama is tangible when witnessing a hippo brawl from the bow of a boat. Chobe River, Botswana. © Antionette Morkel
A family of elephants, bothered by a bull in musth not far behind, crosses the plains below Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss
Africa Geographic Travel
An early morning scuffle in Amboseli National Park. Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald
A Suri woman wears a unique lip plate featuring a hollow centre. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
Long in the tooth. A Nile crocodile’s mouth is filled with up to 68 sharply pointed teeth. Chobe River, Botswana. © Trix Jonker

Japan: An illegal ivory trader’s haven – new report

Japan is failing to regulate its domestic ivory market, resulting in the perfect cover for illegally imported ivory and a supply source for illegal export. This is according to a new report compiled by the non-profit organisation, the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund (JTEF). The report challenges the Government of Japan’s (GoJ) claim that “Japan has been implementing stringent measures to ensure that its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade”, calling it “flawed and unjustified”.

In 2016, the state parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) adopted a resolution calling for those member states with a legal domestic ivory market to take urgent measures to close the commercial trade. Three years later, at the next Conference of the Parties, those states (including Japan) that opted not to do so were requested to report to the Secretariat on the measures taken to ensure that these domestic ivory markets were not contributing to poaching or illegal trade.

Japan remains the world’s most significant open ivory market. In response to the CITES request, the Government of Japan issued a firm assurance that these measures were in place, pointing to controls such as the stringent oversight of dealership registration, the compulsory registration of whole tusks and the use of carbon dating to determine tusk origin. However, the comprehensive 22-page report from the JTEF gives detailed examples of how these measures have failed in their supposed purpose.

In summary, findings of the JTEF report include:

  • The persistent illegal ivory exports from Japan result from the country’s authorised legal market selling many different ivory items.
  • The compulsory registration of ivory dealers (or renewal thereof) should involve a rigorous examination of eligibility – something the Government of Japan claims is done. However, the JTEF contends that this examination is, in reality, non-existent and does not preclude the registration of problematic dealers.
  • The requirement to register all whole tusks was successfully bypassed as registered dealers simply cut them into pieces and processed them into Hanko (traditional signature stamps).
  • The use of carbon dating to increase scrutiny for whole tusk registration came too late, and a vast number of tusks with unknown origin and acquisition have been legalised and entered the market.
  • Despite assurances of traceability, the report indicates that there is no official verification on the legality of origin and acquisition at the point of production for ivory cut pieces and products, making traceability impossible.
  • Closing the domestic legal market may be the only way to eliminate the significant trade loopholes.
  • The influence of Japan’s buoyant domestic ivory market on the international community’s goal of preventing illegal international ivory trade should not be downplayed.
Semi-processed ivory pieces observed at indoor antiques fairs in Tokyo and Kyoto; Display of ivory items at a shop in Tokyo’s tourist areas; Raw ivory displayed at an auction house; Newly manufactured ivory products found at two shops in Tokyo’s major tourist areas

Each chapter of the report is dedicated to one of the measures supposedly set to prevent Japan’s legal market from contributing to the illegal trade in ivory. For example, the first chapter delves into how, despite “rigorous examination”, dealership registration is granted or renewed for kingpins in the ivory market, even when these companies have a recent-track record of illegal ivory trade.

The second chapter deals with the requirement for all whole tusks to be registered before they are involved in any transactions. The registration process requires identifying each tusk’s legal origin and acquisition. According to the JTEF, the dealers predicted the 2019 tightening of tusk registration ahead of time. Given that the law only requires that whole tusks are registered, traders rushed to take advantage of the loophole by cutting registered and unregistered tusks. Unregistered stockpiles are posed as registered stockpiles using the registration cards of those already consumed.

The report also claims that carbon dating to examine tusks upon registration was intentionally delayed. As a result, tusks of unknown but questionable origin were legalised and entered the market before carbon-dating analysis may have exposed their background.

Africa Geographic Travel
The report challenges the Government of Japan’s claims that stringent measures are in place to ensure its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade

The authors of the JTEF report conclude that not only has the Government of Japan failed to regulate the domestic ivory market, but these failures are systemic and consistent and have left the market open to the illegal trade in tusks. They call upon Japan to end all ivory trade as a matter of urgency, stating that the “stockpile is vast and the market remains tireless”.

A few weeks after the release of the JTEF report, the Standing Committee of CITES agreed that countries must continue to report on their domestic ivory markets. The EU has also called for an analysis of whether ivory seizures connected to countries that have not closed their domestic ivory markets may influence illegal international trade – a call echoed by Gabon.

Resources

For more on the extent of Japan’s ivory trade, you can watch the video of shocking evidence of Japan’s dirty ivory trade.

For more on how ivory Hanko stamps became popular, read Elephant ivory and the Japanese Hanko stamp.

And finally, read about how TRAFFIC and the WWF have also called for the closure of Japan’s ivory market.

The full report from the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund can be accessed here: Sakamoto, M., (2022), ‘Japan’s Tireless Ivory Market: A Trader’s Haven Free of Strict Control‘, Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 11 March 2022

Cape clawless otters frolic in the coastal waters of Vermont, Western Cape, South Africa.

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Epic pics + Central Kalahari magic + entertaining otters

Such Disneyfied drama!

Fig, a confiding and beloved leopardess from a conservancy bordering the Maasai Mara, is no more – killed by a male lion. I can imagine how traumatic this must have been for the guests and guides that bore witness. And yet this PRIMAL process plays itself out all over wild Africa, in so many ways.

One gent, a respected photographer and local lodge owner, was so upset about the manner of Fig’s demise that he threw himself into a rather dramatic Facebook post. He described the lion as “a brutal alpha male” that “invaded a small unthreatening enclave“. On the lion’s behaviour, he commented that the “leonine tyrant savaged its innocent prey in an unprovoked, unnecessary and seemingly unwarranted attack“. Fig was described thus: “She was our bank, inspiration, figurehead, and confidant. She was our Zelensky.

Stepping aside from the peculiar reference to the Ukraine situation, reactions like this from a person of influence in response to nature behaving normally emphasize the ongoing Disneyfication of real life in Africa. CELEBRATE Fig and mourn her, but never ever condemn nature for doing her thing. Drops the mic

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Is there a right way to photograph people?

A few of this week’s Photographer of the Year entries capture intimate human moments around the continent – allowing visceral views into diverse cultures and sparking introspection in the AG office. When is photographing people intrusive? Where is the line drawn between respectfully representing a complex situation, or reducing it to a one-sided, simplistic narrative? Is it invasive to position one’s lens amidst a Maasai circumcision ceremony or a Boloye dance – or does this depend on the circumstances in which a subject agrees to be photographed?

Our consensus in the office is reflected in our guidelines for submissions. Authenticity is key. Permission: essential. And the subject’s understanding of the potential exposure a photograph’s journey can bring: vital. The results can be wonderful – images that enlighten through education, stirring the viewer’s understanding of the world and expanding horizons. A single image can ignite action and change history. And it can bring inspirational Africa straight to you, our AG family. We’d love to hear your thoughts on this – comment on our Photographer of the Year entries via our first story below (join the club to comment).

For a bit of escapism this week, our second story below takes you to the wildlife-dotted plains of Kalahari Central Game Reserve. Read about this remote part of Botswana, which calls to the most rough and ready of adventurers. Happy indulging in Africa to you all!


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Every story has its villain, and nature is no different when trying to force it into a neat narrative. Vilification is inevitable when animals don’t conform to our moral expectations. It’s peculiar, the disparate values people assign different species – a lion killing a buffalo is exciting, a lion killing a leopard is a tragedy, a lion killing lion cubs is an abomination. (All often discussed in horror over a steak or pork chop dinner.)

But did you know that scientists have traced the neural pathways of infanticide? Their results are not all that straightforward, but, in essence, aggressive acts towards young of the same species (like infanticide) are mediated by regions of the brain entirely separate from those associated with other types of aggression. This behaviour is pure instinct and is therefore simply part of the natural way of things. And we cannot cherry-pick the aspects of nature we choose to appreciate…


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-5/
EPIC PICS
Celebrate Africa’s people and wildlife in our Week 5 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Submit your entries now.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/central-kalahari-game-reserve/
CENTRAL KALAHARI
Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a true wilderness that casts a spell on her visitors

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is always a favourite bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …

TIPPING – when to tip and how much? Now that the go-on-safari surge is gaining momentum, we address this perennial source of angst amongst travellers. Here then, are a few tips about tipping.


WATCH: The illegal trade in African grey parrots is facilitated by traders using social media – as presented by BBC Click. This documentary features club member World Parrot Trust – Africa. Watch this portion 02:01 – 11:15

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 5

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

Namaqua sandgrouse on lift off at Bedinkt Waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage
A hippo lies motionless in the mud during a hot day. The hippo’s fine epidermis renders its skin extremely sensitive to direct sunlight. Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca
Flamingo affection at Rocherpan Nature Reserve. West Coast, South Africa. © Leon Labuschagne
Two of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s oldest cheetah females (sisters born in 2011), both accompanied by litters of sub-adult cubs, cooperatively hunt a gemsbok calf. South Africa. © Mark Kaptein
A toktokkie beetle feeds on a dragonfly in the Namib desert. Namibia. © Antionette Morkel
A Cape sugarbird flies over a protea after feeding on its sweet nectar. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland
A member of the nomadic Fulani tribe from West Africa displays face tattoos and characteristic adornments. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand
Zenabu, also a member of the Fulani Tribe, displays the tattoos which indicate the diversity within small groups of this region in the norther parts of Benin. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand
Africa Geographic Travel
Three blue wildebeest engage in a fierce battle. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dominique Maree
A cheetah family slows down for a quiet moment of nursing. Every few days the mother must move her cubs to avoid predators. This female has been collared for monitoring purposes. Marataba, Marakele National Park, South Africa. © Francoise Fourie
A Suri woman with decorated ear plate and large lip plate. The size of the lip plate indicates the number of cattle required for a Suri woman’s dowry. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
The wild, athletic movements of a ‘panther man’ dancing a Boloye dance. Côte d’Ivoire. © Inger Vandyke
A young Maasai boy’s face is painted during the Elatim circumcision ceremony. Tanzania. © Lewi Haskins
Male southern masked weavers having a spat at a hide near Bloemfontein. Free State, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage
Cape fur seals gather where the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Namibia. © Anne-Françoise Tasnier
Africa Geographic Travel
Through a glass darkly. These young giraffe and guardians seem to forge a mirror image on a ridge in Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Millie Kerr
A Nephila spider (golden-orb web spider) snacks on a fly. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Tiffany Duncan
Strawberry anemones have the ability to glow if subjected to UV light. Fluorescence absorbs high-energy light and re-emits it as low-energy light. Partridge Point Dive Site in False Bay, South Africa. © Peet J van Eeden
The owner of these dromaderies ‘conducts’ his camels as they drink from a well dug to water passing caravans between the ancient Ksours of Oualata and Tichitt. From here, the caravans leave for Mali, Côte d’Ivoire and Burkina Faso to transport harvested salt. Mauritania. © Romain Miot
A male lion showing a flehmen response while doing his morning rounds. This often takes place when a lion sniffs and smells the urine of another. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro
A Cape sugarbird perches amongst colourful blooming common mimetes. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland
Africa Geographic Travel

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

The Kalahari casts a spell upon her visitors – the kind of magic that can only be experienced first-hand. It is partly to do with a sense of space, a true wilderness stretching as far as the eye can see, both untamed and austerely beautiful. Yet, there is an element to the mystery of its allure, creating a tantalising combination of the immediate and the timeless. At the heart of this vast stretch of sand lies Botswana’s rugged Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where travellers can refresh world-weary souls beneath the cool blaze of the Milky Way.

The reserve and surrounds

As the name clearly implies, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) is situated smack in the middle of Botswana at the centre of the Kalahari Basin. Descriptors such as “vast” or “extensive” fail to do justice to the sheer scale of this enormous reserve, which extends over 52,800km² (over five million hectares) of arid bushveld. Along its boundaries, several private conservancies have successfully converted former farmland back to its original state and the protected area is further supplemented by the 2,500km² (250,000 hectares) Khutse Game Reserve to the south.

The word “Kalahari” shares its etymology with “Kgalagadi”, likely drawn from the Tswana word “kgala”, which can be roughly translated to mean “thirst” or “to dry up”. Thus, Kalahari is interpreted as “land of great thirst” and Kgalagadi as “a waterless place”. Whatever the exact translation, the overtones are unmistakable – this is a land devoid of surface water, a harsh and inhospitable wilderness. Yet once again, this fails to encapsulate the complexity of this amazing landscape fully.

One of the Kalahari’s most iconic sights

The Kalahari Desert is technically more semi-desert (apart from the far southwestern portion) and encompasses several different types of habitats, including grasslands, scrubland, and rich arid savanna – all of which can be found within the CKGR. Throughout the reserve, there is evidence of a more bountiful time in the Kalahari’s history, when rainfall was more abundant and temperatures a little less extreme. Fossil riverbeds crisscross the reserve, the most famous of which is Deception Valley in the northeast corner, so named because of the mirage created over the surface of the salt pan.

Cheetahs thrive in the Kalahari

Although the terrain may seem harsh, nature always finds a way to survive, and the CKGR is no exception. Though not necessarily as abundant as the Okavango and Chobe areas to the north, wildlife abounds in CKGR, from herds of antelope to the predators that have learnt to stalk them through the long grasses.

Fundamentals

For the most part, the remote CKGR attracts a certain kind of traveller. These hardy adventurers are the sort prepared for any eventuality, driving 4x4s packed to the brim with equipment, water, fuel and everything but the kitchen sink (and sometimes a makeshift kitchen sink). With the astonishing capacity to set up/dismantle a rooftop tent with the speed and efficiency befitting a Formula One pitstop crew, they revel in the unspoilt peace of the wild. They will readily assist the less experienced with only a faintly detectable hint of smugness.

Adventurous travellers will be at ease setting up camp in the open wilderness of the reserve

Though it is unnecessary to be such a dab-hand at overlanding, a self-drive stay in the CKGR cannot be approached without meticulous planning. There are no shops within the reserve, and sufficient food, fuel, firewood and water must be purchased beforehand (only one camp has running water, which is not always available). Fuel supplies should be gauged with the significant distances between four entrance gates and the various campsites in mind.

The roads alternate between thick sand and clay that turns into sludge during the short rainy season. Phone signal is non-existent, and visitor density is extremely low, so it is not uncommon to spend the day exploring without seeing another soul. The northern section of the park tends to be slightly busier and offers greater concentrations of wildlife. This may all sound somewhat intimidating, but the result is more than worth the effort. This is, without doubt, one of the wildest parts of Southern Africa. The immersion in nature is absolute, and it is pretty easy to imagine one has this wilderness entirely to oneself.

Not much can compare with the experience of sleeping in a tent, with just a slip of canvas between you and the black-maned lion roaring in your campsite – with miles between you and the nearest civilisation.

Still too much? Well, fear not, less intrepid travellers can still experience the magic of the Kalahari without having to worry about being self-sufficient. The reserve and surrounds are peppered with luxury lodges where guests can still revel in the beauty and isolation of the desert — more on this below.

The creatures of the Kalahari

A leonine visit in the middle of the night is a common campsite occurrence in the CKGR, but, as might be expected, there is an element of luck involved in all desert wildlife sightings, particularly where predators are concerned. However, lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted wolves (wild dogs) are all resident, albeit in low densities compared to some of the northern parts of Botswana.

The famous black-maned lions of the Kalahari draw many visitors to CKGR

Elephants can and do move through the reserve. Still, sightings are few and far between, and elephant enthusiasts should visit the Okavango Delta, or head to Linyanti or Chobe National Park for their pachyderm fix. The upshot of this is that CKGR is generally not marketed as a suitable option for the first time or once-off safari-goers looking for the ‘Big 5’ and other iconic safari wildlife. Yet, the African desert never disappoints those who appreciate animal marvels of every shape and size.

Africa Geographic Travel
Elephants are a less common and thus more special sighting in the reserve

Brown hyenas slink through the ancient riverbeds and smaller carnivores like jackals, caracals and honey badgers are always a highlight. The families of bat-eared foxes are a source of constant entertainment, sporting ridiculously oversized ears and somewhat sardonic expressions, while charismatic meerkats forage through the undergrowth. The usual assortment of campsite opportunists – ground squirrels, hornbills, mongooses and spurfowls, for example – are always around and don’t be surprised to find one drinking your shower water next to your feet with zero regard for privacy. 

The wide-open plains of the Kalahari make for striking wildlife sightings

First people of the Kalahari

The Kalahari is the ancestral homeland of various San peoples, the oldest human inhabitants of the region and collectively one of the most persecuted groups in Southern Africa. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen (as they have expressly confirmed they prefer to be called) previously occupied the now CKGR region as nomadic hunter-gatherers. In fact, the reserve was initially established as a “place of sanctuary” for them during the 1960s.

However, a campaign to relocate the inhabitants began two decades later, culminating in forced removals to “resettlement camps” outside the park during the mid-1990s. The move was “justified” on conservation grounds but coincided with the discovery of diamonds in the southern section of the reserve. Though some of the Gana, Gwi and Tsila people have since won their legal battle to return to their ancestral homeland, returning to their old way of life has proved next to impossible. The legal conflict continues to this day in one of the most expensive court cases in Botswana’s history. (For a brief account of some of their hardships, read about the struggle of the Kalahari people.)

Central Kalahari Game Reserve
The CKGR experience – game drives, walks, cultural interactions with the subcontinent’s First People and iconic African animals.

One of the highlights for many travellers is to spend time with Bushmen, tracking or learning more about their cultures and traditions. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen have a deep and intimate connection to their homeland, and these experiences can be highly educational. Though a complete account of the land conflict in Botswana is beyond the scope of this article, it is beholden upon visitors to bear this context in mind when visiting the reserve and interacting with those who call it home. It is also essential to research the various cultural programmes on offer to ensure that the Bushmen guides receive the proceeds of this tourism-generated revenue.

Desert Rose

Though there are no roses in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the desert does bloom once a year. The fauna and flora of the Kalahari are all beautifully adapted to survive the pulse of the desert seasons, patiently awaiting the arrival of the rains. As storm clouds gather and lightning scythes through the sky, there is almost a palpable sigh of relief from the parched earth and inhabitants. The transformation is almost immediate and utterly breathtaking. The plants seize their chance before the greedy sand soaks up the water, bursting into life, covering the red dunes in shades of green and yellow.

The reserve comes alive in the rainy season

The salt pans of the north fill with water, and the herbivores gather in large numbers around the surrounding grass plains, forming impressive herds of giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, oryx, impala and springbok. Many give birth during the height of the green season, much to the delight of tourists and predators.

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Central Kalahari Game Reserve? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Very unusually, this desert rejuvenation means that the rainy season (between November and March) is the best time to visit the Central Kalahari Game Reserve or surrounding private conservancies. Though the afternoon thunderstorms can be disruptive to plans, they do help to take the edge off the summer heat. The only downside is that the clay soils turn into sludge, making driving conditions somewhat tricky. As expected, temperatures can be extreme, with boiling days and very chilly nights, especially during the dry season.

Luxury accommodation is available for those not willing to rough it on a self-drive 4X4 trip

There are several very basic campsites spread throughout the park, divided into state-run campsites and others that are privately operated. Generally, there is a trade-off between price and state of cleanliness/infrastructure that can be easily inferred from the above distinction. The luxury lodges offer the perfect alternative for those less keen on the necessary planning and potential pitfalls of self-drive. Of course, one of the significant advantages of going the lodge route is that the heat of the day can be spent dipping in and out of swimming pools looking out across the spectacular desert scenery!

The vast plains make for spectacular sunsets

Africa Geographic Travel

Resources

A first-hand account of camping in CKGR –  Camping in the Central Kalahari

Stunning photo gallery – The Dark Side of the Kalahari

Comment – teamAG – Friday 04 March 2022

Comment – teamAG
Off-the-grid and exactly what you need right now? Gonarezhou, Zimbabwe. Get our app for the best deals at this and other camps & lodges.

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Best photos + stunning sundowner spots + new hunting quotas

South Africa has used specific scientific inputs to justify hunting quotas of 10 leopards, 10 black rhinos, and 150 elephants for this year. Some CONTEXT that shines a light on dubious ’science’ being applied by our Minister:

1. LEOPARDS (10): Zero hunting quotas were issued in 2016 & 2017 because SA’s scientific authority declared that the number of leopards in the country was UNKNOWN and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species. Seven quotas were granted in 2018, despite significant reductions in leopard populations – including in the provinces now deemed to have ‘stable or increasing’ populations, according to Minister Creecy. Fast forward to 2022, and the quota has increased to ten leopards thanks to ‘robust data’.

2. BLACK RHINOS (10): The Minister openly declares that South Africa has 2,000 black rhinos – to justify hunting ten (0,5%). And yet she refuses, for security reasons, to divulge how many rhinos remain in our national parks after rampant poaching. So each year, we have to dig that information up.

3. ELEPHANTS (150): She is silent on how many large-tusked elephants remain in South Africa – the favoured target for trophy hunters. Most of the 150 elephants will likely be hunted on the privately and community-owned reserves on the western border of Kruger National Park (there is no fence).

#украина

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor

There is balance in nature, but it’s not a pleasing, harmonious equilibrium. It’s struck through a never-ending ebb and flow. A win here, a desperate loss there. It’s not always pretty to watch. It can unfold in scenarios unsettling for even the most hardened conservationist. I can’t stop thinking about Shafeeq Mulla’s Photographer of the Year entry for this week: an infant vervet monkey clings to the lifeless body of its mother, clutched in the jaws of a leopard. Its fate hangs in the balance – a downbeat in the rhythm of the wild. Just one of many breathtaking photos in this week’s selection in our third story below.

I’m intrigued by the superstitions surrounding ground-hornbills – the bringers of rain and thunder – and how this translates, in some cases, to the fierce protection of these birds, and in others to their persecution. Read more about these iconic birds in our first story below.

Oh, to dig my toes into the sands of an unspoiled beach on the shores of Lake Malawi, cocktail in hand, as fishermen on mokoros drift by to beat the setting sun. Our selection of the top 10 sundowner spots in Africa in our second story will have you itching to escape on your next safari.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all.


From our Scientific Editor

Did you know that some bats like to roost in pit latrines? The industrious microbes working away on the objectionable contents generate heat, creating a cosy (if pungent) place for the bats to hide. The additional protection of the concrete slab also keeps predators at bay, ensuring a good day’s sleep for the toilet’s residents. The only thing they have to worry about is the occasional anthropogenic interruption.

A chance in-situ encounter with one such surprised bat (combined with the realisation that this phenomenon was absent from scientific literature) inspired further research. The findings were recorded in the African Journal of Ecology in a paper entitled “Like a bat out of hell“.


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/southern-ground-hornbill-africas-rara-avis/
CHARISMATIC THUNDERBIRDS
The southern ground-hornbill is an endangered species that marks the dawn chorus with its haunting call

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-10-most-sublime-sundowner-spots/
SUNDOWNER, ANYONE?
We reveal our top 10 sundowner spots in Africa – best enjoyed with exotic cocktails and snacks

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-4/
STUNNING PHOTOS
The fourth weekly selection of entries for Photographer of the Year 2022 is out now

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

The 2022 safari booking season has kicked off with a vengeance, and Africa’s wild places will once again soon be blessed with travellers – although still at lower volumes than prior to Covid. So if you have not yet booked your next safari with us, consider these gems:

Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury itineraries available.

Our CEO’s choice. This is one for the experienced traveller wanting to do something completely different; a complete break from the clutter of modern-day life and Covid-era stresses. Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, forest elephants, dwarf crocodiles and flocks of grey parrots in the jungles and bais of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo.

And finally, this I-want-to-be-there video from The Outpost Lodge in the far north of Kruger National Park will have you ferreting out your dusty passport and packing your bags. Check out our app for the best prices at this and other camps & lodges throughout Africa.


WATCH: Free-roaming BLACK RHINOS are flourishing in Namibia – because rural people have an incentive to have them around (8:10). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 4

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

A young crocodile snaps at an eland, grasping its nose but quickly losing its grip on the fortunate antelope. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
A boomslang preying on southern-masked weaver chicks is mobbed by a protective male. Ngala Private Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. © Matt Walsh
Avoiding crocodiles in a mad dash across the Khwai River. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Alexis Castillo
Bob Marley (famed lion of the Maasai Mara), hunting a warthog in its burrow – soon after receiving a wound from the warthog’s tusk. After a long battle, he succeeded in the hunt. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Fizan Chaudhry
A dramatic crossing of the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Artur Stankiewicz
A juvenile malachite kingfisher catches a damselfly and proceeds to swallow it whole. Intaka Island Wetlands, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland
Africa Geographic Travel
A family of black-backed jackals unites just before sunset. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Charlene Bacchioni
A litter of cubs, fresh out of the den, disturbs a moment of peace. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. © Sue Dougherty
Craig, a 50-year-old super tusker of Amboseli, strikes a pose. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © David Dhaen
A monitor lizard hides in a knothole, blending into the bark of the tree. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Faaiq Ebrahim Khan
A trick of the light as a hippo blows water from its nostrils. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
A lion cub rests between meals on the sun-scorched legs of his elephant meal. Savuti, Botswana. © Hannes Lochner
Trying to escape a cauldron of struggling wildebeest in the low water levels of the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Hesté de Beer
Africa Geographic Travel
A bashful grey crowned crane – a regular at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary – is done posing for the day. Uganda. © Piritta Paija
The herd leaves Chitake Springs in the early morning. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
A juvenile white-throated swallow encourages its parent to head out to find more food. Marievale Bird Sanctuary, South Africa. © John Mullineux
The herd stands on high alert as a cheetah passes by, seemingly unperturbed by their presence. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © David Dhaen
Standing tall in front of the apparition of Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Kerry de Bruyn
Springboks hide in the shade of a tree at Etosha Pan. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Markus Vetter
A red-necked falcon lands in the shallows. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage
Africa Geographic Travel
Heading out on an early morning prowl near Mata Mata Rest Camp. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Charlene Bacchioni
Mom’s legs provide safety while at the water for a drink. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Paul Crosland
A young shoebill photographed in Mabamba Swamp, near Entebbe. Uganda. © Piritta Paija
A haunting call cuts through the morning quiet. Moditlo Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Reece Ferris
Risking life and limb on a straggling buffalo. Chitake Springs, Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
Clinging to the lifeless body of its mother, an infant vervet monkey’s fate hangs in the balance. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Shafeeq Mulla
A mother gorilla, infant close behind her, seems at ease with her audience. Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. © Sue Dougherty
A slender mongoose ventures out of hiding. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Terry Carew

Southern ground-hornbill – Africa’s rara avis

Nothing quite compares to the moment that morning breaks over the African bushveld. Through the strident calls of francolins, kingfisher trills, and melodious cuckoos cuts a low, booming sound – a primitive, hollow and deeply evocative duet that brings to mind an ancient instrument. It is the voice of Africa’s thunderbird: the southern ground-hornbill. This charismatic bird is one of Africa’s most iconic bird species. And the dawn chorus would simply not be the same without the haunting sound of the thunderbird.

The basics

The southern ground-hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) is the largest member of the hornbill family by far – a stocky bird around the size of a wild turkey, weighing anywhere between 2.0 to 6.2kg. Other than the fringe of white primary feathers on the edges of their wings, they are almost entirely clad in plumage of glossy ebony feathers. Their faces are characterised by vivid patches of bare crimson skin, giving the vague impression that they have been smacked in the face by an overripe tomato. Adult females can be easily distinguished by a patch of violet-blue skin below the beak that extends down the throat. Though these bright patches likely play a significant role in intraspecies communication, recent research has shown that, along with the casque (an extension of the maxilla bone on the beak), these wattles play a role in thermoregulation.

Ground-hornbills can and do fly – surprisingly gracefully for such large birds – but spend 70% of their days on the ground (hence the name). Their fierce yellow-green eyes are lined by a thick layer of long eyelashes that help to protect them from dust, sticks, and other risky realities of life spent foraging at ground level. Ground-hornbills are fierce avian apex predators, feeding on everything from snakes to small mammals. They use a combination of robust, scaly legs and a mighty beak to subdue prey. Though often described as omnivorous, most research indicates that they are almost exclusively carnivorous, with the bulk of their diet consisting of arthropods.

Ground-hornbills live in highly territorial groups that occupy individual ranges of 100-250km2 (depending on the type of habitat and quality of resources available). The consequence of this is that, despite a relatively large distribution across 16 countries in Southern and East Africa and parts of Central Africa, they occur at relatively low densities. They are among the continent’s most threatened birds and are allocated an overall classification of “vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List. Southern ground-hornbills belong to the Bucorvus genus along with their close relatives, Abyssinian ground-hornbill (Bucorvus abyssinicus) of northern sub-Saharan Africa and West Africa.

Africa Geographic Travel

A ground-hornbill with a grizzly scrub hare meal

Quick facts

Length: 90–129cm
Wingspan: 1.2–1.8m
Mass: Females: 2.2–4.6kg / Males: 3.5–6.2kg
Social structure: Cooperative breeding groups, usually with a dominant breeding pair
Breeding season: The wet season (between late October and March in Southern Africa)
Life expectancy: Around 40–50 years in the wild, up to 70 in captivity!

Birds of a feather

Southern ground-hornbills are obligate cooperative breeders – the largest known cooperative breeding bird in the world. They live in groups of up to twelve individuals, usually consisting of the breeding pair and male helpers from previous clutches. These (typically male) offspring delay dispersal for years to help care for future generations. Though female offspring may remain with the parents for a few years, only one adult female is tolerated in a group, and breeding is strictly between the breeding pair. This babysitting and caregiving experience is a vital learning curve – individuals that do not have around six years of helper experience do not breed successfully upon maturity.

Caregiving is offered to both the mother and chick once it hatches. The female will nest in a deep hollow of large trees (they are particularly picky on that subject, more below) at the start of the rainy season and lay between one and three eggs. Unlike other smaller hornbill species, she does not close herself off from the outside world, but the males of the group will keep her fed and protected while she incubates the eggs for just over 40 days. She remains with the newly hatched chick for another month while her bevvy of helpers flurries backwards and forwards with tasty snacks for mum and baby.

Though the female almost always lays more than one egg, only one chick will survive more than a few days, with either active or passive siblicide being a common occurrence. The adults will ignore the younger siblings, even when food is abundant, leading researchers to hypothesise that these eggs are simply an “insurance policy” if the first doesn’t hatch. 

Southern ground-hornbills are extremely slow to mature and take more than two months to fledge fully. Even then, the juveniles remain dependent on their parents and older siblings for at least another year, if not two. As a result of this extremely high level of parental investment, it is not uncommon for breeding pairs to only produce one chick every three years.

These juveniles can be easily picked out of a group because the bare patches around the eyes, throat and face are grey. For the next six years, this skin will gradually transform to yellow, mottled orange and eventually red as the bird reaches maturity between six and seven years old. Even then, though the bird is likely sexually mature, they are unlikely to breed for several more years.

The distinctive wing feathers of the ground-hornbill

Long live the ground-hornbill

Southern ground-hornbills (and Abyssinian ground-hornbills) tick many boxes that make a species particularly vulnerable to steep population declines. They are a long-lived species that require high levels of parental care and take years to mature and produce offspring of their own. Even then, only one chick is forthcoming every three years – their reproduction rate is low. This is a similar problem to that experienced in species like rhinos or elephants. However, while those large mammal species have relatively low natural mortality rates, ground-hornbill chicks are exceptionally vulnerable during fledging. (They do, however, have very high natural survival rates once they reach adulthood.)

Ground-hornbills almost exclusively nest in the hollows of large, long-lived tree species. Unfortunately, these are usually the first plant species to disappear due to human encroachment. When a female’s preferred nest site is destroyed, it may take her years to accept a suitable replacement, which can destabilise the breeding groups.

Africa Geographic Travel

Other threats facing ground-hornbills include secondary poisoning, particularly when the hornbills scavenge poison-laced carcasses intended for other species. Lead toxicosis is also a threat. Ammunition containing lead spreads fragments through carcasses; the discarded portions left behind after hunting can easily lead to the deaths of ground-hornbills and any scavengers, avian and mammal.

Finally, ground-hornbills are known to make enemies of local communities. Anyone who has ever watched a hornbill attack its reflection will be able to testify to this family’s indignant determination to see off a potential rival. Imagine a turkey-sized bird with a beak large enough to crush bone and picture the potential damage to windows, cars, and any other reflective surface. In impoverished rural communities, this destruction of property makes ground-hornbills obvious targets for persecution.

Southern ground hornbill
Just about any sort of meat that can be overpowered will be consumed. In this case a venomous puff adder

The bringer of thunder

Interestingly, throughout their range, southern ground-hornbills are the subjects of considerably disparate traditional beliefs. In some cultures, they are strongly associated with death and misfortune, which may translate to either direct killing and persecution or a taboo around harming them, depending on the belief. Ground-hornbills are sometimes associated with altered human perception, making them popular in traditional medicines.

Perhaps the most well-known belief surrounding ground-hornbills is their association with rain and thunderstorms. This likely arose since their breeding season (when they call most frequently) occurs at the height of the rainy season. So powerful is this belief in some cultures that it is thought that a single feather left in a river could result in a flood. For the most part, this association with rain (and, therefore, life) works to the benefit of the southern ground-hornbill. However, it can result in hornbills being targeted for rituals and traditional medicine during times of drought.

Conserving the ground-hornbill

Though the southern ground-hornbill is listed as “vulnerable” by the IUCN Red List, there are several countries within their range where the ground-hornbill is severely threatened, including Tanzania (also known for its Zanzibar safari experiences). They are endangered in South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland and may soon be critically endangered in South Africa and Lesotho. The populations in Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique also require concerted conservation efforts to keep numbers stable.

The many threats facing them, combined with contrasting cultural perceptions, require multi-pronged approaches from the organisations dedicated to conserving the ground-hornbill. This is accomplished through (among other initiatives) education programmes, the provision of nest boxes, and the protection of remaining habitats. Some projects also remove the second chick from the nest (only the older chick survives under natural conditions) and hand-raise the youngsters. Artificial breeding groups are created before the birds are released back into their former range. This must be done in such a way that the birds do not form an attachment to the human caregivers (through puppets and other methods). The young hornbills must also be given sufficient “helper practice” during the first, crucial developmental stage years.

Africa Geographic Travel

Tortoises are something of a ground-hornbill speciality

Conclusion

Sadly, the very traits that make southern ground-hornbills one of Africa’s most iconic bird species have made them more vulnerable to human impact. Fortunately, programmes aimed at changing perceptions through culturally bespoke initiatives are showing signs of success. Protecting the southern ground-hornbill is essential not just because of their ecological role. They are complex, social animals, and we still do not fully understand the nuances of their intelligence or evolution. Through research, we hope to learn more on the finer nuances of this charismatic bird. 

Resources

Watch a leopard raiding a ground-hornbill nest here.

Those wishing to contribute to the conservation of ground-hornbills can visit the Mabula Ground-Hornbill Project here.

 

Comment – teamAG – Friday 25 February 2022

Comment – teamAG
Making the most of the moment when a bull elephant comes close to check you out. Elephants Alive is a project supported by our travel & conservation club.

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Extraordinary pics + Chitake killing fields + caracals & Tom Cruise about town

As I sip my early morning mug of pressed coffee …

Tom Cruise is 250m away in a gorgeous boutique guesthouse – probably conducting his early morning rituals. He is in town for several months to shoot Mission Impossible 8. The chop of helicopter rotors overhead has become part of our lives as he travels to and from the steep forested gorges west of town. Tom has charmed this sleepy bushveld town on the Greater Kruger border with his down-to-earth manner – a true gent. Many celebs pass through on the way to nearby lodges, but few have stirred local imagination like our Tom.

Other local news is that a crocodile attacked a lady as she fished a nearby river and a young girl was dragged from her bed by a hyena. Both survived but suffered severe injuries and psychological trauma. And the marula trees are dripping with delicious fruit, driving elephants wild as they scramble to harvest this nutritious annual bounty. Life goes on.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor

After viewing this week’s Photographer of the Year selection, I’m dreaming of travel. Playful youngsters are stealing the limelight: check out the tiny jackals, baboon, leopard and seals in our third story. From new life to its creation by honeymooning lions, our photographers are pulling out the stops to capture the untamed continent.

So too has Jens Cullman, who in our first story battled the heat and dust to photograph the rituals of the Chitake Springs killing fields. The raw tension is palpable in Jens’ images – undoubtedly why the Chitake safari we offer at the end of the story booked out within hours of going live.

Our second story focuses on the urban caracals of Cape Town. I have been fortunate to bump into one in a Western Cape village – an experience more will have, with research showing caracals are attracted to the fringes of human development, at significant risk.

Right now, I’m plotting how to get to the lush Kgalagadi, which is singing with life after rains. Where will you be making your next wild discovery?


From our Scientific Editor

We all know that one person who revels in the discomfit of others as they pop and crack their various joints, from knuckles to necks. What causes this noise? This has proven to be a vexing question with several explanations, though the most common cause is likely gas bubbles caused by sudden negative pressure. Another potential explanation – like the elands in our ‘Did you know?’ fact of the week below – is the movement or readjustment of tendons and ligaments.

The good news? Cracking joints does not cause arthritis. Dr Donald Unger spent 60 years popping the knuckles of his left hand and not his right, with no unfortunate consequences. He was awarded the 2009 Ig Nobel Prize for his efforts – a suitable reward for his dedication to science.


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/chitake-killing-fields/
KILLING FIELDS
Chitake Springs is a remote camping area in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park – offering an extremely wild, untamed safari experience

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/caracals-of-cape-town/
URBAN CARACALS
Caracals are attracted to the edge of urban spaces at significant risk, according to recent research.

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-3/
EXTRAORDINARY PICS
Our selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 3 is out now

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

SOLD OUT – BUT …

Our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe) sold out within hours of going live on our website after publishing an epic photo gallery and video this week. So we have opened a new slot for those that missed out. We are unlikely to add further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!

CAN YOU FEEL IT?
Check out this I-want-to-be-there video from club member Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge – can you feel the sand between your toes and picture that idyllic sunset through the glass of your ice-cold mojito? Check out this island retreat and other camps & lodges here.


DID YOU KNOW: What goes click click click? When mature eland bulls over a certain size walk, their knees produce a loud clicking sound believed to be caused by a tendon slipping over the leg bone. One study suggests that this is used by males as a display of dominance. Click here for more


WATCH: Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? Check out this epic video (0:31). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 3

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

The herd brings the drama as it arrives at a spring to drink. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
An infant chacma baboon is fascinated by a blob of drool. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
A leopard peers out at distant wildlife from a large Mashatu (nyala) tree. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Chris Jolley
A female southern-masked weaver inspects her mate’s work. KwaZulu Natal, South Africa. © Cindee Beechwood
A southern ground-hornbill shows off its impressive wingspan in flight. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © David Pugh
A sizeable Mozambique spitting cobra spreads its hood in self-defence upon release into Buffelsdrift Game and Nature Reserve, after being safely removed from a residential area. Roodeplaat, South Africa. © Dean Polley
Africa Geographic Travel
Full moon just after sunset. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Pieter Dannhauser
After following each other closely while both hunting for small prey, an immature pale chanting goshawk and slender mongoose face off in the stumps of a dead tree. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hendrik Steyn
A lioness stares at vultures perched in a dead leadwood tree above. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Henrico Muller
A Cape fur seal and pup find some breathing space in the midst of a robust, successful breeding colony off the west coast of South Africa. Namaqua National Park, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer
Briefly vexed in the midst of a honeymoon. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Vicki Santello
Red-billed queleas catch the first rays of sun for the day. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
Africa Geographic Travel
An immature martial eagle perches at a great height near Lower Sabie Rest Camp. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © John Mullineux
Lolling about in the midmorning lull. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Karen Bongrain
A giant of Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
A joyous greeting between a mother black-backed jackal and her pups. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
A painted reed frog enjoys an evening sojourn on a lily pad. This image was captured using an underwater camera submerged underneath the lily pad, with a torch positioned above. Sabie, South Africa. © Veronique Pretorius
A black-headed heron’s patience pays off at Leeuwdril Waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Leon Labuschagne
Luluka, a well-known leopard of Maasai Mara, hunts an unsuspecting steenbok after a long, slow stalk. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Peter Hudson
Africa Geographic Travel
Catching the last rays of sun at the world’s largest Cape fur seal breeding colony. Cape Cross Seal Reserve, Namibia. © Peter Reitze
A chimpanzee rests in the darkness of the tropical forest. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca
After being chased up a leadwood tree by two hyena, a leopard settles down for dinner. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Pieter Dannhauser
Maasai Mara resident leopard Luluka and cub head back from a playful drink. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ruzdi Ekenheim
Sand bathing in the desert dirt. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro
Putting up a tremendous struggle after an ambush on the river bank. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Vicki Santello
A leopard enjoys a midday nap directly overhead, allowing a unique angle for the photographer. South Luangwa, Zambia. © Alastair Stewart

Caracals of Cape Town – navigating a landscape of fear

caracal
Their proximity to urban areas poses significant risks to caracal populations

With the ever-expanding human population, wild animals across the globe have had to find a way to adapt to our presence. This means balancing the potential rewards (increased foraging opportunities) with the inevitable risks (such as conflict with people and domestic animals, and hazardous traffic). New research from the Urban Caracal Project examines how caracals navigate the dangers of city life in the Cape Peninsula. These highly adaptable mesocarnivores (mid-sized carnivores) are attracted to the interface of human development and wild spaces – at a significant potential cost. 

To investigate how caracals adapt their behaviours, researchers from the project focused on the cats’ foraging-habitat selection across the Cape Peninsula – a section of Table Mountain National Park (TMNP) – in Cape Town. Previous research suggests that the Peninsula population numbers between 48 and 64 caracals, and the population is geographically isolated by the city of Cape Town. The borders of this region of TMNP are predominantly urban in the north, but become progressively less so to the south. The researchers divided the study region into the ‘urban region’ (north) and the ‘wildland region’ (south).

African safari
A caracal and her kitten photographed in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, situated at the foot of Table Mountain in Cape Town

Between 2014 and 2016, 26 different caracals were captured and fitted with GPS collars. Over six months, the collars (designed to eventually fall off) provided regular updates on the caracals’ locations. The researchers combined this data with prey remains and scat analysis to examine how and where the caracals chose to hunt. They also looked at the behaviour at feeding “clusters” (where the GPS location data is clustered around a point over a specific period) to determine how the feeding caracals were behaving when in a “landscape of fear”.

The results show that caracals living in the urban region are drawn to the urban edge, foraging at the interface of the wilderness and human habitation where prey is abundant. In contrast, caracals that live in the wildland region avoid the urban edge. This selective behaviour indicates that caracals can become habituated to the presence of people and the various anthropogenic dangers. They become increasingly attracted to rewarding areas despite the risks. To mitigate the chances of being found, these “caracal urbanites” conceal themselves in surrounding vegetation and reduce their movement during times of high human activity, “hiding in plain sight”, rather than moving away.

So, is this attraction to city life a problem for caracals if they have learnt to mitigate the risks? Understanding the traits that allow caracals to persist outside of protected areas is important for designing effective conservation methods. Caracals on the fringes have learnt to trade off the increased resources with some serious risks. The dense road networks in and around cities are a significant cause of mesocarnivore mortality throughout the world, and this is particularly true for Cape Town’s caracals. In addition, exposure to things like rat poison and pesticides, as well as domestic animal diseases, remain a constant danger.

Africa Geographic Travel

caracal
Researchers from the Urban Caracal Project focused on foraging-habitat selection across the Cape Peninsula to investigate how caracals adapt their behaviours

Behavioural plasticity – a change in behaviour resulting from exposure to stimuli – is essential, but if the costs of city life outweigh the benefits, this attraction to urban fringes could reduce population fitness. This is described as an “ecological trap” – the animals are repeatedly drawn to an attractive but harmful environment – and has the potential to lead to local extinction. Thus, even though the caracals may seem to have the city “all figured out”, the Urban Caracal Project is working on reducing some of the risks they will inevitably face. Some strategies include reducing pesticides, maintaining vegetative cover (especially in vineyards, which the caracals prefer) and traffic calming, particularly at popular crossing points. 

Naturally, maintaining existing protected areas and increasing connectivity remains a priority.

Resources

The Urban Caracal Project operates in partnership with the Cape Leopard Trust. If you would like to learn more about their projects and research or potentially contribute to their vital work, you can do so here: The Cape Leopard Trust

The full study can be accessed through a paywall here: “Hiding in plain sight: risk mitigation by a cryptic carnivore foraging at the urban edge”, Leighton, G. R. M., et al., 2021, Animal Conservation

Read more on the life of caracals here.

Chitake – predators’ playground

It was so hot, often 34 degrees Celsius by 5 am and mid-forties by late morning, that I could not transfer my precious photos – for fear of frying the computer. My cameras were so hot that at times I could not hold them for long. The gritty dust got in everywhere – including inside camera bodies and lenses. And let’s not even talk about the insects biting me 24/7 – mosquitos at night and tsetse flies by day… This is paradise, and I will be back next year!”

Every year photographer Jens Cullmann (our 2020 Photographer of the Year) spends months camping in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools during the peak of the dry season (September to October) – seeking out the famous resident painted wolves (wild dogs) – on foot, at a distance. He often waits for hours on end in the oppressive heat at favourite stake-outs and waits for the drama to unfold. At other times he walks for hours, revelling in the pure bliss of being self-sufficient in one of Africa’s iconic wildlife meccas.

His 2021 sojourn was different. “There were fewer dogs this year – but more hyenas (clans of up to 20) and lions. And I saw fewer big bull elephants this year. So I decided to move my base camp to Chitake Springs.”

Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools National Park – on the Chitake River, a tributary of the Zambezi River. The campsite has no facilities and campers have to be self-sufficient and comfortable amongst wild animals. The spring is a perennial water source in a usually dry riverbed and provides the only water source for concentrations of wildlife. Large herds of buffalo, elephant and other herbivores converge on the water – especially during the late dry season – and predators line the steep river channel banks to ambush their desperate prey as they drink.

Jens continues: “At times, it was carnage as lions killed six buffalo calves per day. I have heard that they also target young elephants here, but this time it was all about the huge buffalo herds.”

His parting thoughts: “Chitake Springs at this time of year is very hard work for a photographer – physically very demanding and tough on your equipment. It gets hotter than it does along the Zambezi River because there is no cooling river breeze, and there is more dust. And the camping is far more basic and insular. I worked hard to produce the images below – and hope that AG’s passionate fans enjoy them.” 

We share a few of Jens’ favourite images from this trip in this gallery. To stay in touch with Jens, please follow him on Instagram and Facebook, where he regularly shares his pictures and thoughts.


Scroll to the end of this gallery to book your place on a guided safari to this photographic haven, and view a dramatic video of lions killing a buffalo as witnessed by Jens.


 

Africa Geographic Travel Africa Geographic Travel

BOOK NOW

BOOK YOUR PLACE IN OUR PHOTOGRAPHER-GUIDED SAFARI TO CHITAKE SPRINGS


Comment – teamAG – Friday 18 February 2022

Comment – teamAG
Fancy a bit of this? Visit our travel & conservation club for the lowest prices at Africa’s best camps & lodges. © Azura Benguerra Island

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Finest photos + celebrating glorious gerenuks + sidestepping rhino realities

The denial and spin continues …

South Africa’s Minister of the Environment – Barbara Creecy – hosted this CRINGEWORTHY scripted ‘interview’ a few days ago, where she again heralded the drop in rhino poaching numbers as a ‘step-change in anti-poaching activities’. However, again she ignored the primary reason for the reduced poaching – the 75% plummet in Kruger rhino populations over the last 10 years.

BUT this time, she went one step further – claiming a ‘shift in poaching to private reserves’ and suggesting that government anti-poaching units were doing so well that they could now educate private landowners. Chokes on his breakfast cereal. The poaching numbers from 2021 suggest that she is either misinformed or intentionally DEFLECTING focus from the facts. 451 rhinos were poached last year, of which +/- 320 were from government reserves/parks.

My network suggests that about 1,500 Kruger rhinos remain (2020 estimate was 2,809) – from 11,026 a decade ago.

Perhaps anti-poaching funding is due for renewal, and this was a publicity stunt? It’s time for our minister to extract ground-level info and shift from spin doctoring to factual accuracy. She is blessed with hard-working, loyal staff in the reserves – and yet she ignores their input. She should address the REAL ISSUES that hamper efforts to save rhinos – like endemic corruption at all levels of government.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor

What goes into taking the perfect photograph?
All of the photographers featured in this week’s Photographer of the Year selection can attest to the power of being at the exact right place at the right time: at a waterhole in Addo Elephant National Park as hyenas take down a kudu; on the banks of Chitake Springs as a herd of buffalo storms in to drink; up at the crack of dawn to capture the vapours of a lion’s warm breath on a cold Maasai Mara morning; tracking an Ethiopian wolf on the Sanetti Plateau moments before it hunts; or waiting out the pouring rain for the reward of a dramatic cheetah hunt in Phinda. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below. Our first story deals with a rather photogenic, cheerful, and comical subject: the gawky gerenuk of East Africa.

There is an extraordinary experience waiting around every corner of wild Africa. All you need is a little patience, and a pinch of luck. And quite a bit of preparation.

Being at the right place at the right time takes planning: working out itineraries, seeking out expert guides, finding the best route and transport, and the ideal spot to lay your head. That’s why our team of safari experts is constantly planning once-in-a-lifetime experiences for our AG tribe. You can check out these safaris on our website and these camps and lodges in our private travel and conservation club.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/gerenuk-africas-gawky-oddball/
GLORIOUS GERENUK
Endearing, comical and almost alien – these giraffe gazelle are high on the safari bucket list

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-2/
BEST PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 2 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari.


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

IT’S SPECIALS SEASON!
We have added two lip-smacking special offers to our travel desk – each of which offers an epic safari at seldom-seen prices.

  1. Stay 4, pay 3 at the stunning & luxurious Tintswalo Safari Lodge in the Big 5 Manyeleti Game Reserve (Greater Kruger, South Africa). Check out the low price for club members in the info section on the right.
  2. 3 places left6 days in the magical Botswana wilderness for US$2,215. This is a fully catered mobile safari that journeys to Moremi and Khwai.

DID YOU KNOW: Familiar voice: HIPPOS recognise vocalisations from individuals and respond differently to those of “strangers”


WATCH: Super tuskers – huge, gentle, majestic icons of a species under pressure (0:36)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 2

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

A view to a kill. Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya. © Alastair Stewart
A herd of buffalo rushes down to Chitake Springs to drink, raising a cloud of dust. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca
Two white rhino – horns blunted after removal – form a striking image in Greater Kruger. South Africa. © Dominic Cruz
Heading out on a cold August morning. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Boone Thomson
A young caracal renders a piercing stare at dusk. Caracals have remained resilient in the face of the rapid urbanisation of the Cape Peninsula. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town. © Braeme Holland
The herd crashes onto the banks of Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
Africa Geographic Travel
A serval kitten stays close to its protective mom. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
Of all the big cats, leopards are the strongest climbers. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Dawie Maree
A trio of lions strengthen their social bonds through licking and nuzzling. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Dirk Johnen
An elegant little egret scrutinises its surroundings for hunting potential. Amanzimtoti, South Africa. © Dominic Cruz
A young Mundari herder holds onto two massive-horned Ankole-Watusi cattle, considered ‘kings of the cattle’. South Sudan. © Joe Buergi
Three white rhinos, closely guarded for protection, continue to graze into the early evening. Great Karoo, South Africa. © Hennie Blignaut
An endangered Ethiopian wolf heads along the Sanetti Plateau with its ice rat prey. Bale Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer
Africa Geographic Travel
A master of camouflage, the mossy leaf-tailed gecko blends into the bark of whichever tree forms its perch. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, Madagascar. © Sumeet Moghe
A young cheetah is shielded by the tall grasses of Deception Valley. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Jens Cullmann
An exhausted kudu faces up to its fate. Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa. © Antionette Morkel
An African rock python curls up safely in the high branches near Duke waterhole. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Johan
The textures and colours of Augrabies Falls at sunrise after heavy rains in early 2022 make for a spectacular sight. Augrabies Falls National Park, South Africa. © John Mullineux
A wildebeest herd makes its daily trek across the dry lake beds to access lush green grasses. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Kerry de Bruyn
Waking up at sunset after a light nap. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
Africa Geographic Travel
Taking a breather while feeding after a dramatic zebra hunt in the pouring rain. Phinda Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Povall
Two hippos have it out on the Chobe River. Botswana. © Antionette Morkel
This spotted hyena had a thorough roll in a muddy, almost-dry waterhole to cool off in the heat of the day. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Melanie Loubser
A leopard gains leverage from an angled tusk while feeding on an elephant carcass. Botswana. © Raquel Barao
A highly venomous Egyptian saw-scaled viper seen on the shores of Lake Baringo. This small snake accounts for a high number of snakebites in Africa – many of which are lethal. Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse
A pregnant lioness targets a wildebeest tripped up in the confusion of a startled herd at Salvadora waterhole. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Sumeet Moghe
Lions bring down a buffalo separated from its herd in Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca
A hooded vulture in graceful flight. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Urs Niklaus
A gerenuk’s characteristic neck holds its head up high. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
A helmeted guineafowl forages in the early morning. Indlovu River Lodge, Greater Kruger. © Braeme Holland

Gerenuk – Africa’s gawky oddball

Africa boasts an impressive collection of over 70 antelope species. Some, like sable and gemsbok, are stately and proud. Others, like impala and springbok, are elegant and graceful. Bongo, kudu and nyala are drop-dead gorgeous, and the little duikers are indisputably cute. And then there is the gerenuk…

The basics

It’s probably somewhat unfair to label the gerenuk (Litocranius walleri) strange or weird-looking. After all, we are perfectly happy to accept a five-ton animal with a prehensile nose or one that stands over four metres tall and has a purple tongue. Perhaps it is simply a matter of exposure – gerenuk very seldom have a starring role in nature documentaries, nor do they feature heavily in artistic photographs of Africa’s wildlife in all its glory. Yet, there is something captivating about the gerenuk that draws the eye and makes it difficult to look away. They are, for want of a better word, goofy.

Gerenuk seem, for all the world, as though some cosmic power took hold of an impala and stretched it vertically without adding any proportional width. Their necks are absurdly long, and this, combined with the unique ability to balance on slender hind legs unsupported, allows them to feed at heights of over two meters. To complete this bizarre image, they have disproportionately small heads, which only serve to make their eyes look enormous.

Africa Geographic Travel

The name gerenuk comes from the Somali name for the animal: gáránúug.

Unravelling the exact genetic relationships between antelopes is devilishly complex and very much a work in progress. With the advent of improved genetic sequencing techniques, genetic evidence regularly contradicts what appears to be obvious morphological similarities. We know that despite the similarity in looks and colour, gerenuk are not closely related to impala at all.

Instead, gerenuk belong to the Antelopini tribe, which includes the true gazelles (like the Thomson’s gazelle). They are also the only member of the genus Litocranius. Bizarrely, within the Antelopini tribe, the gerenuk is related to the springbok, though the two do not overlap in range at all. While springbok are confined to the drier parts of Southern Africa, the gerenuk is spread across the semi-arid areas of northern Tanzania, Kenya, Djibouti, Ethiopia and Somalia. Across parts of this range in Somalia, the gerenuk is sympatric with another antelope called the dibatag or Clarke’s gazelle (Amoodorcas clarkei), which may be their closest relative. This has yet to be genetically confirmed, and, while the two are placed in separate genera, they are almost identical but for their horns and facial markings.

Reaching where no other antelope can

Quick Facts

Shoulder height: Males: 89-105cm
Females: 80-100cm
Mass: Males: 31-52kg
Females: 28-45kg
Social structure: Small herds or solitary
Gestation: 6.5-7 months
Life expectancy: Up to 13 years or longer in captivity
Conservation status: Near Threatened

 

How the gerenuk got its neck

It is a great shame that Rudyard Kipling, in the bedtime tales he told his daughter, did not alight upon the gerenuk as a possible protagonist because it is perfectly suited for a fanciful tale about how it came to look the way it does. Indeed, such a tale might provide a useful starting point because, in truth, we still don’t fully understand the process. Long necks have evolved independently in several extant (and many extinct) species, from dinosaurs to their living relatives (like ostriches) and from giraffe to the gerenuk, inspiring many a theory on their origins.

Africa Geographic Travel

The apparent answer offered to most of us in school biology lessons on the giraffe is that long necks allow for access to juicy leaves above the reach of other competitive browsers. Unfortunately, life (and, by extension, evolution) is seldom this simple. Scientists have offered up several competing theories that have turned the giraffe’s cervical region into an icon of evolutionary biology. As it turns out, long necks have several useful functions, including fighting, watching for predators, and thermoregulation. And of course, the long neck may have evolved for one reason but conferred several advantages later on.

As for gerenuk, their curious bipedal predilection suggests that in their case, a mouthful of fresh leaves was evolution’s ultimate goal. Not only are their top two cervical vertebrae modified to prevent sub-luxation (in other words, a serious crick in the neck), but their lumbar vertebrae are also designed to aid their balance, as are their wedge-shaped hind hooves. Though most people are simply taken aback by the sight of an upright antelope, a closer look also reveals a supportive set of gluteal and thigh muscles that would make even the most avid cyclist jealous.

Gerenuk
A ram tests a ewe for her oestrus state

Peering at the neighbours

Adult male gerenuk are territorial and solitary, generally only associating with the females that wander into their range. These territories are habitually marked by a viscous black secretion from the preorbital glands. The females are somewhat more social but generally only form small herds of fewer than six individuals. Their associations are temporary, and solitary females are a common sight.

Interestingly, despite their preference for dry habitats, the females do not seem to have a seasonal oestrus period, and they can breed throughout the year. As with all antelope, the fawns are born precocial and can stand on wobbly legs as early as 15 minutes after birth. Adorably, records from hand-reared and captive fawns show that they will start trying to balance on their hind legs from as early as two weeks old. Wild gerenuk mothers typically hide their fawns in dense vegetation for up to four months, returning every morning and evening to suckle them.

By a year old, the young are fully independent of their mothers. At this point, male offspring will occasionally form bachelor groups with other sub-adults for another two years until fully grown and capable of fighting for and defending a territory.

Unlike their Thomson’s gazelle cousins, gerenuk are reluctant runners, relying on their keen senses and surprising ability to melt into the background. When facing a predator, they will trot away or adopt a “stotting” behaviour, a high-kneed, stiff trot. A full gallop is generally reserved for emergencies, and even then, the gerenuk only reaches top speeds around half of that of a springbok or Thomson’s gazelle. This sedentary lifestyle also helps them to conserve water.

Gerenuk
The exceptional gerenuk neck at full stretch
Africa Geographic Travel

Where to find them in the wild?

Gerenuk prefer thornbush, avoid dense thickets or open grasslands and their densities increase in dry regions where competition with other browsers is reduced. They are perfectly adapted to survive in even the driest areas and can go for months, if not years, without drinking. The moisture that they require is drawn from selective browsing. Like most arid-dwelling animals, their kidneys are well designed to reduce water loss by concentrating their urine, and specially designed nasal passages minimise evaporative loss.

Current estimates suggest that there are fewer than 100,000 gerenuk left in the wild, and their numbers are decreasing, prompting the IUCN to change their conservation status to “Near Threatened” on the Red List in 2008. This is expected to change to “Vulnerable” in the not-too-distant future, particularly as density information from Somali is scant but unlikely to be positive. Habitat degradation and unsustainable hunting are responsible for at least a 25% decline in numbers over the past two decades.

Fortunately, their numbers remain stable in most protected spaces across their range. A visit to Kenya’s Samburu and Meru regions will guarantee sightings of these dainty antelope, and they are also found in scattered numbers in Amboseli, Lewa and the parts of Tsavo. In Tanzania, they are reasonably common around Lake Natron.


Consider this special Kenya safari offer to see gerenuk and other dryland specialists: Maasai Mara and Samburu – 7 days for US$3,640 per person sharing


Want to go on safari to see gerenuks? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Gerenuk
A ewe and a ram performing their most endearing trick

Conclusion

These tiny “giraffe gazelle” are decidedly endearing and, yes, even comic. But once you get used to the somewhat alien appearance of the unique gerenuk, you start appreciating that they are genuinely one of Africa’s most wondrous creations.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 11 February 2022

Comment – teamAG
This is the famous Black Tip of BBC Earth’s Dynasties fame. © Nicholas Dyer

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Best pics + super tuskers + hope for painted wolves

Taps the mic …

Last week was a HAPPY WEEK for our fledgling travel & conservation club. We paid out our first round of conservation project donations to the lucky recipients. This is the humble beginning of what we hope will become a steady stream of vital funding from YOU, our club members, to those carefully selected projects. Thanks SO MUCH for those once-off donations and monthly pledges – no matter how modest. We forward the entire amount received from you to the projects, the only deductions being bank/platform fees. This is only the beginning, ladies and gents – please support us in our mission to increase our combined positive impact on the ground – in Africa. Join the club to contribute via constructive discussions, donate to projects, and go on safari at carefully selected camps & lodges.

These past few weeks, your teamAG has been green with ENVY at the daily updates from our safari guru Christian Boix as he trawled Tsavo and Amboseli in Kenya for super tuskers, predators, aardvarks and those amazing eye-level hippos in the crystal clear water of Mzima Springs – amongst other epic encounters. Christian is mostly desk-bound for his role as our safari director, but now and then, we set him free to host long-standing safari clients – a task he relishes. On this occasion, he accompanied regular safari client Roger Whittle. Roger has a LIFE LIST, and each year he ticks off a few more epic encounters with us. Be like Roger 😉

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor

Pleased to meet you, AG tribe. I’m your new editor.

A few weeks into this summer’s heavy rains in the South African Highveld, I witnessed a spectacle in the sleepy town of Heidelberg, Gauteng. Hundreds of ever-patient giant bullfrogs emerged in an unremarkable field alongside a cigarette factory after five years underground. Scientists don’t know how the bullfrogs know that a particular puddle will last the 24 days required for tadpole metamorphosis – yet when the rains come, they rise from slumber en masse, competing aggressively for breeding rights.

Not long after the spectacle, my own patience was rewarded. It feels surreal introducing myself to you as the new AG editor, as a long-time follower of the brand that has inspired my wanderlust, driven my intrigue for conservation, and affirmed my love for this wild continent.

Our three stories below will activate your own wanderlust – from Christian’s travels, to wild dogs, and our first epic selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 photos.

I can’t wait to lead you to rare experiences, inspire you to get your feet on the ground, and to celebrate Africa with you.


From our Scientific Editor

“It takes a village to raise a child” – a saying generally attributed to African origins. I’ve been trying to devise a suitable conservation equivalent because a similar theme applies. The back-breaking process of protecting a species (or wild space) is a collective one. Cooperation and knowledge-sharing are vital if we are to gain an overall perspective of the survival prospects of any one animal.

This is precisely the approach followed by the conservationists at the Painted Wolf Foundation. They have compiled a comprehensive review of the state of painted wolves across the continent and devised a plan to secure their future. Read all about it in our second story below.

Next week, Dianne Skinner of the Painted Wolf Foundation will be one of the many experts presenting their experiences in saving these charismatic carnivores. The African Wild Dogs United Virtual Conference will run from the 14th to the 18th of February, and the not-to-be-missed programme features the biggest names in painted wolf conservation. For more information on how to purchase tickets, have a look at this post on our club forum.


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/time-with-super-tuskers/
SUPER TUSKERS
Searching for super tuskers? We spotted three legendary elephants in one safari trip – here’s how

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/hope-for-african-wild-dogs-new-report/
PAINTED WOLVES
Could we double African wild dog numbers by 2050? With funding, collaboration and recovered territory, it’s possible

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-1/
BEST PHOTOS
The first weekly selection of entries for Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Cash prizes of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari are up for grabs.


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

CEO’s choice: SPECIAL OFFER – A small window has opened to enjoy a 6-day fully catered mobile safari to Moremi and Khwai in Botswana for the crazy price of US$2,215 per person sharing. This glamping safari runs in late April, and there are 4 spaces left at this price.

• See the safari details here: Moremi Magic

• Watch a video about mobile safaris in Botswana

• Read this travelogue by our CEO about his time on this safari


DID YOU KNOW: An elephant’s trunk is one of the most sensitive body parts in the animal kingdom. It is supplied by two trigeminal nerve ganglions, each of which has around 400,000 nerves


WATCH: ‘Money makes them unsympathetic’ – a powerful doccie about mining on South Africa’s west coast and its effects on local people and the environment (37:15)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 1

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week 

The Tano Bora all-male coalition sets out on the hunt. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Alex Nilles
Preparing for touchdown, a white-backed vulture comes in for a landing. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
A serval zones in on its prey. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid
Atop a termite mound, a cheetah and cubs warm up in the morning sun. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andy Campbell
Two cubs creep out of their den, near Balule Satellite Camp, to meet their mother in the early morning light. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Charmaine Joubert
Africa Geographic Travel
Zig zagging across the waters, a large wildebeest herd ventures the hazardous crossing of the Mara River. © Dale Davis
Crossing the chilled waters in Moremi. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jens Cullmann
Shaking off the dampness after a soak from a thunderstorm. MalaMala Game Reserve, South Africa. © Damon Hoskin
A male southern masked weaver starts construction on a nest, hoping to attract a female that will approve of the new dwelling. Buffesldrift Game and Nature Reserve, South Africa. © Dean Polley
While the pack rests on the fringes of the Okavango Delta, one wild dog keeps her eye on a cheetah and cub passing by. Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. © Hesté de Beer
An African darter fluffs its feathers while waiting for the warmth of the sun on a cold morning. Wilderness, Western Cape, South Africa. © Dominique Maree
Africa Geographic Travel
Interacting in the limbs of a tree just before dark. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
A black rhino dashes one final glance at the camera before hightailing it in the opposite direction. Kenya. © Andy Campbell
Two San bushmen enjoying the sunset on a dune in the Kalahari Desert. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa.    © Ferdinand Veer
After stealing an impala kill from a leopard on the edge of the Sand River, a Nile crocodile clamps down on its prize. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Gabriel Keet
A wobble of ostriches huddles in the dust near Rooiputs waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Gert Lamprecht
A Tonga fisherman spears a fish caught by the tide in a “fake” kraal trap. Kosi Bay, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer
Africa Geographic Travel
A Maasai warrior poses with his weapons. Tanzania. © Jack Swynnerton
Two gemsbok butt heads during a brawl. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Jason Kandume
An African skimmer fishes in the early morning. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
A red-billed oxpecker and buffalo enjoy the water at Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann
The curious gorilla infant focuses its gaze on the photographer while its mother continues to feed. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Karen Bongrain
A mud bath gets messy for the photographer. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley
On safari at Tuludi Camp with Africa Geographic, our skilful guide led us away from an agitated matriarch as she launched into an unprovoked charge about 200m from the vehicle. Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. © Hesté de Beer
Resting on the parched plains with a backdrop of billowing smoke. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andy Campbell
An Ethiopian herder watches over his cattle as they rest. Ethiopia. © Kevin Dooley
A lioness keeps a watchful eye on her onlookers through the carcass of a kill. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Michael Tucker
A cub – offspring of the famously successful cheetah mother, Kisaru – takes a brisk jog through the dry grass. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Venkateshwar Govindaraj

Hope for African wild dogs? New report

wild dogs
Wild dog populations are under threat – but there is hope for the future

Could African wild dog (painted wolf) populations double by 2050? A theory of change offered in a new report proposes it may be possible to save one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores – through collaboration, recovering former territory and improved funding. These athletic predators have suffered centuries of persecution, and the space available to them is ever-shrinking. How are wild dogs faring across Africa, and what can be done to secure their future? Conservationists and scientists from the Painted Wolf Foundation have compiled a comprehensive assessment of the state of painted wolf conservation – from population estimates to conservation strategies – and hypothesise that numbers could double in the best-case scenario.

The method

Executive director of the Painted Wolf Foundation Diane Skinner identified and approached 37 individuals from 28 organisations operating in 12 African countries. Where possible, the organisations selected are directly involved in monitoring and conserving painted wolves or are responsible for managing protected areas within their range. Collectively, these organisations cover over 800,000km2 (80 million hectares) of painted wolf habitat – home to at least 4,500 wild dogs.

The 145-page report – Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf – looks into the broader conservation landscape of painted wolves, and includes a breakdown by country.

wild dog
Habitat loss and fragmentation is a major threat to painted wolf populations

The findings

Painted Wolf Foundation has estimated the current population numbers as below, providing an anecdotal snapshot in time. These numbers and the direction of change reflect those taken during 2020, at the time of consultation.

The largest populations of painted wolves of the areas surveyed occurred in:

  • Luengue-Luiana National Park (Angola): ±600
  • Northern Botswana: 700–800
  • Niassa Special Reserve (Mozambique): 300–350
  • The Kruger Ecosystem (South Africa): 250–400
  • The Ruaha Landscape (Tanzania): ±500
  • The Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia): ±300
  • The Zambezi Valley (Zimbabwe): ±250

[Editorial note: at the time of research, detailed information about the population in the Selous/Nyerere Ecosystem (Tanzania) was not available. However, assessments from 2012 suggested this region was home to one of the largest populations of painted wolves in Africa at the time.]

Populations are believed to be increasing in:

  • Aire de Conservation de Chinko (Central African Republic)
  • Gorongosa National Park and surrounds (Mozambique) [Editorial note: painted wolves were reintroduced to the national park in 2018.]
  • Private reserves in South Africa as part of the Wild Dog Range Expansion Project
  • The Serengeti Ecosystem (Tanzania)
  • Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia)

Populations are believed to be decreasing in:

  • Okamatapati and Otjituuo Conservancies (Namibia)
  • Greater Kafue Ecosystem (Zambia)

The remaining populations are either stable, or their status is unknown (but likely decreasing in many of the regions surveyed).

 

Hope for painted wolves?
Current reported status of painted wolf populations across Africa

The threats

The report identifies the major threats facing wild dogs across Africa. Naturally, these are region-specific (take, for example, this case of a declining dynasty in Mana Pools), and certain threats may be more significant than others. However, a common theme is habitat loss and fragmentation – one of the greatest threats to wildlife in Africa. This is particularly true in the case of the painted wolf, which is a wide-ranging species that occurs at low population densities. In South Africa, for example, painted wolves once roamed the entire country but are now restricted to just a fraction of their historic range (a comparative map of former and present ranges can be found here).

Painted wolves are also victims of the illegal bushmeat trade, as snares and gin traps intended for antelope are indiscriminate. Outbreaks of diseases such as distemper or rabies, carried by domestic dogs, can wipe out entire packs. Road accidents are also common causes of wild dog mortalities in some areas. Conflict with farmers occurs throughout the painted wolf range, even though their reputation as mass livestock killers far exceeds their actual impact.

All of the above threats are exacerbated by the fact that wild dogs struggle to persist with high densities of competing predators like lions and spotted hyenas. As most of Africa’s wildlife is now concentrated in protected areas, painted wolves are forced to exist on the periphery of these regions, increasing their chances of encountering anthropogenic threats.

Africa Geographic Travel
wild dog
Attending to a snare victim

African wild dog conservation gaps

While celebrating the impressive efforts of various conservation initiatives working to protect wild dogs, the report shows that, when looking at the species as a whole, the best that can be said is their numbers are somewhat stable. In many areas across their range, numbers are decreasing, while in others, there are yawning gaps in knowledge about numbers, status, and movements. The threats facing this charismatic species are not dissipating and will become more severe as the human population burgeons, exacerbating habitat loss.

So how to shift the paradigm from individually treading water to safely increasing painted wolf rangelands and supporting the species across the continent? The report’s authors first pinpointed the conservation gaps – where tried and tested conservation measures are not deployed due to a lack of funding, knowledge, or expertise. These include macro issues such as a lack of effective habitat management and comprehensive community engagement and education. Filling these gaps would help create protected landscapes where all wildlife, including painted dogs, can thrive.

However, conservation of painted wolves requires species-specific interventions to address the micro issues, such as the management of disease outbreaks or denning behaviour close to hostile communities. In many areas, the organisations attempting to protect painted wolves lack technical resources or funding (or both). In others, there are no organisations specifically directing their attention to wild dog conservation. Even though there are existing conservation methods that have proved highly effective, there are few mechanisms whereby nascent organisations learn these methods or benefit from the experiences of others.

Hope for painted wolves?
Education is key to protecting painted wolves and improving conservation efforts

Embedded constraints

In addition to identifying conservation gaps, the report also points to constraints within painted wolf conservation initiatives. These include the image and perception of painted wolves (as vermin, feral dogs), the need for a unifying global voice, and strategic collaboration to share day-to-day challenges and solutions for shared learning.

The most significant constraint is, unsurprisingly, funding and fundraising. The Painted Wolf Foundation report roughly estimates that painted wolves across the entire continent receive US$2.5 million in conservation funding each year. To put this into perspective, South Africa’s state organisations alone may spend upwards of US$80 million annually to protect the country’s rhinos. Their poor image perception and lack of conspicuous crises (such as poaching) render painted wolves’ fundraising appeal narrow. For smaller organisations with limited personnel, the fundraising burden is enormous.

A theory of change

With these gaps and constraints in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation partnered with the Wildlife Conservation Network to conceive a “theory of change”. This three-pronged approach was developed with the goal of doubling the number of wild dogs in Africa by 2050. The three strategies are:

  1. Improve and support existing painted wolf conservation through increased funding and shared best practices.
  2. Recover former territory where painted wolf populations have been eradicated so they can naturally recolonise or be sustainably reintroduced. This would benefit not just painted wolves but also work to ensure a more secure future for other wildlife.
  3. Encourage, fund and support collaborations between painted wolf conservationists and other entities. Improving communication and collaboration between organisations is essential for the future of painted wolves but comes at an inevitable cost.

With these measures in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation and Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) are actively fundraising with the ambition to create the Painted Wolf Fund. This will be run on the same lines as the WCN’s successful Lion Recovery Fund and Elephant Crisis Fund.

How to help the wild dog

The report produced by the Painted Wolf Foundation is one of the most comprehensive and up-to-date assessments of painted wolf conservation ever published. It reads not as a criticism of current conservation initiatives but as a celebration of the valiant efforts of dedicated individuals and organisations. However, the threats facing painted wolves will only increase. It will take a monumental feat of collaboration to change the trajectory to ensure they survive and thrive. This analysis provides a fundamental starting point for this process.

To support their work, you can donate to The Painted Wolf Foundation here

Resources

Access the report: Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf. Skinner, D., Dyer, N., Blinston, P., Thomson, P., Lindsey, Dr P., Hofmeyr, M. (2021). Painted Wolf Foundation, Wildlife Conservation Network.

Painted Wolf Foundation’s Diane Skinner will be presenting a special session (Securing the future of the painted wolf: a strategy for transforming the trajectory of Lycaon pictus), at the African Wild Dogs United virtual conference on Tuesday 15 February. To find out more and to register for the event, click here.

For more information on the report, or on the Painted Wolf Foundation, email info@paintedwolf.org.

Time with super tuskers

They are the fabric of legend, and not even the simmering anticipation from days of searching can prepare seekers for the moment of finally finding one. They are the super tuskers of Africa – the last rare relics of an era long forgotten. But coming face to face with a super tusker is not always a guarantee – although it is always a highlight for even the most seasoned traveller.

Our very own safari director Christian Boix and safari client Roger Whittle recently set off on an odyssey to Amboseli and Tsavo East National Parks – known for their impressive herds of elephants – in the hopes of photographing the tuskers. Through dogged determination, they finally found what they were looking for.

tuskers
Roger captures his first image of old super tusker Craig, a legend of Amboseli

Home to giants

Tsavo has the last notable population of big tuskers in the whole of Africa. Once a common sight, roaming far and wide across East, Central and Southern Africa, big tuskers have almost been wiped off the African continent – a combined result of trophy hunting, large-scale exploitation of ivory in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and devastating poaching.

But thankfully, the last remaining tuskers are given their best chance for survival in Tsavo, where elephants are closely monitored for protection against poaching and injury.  The Tsavo Trust’s Big Tusker Project, in collaboration with Kenya Wildlife Services, provides aerial and ground support to collect data and respond to imminent threats to the living legends. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.

Today, nine giant bull tuskers remain in Tsavo. There are also 27 emerging tuskers and four iconic cow tuskers on the Tsavo Trust and KWS Tusker database – which is why visitors have the best chance of seeing some of Africa’s biggest tuskers there.

Stained red by the rich soils of the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem, the living legends make for a striking image against the towering backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro – attracting photographers from across the globe.

Africa Geographic Travel
African safari
Super tusker KM2 was sighted near Satao Camp in Tsavo East

Spotting a super tusker

Finding the super tuskers does not always come easily, and it always helps to be accompanied by more experienced seekers. It was only after a few days of searching and with a dash of luck that Christian and Roger were successful. “We found them through dogged determination. We followed up on all the latest sightings and other leads. We gambled on where we thought their feeding habits might lead them. And after days of seeking bull groups, searching from morning until evening, we finally found what we were looking for.”

tuskers
(From top) Ulysses – survivor of a spear wound and old boy of Amboseli; Christian even captured a selfie with Craig; Tsavo is known for its mud-stained elephants; Christian and Roger could not believe the luck of sighting three super tuskers on one safari trip; the giants of Amboseli march on

The party had the privilege of meeting three super tuskers on their journey. Craig, a 50-year-old gentle giant of Amboseli, is a well-loved favourite in the area. Ulysses, also one of the larger super tuskers of Amboseli, once survived a deep spear wound that was treated by vets – and was, therefore, a remarkable sighting for the duo. The party then spotted super tusker MK2 in Tsavo East.

“Craig was surrounded by an entourage of well-aged bulls. They all stuck around and stayed alert – though not fearful – when they noticed us. Each elephant took turns to sniff and check on the old man,” says Christian. And they weren’t the only ones tailing Craig. “KWS scouts were in attendance – they have a tough job keeping tabs on the safe whereabouts of each Tusker in the area.”

Africa Geographic Travel
African safari
A herd grazes in the grasses of Amboseli

While the specific locations of super tuskers are always kept under wraps, Christian says seekers will “do well to visit Satao Elerai in Amboseli and Satao Camp in Tsavo East, which serve as excellent bases from which to find the legends”. Here, visitors can spend much time on safari with knowledgeable guides who have worked in the area for years. Satao Elerai also offers night game drives in the conservancy, which not all lodges in the area do.

And what to do after finally snapping a legend? “Book our next trip!” says Christian. “Roger could not get enough of my almost fanatical obsession to track down a target!”

Want to go on an African safari to seek super tuskers? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Christian and Roger visited Satao Elerai and Satao Camp as their bases for searching for the super tuskers.

You can learn more about Tsavo Trust here. 

You can also join us as we walk with the giants of Tsavo East on a 13-day adventure, where we follow elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River.


WATCH: Meet Craig – super tusker (0:36)


 

Comment – teamAG – Friday 04 February 2022

Comment – teamAG
Come on safari with AG – it will change your perspective on life. 

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Start your engines + great elephant news + best safari time of day?

It’s THAT time of year again. Entries are now open for our annual celebration of Africa’s amazingness, and we have already seen epic images arriving in the inbox. Our Photographer of the Year again offers cash prizes of US$10,000 and a fabulous safari to Botswana. My heart sings, and all of us at teamAG look forward to three months of eye candy followed by a tough month of judging. We will begin sharing weekly selections soon. Start your engines, ladies and gents – details here.

THANKS SO MUCH for the massive support for my rant last Friday about online retailer Takealot offering gin traps for sale to Joe Public. To cut a long story short, they have apologised and ‘delisted’ the gin trap. My decision to withdraw our accounts with them (personal and AG business) stands firm – their apology lacked sincerity, and the lack of a named human being in the process was telling. Your avalanche of social media and email pressure on Takealot worked well – you are my heroes 🙂

GREAT NEWS in our second story below – about forest elephants. Scroll down and tap to find out the details! Our first story below is often hotly debated by safari experts and passionistas. SO, what is your favourite time of the safari day? Those photos get my safari juices flowing.

BY THE WAY, a (reliable) source tells me that only 6 rhino horns have been recovered from the estimated 900 horns (450 rhinos) poached last year. That proportion – 0,7% – provides perspective on how ineffective the world’s governments and agencies are at policing illegal trafficking …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Scientific Editor

Giraffe are a source of endless fascination for anatomists, physiologists and those who work to unravel the inner workings of the mammalian body. Within their lanky frames, many adaptations work to counteract the physics challenges posed by a neck that reaches a lofty height of six metres. Blood pressure aside, a giraffe’s neck weighs roughly a third of its body mass, and the massive nuchal ligament that effortlessly holds the head upright is a marvel of evolution. And, as if the neck weren’t complex enough, our ‘did you know’ fact of the week below explains how giraffe are capable of extraordinary cervical contortions.

Of course, for our Photographer of the Year entrants, these fascinating facts are largely overshadowed by the sheer photogenic nature of these iconic animals. Will it be the giraffe’s turn to shine during this year’s competition? Only time will tell, but I can tell you that everyone at team AG is profoundly excited!

 

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/safari-time-our-favourite-time-of-day/
SAFARI TIME
Between meals, cocktails & pool dips, when should you head into the wild? We recommend our favourite safari time of day

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/more-forest-elephants-in-gabon-than-previously-thought-new-research/
GREAT NEWS
There are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed – first elephant population estimate in 30 years

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

• At last there are strong signs that we are all learning to live with Covid, and that the safari industry is slowly climbing out of the doldrums of the last two years. Many countries are now significantly reducing Covid requirements – making it easier to travel to Africa. Among many examples of the impact of fewer restrictions, United Airlines has reported massive increases in bookings for their direct flights from the US to South Africa.

• FastJet has announced direct flights between Victoria Falls and Maun –Botswana’s bushveld frontier town – in their 50-seater Embraer ERJ145 aircraft. This route was previously only available by private charter.

• Can you feel the sand between your toes and that cold G&T in your hand? Enjoy the beach and bush vibes in this relaxing video from Thonga Beach Lodge. Did you know that you can enjoy significant booking discounts for this and many other African camps & lodges in our travel & conservation club?

 


DID YOU KNOW: Neck ache? The joints between giraffe neck vertebrae are ball-and-socket joints – just like a human shoulder. The head is held upright by an extremely strong nuchal ligament.


WATCH: Return of the leopard. A story of hope: Zinave National Park in Mozambique welcomes its first leopards since the rewilding process began (7:33)

More forest elephants in Gabon than previously thought – new research

The good news is that there are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed. A new study from the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), Gabon’s National Park Agency (ANPN) and Vulcan offers the first countrywide elephant population estimate in nearly thirty years.

Forest elephants were only recently formally recognised as a separate species by the IUCN and were immediately classified as “Critically Endangered”. This new research estimates that there are around 95,000 in Gabon, which equates to roughly 60-70% of the total global population. Astonishingly, although forest elephant numbers have been in freefall for the last century, Gabon appears to have bucked the trend, and forest elephants are believed to be present across some 90% of this Central African country.

Unlike savanna elephants, counting forest elephants from the air is almost impossible given their preference for dense forest habitat. Thus, scientists have had to search for new and inventive ways to replace aerial surveys as a method for estimating population size. One such method (used in the present study) involves collecting and analysing DNA using a genetic spatial capture-recapture model. Over three years, researchers collected 4,058 dung samples from across the country and set about identifying individual genetic signatures. Then, using complex statistical models, they used the data collected to approximate the average forest elephant densities in various regions and, by extension, calculate a population estimate.

Forest elephants
Distribution map for forest elephants in Gabon

As might be expected, the highest densities were calculated in flat areas of preferred habitat with low levels of human pressure and interference (such as Loango National Park). Conversely, the lowest densities occurred in regions of low habitat suitability, such as those near major cities, along roads, and across the Bateke savanna.

The authors also caution that although the results of their study are primarily positive, this does not discount significant local declines that Gabon has experienced due to poaching surges in recent years. For example, in Minkébé National Park, a previous study estimated a loss of up to 81% of the forest elephants in just a single decade, from 2004 to 2014. These pockets of low elephant density have yet to recover.

Forest elephants were once widespread throughout the forests of Africa, with a population that would have numbered in the millions. Today, there are fewer than 200,000 (and likely significantly less). Most of these are found in Gabon, placing significant pressure on the country to ensure their safety and future. Protected areas constitute 22% of Gabon’s total area, meaning that the vast majority of the forest elephants exist outside these spaces. The authors estimate that some 65% of the country’s elephants occur in logging concessions. However, an accurate estimate of densities and populations is the vital first step in adaptive management strategy, which this study now provides.

As the authors conclude, “These results are of interest to local, national, and international decision-makers concerned with the conservation of this species and its habitat, with the important ecological role of forest elephants on climate regulation potential of forests, and with forest elephants as a useful indicator for healthy, intact and well-governed forests.”

Resources

Access the full paper here: “Nationwide abundance and distribution of African forest elephants across Gabon using non-invasive SNP genotyping”, Laguardia, A., et al. (2021), Global Ecology and Conservation

Forest elephants going hungry as climate change stops trees from fruiting – read more here

African, Asian & forest elephants – what’s the difference? – read more here

Forest elephants
© Forest Elephant Group

Comment – teamAG – Friday 28 January 2022

Comment - teamAG
The ground-hornbill and the unfortunate hare. © William Walldén – 2018 Photographer of the Year entrant. 2022 entries open on 1 February

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Gin trap, anyone?

WHAT TO DO when an online retailer you regularly utilise sells equipment to indiscriminately kill wild animals – and ignores requests to remove said product? Close your account. I did.

South Africa’s Takealot offers GIN TRAPS to Joe Public. Yes, those barbaric devices that maim and kill. Often the victim is in such agony that it chews off the trapped limb while bleeding out. Imagine stumbling upon this device while browsing the Takealot site for electronic devices, your favourite fudge and dog nail clippers.

After I was alerted to this product on Takealot, I spent more than a day trying to get beyond the vacuous call-centre minions (the head office number provided by them rings without reply) and wading through cut-and-paste evasive PR speak from their social media zombies. No luck. So I CLOSED our personal and Africa Geographic accounts. Note: Subsequent to the publishing of this Comment, Takealot delisted this product and offered an apology.

From a purely economic standpoint, they need to sell many gin traps to make up for the lost revenue from us. More importantly, what is quite clear to me is that brand Takealot has no MORAL compass.

Thanks to my network for the heads-up on social media. If enough of us go beyond frothing and posturing on social media, we can effect change. It’s up to us to make a difference – one brick at a time.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Scientific Editor

For our first story this week, dive into the green-hued magic of West Africa’s undiscovered paradise islands: São Tomé and Príncipe. Here forests filled with Galápagos-like evolutionary wonders tumble down mountains to meet the white sandy beaches below, and jungles reclaim abandoned plantations. The mixed bag of ecological marvels, delightfully decrepit towns, captivating history and epicurean indulgences create a sensory extravaganza that defines the São Tomé and Príncipe experience.

Next is the tale of a new and inventive way to bridge the human empathy gaps that exacerbate conflict and tear lives, tribes and countries apart. Read our second story below to learn more about how one company uses VR technology to immerse hostile tribal rivals in their antagonist’s worlds – hopefully bringing some semblance of peace along the way.

And finally, have you checked out our club forum recently? Have a look at this fascinating discussion posted by one of our club members on photographing local people and the dichotomy between the lives of those he has encountered on his travels.

 

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/sao-tome-principe-africas-undiscovered-paradise/
ISLAND GETAWAYS
São Tomé and Príncipe – two islands off the west coast of Africa – brim with ecological marvels, captivating history, and welcoming people

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/meet-the-soldier-a-vr-solution-for-peace/
VR AFRICA
‘Meet the Soldier’ – a virtual reality film project helping warring tribes in rural Africa find peace

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

• Hirola in the bag! Our maverick safari director Christian Boix is on safari in Kenya with club member Roger Whittle. Tsavo yielded an absolute gem of a sighting – the world’s most endangered antelope. Check out Christian’s photos and comments on this Facebook post.

• Our most spectacular photographer-guided safari is back! New 2023 dates and prices are available for this cracker of an adventure in the Maasai Mara.

• This charming video I AM FROM PRÍNCIPE will tug at your heartstrings and get you thinking about these West African islands for your detox getaway …

 


DID YOU KNOW: BABY HEDGEHOGS are called hoglets. Their quills are covered by a thin layer of fluid-filled skin to protect their mother during birth, but these spikes will generally emerge within a few hours


WATCH: A baby rhino’s story of courage and determination. “Coming Home: The Mpilo and Makhosi Story” – trailer (1:45)

São Tomé & Príncipe – Africa’s undiscovered paradise

São Tomé and Príncipe are amongst Africa’s best-kept tourism secrets – two bijou volcanic islands off the west coast of the continent, brimming with ecological marvels, stunning biodiversity, captivating history, and warm, welcoming inhabitants. Imagine an island paradise where azure waters lap at the shores of deserted beaches beneath waving palm fronds. A land where thick rainforests filled with Galápagos-like evolutionary wonders tumble their way down volcanic precipices to the rocky coastline below, and the jungle has reclaimed the once widespread colonial plantations. It is a place where time has, by all appearances, stood still.

São Tomé and Príncipe

The two jungle-choked islands are about 140km apart, over 200km off the coast of Gabon in the Atlantic Ocean in the Gulf of Guinea. Together, they are Africa’s second smallest country (both in terms of population and size) after Seychelles. Along with the neighbouring islands of Bioko and Annobón, São Tomé and Príncipe owe their existence to volcanic activity as shifting tectonics formed the Cameroon Line of volcanoes and forced part of the seabed upwards over 30 million years ago. The resultant topography is dramatic. This is no land of gentle, undulating hills – instead, sharp peaks dominate the skyline, and streams radiate down the mountains into the plunging valleys below.

The resultant rich volcanic soils, equatorial climate, and monsoon rainfall levels set the stage for a staggeringly diverse range of plant life. Verdant forests cover most of the islands, ranging from lowland forests around the coastlines to the mysterious cloud forests 1,400 metres and more above sea level. As the two islands have always been separate from the African continent, endemism is high with many plant and wildlife species found nowhere else on earth. Though the islands are small, naturalists exploring São Tomé and Príncipe receive a backstage pass to evolution’s theatre – hence the islands are sometimes referred to as Africa’s answer to the Galápagos (which may, in fact, be underestimating their biodiversity importance).

São Tomé and Príncipe were (by all accounts) uninhabited by people before the arrival of Portuguese explorers in the 15th century. As the islands were gradually colonised and settled, their convenient position created an important stop-over point. The islands, particularly larger São Tomé, rapidly evolved into a major commercial and trade centre for the Atlantic slave trade. At the same time, the bountiful soils and wet climate (and the availability of free, forced labour) made the islands ideal for agriculture – predominantly sugar cane. As competition from other global sugar markets grew, the islands’ farming activities gradually transitioned to coffee and cacao, eventually becoming the world’s largest cocoa producer at the turn of the 20th century. With independence in 1975, the plantations were nationalised. Many fell into a state of disrepair and were abandoned, leaving behind a snapshot of history frozen in time.  (Read on for more on these plantations – termed roças.)

Africa Geographic Travel
São Tomé & Príncipe
A view of the Atlantic Ocean on a sunny day on São Tomé

São Tomé

At 859km², around 50km long and 30km wide, São Tomé is the larger of the two islands and the more populous by far (though everything is, of course, relative). The delightfully decrepit capital of the eponymously named São Tomé city lies in the island’s north-eastern corner: colourful, vibrant, and bearing Portugal’s colonial thumbprint. Here visitors can visit the tiny, cream-coloured 16th-century fort of São Sebastiãn and accompanying museum or the Nossa Senhora da Graça (“Our Lady of Grace” – one of the oldest cathedrals in sub-Saharan Africa) to soak in the region’s history. Alternatively, a trip through the streets past lively vendors will offer the chance to enjoy some local cuisine (fish, perhaps, with some breadfruit and cooked banana – a staple dish). The markets present the opportunity to purchase crafts and meet the local São Toméans/ Santomeans (or even spot the president wandering by in flip flops).

São Tomé & Príncipe
Pico Cão Grande bathed in cloud

Away from the city, much of São Tomé is protected by the Obô National Park, which extends to include much of Príncipe as well. In the central part of the park lies one of São Tomé’s most famous landmarks: Pico Cão Grande or the “Great Canine/Great Dog Peak”. This bizarre topographical feature stands out for miles – a tooth-like volcanic plug that rises over 370 metres above the surrounding terrain. Pico Cão Grande is the most dramatic of the many volcanic plugs, necks and outcrops on both islands, composed of a rare type of extrusive volcanic rock known as phonolite. Due to the slippery moss-covered vertical cliff faces, unpredictable fogs and unexpected deluges, few have successfully navigated the climb to the top of Pico Cão Grande.

This section of Obô National Park is also home to Pico de São Tomé, the country’s highest peak at 2,024 metres above sea level. The upper slopes are covered in primary forest, the trees swathed in decorative layers of lichen and sporting a multitude of different orchids and other epiphytic species. Unlike Pico Cão Grande, summiting Pico de São Tomé can be attempted by hikers, though a sturdy pair of boots is essential.

São Tomé & Príncipe
Príncipe Agulhas

Príncipe

Around 140 km north-east of São Tomé (a 30-minute flight away) lies the remote wonderland of Príncipe. The tiny island covers an area of 136km², including the surrounding forest-clad islets. The population numbers just under 7,000 people, most of whom reside in Santo António (the only town). In today’s world, Príncipe is the closest thing to an untouched paradise any traveller could ever hope to explore.

The entire island has been designated the UNESCO Island of Príncipe Biosphere Reserve, and the lush forests are crisscrossed by weaving trails leading to picturesque waterfalls. These verdant surroundings (together with São Tomé) are home to more endemic species per square kilometre than anywhere else on earth. Along the edges of the island and islets are the kind of beaches that are almost too perfect to be true – deserted, fringed by palms providing ample shade and warm azure waves lapping at the sand. Many of the lodges in the area sport a private beach, complete with snorkelling and canoe activities (and the odd beach bar).

The “Lost World” atmosphere of Príncipe is only accentuated by the “abandoned” plantations. Historically, these roças (also found on São Tomé) were self-contained, self-sufficient worlds ruled over by colonial households. The more extensive estates would have employed over a thousand people who lived within the roça “villages” with their own churches and hospitals. Today, most colonial mansions have been closed off or converted to luxury accommodation. However, local people still live in many of the roça villages, leading an almost entirely subsistence-based lifestyle. As the vegetation slowly reclaims the crumbling infrastructure, the result is a poignant insight into time gone past.

Astonishingly, Príncipe once found itself at the cutting edge of physics research when Arthur Eddington set out for a perfect position to observe the effects of gravity on light during a solar eclipse. This he found at Roça Sundy when he observed that the light from stars was bent by the sun’s gravity, confirming a significant aspect of Albert Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity.

São Tomé & Príncipe
Traditional Santomean sea canoes

Evolutionary islands

Since Darwin’s initial forays into the natural wonders of the Galapagos Islands, biologists have seen islands as evolutionary goldmines. The idea is that the smallest and most isolated islands will demonstrate the most dramatic examples of adaptation. São Tomé and Príncipe, having never been part of the mainland, are the perfect example of this principle in action – the endemism levels of these tiny islands are simply astonishing. To this day, new species of both fauna and flora are regularly discovered, many endemic to either one or the other island. The mammal contingent is almost entirely represented by bats and one terrestrial mammal: the São Tomé shrew.

The beaches are popular nest sites for four different species of endangered turtles. Female olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback turtles begin to arrive in November to nest, and the hatchlings launch their perilous journey back to the ocean in March.

Of particular interest to biologists are the seven amphibian species. Amphibians are intolerant of saltwater, so how the six frog species and the worm-like “cobra boba” (Schistometopum thomense) found their way there is a matter for considerable debate…

São Tomé & Príncipe
Clockwise from top left: white-tailed tropicbird; Principe kingfisher; São Tomé oriole; São Tomé speirops; São Tomé prinia; Príncipe golden weaver

Birds of a different feather

Like Darwin’s finches, the birds of São Tomé and Príncipe are intriguing. It is almost impossible to give a precise number of endemics on offer, simply because different sources recognise diverse species/sub-species distinctions, and research continues. Whatever the total, it is clear that the birding on offer in São Tomé and Príncipe is extraordinary, and enthusiasts are guaranteed to tick off several species found nowhere else. Only in São Tomé and Príncipe can birders experience the thrill of standing in the gloom of the forest and looking up to see the incongruous shape of a tropicbird against the leafy backdrop of the canopy.

One aspect that makes the birdlife even more fascinating is the high levels of dwarfism and gigantism. This is a pattern seen in islands worldwide, where species of small families evolve to be bigger (likely in the absence of competition) and big species get smaller (perhaps due to lack of available space). Thus, the São Tomé and Príncipe birds include the giant weaver and giant sunbird (the world’s largest members of the two families). The mysterious São Tomé Grosbeak is the largest member of the canary family and was only rediscovered in 1991 after a century’s absence. On the opposite side of the spectrum is the critically endangered dwarf olive ibis. On the isolated island, the São Tomé oriole has lost much of its yellow pigmentation, providing vital clues about the role of colour and competition in birds.

A typical checklist of some of the birding specials on display would include the Dohrn’s thrush-babbler, São Tomé short-tail, several species of white-eyes, the São Tomé prinia, São Tomé fiscal shrike, maroon pigeon, Príncipe thrush, São Tomé lemon dove, São Tomé olive pigeon, Príncipe kingfisher, Príncipe glossy starling, Príncipe sunbird, velvet-mantled drongo and adorable São Tomé scops owl. Timneh parrots soar past in small but noisy flocks, and some of the marine birds include white-tailed tropicbirds, sooty terns and brown and black noddies.

Africa Geographic Travel
São Tomé & Príncipe
Clockwise from top left: heading out into the ocean on a traditional canoe; yoga on the beach at Sundy Praia; waiting for a boat; flying between the islands

Explore and stay

Want to go on safari to São Tomé and Príncipe? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

A popular phrase amongst the locals of São Tomé and Príncipe is “leve leve” – the Santomean equivalent of “easy does it”. It perfectly encompasses the laidback atmosphere of this down-to-earth country where life moves at a simpler, more human pace. Yet for all that, the two islands offer the perfect escape from worldly stresses, the plethora of activities on offer do not allow for a dull moment. From exploring underwater caves and snorkelling past bright fishes to hiking along forgotten paths in thick forests in search of feathered treasures, the purity of São Tomé and Príncipe’s natural world cannot fail to delight.

The two rainy seasons run from September to November and March until June, but the country receives high levels of rain all year round. The weather has to be taken with the same “leve leve” approach as the rest of the island. Though the risk is slight in the more remote parts of the islands, it is important to take malaria precautions. There are budget “pensão” accommodation options in the larger cities and villages, but it is at the more upmarket lodges that the true magic of the islands can be fully embraced.

Clockwise from top left: Coins from the Portuguese colonial era; craft sales on São Tomé; street scene in São Tomé

For those looking to indulge their inner Epicurean, the culinary delights are never-ending. Visitors can sample what is arguably the best chocolate in the world – dark, rich and pure and made onsite at the cacao plantations. At the world-famous Claudio Corallo Cacao and Coffee, chocolate-lovers can spoil their tastebuds with any combination of 80% dark chocolate and candied ginger/orange, salt or locally-sourced pepper.

With islands as isolated as they are, the ingredients for more substantial meals are almost all sourced from the land and combined in unusual and delectable ways. The fire and passion of Portuguese cooking are given their own local twist, creating a food experience that is both authentic and deeply flavoursome.

This mixed bag of cultural influences, fascinating and friendly local inhabitants, and the evocative history completes the sensory extravaganza that epitomises the São Tomé and Príncipe experience.


WATCH: I AM FROM PRÍNCIPE (3:41)


Resources

Fundação Príncipe is committed to the sustainable development of tourism on the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. Learn about them in our private travel and conservation club – and please consider a DONATION to support their work (donating via our club is safe).

‘Meet the Soldier’ – a VR solution for peace?

Meet the soldier
Akiro of the Matheniko people

This is the inspirational story of how a virtual reality platform is being used to create peace amongst warring tribes in Uganda.

In the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda, residents have had to deal with violence for decades. Water and food shortages create tension between the different tribes and violence can flare up at any moment. Many lives, particularly those of warriors, have been lost by feuding tribes. For many of the antagonists, reconciliation seems impossible – so much suffering has been inflicted on all sides that the culture of revenge and animosity is almost impossible to change. 

Two of the warring tribes include the Matheniko and the Tapac peoples, both subgroups of the famous Karamajong cattle pastoralists. Ariko is the leader of the Matheniko, Lomoromoe is from the Tapac. Both of the groups are semi-nomadic pastoralists in an arid area where growing crops is hard to impossible. Livestock, particularly cattle, are of paramount cultural and utilitarian importance to all the Karamajong. 

Over the years, traditions of cattle rustling have developed with resultant feuds the origins of which no one can remember. Raids, counterraids and revenge killings are part of the local culture. Yet both the Metheniko and Tapac have very similar lifestyles and priorities. They live basic existences in homes created from branches and clay, they are dependent on cattle and they must survive in the same arid environment. 

Bloodshed and cattle raiding has reduced in recent years but tensions and resentment still remain and threaten to spill over in violence at any moment. 

Meet the soldier
Akiro and Lomoromoe helping with the making of the film ‘Meet the Soldier’

A meeting

What if Ariko and Lomoromoe could meet in a neutral, non-threatening space to learn about each other and forget the conflict for a moment? What if they could immerse themselves in each other’s lives? This is what Hack the Planet has facilitated using the latest techniques in the field of 360 / 3D video recordings. 

Through the Meet the Soldier project, Akiro and Lomoromoe met each other in a 3D virtual space. They travelled virtually to each other’s villages and learned about the lives – challenges, hardships and cultures of their once mortal enemies. 

Virtual Reality (VR) can be an effective tool in helping people relate to and develop empathy for others or unfamiliar situations. Many people view VR as something to do with the entertainment industry, few understand the power it has to change perspectives through experience. VR is experienced by the brain differently than other forms of media. Someone in a virtual environment is more capable of generating empathy for a person or situation because the brain is “fooled” into thinking it’s really experiencing the situation.

One year after the production of Meet the Soldier, a researcher from Sciences PO, a French research institute, wrote a paper investigating the project. The researcher spoke with many people involved, but one response from a local priest who knows both warriors very well was particularly illuminating.

“The two warriors are good friends now. The film has bonded them together. Every time I meet one, he inquires about the other. This is a good sign of friendship. These two warriors who had once been terrible enemies and raiders, who took pleasure in raiding and killing others; now they have abandoned the past and have become “new people”.

Hack the Planet hopes that this concept could be applicable to many other situations and conflicts in the world. What would happen if we could use the approach to bring together leaders of the world or people who live in countries at war? People who don’t have the opportunity to visit wilderness areas could be immersed in the natural world.  

Watch the 20-minuteYouTube documentary

Meet the soldier
Lomoromoe of the Tapac people

About the author and creator of Meet the Soldier

Tim van Deursen developed the concept of ‘Meet the Soldier’ at ‘Hack the Planet’; a technical non-profit he founded in 2016. The company works on innovative solutions to combat global and social challenges. Hack the Planet is part of Q42 and has a complete arsenal of engineers at their disposal. Production and creation of the video were done by Wolfstreet and Teddy Cherim. Tim believes that VR is a powerful tool that could be used to bridge long-lasting conflicts; it provides a safe environment while at the same time the possibility to change perspectives. Follow Hack the planet on Twitter

Comment – teamAG – Friday 21 January 2022

AG director and safari expert Christian Boix checking out new exciting experiences for our clients. Mutinondo Wilderness, Zambia
AG director and safari expert Christian Boix checking out new exciting experiences for our clients. Mutinondo Wilderness, Zambia. © Simon Espley

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My country’s politicians regularly trumpet the success of their anti-poaching efforts – because fewer rhinos are being poached every year. You and I know that these announcements attempt to conceal the stark truth – that the Kruger National Park rhino population is in FREEFALL. Kruger hosts the world’s largest wild rhino population. Each year we have to dig deep to discover how many rhinos are left in Kruger. This year was no different. The results are shocking. Our first story below refers.

Our second story touches on a vital issue if future generations are to see FREE-ROAMING wild animals in Africa. And our third story is another in our series on that wonderful Noah’s Ark of ENDEMIC species – Madagascar.

Finally, with a few weeks to go before we open the doors to entries for our Photographer of the Year, dust off those cameras and search through your archived images. The CASH and SAFARI prizes are again worth the effort.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Scientific Editor

While I was in the Kruger National Park a few weeks ago, I was granted a brief glimpse into the inner workings of the giant machine that is South Africa’s largest national park. Sufficeth to say, the people I encountered who keep this machine oiled and running were knowledgeable, candid and tremendously passionate. Their love – yes love – for the Kruger and its wildlife was palpable.

So now it’s that time of year when we delve into Kruger’s rhino population stats. And it is not looking good.

Putting together these updates is always a somewhat heart-wrenching experience for the AG team, even if the numbers come as no real surprise. So I can only imagine what it must be like for those responsible for counting, monitoring, and protecting Kruger’s rhinos to have to watch this catastrophe unfolding in real-time.

For decades, the Kruger has been a stronghold for rhinos, supporting one of the largest populations in the world. Yet it was the very nature of Kruger’s previous rhino conservation success that made it the prime target for surging rhino poaching. Should we be asking what more could be done to protect our rhinos? Of course. But we should also remember to celebrate the efforts of those working all hours and risking life and limb to keep them safe. As SANParks officials recently wrote: “The lesson is not about who keeps rhinos safest. It is about what is the safest way to keep rhinos.”

 

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/kruger-rhino-poaching-update-75-population-reduction-in-10-years/
RHINO COUNTDOWN
Latest: Rhino poaching has decimated Kruger NP populations by 75% in 10 years

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/wildlife-corridors-paths-of-connection-and-hope/
HUMANS vs ANIMALS
Humans should avoid corridors used by lions, elephants & other large creatures – to reduce loss of lives & livelihoods

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/eastern-madagascar-forest-beach-endemic-life/
MADLAND
A journey through eastern Madagascar is an adventure with endemic lemurs, birds, reptiles, pristine beaches and ancient forest

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

• This classy video from Jamala Madikwe in South Africa’s North West province will have you packing your safari bags. First, though, visit our club for the best prices for this and other lodges and camps

• Did you know that you can now search for flights on Google based on lower carbon emissions?

• Stay updated with the latest Covid rules and travel logistics per country here

 


DID YOU KNOW: Dolphins have a functional clitoris similar to humans


WATCH: Gorilla baby greets a tourist; silverback and mom keep watch. An epic 2012 video that never fails to bring out a smile (3:23)

Kruger rhino poaching update: 75% population reduction in 10 years

rhino poaching
Rhino populations in Kruger continue to plummet due to rhino poaching

Despite back-breaking work from a dedicated and passionate SANParks team, Kruger National Park rhino populations have continued to plummet due to rhino poaching – as per the latest population count from 2020. Recently published research estimates that there are about 2,607 white rhinos remaining in the Kruger National Park, while black rhinos are estimated to number just 202. This represents a population decline of 75% for white rhinos since 2011 (from 10,621) and 51% for black rhino since 2013 (from 415).

The research, compiled by SANParks officials, analyses the impact of COVID-19 on poaching rates compared to trends observed in previous years. In summary:

  • Population estimates in a massive area such as Kruger carry inherent uncertainty. Thus, white rhinos could number between 2,475 and 2,752, while black rhino populations could be as low as 172 or as high as 237. The estimates for this and previous years’ population numbers are the midpoint between the low and high numbers.
  • The actual black rhino population size may be higher due to their preference for dense habitat and tendency for surveys to underestimate their numbers.
  • These population estimates apply to the year 2020 – the process of actively counting the rhino (by air), analysing the data, and subjecting the results to scientific scrutiny takes time, and there is an inevitable lag period.
  • During the height of the COVID-19 government-imposed “hard” lockdown, there was a significant reduction in poaching: 79.4%
  • However, these benefits were lost as restrictions were lifted. “The easing of restriction resulted in a significantly higher number of observed poaching incidences per day during 2020 compared to that predicted for the same period by trends from 2017 to 2019. The result indicates that year-to-year poaching rates during 2020 were not significantly lower than those in previous years…” (Ferreira et al., 2021). This contradicts previous statements by the Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries, claiming that poaching incidents in Kruger reduced by half in the first half of 2020.
  • The recruitment rates (the number of calves born that survive the year) for both species were at their lowest since 2013.

PUBLICLY AVAILABLE RESOURCES

  1. While the SANParks Annual Report for 2020/2021 is not yet accessible to the public, the most recent available figures were published in the African Journal of Wildlife Research and are publicly available through a paywall here.
  1. Our report of this time last year: Kruger rhino populations plummet – latest official stats
  2. The 2019 stats are available on page 96 of the 2019/2020 SANParks Annual Report: download.
  3. The 2018 stats are available on page 101 of the 2018/2019 SANParks Annual Report: download.
  1. Prior year stats are available here: white rhinos and black rhinos.

Wildlife corridors – paths of connection and hope

This article was originally published on the Conservation Namibia website. Written by Ingelore Katjingisiua and Ginger Mauney


From the air, Namibia is a maze of paths – some start as wide animal highways and merge into a single track before trailing off into dust, while others are long and deep, etching a path that crosses rivers, borders and memory. The generational knowledge of where they lead and why they exist is known by a myriad of species from elephants to ants, and also the people who live alongside these wildlife corridors.

Animals use corridors for a variety of reasons: elephants traverse shorter paths between grazing lands and water, while using longer paths between their wet and dry season home ranges. Large carnivores also prefer to use well-worn paths while patrolling their territories. Knowing where wildlife corridors are in the landscape and what animal species use them is thus critical for planning human use for the land. Crops planted or livestock corralled too close to these paths are in danger of being destroyed, so it makes sense to identify key corridors and plan accordingly.

Taking wildlife corridors into account is especially important in Namibia’s Zambezi Region, which lies at the heart of the five-country Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). It is home to people and wildlife that all use the same landscape. The Namibian Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) therefore recognises the importance of maintaining wildlife corridors as a means of reducing human-wildlife conflict and keeping wildlife populations healthy.

Communal conservancies in the Zambezi Region are ideally suited for identifying and maintaining wildlife corridors. Conservancies are local institutions that utilise the wildlife within their respective boundaries to create jobs, improve food security and support rural enterprises; they are also tasked with monitoring wildlife populations and addressing human-wildlife conflict in partnership with MEFT. Conservancies therefore feature strongly in a report on the strategic wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region that was submitted to MEFT in March 2020.

Although maintaining wildlife corridors is highly valuable for the whole KAZA landscape and the larger wildlife economy, it comes at a cost for farmers who live in these areas and might want to use the land for farming purposes. Conservancies and other stakeholders must therefore identify key wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region and come up with recommendations for incentivising the farmers who live along these corridors to leave them intact. One way of achieving that is through a Payment for Ecosystem Services (PES) scheme that links the status of wildlife corridors directly to the income of conservancies, which in turn is used for the benefit of communities living in these areas. From the communities’ point of view, this system means that a well-protected wildlife corridor equals improved living conditions.

Wildlife corridors
Members of the Sobbe Conservancy who are at the forefront of wildlife corridor protection in the Zambezi Region

Namibia’s homegrown PES is called Wildlife Credits – an innovative conservation initiative that rewards conservancies for proactive, verifiable conservation results. Wildlife Credits payments go directly to the stewards on the ground for conservation results already achieved: e.g. corridors protected or rare animal species sighted. Traditional funding is used to cover expenses such as boots on the ground, vehicles and training, all of which are important components of conservation, but they do not always achieve conservation results. Paying for results through Wildlife Credits thus complements traditional funding and recognises conservancies for their contribution to conservation.

Using Wildlife Credits to help protect wildlife and its habitat isn’t hypothetical: there is ample proof that it works, from the proactive protection of lions in the Wuparo Conservancy to rhino sightings in the Huab. In 2018, Wildlife Credits was applied to the protection of a wildlife corridor for the first time, focusing on a key elephant corridor in the Zambezi Region. Distell Namibia and Amarula, the liquor that is synonymous with the African elephant, formed a partnership with Wildlife Credits and the Sobbe Conservancy. Distell invested N$ 130,000 into the national Wildlife Credits fund to pay the Sobbe Conservancy for successfully protecting the critical corridor that runs through its land.

This payment was based on independently verified data showing the continued protection of the corridor and evidence that wild animals continue to move through this area. The former was confirmed through satellite images captured over a ten-month period, while the latter was shown by photos from camera traps placed along the corridor. Together, this evidence reveals that the communities living in the Sobbe Conservancy avoid planting their crops or building any structures along the corridor, which allows wildlife to move freely.

The conservancy put the payments received through Wildlife Credits (which added to the funds from Distell) to good use by connecting villages in this remote part of Namibia to the electricity grid during 2019. Six villages received transformers and electric poles, five of which now have electricity (the infrastructure for the sixth is being installed at the time of writing). This project benefits 1,012 members of the conservancy and contributes to Goal 7 of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): affordable and modern energy for all.

Wildlife corridors
Using new technology to monitor and protect an ancient wildlife corridor

Monitoring the wildlife corridor is an ongoing effort. In 2020, the conservancy introduced the SMART mobile application to capture data that complements the camera traps deployed in the corridor. Additionally, the Sobbe Conservancy increased foot patrols of the corridor from twice a month to once a week. The corridor functions as a transit highway for elephants moving between Angola, Zambia, Namibia and Botswana. They are part of the estimated 220,000 elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), the largest elephant population left on the planet.

The corridor monitoring efforts have further revealed how many other species use this highway: African wild dogs, civets, bush pigs, roan antelope, side-striped jackals, zebras, giraffes and porcupines, among others. Images from the camera traps even had a surprise in store for Lise Hanssen, director of the Kwando Carnivore Project, who has worked with communities in the Zambezi Region since 2007 and is assisting the Sobbe Conservancy with this project: Although we expected [and found] five of Africa’s large carnivores using this important area [lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, spotted hyaena], we were amazed to find an image of a brown hyaena, which is now the northern-most confirmed record of this species.

It is only through long-term collaborative work with communities and long-term support from businesses like Distell Namibia and Amarula that these exciting discoveries are possible. They are more than just facts – they add significantly to the conservation imperative for KAZA as a whole and highlight the importance of this critical wildlife corridor for long-term conservation efforts. Further, these encouraging results boost the communities’ pride in their conservation achievements. This year (2021), Distell Namibia and Amarula have pledged to build on this success by renewing their partnership with the Sobbe Conservancy and Wildlife Credits and expanding their support to include two more vital wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region.

Wildlife corridors
Camera trap images reveal the surprising variety of rare and endangered species using the wildlife corridor in the Sobbe Conservancy

Comment – teamAG – Friday 14 January 2022

Thrills and spills on the Nile River in Uganda
Thrills and spills on the Nile River in Uganda. Join our club for the best prices here and elsewhere. © Lemala Wildwaters Lodge

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It’s THAT time again! Well, almost …

On the 1st of February, we open for entries to our annual Photographer of the Year and again hope for envy-inducing images of Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity bounty. During the height of the dry season last year I spent an unforgettable week on safari with the 2021 winners and their partners in Botswana’s Khwai Private Reserve – predator central. Our first story below is a PHOTOGRAPHIC CELEBRATION of that sojourn.

Jamie has penned an excellent intro to our second story below. I will only add that this is arguably the BIGGEST ISSUE standing between viable free-roaming wildlife populations and intact ecosystems on the one hand and their annihilation on the other. Do we really want Africa to follow the example set by the rich nations, and turn our landscapes into parking lots and our wildlife into managed herds?

Start your engines, ladies and gents – get those epic photos ready because February is just around the corner. Fantastic cash and travel prizes await 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Scientific Editor

Do you ever find yourself reaching for a word in English (or any other language) to describe an everyday situation or emotion, only to find that there isn’t one? Sometimes, like with “Schadenfreude”, one language steps in where another fails. But other times, a little inventiveness is needed. Douglas Adams and John Lloyd created The Meaning of Liff – a “dictionary of things that there aren’t words for yet”. More recently, John Koenig began concocting the sombre Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows.

One of Koenig’s made-up words – occhiolism – jumped out at me: “n. the awareness of the smallness of your perspective, by which you couldn’t possibly draw any meaningful conclusions at all, about the world or the past or the complexities of culture”.

In my opinion, there is an unfortunate lack of occhiolism in the world on so many levels. However, in the context of this message, I am thinking of our second story in particular. Attempting to address human-wildlife conflict without involving local communities at every level is not only profoundly disrespectful, but it will also prove utterly fruitless. Read the story below on why it is so vital to take steps to understand the perspectives of those who live alongside wildlife rather than imparting our own assumptions.

 

Story 1
WINNERS’ SAFARI
https://africageographic.com/stories/khwai-photographers-paradise/
Khwai is every wildlife photographer’s dream – just ask our 2021 Photographer of the Year winners. Entries for 2022 open on 1 February

Story 2
CONFLICT
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-emotions-of-human-wildlife-conflict/
Emotions and cultural significance attached to wild carnivores dominate attempts to mitigate human-wildlife conflict

 


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

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Safari njema !

 


DID YOU KNOW: Honeybee queens can live for up to three years, and worker bees live for just 200 days in winter and less than 40 days in summer


WATCH: FASCINATING behind-the-scenes look at filming nature timelapse (8:43)

Khwai – photographer’s paradise

Tongues lolling and bulbous tummies protruding shamelessly, the painted wolves took advantage of dappled shade in a mopane glade to grab a few moments of shut-eye in the heat of a September afternoon in Khwai, Botswana. We too bunkered down, enjoying this moment of relative coolness in a parched landscape heading into the legendary ‘suicide month’ of oppressive heat before the first rains transform the landscape. September is prime game-viewing time – don’t tell a soul.

This young male cheetah was besotted with elephant dung

This is painted wolf (wild dog) country, and we encountered this group of ten on several occasions as we meandered along the bush tracks and floodplains for six blissful days. We also enjoyed regular encounters with mating lions (which strolled through camp one morning), a mother cheetah and her adolescent cub and, of course, elephants. So many elephants. During one particularly memorable game drive, we spent hours with the ‘dogs’ (again with fat tummies and bloody faces) while the mother cheetah and her cub played about 300 meters away in full view. The cub had a thing for elephant dung, hunting down and attacking them with intent.  We also found two skittish young cheetahs who were new to the area –  perhaps passing through in search of their own territory.

Khwai is predator-central; every game drive delivered several encounters

This was our 2021 Photographer of the Year winning group

– with a few personnel adjustments due to Covid-related travel complications

We spent six days in the vast Khwai Private Reserve, sandwiched between Chobe National Park and Moremi Game Reserve, sharing a name with the neighbouring legendary Khwai Community Concession. Of course, we enjoyed many extraordinary moments in Khwai, as Africa did her thing – enthralling us with her bounty and guile. We also enjoyed fireside chats that will stay with me for a long time to come. Safari adventures tend to shed barriers and foster cultural exchanges that open our horizons and make us better people. This was an exceptionally rewarding safari for us all, and long-term friendships were forged.

Khwai
Top left: Our guide ‘KG’ Bapute at Tuludi was very patient with his camera-toting guests. Top right: Sy Nawa, our guide at Sable Alley, poses next to a large lion who was chilling out in the lodge parking area. Bottom: Our party posing in the glow of the setting sun
Africa Geographic Travel

Two encounters stood out for me and are deserving of special mention

We spent most of one day in a sunken photographic hide at a pumped waterhole near the Chobe boundary (unfenced, of course) and ogled as huge elephant bulls arrived in droves to quench their thirst and socialize with old acquaintances. Many fights broke out as thirsty elephants jostled for position – some more determined individuals driving opponents back many skiddy meters – to the tune of squeals, trumpets and clashing ivory. Sometimes all of the elephants would vacate the water in haste and stand some distance away as if ordered to do so. Then, sure enough, within seconds, a particularly large and dominant bull would swagger in and calmly have his fill of the precious water. The experience is pretty surreal, as these giants loom above us, providing views of bellies and the underside of those huge wrinkled feet as they pad by within touching distance. The impressive collection of big camera lenses lay untouched in the corner, entirely superfluous. We emerged from our underground hide in awe of these incredible giants and acutely aware that elephants have very complex social lives and can communicate over vast distances.

Khwai
Our enthralling afternoon in a sunken hide near the Khwai / Chobe border

We were tracking a leopard during one game drive when we stumbled on a magnificent sight – probably my Moment of this safari. The Khwai River has many smaller channels and lagoons that were drying up at this time of year, leaving stranded fish and crustaceans. And working that bounty were thousands of birds – pelicans, herons, storks, ducks and fish eagles  –  taking turns to shepherd the fish to shallow areas for harvest. The energy of the moment was off-the-charts, and we spent a few hours entranced as this rolling mass of winged predators worked the shoals. (video) In the background, a fish eagle had burgled a massive catfish from a rather indignant marabou stork and was trying unsuccessfully to take off with his pilfered catch. Our return to camp found us again deep in thought about how nature works. And then, just as we thought the day could not get better, we were treated to a scrumptious lunch on a wooden platform overlooking the floodplains – in the cool shade of massive sausage trees.

A portion of the flock working shoals of stranded fish

 

Khwai
Surprise bushveld lunch on an elevated deck in the shade of a sausage tree overlooking a floodplain

Our lodgings were superb

I had stayed at Sable Alley on a previous safari and knew to expect bushveld luxury, excellent service and delicious food. I was not disappointed. However, it was Tuludi that blew me away. This recently-built lodge has taken bushveld luxury to new levels, with enormous bedrooms and so many private spaces in the common area it feels as if the entire lodge is yours. My favourite area is a treehouse library above the lodge common area and overlooking the floodplains – a wonderful private space to put one’s feet up and enjoy a quiet alcoholic beverage. Or two. I will be back. Two of our group were so taken by Tuludi that they have booked their family for an extended stay in 2022, and of course, they will enjoy our club member preferential rates.

Want to go on safari to Khwai? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

 

Africa Geographic Travel

The emotions of human-wildlife conflict

human-wildlife conflict

Human-wildlife conflict is present to some degree across most of rural Africa. It is one of the gravest threats facing wildlife conservation. For local human inhabitants, human-wildlife conflict endangers lives and livelihoods. Naturally, much research is devoted to mitigating its effects. Part of this includes expanding our knowledge base to understand how local people actually feel about wild animals without projecting emotions and thoughts onto the people who bear the brunt of the conflict.

New research (led by scientists from the Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research) from Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area adds to this body of data, suggesting that emotions and cultural significance attached to wild carnivores strongly influence the acceptance of specific management strategies. Importantly, these factors exert a more decisive influence than the extent of livestock predation – at least within Maasai pastoralist communities.

Though mainstream media has been decidedly slow to recognise the importance of the local communities that live within and around wildlife spaces, these communities play a vital role in conservation. The future survival of most wildlife will depend on whether it can persist in shared landscapes with rural farmers and pastoralists. This, in turn, means that human-wildlife conflict is inevitable, and the methods employed to alleviate it must be based not just on the animals but on the needs of these communities as well. This cannot be judged effectively without a proper appreciation of the individual challenges facing the locals of a particular area.

Naturally, previous research has indicated that more severe livestock predation will result in an increased desire for (and support of) more forceful management strategies such as relocation or even killing the predators involved. However, studies have also shown that large carnivores, in particular, are of significant cultural importance. The positive emotions attached to these charismatic animals impact how the communities accept the cost of living with them. Logically, negative sentiments towards wild predators should favour strategies to remove the animal, while positive emotions should favour more conservation-orientated management strategies.

This new research is the first of its kind to directly compare livestock predation levels with the cultural importance of the wild carnivores to determine which factor is more influential and should, therefore, be prioritised by policymakers.

To better understand the perceptions of large carnivores in Ngorongoro, the researchers conducted a hundred questionnaires with Maasai pastoralists. They focussed on the three large carnivore species most likely to cause livestock losses – lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas – and presented three different management strategies: no action, relocation, and lethal control of the predators.  The questionnaire also included questions about how many cattle, sheep, goats, and donkeys had been killed by wild carnivores.

Africa Geographic Travel

The researchers found that 87% and 76% of the respondents felt joy towards lions and leopards, respectively. Unsurprisingly, the percentage was much lower for those who felt joy towards spotted hyenas (47%), and 72% of the respondents also found hyenas to be disgusting. However, the respondents were also significantly less afraid of hyenas (13%) than of lions (49%) and leopards (44%). Hyenas and leopards were seen as culturally unimportant overall, and while lions scored higher than both, only 41% of the respondents attached cultural significance to them. Hyenas accounted for the most livestock depredation in the area.

The majority of the Maasai pastoralists accepted “no action” as a management strategy for all three carnivores. Relocation and lethal control were mostly rejected (though 31% supported the relocation of hyenas, as opposed to 11% and 14% for lions and leopards). The results suggest that emotions (particularly joy) and cultural importance are “stronger predictors of the acceptance of management strategies than livestock depredation”.  Interestingly, fear seemed to have no significant effect on the acceptance of the indicated management strategy.

So how does this help to direct management strategies in the future? This is a complex question, but one of the authors’ recommendations is to focus on positive emotions in education initiatives and outreach programmes, especially where hyenas are concerned. However, the scientists emphasise that whatever the efforts, they should only be done with “collaborative, enthusiastic involvement from the community side”.

Another interesting point raised in the final discussion of the study was the unexpectedly low cultural importance of lions. This may be due to intergenerational change and sedentarism, which has reduced spiritual or emotional contact with wildlife through the loss of traditional values and practices. The authors use the example of the traditional killing of lions in the symbolic coming-of-age ceremony, which has become a rarity in Maasai societies. While undoubtedly preferable for the lions, this may have reduced the importance of lions over time.

There is no question that livestock depredation remains an important aspect of human-predator conflict. Still, this study shows that it is not the only factor influencing how communities respond to conflict management strategies. Naturally, the results of this research are specific to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, but they do affirm just how influential positive emotions can be in human-wildlife conflict and emphasise the importance of understanding their effects.

As the first author, Arjun Dheer, explains in a blog post for the Hyena Project, “multi-pronged approaches that combine physiological and cultural factors with the close involvement of local communities can help pave the way for continued human-carnivore coexistence. Maybe scientists have been barking up the wrong tree with so much focus on livestock depredation!”

RESOURCES

The full paper can be accessed here: “Emotions and Cultural Importance Predict the Acceptance of Large Carnivore Management Strategies by Maasai Pastoralists”, Dheer, A., et al. (2021), Frontiers in Conservation Science

For further reading on strategies to avoid livestock being consumed by predators have a look at this interesting study.

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