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Safari photography in Ethiopia, Zambia & Botswana

I’d like to share some safari photography from my recent trip to Africa. It was an amazing experience.

I had no phone or internet connection for most of the trip! Sometimes I’d put down my camera and just immerse myself in their lives. That allowed me to learn more about the people and their traditions. Living with them definitely helped quite a bit in capturing some of these photographs. Sharing meals and laughs, learning how to sing, and teaching them my awful dance techniques were some of the highlights of this trip. Not to mention pancakes made from a root of a banana-like tree that was fermented in the ground for 7 months!! Yummy!!

I made notes under many photographs so that you can understand a bit more about each photo and what it represents. Please note that there’s some nudity. For many of us, it’s a bit of a taboo, but it is normal for a number of tribes in the areas where I’ve photographed.

The conditions some of these tribes live in are pretty harsh, and I often wondered how they survive. They’re adapted very well, and yet the mortality rate is extremely high. Even 2 of my DSLR cameras did not survive the trip…

Enjoy!!

Safari photography
Portrait of a Mursi woman. Mursi are one of the most unique tribes in the world. They are mostly known for wearing lip plates. Among the other tribes, they are known as the most fierce warriors. I enjoyed dancing, singing and trying to communicate with them. We are unique to them, just like they are unique to us.
At around puberty, females cut their lower lip and install a clay plate in the opening. As time goes by, they stretch the hole and put a bigger disk in it. Those plates can easily reach 7 inches in diameter! Lower teeth are often removed to make the lip plate sit comfortably in the opening.
Safari photography
There are a lot of kids everywhere. They tend to know 1-3 English words

 

 

Kids help their parents by looking after their younger siblings. I saw many 4-6-year-old kids carrying their brother/sister on their backs.
Safari photography
Guns are owned by most, if not all, men in all the tribes. Kalashnikov AK-47 is a weapon of choice. Most tribesmen own guns, with the Kalashnikov AK-47 being the weapon of choice. In fact, owning a gun is a prerequisite for getting married, as is ownership of at least 30 cows (which are given to the parents of the bride).
Safari photography
The Suri’s grazing lands are under intense competition from neighbouring tribes, and as a result, they have to protect themselves and their cattle.

 

These girls are from the Hamer tribe. Note the hairstyle, which is typical for women in that tribe

 

 

Safari photography
There is often not enough grass around the villages, and so sometimes, the cattle are taken many miles away

 

Safari photography
Mother is trying to calm her child. Behind is her house. It may not seem big, but that’s where her family lives. A 60 sqft house for the whole family!!
Safari photography
Adults often mix cattle blood with milk for drinking
Safari photography
Here’s a woman with a leather ring around her neck. It indicates that she is the first wife. No other rings are visible. That means she is the only wife her husband has.
Safari photography
In some areas, you can find kids on the side of the road dancing and doing tricks. All they want is an empty water bottle. Ignorant tourists feel sorry and give them money, bottles and other gifts. They don’t know that these kids are skipping school with the idea that they rather do this and make money(they sell the bottles) than study. Empty water bottles are sold in markets!
Africa Geographic Travel
Safari photography
The scars are from the bull jumping ceremony. Women let their men whip them with sticks, inflicting deep scars. If I am not mistaken, they also put oil or butter on the wounds to make the scars bigger. Every woman has to go through this ceremony. They are very proud of their scars!
This is how coffee is made in Ethiopia. Beans are roasted right in front of you. Then they are crushed, and hot water is added. I am not a coffee drinker, but I had it almost every day! You won’t be able to drink Starbucks after trying this coffee!!
Safari photography
Many tribes eat raw meat…They claim it tastes better than cooked!
Safari photography
All of these decorations are to show what tribe he/she belongs to. Beads are used in prayers to count blessings. They also believe that beads bring peace, health and prosperity to the wearer.
Safari photography
Many men and women take good care of their hair
Young people sometimes put on “everything they have” when they go to the market to show off to the ladies
Traditional Evangadi dance

All photographs © Dmitri Markine www.dmitrimarkine.com. Enjoy more great photos by Dmitri here.

Maasai people locked out of Loliondo

The Loliondo Game Controlled Area (LGCA), one of Tanzania’s most well-known Maasai community concessions and wildlife destinations is in the spotlight as local stakeholders and outside financial interests clash over its natural resources.

These tensions are not new, and given the location of Loliondo and the bounty of wildlife and grazing it carries, such tussles over competing land-use options are not surprising – what is surprising though is the manner in which the Tanzanian government has chosen to deal with the crisis. By choosing to side with a notorious foreign hunting company over a local Maasai community, they have shown a blatant disregard for traditional land-use rights and exposed the contradictions in their stated conservation goals.

Lying adjacent to the north-eastern portion of the Serengeti National Park, the significant array of wildlife found in this 4 000sqkm concession has over the last two decades attracted increasing numbers of hunters and ecotourists. The current dispute involves a United Arab Emirates (UAE) based hunting company called Ortello Business Corporation (OBC) with strong links to the royal family and military leaders of this tiny Arab state – they want their own private hunting grounds within Loliondo.

But tourism is a very recent arrival to these verdant ancestral lands of the Maasai who have been living and grazing cattle here for the past 200 years or so. More recently, this historical tenure was formalized in a 1959 compensatory agreement when the Maasai were moved here for permanent settlement after being banished from the Serengeti when it was declared a national park. Back in 1993 when OBC first muscled its way into Loliondo, Tanzania had just emerged from decades of heavy socialism that brought state control to every aspect of life. Quick to take advantage of the transition, the Arabs approached the then government and in the negotiations the Maasai were never consulted in any way over the granting of a long term lease. By all accounts this came as a Presidential decree offering extremely favourable terms to the new leaseholder.

Without consent or any form of buy-in from the traditional landowners, this was always going to be an acrimonious relationship. And the Arabs case has not being helped by allegations of illegal and unethical hunting practices, including the use of aircraft and machine-guns as well as baiting wildlife from the nearby Serengeti. Other accusations against them include the theft of wildlife from the concession, acts of intimidation and threats and bribes paid to silence people from within the community and government. This has all led to numerous public clashes between community residents and OBC and the authorities, who the Maasai accuse of being in cohorts with each other.

While the official government line for dealing with the disputes at this moment revolves around securing wildlife corridors in Loliondo, the inside view is that the Arabs are looking for new and better hunting grounds as they have pretty much blighted what they had. And it would seem they may just get their way again. In a recent announcement, the Minister of Natural Resources and Tourism proposed that Loliondo be split into two sections – 2 500sqkms for the Maasai and a 1 500sqkm ‘wildlife corridor’ to be reclaimed as the Minister put it “for the benefit of the nation.” With this move however, government has in essence served the Maasai with an eviction order by expropriating almost one-third of their ancestral land, and in the process made provision for the Arabs to get a new lease on an exclusive hunting bloc running alongside the Serengeti.

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The issue here is not about refuting the Minister’s wish to protect the country’s wildlife – all would agree this is imperative. Rather, it’s about the continuation of policies that entrench historical land injustices and a mindset that cannot accept the ownership, empowerment and conservation credentials of traditional communities living on the edges of Africa’s protected areas. The marginalization began with the arrival of colonial powers and the dispossession and impoverishment processes were completed during the creation of the continents national parks and reserves. Post-independence governments inherited the mess, but barring a few notable exceptions, they have only served to compound the injustices.

And the great irony here is that ‘for the benefit of the nation’ may actually mean for the benefit of a few wealthy foreign hunters with an appalling conservation record – and this will come at the expense of Tanzanian citizens that have historical rights to Loliondo and a belief system and pastoralist lifestyle in keeping with being natural conservators of wildlife.

This decision points to one of three scenarios. 1) The Tanzanian government simply has no regard for the traditional land rights of their citizens, 2) They again have failed to understand the dynamics and direct links between alienated and impoverished rural communities and many of the conservation battles taking place in and around protected areas or, 3) Both of the above are correct and this has led to high-level politicians believing the financial takings on offer are acceptable. It’s a decision that must be questioned at every level.

This battle is far from over. As a local Maasai councillor has said, “We are not ready to surrender even one meter of our land to investors for whatever reasons.”

© Ian Michler

If you would like to support the Maasai sign the petition Stand with the Maasai

Stunning Morrocan images by Award Winning Photographer Dmitri Markine

Where to begin? I spent a few weeks in Morocco back in December 2012 to January 2013. On my 3rd day there, I caught an infection which later grew into bronchitis. I was in a lot of pain, and there were days when I had no energy to hold even my smallest camera. Thankfully antibiotics did the work (eventually, when I was able to visit a hospital to see what was happening), and I am fully recovered now.

It was definitely an experience of a lifetime!

During the day, it’s pretty warm in Morocco with about 16-21C, but the temperature would get down to about +4C at night and in some areas, I’ve had to endure -5C while having no access to warmth. Electricity and hot water seem like expensive commodities in rural areas, and not many people have constant access to them. Luckily, winter does not last long, and during the summer, the temperature is scorching 24/7. Although I can’t really comment on summer food, in the winter, meats such as chicken, beef and lamb are very popular, along with tajine, rice, olives, vegetable soup, couscous and bread. Areas near the ocean tend to consume more seafood. I loved the lamb kebabs – they didn’t have that pungent taste and smell. It’s incredibly delicious! Mint tea and coffee are very popular drinks, and unlike coffee shops in other countries, they are served in tiny cups. Prices for a cup of coffee or tea range from about 0.30 cents to a more common ~$1-1.30, even for locals. Definitely not cheap.

As in some other countries, photography is challenging as nobody in general likes to have their photo taken. Women and girls usually quickly cover their faces as soon as they even see a camera.

I have here almost all the pictures I was able to take. There’s a bit more information provided under certain images with more explanation.

Morocco

 

Morocco
Streets of Fez
Street food is delicious. I took a picture of a man cooking my lamb kabobs ($3 for a meal)
Morocco Africa Geographic Travel
Fez, birds-view of the rooftops.
Morocco
Tannery in Fez. This is where they dye leather products you find at markets in the country. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work very well, and when you bend, say a leather belt, it leaves a permanent mark.
Morocco
Men working at a Tannery in Fez. It’s located in the Old Medina
Morocco
Kids playing at a school’s playground… I found it very creative, considering there are no other toys available.
Street food is delicious. I took a picture of a man cooking my lamb kabobs ($3 for a meal)
Morocco Morocco
Sahara Desert
Morocco
Sahara at sunrise

 

Morocco
Sweets for sale at Marrakech’s market. On the right is a picture of Mohammed VI, who is currently the king of Morocco. It seemed to be loved by many as pictures of them are everywhere(restaurants, houses, streets, restaurants and shops)

All photographs © Dmitri Markine www.dmitrimarkine.com. Enjoy. Enjoy more great photos by Dmitri here.

Searching for the elusive Sousa & the mythical sawfish – Part II.

First things first. No, sawfish are not cetaceans. Whales and dolphins are cetaceans; sawfish are sharks. But since my interest in Guinea-Bissau’s dolphins led me to the sawfish project, I have developed a fascination with this mysterious species, which seems poised for extinction. I am still horrified that such a distinct species, almost like something from an undersea fairy tale, could disappear from under our eyes in the modern age. And simultaneously, I hope and want to believe that we can still find them, that I might yet see a live sawfish. Go here to read part one of this story.

sawfish

Now, to the study results, which may knock these hopes of mine solidly to the ground. Not once did we hear about or see a very recently-caught sawfish. It seems that these fish, once common and frequently caught in Bissau-Guinean waters, are now a rarity. Almost all the fishers on the Bijagos indicated that they had not seen or caught sawfish for several decades. In other areas, however, a handful of fishermen did seem to indicate that catches had been more recent if sparse – several individuals stated that they knew of catches in the last 2 years. This contrasts with the landings data, which suggested that the last known catch of a sawfish was in 2005.

Considering the importance of these fish to the cultures of many Bijagos islanders, I was surprised and disappointed that they showed little dismay at the decline of such an emblematic species. Having used the image of sawfish in dances and costume for sacred ceremonies such as male circumcision and having prized the meat of the sawfish so highly, I imagined that its disappearance would have left more of an impact, but when I asked what they used for these ceremonies, now that they could no longer find sawfish, they were happy to report that a cow has the same value. Somehow I’m not sure that cows will fill the role in Guinea-Bissau’s marine ecosystem, though. Nor do they capture my imagination as the sawfish, with its mysterious, quite unbelievable form, does.

Elsewhere in Guinea-Bissau, sawfish are less important culturally but still held in high regard for their meat. We also asked whether anyone had a ‘saw’ (rostrum), as these were commonly kept as decorations in fishermen’s houses, and in some parts of the Bijagos, the saws were used on ceremonial masks and headdresses. Yet, it seems that the few tourists and travellers to have made it as far as the Bijagos Islands have cleaned out the villages of their remaining sawfish saws – I only saw one, in Cacine, during the month I spent in the field, as well as several on display in the Bijagos cultural museum in Bubaque, and in Bissau.

sawfish Africa Geographic Travel

When asked about the possible reasons for the decline of sawfish in their region, fishermen made several suggestions. Many of them acknowledged that overfishing may have played a large role and the influx of overseas fishermen to Bissau-Guinean waters was also frequently mentioned. Interestingly, older fishermen noted that sawfish used to be caught only with spears from the beach and that nets were not used there until recently. The sawfish’s saw can easily become entangled in a net and may have significantly increased the number of these fish being captured. Finally, many fishermen noted that the practice of finning, where a shark’s fins are cut off, and the rest of the body is discarded back into the water, is now common in Guinea-Bissau and may well have contributed to the sawfish’s decline. The practice of finning gained worldwide press attention in late December, as thousands of shark fins were found drying on the roof of a building in Hong Kong (read more here), but has been ongoing for years and seriously threatens to drive numerous sharks species to extinction in the next few years.

sawfish

The next steps in this study will involve following up with the few fishermen who knew of areas where sawfish might still be found. This information might be unreliable, but it is the only information we have at present for such a rare fish. The key is to locate at least one area where sawfish are still found and assess whether the species’ recovery might be possible.

Any information on sawfish from Africa, past or present, is valuable to research. Have you seen a live or dead sawfish, or the saw of a sawfish, anywhere in Africa? Or do you have photographs of old sawfish catches? If so, please contact Ruth Leeney and help conserve these amazing fish! 

Review of Birding Ethiopia by The Biggest Twitch

Original source: www.thebiggesttwitch.com
Published by: Lynx Edicions
Review by: Ruth Miller and Alan Davies

Why would a birder want to visit Ethiopia? We have all seen the television news pictures of a famine-torn land. Surely this is no birding destination? How wrong is this idea. 

Ethiopia is a vibrant, exciting, bird-rich country with a list of some 850 species and a surprising range of habitats, second only to South Africa in the number of endemic bird species on the continent. Surprising?

Birding Ethiopia
Golden breasted starling © K Bartlett

As a must-visit destination which we would thoroughly recommend, this new guide will open your eyes to an Ethiopia far removed from the TV pictures. Birding Ethiopia is very different from many sites guides we have used over the years. It is immediately eye-catching and a peek inside shows a lavishly illustrated book. Its 189 pages are packed with information, maps and breath- taking photographs of “must-see” birds. Of course a site guide must deliver a lot more than good looks and we settled down to read the text and see if it matched our recent experience of a month of fast-paced birding in Ethiopia in February 2008, during The Biggest Twitch.

The three authors, Ken Behrens, Keith Barnes and Christian Boix, are all hardened field birders and are never happier than when birding in the fast lane, a perfect team to write this book. All three have travelled throughout Ethiopia and visited every site in the book many times and know the locations, conditions and birds intimately. Not only do they know the sites and birds but they are accomplished bird photographers and their work brings the excellent text to colorful life with amazing bird images.

Lineated Pytilia © Christian Boix

So, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Is this a good site guide worth buying? Does it deliver for the birder planning a trip to Ethiopia?. The book opens with a map showing the locations of all 26 covered. This is followed by a very comprehensive 23-page introduction, which covers everything you need to know about this fascinating and so often misunderstood country. All the usual headings that we have come to expect in a travel guide, visas, driving, language, money, health etc are covered in short and to-the-point paragraphs, no waffle here. Suggested itineraries are outlined depending on how many birding days you have in-country, very helpful. Even the introduction is sprinkled with loads of photos of both birds and scenery, helping to build a picture of Ethiopia, something we would have found very useful before our own visit.

The section on bio-geography is particularly useful outlining the main habitats – a surprising diversity from the cold highlands, through forests and south to the deserts. By the time we had finished just the introduction, it had us planning another visit!. The birding sites are divided into three regions – The Northwest, The Great Rift Valley and The South – reflecting habitats and birding style. Each of these regions has a clear easy-to-read map with sites numbered for quick reference.

Birding Ethiopia
Black-winged Lovebird © Oz Pfenninger

An introduction details habitats and special birds to be found here.Each site is then treated in detail with a specific introduction giving information on the species and habitats at this spot. Next follows a list of “Species of interest”, then “Habitat” detailing altitude and vegetation. “Birding” describes in detail how to approach each site to see the maximum number of birds and here it is obvious the authors really know their stuff, with detailed information rather than sweeping generalizations found in many sites guides. In keeping with the rest of the book the style is concise without flowery use of language; this is written very much by birders for birders.

The text is cross-referenced with the site map, a letter on the map shows the key places, and this letter is embedded in the text. More stunning images are found on nearly every page: Spot-breasted Lapwing, Half-collared Kingfisher, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark, Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco and Stresemann’s Bush-Crow, mega birds you just have to see! A short section, “Time”, gives advice on when and how long to spend visiting each site. Then the “Directions”, where details of how to find each site, and once found … just where to bird. Again the authors’ first-hand experience comes through the text.

Birding Ethiopia
Spot-breasted Lapwing © Ken Behrens

Scattered amongst the site descriptions are information panels on related subjects. These are separate from the site text so do not distract the reader trying to find a vital piece of info. These panels give added value by discussing such topics as White-tailed Fluftail status, gelada baboons, endemic bird areas and more. Following the site descriptions, which form the bulk of the book, comes a “Specialty Birds of Ethiopia” section, and here are listed all the birds that make this country a must for the travelling birder. What a mouth-watering array of birds can be found in this enchanting country.

Africa Geographic Travel

The list follows Clements “Checklist of Birds of the World” (2007) and endemic species are highlighted in bold. Each page brings more wonderful birds that any keen birder would love to see; again stunning photos bring the pages to life. Check out the Short-tailed Lark on P146 or the Stresemann’s Bush-Crows on P155.

Finally the book concludes with an index of bird species. Here we have one small niggle: the species are not cross-referenced with the site numbers, rather the page number(s) where the bird is mentioned, not always the key site for the species. However, where the reference refers to a photograph, the page number is in bold which is helpful.

Birding Ethiopia
Arabian Bustard © Keith Barnes

To summarize, this book is a pure joy to use and raises the bar considerably for any future site guides. The three authors are to be congratulated on a simply superb user-friendly work. Even if you think you will never visit Ethiopia, it is well worth getting this book to see how a site guide should be, and we would not be at all surprised if after reading the book you start planning that trip you were never going to take!

Alan Davies and Ruth Miller, The Biggest Twitch.

Birding Ethiopia

Birding Ethiopia – A guide to the country’s birding sites. By Ken Behrens, Keith Barnes, Christian Boix. Published by Lynx Edicions – Montseny, 8, 08193 Bellaterra, Barcelona, www.lynxeds.com ISBN: 978-84-96553-55-3 Language: English. Format: Paperback. Pages: 256. Published: January 2010. RRP: £25.99 approx. $40 or 30 Euros.

Searching for the elusive Sousa & the mythical sawfish – Part I.

– ‘Where are you off to in your search for sawfish?’

– ‘Guinea-Bissau’

Queue quizzical look, which led me to explain that Guinea-Bissau (hereafter GB) was a small country to the south of Senegal, on the coast of West Africa. Quizzical look replaced by a blank nod.Very few people have heard of GB, or know anything about it, yet this little country has experienced much more than its share of warring and disruption since before its independence from Portuguese colonists, and a sense of unrest still prevails. It is this lack of stability which leaves the country poor, with little investment or development.

sawfish
Sawfish rostrum or ‘saw’. Photo: S. Wearne.

I was due to travel to GB in May this year to do a short contract for the French NGO, Noé Conservation, and then to do some of my own research on cetaceans. A sudden coup in early April, a fine example of the instability still plaguing this small nation, led me to delay my plans until things had calmed down. And so it was that in October, I set off for GB, determined to find out more about the supposedly near-extinct sawfish (fish of the scientific family Pristidae) and to establish whether, indeed, GB was as important a habitat for rare Atlantic humpback dolphins (Sousa teuszii) as had been suggested.

Plans changed considerably once I was in GB, and I spent the entire duration of my 5-week stay there collecting information on sawfish from fishermen and training local staff to carry out more interview surveys. We worked in 3 areas: the Parc National d’Orango (Bijagos Archipelago), Cacheu (northern mainland GB) and Cacine (in the south). The Bijagos is highlighted in guidebooks and websites as a cluster of pristine, isolated islands surrounded by turquoise waters full of fish, rays, turtles and other marine life; a haven for fishermen, snorkelers and those seeking a quiet respite from the noise and bustle of the mainland. Despite the islands’ beauty, it didn’t quite fit the Western ideal of a tropical escape. Food was limited to fish and rice, with few tropical fruits available. It’s hot – the kind of heavy, oppressive heat that makes even a 1 km walk to the beach seem like an enormous undertaking. We came across several miniature floating islands of trash on our way around the park by boat – one memorable one comprised an abandoned fishing net which had captured myriad plastic bottles, bags and other detritus until it became a choked mass that was near impossible to lift from the water. Local people were friendly and welcoming, on the whole, but not familiar with the link between individual actions and the health of the seas on which they so depend. Nowhere was this clearer than on the ferry on the way from the mainland to Bubaque, the most developed of the Bijagos Islands. We were packed so densely, amongst chickens and suitcases and portable stoves and plastic tubs and sacks of rice, that many of us stood for the entire 6-hour journey, and upon finishing their cans of sugary drinks, boxes of wine, packets of biscuits and bags of peanuts, no one seemed to give a second thought to casting the packaging into the wake of the heaving vessel. Soon to be cast upon some beach, I thought, inside the stomach of a tired old turtle. But object and be seen as the interfering foreigner in a place few white people visit. There are better ways to change people’s actions, but a much-bitten tongue is required in the interim.

Africa Geographic Travel
sawfish
Hauling in the rubbish-filled net, between Orango and Bubaque. Photo: S. Wearne.

It’s easy to criticize, but these islands are even more resource-limited than the Bissau-Guinean mainland. The lack of access to the islands – one ferry now runs once a week between Bissau and Bubaque – means that they have, until recently, retained their unique heritage and have been far less influenced by Western culture than the rest of West Africa. But their continued inaccessibility means that whilst modern products reach the islands, education (at least in terms of environmental awareness) has not. This, combined with increased fishing pressure from local and overseas fishermen, is likely to place new stresses on an important refuge for marine life.

But back to the study. The sawfish is an emblematic species for West Africa, demonstrated by the fact that it appears on the coins and notes of the Central West Africa currency, the Communaute Financiere Africaine franc (CFA). In GB, especially in the Bijagos islands, it is of particular cultural importance, with a sawfish’s saw (rostrum) featuring on many headdresses and ceremonial masks. Elsewhere in the West Africa region, the sawfish’s saw, when placed on the roof of a house, provides protection from evil spirits or signifies the strength and courage of the owner. The capture of a sawfish was required, in many Bijagos islands, for a young man to partake in some rituals such as circumcision and ‘grandesa’ (climbing the social ranks) ceremonies.

sawfish
Bijagos Islander wearing sawfish ceremonial mask.
sawfish
CFA banknote, showing a stylised image of a sawfish.

In the next post, I’ll provide an overview of the findings of this study and the next steps for the sawfish programme in GB. Thanks for reading!

Art on Safari

The perfect way to brush up your skills in the bush.

Three years ago Africa Geographic Travel and Alison Nicholls embarked on a fascinating and rather left-field Safari concept for the first time – an Art Safari.  We planned for a small group with a relaxed itinerary and very understanding hosts – to allow the creative juices to flow.  We invited artists and would-be artists of all skill levels to join us in the bush armed with a drawing pad, brushes and pencils.  Alison then took them through the basics of illustrating and sketching techniques (plus a few crafty tricks her and there) so that they can all capture the daily goings-on in South Africa’s Madikwe Game Reserve.

The safari was a huge success.  Here is some feedback from those that went along:

Ilona Etlenyi – Art Safari September 2011

The first part of my trip was an art- safari organized by Africa Geographic. Some of us met in Johannesburg the day before starting on our trip to the Madikwe Game Reserve. The selection of the Bush House was an excellent choice. We were the only guests at Bush House, and were treated as if we were royal guests. The rooms were most comfortable, meals and game drives were organized according to our wishes. Since it was unusually cold, we opted for game drives later in the day, since we had plenty to view and sketch sitting in the lawn chairs by the waterhole. Alison gave art lessons during the afternoons, we sketched a lioness eating a kill, we observed an elephant carcass at length (the stench was unbelievable), we saw zebras, giraffes, elephants, etc. One morning we went landscape painting to an area called Baboon Ridge.

I think all of us were sorry to leave at the end of 4 days.

Sketching by the waterhole

Penelope Bodry-Sanders – Art Safari September 2011

What I loved about this art safari is that you don’t have to be an artist to fully enjoy yourself. Art and science depend on “intense seeing” and if you want to sit quietly and watch animals move and interact with their environment and each other, an art safari provides the opportunity to fully explore and understand what you are seeing without the rushing about that so often prevails on traditional game viewing safaris.

For the artist, the experience is unparalleled and heightened on every level. Alison Nicholls is a generous and knowledgeable leader/teacher, helping you understand how animals are built, how they move and why they behave as they do. What better way to understand an animal than to draw or paint it? Alison is also a lovely and amusing traveling companion. I’ve been on over eighteen safaris and have never so thoroughly enjoyed my animal watching experiences. In fact, I cannot imagine going on future safaris without a sketchbook and pencil in my backpack and taking the time to sit, watch, listen, and to really “see” and record the marvels unfolding before me.

Lewis Mazzuca, Colorado – Art Safari September 2012

I attended Alison Nicholls’ Africa Geographic watercolor safari as a non-participating spouse.  I’m not a watercolorist, I’m a photographer and have been on four photo safaris previously.  Using my photo safari experiences as a baseline, I’ll state unequivocally that never have I experienced such professionalism, enthusiasm, organization and warmth as I did with Alison on this safari.  All previous photo safaris I’ve been on paled in comparison.

Alison’s organizational skills are superb, and her ability to orchestrate game drives, meals and other logistics all while providing each individual enough attention and mix it with a lot of laughter is most impressive.  I would not hesitate to recommend this African Geographic watercolor safari to my closest family and friends.  Thank you Alison, you made the safari an excellent experience for all.

Bobbi Bryson, Colorado- Art Safari September 2012

Alison taught us how to really look at an animal and see things that you don’t see from photos. I was able to continue sketching on the rest of our trip in Africa and found the game drives to be more interesting than before because I was constantly trying to sketch and by the end of our trip my sketches had much improved…

Africa Geographic Travel

Stacy Edick, Texas- Art Safari September 2012

This trip exceeded my expectations by leaps and bounds. From the hospitality of the Bush House, to the gentle and patient teachings of Alison, to the incredible company of fellow artists on a journey, the trip honestly is beyond words.

Celia Clowe (USA) – Art Safari September 2012

The trip was amazing. We saw 4 of the Big 5 + lots more. Sketching in the bush with Alison was a delight; she is thorough, humorous, knowledgeable, and patient. I found it amazing that the placement of a single line transformed my house cat into a lion. The lodge accommodations were 5 star, the food delicious and Geraldine the perfect hostess – really! Fantastic trip, well planned, what a pleasure.

Barbara Womack,Phoenix – Art Safari 2012

This past September I had one of the most memorable experiences of my life on a special art safari with Alison Nicholls, organized by Africa Geographic Travel. From start to finish, everything about this trip was outstanding. Prior to the trip, Alison provided our small group (5) with information on art supplies, clothing, and a range of other helpful tips. She made herself easily available by phone or email. Africa Geographic Travel was also very helpful (particularly Christian Boix) in making all necessary arrangements, like setting up my additional hotel reservations and handling logistics on a couple of private tours I wanted to take prior to the art safari.

All photos © Allison Nichols

The 2013 Art Safari will once again run this year (2-6 September), spending four nights in South Africa’s animal-rich Madikwe Game Reserve, based at the homely and relaxed “Bush House” Lodge. Once again we have booked out the entire camp exclusively for Africa Geographic Travel guests, so that you can while away your days sketching in the field and at the waterhole, soaking up Madikwe’s wildlife opportunities and Alison Nicholls’s trademark and endearing informal tuition.

No matter what your skill level may be, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned artist, Nicholls will endeavor to grow your skills and style in a relaxed environment whilst demonstrating how to sketch animals quickly, accurately and effectively.

Don’t miss out on this great opportunity to learn and improve your creative skills while enjoying the camaraderie of other wildlife lovers and the pleasure of being in the bush.

To find more about this tour visit  Art on Safari

A close encounter with the world’s smallest whale

The rough road through the salt pans, lined with greater and lesser flamingos, glossy white pelicans and scurrying speckled waders, led us to the salt works’ pump station. A good 50 metres and more from the waters edge lay a long, thin creature, bedecked in a patchwork jacket of red, purple, black and white that seemed ironically jaunty and carefree. Beneath the soaked rags that provided protection from the sun and drying wind, lay a forlorn pygmy right whale, the world’s smallest baleen whale*.

pygmy right whale
Pygmy right whale (Caperea marginata), & pump station in the background

Very few people have ever seen a pygmy right whale, and although I recently completed a scientific publication on this species**, summarising all the records we have of pygmy right whales occurring in Namibian waters, I too, had only seen the skeletons of pygmy right whales before. Pygmy right whales live only in the southern hemisphere and have been seen alive at sea only a handful of times, and much of what we know about them comes from studies of stranded animals in Australia and New Zealand. But here, under her multicoloured sunscreen, was a sleek, smooth hydrodynamic body, black on top fading to blue-grey on the sides and a white belly; an offshore whale in a decidedly onshore environment. No doubt stressed, the whale mostly kept her eyes closed as we covered her completely with extra towels and a bedsheet I had stuffed into my bag, keeping the blowholes on the top of her head uncovered so she could breathe. We then soaked the covers with seawater to keep her cool and prevent her skin from drying out.

pygmy right whale
The pygmy right whale was covered to prevent sunburn

The pygmy right whale reaches about 6 metres in length at adulthood (most baleen whales are considerably larger, with the blue whale reaching up to 30 metres). However, the little visitor at the pump station was just over 3 metres in length, indicating that she was a young animal, perhaps only a year old. Nonetheless, she likely weighed over 400 kg, and we did not think we would be able to lift her and carry her across the mud to the water’s edge while the tide was still low. So for three hours, we waited, watched, applied sunscreen to ourselves and seawater over the whale, and kept an eye on the jackal that was loitering in the background.

It’s so rare to encounter pygmy right whales that any stranding provides a unique opportunity to find out just a little more about the species. So, of course, while we waited for the tide, we collected what information we could – body measurements, photographs of every part of her and a skin sample which will be used for genetic analysis.

Africa Geographic Travel

The tide was rising, and by four o’clock, it had suddenly crept around our feet as we struggled into our wetsuits. The stretcher that was purchased in 2009 for the Namibian Strandings Network, funded by the Walvis Bay Municipality, was put to good use, and soon we were sliding a young pygmy right whale down the mudflats towards deeper water. After getting her muscles warmed up and her swimming motion coordinated, she started to move her tail more strongly, and we released the stretcher, still supporting her gently from underneath. Moments later, she kicked her tail and swam out into the bay. There was no further sign of her, so we could only hope that she had found her way around Pelican Point and out into the Atlantic Ocean.

pygmy right whale
Simon, Hannah and Monica recording measurement data
pygmy right whale
The team getting it on the stretcher

THANKS

Many people were involved in this rescue. Thanks to Antonie Potgieter and his colleague at the saltworks, who stood by until we arrived and provided the all-important covering to protect the whale from the sun. Naude Dreyer &Nico Robberts assisted the Namibian Dolphin Project team. Thanks also to Sandwich Harbour 4×4 for bringing along three enthusiastic Swiss tourists who provided the extra muscles needed to carry the whale out to deeper waters!

Original Source: West Africa Cetaceans

* Baleen whales are whales without teeth – instead, they have plates of baleen (called ‘whalebone’ in the past), made from keratin (as are our fingernails), through which they sieve the seawater, straining out the tiny animals on which they feed.

**R.H. Leeney, K. Post, P.B. Best, C.J. Hazevoet, S.H. Elwen. Pygmy right whale records from Namibia. African Journal of Marine Science (in press).

ALSO READ: Researchers use biological passport to monitor whale sharks – Earth’s largest fish

Hyena Men

This series of disturbing and yet fascinating images forms part of the work of acclaimed photographers Pieter Hugo and Adetokunbo Abiola in their book The Hyena & Other Men.

Photographer Pieter Hugo visited Nigeria to better understand this strange relationship between man and beast after seeing an image taken by Nigerian journalist Adetokunbo Abiola.

He travelled with this small family group of street performers and traditional medicine peddlers who use these animals as props, a practice handed down over many generations of hyena men. Hugo described this arrangement as “…hybridisation of the urban and the wild, and the paradoxical relationship that the handlers have with their animals – sometimes doting and affectionate, sometimes brutal and cruel”. His description reminded me of so many other human/animal relationships that go the same way.

Personally, I am horrified at the images and all they say about how their relationship with animals can become so twisted and conveniently devoid of any compassion.  And yet I feel drawn again and again to the images – just like the throngs of onlookers who pay money to see these animals perform in the streets of Nigeria.  If this wretched circus were to appear in your street, would you also be drawn into staring and so play a role in the sick system?

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The naked baboon

naked baboon

 

These pictures of a naked baboon were taken outside the complex of the Caribbea Bay Hotel, Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe. Photos by Ann Warner

Says Ann Warner:

“We were returning to the hotel at about 4.30 pm in the afternoon when I could not believe my eyes and asked my husband to stop the car.

Sitting on a rock was this very unusual baboon. I have to admit it gave us quite a fright and while I did manage to take these four shots, several more came out blurred due to my hands shaking. It seemed to be tagging along with a large troop of baboons that were passing through the hotel grounds and feeding in the vegetation close by. All eventually moved off with this naked baboon.”

Dr Hamish Curry, a vet in Cape Town that has assisted with baboon issues on the Cape Peninsula reacted to the pictures by saying,

” It’s not a pretty sight. I would need a history to get a proper diagnosis – but sarcoptic mange is possible. This is caused by an insect Sarcoptes scabei which is infectious to all mammals but generally will manifest in times of stress, as in nutritional stress and others. Fungal infection and hormonal imbalance are other possible causes.”

naked baboon naked baboon

READ more about baboons here.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton – South Africa’s Little England

Greyton is a wee, twee village a couple of hours’ drive from Cape Town.

Set in the Overberg region, with the Sonderend mountains as a backdrop, Greyton is all oak-lined lanes and itsy, bitsy country cottages. I recently spent a weekend here, and it felt like I’d wound back the clock and time travelled into an Olde English parish with white picket fences and farmers’ markets to boot.

Here are my top 10 things to do:

1. Sleep in The Treehouse. This place is really rather special – created by interior designer Anna Elisabettini and decked out with a four-poster bed, stand-alone clawfoot bathtub and gilt gold mirror – it’s Marie Antoinette meets Robinson Crusoe – weird but utterly wonderful. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to sleep in the treehouse, I discovered it because I stayed at one of Anna’s three other options – Mark Cottage, a gorgeous little place with curtained-off alcove beds built on straw bales and a patio shaded by olive trees and vine trellises.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton Top 10 things to do in Greyton

Mark Cottage

2. Go to the Saturday morning market. With bunting, hay bales and home-baked pork pies, you’ve got all the makings of a village fête at Greyton’s Saturday morning market. Open from 10am-Midday, look out for the deliciously refreshing watermelon juice and make sure to take home a tub of Loret’s red pepper and cashew nut pesto – it’s great mixed with pasta, olives and feta.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton

3. Ogle at art. It’s everywhere in Greyton; you’ll even find random paintings on the walls of houses – like this cow wearing a Father Christmas hat… Greyton has become somewhat of a haven for the artistically minded, David Kuijers, with his clean-cut lines, bold colours and child-like illustrations, is one of the more well-known; his art studio is well worth a look-in.

4. Eat good food. With freshly baked cakes, local meats, cheeses, jams and breads – Vias Deli is the place to go for a hamper full of food. Stock up and take a picnic to the nature reserve, or dine out at one of Greyton’s restaurants. Go to The Posthouse for a mean pork belly, Searles rustle up tasty pizzas best enjoyed in the garden, Peccadillos has a blackboard menu of traditional British grub, and Oak and Vigne does moreish sourdough sandwiches – opt for the BLT with homemade mustard mayo.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton Top 10 things to do in Greyton

The Posthouse

5. Ride a bicycle. Hire some wheels for the day and peddle yourself around Greyton’s side streets, soaking up the scenery at a leisurely, laid-back pace. Mountain bike buffs are in luck; the options in and around Greyton have increased dramatically in the last year thanks to a small band of enthusiasts who have built and marked many kilometres of track. Join the locals for 2-hour weekend trails leaving from the Oak & Vigne Saturday and Sunday at 7.00 am (during summer). Check the notice board next to the trail map at the Oak & Vigne (pictured below).

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6. Gorge on choccies. From humble beginnings, the Von Geusau Chocolaterie was started in a small cottage in Greyton by a former frustrated city accountant with a passion for fine chocolates. Richard Von Geusau learnt the art of chocolate making in Belgium, and his artisanal chocolates are high in cocoa with no artificial flavours or vegetable fats. All the chocolates are meticulously made by hand and infused with fresh farm cream, roasted nuts, exotic liqueurs, and geranium oil, amongst others. You’ll find his tasting room next to the Oak & Vigne on DS Botha St.

7. Taste local wine. Greyton has several boutique wine producers on its doorstep and open for tastings by prior arrangement. Andy Mitchell Wines offer garagiste-style blends; the first a Syrah produced in 2003 called Breakfast Rock, named after the highest point of the Greyton to McGregor trail, which starts very close to the cellar. Local Lismore Estate Vineyards was started by Californian Samantha O’Keefe, who believes she found paradise and the perfect terroir in Greyton. Her passion, combined with vines planted at 300 metres, chilled by the winter snow and nourished by the African summer sun, produces classic cool climate wines which are rich, complex and lovingly handcrafted.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton

8. Take a hike. There are many hiking routes starting from the nature reserve – including the Upper Gobos walk, which trails along the flat hilltop, covered with orchids and aristeas at the right time of the year. The path provides wonderful views of the village and the Riviersonderend mountains, with surrounding fynbos and a rock-hopping mission across the Gobos River. Watch out for the birds—plenty of sugarbirds, weavers and the endemic orange-breasted sunbird.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton

9. Peek-a-boo at a doll’s house. Norma Musgrave began collecting and curating doll houses back in England; she bought her first piece for her 50th birthday and started going to collectors’ fairs and visiting stately homes for inspiration. You can take a look at her creations inside Searles Trading Post; it’s like a scene from a period drama with one room (top left in picture) housing an old gentleman in a harris tweed jacket, monocle in his left eye, reading the newspaper.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton

10. Take home local crafts. Greyton is filled with treasures and trinkets – from pretty printed pillow covers to handcrafted rosehip candles and blown-glass suncatchers. Potter around the shops along main road and DS Botha St, and you’ll surely find something that catches your eye.

Find out more about Greyton on the Greyton Tourism website. Greyton is a popular weekend getaway from Cape Town.

Top 10 things to do in Greyton

The Magnificent Seven – Kruger’s giant elephants

The Magnificent Seven roamed Kruger National Park less than thirty years ago. They were seven impressive elephant bulls with tusks weighing more than 50 kg each. Information provided by SANParks

Dr. U de V Pienaar – the Chief Warden then – decided to publicise these elephants as a successful example of Kruger’s conservation work. He named these bulls The Magnificent Seven

Over time the tuskers became well-known, and now, many years later, they are still remembered as some of the most glorious animals in Africa.

These are their stories:

Dzombo (c.1935–1983)

The word Dzombo is derived from the Tsonga word Dzombolo meaning ‘to wait for something that is slow in coming’. This elephant was named after the Dzombo stream that traverses the Mopani Flats between the Shingwedzi and Shawu valleys.

Dzombo was the only one of the “Magnificent Seven” to be killed by poachers, and it was only by a stroke of luck that Dzombo’s two tusks were not taken. He died in a hail of bullets from an AK 47 fired by a poacher from Mozambique in October 1985. The miscreants were in the act of chopping out the tusks when they were disturbed by the approach of Ranger Ampie Espag and fled, leaving their trophies behind. Dzombo met an untimely death at the age of 50 years.
(Dzombo’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

João (date unknown)

Named by Anthony-Hall Martin after Prester John, the legendary priest-king of ancient Africa. (João being the Portuguese for ‘John’) João was a very large bull with a shoulder height of 340cm.

João was wounded by poachers in 1982; at this time, he was immobilized to investigate the damage. Fortunately, the wounds were not fatal, and after a dose of antibiotics and cleaning of the wounds, he was revived. While immobilized, he was fitted with a radio collar and measurements of his tusks were taken. His tusks were an estimated combined 130kg which at the time would have made him the heaviest ivory carrier of the Magnificent Seven.

In 1984 (approximately aged 45 years) João broke both tusks close to the lip line (20-30cm), presumably in a fight with another bull. Unfortunately, the pieces were never found, and as a result, João is the only member of the Magnificent Seven who is not represented in the Letaba Elephant Hall.

Kambaku (c.1930-1985)

The magnificent seven

Kambaku is the Tsonga word for ‘great tusker’ or ‘old elephant bull’. This bull moved over a huge tract of country stretching from Satara/Orpen and the Timbavati to Crocodile Bridge. Kambaku’s left ear had a perfectly round hole close to the outer edge, and towards the end of his life, he had no tail hairs.

Unlike several of the other Magnificent Seven bull, Kambaku was always seen alone. He was more than 55 years old when he was shot in late 1985 by Regional Ranger Lynn van Rooyen from the Lower Sabie Ranger Section. The bull was in obvious pain from a bullet wound suffered during a foray across the Crocodile River into a neighbouring sugar cane fields. The bullet penetrated his left shoulder, leaving a large wound which eventually became septic. When he could no longer walk, and it was clear that death was imminent, he was mercifully shot.
(Kambaku’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

Mafunyane (c.1926–1983)

The magnificent seven

This bull was named after the former warden of the Kruger National Park – Lou Steyn – who was well known for his quick temper. (Mafunyane is the Tsonga word for ‘the irritable one’, which appropriately refers to the elephant’s intolerance of humans.)
(Kloppers & Bornman (2005) (A Dictionary of KNP Place Names) gives the meaning of the name as “One who eats greedily”)

Mafunyane’s tusks are fairly straight, and their tips are worn to a chisel edge as a result of being rubbed on the ground as he moved. His tusks were perfectly symmetrical and of identical length and mass. The bull had a 10cm hole in the right side of his skull that extended into his nasal cavity, allowing him to breathe through this passage. One of the toes on his left hind foot was splayed to one side so that he left a distinctive impression, distinguishable from other elephants.

Mafunyane was the most famous of the “Magnificent Seven” although he was only seen in the wild by a handful of people and was rarely seen by visitors as he kept well away from roads. This could be attributed to his shyness or to the fact that his chosen roaming area was very remote.

The immobilization of Mafunyane on 8 June 1983 to fit a radio collar and to make plaster casts of the bull’s ivory nearly spelt the end for this bull. When given the antidote to the immobilization drugs Mafunyane due to his immense tusk size, was unable to ‘rock’ himself onto his chest, which would have allowed him to stand up, and his repeated efforts caused him to dig his tusks further into the ground. Several strategies were tried to raise him but all failed. After he had been down for several hours and front-end loader was brought in to assist the team. Mafunyane was eventually ‘scooped’ to his feet, and the bull rose and ran into the nearby Mopane bushes, much to the relief of the capture team.

Mafunyane’s remains were found on 16 November 1983 near Tari River, Northwest of Shingwedzi. He had been dead for approximately 3-4weeks and appeared to have died of natural causes. He was about 57 years old when he died.
(Mafunyane’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

Africa Geographic Travel

Ndlulamithi (c.1927–1985)

The magnificent seven

Ndlulamithi earned his name from his appearance, which is a traditional Tsonga word meaning “taller than the trees”.
The handsomely curved tusks of Ndlulamithi, the left one sweeping low and well forward, are significantly more twisted than those of the other large bulls. He was considered a tall elephant – probably around 345cm high at the shoulder.

Ndulamithi was first identified in 1980 along the Nkokodzi River in northern Kruger National Park. He was an aggressive yet secretive elephant and was seldom seen. This bull received some fame for charging Dr Anthony Hall-Martin and his assistant while they tried to photograph him on foot, his intentions unmistakable. He died of natural causes in 1985 in the Shangoni area at an estimated 58 years of age. Paul Zway, section ranger of Shangoni at the time, found his remains not far from the Nkokodzi Spruit.
(Ndulamithi’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

Shawu (c.1922–1982)

The magnificent seven

The “Shawu Bull” was named after the Shawu valley (Vlei) where he spent much of his life.

Shawu moved over a large range which spanned the flat mopani-covered plains country between the Letaba and Shingwedzi rivers and stretched from the main road to Lebombo Hills. Shawu’s tusks are the longest on record in the Kruger National Park and one of the 6th longest to ever come out of Africa.

Shawu was a fairly approachable animal and showed no particular fear or distrust of vehicles. He was a large bull with a shoulder height of 340cm. Due to the pincer formed by his large tusks, he was sometimes referred to in Afrikaans as “Groot Haaktand”. In 1981 it was decided to fit Shawu with a collar as poaching was a constant threat from Mozambique, this was successful, and he was monitored regularly.

Shawu died of old age in the Kostini area east of Shingwedzi, near the northern watershed of the Shawu Valley (Vlei), in October 1982. He had been ill for some time, and his condition and movements were monitored daily towards the end of his life through a radio transmitter which had been fitted in a collar around his neck. He was close to 60 years old when he died.
(Shawu’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

Shingwedzi (c.1925-1981)

The magnificent seven

Shingwedzi was named after the river and rest camp, where he spent the last few years of his life. (Shingwedzi means “place of ironstone”, referring to the gabbro rock outcrops common to the area. Shingwedzi is derived from the Tsonga word ngwetse, which means ‘the sound of metal objects rubbing against each other’). Shingwedzi’s ivory offers a good example of the classic master-servant tusks. He had a large right servant tusk and a shorter left master tusk.

Shingwedzi was found dead under a sycamore-fig tree – a short distance from Shingwedzi camp – in January 1981, and as far as can be determined, he died of natural causes. The age of an elephant can be fairly accurately determined from the state of wear of the teeth. In the case of Shingwedzi, the last molar (molar 6) was well worn down, giving him an estimated age of 56 years.
(Shingwedzi’s tusks are on display in the Letaba Elephant Hall)

The Magnificent Seven left their genes behind – Giants of the future

The 10 most remarkable birds in Ghana

Here they are – the most interesting and sought-after birds in Ghana, according to Africa Geographic safari guru Christian Boix

1. White-necked Picathartes

Bounds through the forest stealthily and effortlessly from one liana to the next in a gollum-like fashion. These birds gather in silent and mysterious crowds by cave entrances to breed in overhangs – building half-cup mud nests just like swallows do. Ravishingly gorgeous and enigmatic, this afro palaeo-endemic is Ghana’s indisputable MEGA!

2. African Piculet

birds in Ghana

 Africa’s smallest Woodpecker may not be the most colourful, but it sure oozes plenty of energy… and if you ever catch sight of one, you will no doubt be amazed by its relentless twig-drilling prowess. The very trait gives away its whereabouts.

3. Great Blue Turaco

birds in Ghana
Photo copyright Benjamin Schwartz

Bigga, betta and several times louda, this gargantuan turaco-on-steroids never disappoints!

4. White-throated Blue Swallow

Scarce and fleeting, this riverine swallow never fails to dazzle the observer with its electric and eclectic blues

5. White-crested Tiger Heron

birds in Ghana
Photo copyright Christian Boix

Although it may never be admitted, this extremely shy yet chunky Bittern of the lowland forests will continue to represent a significant milestone in anyone’s Afrotropical birding existence/endeavours.

6. Egyptian Plover

Africa Geographic Travel

Arguably the most handsome shorebird in the world, this radiant and gutsy wader can be easily seen strutting its stuff along the shores of the Volta, and per-chance, picking debris off a crocodile’s dentures if you are extremely lucky.

7. White-breasted Guineafowl

birds in Ghana

Vulnerable, rare and localized, this chunky and sought-after game bird moves in a ghost-like fashion through the glooms of Ghana’s lowland forests, providing but glimpses to the lucky few patient enough to track them down.

8. Standard-winged Nightjar

birds in Ghana
Photo copyright Ian Fulton

Displaying the most exquisite and delicate plumage in Africa, this lekking nightjar will have you in awe as it approaches or hovers over you with its feathery trains, which at dusk twirl and whirl as they are trailed, resembling two mobbing drongos in hot pursuit. Indeed – a MUST-see to BELIEVE!

9. Yellow or Black-Casqued Hornbill

Loud, loquacious and voluptuous, both these species may be seen with relative ease from the canopy walkway at Kakum NP, a huge advantage from the usual dappled and fleeting glimpses provided from the forest floor. Listening to their approach in the canopies of Kakum, with wing beats that closely resemble a steam engine at full speed, eyeing out these canopy behemoths as they fly past you a few meters away is something you can never forget.

10. Western-wattled Cuckoo Shrike

birds in Ghana

Resembling one of Madagascar’s Vangas, this near-mythical canopy-dwelling and elusive species has graced very few birders and kept many more wishing, hoping and dreaming for a fleeting sight.

There you have them – the 10 most remarkable birds in Ghana!

Also read: Getting to know the grey parrot

Shiwa N’gandu, Zambia’s enchanting English estate

Northern Zambia. Shiwa N’gandu to Kapiysha Hot Springs. 22- 24th November 2012

After leaving the Great North Road, I drove along a dirt track until I came to a surreal visual. The scene was old, English countryside brick houses and an avenue of eucalyptus trees leading up to a huge country estate in the middle of Africa.

zambia

The land was bought by Stewart Gore-Browne, a colonial boundary commissioner who stumbled across Shiwa N’gandu (the estate) in 1914 and deemed it picturesque enough to be the setting for the house of his dreams. After he died, the house fell into decay, that is, until it came into the care of Jo and Charley Harvey who restored it to its former glory.

I am staying in the Chitele room, named after Chief Chitele, who supposedly stayed here on a visit with Gore-Browne. Being at altitude it gets pretty chilly at night and it’s very welcomed when the ladies come and light the fire in the room at around 4pm. The warm glow sets quite the scene alongside the hunting trophies on the walls from Gore-Browne’s days. There is also no electricity nor MTN cell phone reception and I am going a little cold-turkey from all my digital gadgets.

Jo and Charley are treating me very well indeed, they took me on a drive around the property – there are plenty of magnificent vistas and loads of birds and game to see. We even visited the lake which captured Gore-Browne’s imagination, it was this same lake where David Livingstone lost his dog to a crocodile and it’s said that this is where he completed his final writing before his death.

shiwa ngandu

Apart from the beautiful surroundings, the house is just so full of stories. I could spend days looking through all the photo albums and diaries that Gore-Browne kept, soaking up the bygone years. The Harvey family are related to the late Gore-Browne and they have some great stories to tell, it was an absolute pleasure sitting in the lounge for drinks and dinner with them – never a dull day working the land I hear. I suddenly felt very inspired being there and I am now determined to find myself a ‘project’ for when I get back.

Shiwa Ngandu Zambia country house

After a good night’s rest I went off to Kapishya Hot Springs with another Harvey, Mark. It’s only 20kms down the road and yet it’s so-o-o different. The vegetation is tropical – green and fresh and the chalet design has a distinct Thai/Indonesian feel. There is a campsite too.

Of course there are the hot springs themselves, which are completely natural. I wish I could’ve stayed longer as there is so much to do! Apart from walking the bird trail, floating and swimming in the river and springs, there is a beautiful new spa offering a variety of massages and treatments. Unfortunately all I had time for was a dip in the springs.

kaipysha hot springs zambia kaipysha hot springs at shiwa ngandu

Incidentally, Mark’s wife is a brilliant cook. She made us a scrumptious curry and supposedly does some mean stir fries too. After sharing a bottle of Italian Prosecco in the middle of ‘darkest Africa’, I decided to call it a night as I had a long drive the next day. My next destination, only 250km from Shiwa N’gandu, is an enchanting manor on a huge estate in the middle of Zambia with a fascinating history and stories to tell as the crow flies, but owing to a flooded river I had to take a lo-o-ong detour around Lusaka to get to South Luangwa National Park.

Mountain gorillas on the rise in Bwindi, Uganda!

The mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) population in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (BINP) has increased to an estimated 400 individuals, according to the recent released results of a three-week census carried out by the Ugandan Wildlife Authority (UWA) in September and October 2011.

This is an increase from the 2002 and 2006 censuses, which showed the total number of mountain gorillas in the region to be 320 and 340 respectively. The recent tally has revealed that there are 36 gorilla families and 16 solitary males living inside Bwindi.

It is estimated that there are now 880 mountain gorillas left in the wild. (A 2010 census in the Virunga massif region – made up of Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (Uganda), Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda) and Virunga National Park (Democratic Republic of Congo) – showed the population stood at 480; Bwindi holds the balance of the population.)

Mountain gorilla
© Sean Messham

“The mountain gorilla is the only great ape whose population is increasing despite continuous pressure on its habitat,” said Dr Augustin Basabose, Interim Director of the International Gorilla Conservation Program (IGCP). This positive trend is due to the strong collaboration among the three countries where mountain gorillas live and the collective efforts on the ground by park staff, surrounding communities and local government and non-governmental organisations.”

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The census teams moved through Bwindi twice, making use of new genetic technology and field methods to get the best results possible. “Even with evolving census methods, the results indicate that this population has indeed increased over the past five years, and that is very encouraging for this critically endangered species,” stated Maryke Gret, Technical Advisor to the IGCP.

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the most popular tourism destinations in Africa.

Note: While it was initially planned for the census to include Sarambwe Nature Reserve in the Democratic Republic of Congo, a protected area connected to Bwindi. increasing insecurity in the region at the time precluded entrance by the UWA team.

Mountain gorilla
© Sean Messham

Nothing like a good grooming – Ethiopia style!

Ethiopia is the opposite of what the world tells us – there’s nothing that will prepare you for the beauty and richness of experiences this country has on offer. I certainly had no clue what was in store for me the day I visited Simien Mountains National Park.

The aim of my Ethiopia visit was to enjoy the ruggedness of the Simien Mountains, otherwise known as the Chessboard of the Gods. It’s also one of the best places in the world to view Gelada monkeys at close quarters. That said, just how close my encounter was going to be was certainly not on the brochure!

Finding a troop of Gelada’s was not too hard. Essentially once you have spotted one, you can expect several hundred in tow; they are gregarious and very social (no jokes!). They are also the last surviving species of a once widespread group of grass-grazing primates, living in some of the most complex primate communities and indeed requiring the most advanced and varied communication skills – which in Gelada consist of an incredible vocabulary of grunts, barks and mutterings that is very audible when you are sitting amongst them.

ethiopia
Out of the blue, a small female ambled towards me and sat a foot away from me with her back to me. Scared to spoil the moment, I did what any great biologist in the world would do… NOTHING!

Annoyed by my lack of social skills, the female turned her head, gave me the once-over with her beady eyes and, placing her left hand over her right shoulder, tapped and shrugged her shoulder. The primal instinct in me knew exactly what I was being asked to do, and letting go of all fears, I reached over and started to groom for the very first time. A total novice, I applied every move I had observed over the last years and duly worked her fur and back from one shoulder blade to the next.

Gotta admit that I was petrified that on the next hair parting, I would find some “gogga” (ectoparasite) that would require me to pry it out and bite its head off.  Luckily, my first-ever grooming partner was parasite-free. My eyes were hurting though – from keep an eye on my chore and on the nearby large dominant males in case they objected to my actions.

Just as  I thought I was off the hook, she turned her head to reveal eyes tightly shut and bright pink eyelids – signs of ecstasy. She motioned unequivocally with her hand and, by tilting her neck sideways, asked for a neck groom.

I worked her neck on both sides, scalp, behind the ears and throat… and finally decided to call it a day.  As I started to leave she spun around on her buttocks and faced me, scanning for fur to groom. It was my turn and so I lowered my head and pointed at it; she rose in front of me and started to work my curls, ears, neck, and sideburns!

ethiopia ethiopia2 ethiopia

Tables now reversed I still feared that she may find something in my hair. After all, she was a pro at this game and surely had a much better-trained eye than mine. But fortunately, it all ended in a draw – Ethiopia 0, South Africa 0.

My troop and fellow travelling partners on this safari to Ethiopia now needed lunch, and her troop had drifted a few meters beyond… somehow we both knew to which troop we belonged and parted our ways. However, there is not a day that goes by that I wonder how she shares this story with others.

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Leopard toad alert

On those cold, miserable winter evenings, when you were snugly tucked in front of the fire, Karoline Hanks was tackling the elements, on the lookout for toads.

leopard toad
© Toad NUTS

It’s nightfall in Noordhoek. Angry black storm clouds shunt over the mountain and then clear temporarily to reveal a perfectly plump, full moon.

Right now, the rain is coming down in sheets, and that’s my cue to get togged up in a bright reflective rain suit and head out into the busy rush hour traffic.

I plug a cable into the cigarette lighter, fasten the revolving amber warning light onto the roof, slap two big magnetic decals onto the side and back of my vehicle, toss my clipboard, egg-flip and torches into the passenger seat and set off.

At an agonizingly slow 40 kms an hour, I cruise up and down Silvermine and Main Roads, wiper blades swishing and hazard lights flickering.

My eyes are peeled to the slick, shiny tarmac.

I do this for three hours. Fellow volunteer patrollers will be out scouring a different stretch of road, and a fresh pair of eyes will arrive to relieve me and scour my beat later in the evening.

And then I see one.

leopard toad
© Toad NUTS

A female western leopard toad on the verge, facing the opposite side about to make her perilous way across the road. She’s massive – you cannot miss her bright, shiny form against the dark road. I quickly move to the side of the road, stop the car, flash a torch up and down in the direction of the animal to warn speedy home-comers and dash across the road to pick her up and move her over. Very often, she’ll emit a grateful little grunt from deep in her belly.

This can happen up to 20 times on a single patrol.

Africa Geographic Travel

I am very often just too late. On one particular patrol, I had to move (and record) as many as ten dead toads with the (rather undignified) egg-flip. This is done purely for statistical reasons. It is the most heartbreaking aspect of the evening. So often, it is a matter of seconds – skip a beat, and you reach the shiny twitching mess in the wake of an uncaring motorist.

These days, the endemic western leopard toad (Amietophrynus pantherinus) is restricted to small areas of the Overberg and a few isolated pockets in the southern peninsula. As an ‘explosive breeder’, the leopard toad only breeds during a specific window period towards the end of the rainy season. They migrate almost exclusively on wet, rainy nights and, more commonly, under a full moon.

The urge to breed comes with the overwhelming impulse to move. They face a hazardous journey from gardens to ponds – where mating and egg-laying take place. Decades back, this would have been perfectly hazard-free. Today, however, the spaces between breeding ponds are now crisscrossed with electric fences, walls, canals, driveways, swimming pools and, worst of all, increasingly busy roads.

The scourge of suburbia and development has resulted in a significant decline in populations of the western leopard toad. Introduced or exotic fauna and flora like domestic ducks, koi fish and algae also threaten the integrity of breeding habitats.

This is where the patrollers come in. We are there to help the males, females, and even amplexus (mating) pairs get from A to B without being pancaked by rubber.

There are many patrols in a single season (up to 430 this year). 2012 was a particularly long one in the southern peninsula, with the toads starting their movement much later than usual and keeping us on our toes well into September.

© Toad NUTS

The 2012 season saw a total of 562 toads saved in the Noordhoek/Sun Valley/Fish Hoek and Clovelly area. Sadly, it also saw about 130 senseless fatalities. On the busiest night of the season, a staggering 101 toads were encountered on the roads – just on the Noordhoek beat!

The Toad NUTS group has been up and running since 2008. Under the leadership of two passionate local residents (Alison Faraday and Suzie J’Kul), the group has grown from strength to strength and has managed to attract an astounding number of loyal, dedicated volunteer patrollers who give up their time and energy every season.

When confronted by the cynics – and there are many about – one is challenged on the degree of dedication, time and effort put into saving one species. Why spend so much energy saving a toad, I am asked – when thousands of people down the road are living in squalor?

Or… why bother? They’re just toads. Sure….and over there, there are ‘just’ wild dogs….or blue swallows…or riverine rabbits. Who gets to choose what is more important – when, let’s face it….choices abound!

leopard toad
© Toad NUTS

Every single species is important, and though toads are not everyone’s cup of tea, these little guys are as vital to ecosystem integrity.

For more on what you can do to save this extraordinary species from the cliff edge of extinction, visit Toadnuts on Facebook

24 hours in paradise: a game count in Zimbabwe

I’m tired but happy. I’ve counted 14 different species, and there are literally hundreds of animals spread out before me, cropping the fresh emerald grass that is sprouting through the black ash left by a veld fire that tore through here a week ago. Zebras are braying everywhere, and between the jostling herds are rare species – roan, sable, tsessebe and a handful of eland. Last night more than 100 elephants ghosted through to drink at the three springs on the plain.

Impala at Masuma Dam © Tony Park

Where am I? Not in Tanzania, not Botswana, not Kenya. I’m in Hwange National Park, taking part in the annual game census organised by Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe, formerly the Wildlife Society of Zimbabwe.

The game count has become the focal point of the travel calendar for my wife and me. This year’s was our 13th, and it’s a wonderful, unique experience that’s accessible to ordinary people.

Teams of volunteers assemble at Hwange’s three rest camps – Main, Sinamatella and Robins – just before the last full moon of the dry season, usually in late September or early October. Coordinators then dispatch the teams (typically two to four people) to waterholes, hides and pools in otherwise dry riverbeds across Hwange. Once in place, the idea is to stay put for 24 hours, from midday to midday, and to count and (if possible) sex anything that comes along. The full moon provides surprisingly good light at night, and if the sky stays clear, as it did this year, a fairly accurate count can be made.

The Hwange game count has been running since 1972 and is the longest continuous wildlife census in southern Africa. Results are tabulated in a professional report that is available to national parks and researchers. It’s particularly useful for keeping tabs on rare and endangered species such as African wild dog (painted wolf) and cheetah.

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Zimbabwe has had good rains in recent years, but last year’s wet season was short and the effects are visible as we drive through the park. Hwange’s flagship viewing hides at Nyamandlovu and Masuma overlook teeming herds of game, but water around our base camp, at Robins in the northwest of the park, is in short supply.

That’s bad news for Hwange’s elephant population (estimated at between 30 000 and 50 000), and at several waterholes, we see elephants that have died of exhaustion. The flip side of this sad sight is that predator numbers are excellent; we see lions on six of the seven days we are here. Also, with wildlife clustering around the remaining water points, we know we’ll have a good count.

game count
Competion for water is rife at Masuma Dam © Tony Park

Our coordinator has assigned us to one of my favourite of Hwange’s hidden gems – the vlei behind the abandoned Deka Private Camp, way out to the west of Robins on the Botswana border. Driving through kilometre after kilometre of dry golden grass and mopane trees reduced to toothpicks by hungry elephants, a first-time visitor might think that there are few animals left in the park. This is a mistake.

Hwange is dry, and many of its waterholes are pumped, but there are also numerous natural seeps and springs, and these are where the animals seek sustenance when the temperature hits 40 degrees and the wind sucks the last of the moisture out of the remaining vegetation.

game count
A kudu taking a well-deserved water -break in the 40 degree heat. © Tony Park

Deka Vlei is one such place. When we arrive, it’s like a mini Serengeti snapshot, with plains game covering the open savanna, shimmering in the heat. We set up our two Land Rovers on a rise and put up an awning to protect us from the worst of the sun.  But there’s a breeze blowing, so it’s bearable by day and chilly by night.

Taking it in shifts, the four of us sit out the long night, and at five in the morning, a male lion starts roaring. He doesn’t pass us, but friends counting from the veranda of the old Deka camp, a kilometre from us, see his pride of 14 lionesses and cubs.

For a nominal membership and game count fee, I’ve been allowed to experience something magical, sitting under a full moon in the middle of the bush with only my wife and a couple of friends, contributing in a small way to something that we hope will be of use to someone.

For more information on the Hwange game census, contact Tony via his website www.tonypark.net 

The legend of the Mapogo lions

‘Legend’ is a word thrown around all too often in this day and age, but the term encapsulates the reign of the Mapogo lions in the Sabi Sands (Greater Kruger) to perfection.  For the last six years or so, this notorious band of brothers has ruled the area with an iron paw.  They are true warriors and have proved themselves time after time on the field of battle.  During their prime, 6 of these magnificent specimens patrolled their territory, dispatching all competitors and striking fear into the hearts of all that found themselves in their way.


Mapogo lions
© Richard de Gouveia

Legend has it that the Mapogo lions were responsible for killing numerous males, females and cubs as they stamped their authority on their domain. Whole prides have been wiped out in their relentless march for dominance, and challengers have been eaten as acts of defiance. A former warden of the Sabi Sands has been cited saying that he believes them accountable for over 100 lion fatalities, although the true number will probably never be known.  Never before has the local lion population been so dominated, and it is stories like this that have elevated their exploits to legendary status.

The lions of Mapogo, Sabi Sands
© Ben Coley
Mapogo lions
© Richard de Gouveia

These pride brothers may have a fearsome reputation, but in the world of the lion, they should be seen as the epitomes of what a successful coalition should be.  The Mapogo lions have been labelled as sadistic and remorseless, to mention only a few adjectives assigned to them, and yet their exploits have ensured safe breeding grounds and stability in an area of unusually high competition.  Their success has changed the dynamic of the lion population in this area forever, and it is no surprise that litters are becoming skewed in favour of male offspring.  This is inevitable as nature attempts to balance the scales and provide a more level playing field.

The lions of Mapogo, Sabi Sands
© Ben Coley
Mapogo lions
© Richard de Gouveia

In recent years, new and equally formidable coalitions have been responsible for whittling down the Mapogo’s numbers as territorial lines were drawn in the sand and crossed, and repeated battles were waged.  The Majingilanes in the north and the Southern Pride males in the south have both had their say in shaping the new regime and now all that remains of the mighty Mapogo are two ageing specimens known as Makhulu and Pretty Boy.

Africa Geographic Travel

Since being overthrown by the Southern Pride males, the last of the Mapogo lions legends have been sighted regularly on Sabi Sabi as they search for new territory or maybe just sanctuary as they live out the remainder of their days.  At 14 and 11 years of age, they have surpassed the life expectancy of most male lions and carry the scars of years of conflict on the front line.

During my six years of working in the bushveld, I have been privileged to view and come into close contact with many different lions from different areas of South Africa and Tanzania, but I can honestly say that I have never witnessed such magnificent specimens as these two remaining legends.  Perhaps the stigma attached to them accentuates their aura, but they are the most intimidating lions I have laid eyes upon.  It is not merely their freakish size and musculature that raises the adrenaline levels and starts the heart pounding, but the look contained deep within their eyes.

© Ben Coley

Peering into those yellow abysses, one can truly feel the history and experience of many a hard-fought battle in which the deciding factor was power and a will to survive.  Their eyes bore through you like no other lions I have ever seen, and I refuse to believe anyone who claims not to feel a slight pang of uncertainty when they stare back at you.  The uneasiness of their presence is something that I have never felt before when watching the Kruger males.  For fear of downplaying the current kings of Sabi Sabi, the last of the Mapogo make them look like kittens.

Mapogo lions
© Ben Coley

It is hard not to paint the Mapogos as terrifying, evil beasts due to the wrath they have rained down on the area, but I hope they are remembered as great rulers and protectors.  They have raised the bar as to the expectations of male coalitions in so far as protecting territory and ensuring their genetic success.  They should be seen as role models, not killers.

In conclusion, legendary status is hard to achieve, but ask anyone who has worked in the Sabi Sands for the last seven years, and they will tell you tales of the Mapogo.  Sadistic tyrants or protective fathers?  Both could be claimed true, but the fact is that their arrival heralded a new age of the lion population in the Sabi Sands.  Love them or hate them; their exploits will never be forgotten.  These tales will undoubtedly be embellished and exaggerated, but this is how great icons are born.  Over time, these stories will become myths, and myths will become legends: a fitting legacy for the most famous lions of the modern era.


Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari. You can choose a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.


 

Caracals count too: mesopredator research in the Cederberg

On a recent trip to the Cederberg with my 9-year-old son, I arranged to meet a young researcher working for the Cape Leopard Trust. I was keen to chat to her about the work of the CLT on caracals, and to try and expose my son to the blood, sweat, mud and tears side of scientific research and data gathering.

Unfortunately, on the day we had set aside to hook up, a fairly vicious cold front whipped in over the mountains, and the usually red-tinged rocks were being lashed by icy wind and rain. Our little mountain hut at Driehoek became the only viable warm, dry meeting place.

The diminutive, bubbly, French-speaking Marine Drouilly spent well over an hour with us, and we all huddled around her laptop, looking at all the incredible images from the various camera traps and learning all about her work.

Caracals
Rooibos and Marine © Cape Leopard Trust

The main objective of Marine’s project is to study the spatial and behavioural ecology of the caracal (Caracal caracal) in a fairly extensive area of the Cederberg, including the Cederberg Conservancy. Very little has been published about this elusive species, particularly concerning interactions with the area’s apex predator, the Cape leopard (vital natural regulators of caracals).

Armed with up-to-date data and knowledge, effective conservation and management strategies can be designed and implemented. With a more solid understanding of the way these two species interact (with regards to interspecific behaviour, habitat use and prey preferences); it is more likely that local farmers will come to understand how critical it is to maintain ecological balance. Marine pointed out that there is a real paucity of data addressing even the most basic ecological questions for many of the smaller predators, not just caracal.

Thanks to almost a decade of tireless work by the Cape Leopard Trust (and with the support of local farmers), the level of leopard persecution by farmers has diminished significantly in the Cederberg.

Caracals
Before the CLT began, the area boasted the highest levels of leopard-farmer conflict in the Western Cape, with a staggering 17 leopards killed in one year. The last leopard killed in the area was in 2004 © Cape Leopard Trust

It is fairly well known that livestock farmers throughout southern Africa are less than partial towards caracals or ‘rooikat’ and they are very often persecuted because of the suspected damage to small livestock. Tragically, these beautiful cats are even classified as ‘problem animals’ in this country – along with jackals, badgers and genets. Beyond the Conservancy boundaries, caracals frequently come into conflict with farmers, where livestock become opportunistic prey items. In most natural areas, natural prey animals are still available to these cats.

Marine went on to explain that the caracal is considered a ‘mesopredator’ – a term that refers to its trophic ranking. What is important in this study is to get a handle on what would happen if the apex predators were persecuted to the point where they were removed from the system. Would there be what scientists dub ‘mesopredator release’? There are catastrophic examples of this from all over the world – from the removal of wolves in Asia, bears and wolves in North America to lions and wild dogs here on our continent. Such negative impacts on apex predators can have devastating ecological consequences. The ripple-down effect can often lead to an increase in populations of the mesopredator, which, in turn, can negatively impact the ecology of the prey species.

Caracals
The research caracals all have scientific ID names and colloquial names: Rooibos (FC2), Rocky (MC2) and Easter (MC5) © Cape Leopard Trust

So just how will Marine be tackling this big research question? How does one search for and analyse the proverbial needle in a haystack? These animals are notoriously difficult to study given their elusive, nocturnal habits. Through a painstakingly slow process of capturing and collaring animals (with GPS devices), vital data on their movement can be gathered, and mapping can begin to take place. Plotting movements, verifying how feeding ecology compares to other species and establishing the extent of their home ranges all form pieces in the giant ‘caracal jigsaw puzzle’. Once the pieces are put together, it will then be possible to find and suggest practical solutions to reduce the inevitable human-wildlife conflicts that play out between caracals and farmers.

Marine has been working in the area since March 2012. What struck me about Marine is her real love for these much-maligned animals. This is no hard-arsed researcher – here is a soft-hearted soul who really wants to be sure that the animals do not suffer at all in the process of data gathering and she makes sure that the safest possible capture techniques are used (and has gone so far as to try out one of the methods on herself!)

Marine explained that CLT’s founder, Dr Quinton Martins, began collaring caracal in 2008 to assess the feasibility of conducting a full-blown study on the species. Martins and his team collared 3 male caracals before Marine’s arrival. The team have since managed to collar a female.

The data gleaned thus far shows that territorial male caracals can have ranges that extend as far as 100 square kilometres! They have also established that caracal prey ranges from klipspringer, grey rhebok, grey duiker, grysbok, dassie, bat-eared fox to (surprisingly!) black-backed jackal. What I found particularly fascinating and pertinent was that of the 21 caracal kills located in 2009 using GPS points, only one was a lamb. Food for thought, indeed.

Marine also showed us an impressive collection of photographs taken with the dozen or so cameras that have been placed in the field. From large and small-spotted genets leaping high into the air in response to the flash, to curious baboons with their noses pressed up against the lens, aardwolf, porcupine, African wild cat, honey badgers, nightjars and even a striped polecat. Getting up close and personal with the hustle and bustle of the Cederberg night prowlers was a rare treat indeed.

The Cape Leopard Trust is the main sponsor of Marine’s caracal project. The use of the research vehicle, the 4 GPS collars, fuel and traps are all courtesy of the CLT. When you consider that a single collar costs R 20 000 and a camera can cost up to R 3 000, this is no walk in the park when it comes to funding needs! Very often, the cost of research equipment is what limits the extent of scientific research. The project recently received funding from the Wilderness Wildlife Trust to cover the veterinary fees.

What is truly heartening about this project is how farmers and landowners in the area (particularly in the Conservancy) have allowed for studying a self-regulating population of caracal and leopard over the years. This project stands as a real beacon of hope and an example of how (with just the right level of intervention) landowner attitudes and behaviour can shift and human-wildlife conflict can be avoided.

Read more about the rooikat here.

The boy with sapphire eyes

The boy with sapphire eyes
Photo copyright Vanessa Bristow

The above image was recently submitted by Vanessa Bristow, who called it ‘The Boy with Sapphire Eyes’.

Within minutes of posting this magical picture, there was an enormous flood of comments and feedback. Amongst much of the rumpus was a fair degree of suspicion, doubting and downright slander about the picture’s authenticity. Swoops of ‘blatant photoshopping’ were amongst the commotion. Most people came to their immediate conclusion that this photo was fake!

Africa Geographic Travel

Let us set the record straight. The photo of the boy with sapphire eyes is not altered at all. Here is a comment from the photographer herself:

“To all of you DOUBTING THOMAS’ out there who distrust the originality of this photograph: It is NOT Photoshopped. I was in the local communal lands looking for my lost Dalmatian dog, and I stopped to ask his mother if she had seen it. While I was talking to her, her son, who was playing with his siblings and friends nearby, caught my eye. I asked her if I could photograph him, and this is the first picture that I took of him – it was possibly his first interaction up close with a white person, and his fascination in me, or the camera, is evident. I took a few photos of him at the time and a few more later during a follow-up.  An ophthalmologist friend had this to say about his unusual eyes:

[quote]”The picture of the little boy with the blue eyes and dark skin probably represents Ocular Albinism or Nettleship-Falls albinism, or Juvenile uveitis. Both conditions cause the pigment of the iris to be less dense.”[/quote]

Thanks for all the support from those of you who like my picture.

The below picture of Theuns was taken a week or two after the first. This time, he was much more relaxed with me, and I let him “click” the camera a few times to get him to engage with me.”

The boy with sapphire eyes
Photo copyright Vanessa Bristow

Continues Ms Bristow: “I must say, when I first saw the photo, I initially thought that blue eyes sometimes occurred in black people because of a recessive gene. If you are interested in reading a fascinating book – I recommend ‘The Sunburnt Queen’, by Hazel Crampton. Based in the 1730s, the book is about a seven-year-old English girl who was washed up on the Wild Coast of South Africa and adopted by her rescuers. She grew to be a woman of astounding beauty and wisdom and became the wife of a prince; thus starting a dynasty that extends to many of today’s Xhosa royal families.

Because of her recessive gene in the bloodline, now and then, a black child in the area is born with bright blue eyes.”

Rare spotless cheetah sighted in Kenya

Armed with a spotter plane and a LandRover in hot pursuit, wildlife artist Guy Coombes searched for the elusive spotless cheetah.

“I was told about this incredible ‘morph’ phenomenon that has not been seen for over 90 years. The last one recorded was shot in Tanzania in 1921. ‘Morph’ means a genetic colour variation; the most well-known being the ‘king’ cheetah, specimens of which have only occurred in South Africa and Zimbabwe. The Mughal Emperor of India recorded having a white cheetah presented to him in 1608, saying that the spots were blue in colour and the whiteness of the body also inclined to blue-ishness. There are also reported cases of melanism or albinism, but the latter does not apply to this spotless cheetah. The only reported cases of this morph, which scientists believe is a recessive gene like the king cheetah, have been in East Africa from the subspecies, acynonix jubatus raineyii.” – excerpt from Guy Coombes’ account with a ‘morph’ cheetah

spotless cheetah
spotless cheetah

Photos © Guy Coombes

Guy Coombes photographed this rare ‘morph’ cheetah in the Athi-Kapiti area of south­ern Kenya over a year ago.

Cheetahs are the fastest land mammals, with documented speeds up to 115 km/hour in captivity and 93 km/hour in the wild, but they cannot maintain such speeds for more than a few hundred metres. By comparison, sprinter Usain Bolt hits a top speed of 45 km/hour over a maximum of 100 metres.
They are found in a wide range of habitats, from dry forest and thick scrub to savannah grassland and arid deserts. Read more about cheetahs here.

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