Page 10 – Africa Geographic

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

Lying just 33 kilometres north of the equator, snug in the heart of the African continent, a world of mystery and unparalleled beauty awaits the adventurous – the Rwenzori Mountains. Rising majestically along the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, these enigmatic peaks evoke a sense of wonder and intrigue to all who visit – providing for an African safari like no other.

The landscape of the Rwenzoris is a dramatic blend of rugged peaks, deep valleys, and cascading waterfalls. Towering above the surrounding plains, the snow-capped mountains create a breathtaking panorama. Glacial lakes shimmer amidst the lush vegetation, and the thundering waters of the Mubuku and Bujuku Rivers add to the park’s pristine beauty. The diverse topography of the region and its location in the tropics offers a seldom-seen diversity of ecosystems, from bamboo forests to alpine meadows and moss-draped valleys.

Of rainmakers and mighty rivers

Recognised for its unique biodiversity and the value of water flowing from its mountainsides, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park was established in 1991. In 1994, UNESCO afforded it World Heritage Site status, and in 2008, it was named a Ramsar site for its value in the protection of wetlands. The park now conserves almost 1,000km² of this unique and vulnerable region with its five distinct vegetation zones and unprecedented levels of endemic species.

The Rwenzori Mountain region has been home to many diverse people and societies for millennia. All recognised the value of the water flowing from the peaks and held them sacred. The Bakonzo people even named the mountains “rainmaker”, a fitting name for what is one of Africa’s most essential water sources.

Ptolemy, the Greek-Egyptian astronomer, mathematician, and geographer, incorrectly identified the Rwenzoris as the source of the Nile River, giving the range its charming moniker “Montes Lunae” or the “Mountains of the Moon”. Not until much later was the true source discovered at Lake Victoria in Uganda.

Since becoming known outside of Africa, the region has captivated the imaginations of explorers, adventurers and scientists worldwide, sparking expeditions to try and unravel the mysteries and secrets of this primordial wonder.

The national park’s various trekking experiences are undoubted highlights

Moody rainforests and misty Rwenzori peaks

The Rwenzori massif stretches for roughly 120 kilometres along the western leg of the Albertine Rift, its jagged ridges, glacial valleys, and lush vegetation creating an otherworldly landscape that beckons the adventurous. These majestic giants are adorned with a crown of ever-present snow and ice, defying their equatorial location and creating a unique alpine environment. The unique combination of high altitude, equatorial location, and calm, wet climate in the Rwenzori Mountains has resulted in distinct ecosystems and rich biodiversity. It is not only the imposing height and alpine beauty that define the Mountains of the Moon. Its exceptional biodiversity and remarkable flora characterise the region. Within its diverse ecological zones, from the lowland rainforests to the moss-draped afro-alpine zone, one can discover a wealth of endemic plant species, colourful birdlife, and elusive wildlife.

The central mountain massif, Mount Stanley (also known as Mount Ngaliema), comprises three 5,000m peaks, of which Margherita is the tallest at 5,109m above sea level. This is the third highest peak in Africa after Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, but is perhaps the most difficult to summit because of the very rugged nature of the terrain there.

The highest peaks in the Rwenzori Mountains are permanently snowcapped. Here, the snows of Margherita, part of Mount Stanley, can be seen

Trekking the Rwenzori grand trails

The Rwenzori Mountains National Park offers many attractions catering to nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers, making for a truly unique African safari experience. The park’s undoubted highlights are the Rwenzori Mountain trekking experiences available. Multi-day hikes, ranging from moderate to strenuous, allow visitors to immerse themselves in the grandeur of the mountains. The most popular trekking route is the Kilembe Trail, which allows adventurers to explore the lower slopes of the mountains and witness breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape without the exhilarating challenge of tackling the higher peaks.

If time is a challenge, a day trip with a trained and knowledgeable guide will take you along trails offering insights into the region’s unique ecology, while pointing out endemic plant species, identifying bird calls and revealing the cultural charm of the area. Participating in cultural activities, such as traditional dances, storytelling sessions, and visits to local villages, will help you gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s heritage while contributing to the livelihoods of the people who protect this environment.

Rwenzori forest specials

A visit to this region will enthral and richly reward you with sightings and experiences beyond your expectations. Your trek up these “rainmaker mountains” will take you gradually through five distinct vegetation zones, from grassland to the surreal afro-alpine landscape and on to equatorial glaciers. This diversity of habitats is rewarding but naturally yields “specials” found nowhere else. Regardless of your passion, you’ll find yourself marvelling at far more than you thought you might have should you embark on a trip to the Rwenzoris for your next African safari.

The early stages of a trek introduces visitor to the rustic lowland surroundings of coffee, vanilla and banana plantations. These soon give way at around 2,500m to shady and often misty montane forests with moss-covered trees, closed canopies, waterfalls and streams.

Here, you will do well to scan for some of the elusive forest specials the park is known for. If you are quiet and lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the Rwenzori red duiker on the forest floor. At the same time, up in the canopy, Rwenzori colobus and blue monkeys and an intriguing diversity of bird specials await. For the sharp-eyed, hiding in plain sight is the prehistoric and somewhat comical-looking Rwenzori three-horned chameleon.

The park boasts seventeen of the twenty-four Albertine Rift endemic bird species, but they will take hard work and perhaps a little luck to find. Keep an eye out for the Rwenzori turaco, handsome francolin, strange weaver, Rwenzori nightjar, barred long-tailed cuckoo, Cassin’s hawk eagle, Shelley’s crimsonwing and purple-breasted, blue-headed and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds.

Hiring a good bird guide will help you “grab” these species, which can be frustratingly elusive. Bring a good pair of binoculars, as the low-light forest viewing conditions can make viewing difficult.

At around 3,000m, trekkers enter an eerie and dark zone of giant bamboo grasses up to 30 metres tall, which will obscure the sky as if nature is covering one’s eyes for the surprise to come. Soon, a heather and moor wonderland is revealed as the equatorial peaks appear above.

Giant groundsels dotted across the Rwenzori Mountains

The real wonders of the Rwenzoris start above 4,000m, where botanical marvels, which evolved in isolation over millions of years, can be found. This is the afro-alpine zone – perhaps the most surreal part of this mountain world. Shrouded in mountain mists and inaccessible due to the challenging terrain, the area has been a refuge for plant life undergoing perilous evolutionary journeys. This isolation has allowed plants to evolve uniquely, adapting to the extreme conditions and carving out their niche in this montane ecosystem. The remarkable giants of the Rwenzori Mountains are a testament to the power of adaptation and the extraordinary wonders nature can create.

Enchanting giant lobelias (Lobelia gibberoa) stand tall, like sentinels, along the rugged slopes. These are among the most iconic plant species of the Rwenzori Mountains, reaching staggering heights of up to 10 metres, making them true botanical giants. Sharing their lofty habitat are giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio adnivalis), another botanical wonder of the Rwenzori Mountains. With their woody stems and tufts of silver-grey leaves, they seem to belong to a different era altogether. The groundsels bloom with clusters of bright yellow flowers that attract a myriad of insects, adding life to this surreal environment.

Explore and Stay

Check out our selection of walking safari options for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from – or ask us to build one just for you.

Exploring the Rwenzori Mountains National Park is a thrilling adventure with a range of accommodation options to suit your preference, from comfortable lodges to campsites. The nearby town of Kasese provides a convenient base for trekkers, offering hotels and guesthouses for those seeking a more urban experience.

Staying in the park or its vicinity allows visitors to savour the tranquillity of the mountains and embrace the soul-stirring beauty of this unique destination. Nyakalengija Park headquarters and campsite is an excellent place to begin your trip. Register at the park office, obtain the necessary permits, and meet your experienced local guides and porters who will accompany you throughout your journey.

Kilembe Base Camp offers accommodations for hikers and provides basic facilities while also being a convenient starting point for that hiking route.

Mount Baker and Lake Bujuku can be seen from the Bujuku Peak hike’s camp

Bujuku Valley is a picturesque area renowned for its stunning scenery. Visitors can traverse this valley, crossing fast-flowing rivers and observing mesmerising waterfalls along the way. The challenging Bujuku Peak hike offers panoramic views of the mountains and valleys.

For those seeking a shorter trek, the Mahoma Trail is a popular option. This trail takes visitors up through pristine bamboo forests, offering glimpses of diverse bird species and the chance to see the elusive Rwenzori turaco.

The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is an enchanting world where nature’s wonders are magnificently displayed. From the towering peaks to the astonishing alpine flora, every facet of this extraordinary landscape beckons travellers to embark on a remarkable life-altering journey. For those who visit, the Rwenzoris will etch themselves on the soul.

Further Reading

Here’s our list of Africa’s must-visit mountain kingdoms – discover their magnitude, scenery and the creatures that call them home

Parenting, Wahlberg’s eagle style: making financial brokers proud

Why does the Wahlberg’s eagle lay only one egg? Most other eagles in their genus (Aquila) lay a second egg as a type of insurance policy – and in most cases, the second fledgling is killed through siblicide. The answer to the Wahlberg’s unique parenting style is fascinating…

The hard truth about birds in the nest

Most eagle chicks in the Aquila genus are ‘siblicidal’. This means that siblings fight each other to the point of death. The chicks are fiercely competitive for the food brought to the nest by the parents, and often, the bigger chick in the nest kills the smaller one, either through monopolising the food or pecking the younger sibling to the point where it is too cowed to move or beg and starves. So, what are the possible (evolutionary) reasons for this?

Dr Rob Simmons has always been fascinated by eagles. He became particularly interested in why some eagle species laid two eggs yet only ever rear one chick (because of siblicide). Why not just lay one egg? There has long been a theory that eagles lay two eggs as an insurance policy – if the first egg fails to hatch or the fledgling dies, they still have the second egg. However, the insurance policy does not hold true for all species that lay two eggs. In some species, the second egg regularly fails to hatch, even if the first one is unsuccessful. Could other life-history traits or environmental factors explain why some eagles lay one egg and some two eggs? If second eggs are not energetically costly for eagles to produce, all eagles should lay two eggs as an insurance policy. But some do not. The Wahlberg’s eagle (Aquila wahlbergi) regularly lays only one egg per clutch.

So, Simmons hatched a plan. He realised he could learn more about why an eagle would want to invest in two eggs by experimenting with an eagle that typically lays only one.

Wahlberg’s eagle is one of the smallest Aquila eagles (weighing only 1.3kg). It is an African migrant that breeds at high densities throughout southern Africa. Unusually for its size (there is a general allometric relationship in birds – species with smaller body sizes tend to have larger clutch sizes), the Wahlberg’s eagle typically lays only one egg per clutch. However, very occasionally, they do lay two eggs. This makes them an ideal species to look for patterns underlying the costs and benefits of one versus two eggs. Dr Simmons based his post-doctorate on the breeding dynamics of this species and conducted his fieldwork in Sabi Sand Game Reserve – Greater Kruger. How does one measure breeding success in nests many metres above your head? Simmons spent much time hanging from the high branches of jackalberry trees on a swaying rope ladder, sometimes up to 15 metres above the ground, measuring and weighing eggs and fledglings in Wahlberg’s eagle nests. He also used extendible mirrors as a less energetic way to check on their family life.

One of the first things Simmons confirmed was that the incidence of natural two-egg clutches was very low in this species. In 88 breeding events, a two-egg clutch was laid naturally only twice and in one of these nests, the first egg was unsuccessful, and the second egg survived, so the insurance policy proved valid.

But then why don’t all the pairs lay two eggs? Are these eagles all talking to the same investment broker?

Could it be that they lay two eggs when food is abundant? Previous experiments where Simmons gave extra food to breeding pairs before they laid did not result in any two-egg clutches. The abundance of food doesn’t explain the low incidence of two-egg clutches.

Simmons then wondered if the chicks exhibited siblicide, given that the Wahlberg’s eagle usually lays only one egg. He brought some small, similar-sized Wahlberg’s eagle chicks into his field laboratory and paired them up with each other in nest trays. He then rapidly had to unpair them, as they showed intense sibling aggression. They even climbed out of their nest trays to attack their neighbours in their boxes!

So now Simmons knew he had a species that usually laid one egg but could also lay two, which would result in siblicide.

He then asked if these eagles could rear two chicks given the chance, so he decided to add an extra chick of similar size to eight Wahlberg’s eagle nests. To avoid the second chick being killed by the first one, he waited until the aggressive phase had finished (about 35 days) and then added the extra fledgling to the nest. Imagine coming home to discover, out of the blue, that you have double the number of mouths to feed!

Simmons watched the nests carefully, and the parents accepted both chicks. There was no apparent aggression, and the adults appeared to feed both chicks equally. So, what happened to the chicks in these nests?

An eagle in the hand is worth two in the bush

Of the eight Wahlberg’s eagle pairs given a second chick by Simmons, only one pair succeeded in raising both chicks to the age of first flight. In all cases, the second chick lost weight and ended up smaller than the first. Simmons pinned it down to parental care. The parents just couldn’t cope with feeding two offspring. What was more fascinating was what the parents decided to do the following year. They rested! By tagging 35 adult Wahlbergs, Simmons found out that most breeding pairs returned to their territories every year – so he could compare the breeding success of birds that raised one chick and those that were given two. Significantly fewer of the pairs that had two chicks bred the following year compared to pairs that only had one chick.

So, let’s sum up what he has found out. It is costly for the Wahlberg’s eagles to have two chicks. Two are hard work to feed and have poor survival rates. Plus, the parents become too exhausted to breed the following year (so less eagle young is produced in the long run).

Egg-cellent investment

Could it be that hatching success is so great that the eagles don’t need a second egg for insurance? No, their hatching failure (ca 12,3%) is similar to that of other carnivorous birds that do produce two-egg clutches. So, what could be the advantage of producing a single egg? Simmons compared the Wahlberg’s eagle eggs to those of other species. The egg sizes of raptor species laying just one egg per clutch were 20-55% larger than the first egg of raptors laying two eggs per clutch. Simmons also observed that the sizes of hatched Wahlberg’s eagle eggs were bigger than the unhatched (unsuccessful) eggs. The bigger – the better. Big eggs might bring increased hatching success or chick survival.

All eagles are not equal. They don’t always choose the same insurance policy either. One might expect the Wahlberg’s eagle, with chicks demonstrating siblicide behaviour and small body size, to follow the insurance egg policy of having two eggs – but this is not the case. Simmons shows that clutch size might be a function of the number of chicks the parents can feasibly afford to feed, and they therefore ‘choose’ to make one larger egg.

Bigger eggs are more hatchable, so the Wahlberg’s eagles are putting their investment in a nest egg (excuse the pun) – in one big, successful egg rather than two smaller eggs. They are choosing egg quality over egg quantity. Single, large eggs do not require second-egg insurance as they are intrinsically more likely to hatch. Lots of studies point to the fact that chicks hatching from large eggs enjoy greater chances of nestling survival and enhanced growth characteristics than small chicks and eggs. This larger body size confers a measurable survival advantage and has been correlated with lifetime success. Therefore, large egg size can have a reproductive advantage in later life – what your broker would call a high-risk, high-reward strategy. Whereas eagles that lay two eggs in a clutch could be said to be putting all their eggs in one basket. The inevitable siblicide is the fine-tuning of getting bang for your buck – parent eagles tolerate siblicide as it optimises the quality of the remaining chick.

Cost-benefit analysis

Simmons qualifies that producing a large viable egg is most likely in long-lived bird species. Long-lived species would want to maximise adult survival and thus avoid the smaller two insurance eggs as this would compromise their ability to produce larger, higher-quality eggs. The intrinsically higher hatchability of large eggs offsets the need for second-egg insurance and results in large chicks with enhanced survival prospects. Put that in the bank!

References and resources

Simmons, R. (1997) “Why don’t all siblicidal eagles lay insurance eggs? The egg quality hypothesis.” Behavioral Ecology 8 (5) pp. 544-550.

THIS WEEK – The year that was: our best stories and safaris

During 2023 you engaged with our stories more than 2 million times. More than 27,000 new adventurers joined our tribe. And many of you travelled with us to the wildest corners of the continent for your safari fix.

This, in the context of the last decade, where 16 million of you have read our stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word and CELEBRATE AFRICA.

Here are some of our highlights from 2023, the year that was:

Our 2023 story picks

Things to do in Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. We shared our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, and our tribe started planning their adventures.

Trophy hunted
A male desert-adapted lion was hunted amidst suspicious circumstances in Namibia. We asked questions of MEFT and triggered international awareness and action

15 Top African wildlife experience
We prepared the ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here were our choices of 15 top African wildlife experiences on the continent

Vet fences
Our most popular story showed you care about the welfare of Africa’s wildlife. Gail Thomson asked whether Namibia & Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences

Archeological magic in Makgadikgadi
Archaeological sites in the Makgadikgadi salt pans reveal how ancient humans used black silcrete formed from lake mud to make tools

Bush or beach?
There’s no need to choose! We brought you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday

Our most popular safaris in 2023

Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda
Is this the best bucket-list safari out there? AG’s followers think so! This safari offers the chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country!

Maasai Mara migration season safari
This safari offers front-row seats to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara

Southern Africa mega safari
This safari-to-end-all-safaris will sweep you off your feet. An iconic holiday in southern Africa that combines Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls

Your top social media pics this year

Your impact this year

This year, you helped make a difference for Africa’s wildlife by supporting our conservation campaigns.

As pangolin-poaching season kicked off in the cooler winter months, you stepped up to help treat pangolins rescued from trafficking. Thank you for supporting our Save a Pangolin campaign. You helped provide treatment and rehabilitation for pangolins saved from poaching and taken for treatment at Provet Wildlife Services, just outside Greater Kruger.

You also helped save Africa’s free-roaming lion populations by supporting our Collar a Lion campaign. By donating to our conservation partner, the Southern Africa Conservation Trust, you raised funds to purchase GPS satellite collars to monitor lion populations and drive the conservation of wild lions.

Looking to 2024

Our 2024 resolution is again to uncover new, responsible safari options and fascinating stories for you – our tribe of passionate travelling conservationists. Thank you for helping us to deliver on that promise in 2023.

We’ll be back with your regular dose of African celebration next week.

Don’t forget to set your safari resolutions for next year in motion, and start planning your epic safari adventure now.

Wishing you a very happy 2024!

From teamAG

THIS WEEK – Happy festive season, tribe!

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Happy festive season, tribe!

It’s time to relax with family and friends as we enjoy the last days of the year. It’s been a wonderful year for teamAG and hopefully for you as well. This week, instead of our usual newsletter fare, we share with you a brief celebratory video (click the video above). Our last newsletter for the year next week will feature our favourite stories from 2023.

Our safari experts will be on duty over the entire festive season in case you decide to start planning your next epic safari!

Enjoy and take care.

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

THIS WEEK

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Botswana elephant poaching increase + walking safaris

Sometimes the revealing facts we publish come at great personal risk and cost. Our information comes from a variety of sources – including from within governments, parastatals and specific industries committing the foul acts. As you know, governments and industries hate the negative publicity that evidence of incompetence, fraud and corruption brings. The disturbing article below about the rise (again) of elephant poaching in Botswana is a case in point.

To the heroes who risk all to help us shine a spotlight on the truth: I SALUTE YOU. A luta continua …

Meanwhile, back in my bushveld hometown, dinner is served! Recent rains have brought out the flying termites and everything with a mouth is feasting on these nutritious morsels. From frogs to scorpions and eagles to doves – they’re all tucking in. Good times!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The partnership between humans and honeyguides – birds who solicit the help of humans to break open bees’ nests – has long been known to science. The birds lead the human honey hunters to the bees, and then feast on the wax and bee larvae left after hunters have raided the nest. Scientists also discovered years ago that the birds and honey hunters evolve together, with humans developing calls to entice and summon the honeyguides when they have a hankering for honey.

But did you know that greater honeyguides learn the very specific dialects of their local honey hunters? It’s not the catchiness of the tunes that attracts the birds, but rather that they have learnt the traditions of their local humans.

A new study shows that “the birds recognise and respond to calls from their local area”. The call used by Yao honey hunters in Niassa Special Reserve in Mozambique, for example, is very different from the call used by the Hadza honey hunters in northern Tanzania. When scientists played the Mozambican calls to honeyguides in Tanzania, the birds were less likely to respond, and vice versa. The study shows that birds develop their own cultures, and humans and honeyguides sustain each other’s traditions in their specific locales.

If you’re longing to walk the bushveld and get in touch with these and other facts of nature, check out the guide we’ve put together on walking safaris. And don’t miss our story on increased elephant poaching in Botswana below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/is-elephant-poaching-on-the-rise-in-botswana/
ELEPHANT POACHING
A spate of arrests points to an elephant poaching increase in Botswana, shining a light on anti-poaching systems

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/africa-on-foot-11-top-walking-safaris/
WALKING SAFARIS
Walking in the bushveld with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about nature. Here are 11 top walking safaris

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Want to go on safari in Zambia? Check out the irresistible special offer below and let AG plan your dream African safari.

Early bird special – Kafue explorer – From US$2,175pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular. Explore this extraordinary wilderness – its waterways, floodplains and miombo woodlands – and encounter the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. Take advantage of this early bird special and you could be setting off for Zambia soon! Book before 31 March 2024 and save big on a safari of a lifetime.

Saving Africa’s wild lions

You can help save African lions! Africa’s free-roaming lions are under threat from human-wildlife conflict. These lions are an essential part of the continent’s ecosystems, its tourism industry, and its livelihood.

Thankfully, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and partners have embarked on a project to conserve lions. They require GPS satellite collars to develop lion management plans. They also provide an early warning system to local communities about the whereabouts of lions, allowing them to react quickly to potential problems and avoid human-lion conflict.

You can help to save these wild lions by making a contribution to the SACT through our Collar a Lion campaign.

Find out more about how you can help save free-roaming lions and what your sponsorship will include.

WATCH: A Kruger walking safari will show you wild Africa, at your own pace. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents (01:40) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Is elephant poaching on the rise in Botswana?

A recent spate of arrests of elephant poachers in Namibia has shone the light on an apparent increase in poaching of elephants in Botswana and led to questions surrounding the efficacy of anti-poaching systems in the region.

Africa Geographic is aware of at least four separate incidents within ten days this past month, where arrests were made in Namibia of poaching groups smuggling tusks. Seizures totalled up to at least 68 elephant tusks weighing almost a ton. Arrests occurred in Namibia’s Zambezi region, which borders Botswana and Zambia. Most tusks allegedly came from elephants recently poached in Botswana.

In one arrest operation, officials acted on information that the Zambezi region is being used as a transit route to smuggle the tusks of poached elephants from Botswana to Zambia.

In addition, Africa Geographic has learned that 25 carcasses of recently poached adult bull elephants have been identified in Botswana’s NG15 wildlife management area (Linyanti Reserve), south of the Savuti Channel, in October and November 2023. These carcasses showed signs of suspicious human activity: skulls had been chopped, tusks removed, and spinal cords cut. Another elephant carcass with tusks missing was seen in Chobe National Park. The age of these carcasses showed that they were poached between September and November this year.

“Over the last few years there have been several alleged cases involving poaching gangs from Zambia, some Namibians, and complicit Botswana enforcement personnel,” says Mary Rice, Executive Director of the Environmental Investigation Agency, “Most interdictions have taken place in Namibia, where it seems, the enforcement community are more effective – and proactive – in tackling the armed gangs involved; gangs who have moved through the Botswana landscape, laden down with firearms, expedition equipment and a massive haul of large tusks.”

Rice draws attention to the challenges of policing Botswana’s vast wilderness to intercept poaching incidents. “We know that poaching gangs have been exploiting the weak governance and enforcement of Botswana’s vast wilderness area for several years. Recent documented cases include significant rhino poaching incidents and interdictions of rhino horn. Still, with Botswana’s rhino population seriously depleted now, gangs are turning their sights increasingly to ivory,” says Rice.

With rhino poaching incidents in the region on the decline – most likely due to the depletion of rhino populations, poachers are seemingly turning to ivory to fill the gap.

Elephant poaching cases in Namibia are also on the increase. Spokesperson for Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) Romeo Muyunda said in a recent interview that “while we are winning the fight against the illegal killing of rhinos, elephant poaching is picking up.” When the interview was conducted at the end of November, Namibia had recorded eight cases of elephant poaching for 2023 to date, an increase from four cases reported in 2022. Myunda noted that elephants poached in 2023 were killed in the Kavango and Zambezi region communal areas.

In 2018 and 2019, Africa Geographic reported on a spike in elephant poaching in Botswana, and it seems that a similar reoccurrence is brewing. But since 2019, little information has been published about elephant poaching in Botswana.

However, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed that elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population in the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area, which covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses was identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system. This is a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. Following the release of the results, Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator, said, “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.”

The Environmental Investigation Agency database indicates that there have been 21 seizures of ivory linked to Botswana since 2017. Key countries linked to the illegal ivory trade in Botswana include Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe; Namibia and Zimbabwe (and Zambia) are transit countries for ivory sourced from Botswana involving Zambian nationals, according to Rice.

“Whilst there was a lull in illegal trade during Covid, large seizures are now being made again, which indicates an ongoing illegal trade. Nigeria has emerged, and has been confirmed, as the key exit point for ivory and other wildlife en route to Asia,” says Rice. “It is also a consolidation point for products sourced from the region – Gabon, DRC – but also from southern Africa.”

The current state of affairs and alleged lack of action to subvert poaching in Botswana has conservationists questioning the Botswana government’s stance.

“The poachers in Botswana seem to be able to pick and choose among the largest elephants in their area of operation… indicative that these poachers can take their time, travel around, follow elephant herds, camp out, select what they want,” said conservationist, Dr Pieter Kat, in a recent statement published on social media. “I am of the opinion that the poachers have established a collaborating network of people in Botswana facilitating poaching gunners, transporters, suppliers of food and other necessities to the ‘resident’ teams.”

Meanwhile, in South Africa, elephant poaching incidents are also on the increase. During the 2022-2023 financial year, Kruger National Park lost 32 elephants to poaching, compared to nine elephants poached in the previous year. SANParks, however, reported that this poaching was “driven largely by bushmeat, rather than ivory, demand.” One elephant was also poached in Mapungubwe National Park, which borders Botswana and Zimbabwe.

* AG contacted Boswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks for comment but received no response.

Africa on foot – 11 top walking safaris

Africa, the untamed continent, beckons adventurers with its extraordinary wilderness spaces and unique wildlife. There are many ways to explore its wonders, but none is more immersive and intimate than what is offered on walking safaris. On foot, the sudden amplification of sound, smell, touch and adrenaline creates a profound sense of connection to nature that has been all but lost in our frenetic, modern lives.

Options for walking adventures when on an African safari vary. There’s something on offer for all adventurers: from a morning or afternoon stroll while staying at a lodge, to a fully fledged walking safari taking place over a few days, where you have the option to sleep out in basic tents. We’ve included various options below, covering the best of all there is on offer.

So, lace up a sturdy pair of walking shoes and prepare to ignite your wanderlust with our 11 favourite African walking safaris….

Check out our selection of walking safaris for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Often referred to as the home of walking safaris, Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is a playground for visitors seeking an authentic and unspoilt wilderness. Here, generations of expert guides have followed in the bootprints of Norman Carr to conserve the tradition of exceptional on-foot experiences. Stride over sandy riverbeds, navigate oxbow lakes and discover riverine forests, all the while observing the rich diversity of life (from dung beetles to elephants!) in Luangwa. Check out safaris in South Luangwa here.

Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe

Mana Pools National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most breathtaking protected areas, known for its picturesque Zambezi River floodplains, ethereal Ana tree groves and abundant wildlife. From habituated packs of African wild dogs (painted wolves) and towering elephant bulls to massive herds of thirst-driven buffalo and the lions that stalk them, Mana is a land designed to be explored up close and personal. It is also one of the few national parks where travellers can walk without a guide. Zimbabwe is also home to some of the best (and, in some cases, eccentric) walking guides in Africa, and securing their services is guaranteed to bring out the best in your African safari. Check out our ready-made safaris in Mana Pools here.

Alternatively, if you are looking for a truly wild walking experience, where you’ll camp in a remote spot with limited facilities, and have daily encounters with wild animals, then Chitake Springs offers just the ticket. Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools, away from the Zambezi River. The campsite, used for walking safaris, is based at the only available water source in this part of the park – a magnet for wildlife. Find out more about safaris to Chitake Springs here.

Enjoying an early morning coffee before the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs

Heading out for the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

Trekking for mountain gorillas is a walking safari of a very different kind – one that many have described as a profound and spiritual experience. The fern-fringed, muddy paths of the fairy-tale Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are verdant and bursting with secret sounds. While finding the gorilla families may take several hours of hiking, the reward at the end is the chance to go eye-to-eye with our endangered and sentient relatives. Observe their intricate social interactions, marvel at their human expressions, and be moved by the simple presence of these extraordinary creatures. Browse our ready-made safaris to Bwindi here.

Traverse Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas

Akagera National Park, Rwanda

Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s only Big 5 national park and, in recent years, has established itself as one of the premier African safari destinations. From papyrus-lined swamps to savannah woodlands, the park’s magnificent landscapes provide the perfect backdrop for superb wildlife sightings and birding. Check out our safaris to Akagera here.

Visit Africa’s largest protected wetland and explore Rwanda’s only Big-5 national park on a walking safari in Akagera

Okavango Delta, Botswana

The swampy oasis of the Okavango Delta in Botswana is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in Africa, which, by extension, makes it one of the best places to traverse on foot. Marvel at the Delta’s labyrinthine channels and vast floodplains as you tread softly through the wilderness in the company of the highly skilled guides who know the secrets of this waterlogged paradise. Your walking safari will likely also involve time in a mokoro – gliding silently along the water channels as your expert poler reveals this water wonderland to you. We have several ready-made safaris to the Okavango Delta – see more here.

Tread lightly through the Delta to experience incredible wildlife on foot

Tsavo East and West National Parks, Kenya

The rugged beauty of the vast Tsavo landscape is filled with the ancient magic of true wilderness, and walking here is akin to escaping to a bygone era. This is a land of legends, where many of Africa’s largest remaining tuskers roam, their thick skins shaded rust by the region’s famous red soils. From open savannahs and massive river systems to lava fields and woodlands, experienced guides will lead you in the search for giant elephants, maneless lions, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx and even critically endangered hirola antelope. See our ready-made safaris to Tsavo National Park here.

Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

The Serengeti is synonymous with Africa’s Great Wildebeest Migration – the Greatest Show on Earth. Still, few realise its vast plains can be explored on foot, granting unique privacy even in the busiest tourist months. Imagine embarking on a journey in the company of Maasai guides eager to share their intimate knowledge of their wilderness heritage. Witness the awe-inspiring landscapes, spot lions lazing under acacia trees, and feel the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras on one of Africa’s most immersive walking safaris. Peruse our safaris to the Serengeti here.

Just under 100km away, the diverse and wildlife-rich Ngorongoro Conservation Area also provides explorers an opportunity to walk in the largest unbroken caldera in the world, explore extinct volcanoes, and meet Maasai herders along the way

Walk across the vast Serengeti plains to get up close to the migration action

Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park is perhaps one of the country’s best-kept African safari secrets but for an ardent following of experienced travellers drawn to the park’s remote and rugged appeal. The iconic Chilojo Cliffs are perhaps Gonarezhou’s most famous feature. However, the ancient baobabs, thriving elephant herds and jaw-dropping vistas all contribute to securing the park as an exceptional walking safari destination.

Exploring Gonarezhou’s land of red cliffs and elephants on foot is an immersive experience

Laikipia County, Kenya

The mantra of the private conservancy experience in Kenya is one of exclusivity and freedom, and nowhere is this better epitomised than the mosaic landscapes of Laikipia County. Here, the low-density, high-quality approach allows travellers to customise their experience in a truly unique manner. Going on at least one walk is a given. Still, the full experience can even include accompanying ecological teams into the field to aid in monitoring endangered species, tracking lions, or even walking with baboon troops. With each step, you become a part of this remarkable landscape, forging a meaningful connection with the wilderness and creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Enjoy true freedom and experience conservation up close in Laikipia

Greater Kruger, South Africa

The private reserves bordering South Africa’s world-famous Kruger National Park offer the chance to leave the confines of a vehicle behind and set out on foot, led by experienced trackers and armed rangers. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents. Check out our safaris to Greater Kruger here.

A walking safari in Kruger takes adventurers deep into the middle of Big-5 country

Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia

In the desolate beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, embark on a unique walking safari that combines rugged landscapes with fascinating wildlife encounters. Traverse the vast dunes and arid plains, where desert-adapted elephants roam, lions hunt in the shifting sands, and seals frolic along the coastline. This untamed wilderness showcases the astonishing resilience of life in the most extreme of environments. Check out spots to stay in and around the Skeleton Coast here.

Explore the land of endless dunes, desert lions and arid plains on foot along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

And on that footnote

From the sweeping plains and savannahs to the remote reaches of the coastlines and dense forests, Africa’s walking safari destinations offer an intimate connection with nature that few other experiences can match. Whether you seek the thrill of encountering iconic wildlife, the tranquillity of walking through pristine landscapes, or the chance to recentre your soul, it’s time to open your senses to the wild beauty of Africa.

A rugged sleep out while on a walking safari in Akagera National Park

THIS WEEK

A wobbly newborn elephant calf is helped to its feet by its mother as it prepares to take its first steps. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Charl Stols. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant

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Black leopard pics + malaria-free safaris + finding lost species

Yesterday, I booked our flights to the biodiversity treasure trove that is the jungles of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville. This is a bucket-list trip for me – seeking western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles and huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons. I get all twitchy just thinking about it.

The cost and hassle of international travel got me considering why we all go on safari. African safaris are not just a voyage into the unknown; they are a call to action. They invite us to witness the intricate tapestry of life, urging us to protect it. In embracing nature’s raw beauty, there is a silent pact – a commitment to preserve habitats, respect ecosystems, and ensure the harmonious coexistence of every living creature. Your safari makes a difference at ground level for African conservation and local people living amongst wildlife.

Meanwhile, late last night, spotlight in hand, I escorted my two Jack Russels into the garden for their usual pre-snooze pee. The garden corner smelled strongly of fresh buttered popcorn – so I picked the lads up and took them back indoors. Do you know why I did this? The answer is in the footer of this newsletter*.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that a blind mole with super hearing, missing for 86 years and listed as one of the world’s Most Wanted Lost Species, has just been rediscovered along the western coast of South Africa?

It took the olfactory powers of a border collie, surveys of 300km of coastline and the novel use of environmental DNA sequencing to confirm that De Winton’s golden mole is not extinct. The mole almost never surfaces above ground, and “swims” through sand dunes in tunnels that are almost untraceable – except in rare cases when they surface to forage for insects at night.

By collecting 100 soil samples from underground tunnels and matching them to a lone museum specimen of the mole, teams from Endangered Wildlife Trust, Re:wild and the University of Pretoria confirmed the species. Since the discovery, four more populations of De Winton’s golden mole have been found. The discovery is an exciting step in the use of environmental DNA tracking – using the DNA shed from animals as they move through the environment – for finding lost species.

For a look into another rare and fascinating animal – a wild panther – check out Dan Peel’s story, with photos, on the incredible black leopard of Laikipia. And for those of you planning a January safari, be sure to use the helpful resource we’ve shared below, with all the tips you’ll need.

STORIES AND DISCUSSIONS

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-incredible-black-leopard-of-laikipia/
BLACK LEOPARD
Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. But Dan Peel has captured incredible photos of Laikipia’s black panther

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/travel/january-safari-predators-chimps-gorillas/
JANUARY SAFARI
Epic action + few tourists + low prices: January is calving season, and gorilla trekking is at its best. Here are our January safari tips

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a malaria-free Big 5 safari? We’ve got you covered. Check out two tantalising options below and get in touch with our travel experts to plan your safari

Art safari with Alison Nicholls – Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa – 8days – from ZAR61,100
Experience the bushveld while unlocking your creativity as you join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls on this art safari. Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in malaria-free Big 5 reserve, Madikwe, South Africa, will serve as your home base. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives, attend daytime art workshops, and hone your wildlife-sketching skills in the best setting possible. Artists of all levels are welcome!

Special Offer: Save 15% at Kariega Main Lodge, Eastern Cape, South Africa
Kariega Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, offers excellent game-viewing and birding experiences in its diverse ecosystems. Take advantage of this special offer and save on your stay in this Big 5, malaria-free destination. Book a minimum three-night stay in 2024, and you’ll enjoy 15% off your booking. Valid for bookings 1 May–31 July 2024. Ts&Cs apply.

Safari report back – Botswana mobile safari

Jane Allin went on a mobile safari with us to Botswana, visiting Moremi Game Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park. She also travelled to Kasane in Botswana, and to Hwange in Zimbabwe. Here’s what Jane had to say about her safari:

“Wow, what an incredible experience! A mobile safari is a great way to feel part of the environment and leave nothing but footprints. With no fences surrounding us, the animals were free to wander into our camp – which added extra excitement, especially when lions roared throughout the night VERY close to camp in Savute in Chobe. We had the best sightings I have ever had of leopards and wild dogs in Khwai. We also saw lions every day as well all as honey badgers, side-striped jackals, spotted hyenas and much more! Literally hundreds of elephants were the highlight in Chobe, many with tiny babies. The guides were great, the food excellent, the tents comfortable and camp was beautifully set up for us each evening.
We also spent two nights at Bakwena Lodge, Kasane – I cannot rate this place highly enough – and three nights at The Hide, Zimbabwe, which was truly spectacular!
This is the third trip I have done with AG and I highly recommend them. Every trip has been good value for money and impeccably organised. Thank you Christian. I will be back!”

Want to go on a mobile safari? Plan your safari with us here

WATCH: A rare sighting of Laikipia’s (Kenya) black leopard caught on film by Graham Boulnois. “We got glimpses of her as she approached. Suddenly she dove into a bush. There was a squeal and she emerged with a young dik-dik. Dik-diks are her favourite prey and she may take three each night.” (01:02) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

* Leopard scent marking smells like BUTTERED POPCORN *

The incredible black leopard of Laikipia

Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. A wild encounter that dreams are made of. But tales of this magnificent creature reverberate from a small, wild county in Kenya. Dan Peel has spent hours with this rare black panther in Laikipia. He shares his story – and incredible photos – of this famous leopard.

Gazing out over the expansive vistas of Laikipia, a profound sense of tranquillity washes over me. A sudden chill in the air brushes against my face, descending from the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya in the distance. The sun falls rapidly towards the horizon in this part of the world; the rocky ridge I am sitting on in Laikipia Conservancy, Kenya, is just under 100km north of the equator. It’s the onset of the golden hour, my favourite time of day. Not only because the light throws a beautiful golden hue over everything it touches, but in this specific region, it signifies the leopard hour.

I watch the colossal storm clouds gather over the western horizon, above the scar traversing Africa – the Great Rift Valley. Emerging from the river below, a herd of elephants don their “black socks”, showing me they have been wading through the chilly, brown waters of the Ewaso Narok River. The scene exudes quintessential African charm; my thoughts wander, and I am in my happy place.

Suddenly, a single nasal whistle pierces the stillness, jolting me back to full alertness. Peering down the valley beneath, I hear another whistle, the distinctive alarm call of the dik-dik, a small knee-high antelope that thrives in this region.

This is precisely what I’ve been waiting for – an alarm call, the most dependable way to locate leopards in Laikipia. Scanning the valley below, the river, the luggas (Swahili for gullies), and the dark rocky outcrops. Inspecting every bush meticulously, I strain my eyes until they water, momentarily lowering my binoculars before resuming my search. I’m determined to pinpoint the dik-diks responsible for the call and, hopefully, the reason for their distress. A quick movement catches my eye, a mysterious shift in the scenery I can’t see. My entire focus narrows onto the specific bush that drew my attention. I hold my gaze there, unable to identify anything unusual. But still, I wait; I have been sitting on this ridge all afternoon waiting for this exact moment. In an instant, the dik-dik alarms intensify. In this area, I know what that means. There is a leopard on the move. Now to find it.

The dark basalt rocks beneath the bush begin to move – a moving shadow. Immediately, the shape takes form. And there she is, as if she was never in hiding, strolling out of the trees into the open. The dik-diks redouble their efforts to let the world know there is danger lurking. But they are not even given a momentary glance.

Holding her tail high in the classic arch of a leopard at ease, she glides across the open ground down towards the river – pure grace and beauty held like a coiled spring of unfathomable power. There is no animal, in my opinion, that commands as much respect.

But this is no ordinary leopard; this is a black leopard. A rare genetic variety, this black leopard calls Laikipia home. In fact, Laikipia is home to the largest known population of black leopards. This is an animal that I had previously only ever dreamt about, a mythical creature that was beyond any chance of sighting.

This individual, I know well. This is Giza, the black leopard of Laikipia. I have been privileged enough to spend the last two years of my life following her, photographing her, watching and learning from her incredible journey from a playful cub into a lethal huntress.

My experience in the African bush started as a young boy growing up on a wildlife farm in Zimbabwe. I had always been fascinated by everything natural. But above all, leopards held my interest. Something about their enigmatic presence, piercing eyes, and ability to unleash unbelievable power or just as quickly slink into the bush without a trace.

Throughout my decade and a half of guiding, I had heard whispers of the existence of black leopards in Africa. Still, there was never enough to hold faith in – rumours of a fleeting glimpse or an unidentifiable blurry camera-trap photo. It was not until my career took me to Laikipia that these rumours became more credible. More than a myth, these were real animals, rare and elusive, but real.

A culmination of incredibly fortunate events led us to become acquainted with Giza Mrembo – which is the full name we at Laikipia Wilderness Camp gave her. Meaning ‘the beautiful darkness’ in Swahili, it is a name that she lived up to in the next two years we got to know her.

In early 2022, the drought had ravished this part of Kenya. Many plains game species moved large distances in search of even the smallest patch of grazing, or perished in their efforts. This mass devastation was hard to watch, but it did bring about a unique situation. In times like this, predators thrive – on a seemingly unlimited supply of meat – and their numbers grow. Amid this chaos, Giza’s mother, a regular golden spotty leopard, introduced us to her one-year-old cub, Giza. And so this incredible journey began.

A side profile portrait of Giza

When we first crossed paths with Giza, she was a young leopard, still heavily reliant on her mother. She and her mother had been feasting on one of the unfortunate casualties of the drought. My initial encounter with her was a mix of excitement and deep emotion, a feeling impossible to put into words adequately. I had dreamt of encountering such an animal since I was a young boy.

Initially, she allowed only a brief glimpse, but over time, she grew bolder. Taking cues from her mother, she appeared at ease in our presence.

Giza’s life has been difficult, marked by close bonds and formidable challenges. Following in her mother’s footsteps, she has evolved into a skilled huntress, albeit with a unique technique. Her jet-black coat, advantageous in dense forests, or under thick undergrowth or moonless nights, offers little camouflage in the rugged acacia shrubland of this African region.

Leopards are renowned masters of camouflage, but Giza has never been one to blend in; she seems to have never grasped the concept. Her hunting strategy revolves around covering as much ground as possible, relying on surprise rather than stealth. She moves swiftly from one bush to another, hoping to catch a dik-dik off guard and pounce before it can successfully escape. She has skillfully harnessed the dense population of dik-diks to her advantage.

The black leopard’s coat provides little camouflage in Laikipia’s landscape

With such an efficient hunting technique, her prowess did not go unnoticed. After numerous nights of observing this, the resident male leopard in the area figured out that he could secure a free meal nearly every night by following Giza. His size and strength left poor Giza no chance, and the persistent male became an increasing problem for her. Losing almost every kill she made dealt a devastating blow, causing her condition to deteriorate. As challenging as it was to witness, it was nature’s way, and I had to let it unfold.

After a few months of this struggle, Giza was visibly ailing. Her ribs and spine were showing. She devised a solution to her predicament as a tribute to her undeniable tenacity. She didn’t choose to challenge her male competitor because she couldn’t, or to abandon her territory in an area already teeming with leopards. Instead, her answer was to become an even more proficient hunter, and so she did. Almost overnight, she began killing two dik-diks each night, the first presented reluctantly as a peace offering to appease the male and the second to sustain herself.

The undeniable adaptability and resilience of Giza, the black leopard, is awe-inspiring. Beyond her breathtaking beauty, her presence and energy set her apart from any other leopard I have had the privilege of encountering.

Find out about Kenya for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you. Or start planning your safari to Laikipia with the help of our safari experts now.

Dan Peel is a professional safari guide. His book, Moving Shadows, offers a captivating collection of photographs capturing the story of ‘Giza Mrembo’, a black leopard of Laikipia.

Through a blend of vivid photographs and compelling narratives, the book follows Giza’s extraordinary evolution from a curious cub to a powerful huntress.

Amidst the harsh realities of the African wilderness, Giza learns to navigate her environment with skill and finesse, utilising the cover of darkness and moonless nights to her advantage.

You can follow Dan on Instagram here. Or, to purchase a copy of Moving Shadows, click here.

The Great Wildebeest Migration

The Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems see huge herds of wildebeest and zebras migrating in a continuous search for the best food and water. Although this journey follows a similar annual route, exact timing varies based on rainfall.

When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go. In spite of the big cats in waiting, or the rivers thick with crocodiles, they diligently follow their inner compass in a never-ending circular journey.

Wildebeest migration crossing river in Maasai Mara, Kenya — An epic river crossing of wildebeest takes place in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Tom Thomson

The Great Migration is the largest overland migration in the world, with wildlife travelling a total of 800 km or more during each cycle. The magnificence of the event lies in its magnitude. Between 1.5 to 2 million wildebeest, zebras and other species plod or canter across Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Maasai Mara in search of good grazing. And if you are lucky, you get to go along for the adventure.

The herds move in a clockwise direction, up from the south of the Serengeti, through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, the Loliondo Game Controlled Area, and the Grumeti Reserve. They then leave Tanzania briefly to spend time in the Maasai Mara in Kenya, which borders Serengeti National Park to the north, before heading back south to start the journey again. Most of the migration takes place in the far larger Serengeti than in the Maasai Mara.

Great Wildebeest Migration map — Map depicting the Great Wildebeest Migration

During the migration about 250,000 wildebeest and 30,000 zebra die every year as a result of predation by carnivores, drowning, thirst, hunger, and exhaustion.

And following the herds is another migratory species – human safari die-hards, who revel in the drama and magic of this, the Greatest Show on Earth. This is no cookie-cutter safari, as nature does not keep Swiss time, and even the well-documented river crossings are not predictable as to when and where. In fact, it’s the unpredictability that is the drawcard, and experienced travellers and guides know how to enjoy the many layers of bush life while waiting for the dramatic river crossings and predator action.

Follow the Wildebeest

Rainfall drives the event, so tracking the herds is not an exact science, but the same general pattern plays out each year.

JANUARY:
It is the first rains in the southern Serengeti plains that beckon the herds to the Ndutu area. If you want to find the wildebeest in January, Naabi Hill and Lobo are the places to look. Many females in the herd are heavily pregnant at this point and moving towards greener grasses is of top priority.

FEBRUARY:
Every year half a million wildebeest are born on the Serengeti plains, and February is the month with the highest birthing rate, sometimes seeing as many as 8,000 born each day.

The abundant new grass makes the area around Lake Masek and Lake Ndutu the ideal place for the wildebeest to give birth. The herd will stay put for a while in the southeast Ndutu area after the calves are born, before heading up north in a clockwise direction.

Calving season means adorable wobbly babies finding their legs – a bonus for predators, who do not play nicely. If you want to see a wildebeest just hours old, your best chance is to go out at midday when they typically give birth, to allow the babies the time to gain strength before nightfall.

The Serengeti also boasts a particularly healthy lion population, with over 3,000 lions in the reserve. This is of considerable significance when you realise that these big cats face a bleak future across the African continent.

Cheetahs take down wildebeest in Maasai Mara, Kenya — Cheetahs overwhelm a young wildebeest in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Paolo Torchio

MARCH:
The mobile camps in the Serengeti provide an up-close and personal experience of the migration. You can find the herds in the Ndutu and Kusini Maswa region, in the southwest of the park. Having the babies in tow means they move a bit slower. And be prepared for some afternoon rainfall in March.

APRIL:
If you visit in April, you are going to need your rain jacket. The herds amble from the Ndutu region, past the Simba kopje, in the direction of Moru. The herds have now split into large groups, rather than the massive concentrations that stretch as far as the horizon.
Simba kopje is where the lions are at, and it’s worth spending some time searching for lions. The wettest part of the day is the evening. The rainfall makes the plains slippery, and vehicles without 4×4 mode will battle to go anywhere.

MAY:
For those wildlife photographers looking for action shots, set your sights on May in the Serengeti. The ‘long rains’ keep on going throughout the month. And as the calves get bigger and stronger, the distances the herd covers get longer. You’ll most likely find them between Moru and Mokoma, moving towards Lake Magadi.

**Left:** *Wildebeest as far as the eye can see in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya* © Subi Sridharan; **Right:** *A group of hyenas take down a wildebeest during the migration in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya* © Karen Nienaber

JUNE:
By June the rains have abated somewhat, and the herds have spread out. The front-runners reach Mbalageti River around this time. While those bringing up the rear could still be as far back as Lake Magadi or in the southernmost corner of the Simiti and Nyamuma Hills. The herds are now often in long lines as they head north.

JULY:
July is mating season in the Serengeti. You can find the herds in the Grumeti Reserve, in the west of the Serengeti, and moving past Fort Ikoma. Crossings of the Grumeti River are worth hanging around for, but the Serengeti is vast and relatively under-developed with lodges, so river crossings are harder to find.
Also, the Grumeti River does not have the volume of water that the Mara River has, and the crossings are not as spectacular. The herds graze their way northward, as they move toward the Maasai Mara in Kenya. This is a transborder event.

AUGUST:
Come August and the herds have made their way up to the northern Serengeti, and face their biggest challenge yet: the Mara River. This fast-moving river flows through the Maasai Mara into the Serengeti. And while the gushing murky waters are captivating, they are also possibly responsible for the highest death toll en route, killing many thousands of wildebeest. Watch this dramatic video of a Mara River crossing.

Sometimes the herds plunge en masse off steep banks in their desperate attempts to get across the river, or after being spooked by lions, and the fall alone will kill many individuals. Others drown as they are crushed by the sheer volume of panicking wildebeest trying to scramble up the equally steep banks on the other side. Every death means dinner for crocodiles, birds and fish – such is nature’s bounty.

**Clockwise from top left:** 1) *Dust is kicked up as the wildebeest make their way across the Mara River in Kenya* © Paolo Torchio; 2) *The first leap!* © Subi Sridharan; 3) *Moment of chaos just before crossing the Mara River in Kenya* © Karen Nienaber; 4) *The river crossings are fraught with danger for the wildebeest* © Subi Sridharan

And amidst the panic, the dust and the noise, the big cats and hyenas pick off the stragglers and the injured. Be warned that aside from the massive herds, the river crossings also attract large volumes of tourists, who congregate at strategic points to witness this spectacle.

There is no class system here, as privately-guided wealthy couples in open Land Rovers jostle for the best views with budget back-packers crammed into mini-vans with pop-up roofs.

Two dead wildebeest in water with water monitor — A water monitor sits on a dead wildebeest in the Mara River after a migration crossing in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Gabriella Kiss

SEPTEMBER:
You can catch the tail end of the Mara River crossing or go see the herds out in the vast open plains of the Maasai Mara, where they are like flies in places. Pack your hat, because the weather will be hot and dry.

OCTOBER:
October offers a scene of casual grazing in the Maasai Mara. The push is over, and the fresh grass is the reward. For the survivors, that is.

NOVEMBER:
What is known as ‘the short rains’ begin in November, triggering another move, as the herds leave Kenya and south to western Loliondo and the Lobo area in Serengeti National Park. Whether it rains in November or not, is nature’s call. But pack some extra jerseys for the cooler weather. At this point, the herds organise themselves into smaller family groups and get on with the serious business of grazing.

DECEMBER:
By December the herds are back in the south of Serengeti, and the first act begins all over again.

A calm scene at sunset in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Subi Sridharan

River Crossings

When people say they’ve come to see the migration, they really mean they have come to see the river crossings. Watching the wildebeest hurl themselves into the water, one after the other, in a flurry of panic, sends a surge of adrenalin through the most seasoned bush-junkie. Watch this dramatic video of a Mara River crossing.

The river crossings are the scenes we’ve all watched on Planet Earth – the chaotic clamber of wildebeests, zebras and a few antelope species across turbulent crocodile-infested waters. And then, of course, you have the lions and leopards waiting amongst the riverine shrubs to ambush unsuspecting victims. For those of us with limited time and rudimentary camera equipment, it can be challenging to capture the full impact of thundering hooves, the frantic urgency to get to the other side and the drama of predations. Sometimes the best strategy is to put the camera down and simply watch and absorb the drama playing out in front of you.

Wildebeest crossing at river — Chaos reigns supreme at the dramatic river crossings © Panos Laskarakis

Avoiding the tourists

Avoiding tourists is somewhat of a sport in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, particularly during the peak safari season. If you are the tourist who skips the Eiffel Tower and seeks out that artisan cheese store in the back alleys of Paris, then perhaps give the Mara River crossings a miss.

The rainy season, from late March to late June, offers up a less crowded Serengeti, as the herds move into the western part of the park. The mass of animals moving across the plains is captivating, but what you are really on the lookout for is a hunt. And the open plains give you prime viewing.

Moving away from the herds and following a pride of lions has its own bittersweet rewards. The predators face struggles of their own out on the plains: defending their territories, protecting their cubs, and nursing the battle wounds from a particularly hard hunt.

Peak season crowds are a common site at river crossing points © Sudhir Hasamnis

Just because it is the rainy season doesn’t mean it will rain. And if it does, it might not be a continual downpour. Again, the whims of the wild.
As a bonus, catching the lodge off-season means less pricey accommodation.

Avoiding tourists is more of a challenge in the Mara, the reserve is smaller and as soon as the herds arrive, so do the crowds. The trick here is to stay in one of the private conservancies bordering the reserve. They are close enough to make day trips to see the herds doable, and it means fewer crowds back at camp. These private conservancies can offer activities not permitted in the parks, such as night drives and bush walks.

Top tips for witnessing the Migration:

Decide what you want to see the most because this will impact on the timing and location of your visit. Broadly, the choices are river crossings, massive herds as far as the eye can see or calving. You will enjoy predator action at all times;
Choose your lodge carefully because easy access to the herds is vital. You don’t want to spend hours getting to and from the best locations, eating the dust behind a long line of other vehicles;
If you seek privacy and exclusive wildlife encounters during the migration, choose a lodge in one of the conservancies neighbouring the parks. Alternatively, consider visiting during the ‘secret season’;

The Closing Curtain

If you think about it, the wildebeest is a rather understated animal, zoomed past on most safaris to get to something ‘more exciting’. It’s nice that there is a show that puts them on the centre stage. And, with a bit of planning ahead, the front row seats are yours.

Zebra and wildebeest in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Deborah Humphreys

TRAVEL WITH AFRICA GEOGRAPHIC

Maasai Mara and Serengeti safaris:
• Serengeti great migration safari (5 days)
• Maasai Mara Secret Season (6 days)
• Maasai Mara Migration Season Safari (7 days)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, NOELLE OOSTHUIZEN

Growing up watching Beverly and Dereck Joubert’s documentaries and idolising Jane Goodall, Noelle Oosthuizen has always dreamed of living in the bush. For now, she writes about her bush adventures from her home in Cape Town, South Africa. She has a particular soft spot for chacma baboons, and she advocates for these charming primates every chance she gets. By far her favourite adventure has been being a foster mom to an orphan baby baboon.