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Nyerere National Park – Selous rebranded

In today’s onslaught of media content, words like “unchanged” and “pristine” are bandied about with reckless and inaccurate abandon. Few of Africa’s remaining protected areas are either unchanged or pristine, and to describe them as such is to whitewash the stories of the continent’s resilience. In a time of tremendous change for the Selous Game Reserve, the declaration of Nyerere National Park will be an important chapter in the history of one of Africa’s greatest wilderness regions.

A new chapter?

In 2019, the now-deceased former president of Tanzania, John Magufuli, announced that the vast Selous Game Reserve would be split in two. The northern, southern, and western sides became the Nyerere National Park, while the eastern section remained the Selous Game Reserve. At 30,893 km2 (over three million hectares – more than twice the size of the Serengeti National Park), Nyerere National Park is the largest national park in East Africa. It protects a magnificent mosaic of Vachellia (Acacia) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests, features which once justified the Selous Game Reserve’s inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nyerere protects Vachellia (Acacia) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests

To the east, the park continues as the much-reduced Selous Game Reserve, which nevertheless encompasses some 20,155km2 (around two million hectares – the size of the Kruger National Park). Nyerere is also contiguous with Mikumi National Park in the northwestern corner, which, together with nearby Udzungwa National Park, helps to connect the greater Selous ecosystem to the Ruaha ecosystem in the west.

Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, including such tributaries as the Beho Beho and Ruaha Rivers. The Rufiji River – the largest in Tanzania – dominates the landscape, plunging through Stiegler’s Gorge and eventually fanning out into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes and swamps. At the height of the rainy season, it transforms into an angry torrent of brown water that changes the face of the landscape each year. In the dry season, it supplies a never-ending parade of thirsty creatures of every shape and size, drawn to the water’s edge and offered welcome shade by towering Borassus palms. Its waterways define the Nyerere/Selous experience, with game drives taking place along the banks and boat safaris across the interconnected lakes – offering a unique African safari option.

Nyerere
The Rufiji River valley from above
Africa Geographic Travel

What’s in a name?

Regarding photo tourism, Selous Game Reserve has typically been overshadowed by the northern Tanzanian safari circuit. In contrast to the latter, a Selous safari has always been considered a more rough and ready experience, better suited to experienced safari-goers with a taste for a rugged and authentic wilderness. The same principle applies to Nyerere National Park, though there are plans to increase the park’s tourism footprint. 

Even before the creation of Nyerere, photo tourism organisations and lodges have always predominated in the region north of the Rufiji River system. The rest of the Selous was divided into hunting blocks, but this arrangement will no longer apply to those areas now included within the national park. Under Tanzanian law, national parks are afforded the highest levels of legal control over human activity and habitation and are managed by the Tanzanian National Parks Authority, TANAPA. According to government statements, the intention is to improve the road networks and general accessibility of the park and increase the number of camps and lodges.

Nyerere protects significant populations of elephant
Africa Geographic Travel

The ‘Selous’ safari

There is no question that, as a safari destination, Nyerere National Park is brimming with untapped potential, but this is not to say that its pleasures are entirely unknown. Wildlife connoisseurs and Selous enthusiasts have long revelled in the opportunity to visit this forgotten corner of Africa, losing themselves to the sheer vastness of the wilderness. The scenic Rufiji River is always a highlight, but the hills, plains, dry riverbeds, marshes, forests and even the park’s hot spring ensure that every day is filled with variety and excitement. 


Find out about Tanzania for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.


 

Nyerere
Safari spotting in Nyerere

Unsurprisingly, such a vast area of diverse habitats would support an impressive array of fauna and flora. The park is home to the Big 5 (though sightings of its black rhinos are rare), protecting significant populations of elephant, buffalo and lion, as well as many leopards. (For more African safaris offering Big 5 experiences, click here). Cheetah, spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, eland, Coke’s hartebeest, waterbuck, and wildebeest are all present in healthy numbers in the park, and hippo and crocodiles are abundant in the permanent waterways. However, the region is most renowned for its substantial African wild dog (painted wolf) population, which may be one of the largest on the continent. Other rarities include large herds of sable antelope, puku and the delicate and shy suni.

Nyerere
The park is home to the Big 5, including leopard

Over 440 bird species have been recorded in the park, including a profusion of bee-eaters, a kaleidoscope of kingfishers, and a chatter of hornbills. Specials like the Udzungwa forest partridge, rufous-winged sunbird, Pel’s fishing owl and African skimmer are bound to enthral expert birders, and the plethora of great white pelicans, storks and herons occupying the lakes and rivers add delightful splashes of colour to an already picturesque scene.

Navigating Nyerere

In a place as vast and untamed as Nyerere, any visit should make the most of the opportunity to explore in every possible way. Indeed, game drives are an essential aspect of the experience. Yet one day spent in a vehicle could be followed by a morning’s boat safari and breakfast on a sandbar – surrounded by hippos and without another human being in sight. The terrain unequivocally lends itself to exploration on foot, in the company of an expert guide to expose and translate the natural marvels of the park. And for those looking for absolute immersion in nature, some lodges offer fly camping, with tents set up in the middle of the wilderness, with just a thin layer of canvas between their occupants and the creatures of the Nyerere night.

African safari in Nyerere
Nyerere’s dry riverbeds deliver epic sightings

Other attractions include the hot springs and the grave of Frederick Courteney Selous, the British explorer, officer, hunter and conservationist for whom the Selous Game Reserve was named. He was killed by a German sniper during World War I near the Beho Beho River.

Africa Geographic Travel

Explore & stay in Nyerere

No matter the changes wrought over the next few years, it is doubtful that Nyerere will see the same number of tourists that flock to the north of the country every year. Instead, the park will likely retain the old Selous feeling of authentic, low-density, high-quality safaris centred around appreciating the surrounding wilderness. And while the scenery may be rugged, there is no shortage of luxury and ultra-luxury accommodation options – meaning that adventurous days end in the comfort of traditional East African hospitality. From rustic and simple to lamplit luxury, there are choices to suit most budgets.

Nyerere
Nyerere’s accommodation offerings have something to meet most budgets

The dry season from June until October offers the best wildlife viewing, as the vegetation is less dense, and animals are drawn to the banks of the Rufiji River. Much of the park becomes inaccessible at the height of the rainy season from around March to May. Tanzania’s second dry season, from mid-December until March, is also a good time for visiting birders looking to catch the incoming migrant species (and take advantage of low season rates). 

Nyerere
Cruising the Rufiji River

An important adden‘dam’

Along its journey through the Selous to the Indian Ocean, the Rufiji River passes through Stiegler’s Gorge, once considered to be one of the main attractions in Selous, where the water plunges through a narrow ravine with walls 100 metres high. Here, former president Magufuli has commissioned the construction of Stiegler’s Gorge Hydropower Dam.

Despite the considerable outrage from environmentalists, construction began in 2020, and the dam is now apparently a fait accompli. Beset with challenges, the date of completion has been delayed to 2024. While the dam is set to cover just 2% of the Selous area, it will flood vital riverine forests and inevitably impact downstream habitats. Consequently, those wishing to experience the “old Selous” would be advised to book sooner rather than later.

Final thoughts on Nyerere

An ancient baobab stands sentinel on the plains below the Beho Beho Hills, squat and silent. Just over a hundred years ago, it would have witnessed World War I in Africa as bullets flew and nations clashed. Today, its presence serves as a poignant reminder that, while all things eventually pass, no wilderness is free from the scars of human folly. Nyerere National Park and Selous Game Reserve will soon be irrevocably changed, but the very essence of their wildness will endure. Elephants will still feed, dwarfed by towering palms, hippos will find their feet in new waterways, and fleet-footed wild dogs will bound across open plains. And adventurous souls will still find refuge in the raw and ancient beauty of ultimately untameable Nyerere.

Nyerere African safari
River-side walking safaris take travellers to the heart of the action

The boudoir of beetles – how this orchid sexually deceives its pollinator

OchidDeep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.


Disa forficaria is an orchid species identified from only nine plants from 11 records in the past 200 years and was considered extinct until one plant was rediscovered in 2016. Secondly, this orchid flowers only once every two years. Thirdly, only one flower opens at a time, and usually only if the sun is shining. Lastly, its pollinators’ activity is tightly linked to the midday hours. Nevertheless, after many visits to the lone specimen of Disa forficaria, biologist Callan Cohen struck lucky. One sunny day he found that one of the orchid’s intricate flowers was in full bloom, and he was taking photographs of this rare beauty when he saw what he thought was a wasp landing on the lip of the flower. He watched in amazement when the wasp-like insect started to copulate with the flower.

This looked like a case of sexual deception. The flower was attracting pollinators to its blooms by mimicking a female insect. But to prove this, further investigation was needed, and so Cohen assembled a team of scientists, each a specialist in either pollination, entomology, orchids or chemistry. They started to piece the remarkable puzzle together.

Africa Geographic Travel

The pollinator

The scientists established that the suspect was not a wasp but a wasp-mimicking endemic longhorn beetle, C. hessei, and so, after noting that the only insects that visited the orchid were individuals of the longhorn beetle, and only males, the scientists set out to discover what was attracting this beetle to this flower.

The flower

The flowers of the Disa forficaria don’t have any nectar or food rewards but instead sweeten the deal by providing a “boudoir” for the beetle-gentlemen. One could say that the flowers are “dressed up” to look and smell like female longhorn beetles. Orchid species generally have flowers with a modified median petal – the labellum – and, together with the two horizontal petals, the flower forms a landing platform for a visiting insect. The labellum of this particular orchid species is hairy and kidney-shaped and at its tip is a hairy cleft. At the other end of the lip are some narrow, hairy petals which curve backwards, have minute hairs, and resemble antennae.

The interaction between beetle and flower

So what is the motive for the beetle? The male longhorn beetle wants a female longhorn beetle. But the wool is pulled over the male longhorn beetle’s eyes. First, he gets the scent of a female beetle. He follows it, and on arriving at a flower of D. forficaria, he lands on the flower’s labellum and sees some fine, curved petal appendages. He begins to stroke these with his antennae and also even occasionally bites the petals (which is common mating behaviour described for other longhorn beetles). He then starts copulatory behaviour. The authors have even found beetle sperm in the petal’s cleft. So how does pollination occur?  The beetle is similar in length to the flower’s lip, and this means that it is perfectly positioned, whilst in the act of releasing its sperm, for the pollen packages attached to its thorax (gathered from previous foraging trips) to be deposited onto the orchid’s stigma. The authors observed that flowers that had been pollinated by the beetle later developed into fruit, thus showing the success of the pollination “event”.

orchid
The longhorn beetle attempting to copulate with the orchid. Photograph courtesy Callan Cohen and www.birdingafrica.com

The scent of a woman-beetle

But how did the beetle find his flower lover? The authors observed that the beetles used typical odour-tracking foraging movements, which was a clue to what attracted them: the scent. They then obtained an extract from the flower and, using complicated and intensive experimentation, identified the volatile compound in the floral extract which could be involved in the attraction. They called this compound ‘disalactone’ and proceeded to synthesise more of it. After establishing that longhorn beetle antennae reacted to puffs of this scent in the laboratory, they took this “beetle perfume” into the field to test it.

To determine whether the compound attracted the longhorn beetle, they set out an array of open glass vials, some containing the disalactone and others just acetone (to act as a control). They found that the jars of the disalactone attracted C. hessei longhorn beetles, all of which were male. The control jars did not attract any beetles.

In the meantime, as all this analysis and experimentation was happening in the laboratories, the original orchid plant in the field had sadly disappeared. But the scientists proceeded to do field experiments near the original orchid plant. This time they got creative and made model flowers consisting of dark beads on a dry reed, with ‘‘antennae’’ of plastic-coated wire and a small tuft of hair approximating the hairy lip of the flower at one end of the model. Some of the model flowers were treated with a droplet of disalactone in acetone, and the others with pure acetone (controls). Lo and behold, male C. hessei beetles were attracted to the disalactonen flowers and “frenetically” copulated with them too.

From this, the authors deduced that these orchids were luring the males to their flowers with a particular scent, most likely a scent closely simulating female longhorn beetle pheromones. The shape of the fake flowers was important, too, in eliciting copulatory behaviour. This behaviour promotes the transfer of pollen from the beetle to the flower’s stigma, thus facilitating effective pollination. The case was solved: this orchid was sexually deceiving male longhorn beetles! Sexual deception of bees and wasps by plants has often been observed, but deceiving beetles is a relatively rare and unique phenomenon in the plant kingdom.

Africa Geographic Travel

And more good news

The field experiment also yielded another exciting discovery. Some of the male beetles that visited their fake flowers were seen to be carrying pollen sacs. So the scientists took samples of the pollen and, using DNA analysis, the pollen was identified as belonging to the Disa forficaria species, meaning that, happily, there are still other D. forficaria plants in existence out there – somewhere. Indeed, we might even be able to find them if we can work out a way to use male longhorn beetles to survey for them. This type of surveying would be a world first!

The authors conclude that the orchid’s sexual deception might be the reason for the ongoing persistence of this orchid species, even at such low population sizes.  The fidelity of the male beetles to their female beetle-mimicking flowers might enhance the transfer of pollen, thus achieving high pollination rates and fruit set. Therefore, ensuring the survival of one of the rarest orchids in the world. The wiles of the wild are fascinating indeed.

Reference

Cohen, C. et al. (2021) “Sexual deception of a beetle pollinator through floral mimicry“. Current Biology 31, pp. 1962–1969

Further Reading

Scientists are warning of an insect apocalypse. Read more on the second silent spring here.

THIS WEEK

Members of the Kara Tribe, the smallest ethnic group of the Omo Valley, participate in the the Warsa festival celebration. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. Photographer of the Year 2021 entrant. © Zay Yar Lin

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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari

WOW! In one masterstroke African Parks has solved one particular rhino crisis, silenced the solution-bereft peanut gallery and proven yet again what a fine organisation they are. Yes, there will be challenges, but my goodness what a move! If you are not sure what I mean, scroll down. On that note, our exciting upcoming joint tourism project with African Parks to increase responsible international tourism to their parks – Ukuri – has one more hurdle to clear before we go live. The launch delays – related to regulatory matters – have been unfathomably frustrating. Both teams are chomping at the bit to get the show on the road. Stand by for more information 😉

As you read this I will be on safari in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. Tuli is one of the most under-rated safari destinations in Southern Africa. I was last there about ten years ago and look forward to meeting our talented winners and reacquainting with the Land of the Giants.

Meanwhile, in my hood the knobthorns are bedecked in golden canopies whose sweet perfume floats in and out of my day unannounced. Temperatures are rising and the bushveld is cork dry. The dry season will peak in a couple of months before the hoped-for short rains of October-November usher in the green season. Life is good!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

We celebrate every conservation victory that boosts the rhino population. In our first story below we mention that there are fewer than 13,000 southern white rhinos left. But did you know that Africa is also home to the world’s most endangered antelope – the hirola – whose population numbers pale in comparison to rhinos?

There are fewer than 400 hirolas left in the wild (and none in captivity) in the few areas they remain in Kenya, and possibly Somalia. Wiped out by rinderpest, civil war, and habitat loss, they have been dubbed a “refugee species” as they are restricted to less than 5% of their historical range. Those that remain owe their survival to a few local Kenyan communities who set up the Ishaqbini Hirola Conservancy, and to the Hirola Conservation Program. But predictions are there will be fewer than 20 hirolas left in the next 50 years. Food for thought.

Also check out our second story below, which delves into the state of elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation area – a population that represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants.


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/african-parks-purchases-john-hume-rhino-farm-pledges-to-rewild-2000-captive-bred-rhinos/
RHINO SALE
African Parks has purchased John Hume’s captive-rhino breeding operation, to rescue & rewild the rhino to protected areas

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kazas-elephant-survey-the-results-are-in/
KAZA’S ELEPHANTS
KAZA has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing that elephant populations within the region are stable


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

Fancy an affordable, privately guided safari that takes you to the birthplace of walking safaris – South Luangwa? Or a special offer, perfect for families, to an island in the Okavango Delta, Botswana? Get in touch now!

Affordable South Luangwa safari – 5 days – HIGH-SEASON SPECIAL OFFER – from US$2,650pps
The fantastic combo of walking and driving on this epic South Luangwa safari will appeal to experienced safari-goers and first-timers alike. Expect exceptional game viewing and tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Did we mention leopards?

Kids stay FREE at Delta Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Hidden in the forest of palm-studded Chief’s Island in the Okavango Delta, this camp is the perfect setting for a family safari. Book a family room for two adults, and two kids can stay free! Valid for bookings made up until the end of 2024. Now is your chance to introduce your kids to Africa!


South African safari: Cape Town & Timbavati

The McGrory family travelled with us to South Africa, visiting The Commodore Hotel in Cape Town, Umlani Bush Camp in Greater Kruger and more. They share their five-star safari experience:

“Christian (AG safari expert) organised a spectacular trip for us to South Africa on very short notice at a busy time of year. He did an amazing job of figuring out the best options for us. When our flight from the US was cancelled, he rearranged our days and managed to fit in almost all of the activities we had originally planned while minimising our stress.

Christian found safari lodges for us that were just the perfect vibe for our group, with an extremely knowledgeable guide who found us some unbelievable wildlife moments. In one safari lodge, we spent an afternoon by ourselves in a treehouse where we were extremely lucky to observe more than 30 elephants coming to drink at the waterhole. We managed to see leopards and wild dogs and even hyenas fighting over a dead buffalo after dark – and a lion kill as well. An absolutely unforgettable experience. We will be back!”

Do you want to visit South Africa? Check out our South African safaris here


WATCH: Not for the faint hearted: A few months ago, video footage emerging from Mossel Bay, South Africa confirmed that orcas are capable of pursuing, capturing and incapacitating great white sharks – behaviour never before witnessed in such detail. This footage confirmed that the practice of orcas killing great white sharks was spreading – a trend that has far-ranging consequences for the sharks and the marine ecosystem. (3:08). Click here to watch

African Parks purchases John Hume rhino farm – pledges to rewild 2,000 captive-bred rhinos

rhinos

African Parks has just purchased the world’s largest rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino – to rescue and rewild the 2,000 southern white rhinos that, up until now, faced an uncertain future.


African Parks announced it would rewild the rhino over the next ten years to well-managed, secure protected areas across Africa. By establishing new populations and supplementing strategic populations, this move will significantly boost the future prospects of the species.

Rhino breeder Hume, who has been on the verge of bankruptcy for the past few years, made headlines earlier this year when he once again placed Platinum Rhino up for auction. The auction received no bids, putting these rhinos at risk of poaching and fragmentation. The 7,800-hectare captive-breeding rhino project, operating in the North West province of South Africa, has reportedly been tallying up a cost of $9,800 a day – an amount that Hume could no longer afford to pay.

After being approached by concerned members of the conservation fraternity about the potential crisis that awaited these rhinos, African Parks conducted due diligence and secured funding for the transaction. With the support of the South African government, African Parks agreed to purchase the farm and its rhinos.

The 2,000 rhinos represent up to 15% of the world’s remaining wild southern white rhino population (at less than 13,000 individuals), which is currently under extreme pressure due to poaching.

African Parks has extensive experience managing protected areas and conducting large-scale wildlife translocations. Over the years, the conservation NGO has brought rhinos back to Rwanda, Malawi and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

rhinos
A southern white rhino cow and calf – two of the rhinos that will be rewilded within the next ten years

African Parks will phase out Platinum Rhino’s breeding programme, rewild the rhinos and bring the project to an end once all rewilding has occurred.

“African Parks had no intention of being the owner of a captive rhino breeding operation with 2,000 rhinos. However, we fully recognise the moral imperative of finding a solution for these animals so that they can once again play their integral role in fully functioning ecosystems,” said Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks.

The South African government pledged support for the cause. Barbara Creecy, South African Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment, said the government is “ready to support African Parks and other partners with technical and scientific advice in developing a conservation solution that includes translocating the animals over a period of time to suitable parks and community conservancies in South Africa and on the African continent.”

Further reading

Read more about the importance of private sector rhino conservation.

Read about the state of Africa’s rhino.

KAZA’s elephant survey – the results are in

Elephant KAZA - OkavangoThe Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.


The KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. KAZA’s elephant population represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants on the continent.

The survey reveals an estimated elephant population of 227,900 in the KAZA TFCA – an increase of 10,000 from the population estimate made by the 2016 IUCN African Elephant Status Report. However, distinctly high elephant carcass ratios in certain areas may indicate high elephant mortality rates, highlighting the need for more investigation.

The survey revealed that Botswana hosts the highest number of elephants, with 131,909 elephants estimated to be present in the country during the survey. Across the KAZA TFCA, 58% of the elephants were found to be in Botswana, 29% in Zimbabwe, 9% in Namibia, and the remaining 4% were found in Zambia and Angola combined. Zambia is the only country showing a decline in elephant populations, with an estimated population of 3,840.

Elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population – a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. “Several factors are likely contributing to the somewhat elevated mortality we’re observing,” said Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator. “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.” Habitat loss and associated human-elephant conflict and disease were also cited as possible reasons for high mortality rates.

Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses were identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks was informed of the high number of fresh carcasses seen during the survey, and an investigation into the cause of death is ongoing. Based on investigations, poaching has been ruled out, and the tusks on the carcasses were intact.

Elephant KAZA
Map of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, showing national parks and other protected areas. © KAZA TFCA Secretariat (2023)
Elephant KAZA
Estimated density of all elephants in the KAZA TFCA survey area during the 2022 survey. © KAZA TFCA Secretariat (2023)
Elephant KAZA
Estimated density of all elephant carcasses in the KAZA TFCA survey area during the 2022 survey. © KAZA TFCA Secretariat (2023)

The survey also produced estimates for other species populations, such as buffalo, giraffe, wildebeest, and zebra. The number of livestock herds reflected a ratio of wildlife to domestic stock that was almost equal, highlighting growing pressures on water and rangelands.

The survey’s insight into human and livestock population distribution in relation to wildlife showed growing fragmentation and isolation of wildlife habitat. This fragmentation due to encroachment of human and livestock activity affects the connectivity and mobility of wildlife populations, making the ecosystem “vulnerable to disturbances and less able to adapt to changing climatic conditions”, said the report. There was also a trend of elephants being absent from regions heavily populated by humans and livestock. The survey revealed notably high pressure in the central Zambezi region of Namibia. This region, covering the Kwando and Zambezi-Chobe Wildlife Dispersal Areas, is critical for wildlife movement and migration.

The distribution of elephants showed a higher density of elephants near permanent water sources such as the Okavango and Chobe-Linyanti-Kwando River systems, as well as in parts of northwestern Matabeleland (Zimbabwe), where artificial water supplies are widely available in Hwange National Park.

Okavango
Elephants in the Okavango Delta
Africa Geographic Travel

Given the large survey area, several aircraft needed to be deployed simultaneously, requiring careful coordination. The survey was flown from August to October 2022 during the dry season when elephants could be seen more easily. The survey involved reconnaissance flights, ground support from logistics teams and various observers. 310,865km2 were sampled over 700 hours of flights.  Using the CITES Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) programme Aerial Survey Standards, the survey ensured rigorous quality assurance metrics.

In a joint communique, ministers from the KAZA TFCA pledged to translate the survey’s findings into practical policy measures and supportive legislation to ensure the long-term persistence of wildlife in the region.

Further reading

Read about the KAZA elephant management plan here.

Wildlife corridors, such as those created by KAZA, offer paths of connection for wildlife. Read more about how these reduce the loss of life and livelihoods.

THIS WEEK

Rainbow over sun-kissed Victoria Falls. Choose your Victoria Falls safari here. © Zambian Ground Handlers

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Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari

Those of you that have been reading our stories for so many years will know that we focus on science and telling Africa’s stories from ground level. One way we do that is by decoding science – where we unpack peer-reviewed scientific findings and reword them so that you and I can understand and celebrate nature’s complexities and adaptive journey.

And there has been no-one better at doing this than Jamie Paterson, our scientific editor. Jamie, who is also studying to be a vet, has an eye for detail and a deep passion that goes way beyond anyone else I know. Her studies have reached that critical point where she will take a back seat from her teamAG duties. Her AG duties will be performed by others, but you will hear from Jamie now and then, just not as regularly. For example, she will continue to lead an annual safari to find and observe spotted felines and other predators. Thanks for sharing our journey so far Jamie, here’s to our ongoing friendship and your exciting future as a wildlife vet.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

“There is no time like Spring, when life’s alive in everything…” – Christina Rosetti

Today is Spring Day in Southern Africa, and after being frost-locked through winter, I could not be more relieved that hidden life is breaking through once again!

You will no doubt enjoy our two features this week, as they were penned by our dynamic Scientific Editor Jamie. And with Spring’s new beginning, we wish Jamie strength and good fortune on her new journey as she bids AG a subtle farewell.

Our first story below is the ultimate to-do list for Victoria Falls, which needs little by way of introduction. The perfect destination for adrenaline junkies, budget-conscious travellers, romancing couples and even for families, Vic Falls offers a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights. Check out our first story below to start planning your own adventure!

Our second story recognises the wonders of that graceful icon of the African safari: the kudu. As one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld and a picture of natural perfection in its own right, spotting a kudu is always a treat. Happy reading!


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/things-to-do-in-victoria-falls/
VIC FALLS
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kudu/
THE KUDU
Known for impressive spiral horns & doe-eyed, graceful countenance, the kudu is a fascinating antelope and an icon of the African safari


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

Our safari selections this week include a magic safari combo of Big 5 bushveld and beach life in Malawi, as well as a SUPER November special at an idyllic lodge in Zambia. Have a peak below and be inspired to book your next safari with us.

Malawi Big 5 bush & beach safari – 7 days / 6 nights – from US$3,170pps
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil shores. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations, and experience the conservation success that is Majete, as well as the white sand beaches and water activities of one of Africa’s most popular great lakes.

Last-minute special! SAVE 30% at Mfuwe Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
LAST MINUTE SPECIAL FOR NOVEMBER: Majestic elephants stroll through renowned Mfuwe Lodge on a regular basis. Mfuwe presents an impeccable setting to embrace the essence of life in Luangwa.


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

I have always loved this time of year, even living in the Highveld, where the cold has yet to lift. With its cheerful birdsong, luminous greens and bright blossoms, Spring for me comes with a sigh of relief.

But today is bittersweet because, as Simon and Taryn have intimated, the time has come for me to focus on my studies. And to do that, I need to step back from my permanent duties as part of teamAG.

Given the number of articles I have written (nearly 300, I counted!), it seems strange that words should be failing me now, but I am struggling to do justice to the extraordinary company that is Africa Geographic. And, of course, its team of dedicated professionals. I shall be forever grateful for having had the opportunity to work alongside such incredible individuals, driven as they are by passion and integrity.

Likewise, it has been a profound privilege to share some of Africa’s majesty – triumphs and tragedies alike – with our dedicated subscribers, followers and travellers. Thank you for sharing in my passion (and tolerating my occasionally peculiar sense of humour!).

Fortunately, as Simon explained, this is not a permanent farewell, and the ongoing friendship will ensure that I shall always be able to call Africa Geographic home.


THANK YOU

A big THANK YOU to all those who donated to help pangolin poaching victims during our three-month Save a Pangolin campaign. Your donations will continue to cover the expenses of treatment, medical equipment, and rehabilitation, to give these pangolins a second chance at spending a long life in the wild. We are happy to report that since May, four pangolins who received treatment from Provet have successfully been rehabbed and released back into the wild, while four are still undergoing treatment and rehabilitation.

Please continue to lend your support and donate to this important cause. Africa’s pangolins and the dedicated teams saving them still need YOUR help!

Please note all pangolins are housed off-site at a secure location for security purposes.


WATCH: Longing to see gorillas in the wild? Come on safari with Africa Geographic and make your travel dreams a reality. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:56). Click here to watch

Things to do in Victoria Falls

As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little by way of introduction. Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of water thundering down into gorges, mist-soaked vistas, verdant vegetation, and adventure. The lively towns of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are split down the middle by the Zambezi River at its most dramatic – the perfect escape for every traveller, from adrenaline junkies and budget-strapped students to families and romancing couples.

With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Have a look at our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list to inspire your next itinerary. Then, check out all the info you need for planning your Victoria Falls safari here (including our ready-made packages). And search for the best accommodation in Victoria Falls here.

Grab your camera and set out on a tour of mighty Victoria Falls

It should go without saying that the magnificent waterfall should be the first port of call for any visit to the region. Here the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a plateau nearly two kilometres wide before plunging into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. The tours through the forests and to the best viewing points are conducted in the morning and afternoon to showcase this spectacle of Africa in the best light. With shimmering rainbows, clouds of thick spray and the thundering power of the water, touring the Falls is an all-encompassing sensory extravaganza.

Victoria Falls
There are a number of excellent viewing platforms for experiencing Victoria Falls

Soak in the magic of the sunset on a Zambezi Dinner Cruise

Upstream of the Falls, the Zambezi River is gentle and serene, offering the perfect balm for the soul after an action-packed day. Decompress as the ripples of the river shimmer beneath one of Africa’s blazing sunsets and give way to the romance of the moment, replete with good food, fine drink and excellent company.

Enjoy delicious snacks and sundowners while listening for the cry of the fish eagle in the fading sunlight hours

Tour Livingstone Island, enjoy breakfast or high tea and take a dip in Devil’s Pool

Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls (though one must imagine the noise might have tipped him off beforehand) and is positioned at the very edge of the Falls. Follow in David’s footsteps to the island in the company of experienced guides before sitting down to a hearty breakfast or high tea. Thrill-seekers can also swim into a rock pool (Devil’s Pool) and perch with elbows dangling out over the drop below!

It is important to note that this activity is only offered during the low-water months from August to January and can only be accessed from the Zambian side of Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls
Take a dip in hair-raising Devil’s Pool
Africa Geographic Travel

Spot the Big 5 on a game drive

Zambezi National Park (Zimbabwe), Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia) and Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve (Zimbabwe) all provide exceptional opportunities to encounter the Big 5, along with a variety of other species. Climb aboard an open four-wheel drive vehicle and see if you can spot one of the region’s elusive black rhinos!

Victoria Falls
Spot the Big Five in one of the protected areas near the Falls

Take in the fascinating story of Victoria Falls on the Historical Bridge Tour

Transport yourself back in time to when Cecil John Rhodes envisioned a railway running from Cape to Cairo and the geographical impediments blocking its path. Descend onto the catwalks below the Victoria Falls Bridge and consider the feats of engineering involved in its construction at the very start of the 20th century. The tongue-in-cheek guides will provide a light-hearted but detailed history of this remarkable structure.

Victoria Falls
The historical Victoria Falls Bridge

Adventure to nearby Chobe National Park for the day

Botswana’s Chobe National Park is a name imbued with the spirit of safari legend – a land of dramatic wildlife viewing and hundreds upon hundreds of elephants. Set out on a short drive from the Falls to the nearest border post, where a Botswana guide will collect you for the day’s activities. Enjoy a morning boat cruise on the lazy Chobe River, admiring the wildlife on the floodplains before enjoying lunch and an afternoon game drive.

Enjoy sundowners on the Chobe River

Plunge through the rapids of some of the best white water rafting in the world

The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V, and nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of the water, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket. The mighty river will propel you through a thrilling series of twists, turns, and heart-stopping drops, interspersed with stretches of calm where you can catch your breath and soak in the beauty of the towering gorges and verdant surrounds.

White water rafting is only guaranteed in August and September, though the season may vary depending on water levels.

Victoria Falls
Experience world-class white water rafting below the Falls

Immerse yourself in a gourmet experience at the Dusty Road Township Dining Experience

Situated deep in the heart of the bustling Chinotimba township, not far from Victoria Falls town centre, Dusty Road offers a vibrant dining experience unlike any other. Amidst rustic tables and flickering lanterns, indulge your tastebuds with a tantalizing array of flavours crafted from locally sourced ingredients.

Victoria Falls
Enjoy the tasty delights of the Dusty Road Township Experience

Chase that adrenaline rush on the flying fox/gorge swing/zipline/bungee jump

Victoria Falls is considered Africa’s adventure capital and is overflowing (literally?) with electrifying activities for thrill-seekers. The bungee jump off the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the world’s highest jumps. The gorge swing will pendulum you out over Batoka Gorge in an exhilarating zero-gravity experience. Intrepid travellers on the zipline (foefie slide) will reach speeds of over 100km/hr over the gorge, while those looking for a more sedate (but still vertigo-inducing) approach can opt for the flying fox.

Victoria Falls
The Gorge Swing is only for the brave

Embark on a journey through time (and enjoy a scrumptious meal) on the Steam Train

Climb aboard the luxury steam train at Victoria Falls station and let it transport you to a bygone era of splendour. The train will stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge just in time to watch the sunset in one of the most magical spots in Africa. Then it is time to sit down to a gourmet dinner as the train chuffs its way through the bushveld.

Victoria Falls
Experience the elegance of a steam train dinner
Africa Geographic Travel

Take to the skies and admire the scenery of Victoria Falls from above on the ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter trip

David Livingstone was so taken with the beauty of the Falls that he famously suggested that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, so how better to appreciate them than from the sky? The helicopters have cleverly designed bubble-shaped windows to enjoy the panoramic views over the falls and surrounds.

Victoria Falls
Enjoy a flip to experience an epic view of Victoria Falls

Keep on track on a Bicycle Tour along the Zambezi River

Cycle along the Batoka Gorge, stopping every now and again to take in the breath-taking views before encountering the world-famous Big Tree (a massive baobab believed to be 3,500 years old) and cycle across the Victoria Falls Bridge, all in the company of an expert guide.

Dine out on the world-famous experience at The Boma

The Boma restaurant is about more than ordering dinner; it is a complete Zimbabwean cultural experience. Join the hand-washing ceremony before sampling the traditional beer to whet the appetite before dinner. During the varied meal of everything from venison to mopane worms, Tsonga dancers, storytellers and entertainers will hold the floor. Then take to the dance floor and show off your newly-mastered dance moves!

Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma
Africa Geographic Travel

Saddle up and canter out into the wilderness on horseback (all experience levels are catered for!)

Exploring the wilderness on horseback is a unique experience, not least because the wild animals do not perceive the horses as a threat, allowing for unusually close encounters with otherwise shy ungulates such as kudu or impala. Spend the day tracking elephants and buffaloes in the deep shade of the Zambezi River’s riverine forests and perhaps even stop for a brief siesta during the day’s hottest hours.

Victoria Falls
Horse ride through this beautiful corner of Africa

Clip on a harness and swing out on a Canopy Tour

With a network of nine slides over the gorges, trails and a ropeway bridge through the hardwood forests, the Victoria Falls canopy tour offers some of the area’s best views. Furthermore, this experience is open to adventure-seekers of all ages, including families and groups.

Victoria Falls
Ziplining provides a whole new perspective on the Falls

Go curio and craft shopping and find the perfect souvenir from the perfect Victoria Falls holiday

Enthusiastic shoppers will find their senses overwhelmed on this daily tour of open-air markets, crochet halls, galleries and boutique stores selling handcrafted works of art. Admire the stone sculptures, wooden carvings, textiles, jewellery and crochet lovingly created by local artisans and pick out gifts for loved ones back home.

There are so many curios to choose from when shopping in and around Victoria Falls

Now that you are armed with our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, it’s time to start planning your holiday! Contact our travel experts to explore one of the world’s most incredible natural marvels.

Kudu

If cliches are to be believed, then beauty is in the eye of the beholder – a subjective standard upon which there can be no universal agreement. Yet of Africa’s over 70 antelope species, there can be no question that some are more bewitching than others. There are the stately eland and the glamorous sable, the burnished nyala and the beguiling impala. And then there is the kudu, the doe-eyed epitome of grace and elegance, all slender legs and eyes and a magnificent set of horns.

There are no beauty competitions in the wilderness (thank goodness), but if there were, the kudu would unequivocally be a shoo-in for one of the top spots.

Kudu

All about the kudus (kudos?)

There are two species of kudu – the greater kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) and the lesser kudu (Tragelaphus imberbis). Though humans could probably have done a better job with the common names (“lesser” is a bit pejorative, is it not?), the monikers accurately capture the size difference between the two. The greater kudu – an icon of the African safari – is substantially taller and heavier than its comparatively petite cousin. Lesser kudu also have a smaller distribution and are found only in East Africa, with a preference for semi-arid habitats. Greater kudu occur more widely across much of the continent, including most of southern and East Africa and just south of the Sahel in Central Africa.

Size aside, the morphological differences between the two species are subtle. The males are similarly equipped with an impressive pair of spiralling horns (more on these below), and sexual dimorphism is pronounced. Both species are decorated with a strip of white on the back, which bleeds into a delicate pattern of stripes running down the flank like dripping paint. White chevrons run from the inside of the eyes, contrasting against the rufous coat. Male greater kudu have a well-developed ridge of hair that runs down the length of the neck like an upside-down mohawk. This feature is absent in the lesser kudu, which instead has a striking set of black and white bands.

Both species are cryptic antelope with a preference for dense vegetation. They are not fast and rely instead on their agility and spectacular jumping prowess to escape potential predators, jinking and jiving through the trees when pursued. Kudu are relatively strict browsers (though greater kudu have been observed grazing) and can survive for long periods without drinking, supplementing their water intake with succulents and fruits.

Kudu
Kudu can effortlessly leap two and a half metres into the air
Africa Geographic Travel

Quick facts about the kudu

Greater kudu Lesser kudu
Av. Height (shoulder) M: 135-160cm
F: 121 cm
M: 95-105 cm
F: 90-100 cm
Av. Mass M: 190-270kg
F: 120-210 kg
M: 90-108 kg
F: 56-70 kg
Gestation period 240 days (8 months) Between 7 and 8 months
IUCN Red List Least Concern Near Threatened

To a greater or lesser extent

It is no secret that our understanding of antelope phylogeny is not dissimilar to a tangled ball of wool at present – based on physical similarities and occasionally inaccurate assumptions. Scientists are using genetic tools to disentangle the mess and have made considerable strides towards understanding evolutionary relationships. However, a great deal of work is still to be done. Kudu belong to the Tragelaphini – the spiral-horned antelope tribe, which includes nine different species in two genera (for now). Thus, they are related to eland, nyala, bushbuck, sitatunga and the bongo. The closest relatives to this tribe are bovines, such as buffalos, bison, and wild cattle.

The natural assumption would be that the greater and lesser kudu would be more closely related to each other than any other member of the Tragelaphini tribe, but, fascinatingly, this does not seem to be the case. A comprehensive analysis conducted in 2005 of mitochondrial DNA suggested that the lesser kudu is the basal member of the tribe. Even more confusingly, later research on nuclear DNA indicated that lesser kudu and nyala separated from the rest of the Tragelaphini at least 13 million years ago. Either way that means that, bizarrely, the lesser kudu is more closely related to the nyala, and the greater kudu is more closely related to the mountain nyala. The distance between the lesser kudu and the rest of the Tragelaphini tribe has even prompted some scientists to argue that it represents an entirely different genus – the Ammelaphus.

As if the hairs could not be split any finer, next comes the subspecies question. There are currently three commonly accepted subspecies of greater kudu:

  • s. strepsiceros – occurs over much of southern Africa
  • s. chora – found in northeastern Africa, in northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Sudan
  • s. cottoni –  found in scattered populations in Chad and western Sudan

None of these subspecies has yet been recognised on the IUCN Red List. Some biologists have even proposed splitting the greater kudu into four different species (!) based on genetic evidence and morphological differences. But we may have to cross that bridge when it becomes more widely accepted…

Kudu
Greater kudu (left) and lesser kudu (right)
Africa Geographic Travel

Spiralling out

At this juncture, moving swiftly along from the minutiae of kudu taxonomy to some of their more apparent features seems appropriate. Naturally, the impressive spiral horns of the bulls tend to leave a lasting impression on first-time visitors to Africa, making them a delightful spot on any safari. (Check out these safaris where you can spot kudu and more). In greater kudu, these bony protuberances can achieve two and a half or even three full twists and, if straightened, would reach over a metre in length. Record-breaking specimens have been measured at over 180cm.

Kudu
Male kudus darken with age, and the rufous coat becomes greyer in colour

The bulls use these horns primarily as an intimidation tactic. Kudu are gregarious and not territorial, but competition may arise over a female in oestrus (receptive to mating). However, actual physical confrontations are rare, and the larger, more dominant bull usually frightens away potential competitors by displaying his full size. Evenly matched contenders may clash horns, sometimes with fatal consequences. Though such reports are sporadic, kudu bulls have been known to tangle their twisting horns so severely that they find themselves locked together and may eventually die of dehydration, a broken neck or predation.

Like the stag of Aesop’s Fables, these magnificent horns have disadvantages, especially for an animal that usually runs through dense vegetation to escape predators. When fleeing, the bulls occasionally stretch their heads forward and tilt the horns flat along their necks, making navigation challenging. (There is a common old guide’s tale that they can roll their eyes back and look back at the pursuing predator through the hollow horn – it should not need to be clarified that this is physically impossible. The horn is solid bone.) It does not, however, seem to hinder them unduly!

Kudu
Kudu bulls may clash horns over females in oestrus
Africa Geographic Travel

The sense and sensibility of the kudu

The enormous satellite-dish ears of the kudu are another notable feature contributing to their other-worldly, innocent beauty. Fairly obviously, these exaggerated auricles are essential in catching and amplifying sound waves, conferring an exceptional sense of hearing. The kudu’s excellent aural faculties and equally acute eyesight make them one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld. When a kudu spots a potential predator, it lets loose an astonishingly loud alarm bark that can travel several kilometres on a cold morning. Many a desperate guide following this booming sound has found themselves well rewarded with a leopard or lion sighting courtesy of a vigilant kudu.

leopard
Kudus let out loud alarm barks when alerted to the presence of predators

Even without the bonus of a big cat, any aesthete should appreciate the opportunity to feast their eyes upon the picture of natural perfection that is the kudu. They are shy animals and not always confiding around vehicles full of loud, gawking onlookers, but most will allow for a brief sighting if approached carefully. Kudu-seekers will generally find greater kudus without difficulty on most popular safari tracks. Lesser kudus can be a bit more tricky, but the arid areas of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania are an excellent place to start.

Want to see greater and lesser kudu in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your kudu-seeking safari – details below this story.

THIS WEEK

A black-backed jackal snatches a ring-necked dove from a lanner falcon, catching its talons along with it. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. Photographer of the Year 2020 entry. © Rian van Schalkwyk

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Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari

Hopefully you read our exposé on trophy hunting in Botswana’s NG13 a few weeks ago. Well, the plot thickens.

After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured in our exposé. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US$100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. One wonders why he would do that. No wonder the trophy hunter’s gross profit we reported is so obscenely high!

The discussions in our app reveal a few pro-hunters attempting to whitewash this situation. One gent accused me/AG of a “hit job on the hunting industry ameteurshly (sic) disguised as a social injustice crusade“. The argument put forward by another is that this is the only alternative to no revenue at all. My my, what low standards the trophy hunting industry demands we all accept.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic


From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Every species has a part to play in its ecosystem. Hyenas, though often mistaken for the underdog, keep natural checks and balances in place between dead matter, plant life, prey and predators. So when an important ecosystem engineer like the hyena is absent, a tipping point looms. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique has released five hyenas into its system to recalibrate the balance – scoring a rewilding win for southern Africa. Read more in our first story.

And from one fearsome predator to the next: In our second story, we honour one of Africa’s most ferocious and courageous fighters: the dwarf mongoose. With razor-sharp claws and sharp teeth juxtaposed with an otherwise adorable fluffy exterior, the dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator. Read more to see what we love about these enigmatic little creatures.

Happy celebrating Africa!


Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/hyena-royalty-returns-to-maputo-national-park/
MAPUTO’S HYENAS
Five spotted hyena have been released into Maputo National Park as part of a rewilding journey for this biodiversity hotspot

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/dwarf-mongoose/
DWARF MONGOOSE
The dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator, & are fascinating to see on safari


Travel desk TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 

Let us take you on an adventure to experience all Namibia has to offer or go in search of the Big 5 in Greater Kruger. Let us make your safari wishes a reality:

Namibia safari – Sossusvlei to Etosha – 13 days/12nights from N$112,000pps (Namibian Dollars)
Explore the best of Namibia, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the wildlife of Etosha, to the adventure of Walvis Bay. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity.

Save 14% at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, Greater Kruger, South Africa
Experience the Big 5 of Greater Kruger, South Africa and take advantage of this three-night fly-in package for R97,220pps. This includes Johannesburg-Sabi Sabi return flights. Get in touch and let’s start planning your African safari.


From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

What does it take to keep a wild rhino alive in South Africa? There is no short or easy answer to that question. There may not even be a right one. The custodians of our beloved tubby grey icons have been thrust into an ever-changing war without rules, forced to trial and evaluate different strategies as they go along.

What we do know is that it takes money – lots of it. Did you know that in the Greater Kruger (including Kruger National Park), a minimum of ZAR 1.1 billion (US$ 61 million) was spent protecting rhino from 2017-2021? This figure was taken from a brand-new report: “Evaluating the cost and effectiveness of rhino conservation interventions in the Greater Kruger”.

Compiled by a cross-disciplinary team of scientists and reserve managers, the 17-page report delves into the successes and failures of various interventions, including camera technologies, K9 units, dehorning and so on. This monumental project is of profound importance and offers an eye-opening glimpse into the complexities of rhino conservation. It is well worth a read!


Wonderful safari experience to South Africa & Zimbabwe

The Siskind family had a wonderful experience travelling with us to Pungwe Safari Camp in Greater Kruger, South Africa and to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge bordering Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. They had spectacular wildlife encounters in both countries and also had multiple wild dog sightings. Their plains game and elephant sightings were just as plentiful. Michael Siskind shares feedback on the experience:

Africa Geographic was able to tailor our trip to what we wanted: a small unpretentious bush camp in the greater Kruger, where wildlife sightings are perhaps easier to come by, coupled with the wilderness experience of the far more remote Gonarezhou. AG succeeded on all accounts. Our week in Gonarezhou was essentially our own private expedition into the park. Due to the logistics of the trip, its success was dependent on the smooth functioning of multiple transfers, both vehicle and plane. The trip was very well organised and all transfers took place without a hitch. We look forward to planning another trip with AG!


WATCH: Watch as two of Africa’s biggest and heaviest animals go head to head in a very rarely seen sighting. The hippo is trying his luck with the rhinos, but the rhinos are having none of it (2:44). Click here to watch

Dwarf mongoose

Fearsome predators are stalking the savannahs of Africa. With pointed, gleaming teeth and razor-sharp claws, they roam in packs and instil fear into the heart of their prey. They are ferocious fighters, capable of taking on deadly enemies through lightning-fast reflexes and almost reckless courage. They are dwarf mongoose, and each one is roughly the size and weight of a soda can.

Dwarf mongoose

Pint-sized predators

Africa’s smallest mammalian predator – the dwarf mongoose (Helogale species) – is an animal that is remarkably easy to anthropomorphise. Something in their beady, shining eyes speaks to considerable intelligence and personality, wrapped in an adorable, fluffy package. They are found from Ethiopia and Somalia to the northeastern corner of South Africa. Dwarf mongoose are a common sight on safari, though often dismissed in favour of the bigger and “more exciting” animals (to find the ideal African safari and spot dwarf mongooses in the wild, click here). Yet a bit of patience guarantees a rewarding sighting in their charming company.

Dwarf mongooses belong to the Herpestidae family, comprising over thirty mongoose species (including suricates/meerkats) spread across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of dwarf mongoose: the common dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula) and the overlapping Ethiopian dwarf mongoose (Helogale hirtula). Though mongooses are famously charismatic animals, a considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality. Like the banded mongoose and meerkat, dwarf mongoose live, reproduce and forage in cooperative groups.

These groups number between three to thirty individuals, where everything from territorial defence to raising pups is a team affair. A consequence of this collective approach to life is a complex social structure and hierarchy governed by fascinating community rules and peppered with surprising nuances.

Dwarf mongoose
Dwarf mongoose operate in cooperative groups with complex social structures

Quick dwarf mongoose facts

Length 18-30cm
Mass 210-350 grams
Social structure Groups of up to thirty
Gestation 49-53 days
IUCN Red List classification Least Concern

Dwarf mongoose: tiny terrors of the bush

During the day, dwarf mongoose move through the vegetation in search of predominantly insect prey (but will also feed on reptiles, small mammals and birds). However, standing just a few centimetres off the ground makes it almost impossible to maintain visual contact, and thus vocal communication is of tremendous importance in dwarf mongoose societies. They chatter almost constantly to each other via a series of contact squeaks. Threats are communicated through a multitude of alarm calls, which convey not only the type of threat (bird, snake, and so on) but also the urgency. Some calls will make the entire group stop and look around, while others will send them scurrying for the nearest cover.

Fierce though the little animals may be, they are still on the menu for various birds of prey, mammalian predators and snakes. Like most members of the mongoose family, dwarf mongoose have some innate resistance to snake venom, but contrary to popular belief, this does not confer complete immunity.

Dwarf mongoose
They may be Africa’s smallest mammalian predator, but dwarf mongoose are incredibly fierce

Miniature monarchs

A dominant pair lead dwarf-mongoose groups, usually consisting of the oldest male and female. These pocket-sized patricians are the only ones guaranteed to reproduce, while the rest of the group (composed of related and unrelated individuals) focuses on protecting the pups each season. This can entail everything from babysitting and guarding the den to providing food and teaching the pups valuable hunting skills. Like meerkats, some subordinate females (around 12%) mate and fall pregnant, but these offspring are usually either aborted or killed by the dominant female. The reproductive cycles of all group females are highly synchronised, meaning that they enter oestrus within days of each other. Consequently, subordinate females may further contribute by lactating and suckling the dominant pair’s pups.

Naturally, the drive to reproduce is a biological imperative. So, subordinate mongooses are left with two options: wait their turn for a shot at the top position or disperse and find another group with better prospects. In dwarf mongooses, both males and females disperse, though males are more likely to do so.

Dwarf mongoose
A dwarf mongoose relaxes in the sand in the Okavango Delta

Playful pups, hungry hornbills (and viral videos)

Pups are born during the rainy season when insect prey is abundant and prosperous groups may raise several successive litters of four to six pups yearly. The minuscule pups are born into a dangerous world, and even the relative security of their termite mound dens does not guarantee their safety. Snakes represent a constant threat to young babies, so den-bound young are left with babysitters. At the same time, the rest of the group forages. If a snake is spotted, these babysitters will sound the alarm and even mob and distract the offending reptile while the pups are transported to safety.

Den-bound pups are left with babysitters

When the pups emerge from the den, their world is filled with things to explore and lessons to learn. With the energy intrinsic to the young of all mammals, they immediately engage in nibbling, wrestling, begging for food and, hilariously, scent-marking. The latter is particularly entertaining because dwarf mongoose have scent glands positioned under the tail, and the secretions are deposited as high above the ground as possible (conveniently at nose level for the receiver). Given their rather stubby legs, this contortion involves a handstand accompanied by an impressive wiggle. For uncoordinated, growing pups, it is a movement that is particularly difficult to master.

Another important lesson for dwarf mongoose pups is good relations with their neighbours. Dwarf mongooses have a particularly fascinating mutualistic relationship with hornbills. The hornbills can scoop up the insects disturbed by the foraging mongooses while providing additional security through watchful eyes at a higher vantage point. This association is so beneficial to both parties that they will await the arrival of the other before setting out for the day. However, in one now-viral incident, a baby mongoose was recorded inviting the hornbill to play with it by “pretending to be dead“.

Africa Geographic Travel

Sentinels, signals, and snubbing

In addition to pup rearing, dwarf mongoose engage in several other cooperative behaviours, including acting as sentinels and allogrooming. Through observing these behaviours, scientists have gleaned a wealth of information about the subtleties of dwarf mongoose ethology. For example, serving as the group’s lookout is a particularly revealing behaviour as it comes at some cost to the individual in the form of lost foraging and feeding opportunities. It also requires considerable trust because, although the rest of the group remains alert, a dozy sentry could spell death from above or below. Research has shown that new arrivals (immigrants) are considered less “trustworthy” as sentinels for up to five months until they have earned the group’s trust. Conversely, the male and female of the dominant pair appear to be regarded as the most reliable sentinels.

Sentinels are rewarded with allogrooming for their time served

Though acting sentinel may seem a burdensome task, experts have also found it well-rewarded come sunset. Just before they retreat below ground for the night, the group members gather together at the entrance of their chosen burrow and set about grooming each other. Allogrooming reinforces the bonds between group members and helps to reduce anxiety levels. Animals that acted as sentinel each day were rewarded with this affirming grooming during these socialisation periods, suggesting that dwarf mongoose are not only aware of which individuals are putting in the work but capable of retaining that information throughout the day. Even more astounding, troublemakers that instigate aggressive encounters are also noted with disdain and “punished” at the end of the day with less attention. In other words, bullies are essentially snubbed by the rest of the group!

A considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality
Africa Geographic Travel

Final thoughts on dwarf mongoose

A dwarf mongoose sighting is usually first announced by a streak of brown fur flashing across the track. But sit tight, and you will hear the chirrups of the rest of the group as they regroup. With patience, their natural curiosity generally wins out, and little heads will emerge to investigate the situation with bright eyes. While lions and elephants are always exciting finds, it is always worth remembering that Africa’s little animals can be just as enthralling.

 

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