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Zambia's hidden gems - part 1

by

Izak Smit

Thursday, 19 September 2024

There is a hidden gem in Africa, that quietly beckons wildlife enthusiasts searching for an experience out of the ordinary. Busanga Plains, a vast mosaic of grassy plains, transforms after the annual rains – into floodplains dotted with papyrus and lilies. The lush grazing lands that erupt after quenching the ground of Kafue NP’s Busanga Plains attract diverse antelope species and large lion prides, delighting the travellers who have learnt of this secret. Izak Smit and Inki Mandt, fortunate travellers who know this Zambian jewel well, embarked on a safari to celebrate the wildlife of this lush destination. Izak tells us of their journey in the first of a two-part travel diary.

A visit to the Busanga Plains – while not our first sojourn to this wonderland, which is familiar to us – met our wildest photographic expectations and satisfied our bush cravings.

Setting out on our journey from Namibia, we crossed into Zambia at the Katima Mulilo border post, navigating a swift but bureaucratic process filled with levies, taxes, and heaps of paperwork. Arriving at the bustling town of Mongu at sunset, we were briefly led astray by our GPS. Inki was less than amused when I had to engage 4×4 low range to get us back on track. We finally reached our overnight stop on Lake Makapaela, about 20 km north of Mongu, in the dark and rain. Lake Makapaela was a charming find with its white sandy beaches. We left early the next morning, en route to Kafue, after navigating a route notorious for its potholes, which cover about a third of the route between Mongu and Hook Bridge on the Lusaka road.

Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park

Returning to Kafue’s Busanga Plains brought back fond memories of my time as a helicopter bush pilot here from 2009 to 2011. I was delighted to find many old friends still in the area. Enroute to Busanga Plains, we camped at Mapunga Campsite and Mozhi/Bongololo Campsite, where we were fortunate to encounter some well-known male lions and a leopard. The Kafwala Rapids were a sight to behold, and the forests, with their magnificent trees, were mesmerising.


Considering Busanga Plains for your next African safari? Check out our ready-made safaris to Busanga Plains here. Alternatively, see our other safaris here


Having had our fill of tsetse flies, we headed to Busanga Plains. Reuniting with old friends and exchanging stories made my day. The guides and lodge managers, among the best in the world, shared a wealth of knowledge that made our trip truly special. We were fortunate to see almost all the lions that roam the plains during our stay. The first rains and overcast skies made the temperature pleasantly cool, and the lack of tsetse flies on the plains (they stick to woodlands) was a welcome relief. Visiting familiar spots like Kapinga Island and various lodges in the area evoked many cherished memories.

Busanga Plains
Leopard near Mapunga Camp, satiating its thirst

We spotted numerous lions, some with colourful names like Yaya, Savannah, Killing Machine, Princess, Nala, Vegga, and the Shumba Boys, all affectionately named by the guides and management.

The plains appeared much drier and more accessible than in my earlier days there. Back then, the wetlands required helicopter transfers between lodges; now, these transfers can be easily done by road. The stunning landscape, teeming with predators, trees, water channels, and diverse wildlife and birds, possesses a unique character and rhythm. Words cannot capture the feeling of becoming part of the plains’ all-encompassing biorhythm.

Africa Geographic Travel

The lions enjoy a high prey density, often “wasting” by regularly abandoning their kills. This is a boon for the spotted hyenas, side-striped jackals, and vultures, including Cape Vulture, which are rare in the area.

Poaching and snaring were common back in 2009-2011, visible from the low-level flights I took over the park. However, since African Parks has taken over management of Kafue, the positive changes are evident.


DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? African Parks has been responsible for the management of Kafue National Park since 2022. Kafue became the 20th park in African Park’s portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent. Find out more and book your African Parks safari.


Kafue has the potential to become a prime destination and a haven for the highly threatened wildlife in this region.

We left the Busanga Plains reluctantly, taking the well-maintained Western Bypass Road, and were surprised by a group of twelve wild dogs in hunting mode—a parting gift from Kafue as we made our way to Liuwa Plain.

Busanga Plains
The lion Yaya’s sub-adult daughter contemplates murder on those pesky horseflies
Busanga Plains
The Lufupa Channel near Musanza
Busanga Plains
Lion Yaya’s son, George discovers that lechwe still taste better than car tyres
Busanga Plains
A hyena feeling peckish
Africa Geographic Travel
Busanga Plains
A lechwe kill by the lion known as Killing Machine’s pride
Busanga Plains
Busanga Plain’s future rulers
Busanga Plains
An older cub unleashes its fearsome power on the vultures of the plains
Africa Geographic Travel
African safari
Thanking mom for the meal
Busanga Plains
A puku sentinel is always a good idea when on the plains
African safari
An older cub being disciplined at the dinner table
Busanga Plains
A fitting send-off by Busanga Plain’s wild dogs just off the Western Bypass of Kafue

Further reading

  • Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue National Park here
  • Busanga Plains, Kafue, is brimming with wildlife, yet not overwhelmed by tourists. Read Irene Amiet’s travel diary from this Zambian safari spot. Read more about Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue here
  • This travel diary to Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park (Zambia) will have you contacting Africa Geographic to arrange your next safari. Read the travel diary here
  • Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Kafue NP. Read more about the Afrika Odyssey Expedition to Kafue here

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