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A visual journey of Ethiopia through the eyes of a photographer

by

Lex van Vught

Friday, 12 April 2019

Ethiopia is a fascinating country. Rapidly recovering since 1991 from the ravages of Marxism, and only relatively recently discovered by cultural and wildlife tourists, it is one of three countries in the world that has never been colonised.

It is the second-most populous country in Africa, after Nigeria, with 105 million people, comprising 80 ethnic groups, speaking 80 languages and a further 200 dialects. Their alphabet has 270 letters. And while on numbers, Ethiopia boasts 900 bird species, of which 55 are endemics or near-endemics.

An Ethiopian wolf in Ethiopia
An Ethiopian wolf – Africa’s most endangered carnivore and the world’s rarest canid © Lex van Vught

So here I was, in Ethiopia with Christian Boix from Africa Geographic, ready to embark on a 9-day bird, primate, and wolf-watching photographic safari through the rugged lands of this extraordinary country in the Horn of Africa.

I knew I was in for something special when I was shown three ‘lifers’ – Tacazze sunbird, baglafecht weaver, Swainson’s sparrow – in the scrawny hedge between the terminal building and car park on arrival at Addis Ababa.

This was shortly followed an hour later by six more ‘lifers’: the African thrush, Rüppell’s robin-chat, brown-rumped seedeater, streaky seedeater, white-collared pigeon, and the red-cheeked cordon-bleu, all spotted in the vacant lot next to our hotel.

Clockwise from left: 1) A priest on the road to Mulketeri and Debre Libanos, north of Addis Ababa © Christian Boix; 2) A priest holds open a page from a bible © Christian Boix; 3) The Debre Birhan Selassie Church in Gondar © Christian Boix; 4) A devout trio leaving the Debre Libanos monastery © Christian Boix
Africa Geographic Travel
Clockwise from top left: 1) A grivet, also known as African green monkey © Lex van Vught; 2) A boy swims the river at the Sof Omar caves © Christian Boix; 3) The view while driving along the Sanetti Plateau in Bale Mountains National Park © Christian Boix; 4) Camels are the most adapted species to the harsh conditions of arid rangelands of Ethiopia © Christian Boix; 5) “The locals were charming, humble and helpful” © Christian Boix

It was an early start the next morning as we set out north across the Sululta Plains. In my mind, I imagined I would see an arid, famine-ridden country, but instead, I was delighted to find us travelling through verdant fields, rolling hills, and found myself spell-bound as I gazed upon the stunning Jemmu escarpment.

The colourfully dressed people, villages and the many markets we encountered throughout the trip are a travel and street photographer’s dream. Although still a dismally poor country, there was little squalor and a pastoral life seems to sustain the typically large families adequately.

A girl with her younger sibling and friend smiles for the camera © Christian Boix
A girl with her younger sibling and friend smiles for the camera © Christian Boix

En route to Fiche – picking up amongst others wattled ibis, moorland chat, Botta’s wheatear, thick-billed raven, blue-winged goose, and the Abyssinian longclaw – we sat next to a large troupe of geladas (sometimes called the bleeding-heart monkey or the gelada “baboon”), the only grass-eating primate and the male of which is nothing short of spectacular!

Birding at the Debre Libanos Monastery and the Portuguese Bridge was brilliant! We saw white-cheeked turaco, Egyptian vulture, white-billed starling, fan-tailed raven, Rüppell’s black chat, Hemprich’s hornbill, Bruce’s green pigeon, Abyssinian slaty flycatcher and banded and double-toothed barbets.
Birding at the monastery in this devout country held further interest for the camera: large numbers of colourful pilgrims, roadside markets, ubiquitous donkey water-carriers and other beasts of burden.

Clockwise from top left: 1) A young girl outside her home in Awasa © Christian Boix; 2) Geladas are mostly grass-eaters and are the last surviving species of ancient grazing primates © Christian Boix; 3) An impressive Bale Mountain landscape with torch lilies (Kniphofia foliosa) © Lex van Vught; 4) “The colourfully dressed people, villages and the many markets we encountered throughout the trip are a travel and street photographer’s dream” © Lex van Vught; 5) Geladas are also known as bleeding-heart monkeys due to their bald chests which expose a distinctive heart-shaped red patch of skin © Christian Boix.
Clockwise from left: 1) Woman on their way to the market © Christian Boix; 2) Woman separating wheat grains by hand © Christian Boix; 3) Various religious items for sale alongside the road © Christian Boix

A charming feature throughout the trip was seeing and photographing Ethiopians going about their daily lives. We saw almost medieval methods of threshing teff, using oxen to trample, and wheat being separated by hand.

The roads were always bustling with livestock herds, shepherds, brightly-dressed women, and smiling urchins appearing out of nowhere in numbers.

A blue-winged goose © Lex van Vught
A blue-winged goose © Lex van Vught

The next day we ventured south and stayed at Lake Langano en route to the Bale Mountains National Park. Birding was excellent, and the list grew rapidly with the Abyssinian ground-hornbill, bare-faced go-away-bird, Rüppell’s starling, blue-breasted bee-eater, African citril, white-winged tit, and black-billed wood-hoopoe amongst others. A highlight was getting within metres of a flock of 200+ great white pelicans.

And so it continued… Magnificent scenery, continuous photo stops, lots of hopeful children and many more lifers on the scenic Sanetti Plateau: Rouget’s rail, spot-breasted lapwing, chestnut-naped spurfowl, Thekla’s lark, Ethiopian siskin and red-billed chough.

Clockwise from top left: 1) Abyssinian ground hornbill © Christian Boix; 2) Bruce’s green pigeon © Lex van Vught; 3) White-cheeked turaco © Lex van Vught; 4) Blue-breasted bee-eater © Oz Pfenninger; 5) Cape eagle-owl © Lex van Vught

On this 4,000-metre-high plateau, we were very fortunate to see the Ethiopian wolf, the globe’s most endangered canine, with a population of around 400. They feed exclusively on the abundant giant-mole and Blix’s grass rats.

The variety of fauna and flora at this altitude was incredible and the giant lobelia, which flowers once and then dies, was photographed from every angle. Returning to Bale the mammal list grew with Starke’s hare, Melenik’s reedbuck, mountain nyala, klipspringer, duiker, warthog and bushbuck – the last four all slightly different from their southern races.

A mountain nyala, also known as a balbok, spotted in Bale Mountains National Park © Christian Boix
A mountain nyala, also known as a balbok, spotted in Bale Mountains National Park © Christian Boix
Africa Geographic Travel
The Sof Omar Cave is the longest cave in Ethiopia at 15.1 kilometres long. Formed by the Weib River through erosion, these caves are of particular significance to Muslim pilgrims, as Sheikh Sof Ahmed was said to have taken refuge here during the 11th century. All photos © Christian Boix

A day excursion to the historic Sof Omar Caves and surrounds yielded amongst others: Brown-tailed rock-chat, bristle-crowned starling, slate-coloured boubou, rosy-patched bushshrike, crimson-rumped waxbill and white-bellied go-away-bird, as well as hamadryas baboons and camels.

Before I knew it, we were heading back to Addis Ababa, with stops at one of the famous rock-hewn churches, the Adadi Mariam, and a visit to the Tiya stelae field. Ethiopia is richly endowed with historical and cultural sites.

Clockwise from left: 1) Stairs to Adadi Mariam church © Vob08/Wikimedia Commons; 2) The Tiya stelae is among the most important of the roughly 160 archaeological sites discovered so far in the Soddo region, south of Addis Ababa. They are the remains of an ancient Ethiopian culture whose age has not yet been precisely determined © Christian Boix; 3) A curious Egyptian vulture © Christian Boix

We also stopped at Lake Awasa for the fish market and ate freshly prepared sushi right next to hundreds of marabou storks. Close to our hotel, we added to the list a beautiful sunbird, white-rumped babbler, northern grosbeak-canary and blue-headed coucal.

Clockwise from top left: 1) Colourful fruit and vegetables for sale alongside the road © Lex van Vught; 2) A woman walks along an old mountain path © Christian Boix; 3) A dead giant lobelia lies fallen in Bale Mountains National Park © Christian Boix; 4) The Tiya stelae site contains 36 monuments, including 32 carved stelae covered with symbols, most of which are challenging to decipher © Christian Boix; 5) Worshippers leaving the Debre Libanos monastery © Lex van Vught

The Ethiopian adventure ended with a stroll through the capital’s Merkato. The market is one of the largest in Africa and is a noisy, impenetrable mass of teeming people and products, and exotic odours. Exhausting, claustrophobic yet exhilarating – something not to be missed as our senses were assaulted.

The food on the trip was great, especially the wat (spicy stew) with the staple injera, siga tibs (spicy strips of meat) and the tere sega (steak tartare, sort of). The hotel accommodation, like the roads, was, how should I say, variable. The locals were charming, humble and helpful. We did feel very safe throughout.

Clockwise from top left: 1) An old man rests after prayers © Christian Boix; 2) & 3) The Addis Mercato is one of the largest in Africa, and is a noisy, impenetrable mass of teeming people and products, and exotic odours © Lex van Vught; 4) Prayers being held outside under the shade of a tree © Christian Boix; 5) These guys in Sululta were offering their sewing skills for quick fixes and took commissions as well © Christian Boix

His enthusiasm only exceeded Christian’s knowledge of the world’s birds, photography and many other topics and sciences. Bebete was our skilled driver, considerate, courteous and professional.

In total, we chalked up 260 bird species in five days – 80 lifers for me, and that was out of season by necessity. But, most memorably, I discovered Ethiopia. 

A stunning capture of Ethiopia's landscape with wheat fields © Christian Boix
A stunning capture of Ethiopia’s landscape with wheat fields © Christian Boix

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TRAVEL WITH AFRICA GEOGRAPHIC
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early / late and a few kilometres off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? Search for your ideal safari here, or contact an Africa Geographic safari consultant to plan your dream vacation.
Our Ethiopian safari: 
• Ethiopia, the cradle of humankind – 8 days
• Ethiopia’s Omo Tribes – 10 days

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, Lex van Vught


Lex van Vught is a retired businessman. He is a travel and wildlife enthusiast, avid birder, and bridge addict. He publishes an annual calendar based on his photography to raise funds for vulnerable children (see www.thecharitycalendar.org). His bucket list continues to grow….

ALSO IN THIS WEEK’S ISSUE

Galleries: Photographer of the Year 2019
View the latest photographs chosen for our Weekly Selection galleries as part of our Photographer of the Year 2019 competition.

VISIT THE GALLERIES HERE
Photographer of the Year 2019 Weekly Selection gallery 1Photographer of the Year 2019 Weekly Selection Gallery 2Photographer of the Year 2019 Weekly Selection Gallery 3