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Rare fish + wild dog drama + epic water safari
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
What started as a stressful discovery evolved into one of my best wild dog sightings ever.
Recently, I was in Botswana’s Okavango Delta with one of our Botswana safari experts, scouting for lodges that meet our expectations of outstanding, responsible safari experiences. On the game-drive transfer from the airstrip to our remote bushcamp, we stopped at an active wild dog den, to find, to our horror, that it had recently been under siege by lions trying to kill the pups. The den entrance was caved in, leaving a tiny gap, and the claw marks above the entrance bore testament to the lions’ huge efforts to get to the pups. That must have been terrifying for those pups!
We sat for a while and tried to figure out what had happened to the pups and adults. During our contemplations, we heard faint, plaintive whining from deep inside the burrow – evidence that at least one of the pups was still alive. But where were the adults? Had the alpha female been killed defending her pups, and where were the lions? So many questions. Not wanting to influence what was an ongoing natural event, we left the scene as the daylight faded and headed to our bushcamp to wait out the night before returning in the morning. It was a long night.
Soon after first light, after a scrumptious but hurried breakfast, we returned to the den to find that the entrance had been opened up, and a confusion of tiny footprints suggested that at least some of the pups had survived and been moved by the adults. These were tiny pups, still suckling, so they could not have gone far. And the threat of lions, leopards and hyenas was always there, as evidenced by the number of times we encountered them over the next few days as our guides, Dix and Chocolate, pieced together the puzzle.
They are local bushmen, born and brought up here, and they learned and honed their skills as subsistence hunters. Their tracking skills are off the charts, and their granular knowledge of the area is extraordinary. We followed many lines of spoor, investigated what we thought were ideal den locations and reacted to countless bush signals alerting us to nearby predators.
I can’t begin to describe the relief and euphoria when, after hearing a wild dog contact call, we also heard the squeals of tiny pups. We followed those clues to find the new den, secreted away in a termite mound hidden by tall grass. What followed was many hours immersed in wonderment and awe, observing these incredible predators care for their 12 precious bundles of joy.
We watched the alpha female feeding her ravenous brood, adults disciplining wandering pups, den excavations with sand flying everywhere, pack member greeting ceremonies as they returned from their wanderings and even a successful impala hunt by some of the pack as others remained to guard the den. A highlight for me was confirmation that wild dogs do use sneezing as a voting mechanism to get the resting pack to wake up and go hunting. If you have doubts, watch my video below for proof.
The impala hunt was a typical wild dog strategic manoeuvre, spreading out in a long line and padding silently through the woodlands before splitting into groups to target specific opportunities. We followed one splinter group, losing them a few times in the woodlands, before Dix and Chocolate cracked the code and got us to the scene just seconds after four dogs took down an impala. As usual for these efficient hunters, within seconds of the distress bleat at the moment of attack, the impala had been eviscerated, and the dogs were gulping down choice bits. Gory for sure, but this is real, wild Africa doing her thing. Again, we benefitted from deep bush skills demonstrated by our guides.
I have spent countless hours in the company of painted wolves, and these few days rank as amongst my best encounters ever. I will return.
Our choice of lodgings on this occasion was an intimate (4 tents | 8 guests) bushcamp on the shore of a permanent channel in the Okavango Delta. This camp is old-school; meaning the focus is on authenticity and comfort rather than ostentatious designer decor, rim-flow pools and imported chefs. Of course, there is room for all comfort levels in this wonderful industry, but on this occasion, less is more.
Speaking of returning, how about joining us in 2026 to this part of the Okavango Delta for a deeply immersive safari to search for wild dogs, leopards, lions and much more? Please book early to avoid disappointment – start the discussion.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
Click to listen to this editorial online
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Some moments in nature feel like a wink from the universe – little reminders that we share this planet with remarkable, unpredictable wildlife. Over the past 20 years, wild orcas have been documented offering humans food. Fish, stingrays, seaweed, even seabirds: all presented, sometimes repeatedly, as if waiting for us to take the bait. Are they trying to make friends, start a cross-species cultural exchange, or gently manipulate us into… something? No one’s sure. But one thing is clear: these intelligent, social giants are as curious about us as we are about them.
This week, we’re diving into more wonders: South Africa’s rare Barrydale redfin and why it matters for the health of our rivers, plus nine extraordinary African safaris – with water at their centre – that prove rivers and lakes are as thrilling as any game drive.
Enjoy exploring Africa with us!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
9 WATER SAFARIS
Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are her lifeblood. Here’s our list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent
FRESHWATER CANARIES
Rare South African fish like the Barrydale redfin warn of our rivers’ decline – saving them means saving our freshwater lifelines
Travel Desk
TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days – from US$10,670pps
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Best of Malawi’s safari parks – 10 days – from US$4,680pps
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. The three parks are managed by African Parks – a non-profit conservation organisation. These conservation success stories are what responsible travel is all about. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safaris ideas here.
Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests Jennifer and Tim from Switzerland went on a special mother-and-son safari to Zimbabwe and Botswana:
Unforgettable mother & son safari – How Africa Geographic & Stefan’s expert care guided us every step of the way:
“Our journey began long before we set foot in Africa – with a simple online enquiry through Africa Geographic. Within seconds, I was contacted by Karen, who warmly invited me to chat about our hopes, preferences, and expectations… The very next morning, I received an email from Stefan, who would become our dedicated travel consultant for what would turn out to be the trip of a lifetime.
From that first message onward, everything flowed seamlessly. Stefan was thorough, responsive, and incredibly attentive. He answered every single question I had, no matter how detailed or specific, and remained kind, patient, and professional, never rushing me or pushing for decisions. We worked closely to craft our ideal itinerary, and I never felt anything less than fully supported. Naturally, I was a bit nervous when it came time to make the first payment… But Stefan’s transparent communication and genuine care gave me confidence and peace of mind. Even after our booking was finalised, Stefan stayed in touch over the months leading up to the trip, checking in and helping us feel prepared. And once the journey began, he continued to communicate throughout our travels, making sure everything was unfolding as planned…
I wholeheartedly recommend Africa Geographic to anyone considering an African adventure – no matter where in the world you’re starting from…. This was more than a vacation, it was a transformative journey. And Stef, from the bottom of our hearts: thank you.”
Connect with us today, and let AG start planning your dream safari.
WATCH:
This short video offers a snapshot of Tsavo Trust’s work on the ground: protecting wildlife, supporting communities, and safeguarding Kenya’s iconic Tsavo ecosystem through aerial and ground operations, conservation partnerships, and sustainable development initiatives (06:11) Click here to watch
For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here
*Cover photo: Double trouble. A pair of wild dogs on the prowl. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Fabian Michelangeli. Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant
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