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What’s up with Kruger’s lions?
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Many moons ago, Lizz and I took a 3-month sabbatical to traverse Southern Africa in my trusted Landy Defender, the 31-year-old vehicle I still drive today.
We mixed it up during this soul-food odyssey, alternating between campsites and lodges. One leg of that journey that created a bookmark in my mind was finding our way from a remote bushcamp on the Mwaleshi River in Zambia’s North Luangwa National Park to Mfuwe, the entrance town for South Luangwa National Park.
This was before mobile phones and Google, so we navigated off paper maps, verbal advice and a rather dubious hand-drawn map by the lodge manager in North Luangwa, showing where to cross the Luangwa River. The Luangwa River crossing was particularly edgy because the exit point on the far bank was unclear, and I could not walk the route beforehand because of deep water and many hippos and flatdogs (crocs). But cross we did, with thumping hearts, a gurgling diesel engine and water sloshing around inside the Landy.
This epic journey was paused many times by herds of elephants blocking the way, drainage lines where the only way across was wobbly, makeshift bridges made of stacked mopane poles, and a few wrong turns where the bush tracks petered out. We finally made it to Mfuwe in the fading light, some 240km and 10 hours later, exhausted but elated. As the tiny town appeared through the dusty windshield, Shania Twain belted out ‘Looks like we made it’ (You’re still the one) on the cassette player. Some years later, that was the theme song for our wedding ceremony.
African journeys create memories that shape our lives.
Safari njema, good people.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Pygmy hippos are the ghosts of West Africa’s forests: rarely seen, mostly imagined, and slipping silently through dense rainforest under cover of night.
With fewer than 3,000 left, camera-trap sightings are rare, and in-person encounters almost unheard of. In fact, researchers who had studied them for 16 years had never seen a wild one in the flesh. So, when a recent expedition to Côte d’Ivoire not only encountered a mother and calf in Taï National Park, but filmed them for 30 uninterrupted minutes, it was a major step forward in understanding a species that has long eluded direct observation. More importantly, the sighting supports ongoing efforts using tracking collars and even dung-detecting dogs to better understand this elusive species. In conservation, moments like these turn guesswork into real understanding, and that’s where the most valuable work begins.
This week, our judges reveal their standout picks from Photographer of the Year Week 5, while new research in Kruger unpacks declining lion numbers and rising poaching pressure. We also explore the sustainable safari revolution, and why your travel choices can make or break Africa’s wild spaces.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
FAB PHOTOS
The top photos for Week 5 of Photographer of the Year 2026 are here, as chosen by our judges! Enter to win a chimp-trekking safari to Rwanda
KRUGER LIONS
New survey of Kruger lions reveals declining populations, poaching pressure, and habitat-driven density shifts in a key Southern African conservation stronghold
SUSTAINABLE SAFARIS
What makes for a responsible safari? Discover how the right kind of safari can protect wildlife and support local communities, with tangible conservation benefits
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 20-28 November 2026
Kenya’s Super Tuskers – 9 days
Journey to Kenya’s spectacular Tsavo and Amboseli in search of the great tusked elephants that define Africa’s vast open landscapes. Alongside meaningful time with these gentle giants, you will seek out Tsavo’s famous maneless lions, the extraordinary gerenuk, the hirola (the world’s rarest antelope) and a rich array of other wildlife. Witness hippos and crocodiles from a glass-fronted underwater chamber at a crystal-clear spring, enjoy the option to sponsor orphaned elephants, and stay alert for the elusive, rarely seen striped hyena. Time spent with tuskers is an investment in your soul.
Still dreaming of the ultimate African safari escape? Browse our safari ideas here. Or click here to plan your safari.
Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests and honeymooners Jill and Darryl from the USA went on a Rwandan expedition to Volcanoes National Park, spotting gorillas and golden monkeys along the way:
“We rate pre-trip and overall trip experience 10/10. All transport was smooth sailing, and we were thrilled to have Nelson as our guide the entire trip. He was amazing, so lovely, smart, and accommodating. Can’t speak highly enough about him. Our accommodation was lovely. Being in such close proximity to the beautiful gorillas was a dream come true.”
WATCH
From near collapse to one of Africa’s great conservation comeback stories, Akagera National Park is thriving again. On Rwanda’s eastern edge, lakes, papyrus swamps and open savannah now support the full Big 5, alongside one of Central Africa’s largest protected wetlands. Watch the story unfold and discover where to stay, from the serene Ruzizi Tented Lodge to the wild, unfenced Karenge Bush Camp. (06:46) Click here to watch
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