Upon arrival in Kenya, everyone was excited to see what this magnificent country had to offer.
We camped at the border town and began the “Meltdown Madness” section of the TdA tour the following day, which has been known to be the most challenging of the entire trip. The northern parts of Kenya is very rural. There’s nothing around for miles, it’s hot as hell and the roads are all purely hard corrugation and sharp lava rock edges which make riding extremely uncomfortable and unpleasant.
Leading up to this point, we had several meetings regarding Kenya, the elections and what TdA are going to do with us riders if things became politically unstable. It was decided that it would be safe to cycle the first few off-road days but then, closer to the Election Day, 4th March 2013, it was advised that we bus through the rural villages of the north. During the last elections there were a large amount of political demonstrations and riots that foreigners should not be caught in the middle of. We all agreed that with safety and security in mind, it was best to skip the isolated parts of Kenya and bus straight to Nanyuki and hide out there for four days until the hype of the Elections had calmed down. I suspect that everyone was secretly relieved and excited to skip the Meltdown Madness off-road section and have a bit of a break from the bike. However, we had been warned that the bus ride to Nanyuki would be long. It sure was. It took two days to reach our destination. It was hot, stuffy and probably the worst bus ride I’ve ever had. I actually began to think it would probably have been better on the bike, because bussing over bumpy corrugated road is very uncomfortable.
Before the bus experience started, we had one day of cycling off-road just to give us a taste of what we would be missing.
That one day’s cycle on hard corrugated off-roads was enough to made me very pleased I didn’t t have to cycle on them for six more days. It truly isn’t comfortable on one’s already exhausted body. Arriving at yet another bush camp, everyone was preparing for the next two days of bus travel; finding comfy clothes, a pillow to sleep on, a good book to read, iPod for music and, of course, lots of snacks to nibble on. Later that evening our 60 seated bus arrived as well as our armed security’s which would escort us safely all the way to Nanyuki.
As one might imagine, The TdA trucks were fully loaded. 60 bicycles now needed to be transported by vehicle, as well as all the TdA equipment for the 4 month trip, which usually takes up most of the storage space. But somehow and someway the talented and creative TdA crew managed to get it all packed away and ready for transportation.
That evening we arrived safely at our camp for the night, which was a nunnery in Marsabit. As we made our way through the town of Marsabit, we saw the first real presence of political demonstrations and rallies with masses of people wearing their supported political parties’ T-Shirts, dancing and singing. When two apposing party demonstrations met, one could tell things were on the verge of getting heated. I’m just happy I didn’t have to try to cycle through that chaos.
I didn’t see much of Marsabit. It was too intimidating to walk into town on the evening we arrived with all the rallies in full swing. The next morning, once again, we packed up early to get on with the second day on the bus which would bring us to our “hideout” destination, Nanyuki.
Arriving in Nanyuki was a great relief as everyone was excited to be off the bus and have a few days to do whatever they wanted. Up until this point, we’d had, at most, two rest days, which felt long. Four days definitely felt like a holiday. Many riders went on safari, others booked into nice hotels, and a few even braved climbing Mount Kenya, which I was very keen to do. However, in the end, I decided against it because I felt that I was finally beginning to feel stronger and healthy again.
Nanyuki, is known as Equator town because, well, the Equator runs through it… and there is a sign to prove it. We stayed at a very nice place called The Sportsman Arms Hotel which offered rooms, a swimming pool, restaurant, bar and a nice camp site. I thought if this was to be a mini holiday, then getting a room to relax, have a warm bath, do my laundry and charge all my electricals was well worthwhile. Nanyuki was the chosen hideout town because there is a British Military base in the area, so if anything were to go wrong, hopefully this would be a safe place to be, as a foreigner. However, during the rest days in Nanyuki there was little evidence of political unrest as everyone was very friendly and welcoming.
By the fourth rest day, everyone was ready and looking forward to getting back on the bike. I had had enough of sitting around eating for entertainment and looking for things to do to keep myself busy. I was ready to hit the road and see more of Kenya. Leaving Nanyuki, we crossed the Equator and I was very excited to be in the Southern Hemisphere. Something about it made me feel closer to home.
We had two days of cycling after Nanyuki to get to Nairobi where we would have yet another rest day. At this point I thought we might start getting lazy, seeing as we were off the bike more than on. But the day’s cycle out of Nanyuki scrapped this lazy idea very quickly as we covered a distance of 120km with heaps of climbing in humid, hot conditions.
Everyone had to work very hard and getting into camp that afternoon was a great relief. We stayed at a River Rafting camp site, right on the rivers edge, so a refreshing swim was a lovely end to what was a hot, humid day in the saddle.
After a massive feast, we rested up for the following days ride into Nairobi. I was terribly excited to get to Nairobi, because my father, Nick, and family friend, Rudolf, were due to arrive and visit for a couple of days as a moral support booster at the halfway mark of the Cairo to Cape Town cycle tour.
On the morning of our cycle into Nairobi, everyone was ready to go when TdA organizers called a meeting over breakfast to inform us that we won’t be able to cycle into the city, because it was the day the election results would be announced and the potential of protests, riots and various political demonstrations was at a high risk. We waited at the camp for two overland truck to come pick us all up and transport bicycles and TdA riders into the capital city, Nairobi, where I had my father waiting for me.
Once on the road, I became overwhelmed with the excitement of seeing my dad. It felt like I had ants in my pants because I couldn’t sit still. Upon arrival I could see Rudolf and my dad waiting in the shade of the bar. All the TdA riders knew of this reunion and so let me off the truck first so I could go ahead a greet my family I had been so excited about seeing for weeks.
After the expected emotional hello hugs and big smiles, it was immediately time for a cold beer to celebrate seeing my loved ones. Slowly but surely the table grew as TdA riders came over to meet my dad and joined us for a quick drink before the usual routine of setting up camp began. Luckily, it was no tent for me that evening as I set off to the hotel my father had booked.
That evening a large group of us went out for dinner at the famous Carnivore restaurant. It was a fabulous night filled with lots of delicious food, good wine and the very best company, which turned this into the perfect night for introducing my father and Rudolf to the TdA group.