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Africa Geographic
Wildlife . People . Travel
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The Ghosts of Rwanda

Rwanda is like an onion. Or a parfait. It has layers. Arriving in Kigali is like arriving in an African parallel-universe. In this universe everything is ordered. Everything is clean. The scooter drivers wear helmets. The military wear smiles. There are no goats. But beneath this welcomed veneer of the perfect African capital lies something […]

‘Eastern DRC is kak…’ said the mountain gorilla.

The mountain gorillas have known it for a while. Eastern DRC is kak. As their numbers dwindled to a few hundred – slaughtered for meat, ashtrays and funsies – they have taken refuge in the slightly safer regions of Rwanda and Uganda. Here, the volcanoes are inactive and the locals have less blood lust. Likewise […]

Danakil Desert: The Cruelest Place on Earth!

I have glimpsed the apocalypse. The overweight Magi, Al Gore foretold of it. And he has been vindicated. And forgiven for eating so many pies. Here, Gaia is in rebellion. All bets are off. The ground has sunk below that of the seas. Night time temperatures flirt with the mid-thirties, by day they bash down […]

Our Devolution in Africa

Ignorance was bliss. We have now seen ourselves through the eyes of others. And what we have seen is not pretty. Four months on the road with only each other as behaviour-moderators has left myself and Tough Guy in a pitiful state. This has only become apparent with the arrival of family and – gulp […]

Unlikely evangalism in Ghana

Driving through Kumasi’s industrial outskirts in Ghana, a behemoth billboard looms over the highway forcefully advertising the sale of ‘Turn the Other Cheek Glycophosphate’. Just beyond it lies ‘King of Hosts Funeral Catering Services’ and – invitingly for shoplifters – ‘Forgive and Forget Metallic Plumbing Products’. Goofy is the inappropriate mascot for ‘My Redeemer Lives […]

Sunburn: Casablanca to Joburg!

It’s quite difficult to reflect on everything that has happened up to now and summarise it in a paragraph. But I suppose one word comes to mind. Goat. The only constant over a journey that has spanned snowy mountains, sandy deserts, lazy rivers, open plains and paradise beaches has been the cunning, non-plussed face of […]